Just a heads-up about mousepads similar to GNs you can generally toss some soap (laundry soap) and rub it into the surface a little then toss them in the wash and you can get most anything out of them. Dot 4 and dot 5.1 are glycol based though as I recall dot5.1 has more ingredients glycol ethers, alkyl polyglycols, and polyglycol esters. You should be able to get those out of the GN mousepad with a wash or two without damaging the pad. The hardest thing to get out of a mouse pad so far for me has been KPX when I've accidentally got a bit on the pad during a XOC session.
Oh, and your bleeding method looks way better than the "pump it, hold" (open bleeder, close bleeder), "Pump it, hold" (open bleeder, close bleeder) for 30 minutes like I do on cars.
Man ever since Aliexpress started selling vacuum bleed kits (about 10 years ago) for around $15 I gave that away. The kit works on some notoriously hard to bleed motor bikes as well. Other benefit is they are single man operation.
Great to see enthusiasm for anything 2 wheels. I’ve ran V4’s on my bikes since Hope bought them out with the Tech 3 levers. Superb modulation and an good improvement on the Mono’s. perhaps would recommend the braided hoses though in this application as they would deal with the temp rise of the fluid better. Not to mention look way more trick.
The importance of a well tuned suspension and "comfortably" consistent brake is hard to convey with words. Feeling is king on 2 wheels. There is a reason that all track models of sports bikes get upgraded brakes and suspension.
Absolutely love the series, ive moved from street motorcycles to dirt bikes because fewer cars to hit, but looking at a off road electric to ride on some of the bike trails a full motorcycle would not be allowed.
Brake fluid not only messes up your skin, it can attack the paint on the bike too. Wonder why Surron's brakes were inconsistent, were they using substandard hose? I certainly have seen brake inconsistencies on cars when using a noname hose.
Was the brake feel inconsistent on heavy load from heat soak? Or just a weak master cylinder or poor calipers with sticky pistons? Different pad and disk compounds are often needed if heat soak is the issue. Most racing master cylinders have an adjustment wheel to fight lever creep when the system gets hot. As at some tracks in summer weather, it's unavoidable. Not related to consistency as much, but pads can change feel significantly. It can be worth it to find the compound that best suits you (progressive versus aggressive).
During these few weeks the weather is insanely HOT in Taiwan, definitely doesn't help the situation, The pads that were on the stock brakes were non-metallic and those are not great in high heat with heavy bikes from my experience once the rotors and pads have accumulated a ton of heat, so yah the brake compound was likely a factor. I just need brakes that can last being ridden extremely hard for about 1.5hrs straight in the extreme heat of the summer here. The hopes can do that with sintered pads, that's why I love them so much for so many years on all my ebikes even though they are a DH MTB brake technically and not for heavy bikes.
@AllAboutKingpin if the new system still leaves you wanting, maybe look for thicker disks if available. Swaping to a larger diameter disk can be a pain, but thicker disks are often a direct swap.
Cool stuff! Do the levers not have screw holes to attach the bleed kit to directly? It's the first time I've seen one where you need to swap out the cover.
Oone way to bleed if you don't have a syringe is doing it like that. I used to do that before when I bled them, but I could never get all the bubbles out so easily pumping the lever and opening and closing the bleed valve in unison to move the air out works, but less effective and it takes way longer. Syringe is the way. Once the system had 99% of the air out of it after closing off the bleed valve I pumped out the pistons with a few squeezes and THEN topped off the res last time before sealing up. This gave me a perfect bite on these rotors.
So you made the BIGGEST Mistake by using V4 calipers Without the V4 twin finned and vented rotors. They're made to work together. Without the thicker V4 rotors the pistons come out way too far and eventually your brakes Will get squishy. PLEASE for the love of whatever God you pray to Buy the V4 twin finned and vented rotors. Thank me later. 🤘🏻
@@mattkock already have them on all my other ebikes v4 rotors + v4 cals, i know they are thicker and these rotors are almost as thick, they are thicker like v4’s just not twin, but i didnt use them for a reason. I found that the carrier float rivets on the v4 rotors come loose way too quick on ebikes due to the heavier weight I imagine. So this time i decided to use these instead, maybe not forever but ill wait until i feel any sloppiness. So far its not bad at all.
Love watching someone who's super enthusiastic about a hobby talk/explain why a thing is cool when I know nothing about that thing
Watching passion is an amazing thing. Takes many forms but always cool to witness.
AWESOME VIDEO! That looks like so much fun.
Thank you! It is :)
Just a heads-up about mousepads similar to GNs you can generally toss some soap (laundry soap) and rub it into the surface a little then toss them in the wash and you can get most anything out of them. Dot 4 and dot 5.1 are glycol based though as I recall dot5.1 has more ingredients glycol ethers, alkyl polyglycols, and polyglycol esters. You should be able to get those out of the GN mousepad with a wash or two without damaging the pad. The hardest thing to get out of a mouse pad so far for me has been KPX when I've accidentally got a bit on the pad during a XOC session.
Nice as always
I like these kinds of videos
Keep up the good work Vince
Another awesome video. Great sound and image quality, keep 'em coming!
Oh, and your bleeding method looks way better than the "pump it, hold" (open bleeder, close bleeder), "Pump it, hold" (open bleeder, close bleeder) for 30 minutes like I do on cars.
Man ever since Aliexpress started selling vacuum bleed kits (about 10 years ago) for around $15 I gave that away. The kit works on some notoriously hard to bleed motor bikes as well. Other benefit is they are single man operation.
I really enjoyed this series. Keep them coming!
Great to see enthusiasm for anything 2 wheels. I’ve ran V4’s on my bikes since Hope bought them out with the Tech 3 levers. Superb modulation and an good improvement on the Mono’s. perhaps would recommend the braided hoses though in this application as they would deal with the temp rise of the fluid better. Not to mention look way more trick.
If you want something more surron oriented in power, the lewis brakes come in either a 6 or 8 piston caliper. Love these videos!
The king of overclocking PC’s and now the king of overclocking Surrons! Great work bro. Taiwan looks like a beautiful country ❤
I wish I could've seen you work on PC Components like that.
The importance of a well tuned suspension and "comfortably" consistent brake is hard to convey with words.
Feeling is king on 2 wheels. There is a reason that all track models of sports bikes get upgraded brakes and suspension.
Absolutely love the series, ive moved from street motorcycles to dirt bikes because fewer cars to hit, but looking at a off road electric to ride on some of the bike trails a full motorcycle would not be allowed.
Well that's a big upgrade. Hope has the best long term brake feel and pressure point IMO, and they look fantastic!!!
At this point I wonder what cost more the bike or the mods. haha. This thing is sick.
GN's new silicone mod mat is pretty awesome. I would highly recommend you looking at those.
Nice.
Brake fluid not only messes up your skin, it can attack the paint on the bike too. Wonder why Surron's brakes were inconsistent, were they using substandard hose? I certainly have seen brake inconsistencies on cars when using a noname hose.
Was the brake feel inconsistent on heavy load from heat soak? Or just a weak master cylinder or poor calipers with sticky pistons?
Different pad and disk compounds are often needed if heat soak is the issue. Most racing master cylinders have an adjustment wheel to fight lever creep when the system gets hot. As at some tracks in summer weather, it's unavoidable.
Not related to consistency as much, but pads can change feel significantly. It can be worth it to find the compound that best suits you (progressive versus aggressive).
During these few weeks the weather is insanely HOT in Taiwan, definitely doesn't help the situation, The pads that were on the stock brakes were non-metallic and those are not great in high heat with heavy bikes from my experience once the rotors and pads have accumulated a ton of heat, so yah the brake compound was likely a factor. I just need brakes that can last being ridden extremely hard for about 1.5hrs straight in the extreme heat of the summer here. The hopes can do that with sintered pads, that's why I love them so much for so many years on all my ebikes even though they are a DH MTB brake technically and not for heavy bikes.
@AllAboutKingpin if the new system still leaves you wanting, maybe look for thicker disks if available. Swaping to a larger diameter disk can be a pain, but thicker disks are often a direct swap.
Brake fluid wash away super easy with just water. (distilled water is even better)
Hope has 3d print files for bleed and maintinance blocks that makes life easy. Fyi.
Cool stuff! Do the levers not have screw holes to attach the bleed kit to directly? It's the first time I've seen one where you need to swap out the cover.
What is the best option to keep brake light sensor ?
lol you are the GOAT
The ending! 🤣
I'm sure tech jesus will send another mouse mat.
Can one order only the frame and motor from Surron? The rest is replaced anyway.
It is possible to get frame only kit online.
Do you not compress and depress the hand brake whilst bleeding like you would on a car?
Oone way to bleed if you don't have a syringe is doing it like that. I used to do that before when I bled them, but I could never get all the bubbles out so easily pumping the lever and opening and closing the bleed valve in unison to move the air out works, but less effective and it takes way longer. Syringe is the way. Once the system had 99% of the air out of it after closing off the bleed valve I pumped out the pistons with a few squeezes and THEN topped off the res last time before sealing up. This gave me a perfect bite on these rotors.
Wearing gloves for real is necessary. Brake fluid is so nasty🙈😅
Love your channel btw👌
Cheers from Switzerland
So you made the BIGGEST Mistake by using V4 calipers Without the V4 twin finned and vented rotors. They're made to work together. Without the thicker V4 rotors the pistons come out way too far and eventually your brakes Will get squishy. PLEASE for the love of whatever God you pray to Buy the V4 twin finned and vented rotors. Thank me later. 🤘🏻
@@mattkock already have them on all my other ebikes v4 rotors + v4 cals, i know they are thicker and these rotors are almost as thick, they are thicker like v4’s just not twin, but i didnt use them for a reason. I found that the carrier float rivets on the v4 rotors come loose way too quick on ebikes due to the heavier weight I imagine. So this time i decided to use these instead, maybe not forever but ill wait until i feel any sloppiness. So far its not bad at all.