Two thoughts. 1). Im going to tape up all areas that might get scratched before pulling and rotating that tricky panel. The piano black is very delicate. 2). I would tap into the rear turn signals before dealing with alll those extra wires and crap from the fender. Adding multiple connection points on a moving part is just a bad idea. With the bike stripped down that far, how much harder would it be to remove the seats and use the rear, none moving wires as places to tap into. Much cleaner looking as well. Shimming for aiming is crazy. That reason alone is why the stock lamp is better. I'm jiust going to toss some bigh quality LEDs in it and call it a day. This video was very helpful in how to access the lamps. Thanks.
Agreed on the black - that paint scratches if you look at it too hard. I will say that the overall aesthetic of the LED lights is much more modern than the stock - the high beams are epic.. but the low beams leave a little to be desired. I have directional driving lights for her to compensate for the hard cut at the top of the low beam pattern that I haven’t had time to install
The kit should include some - I used three nylon spacers that are about 1/8 thick - so roughly 3/8 inch of space was added to the bottom. I still don't love the cut off on the throw distance and will be adding some LED driving lights to push the beam out further. The brightness and side/side is amazing - and the high beams are great.. just wish the low beams had a slightly less severe cut off
@@AskDIYDad installed mine today. Amazing change from the factory headlights. The spacers are really needed in order have the headlights from only covering a short distance ahead.
@@thrushpark77 100% agreed - I bought their dynamic driving lights (the ones that mount to the inside of the wheels) to give it a bit more throw - hope to install those this weekend (video to follow of course)
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Thanks. I've had mine for two months. ;-)
Two thoughts. 1). Im going to tape up all areas that might get scratched before pulling and rotating that tricky panel. The piano black is very delicate. 2). I would tap into the rear turn signals before dealing with alll those extra wires and crap from the fender. Adding multiple connection points on a moving part is just a bad idea. With the bike stripped down that far, how much harder would it be to remove the seats and use the rear, none moving wires as places to tap into. Much cleaner looking as well.
Shimming for aiming is crazy. That reason alone is why the stock lamp is better. I'm jiust going to toss some bigh quality LEDs in it and call it a day. This video was very helpful in how to access the lamps. Thanks.
Agreed on the black - that paint scratches if you look at it too hard.
I will say that the overall aesthetic of the LED lights is much more modern than the stock - the high beams are epic.. but the low beams leave a little to be desired.
I have directional driving lights for her to compensate for the hard cut at the top of the low beam pattern that I haven’t had time to install
I’m installing mine this Thursday. What size spacers did you use?
The kit should include some - I used three nylon spacers that are about 1/8 thick - so roughly 3/8 inch of space was added to the bottom. I still don't love the cut off on the throw distance and will be adding some LED driving lights to push the beam out further.
The brightness and side/side is amazing - and the high beams are great.. just wish the low beams had a slightly less severe cut off
@@AskDIYDad installed mine today. Amazing change from the factory headlights. The spacers are really needed in order have the headlights from only covering a short distance ahead.
@@thrushpark77 100% agreed - I bought their dynamic driving lights (the ones that mount to the inside of the wheels) to give it a bit more throw - hope to install those this weekend (video to follow of course)
@@thrushpark77 I did a comparison of stock vs LED with the shims on my channel as well
@@AskDIYDad We found some long screws so we were able to add another 1/8 to the shims.