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Bank one on the v6 is the one closest to the firewall. Sensor B is the exhaust side of that bank and should be the one closest to the firewall in that bank But honestly I’d replace both bank 1 sensors while you’re there

@ thank you. Would you recommend also replacing both VVT solenoids even though there are no fault codes?

@ personally yes, that’s what I did.. they’re not very expensive and you’ve already done most of the work. I have a video on my channel showing the process

Limit switches are normally closed and fail open to break the circuit. So you should be able to do a resistance test with a multimeter - I believe a functioning switch in the closed position should show a reading of less than 0.1 Ohm

@@AskDIYDad Thanks !!

My truck is in the shop at the moment so I can’t look, but I think I remember seeing it by the thermostat housing

Excellent! I’m so glad it helped!

It’s okay. I still love you

Awesome! I’m so glad it helped!

I would be very careful about the compatibility of that - the thermostat and housing is all one welded piece on the 2500 and there’s an electronic component. I personally would have a hard time trusting that price point..

@ yeah I just bought the whole thing. It’s -15 here in Ohio and I have no heat. Gonna bare the elements today and get it changed. Thank you

@ best of luck! If you have access to a heated garage I’d recommend it!

Us too! Happy that it helped!

Excellent!! Glad that it worked for you!! (That’s literally the only reason I do these)

Very cool! Email me at askdiydad @ gmail - always up for a chat with another owner!

@AskDIYDad Same here. I need to connect to more delorean owners as well. It's really helped me out alot.

If the 12v battery of the car is dead, then there is no power to the security system and the alarm will not go off.

The angle is rough, air box or not. In my case it didn't look like it would give much better access than what I showed in the video. As to the coolant, I don't have the bottle anymore but it was rated for my truck and Prestone brand I believe.

Infotainment.com has them but they’ve gotten really expensive. eBay will sometimes surface kits - you need to make sure you find one that includes the upgraded usb hub as well

It should as long as your car has the 8.4” screen. Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge/Ram all use the same parts The problem is cost. Post Covid this upgrade is really expensive. A standalone CarPlay/Android Auto screen is about 1/10 the cost.. but you have another screen to mount and contend with

I appreciate the feedback! That video was some number of years ago and my style has changed a bit since then. I’ll keep your comments in mind on future projects!

I’m so glad it was helpful to you!! I LOVE the lights on my house.. added eave lights from Lumary this year (check my other videos) The strips accent the rooflines and the eave lights wash the house. Two different controllers with different software but I think I can hack the eave lights into WLED - that’ll be a project for the spring when it’s warmer

Awesome! Glad it was helpful!

I’m my own photographer and that tool required two hands (was the only one home at the time 🙃)

I believe it’s 226203RB amzn.to/4iNWWDX

I'm not sure why it occasionally crackled on that video - something with the upload maybe?

I didn’t have that experience but it sounds like your new thermostat isn’t opening. It’s normal for air to bubble into the reservoir but the level should then go down, not up as the thermostat opens and pulls the coolant in. Check the electrical connection of that little plug that goes into the thermostat first - make sure it’s seated correctly as that can affect the thermostat operation

Thank you for the feedback! I’m glad it was helpful!

I’m not sure if that’s a compliment or not.. hah

Haha tuff means really good

The dongle enables wireless CarPlay if you already have wired. Pre 2018 the radio wasn’t equipped with CarPlay/Android auto - wired or wireless.

But if you are good with a second screen there are a bunch of standalone options available for around $50-$100

Hah - I get it. Since swapping that sensor mine has run trouble free.. but they seem to be subject to build quality issues

It’s called “Glitter” - using a 2-color red and green pallet with white glitter effect

@ thank you

Yeah.. it takes a little getting used to but it’s effective once you have it set

We’ve had them for several years and they’ve been solid - heavy snow, sleet, massive cold.. they truck along. I haven’t them connected to a Bluetooth outlet so I can turn them on and off from my phone or Alexa or whatever

I’ll put together a video but they look great. I haven’t had to do any maintenance to the original install aside from a controller upgrade (voluntary) and one wire end that was strained at the base of may garage door that had to be re-terminated

I tried tightening the clamp before I replaced it and for me, at least, that didn’t solve it. I think they wear out from vibration, heat and use and either deform internally or fail in some other way. Once I replaced that clamp the problem went away and never returned (for me at least)

Agreed! Glad you got it sorted out

Took apart and cleaned out that float valve that causes the design flaw.

That’s my hope.. did you have to run a separate controller and splice into the data cable? Or was WLED able to connect to them a different way?

@AskDIYDad Rob at The Hook Up did a test of a few of these before Lumary hit the market to see which would work with WLED controllers and which wouldn't. The govee lights do, the govee pro don't oddly. The eufy ones did, so I just chopped off the eufy controller and reused their power supply. It's working great honestly. I'm using dig uno to control mine, as my roofline is fairly simplistic.

@@bobgodd Intriguing. The Lumary lights run an odd voltage, but if I let the stock power supply provide the voltage and just hijack the data line it might work. I have a spare ESP8266 laying around here somewhere - I'll have to give it a shot.

@@AskDIYDad that's basically what I did. The eufy lights are 36v, so I used the included power supply and just sent data through WLED. The built-in effects weren't that bad actually, I just wanted more control over the lights. Syncing them with other WLED controllers, having them come on at sunset year round were big for me. I use the warm white lights daily when not in a holiday season.

Excellent! Agreed it’s super annoying when this happens. Took me a long time to find the right solution - depending on use it lasts about 6-12mo and then you have to clean out again. If you can keep the area around the lint trap clean to prevent as much blow by as possible you can extend that longer

The digquad shows them as one giant string, sequencing from channel 1 to 2 and so on. To control them independently you create segments in the WLED app. My Quad has 5 segments defined. One per door, one per peak and then the roofline

Fair point 🤣