Hello again, I just got my bike back from the dealership. Throttle body Sync WORKED!!!! Couldn't wait for the Carbtune to arrive from UK so I sucked it up and paid $160 to have them Professionally sync'd first. The most noticeable difference right off the bat is when I start the bike it starts really strong with a strong idle. Now when I come up to lights and clutch, the RPM's come down since and easy with a smooth idle. It's WONDERFUL!! Thanks to all who commented here!
Well there you go. Fixed!!! I did this adjustment on my 2007 R6 and it displayed exactly the same symptoms. It has brought the idle up to around 1200 - 1300 rpms, but that makes no difference. Cheers mate, Ill pass on the good word.
Dude......This totally worked for me!!! Mine were already turned 180* out, so I went 270* out. Hasn’t stalled once since. I might try 360* when I gear down and use the clutch at low rpm it idles like a car that has a wicked cam shaft. You know that old school lobe when idling!!! LOL
I had heard of this problem with many of the R1's; however, it never happened with my 2005 R1 model, which I owned for about 5 years. Today I took my 2008 R1 (with only 1200 miles on it) for a spin around town and it completely turned off on me for no reason. I'm glad it happened on a quiet street 2 blocks from my house and not on the crowded expressway. I don't want to get rid of my R1, so I'll have to try this. Thanks for posting.
Testing extensively while standing, it starts up well, every time when hot. I first tried the 1/2 turn back open, then opened another 1/4 turn. It's opened up 3/4 now (each). It does not bring up idle a lot, neither cold nor hot. Before it was fighting to stay on, usually failing 2-3 times when hot, idling 600 to 800 rpm. But it starts now with more punch and idles at 1.000 rpm, going up to 1.200 rpm. It takes throttle right away now at 1.000 rpm, without stalling anymore. so far: thanks!
Just like to say thank you removed the fuel tank yesterday noticed 2 of the 4 screw were almost completely closed adjust like you said went for a ride and bike never stall once this problem has been on and off for 10 years shame on yamaha
Tip #1. Adjust your Co mode (next to DIAG) mode on your C1: raise up by +3 , if all good. Fine. Increase also +3 on C2, C3, C4. Co=Carbon Monoxide gas exhaust air/fuel ratio adjustment
I just did this on my 2006 YZF R6 50th Anniversary Edition and it worked. Thank you very much, as I was getting frustrated and was thinking about buying another bike. Update: This tweek isn't working consistently for me. Bike still stalls maybe 1 out of 5 stops. It appears I may have to make another slight adjustment.
@@rideordie2736 Yep! Never got it working 100%. I never even went back for a second adjustment. I am not convinced the problem lies with just the adjustment, especially since I have never touched it since owning the bike. I feel the problem is much deeper and could potentially has something to do with the bike not getting enough fuel. I may take it to the track next week and ask some guys to fondle with it.
My 07 R1 with 16k on it just started this stalling BS a few weeks ago. Done it twice so far as I come up to a light in low RPM. I'm gonna try this, thanks.
These screws control the idle air/fuel mix ratio. I believe they are lean from the factory causing the stalling. Once you ricken them up then they run fine.
You are correct. I never got them balanced and have not had my bike stall since I did this adjustment. I understand it is not scientific and I didn't use a dyno, however I don't think they adjust them at all from the factory.
This is only a band-aid. The problem is related to 3 yes 3 different parts. 1) throttle bodies- the throttle bodies MUST be balanced and NOT the way the manual says. 2) Primary TPS MUST be adjusted to the indicated 16, not 17 not 15, 16. 3) The SECONDARY TPS must be adjusted to 17. If there is still an idle/stalling issue then valves should be checked, generator/stator bearings REPLACED (20 bucks at a bearing house) and the throttle bodies stripped and cleaned. 20 yrs as a mechanic, not a tech
It worked on my bikes 07 /R1 & 07/R6 Fitted vacuum gauges afterward & it was close to perfect Just did tiny bit of fine tuning None of the 4 adjusting skrews is more 3/4 turns out Worked 4 me
I have an 08 R1 akrapovik y pipe pcV toce exhaust the whole nine and I have had this problem for a few months and it drives me crazy. Im going to try and do this fix today and see the results hope to keep you guys updated with real time information.
i had d same prob. i went to my local mechanic, he changed d spark plugs. and sprayed the 4 throttles body with carb cleaner while the bike is running. now so far everything run normal
Just like to say thank you very much. not try it yet .sad thing is yamaha in New Zealand and around the world will not fix this problem it has been a problem for many years every time I take my bike for a service and tell the technician about the bike staling thay have never heard of it thanks again
Even the chip controlled intake causes funky idle. This bike needs a lot of small tweeks to get things right. Once you do the tweeks and understand that ANY modification means a check of all systems again, you will find that the bike will perform better than when you bought it. I used to be part of the forum where you got this info. I was banned for placing this info there.......need I say more?
I can't see why this is a problem by sharing a troubleshoot fix to a forum because that's what forums are for sometimes a service manual doesn't explain every repair or troubleshoot fully😮
I had same exact Issue on my R1 2011 My problem is that there was a lot of water and rust in the fuel tank. which blocked the top most fuel injector that are in the manifold. Also the fuel pump was clogged by dirt. THE FIX I bought a new Fuel Pump and replaced with my old one which was working fine but It had no "right" pressure to push fuel to all the injectors. I tested one by one the injectors to see which one is not injecting fuel out. I notice the all 4 were clogged. I went to a gas station where they repair the car/track fuel injectors using regulated pressure and it worked. Also I checked my spark plugs they were fine, also I cleaned the fuel tank. After putting everything back the bike run fine... I was so happy Point to note never let your bike run out of gas...since it will use the bottom gas which is usually at most cases dirty . In my case Big A** head forgot to check on the fuel level and i ended up drying out the tank. Also I checked on the corroded terminals in fuel pump and the two connectors below the fuel tank . That was the case with my bike.
i had my 2008 r1 for two years now and has 6500 miles on it. never have or had any problem. you made it sounds that all r1 it's a problamatic bike. it is not or per say a lemon.... it is all about adjustment.
Change the plugs when the bike is cold, the metal becomes very soft when it heats up so you are more likely to crossthread the new plugs when you install them. There is a lot of wiring and heat shields in the way. Just take your time and take pictures so you know where everything goes.
If its an intermittent problem, check if your IGNITION COIL(S) are out of spec with an Ohm meter. Replace them (this sorted out my problem). If your throttle bodies are causing the problem sync them properly... OEM IGNITION COIL(S) about $80 each, avoid the cheap brands...
Have you had any problems since you made this change on your bike? I have a 2008 R1 and it's doing that same exact thing. I just would like to know if you or anyone whos done that change on thier bike from your suggestion have had any problems since. Thanks for the info.
Mr SparksGarage, did you see my post about no start on my 08 R1? Just hear a click like on a car with dead battery. Could it be starter relay? Have disconnected side stand and clutch switches. Have new battery, seems like an interlock switch or relay not letting power get to starter
gracias me sirvio muchisimo ahora con el motor caliente arranca mejor le deje vuelta y media osea 3 cuartos de vuelta tenia antes un cuarto y fallaba en caliente al encenderla ahora es un toque al boton y arranca
Hola disculpa como puedo subir las revoluciones de mi moto es r1 2007, es como muestra el video? Es que están muy bajas y se me apaga la moto en ocaciones. Gracias.
@shawnspector Well. Read the other comments and that should answer your question! :) Fix worked great for me.... Haven't had a stall since I did it over 1500 miles ago....
I'm going to try this on my 2008 R1 now. I also notice that I have the 4 screws in different positions right now, but I assume it doesn't really matter. When they are closed they will be closed regardless the position. Then I just open each 1/2 turn. Right? Second question, did you ever balance the throttle bodies afterwards? You mention in the video that you might do. Thanks in advance.
Hi mate, I've just picked up a 2007 R6, and I have exactly the same problems. The bike was sold to me knowing that it had a problem, and I got it cheap because he was getting a bit pissed about the recurring problem. Once the clutch is engaged and the throttle released, the bike just starts to die out. I have to go through the gears quickly to try and use them to slow the bike and am more heavily reliant on the brakes rather than the gearing. I was gonna do the TPS, but at $350 Ill wait. n c.
@cybercorfu Throttle bodies were sync'd multiple times by the dealer. Its not the stand switch. Ive tried everything except getting a new bike. This has been discussed on many forums and has been beat to death. This is the only fix ive found. 3,000 miles later it still runs and works fine.
It is a system. One thing leads to another. A mis-aligned TPS will cause the idle to "pulse", a bad O2 sensor will cause fuel issues, tight valves will cause stalling and hard starting, bad generator bearings cause drag on the starter gear, un synced throttle bodies cause idle "pulse", I can go on and on. Difference is, I worked for Yamaha when this was going on, this "fix" is a solution AFTER the rest of the systems have been checked and cleared.
@solidr1 Go to that forum that I linked. The post on this problem goes on forever. It is an extremely common problem. Just like the 99-02 transmission probs on the R6.
Aren't those screws used to synchronize the throttle bodies? Shouldn't you at least synchronize them after you base set them at 1/2 turn out from all the way in?
I’ve done research and people also say it’s the valve adjustment issue, my bike stalls while riding when I down shift or pull the clutch in, I have a 2007 r6
Shawn Mills the fix i found was when you start the bike, keep holding in the starter button 3 seconds after the bike starts. It has something to do with loop in the computer. Let me know if it works with yours.
I will let you know! I will try tomorrow! Its starting to drive me crazy though. Cause I start it hold for a few secs at low rpm and then after about 30 secs it stay on and runs. I can drive normally. Like nothing. Then if I get to a store or somewhere where It stays off for more than a few mins I struggle to turn it on again! Only when it freshly starts after awhile regardless if its cold or not.
+Shawn Mills same thing as mine. Cold start, bike starts right up, bike is warm, it takes several cranks, idles, then does. So on a warm start, push start button without letting go even after bike starts, and count to 3.
I tried this and it did not help. My 2007 has been rough idleing from 1-1.3k. Stall at lights when pull in clutch. Also put in new battery, 17k miles. Termigoni exhaust. Any tips? Seems a lot of people have this issue but almost no definitive fixes
I mean i went out for an hr after this and didnt stall clutched in all stops so seems to work only other thing i could think of is mayb having to do a sync and really get it dialed in but if that doesnt help you need a valve adjustment.
Question: are u guys stalling due to low idle? I'm at 14k (07) and I'm having this problem basically a cold start. Replaced plugs, filter, battery and charging system good. Wondering if I should give this a shot
John Youssef I just did this fix about 30 min. ago after having this problem for a while and I have to say so far so good the bike seems to idle a little smoother and I was purposely trying to make it stall out coming to lights but it hasn't yet!
Jordan Widdiss Funny you mention this. Here we are 2 months later; it turns out the reason my bike kept stalling was because somehow the the position sensor got unplugged. How this happened? I haven't the slightest clue! Anyways- thank you for the response; i appreciate it!
John Youssef the TPS sensor got unplugged? Where exactly is it located to check on mine? And did this not cause a code for the check engine light to come on for you??
Valves, book says 26,000 mile to first check......do a CHECK every 10k. TPS.....if the cable TPS is off the computer gets a negative position indication when the throttle closes which makes the computer cut fuel and ignition as the bike is supposed to be "off" at that point. The TPS for the plates must be exact to control bypass air to keep the idle stable at quick close. This was done with a IAC valve in Suzuki or a SDTV. Yamaha uses the TPS and single throttle plates.
@jlsparky7 I understand you. The only thing I was saying that this is the right way to synchronize them. I had the same issue with my bike but the problem was not the synchronization it was the power commander. The dealer who set up the bike on his dyno was giving way too much fuel to the low rpm range. It was cutting out every time I came to the stop. Also had a terrible idle. I did everything and when I hooked up my laptop I saw the mistake the dealer did.
I'm just trying to help out. Seems to me you're on an ego trip. Like I mentioned, a lot of people have tried the fixes you listed and had no luck with them. It is a process of elimination just like anything else. I don't care how much you make or what names you can drop.
Ok well nobody has mentioned what I've encountered so I'll share and hope it helps. 2007 r1. First off eventually your stator magneto will go bad. They have an updated part number which is a different part and is around $500 which clearly tells me they became aware of the problem but did no recall. Went from wood barrel style to half moon style magnets. Ur magneto powers ur bike if the magnets begin to loosen and break your gonna experience power cut outs and bits of broken magnet in ur block (drain it out) but by that time ur battery is giving out cuz its now powering the bike however that's not the only issue. Once u change the magneto ur gonna get codes here and there. Its gonna say kickstand switch but its not the issue. If u dont believd me turn on the bike get it rolling on the bike stand and click it into first with the kickstand down. If it stalls the switch is fine don't bypass it. Ur also gonna have ppl telling u its the clutch sensor but if ur neutral light is on then ur clutch switch is fine. The issue i found to be in the unnecessary circut made to kill the main switch wired to the kickstand and clutch switch. Per the wiring diagram theres a red plug on the clutch lever side under the main fairing ziptied to the main harness. One wire is blue/yellow and the other is blue/black. That plug goes to the main switch and with handlebar rocking movement the wire breaks like when u bend a wire till it breaks causing a broken circuit immediately killing the bike but wiggle the handlebars a bit and it'll come back. So basicallt its a broken wire. Its a pain in the ass to replace the ignition cuz the bolts holding it in are like rivets they don't come out so what i did was bypass the unnecessary line by simply unplugging the red plug and jumping the one end with a paper clip closing the circuit and taped it. The male connector that goes to the ignition just sits there and it's fine. I've never had an issue thus far and ive never had to do this throttle sync thing in this video. They're just minor design flaws but can be super dangerous while riding. If this helps you im glad and Ur welcome also tell yamaha they assholes for not doing the recall on the magneto. Also try to gap ur spark plugs pretty well, i notice better idle/throttle response with properly gapped plugs.
As far as the other issues, The EXUP COULD cause an issue but a stalling has not been reported. Best thing is to remove the valve,NOT the motor unless you have the bypass chip. the EXUP does nothing anyway. Generator bearing go bad quick and can cause the shaft to stick which burns the rotor or the stator or both.
So I just had my 07 R1 ecu flashed. I let the bike warm up to 196 degrees, revved to about 10k and when the rpms came down the bike stalled. Now it wont start. Might this fix it?
That is all I did, now I wish I had not. I have watched your other vids and you are almost spot on to what the "greats" do, this is the only one I added any info to because of the seriousness of the problem. Again, sorry to have even logged on, I was looking for others with stator bearing failure to gain some more insight as to failure rate and how ( street riding, track, etc). I just happened to see yours. Again, Sorry for trying to help.
@jlsparky7 I'm just a little nervous. I'm not a mechanic but I'm a pretty descent engineer. I would feel more secure about the procedure if you would have specifically shown Each of the four screws in the video so I know I'm messing with the right stuff. But I'm wondering if I show my dealer mechanic this video, if he will do this for me.
YES!!! Lol i have the same bike w/issue dealer couldnt figure it out just did this and rode for an hour all clutch in stops and not one stall make sure after you let the bike warm up a little
hello sir :) i have yamaha r1 2005 and one day it is just wont start up for no reason it is look good i check every thing but :( let me know if u have solution for that pleaes
Any ideas on another R1 problem i have? Sometimes it just clicks when you try to start, like an interlock clutch or side stand switch defective. Battery is new. Starter relay maybe?
Could be a starter relay, otherwise could be your starter on the way out, start with the relay because it's cheaper and easier to fix and if that doesn't do it start looking at the starter, if you tap on the starter while it's doing that and it starts the bike, usually it's a good indication it's the starter
Hey mate, just a question. My bike, cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I deccelerate. Do you have any idea what the issue might be? Thanks
I just did this to my bike today and the issue has been fixed, thanks!
Glad the problem is fixed brother! Make sure to pass on the vid!
Hello again, I just got my bike back from the dealership. Throttle body Sync WORKED!!!! Couldn't wait for the Carbtune to arrive from UK so I sucked it up and paid $160 to have them Professionally sync'd first. The most noticeable difference right off the bat is when I start the bike it starts really strong with a strong idle. Now when I come up to lights and clutch, the RPM's come down since and easy with a smooth idle. It's WONDERFUL!! Thanks to all who commented here!
It's worked for almost everyone so far. Hope it does for you too. I appreciate you posting back.
Well there you go. Fixed!!! I did this adjustment on my 2007 R6 and it displayed exactly the same symptoms. It has brought the idle up to around 1200 - 1300 rpms, but that makes no difference. Cheers mate, Ill pass on the good word.
Not sure I'll get a response after 7yrs but need help. I'm trying to locate the screws in the 207 r6.
Dude......This totally worked for me!!! Mine were already turned 180* out, so I went 270* out. Hasn’t stalled once since. I might try 360* when I gear down and use the clutch at low rpm it idles like a car that has a wicked cam shaft. You know that old school lobe when idling!!! LOL
@jacqr1 I did a ton of research as well and this was the only fix I could come up with. Thanks a ton for commenting, glad the fix helped. :)
Just did this fix this morning. As far as i can tell,at the moment, it doesn't stall any more.
Did you fix it like the video say?
Ok mines idile 1 and below and coursing knocking WGEN Rev it's fine do I need to do this
thanks alot for uploading this man!! this fix worked for me done it 2 weeks ago and my 08 r1 hasn't stalled once. thanks again
glad it helped :) Worked for me too.
I had heard of this problem with many of the R1's; however, it never happened with my 2005 R1 model, which I owned for about 5 years. Today I took my 2008 R1 (with only 1200 miles on it) for a spin around town and it completely turned off on me for no reason. I'm glad it happened on a quiet street 2 blocks from my house and not on the crowded expressway. I don't want to get rid of my R1, so I'll have to try this. Thanks for posting.
Testing extensively while standing, it starts up well, every time when hot. I first tried the 1/2 turn back open, then opened another 1/4 turn. It's opened up 3/4 now (each). It does not bring up idle a lot, neither cold nor hot. Before it was fighting to stay on, usually failing 2-3 times when hot, idling 600 to 800 rpm. But it starts now with more punch and idles at 1.000 rpm, going up to 1.200 rpm. It takes throttle right away now at 1.000 rpm, without stalling anymore. so far: thanks!
Have you had any problem yet
Just like to say thank you removed the fuel tank yesterday noticed 2 of the 4 screw were almost completely closed adjust like you said went for a ride and bike never stall once this problem has been on and off for 10 years shame on yamaha
Glad it helped! 👍🏻👍🏻
Tip #1. Adjust your Co mode (next to DIAG) mode on your C1: raise up by +3 , if all good. Fine. Increase also +3 on C2, C3, C4. Co=Carbon Monoxide gas exhaust air/fuel ratio adjustment
How do you do that
I just did this on my 2006 YZF R6 50th Anniversary Edition and it worked. Thank you very much, as I was getting frustrated and was thinking about buying another bike.
Update: This tweek isn't working consistently for me. Bike still stalls maybe 1 out of 5 stops. It appears I may have to make another slight adjustment.
Glad it helped
Still having issues?
@@rideordie2736 Yep! Never got it working 100%. I never even went back for a second adjustment. I am not convinced the problem lies with just the adjustment, especially since I have never touched it since owning the bike. I feel the problem is much deeper and could potentially has something to do with the bike not getting enough fuel. I may take it to the track next week and ask some guys to fondle with it.
@@erictittle7531 hey not a bad idea , sorry could Snr fix it
My 07 R1 with 16k on it just started this stalling BS a few weeks ago. Done it twice so far as I come up to a light in low RPM. I'm gonna try this, thanks.
Did it work?
@@ThePancakee yes.
@@miketrg how long has it been working , any more isssues?
@@rideordie2736 no problems. Been years and years now.
@@miketrg that's good where did you set your at ,180 degree o more
25/9/2021 bought an r1 2006 2 days ago and it was doing the same thing.. Done this this morning drove for 2 3 hours ot runs perfect.. Thanks buddy 🙏🙏
Hey have you had any issues yet??
Worked great on my 07 r6 no power loss at all and completely fixed the stalling/low idle
I've heard a lot of good results.
These screws control the idle air/fuel mix ratio. I believe they are lean from the factory causing the stalling. Once you ricken them up then they run fine.
2:42 how did it run ?
You are correct.
I never got them balanced and have not had my bike stall since I did this adjustment. I understand it is not scientific and I didn't use a dyno, however I don't think they adjust them at all from the factory.
Mine stalls everytike the rpms drop to 1000, unless I hold the throttle
This is only a band-aid. The problem is related to 3 yes 3 different parts. 1) throttle bodies- the throttle bodies MUST be balanced and NOT the way the manual says. 2) Primary TPS MUST be adjusted to the indicated 16, not 17 not 15, 16. 3) The SECONDARY TPS must be adjusted to 17. If there is still an idle/stalling issue then valves should be checked, generator/stator bearings REPLACED (20 bucks at a bearing house) and the throttle bodies stripped and cleaned. 20 yrs as a mechanic, not a tech
I have a 2008 R1 that is stalling when I put it into gear. Any ideas?
@Zane Graves kick stand
How are you supposed to balance out the throttle bodies, if not according to the manual?
It worked on my bikes 07 /R1 & 07/R6 Fitted vacuum gauges afterward & it was close to perfect Just did tiny bit of fine tuning None of the 4 adjusting skrews is more 3/4 turns out Worked 4 me
I have an 08 R1 akrapovik y pipe pcV toce exhaust the whole nine and I have had this problem for a few months and it drives me crazy. Im going to try and do this fix today and see the results hope to keep you guys updated with real time information.
Did this fix your problem
?
I am back. Thanks for noticing. I should be able to shoot more vids now.
i had d same prob. i went to my local mechanic, he changed d spark plugs. and sprayed the 4 throttles body with carb cleaner while the bike is running. now so far everything run normal
Try an additional 1/4 in each direction to see if one way runs better than the other. If not, try a new battery, fresh plugs, and fresh gas.
Just like to say thank you very much. not try it yet .sad thing is yamaha in New Zealand and around the world will not fix this problem it has been a problem for many years every time I take my bike for a service and tell the technician about the bike staling thay have never heard of it thanks again
Awesome!
Even the chip controlled intake causes funky idle. This bike needs a lot of small tweeks
to get things right. Once you do the tweeks and understand that ANY modification means a check of all systems again, you will find that the bike will perform better than when you bought it. I used to be part of the forum where you got this info. I was banned for placing this info there.......need I say more?
I can't see why this is a problem by sharing a troubleshoot fix to a forum because that's what forums are for sometimes a service manual doesn't explain every repair or troubleshoot fully😮
That's just sad😢
Great job mate and thanks for putting up the vid.
I had same exact Issue on my R1 2011
My problem is that there was a lot of water and rust in the fuel tank. which blocked the top most fuel injector that are in the manifold.
Also the fuel pump was clogged by dirt.
THE FIX
I bought a new Fuel Pump and replaced with my old one which was working fine but It had no "right" pressure to push fuel to all the injectors.
I tested one by one the injectors to see which one is not injecting fuel out. I notice the all 4 were clogged. I went to a gas station where they repair the car/track fuel injectors using regulated pressure and it worked.
Also I checked my spark plugs they were fine, also I cleaned the fuel tank. After putting everything back the bike run fine... I was so happy
Point to note never let your bike run out of gas...since it will use the bottom gas which is usually at most cases dirty . In my case Big A** head forgot to check on the fuel level and i ended up drying out the tank.
Also I checked on the corroded terminals in fuel pump and the two connectors below the fuel tank .
That was the case with my bike.
you are a genius man, thank you for fixing my R1
thank you so so much sorted my 03 bike runs a treat now,,,the screws are a little lower on mine tho and harder to see,,,thanks again man
Glad I could help
How
@solidr1 The vid is 3 minutes. What do you mean get to the point?
i had my 2008 r1 for two years now and has 6500 miles on it. never have or had any problem. you made it sounds that all r1 it's a problamatic bike. it is not or per say a lemon.... it is all about adjustment.
Change the plugs when the bike is cold, the metal becomes very soft when it heats up so you are more likely to crossthread the new plugs when you install them. There is a lot of wiring and heat shields in the way. Just take your time and take pictures so you know where everything goes.
do you just re-use the bearings from the old clutch cover? the replacement cover/gasket did not come with bearings
If its an intermittent problem, check if your IGNITION COIL(S) are out of spec with an Ohm meter. Replace them (this sorted out my problem). If your throttle bodies are causing the problem sync them properly... OEM IGNITION COIL(S) about $80 each, avoid the cheap brands...
Have you had any problems since you made this change on your bike? I have a 2008 R1 and it's doing that same exact thing. I just would like to know if you or anyone whos done that change on thier bike from your suggestion have had any problems since. Thanks for the info.
I've heard that as well. Usually a symptom of a battery that's low in that application though.
Mr SparksGarage, did you see my post about no start on my 08 R1? Just hear a click like on a car with dead battery. Could it be starter relay? Have disconnected side stand and clutch switches. Have new battery, seems like an interlock switch or relay not letting power get to starter
@@davidandrews3146 double and triple check your battery terminals. Also take the battery and have it load tested at an auto parts store.
Have your battery tested is a good first step. Also make sure your fuel is on and there is fuel in it
gracias me sirvio muchisimo ahora con el motor caliente arranca mejor le deje vuelta y media osea 3 cuartos de vuelta tenia antes un cuarto y fallaba en caliente al encenderla ahora es un toque al boton y arranca
Hola disculpa como puedo subir las revoluciones de mi moto es r1 2007, es como muestra el video? Es que están muy bajas y se me apaga la moto en ocaciones. Gracias.
Thanks for the video brotha. Gonna try this tonight when I have my tank off. I just bought an 07 r1 and the idle is a little iffy
Did you tri mod yet ? Any issues
@@rideordie2736 no issues. Fixed the idle/stalling problems with both of my bikes. Just start at 180⁰ out and fiddle with it from there
@shawnspector Well. Read the other comments and that should answer your question! :) Fix worked great for me.... Haven't had a stall since I did it over 1500 miles ago....
I'm going to try this on my 2008 R1 now. I also notice that I have the 4 screws in different positions right now, but I assume it doesn't really matter. When they are closed they will be closed regardless the position. Then I just open each 1/2 turn. Right? Second question, did you ever balance the throttle bodies afterwards? You mention in the video that you might do. Thanks in advance.
@80sHitz Hope this is your fix man. Haven't had any complaints yet. Seems like yamaha shoulda done a recall...
Hi mate, I've just picked up a 2007 R6, and I have exactly the same problems. The bike was sold to me knowing that it had a problem, and I got it cheap because he was getting a bit pissed about the recurring problem. Once the clutch is engaged and the throttle released, the bike just starts to die out. I have to go through the gears quickly to try and use them to slow the bike and am more heavily reliant on the brakes rather than the gearing.
I was gonna do the TPS, but at $350 Ill wait. n c.
Ever fix the problem
@cybercorfu Throttle bodies were sync'd multiple times by the dealer. Its not the stand switch. Ive tried everything except getting a new bike. This has been discussed on many forums and has been beat to death. This is the only fix ive found. 3,000 miles later it still runs and works fine.
Hey Chris Marks, Did this fix your problem? I also have a 03 R6 same problem!
Thanks. Fixed mine
DaBull did you get it fixed
It is a system. One thing leads to another. A mis-aligned TPS will cause the idle to "pulse", a bad O2 sensor will cause fuel issues, tight valves will cause stalling and hard starting, bad generator bearings cause drag on the starter gear, un synced throttle bodies cause idle "pulse", I can go on and on. Difference is, I worked for Yamaha when this was going on, this "fix" is a solution AFTER the rest of the systems have been checked and cleared.
if the o2 sensor is faulty would one get a check engine code?
@solidr1 Go to that forum that I linked. The post on this problem goes on forever. It is an extremely common problem. Just like the 99-02 transmission probs on the R6.
did it work ? i have a r6 and it's doing that from time to time
Aren't those screws used to synchronize the throttle bodies? Shouldn't you at least synchronize them after you base set them at 1/2 turn out from all the way in?
Ill give your idea a go on the weekend and repost my success or failure.
Just been busy and out of town a lot.
I have had a ton of positive reviews. There have been one or two people that have had other problems though.
@ticklemefuzzy Very welcome! Post back on how it works for you. I've heard nothing but success stories so far. :)
check your clutch switch! replaced mine and it worked seems like it controls your idle as well when clutch lever is in!
Will this help with the jumpy low idle?
Yes
So are those 4 screws for the vacuum sync?
@Anas Eisa The dealer would have you change out every single electrical part if they could....
I’ve done research and people also say it’s the valve adjustment issue, my bike stalls while riding when I down shift or pull the clutch in, I have a 2007 r6
So healtec makes a throttle body reader so that can be perfectly synced. Did this work or worth buying the sensor?
I haven’t looked into it
Sparky?... does this work for an 07 R6 ?
Have the same exact issue
# reply
It should!
How did you get to the 2 middle ones ??
They’re all pretty easily accessible.
Did this also help fix the starting issue? Bike will crank, and I would have to give it throttle till it is about 160* then it will idle.
Sounds like you're having a separate problem
+calairo15 Did you ever fix this problem? I am having the same problem with my 07 R1! Let me know. Thank You.
Shawn Mills the fix i found was when you start the bike, keep holding in the starter button 3 seconds after the bike starts. It has something to do with loop in the computer. Let me know if it works with yours.
I will let you know! I will try tomorrow! Its starting to drive me crazy though. Cause I start it hold for a few secs at low rpm and then after about 30 secs it stay on and runs. I can drive normally. Like nothing. Then if I get to a store or somewhere where It stays off for more than a few mins I struggle to turn it on again! Only when it freshly starts after awhile regardless if its cold or not.
+Shawn Mills same thing as mine. Cold start, bike starts right up, bike is warm, it takes several cranks, idles, then does. So on a warm start, push start button without letting go even after bike starts, and count to 3.
@matrixbikes Dunno what to tell ya. Syncing the tb's didnt work... This did.
Thanks man, I really appreciate it.
I tried this and it did not help. My 2007 has been rough idleing from 1-1.3k. Stall at lights when pull in clutch. Also put in new battery, 17k miles. Termigoni exhaust. Any tips? Seems a lot of people have this issue but almost no definitive fixes
Nicholas S, did you ever find a fix to your problem? Cause I'm having the same issue and I'm waiting my options
Yes, I just changed my plugs to iridium and its been running great. Up to 19k miles now
did it fix the problem ???
Did the bike ran better after this adjustment?
Much much much better. No stalling or hesitation off the throttle.
Did you also turn 180 degree out from tight, the screw with the white paint on it too?
All of them have white paint i believe. That's how they are marked from the factory
ok. im going to tell my machanic to try that tomorrow. i will let you know if this works for me also. thanks
Question 2006 is the same ? Or only 2007 2008?
I believe so
I mean i went out for an hr after this and didnt stall clutched in all stops so seems to work only other thing i could think of is mayb having to do a sync and really get it dialed in but if that doesnt help you need a valve adjustment.
Question: are u guys stalling due to low idle? I'm at 14k (07) and I'm having this problem basically a cold start. Replaced plugs, filter, battery and charging system good. Wondering if I should give this a shot
Brandon Ryan It'll probably help
i have the same exact bike with the same amout of miles..... with the same exact issue. Please let me know if this works for you!
John Youssef I just did this fix about 30 min. ago after having this problem for a while and I have to say so far so good the bike seems to idle a little smoother and I was purposely trying to make it stall out coming to lights but it hasn't yet!
Jordan Widdiss Funny you mention this. Here we are 2 months later; it turns out the reason my bike kept stalling was because somehow the the position sensor got unplugged. How this happened? I haven't the slightest clue! Anyways- thank you for the response; i appreciate it!
John Youssef the TPS sensor got unplugged? Where exactly is it located to check on mine? And did this not cause a code for the check engine light to come on for you??
Very welcome
is that a carburetor or an efi?
Valves, book says 26,000 mile to first check......do a CHECK every 10k. TPS.....if the cable TPS is off the computer gets a negative position indication when the throttle closes which makes the computer cut fuel and ignition as the bike is supposed to be "off" at that point. The TPS for the plates must be exact to control bypass air to keep the idle stable at quick close. This was done with a IAC valve in Suzuki or a SDTV.
Yamaha uses the TPS and single throttle plates.
my r1 2008 starter motor need to be replaced!what is the original starter motor manufacturer part no?or any suggestion of better starter motor ?
D Duncan Factory parts for stuff like that
@jlsparky7 I understand you. The only thing I was saying that this is the right way to synchronize them.
I had the same issue with my bike but the problem was not the synchronization it was the power commander. The dealer who set up the bike on his dyno was giving way too much fuel to the low rpm range. It was cutting out every time I came to the stop. Also had a terrible idle. I did everything and when I hooked up my laptop I saw the mistake the dealer did.
So has this fixed everybodys bike whos done it?
I'm just trying to help out. Seems to me you're on an ego trip. Like I mentioned, a lot of people have tried the fixes you listed and had no luck with them. It is a process of elimination just like anything else. I don't care how much you make or what names you can drop.
@shawnspector Glad the vid helped!
Ok well nobody has mentioned what I've encountered so I'll share and hope it helps. 2007 r1. First off eventually your stator magneto will go bad. They have an updated part number which is a different part and is around $500 which clearly tells me they became aware of the problem but did no recall. Went from wood barrel style to half moon style magnets. Ur magneto powers ur bike if the magnets begin to loosen and break your gonna experience power cut outs and bits of broken magnet in ur block (drain it out) but by that time ur battery is giving out cuz its now powering the bike however that's not the only issue. Once u change the magneto ur gonna get codes here and there. Its gonna say kickstand switch but its not the issue. If u dont believd me turn on the bike get it rolling on the bike stand and click it into first with the kickstand down. If it stalls the switch is fine don't bypass it. Ur also gonna have ppl telling u its the clutch sensor but if ur neutral light is on then ur clutch switch is fine. The issue i found to be in the unnecessary circut made to kill the main switch wired to the kickstand and clutch switch. Per the wiring diagram theres a red plug on the clutch lever side under the main fairing ziptied to the main harness. One wire is blue/yellow and the other is blue/black. That plug goes to the main switch and with handlebar rocking movement the wire breaks like when u bend a wire till it breaks causing a broken circuit immediately killing the bike but wiggle the handlebars a bit and it'll come back. So basicallt its a broken wire. Its a pain in the ass to replace the ignition cuz the bolts holding it in are like rivets they don't come out so what i did was bypass the unnecessary line by simply unplugging the red plug and jumping the one end with a paper clip closing the circuit and taped it. The male connector that goes to the ignition just sits there and it's fine. I've never had an issue thus far and ive never had to do this throttle sync thing in this video. They're just minor design flaws but can be super dangerous while riding. If this helps you im glad and Ur welcome also tell yamaha they assholes for not doing the recall on the magneto. Also try to gap ur spark plugs pretty well, i notice better idle/throttle response with properly gapped plugs.
@date_soto could you let me know simply what was solution of this issue? You said it was bad design magneto? or sth more?
Simon Sadkowski as far as the magneto goes you have to completely swap it out cuz the one they came with factory eventually breaks.
As far as the other issues, The EXUP COULD cause an issue but a stalling has not been reported. Best thing is to remove the valve,NOT the motor unless you have the bypass chip. the EXUP does nothing anyway. Generator bearing go bad quick and can cause the shaft to stick which burns the rotor or the stator or both.
Glad it helped :) and thanks for the info
what about overheating n shut off or red light
So I just had my 07 R1 ecu flashed. I let the bike warm up to 196 degrees, revved to about 10k and when the rpms came down the bike stalled. Now it wont start. Might this fix it?
That is all I did, now I wish I had not. I have watched your other vids and you are almost spot on to what the "greats" do, this is the only one I added any info to because of the seriousness of the problem. Again, sorry to have even logged on, I was looking for others with stator bearing failure to gain some more insight as to failure rate and how ( street riding, track, etc). I just happened to see yours. Again, Sorry for trying to help.
Have you sync the TB?
yamaha r6 2011 problems is during acceleration stalling between 4-6k rpm,can you tell me where is problem?
@jlsparky7 I'm just a little nervous. I'm not a mechanic but I'm a pretty descent engineer. I would feel more secure about the procedure if you would have specifically shown Each of the four screws in the video so I know I'm messing with the right stuff. But I'm wondering if I show my dealer mechanic this video, if he will do this for me.
@miketrg Post back and let me know. Should work!
My 2005 r1 idle high around 2000+ could it be same problem..only just started..38000 on clock..great vid..any help much appreciated..
Would this issue plagie the 2006 model r6 as well? My friend seems to have the exact same issue?? Thanks for the reply
YES!!! Lol i have the same bike w/issue dealer couldnt figure it out just did this and rode for an hour all clutch in stops and not one stall make sure after you let the bike warm up a little
hello sir :) i have yamaha r1 2005 and one day it is just wont start up for no reason it is look good i check every thing but :(
let me know if u have solution for that pleaes
i have a 2012 yamaha r6 with the same problem, will this fix it? Thanks
thatredR6rider Should
Any ideas on another R1 problem i have? Sometimes it just clicks when you try to start, like an interlock clutch or side stand switch defective. Battery is new. Starter relay maybe?
I am curious now. You ever figure it out?
Could be a starter relay, otherwise could be your starter on the way out, start with the relay because it's cheaper and easier to fix and if that doesn't do it start looking at the starter, if you tap on the starter while it's doing that and it starts the bike, usually it's a good indication it's the starter
If you want to offer additional info, then great. If you wanna get on here and rant and carry on then that's a problem.
Hey mate, just a question.
My bike, cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I deccelerate.
Do you have any idea what the issue might be?
Thanks
Sounds electrical. Check all of your connections and grounds.