I used to install Bendpak lifts in the UK and seeing lifts falling over because concrete isn't deep enough is scary as hell. We used to fail the floor on anything less than 6". Glad you went with the deeper concrete. I don't know if you'll see this but make sure you check the torque on the bolts again every few days for the first few weeks, the bolts will stretch as they settle.
Good advice there. I am planning exactly the same project for my own garage later this year, including cutting part of the floor and pouring a thicker slab of high PSI concrete.
Just watched the video and had the exact same thought. They've already gone through the expense of pouring a new pad and the cost of the lift, itself. May as well maximize the value and usefulness of the lift by raising the roof. Honestly, that would be the cheapest part of the whole project.
@@ABQSentinel though i disagree with the thought that it is useless or pointless as it is, id agree it would likely be cheaper than the rest of the project to raise the roof, if he does it himself
As a first responder I had two fatal accidents where the person installed a two post lift in old concrete that was not thick enough. when I had my pad done I had the concrete contractor do the pad 8 inches thick with the 24 inches where the lift was going to be 12 inches. I had 7500 psi concrete used. There was also a lot of rebar put in with boxes around the post attach points. It cost me an additional $300, I love overkill as opposed to getting killed. It was worth the extra money for my peace of mind. My lift is a 10,000 lb. lift.
an extra 300? ONLY 300? WHY WOULD SOMEONE NOT DO THAT? THE WHOLE INSTALLATION HAS TO BE OVER 10K AN EXTRA 300 TO ENSURE YOU DONT FUCKING DIE IS NOTHING? HOW DO PEOPLE CHEAP OUT ON THE CHEAPEST AND MOST IMPORTANT THINGS???????
@@finkyfamboni4333 It's a lot cheaper when you're first building your house/shop to make these changes. After the house/shop is built it would probably cost around $2500 to have the pad tore out and the new pad poured. Still, $2500 is cheaper than losing a limb, becoming paralyzed, or losing your life.
I don’t understand why the column bases have such a small footprint. I would never get under one of those things regardless of concrete thickness. You’re relying on those anchors which could pull through or fail regardless. They should use 4 posts or have a large enough base under the 2 posts so that the thing could stand on its own with a vehicle on board.
Civil Eng. here, I about had a heart attack when you said it was ok for 4inch thick concrete, glad you didnt go with that. also you might want to give the concrete coating of Epoxy, PU or MMA flooring to stop oil, degreasers and other toxic crap from corroding your concrete, I have actually seen that stuff get under the lifts, break down the concrete and cause the lifts to destabilise , also might be worth putting some Silicon around the lifts base.
Coming back and watching this video I'm SO glad we did the new concrete. The 6:36 mark is scary how easy that concrete broke and scary how thin it was! WHOOOOOO!!! HOOOOOO!!!
@briansmobile1 Just now watched a video. Noticed that when car was lifted in the end, it looked like one side(that closer to lift control panel) of the car is lower. Difference can be seen by shadows under the tires. Curious if that was noticed later and fixed or that is not a problem?
My buddy bought a used lift, no instructions. I came across your video and we greatly appreciate you taking the time to film your project. Getting a visual with commentary from you both was a tremendous help!
Here in Europe the requirement for these types of installations is typically 20cm (just under 8 inches) of concrete so it's really good that you got a thicker slab. Safety is important, so sometimes you've just have to bite the bullet and get it done properly.
A lot depends on what the PSI of the concrete is. My floor was poured 4" but extra heavy concrete (higher PSI). My contractor knew I would istall a lift someday so he made sure it was poured correctly. Also has double rebar and steel screen. Now, if the lift will finally get here...
Being a lazy critter with experience setting bottom bolts on towers up to 200' tall, the one thing I would have done differently is to make a one piece plywood template of the footprint of the two (pillars perfectly spaced and aligned of course) and used that as a jig to suspend J-bolts in the wet concrete - voila, done. Not criticizing - just suggesting for anyone watching the video and thinking of a new floor under their new lift.. Also, an existing floor can have openings cut where the pillars will stand, excavate and pour new footings for the pillars - with the J-bolts jigged into position - for less money than a complete new floor. After seeing the bend of the lift arms under your lightweight pickup I will be ordering a 4 post with track jacks for lifting my one-ton diesel pickups.. Half a lifetime as an engineer in heavy industrial manufacturing plants has taught me the hard way that, if something mighta possibly, sorta, coulda happened (no matter how unlikely) it will. It's only a question of when.
A 4 post lift is great for vehicle storage, but not for vehicle maintenance. For every job, there's a correct tool. A lightweight 2 post lift isn't the best choice for heavy diesel pickups, but the answer isn't to go to a 4 post, the answer is to upsize the list to a 12k or just buy a better lift. I use a Mohawk 10k 2post lift for my 8000 pound Ram pickup, and its rock steady
Absolutely DO NOT cut openings in the floor and pour new footings where the lift pillars will stand. Your J-bolt idea isn't bad if you can lift the pillars into the air and drop them over the bolts sticking out if the concrete, but to tell someone that has too thin if a concrete pad to simply cut openings where the lift pillars will stand and excavate and pour new thicker footings only under the pillars is completely unsafe and ridiculous to save money. I don't know where you got your engineering degree but I sure as hell wouldn't be working under THAT lift! You need a complete new floor there's no way around it. The entire floor slab is where you get the strength. Simply cutting holes in thin concrete and putting the lift posts on thick stilts is the stupidest and most ridiculous advice I've ever heard. It will undoubtedly topple over. I have NO degree in engineering and that's my advice.
@@TT-hq1hl it's obvious you have no understanding of the center of gravity and force of gravity applied to the column of the vehicle lift. So apparently since you know all about the Romans making column supports you know that they'll work for supporting columns for a vehicle lift. I guess you and the Romans know more than the Lift manufacturer! Lmao I love people that have no fucking clue what they're talking about like you
@@TT-hq1hl tell the ambulance people about the Romans and their column footings as they're pulling your crushed body out from under a toppled lift because you thought you new how to support it properly.. "well the Romans built columns like this I thought it would work lol I have a degree.. not sure why this collapsed.. guess I was wrong.." lol good luck buddy hope your education helps you out with some common sense
Dudes !!! I'm a General Contractor and I'm building a pole barn in the back. Your video answered every single question I had about the lift, the concrete and how the lift was assembled and functioned. The dolly was an awesome idea, my back thanks you in advance. Since I'm pouring the slab I have no thickness issues but was wondering how thick to go. I'm gonna go 12" thick and roll with 8" x 3/4" Sleeve Anchors I think. Great video! Thanks!
Not to say this was an easy thing by any means but this was honestly much simpler than I expected. I'd like to do this one day. Thanks for the inspiration!
Why am I seeing so many lift installation videos recommended to me all of a sudden? So glad this guy seems to go about it much better/safer than the last 2 I've watched!
Nice, very nice! I would add that for anyone, if you are replacing your concrete slab, to lay a 600mm x 300mm x 10mm thick MS steel plate under the location of the columns, embed in and flush with the concrete (made it dead level - very easy to do as can be tapped mm here or there). That totally destresses the area (UDL vs point load) under column, and will be full contact with column baseplate, so virtually every failure mechanism will be avoided. Also do that if you have minimum concrete thickness, just grind down 10mm and epoxy under the plate to fill low points. It's all about maximising surface contact to spread the load. AND it's way better than shimming - a practice that leads to more cracking failures from my experience. If you can not put a steel plate down, and your column base plate (or the slab) is warped then grinding out a little concrete is still preferred, use the wet paint method to tell the high spots. Note drilling holes through the 10mm steel plate - either making them align with concrete holes after is ok, but easier to put holes big enough for anchors to be drilled in concrete through the plate.
Glad to see someone actually pouring a new pad. Most people are afraid of spending the money on concrete. I would of installed actual anchors though and tied then into the rebar.
I don't own a truck nor even a car at the moment. Neither do I have a garage space. And I am certainly no car mechanic nor a wanna be Tim Taylor. Yet I still watched the entirety of this vid. If that is not an indication of compelling presentation, I don't know what is. Beers [or the beverage of your choice[ to you both!
FYI torque specs come with anchor kits. If the anchors came with the lift I'd just look up specs for same diameter anchor with reputable company like Hilti for example. Personally I would have poured 2 footings where the columns bolted down instead of redoing entire slab. Would have been cheaper & stronger IMHO. Been in contruction for 30+ years. Glad you mentioned you did allow concrete time to cure. 😎👍
It wouldn't have been much cheaper. Maybe $50 less concrete and a $100 less labor. And it most definitely wouldn't have been stronger. It doesn't take much more for the contractor to do one larger pad. Maybe 20 min more on the machine, and less small cuts of rebar. The holes for the rebar pins you would save in the middle of the big pad will be eaten up by the inside sides of the two small pads. It's minuscule.
After working in several rehabbed shop buildings and seeing many floors crack because of thin floors I've always told people when in doubt install a 4 poster, it doesn't require a thicker floor because it sits on 4 points and not dependent on a 2ft pattern of bolts to hold the weight. Especially if the car start rocking. As far as the low ceiling, I've worked from computer chairs and used ratchet straps to lower transmissions & differentials from under low cars. When space is limited you need to think outside the box.
Funny story. I'm an electrician.. We were wiring a brand new national tire company store. The g.c. neglected to pour the required concrete for the commercial grade lifts. X 8 garage bays. He had to cut up some major concrete and dig down and repour all of the areas affected. This was after the lift guys did exactly as you did and drilled through the slab. Always follow specs!
I'm sure the marketing department asked the engineers, "what is the least you could get away with" and they answered something like, "well if you had some reeealy hard and well compacted ground and you had ultra hard concrete with lots of rebar in there, then you might be able to get away with 110mm". The marketing department rounded this down to 4 inches of course and boom, sales are through the roof.
Awesome video. When it comes to lifts, safety is paramount. 8 inches is perfect. 10 foot ceilings is great for sports cars. 12 foot minimum for trucks/vans.
The website specifies minimum 4" of 3000 psi concrete. The psi rating and amount of rebar make a huge difference as far as how thick it needs to be. Many garage slabs are made with 2000 psi concrete and no real substrate. That would explain the 7" spec you mentioned. A cheaper solution to questionable concrete strength is to weld a 30" long by 14" wide 1/2" steel plate under the posts. That will spread the load and stresses out farther. Install the factory anchors as in the plan and add 8 more anchors in the new plate (4 on each side). If you tear up and pour a new concrete floor, you have to wait 28 days for the concrete to cure before drilling any holes in it.
A handy tip for anyone installing concrete anchors in any situation is to avoid hitting the bolt with a hammer and possibly damaging the threads. Use the Hammer drill and set it to hammer and use the bit to drive the anchor into the concrete much easier.
I ran into a similar problem for one of the 2 posts for the Max-Jax lift I bought. I had a good 4" plus for 1 post, but the slab was about 3" for the other post and the shields would not grab. My solution was to cut out a 1' x 1' square of the existing slab, and dig down 1' to make a foundation to support that one post. I added a tic-tac-toe pattern of scrap re-bar pieces I got from a local job site. I was able to work the re-bar under the surrounding slab. A couple bags of Sakrete high strength 5000 Plus concrete mix and the problem was solved, albeit a bit overkill. Keep in mind that most garage slabs are poured using a frame made of 1" x 4" - which is actually 3/4" x 3-1/2", so the slab is likely to be closer to 3-1/2" thick. By the way, I have a 10' ceiling in my shop, and the Max-Jax is perfect for that application. I have lifted from a BMW Z3 to a Dodge Ram 1500, and much in between. A low ceiling means you can't stand under a vehicle. My lift came with a rolling seat that lets me scoot around under a vehicle with just enough head clearance. I've serviced a transmission, rebuilt a couple of front ends, several brake jobs, axles, etc. I would have avoided doing many of those t asks without a lift!
When you installed the shims, the overall force, and hence the pressure will be on the area below the shims, not the whole lift pad, so the PSI value should be taken for area of the shim, not the pad..
Thanks for the Video! Got mine 2 weeks ago, and picked it up in Montreal (160miles from my place) and put it inside my 2007 GMC Savana van haha. Just gotta install it now...
I would like to say that something that has kept me coming back to your videos is the fact you could make multiple shorter videos for a project. But you choose to when you can see a project through!
They make many glues that will make those bolts solid in the concrete and they are as strong as the concrete itself. It’s not cheap but it does work. I have used it on safe rooms in new house construction. If any of the bolts don’t hold go to your contractor supply and ask them.
I have some cracks after installing my 2 post lift. I am very sure I didn't get the anchors down all the way before I tightened them. I was wondering if I could get away with simply replacing the anchors? Pound the old ones through and put new anchors in at full depth? Or if I fix it right and cut out and pour a new slab do you really think 4x4x6 inches deep is fine?
WOW! seriously what a great how to on the actual lift i was interested in purchasing. as a side note those toggle or red head style bolts have a tensile strength of at least 180ksi unless you could get them into bending which you can't with those base plates you could never fail those bolts doing their jobs, the concrete would way before fail and break up. then re-doing the floor on your build as all have said "4" is at best sketchy" then finding how thin your slab was was a no go, also most garage slabs are not properly rebared to be strong enough to begin with thicker or not. the overhead trussed lifts makes a big difference on how those uprights load, and bow in even when you center the CG over the uprights. you see the flex of the uprights allot more without that overhead style cross member lifts but those you cant use in low ceiling heights period. i really appreciate the no hype no attitude you and your friends bring watching you guys work and do the job along with the explanations of what is going on. most others hype and carry on until i have to stop watching them or suffer though hoping they will actually tell you something other than allot of mis or no information just look at me, am i cool or what? again big thanks really appreciate you and what you presented here.
I'd much rather crouch under a vehicle with nothing in the way instead of laying on my back with Jack stands next to me. Also when doing exhaust work or even any welding the extra height sure as hell helps.
Way better when install transmissions and exhaust and brakes and many more. Excellent Job, men around the USA dream of a lift that makes working on a automobile easier.
I guess use a chair. But to go and pay big money on the lift and new concrete without being able to stand. I would re work the roof to be able to stand.
i got the same lift. supposed to have a plastic tray under the ramp to keep the hydraulic lines and cables separate. If you dont have that its going to wear through the hoses. Talks about it in the instructions and all baseplate lifts have them. Also the two nuts arent supposed to have the washer between. Thats is just for shipping. Washer goes under first nut. second is lock nut.
He already had to remove old concrete... 🤔 wouldn't it be better to go all the way down and do it this way? Unless next episode will be all about lifting garage ceiling 😁
I am sure 100% he didn't install the lift and go through all that pain of concrete and installing the lift just so that he could go under the truck to fix(which hardly happens)
thanks for the video, I'm in the process of getting one started. have the slab and carport made already at 15ft high and 5 1/2 inch slab and now in the process of getting electricity installed. this video helped alot, Thanks
I used these type of lifts for years here in CA without issue. Having some heavy-duty bar going across to add strength would really limit what you could do with a car. Normally the car or truck can be above those posts. If there is any type of bar going across, that is your height limit now no matter what. Really wouldn't do all that much anyway. These type of lifts are quite safe so long as you mount a car/truck on them correctly and is in 100% working order so it doesn't fall off the lift. Even then the lift is not going anywhere, just the vehicle. These days I no longer work on cars. I work at a Food Factory and have installed a number of Industrial machines and used quite a few of these anchors. The important part of these lifts is the thickness of the cement. I remember at work when we were getting a new 2-post lift they also cut out and pored a much thicker pad for it. It's still there and been in use for around 20 years. A bar on top wouldn't do anything to stop a tower from falling over because of too thin of cement, or anchor failure. I haven't seen any anchors fail before. I'm using Stainless ones normally. They are also going through tile before going into the cement. It's a washdown environment and lots of chemicals used and RUST is something to avoid. I also use some type of silicon in the hole and around the anchor to help keep the water out.
I would recommend taking those concrete anchors for the columns up to 150ft pds as my dad is a certified lift installer and he always puts them at 150ft pds no matter the make of the lift. Again just a recommendation but overall a very nice install. Also they make an over head cut off kit to keep you from going too high when lifting a larger vehicle with low ceilings.
The torque requirement for anchors is specified by the manufacturer based on the anchor material and pullout resistance of the concrete. It has nothing to do with the lift itself. A 3/4" wedge anchor in 4000psi concrete will pull out at about 12000 Lbs of tension. The weak part is the concrete and not the anchor. Torquing up to 150 ft lb will exceed that max pullout capacity of the concrete. You don't typically torque wedge anchors the same as you would a bolt or nut. Those 3/4 anchors are typically torque to about 110 ft lb. If your dad is going to 150 ft lb with 3/4" wedge or chemical anchors then he's doing it wrong.
@@OU81TWO This is true. Rotary 2 post lifts for example call for exactly 110 ft lbs for the 3/4" anchors and then 60 ft lbs "maintanence" torque every month.
Man...I just opened a garage and I was thinking to order some of these lifts and installing them myself...very useful. Now I know what to expect. Thanks 😊
Just did a pour for our shop build, we did 2 4 x4 x 14 inch deep footers for the lift ( a 10 k 2 post , Rotary brand) the rest of the slab is 5 inches, a little overkill is never a bad thing when installing a lift.
Zach, this is way late but one thing I'm curious about is why you didn't put the anchors in the wet concrete and drilled them in instead. I imagine that placing them into the wet concrete would have been stronger overall or am I wrong about that? Or was there another reason?
That’s not how wedge anchors are intended to be used. Additionally, it would be very difficult to get them set in the proper position AND set the lift post on top. These posts are massively heavy.
@@coreyscarrepairs Forget my last comment, my brain is foggy... So, putting them in wet concrete would necessitate different types of anchors. You're right, you can't use wedge anchors in wet concrete and I wasn't suggesting that. But there's anchors that are meant for wet concrete that would easily be used instead. As for alignment. This is something that's done all the time. The easiest would be to use a steel base plate that gets embedded into the concrete too that has the anchors going through it. Lastly, these are meant to roll into place, and there's play in the anchor holes, so you'd just roll it into place and then angle it vertical with the anchors going into the holes as it gets lifted vertical.
Thats good, i like how you drilled the rebar into the existing slab. I like the drive on 4 posts lifts better, with the rolling jack to take the wheels off.
Regarding the concrete thickness: Another option may be to obtain a 1" thick plate of steel to dimensions that would double the square inches of the footing so your anchored to twice ot more of the floor and it distributes the load over twice or more of the foot: so the uplifting force on the bolts are spread or a much larger footing
Exactly. When I buy the hoist I'm looking at , I want them to lengthen the footing of the towers by 100%...and if they won't, then I will have the footings made up out of plate and attach them to the concrete, and then weld or bolt the towers to the plates.
I would recommend purchasing a truck adapter kit for your lift if available as well as adding a limit switch to your hoist to prevent any accidents from occurring.
The basic fact that you stopped and did the safe thing with the concrete, are wearing a mask for the dust and hearing protection made my sub right away. I know your work is getting done the right way.
While I don't believe you have an issue with the hardware of your lift, I don't exactly agree with your interpretation of the PSI rating of the concrete. Concrete does not have the same PSI rating in compression as it does in tension. In fact it is radically different. You can compress the hell out of concrete, but you can't pull on concrete with nearly the same force. So while the expanders at the bottom of the concrete anchors have several aspects to them, as they expand outward (compression - good), the force pulling "up" on the concrete is partially in tension (bad). This is one of the factors in why there is a minimum thickness requirement for these kinds of lifts. Excellent choice in replacing the slab. ;)
Brian doing the heavy lifting like a champ! With Hitman's style of hair. In all seriousness though, is he Ok? kind of got worried about him when he shaved his head like that.
I installed a Rotary 2 post in my shop this spring and had the same concrete situation. I opted to do (2) 4x7ft pads that are 12” deep and also have about 12” small footing in the center.
"better safe than dead". Lol Too bad they didn't compact the soil first. A lot of contractors are lazy when building houses and throw concrete over with out compacting, and that's where you see over time the drive way settle. But the garage hopefully was poured as part of foundation and they usually compact for that.
What a pain! Good video bro. I excavated 2x3x12 for my lift under the slab before concrete in my shop for a 16,000 lift for safety reasons. Big O chunk of concrete lol
Good DIY video. I've been researching lifts a lot. Yes the 10k lifts that I read about do require more than 4" of 3000psi concrete. I'm looking at 9k lifts and they call for 4" 3000 psi concrete. I called my concrete guy and he said my floor is 4" thick and 3500psi concrete with rebar reinforcement. Hope i don't drill into the rebar 👀
I installed my Atlas lift back in March and I love it. I’m in a wheelchair and I love doing all the maintenance work on both my car and my wife’s car. But I went with a four post lift because quite frankly two post lifts scare the hell out of me. I feel much safer being under my four post lift over a two post lift. My garage ceiling is only nine feet tall but that’s not a problem with me. I don’t need the lift to raise my vehicles very high because I’m in a wheelchair. This means I can easily roll around underneath my vehicles and do what I need to do without any height issues. I posted a short video of my lift if anyone is interested in seeing it. th-cam.com/video/vAJeDqJQ758/w-d-xo.html
Rotary type post lift doesn't have that annoying hump across the middle. That hump gives that cringe moment when coming in, when the wheels hit the hump.. a few things goes through my mind. Did I pick up all the tools left on the floor? Oh, it's just the hump. Easy on the throttle...Easy... Easy... don't want it to launch into the wall. Rotary works on a worm screw drive, so it doesn't need to go up a bit to unlatch the safeties before coming down. Which is kinda important when you have low ceilings and trying to use that last inch of space. Scissor lift are the best, it disappears into the floor when not in use. Lights on the ceiling is broken? Just ride the scissor lift up.
What specifications would you recommend for someone doing to footings option? Looking to help a friend install one on an existing pad but would like to make sure it is safe. Thank you!
Kyle Burraston According to some reps that I spoke to they said 5’X5’ squares (with the posts on center) at 7” deep, 3500 psi concrete. I would rather go a little bit larger though and pour completely across. It won’t cost that much more.
I always recommended a rectangle cutout 6 inches wider than than the three outside faces of the pad that ran completely contiguous between the posts. So many people skip the step of tying back into the existing slab with rebar, and one side would settle causing the lift to twist if its an overhead. This one being a baseplate isn't free from those issues just because it isn't connected at the top of the posts. If you have a settling issue after a solid slab pour, you can simply disassemble the lift and fix the pad, the lift won't be damaged. If you do two pier's, you only have a small gap between of existing concrete. Might as well clear that out, it's not much more money and your already going through all the work.
Came here looking for this. Why in the world would you not install footers tied into the slab and studs for the lifts? Wedge bolts for a lift? Yeah, that's 'standard' and the web is full of examples of how these things pull out over time. Hell, I'd connect the footers with a beam just to be sure. The additional cost in nothing relative to your life
yup check the torque on the bolts every year as well. I know its been a few months since install but in commercial projects, yearly special inspection should be done by the owner on anchors. With wedge anchors, these are 3/4 Diameter, probably some Chinese BS non the less, should be torqued down to 110lbs per sf. If unsure, check the ESR document for that particular anchor. Also with wedge anchors there is specific spacing between the c/c of each anchor as well as edge distance. If you were using a Powers SD1 anchor, I wouldn't used a wedge anchor if you were withing 16" of an expansion joint, which maybe you are not. You could go down to 11" at a minimum though but its your choice. If it was me, I would use b7 rod and a adhesive anchor either Hilti say "hit200 or powers ac200. You would also want to have the anchors spaced a minimum of 6" apart from each other. Just becuase you have 8 holes in the base plate does not mean you have to use them all, normally you would want to use the extremities and if you were trying to hit that minimum edge distance you could go in a hole. More anchors does not mean more holding power, it could in fact reduce the effectiveness of the anchor.
Thanks for making this video, very helpful when I installed my symmetrical two post hoist. Something I wish I thought about was length of the arms. I chose a hoist with two piece arms that can't be shortened enough to reach the lift points on my short wheel based cars. Just a tip for people doing their research.
Metric tape measures aren't as readily available as imperial ones in the states, it sounds like the instructions were metric so instead of going out and shopping for a metric tape measure they just converted to imperial and used what they had
@@fakename287 I work in the Oil Industry here in Canada and i still remember the first time as a first year Apprentice that my journeyman gave me a measurement in Imperial and i went whaaaa? (Since we only learn Metric in school now) Luckily we all carry dual measurement tapes since we deal with both Imperial/Metric stuff on a day to day basis.
Because we are capable of doing fractions (do them every day) . For real fun naval architect plans are in 1/8" dimensions. AN bolts in aircraft have their own rules. I also can get by in drams, gills, pints, gallons, hogsheads, bushels and barrels for volume - as well as ten yard loads of gravel. And grains, ounces, pounds, tons (long and short) as well as kilograms. Also unbothered when faced with watts, joules, kPa, Nm, inch pounds, foot pounds, and on and on. Conversions are a way of life if you are doing anything in the science or engineering fields. Now being flexible I would have simply used a couple of metric rulers (already have them) as you are suggesting. All the home improvement stores, hardware stores, auto parts stores in the US sell metric rulers these days.
Hi, good call on pulling the trigger and replacing the concrete pad. For future reference 6 inches of concrete is a bare minimum for this type of lift. Although there exists a chemical anchor which can be used if your concrete is less thick. But again there is a bare minimum of about 4 inches. If you use this chemical anchor, simply drill a size large hole and deeper. Longer anchors to push into the chemical solution will also work better. Source: I sell and install lifts for workshops Congrats on your new lift
9:40 how big is your head to be able to keep your ear protection on your head like that?? why is my head so small ?what's wrong with me? Small brain? haha
Interesting video. I'm hoping to install one of these in my new place not long after I get settled in. I'm not an installer, nor do I claim ANY sort of expertise or even any experience with installing these lifts, but I one thought about your installation... In the interest of economy, but still being safe, I wondered why you tore out and replaced the entire section of floor instead of just a strip of the floor, or even just a couple squares where the uprights go...
For rebar to add exstra strength one square can seddle to easily u see how they put rebar in the sides of the slab that was still there it’s to add more integrity
I used to install Bendpak lifts in the UK and seeing lifts falling over because concrete isn't deep enough is scary as hell. We used to fail the floor on anything less than 6". Glad you went with the deeper concrete. I don't know if you'll see this but make sure you check the torque on the bolts again every few days for the first few weeks, the bolts will stretch as they settle.
Wish more people would interact to get this up, while I'm sure he looked deeply into the safety aspect it never hurts
Good advice there. I am planning exactly the same project for my own garage later this year, including cutting part of the floor and pouring a thicker slab of high PSI concrete.
I will. Thank you!
I screenshotted your comment and took the extra step to contact his Instagram.
I also treated Adam. Good advice!
Next episode:
"Today we're raising the ceiling of my garage with the new lift"
I was going to say the same thing you can't work underneath a car. They will be hunched over and GG on ur back
Just watched the video and had the exact same thought. They've already gone through the expense of pouring a new pad and the cost of the lift, itself. May as well maximize the value and usefulness of the lift by raising the roof. Honestly, that would be the cheapest part of the whole project.
Yep. Worthless to have lift
Yea, did I miss something? Why such a system just to lift a vehicle a few feet?
@@ABQSentinel though i disagree with the thought that it is useless or pointless as it is, id agree it would likely be cheaper than the rest of the project to raise the roof, if he does it himself
78yr old mechanic. Great information. I'm planning for a shop, and will be adding the extra concrete depth when pouring my slab.
Staying alive is kind of important.
It’s a bit overrated if you ask me
its not important trust me
@@robinmoney6529 ikr
being alive is kinda more fun than bein dead (maybe if your undead its fun too) :P
No not really
Zack : the cable did not come with the lift.
Apple : we already making new friends .
As a first responder I had two fatal accidents where the person installed a two post lift in old concrete that was not thick enough. when I had my pad done I had the concrete contractor do the pad 8 inches thick with the 24 inches where the lift was going to be 12 inches. I had 7500 psi concrete used. There was also a lot of rebar put in with boxes around the post attach points. It cost me an additional $300, I love overkill as opposed to getting killed. It was worth the extra money for my peace of mind. My lift is a 10,000 lb. lift.
an extra 300? ONLY 300? WHY WOULD SOMEONE NOT DO THAT? THE WHOLE INSTALLATION HAS TO BE OVER 10K AN EXTRA 300 TO ENSURE YOU DONT FUCKING DIE IS NOTHING? HOW DO PEOPLE CHEAP OUT ON THE CHEAPEST AND MOST IMPORTANT THINGS???????
@@finkyfamboni4333 It's a lot cheaper when you're first building your house/shop to make these changes. After the house/shop is built it would probably cost around $2500 to have the pad tore out and the new pad poured. Still, $2500 is cheaper than losing a limb, becoming paralyzed, or losing your life.
That’s a little overkill lol.
I don’t understand why the column bases have such a small footprint. I would never get under one of those things regardless of concrete thickness. You’re relying on those anchors which could pull through or fail regardless. They should use 4 posts or have a large enough base under the 2 posts so that the thing could stand on its own with a vehicle on board.
Civil Eng. here, I about had a heart attack when you said it was ok for 4inch thick concrete, glad you didnt go with that. also you might want to give the concrete coating of Epoxy, PU or MMA flooring to stop oil, degreasers and other toxic crap from corroding your concrete, I have actually seen that stuff get under the lifts, break down the concrete and cause the lifts to destabilise , also might be worth putting some Silicon around the lifts base.
Thanks for the advice!
My bend pak 10 k calls for 4 1/4" minimum 3000 psi.
Zack better read this
@@mitchdenner9743 do you like going with the minimum??? Really?
@@roberts5118 actually I'm an overkill guy. Just stating the fact of what the manufacturer calls for, not what i did. DB.
Coming back and watching this video I'm SO glad we did the new concrete. The 6:36 mark is scary how easy that concrete broke and scary how thin it was! WHOOOOOO!!! HOOOOOO!!!
yah look like a cheap slab job, did it even have rebar?
@briansmobile1 Just now watched a video. Noticed that when car was lifted in the end, it looked like one side(that closer to lift control panel) of the car is lower. Difference can be seen by shadows under the tires. Curious if that was noticed later and fixed or that is not a problem?
I'm happy you went with thicker concrete. Dangerous having a two post on thin concrete. When you said 4" I cringed.
should have concreted the bolts.
You mean chemical bond?
Maybe he meant should have installed the bolts while the concrete was wet so no need to drill?
Just not sure why he attached it to my comment instead of making his own. 🤣
4 inches is perfectly fine for a basic two post lift. We sell and install lifts where i work.
My buddy bought a used lift, no instructions. I came across your video and we greatly appreciate you taking the time to film your project. Getting a visual with commentary from you both was a tremendous help!
Here in Europe the requirement for these types of installations is typically 20cm (just under 8 inches) of concrete so it's really good that you got a thicker slab. Safety is important, so sometimes you've just have to bite the bullet and get it done properly.
A lot depends on what the PSI of the concrete is. My floor was poured 4" but extra heavy concrete (higher PSI). My contractor knew I would istall a lift someday so he made sure it was poured correctly. Also has double rebar and steel screen. Now, if the lift will finally get here...
Glad I watched this video and saw how uneven your original slab was. I was going to "chance" it too, but now, NO WAY. My future saved life thanks you.
Being a lazy critter with experience setting bottom bolts on towers up to 200' tall, the one thing I would have done differently is to make a one piece plywood template of the footprint of the two (pillars perfectly spaced and aligned of course) and used that as a jig to suspend J-bolts in the wet concrete - voila, done.
Not criticizing - just suggesting for anyone watching the video and thinking of a new floor under their new lift.. Also, an existing floor can have openings cut where the pillars will stand, excavate and pour new footings for the pillars - with the J-bolts jigged into position - for less money than a complete new floor.
After seeing the bend of the lift arms under your lightweight pickup I will be ordering a 4 post with track jacks for lifting my one-ton diesel pickups.. Half a lifetime as an engineer in heavy industrial manufacturing plants has taught me the hard way that, if something mighta possibly, sorta, coulda happened (no matter how unlikely) it will. It's only a question of when.
A 4 post lift is great for vehicle storage, but not for vehicle maintenance. For every job, there's a correct tool. A lightweight 2 post lift isn't the best choice for heavy diesel pickups, but the answer isn't to go to a 4 post, the answer is to upsize the list to a 12k or just buy a better lift. I use a Mohawk 10k 2post lift for my 8000 pound Ram pickup, and its rock steady
Absolutely DO NOT cut openings in the floor and pour new footings where the lift pillars will stand. Your J-bolt idea isn't bad if you can lift the pillars into the air and drop them over the bolts sticking out if the concrete, but to tell someone that has too thin if a concrete pad to simply cut openings where the lift pillars will stand and excavate and pour new thicker footings only under the pillars is completely unsafe and ridiculous to save money. I don't know where you got your engineering degree but I sure as hell wouldn't be working under THAT lift! You need a complete new floor there's no way around it. The entire floor slab is where you get the strength. Simply cutting holes in thin concrete and putting the lift posts on thick stilts is the stupidest and most ridiculous advice I've ever heard. It will undoubtedly topple over. I have NO degree in engineering and that's my advice.
@@roberts5118 it's obvious that you have no degree, Column footings are used everyday and since the Romans.
@@TT-hq1hl it's obvious you have no understanding of the center of gravity and force of gravity applied to the column of the vehicle lift. So apparently since you know all about the Romans making column supports you know that they'll work for supporting columns for a vehicle lift. I guess you and the Romans know more than the Lift manufacturer! Lmao I love people that have no fucking clue what they're talking about like you
@@TT-hq1hl tell the ambulance people about the Romans and their column footings as they're pulling your crushed body out from under a toppled lift because you thought you new how to support it properly.. "well the Romans built columns like this I thought it would work lol I have a degree.. not sure why this collapsed.. guess I was wrong.." lol good luck buddy hope your education helps you out with some common sense
Dudes !!! I'm a General Contractor and I'm building a pole barn in the back. Your video answered every single question I had about the lift, the concrete and how the lift was assembled and functioned. The dolly was an awesome idea, my back thanks you in advance. Since I'm pouring the slab I have no thickness issues but was wondering how thick to go. I'm gonna go 12" thick and roll with 8" x 3/4" Sleeve Anchors I think. Great video! Thanks!
Not to say this was an easy thing by any means but this was honestly much simpler than I expected. I'd like to do this one day. Thanks for the inspiration!
Why am I seeing so many lift installation videos recommended to me all of a sudden? So glad this guy seems to go about it much better/safer than the last 2 I've watched!
Nice, very nice!
I would add that for anyone, if you are replacing your concrete slab, to lay a 600mm x 300mm x 10mm thick MS steel plate under the location of the columns, embed in and flush with the concrete (made it dead level - very easy to do as can be tapped mm here or there).
That totally destresses the area (UDL vs point load) under column, and will be full contact with column baseplate, so virtually every failure mechanism will be avoided.
Also do that if you have minimum concrete thickness, just grind down 10mm and epoxy under the plate to fill low points. It's all about maximising surface contact to spread the load.
AND it's way better than shimming - a practice that leads to more cracking failures from my experience.
If you can not put a steel plate down, and your column base plate (or the slab) is warped then grinding out a little concrete is still preferred, use the wet paint method to tell the high spots.
Note drilling holes through the 10mm steel plate - either making them align with concrete holes after is ok, but easier to put holes big enough for anchors to be drilled in concrete through the plate.
Glad to see someone actually pouring a new pad. Most people are afraid of spending the money on concrete. I would of installed actual anchors though and tied then into the rebar.
I don't own a truck nor even a car at the moment. Neither do I have a garage space. And I am certainly no car mechanic nor a wanna be Tim Taylor. Yet I still watched the entirety of this vid. If that is not an indication of compelling presentation, I don't know what is. Beers [or the beverage of your choice[ to you both!
Same here!!
Good call on that slab. Man, it was a disaster waiting to happen. You did the right thing. Do it once, do it properly, set for life !
Just installed one of these Atlas lifts like two weeks ago. It’s been working great
Went together like a big Lego.
FYI torque specs come with anchor kits. If the anchors came with the lift I'd just look up specs for same diameter anchor with reputable company like Hilti for example. Personally I would have poured 2 footings where the columns bolted down instead of redoing entire slab. Would have been cheaper & stronger IMHO. Been in contruction for 30+ years. Glad you mentioned you did allow concrete time to cure. 😎👍
It wouldn't have been much cheaper. Maybe $50 less concrete and a $100 less labor. And it most definitely wouldn't have been stronger. It doesn't take much more for the contractor to do one larger pad. Maybe 20 min more on the machine, and less small cuts of rebar. The holes for the rebar pins you would save in the middle of the big pad will be eaten up by the inside sides of the two small pads. It's minuscule.
After working in several rehabbed shop buildings and seeing many floors crack because of thin floors I've always told people when in doubt install a 4 poster, it doesn't require a thicker floor because it sits on 4 points and not dependent on a 2ft pattern of bolts to hold the weight. Especially if the car start rocking.
As far as the low ceiling, I've worked from computer chairs and used ratchet straps to lower transmissions & differentials from under low cars. When space is limited you need to think outside the box.
Brian: “good job making that decision”
Zach casually says, “ staying alive is important”
Funny story.
I'm an electrician..
We were wiring a brand new national tire company store.
The g.c. neglected to pour the required concrete for the commercial grade lifts.
X 8 garage bays.
He had to cut up some major concrete and dig down and repour all of the areas affected.
This was after the lift guys did exactly as you did and drilled through the slab.
Always follow specs!
I'm sure the marketing department asked the engineers, "what is the least you could get away with" and they answered something like, "well if you had some reeealy hard and well compacted ground and you had ultra hard concrete with lots of rebar in there, then you might be able to get away with 110mm". The marketing department rounded this down to 4 inches of course and boom, sales are through the roof.
Awesome video. When it comes to lifts, safety is paramount. 8 inches is perfect. 10 foot ceilings is great for sports cars. 12 foot minimum for trucks/vans.
The website specifies minimum 4" of 3000 psi concrete. The psi rating and amount of rebar make a huge difference as far as how thick it needs to be.
Many garage slabs are made with 2000 psi concrete and no real substrate. That would explain the 7" spec you mentioned. A cheaper solution to questionable concrete strength is to weld a 30" long by 14" wide 1/2" steel plate under the posts. That will spread the load and stresses out farther. Install the factory anchors as in the plan and add 8 more anchors in the new plate (4 on each side).
If you tear up and pour a new concrete floor, you have to wait 28 days for the concrete to cure before drilling any holes in it.
A handy tip for anyone installing concrete anchors in any situation is to avoid hitting the bolt with a hammer and possibly damaging the threads. Use the Hammer drill and set it to hammer and use the bit to drive the anchor into the concrete much easier.
Love the Tacoma with the heritage grill and that lift and tires.
I ran into a similar problem for one of the 2 posts for the Max-Jax lift I bought. I had a good 4" plus for 1 post, but the slab was about 3" for the other post and the shields would not grab. My solution was to cut out a 1' x 1' square of the existing slab, and dig down 1' to make a foundation to support that one post. I added a tic-tac-toe pattern of scrap re-bar pieces I got from a local job site. I was able to work the re-bar under the surrounding slab. A couple bags of Sakrete high strength 5000 Plus concrete mix and the problem was solved, albeit a bit overkill. Keep in mind that most garage slabs are poured using a frame made of 1" x 4" - which is actually 3/4" x 3-1/2", so the slab is likely to be closer to 3-1/2" thick. By the way, I have a 10' ceiling in my shop, and the Max-Jax is perfect for that application. I have lifted from a BMW Z3 to a Dodge Ram 1500, and much in between. A low ceiling means you can't stand under a vehicle. My lift came with a rolling seat that lets me scoot around under a vehicle with just enough head clearance. I've serviced a transmission, rebuilt a couple of front ends, several brake jobs, axles, etc. I would have avoided doing many of those t
asks without a lift!
When you installed the shims, the overall force, and hence the pressure will be on the area below the shims, not the whole lift pad, so the PSI value should be taken for area of the shim, not the pad..
Thanks for the Video! Got mine 2 weeks ago, and picked it up in Montreal (160miles from my place) and put it inside my 2007 GMC Savana van haha. Just gotta install it now...
Most residential garage floors will be poured 4", so plan on redoing the concrete if you are putting a 2 post lift.
I would like to say that something that has kept me coming back to your videos is the fact you could make multiple shorter videos for a project. But you choose to when you can see a project through!
I am installing one in my garage at this moment thanks for the advice
They make many glues that will make those bolts solid in the concrete and they are as strong as the concrete itself. It’s not cheap but it does work. I have used it on safe rooms in new house construction. If any of the bolts don’t hold go to your contractor supply and ask them.
Holy moly 😳 . As a pro installer you only needed 4x4 pads but props to going the extra mile. Great video
I have some cracks after installing my 2 post lift. I am very sure I didn't get the anchors down all the way before I tightened them. I was wondering if I could get away with simply replacing the anchors? Pound the old ones through and put new anchors in at full depth? Or if I fix it right and cut out and pour a new slab do you really think 4x4x6 inches deep is fine?
You can pound them threw. You can use a anchor, epoxy if your anchors pull up. Make sure the holes are clean
WOW! seriously what a great how to on the actual lift i was interested in purchasing. as a side note those toggle or red head style bolts have a tensile strength of at least 180ksi unless you could get them into bending which you can't with those base plates you could never fail those bolts doing their jobs, the concrete would way before fail and break up. then re-doing the floor on your build as all have said "4" is at best sketchy" then finding how thin your slab was was a no go, also most garage slabs are not properly rebared to be strong enough to begin with thicker or not. the overhead trussed lifts makes a big difference on how those uprights load, and bow in even when you center the CG over the uprights. you see the flex of the uprights allot more without that overhead style cross member lifts but those you cant use in low ceiling heights period. i really appreciate the no hype no attitude you and your friends bring watching you guys work and do the job along with the explanations of what is going on. most others hype and carry on until i have to stop watching them or suffer though hoping they will actually tell you something other than allot of mis or no information just look at me, am i cool or what? again big thanks really appreciate you and what you presented here.
Always give the car a shake from the back after you lift it off the ground a few inches to insure that the weight of the vehicle is properly balanced
I second that. It’s common practice at our shop and it’s surprising how many times a vehicle has had to be reset
Liking this channel getting a bit more attention again!- also congratulations to you and Cambry on not a wheelchair! Fantastic idea❤️
What's the point if you can't stand underneath the vehicle. That was a fail.
Hahahaha ik right!? 🤦🏻♂️
Better than risking it on jacks.
I'd much rather crouch under a vehicle with nothing in the way instead of laying on my back with Jack stands next to me. Also when doing exhaust work or even any welding the extra height sure as hell helps.
Way better when install transmissions and exhaust and brakes and many more. Excellent Job, men around the USA dream of a lift that makes working on a automobile easier.
I guess use a chair. But to go and pay big money on the lift and new concrete without being able to stand. I would re work the roof to be able to stand.
Hell Yeah Brian and Zack together?! They're like my favorite youtubers!
The 4" vs. 7" issue created a ton of suspense throughout the video
i got the same lift. supposed to have a plastic tray under the ramp to keep the hydraulic lines and cables separate. If you dont have that its going to wear through the hoses. Talks about it in the instructions and all baseplate lifts have them. Also the two nuts arent supposed to have the washer between. Thats is just for shipping. Washer goes under first nut. second is lock nut.
What's the point of that lift in THAT garage
He already had to remove old concrete... 🤔 wouldn't it be better to go all the way down and do it this way? Unless next episode will be all about lifting garage ceiling 😁
@@obywatelwu5515 should have concreted the bolts.
Still makes the car a lot easier to work on. Even if you can't stand under it you can use a creeper or chair to sit while working
@@Cutlerylover4life1 Indeed it does 😄💪
I am sure 100% he didn't install the lift and go through all that pain of concrete and installing the lift just so that he could go under the truck to fix(which hardly happens)
thanks for the video, I'm in the process of getting one started. have the slab and carport made already at 15ft high and 5 1/2 inch slab and now in the process of getting electricity installed. this video helped alot, Thanks
i always find these 2 post lifts without a top piece sketchy. They probably won't fail but if the tops are connected it adds so much strength
I used these type of lifts for years here in CA without issue. Having some heavy-duty bar going across to add strength would really limit what you could do with a car. Normally the car or truck can be above those posts. If there is any type of bar going across, that is your height limit now no matter what. Really wouldn't do all that much anyway. These type of lifts are quite safe so long as you mount a car/truck on them correctly and is in 100% working order so it doesn't fall off the lift. Even then the lift is not going anywhere, just the vehicle. These days I no longer work on cars. I work at a Food Factory and have installed a number of Industrial machines and used quite a few of these anchors.
The important part of these lifts is the thickness of the cement. I remember at work when we were getting a new 2-post lift they also cut out and pored a much thicker pad for it. It's still there and been in use for around 20 years. A bar on top wouldn't do anything to stop a tower from falling over because of too thin of cement, or anchor failure. I haven't seen any anchors fail before. I'm using Stainless ones normally. They are also going through tile before going into the cement. It's a washdown environment and lots of chemicals used and RUST is something to avoid. I also use some type of silicon in the hole and around the anchor to help keep the water out.
Use your brain to figure out why the tops can't be connected.
The top bar makes the lift much more stable and most vehicles can be raised full height with a top bar.
@@xenonram most lifts have a top cross bar.
Excellent decision tearing up that pad and pouring a new one. That definitely paid off.
I would recommend taking those concrete anchors for the columns up to 150ft pds as my dad is a certified lift installer and he always puts them at 150ft pds no matter the make of the lift. Again just a recommendation but overall a very nice install. Also they make an over head cut off kit to keep you from going too high when lifting a larger vehicle with low ceilings.
The torque requirement for anchors is specified by the manufacturer based on the anchor material and pullout resistance of the concrete. It has nothing to do with the lift itself. A 3/4" wedge anchor in 4000psi concrete will pull out at about 12000 Lbs of tension. The weak part is the concrete and not the anchor. Torquing up to 150 ft lb will exceed that max pullout capacity of the concrete. You don't typically torque wedge anchors the same as you would a bolt or nut. Those 3/4 anchors are typically torque to about 110 ft lb. If your dad is going to 150 ft lb with 3/4" wedge or chemical anchors then he's doing it wrong.
@@OU81TWO This is true. Rotary 2 post lifts for example call for exactly 110 ft lbs for the 3/4" anchors and then 60 ft lbs "maintanence" torque every month.
Man...I just opened a garage and I was thinking to order some of these lifts and installing them myself...very useful. Now I know what to expect. Thanks 😊
13:32 Easy there Brian, we don't want to know how you like your hose.
I like mine loose, floppy and damp.
Good observation😄... Was looking for that comment!.
Just did a pour for our shop build, we did 2 4 x4 x 14 inch deep footers for the lift ( a 10 k 2 post , Rotary brand) the rest of the slab is 5 inches, a little overkill is never a bad thing when installing a lift.
Zach, this is way late but one thing I'm curious about is why you didn't put the anchors in the wet concrete and drilled them in instead. I imagine that placing them into the wet concrete would have been stronger overall or am I wrong about that? Or was there another reason?
That’s not how wedge anchors are intended to be used. Additionally, it would be very difficult to get them set in the proper position AND set the lift post on top. These posts are massively heavy.
@@coreyscarrepairs Forget my last comment, my brain is foggy... So, putting them in wet concrete would necessitate different types of anchors. You're right, you can't use wedge anchors in wet concrete and I wasn't suggesting that. But there's anchors that are meant for wet concrete that would easily be used instead.
As for alignment. This is something that's done all the time. The easiest would be to use a steel base plate that gets embedded into the concrete too that has the anchors going through it.
Lastly, these are meant to roll into place, and there's play in the anchor holes, so you'd just roll it into place and then angle it vertical with the anchors going into the holes as it gets lifted vertical.
Thats good, i like how you drilled the rebar into the existing slab.
I like the drive on 4 posts lifts better, with the rolling jack to take the wheels off.
Having a house with a garage with a lift is my dream. Hell... Even a garage with a bedroom in it I'd be happy lol
You gotta have your priorities. The nice can come with time, the space for what you love is neccesary!
Regarding the concrete thickness: Another option may be to obtain a 1" thick plate of steel to dimensions that would double the square inches of the footing so your anchored to twice ot more of the floor and it distributes the load over twice or more of the foot: so the uplifting force on the bolts are spread or a much larger footing
Exactly. When I buy the hoist I'm looking at , I want them to lengthen the footing of the towers by 100%...and if they won't, then I will have the footings made up out of plate and attach them to the concrete, and then weld or bolt the towers to the plates.
I would recommend purchasing a truck adapter kit for your lift if available as well as adding a limit switch to your hoist to prevent any accidents from occurring.
The basic fact that you stopped and did the safe thing with the concrete, are wearing a mask for the dust and hearing protection made my sub right away. I know your work is getting done the right way.
18:30 Jerry says it has taken them 2 days to complete it.. But the whole process was more than 2 months...Lol, 😆😆😆
It's always cool seeing 2 of my favorite youtubers working together in a video
Is that a Humvee at 16:55! Would love a video about that.
That old conrete pad looks like
What we use to call a rat cap in a crawl space.
Im happy you went for safety .
Zack is so environmentally conscious that he reused the JerryRigEverything intro!
Thank you guys great video and appreciate the time that yall took to do this! Will be putting one in the shop next week!
Looks cool.
Yes
Yess!!! Love your videos!!
yes
Bruh
WHAT'S INSIDE? FAMILY hi
Now I know what project you're talking about 😅
The electric hmmwv conversion!
4:35 Is that the new project?
oooooooh good catch
I don't get it what is the new project
also see @16:51
While I don't believe you have an issue with the hardware of your lift, I don't exactly agree with your interpretation of the PSI rating of the concrete. Concrete does not have the same PSI rating in compression as it does in tension. In fact it is radically different.
You can compress the hell out of concrete, but you can't pull on concrete with nearly the same force.
So while the expanders at the bottom of the concrete anchors have several aspects to them, as they expand outward (compression - good), the force pulling "up" on the concrete is partially in tension (bad).
This is one of the factors in why there is a minimum thickness requirement for these kinds of lifts. Excellent choice in replacing the slab.
;)
17:15 what a turntable ahahhaha 😂
3.2.1- Contact is the secret, is the moment, when everything happens... LOL.. Love it!
"Staying alive is kind of important"
- Zack, 2020
I like Zack, he doesnt cut corners. Perfectionist like me
Brian doing the heavy lifting like a champ! With Hitman's style of hair.
In all seriousness though, is he Ok? kind of got worried about him when he shaved his head like that.
All bald people have cancer, right?
I Am A Duck Not necessarily, but whatever the case may be, We always wish nothing but the best for him!
I installed a Rotary 2 post in my shop this spring and had the same concrete situation. I opted to do (2) 4x7ft pads that are 12” deep and also have about 12” small footing in the center.
"better safe than dead". Lol
Too bad they didn't compact the soil first.
A lot of contractors are lazy when building houses and throw concrete over with out compacting, and that's where you see over time the drive way settle. But the garage hopefully was poured as part of foundation and they usually compact for that.
I love these all-in-one videos. No need to wait and be a scatterbrain
My dream is to have a lift one day. The height of that garage is pretty short to take advantage of a lift though it’d say
What a pain! Good video bro. I excavated 2x3x12 for my lift under the slab before concrete in my shop for a 16,000 lift for safety reasons. Big O chunk of concrete lol
8:21 something Tesla in the background 😳😁
Looks like a power wall!
Rohan Anderson yh
Probably a busted power wall. Seems to be the fate of most of them.
@@xenonram "busted" except it looks like it just arrived and they're unpacking it?
Good DIY video. I've been researching lifts a lot. Yes the 10k lifts that I read about do require more than 4" of 3000psi concrete. I'm looking at 9k lifts and they call for 4" 3000 psi concrete. I called my concrete guy and he said my floor is 4" thick and 3500psi concrete with rebar reinforcement. Hope i don't drill into the rebar 👀
I installed my Atlas lift back in March and I love it. I’m in a wheelchair and I love doing all the maintenance work on both my car and my wife’s car. But I went with a four post lift because quite frankly two post lifts scare the hell out of me. I feel much safer being under my four post lift over a two post lift. My garage ceiling is only nine feet tall but that’s not a problem with me. I don’t need the lift to raise my vehicles very high because I’m in a wheelchair. This means I can easily roll around underneath my vehicles and do what I need to do without any height issues. I posted a short video of my lift if anyone is interested in seeing it. th-cam.com/video/vAJeDqJQ758/w-d-xo.html
Rotary type post lift doesn't have that annoying hump across the middle. That hump gives that cringe moment when coming in, when the wheels hit the hump.. a few things goes through my mind.
Did I pick up all the tools left on the floor?
Oh, it's just the hump. Easy on the throttle...Easy... Easy... don't want it to launch into the wall.
Rotary works on a worm screw drive, so it doesn't need to go up a bit to unlatch the safeties before coming down. Which is kinda important when you have low ceilings and trying to use that last inch of space.
Scissor lift are the best, it disappears into the floor when not in use. Lights on the ceiling is broken? Just ride the scissor lift up.
You could have just cut and poured small footers with the 7” thick concrete
What specifications would you recommend for someone doing to footings option? Looking to help a friend install one on an existing pad but would like to make sure it is safe. Thank you!
Kyle Burraston According to some reps that I spoke to they said 5’X5’ squares (with the posts on center) at 7” deep, 3500 psi concrete. I would rather go a little bit larger though and pour completely across. It won’t cost that much more.
I always recommended a rectangle cutout 6 inches wider than than the three outside faces of the pad that ran completely contiguous between the posts. So many people skip the step of tying back into the existing slab with rebar, and one side would settle causing the lift to twist if its an overhead. This one being a baseplate isn't free from those issues just because it isn't connected at the top of the posts. If you have a settling issue after a solid slab pour, you can simply disassemble the lift and fix the pad, the lift won't be damaged. If you do two pier's, you only have a small gap between of existing concrete. Might as well clear that out, it's not much more money and your already going through all the work.
Came here looking for this.
Why in the world would you not install footers tied into the slab and studs for the lifts?
Wedge bolts for a lift? Yeah, that's 'standard' and the web is full of examples of how these things pull out over time.
Hell, I'd connect the footers with a beam just to be sure. The additional cost in nothing relative to your life
yup check the torque on the bolts every year as well. I know its been a few months since install but in commercial projects, yearly special inspection should be done by the owner on anchors. With wedge anchors, these are 3/4 Diameter, probably some Chinese BS non the less, should be torqued down to 110lbs per sf. If unsure, check the ESR document for that particular anchor. Also with wedge anchors there is specific spacing between the c/c of each anchor as well as edge distance. If you were using a Powers SD1 anchor, I wouldn't used a wedge anchor if you were withing 16" of an expansion joint, which maybe you are not. You could go down to 11" at a minimum though but its your choice. If it was me, I would use b7 rod and a adhesive anchor either Hilti say "hit200 or powers ac200. You would also want to have the anchors spaced a minimum of 6" apart from each other. Just becuase you have 8 holes in the base plate does not mean you have to use them all, normally you would want to use the extremities and if you were trying to hit that minimum edge distance you could go in a hole. More anchors does not mean more holding power, it could in fact reduce the effectiveness of the anchor.
Next video: How to raise the roof on my garage.
Yup...... just grab the sawzall and go to town!!!!
Thanks for making this video, very helpful when I installed my symmetrical two post hoist. Something I wish I thought about was length of the arms. I chose a hoist with two piece arms that can't be shortened enough to reach the lift points on my short wheel based cars. Just a tip for people doing their research.
"We are converting from metric to imperial." .... WHY? You love doing fractions?
Cos they are Americans
Metric tape measures aren't as readily available as imperial ones in the states, it sounds like the instructions were metric so instead of going out and shopping for a metric tape measure they just converted to imperial and used what they had
@@fakename287 I work in the Oil Industry here in Canada and i still remember the first time as a first year Apprentice that my journeyman gave me a measurement in Imperial and i went whaaaa? (Since we only learn Metric in school now) Luckily we all carry dual measurement tapes since we deal with both Imperial/Metric stuff on a day to day basis.
Because we are capable of doing fractions (do them every day) . For real fun naval architect plans are in 1/8" dimensions. AN bolts in aircraft have their own rules. I also can get by in drams, gills, pints, gallons, hogsheads, bushels and barrels for volume - as well as ten yard loads of gravel. And grains, ounces, pounds, tons (long and short) as well as kilograms. Also unbothered when faced with watts, joules, kPa, Nm, inch pounds, foot pounds, and on and on. Conversions are a way of life if you are doing anything in the science or engineering fields. Now being flexible I would have simply used a couple of metric rulers (already have them) as you are suggesting. All the home improvement stores, hardware stores, auto parts stores in the US sell metric rulers these days.
@David Bryant outside of the US, yes. Inside the US, not so much.
Great video - thanks for taking the time to share the install / your perspective. 👍🏼💪
Zack, you sure this wasn't meant to be a main channel video! You added the intro!
Yeah it’s always been this intro!
I had this on in the background and thought "... I recognize that guys voice in the background..." realizing it was infact, Brian!
Knowing my luck... if i drilled for the anchors... i wouldof end up hitting rebar🙃
Hi, good call on pulling the trigger and replacing the concrete pad. For future reference 6 inches of concrete is a bare minimum for this type of lift. Although there exists a chemical anchor which can be used if your concrete is less thick.
But again there is a bare minimum of about 4 inches. If you use this chemical anchor, simply drill a size large hole and deeper. Longer anchors to push into the chemical solution will also work better.
Source: I sell and install lifts for workshops
Congrats on your new lift
9:40 how big is your head to be able to keep your ear protection on your head like that?? why is my head so small ?what's wrong with me? Small brain? haha
If you can't keep them on like that then the earmuffs are way too big for your head and won't protect your hearing properly.
Interesting video. I'm hoping to install one of these in my new place not long after I get settled in.
I'm not an installer, nor do I claim ANY sort of expertise or even any experience with installing these lifts, but I one thought about your installation...
In the interest of economy, but still being safe, I wondered why you tore out and replaced the entire section of floor instead of just a strip of the floor, or even just a couple squares where the uprights go...
For rebar to add exstra strength one square can seddle to easily u see how they put rebar in the sides of the slab that was still there it’s to add more integrity
Zack: "3.5 - 4.0 earthquakes... ooo those are big"
Me, a Californian: "We sleep through 5.0s" 😂😂
you should be a teacher, so much patience and so descriptive!
Good job
You can work under lamborghinis, probably.
Oh wow. Suprised to see Brian there. Awesome collab!