WATCHING U FRM LOUISVILLE, KY...SEE U HEADED TO BG, HOME OF CORVETTE MUSUEM...ALSO CHECKOUT THE NEW BUCKEY'S GAS STATION (GET THE BRISKET SAMMIE, THANK ME NOW). GOD BLESS SAFE TRIP AND MAHALO TO U AS WELL!
Great way to do ad placement, tbh. The way you integrated the ad into what you were doing made it entertaining in a way that's the exact opposite of "let's stop everything this video is about in order to tell you about this unrelated product..." Kudos for that.
Anyone saying the wood can't hold, needs to look at load span charts for lumber. A single 2x12 can carry 2160 lbs on a 12 foot span and still fall within code guidelines. Over 2000 lbs sitting on two small contact points. His ramps are not spanned, are triple 2x12s, and are fully supported sitting on the ground. Meaning it only comes down to the compressive strength of the wood(which is ridiculously high at over 10,000 psi for yellow pine) and the strength of the fasteners and glue, which are also ridiculously high. He's basically made solid logs to park vehicles on, and none of his vehicles are capable of collapsing them.
Exactly, it will hold the load. The only thing is designing it strong enough so it cannot rack itself laterally and collapse. Which looks like they have that covered.
ive set the front end of a kw 900 on a block built just like his 16k steer axle and a cummins 15l didnt budge if anything it pushed the ground down lol
Hey brother, buy some of those retracting wheels people use to make workbenches mobile! Attach them to the large center sections, and when your done, stack the smaller pieces on top and roll them all into a corner. Beats the heck out of all the back work lugging them across the shop!
Can I just say that I love how much you include your kids in the video and your work?! These boys are already very familiar with the garage and the shop and obviously have a great dad. WE NEED MORE FATHERS LIKE THESE!!!
To the people commenting, How do ya figure this is unsafe?? Those are solid and just fine, y’all have houses built on less foundation than these per foot. Relax, he’s doin just fine. Love the ramps!!
thank you. I am so surprised (still) that people open their mouths to speak as fact with no knowledge. I placed 2 16" lam beams across a 19' span when making two rooms one. 12"'s would have done the job, but I went with 16"s casue they were available. Do you know what the difference is? I could park my LEXUS ES that I drove at the time in the center and not bow my ceiling. Wood is NO JOKE.
Yeah, an engineered wood structure can be unbelievably strong and flexible if needed. I don’t think they use metal I-beams in homes anymore, it’s all wood I-beams. It’s all been tested over 100s of years. Those ramps can support 3 times that weight if not more. Big trees weigh many tons and that’s all above ground, wood is inherently strong.
100% there are cribbing supports made of crappie wood than that, that hold up, to over 80K pounds, and also with loads of people flying through the air at 60mph on carnival rides.
Yep. I made a set over 15 years ago, and some people on the forums were doubting the strength. As long as you design it right, you’ll be just fine as I was. Never a doubt it my head. Although, if I had the unlimited garage space as in the video, I would have made them wider (easier to drive on) and a platform on the front so you can stand and work under the hood if needed.
@@chupacabra3331 my only question is can the individual vertical boards supporting the load the long way pull the screws out of the short boards in between from the car being rocked side to side? I’m thinking with several construction screws and construction glue, not a problem at all
I love it, throw some grip skateboard tape on the ramps. Probably need just some strips no need to cover the whole thing just something to combat slipping when the tires are wet. Also paint them so they look cool as you will I am sure have them in the shop for awhile.
Great build! Definitely waaaay overbuilt, but the best way for safety's sake. I would recommend putting something between both sides that links them together. I can see them possibly sliding on the concrete.
I built a set similar to this about 15 years ago to work on and under 1 ton diesel trucks. 2x12 down the middle and sides as well as across the top with a bump and stop for the front tire location. Gorilla glue and triple coated deck screws are your friends. 15 years later and hundreds of oil changes, suspension jobs, exhaust work, transmission services, etc.. still going strong. The removable center section is critical for making these useful. I pined them together using door hinges and large nails as the hinge pins so they remove easily.
For the people saying these ramps aren't safe what exactly about them makes them inferior to those $30 mold plastic injected ramps you bought at Walmart to change your oil? Also look at it like this the average 3 bedroom house roof is about 5500 lbs so if it's good enough to hold the roof of your house up then it for sure strong enough to hold a 3500 lbs vehicle a couple of feet in the air
The best ramps I've ever used are the ones I built. Your ramps will hold up a tank. The Southern Pine No. 2 - Design Compression Perpendicular to Grain is 565 pounds per square inch. Your ramp has 3 qty. 2x12s supporting half of a vehicle. :: 3 x 1.5 in. x 565 psi = 2543 pounds per inch of length ramp. The weight it can support is not the entire length of the ramp, but the length of the ramp under the contact area of the tires. You can add some additional length to the contact area length because the wood does spread out the load toi the ramp support, the garage floor.
I doubt they would hold up a tank. I had one of my workers remove tank service ramps about three feet off the ground and about a hundred feet long at a former Army base. Seven strands of 1 1/2 inch rebar buried in about a foot of concrete on each side.
Stand them up and a dolly would make them easy to store in a corner! I love the idea man. Definitely gives you clearance to comfortably work under it. And you could add jack stands to make it better if you wanted to! Great job! Tell the city to hurry up with your electrical plans!!!
Construction looks solid but I would suggest, as added safety, to build some sort of cross connection to stabilize the two ramps from potentially sliding apart ( laterally away from each other) as you're driving the car onto them...after the car is centered and secure, can then remove the cross bracing similar to how the ramp center sections are removable
As an automotive technician, alignments are always done by adjusting the camber first then caster and lastly toe. Also, you start with adjusting the rear first then go to the front.
The most motivating video and your energy is awesome to show how to make a custom DIY ramp plus to detail what you do for a wheel alignment, awesome video bro 🤙
I love watching videos made by folks who have too much free cash! some of the ideas are awesome, and can be scaled down in $$ for the average back yard knuckle buster! Keep up the GREAT work!
I seen you out at LSfest. My son noticed you before i did. He wanted to say hi but with all the people and everything going on he lost sight of you before we could head your way. We made the trip from south Louisiana ourselves! 11 hours in my 13, CTS V, manual transmission, sedan. Good times!
Cool idea. I made some 12” wide individual ramps for my truck but they are solid wood, no cavities, and they are half as high. Works great and peace of mind being 100% solid wood. Works so well a friend wanted a set too. Just need space to store them and they are super heavy.
Just wanted to let you know I really like the way you did that sponsor part of the video, it was really nicely meshed into the video and didn't feel like an obnoxious ad read like most of them, as a result. Great stuff!
Nice job brother! I have a set of Quick Jacks and love them. Now I have a couple 4 post and a couple two post lifts in my shop, oil changes and maintenance to include cleaning is really easy now!!
Check out homemade tilting ramps!! These are awesome if you have the room!! Pretty much big ramps, you drive up onto and then it tilts, where a arm/brace stops it, I've seen these ramps made 5 feet tall great for working underneath
You can add gate or door hinges at the edge of each block to hold them together. Bolt the hinges onwhile the ramps are in place, then pull the hinge pin and take the ramps apart or to pull those inner blocks for access.
Before I had seen this video, I had need for my Nissan Ultima to be raised up and level. I built smaller versions of what you have with separate ramps front and back, so I can place the ramps under the car and drive up all four ramps at the same timeworked great. I really appreciate your video. Thank you.
One thing that might help, it will add a little weight but get the tops sprayed with LINE-X. I will help with grip plus it will help if you get fluid on the top. To move them around just go get a couple of the furniture dollies from Harbor Freight and stack them up then you can wheel them around super easy. 4 dollies 2 stacks and you are set.
If the ramps were $3,000 and you went to Lowe's for all this lumber you probably were better off just getting the $3,000 ramps I would imagine. HAHAHAHA😂 Lumber prices these days are INSANE (prices for anything really) Thanks for the fantastic video, I absolutely love your channel. Take care, Aloha ~Jonny5🥁
Cut some hand holds in them to make them easier to grab. You could also run a 1x2 along the outside edge to let you know if you’re getting to close to the edge.
I always put 1/16th of tow in since after the car is on the ground and rolling forward, pressure flays the bearings/tires out a bit. I feel like it handles slightly better.
I don’t know why you don’t buy a portable, 4-post lift, for your shop. Wildfire lifts makes a good product that will fit in your shop, and it comes with casters so you can move it around inside, or outside your shop.
You can get a good second hand 2 post lift that can handle 4ton for about 1k euro, this amount of wood probably costs close to that, while achieving less flexibility, you can't even take the wheels off and service the brakes for example. for example A standard SLS 4x30 (cm) cost about 40 euro for 5m, this project needs probably about 15 of them. That will cost you 600euro, which will set you back 60% of the cost of a proper second hand 2 post lift. on top of that comes about a day of labour @ 60euro/h that would cost you about another 400 euro, this just depends on how you value your own labour.
I only had the need and room for two ramps. I just bought one solid beam. And cut it in half then at an angle. Not the prettiest in the world but they’re way past 20 years old now. Don’t know why you couldn’t just add boards to the side to make it wider. But the weight oh lord .
Great video!! Thanks.. As regards the time-out. The gauge holds the current reading until you zero it out again. No need to zero out again if it times out.
I have racked my brain looking for a solution for my lowered street trucks in a very height challenged shop (i.e. no lift possible) and believe you have answered my prayers! Thank you for sharing my friend! New subscriber here and so glad I found your channel. 😎
i would put some sort of removable bump stop like you did up front, so that in the event it accidently rolled back it wouldnt fall off. your safe and the car would be safe.
When in doubt always always reinforce your build, you did an amazing great job of the build, especially with the latching of the sections so they do not move or separate from the others and as for your build strength you could park probably 3 trucks on them before any issues why because you had mega braced and did extra cross bracing, and as for the shop not doing the alignment is because YOU put the kit in and they didn't and because you did such a good job it pissed them off and refused to do it, I see it all the time lol, anyhow sir great job on build beautiful vet, and nice shop !
Cool ramp the only thing missing on them are hand hold on the side I thing it will make them easier to move them around the shop and stack them but cool build
Aloha. I have a great suggestion. Cut out Pallet Jack Slots in those lifts and get a hand held pallet jack to move them around. Or go big and get one of the electric stand on pallet jacks. "Eddie Would Go"
I 100% agree with you. This is one of my very favorite family friendly channels on TH-cam. This guy is definitely a role model to be looked up to. Take care.
I had a race car back in the day. The alignment shops all said no, except one. They used a lift then slid the rack under the car. They were great. But it was an hour drive.
i made much smaller wooden ramps that are 2x10s stack on top of one another with a 45 degree cut for the tire to climb up on. The beauty with this setup is I can add more levels if I wanted too. Im satisfied with mine the way I built them. They mimic the traditional car ramps from the store and I made 4 of them. They only down side to having wooden ramps like this is weight. Even with handles I've added, they each weigh about 50 lbs. I also had a problem where the ramp would slide under load when driving off or at the top when stopping. All I did was get a padded rubber mat and screwed that to the bottom of each and that solved the problem. I think I bought 10 2x10s before covid so to make the same ones today would cost me close to double.
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I've done the same. Wish I built them years ago. I also built two different heights of wood cribbing which is so much easier dropping a gas tank. (posting on fem account)
Yellow pine has a compression rating of 8,470 lbs psi. You could park a fleet of semi trucks on top of that ramp. I would have gone with 2x8 sides and 2x12 tops. That would give you almost 9” of lift. Most commercial plastic/metal car ramps are 8” high. That would allow a shorter approach ramp. Since your not doing any sweeps or anything while doing the alignment, you should recheck your alignment after road test to see if it settled where you want it. Not pulling is not a sign of a correct alignment, just like a crown in the road can cause a pull in a perfectly aligned car.
as for the level why wouldn't you put the long side flush against the vertical post then just offset the measurement by 90 degrees. that would give you the best result
You can find the compression and load span specs for timber on the interweb. However for reference to crush a 2x4 you need about 16 tonnes of direct load. No car is going to weigh 16T on one corner. That's why I built wheel cribs out of 2x4 timbers. I also made them modular height wise so I could jack the front, put on first set, then jack the back, then raise both ends upto the next height. Timber is safer than steel as steel will bend. Think about it why do you think the haulage industry uses pallets.
Remember your house is not made of plastic but concrete and wood. If you think your car is heavy you should go look at the weight of your home. Wood has impressive compression strength in its weight ratio. The steel fasteners are there to handle tensile needs (highly rated storm winds). Yes your average car is about two tons. The compression strength of two 2x4s screwed together is much greater than 5000 lb/in*2 meaning it can easily hold the weight of your vehicle. Of course this takes into consideration the health of the wood. Eg it's not cracked, it's not rotten, it's not petrified, etc.
Some holes would make a good grab point for a lever bar, then you can slide some wheels under the big sections or do a flip wheel. Saving the back which never gets younger
I am so happy i came across this video i have those black walmart ramps and had them for YEARS. i want to have more room to work on my cars but didn't want to fork 3k for a lift and willing to have something like this! would probably do half the size but i want taller ramps than those short things are. Cheers!
A good way to make them lighter, would be to drill some holes in them. Say something like 2" or 3" holes. If you make 2 rows of them with same 2" or 3" space between them , there should still be plenty of support. You can leave the middle solid or just drill less holes in that one, say every other hole?
It looks like the level has a magnet built into the bottom side, maybe you could cut a section of angle iron and slap it to the bottom and the. Have a nice flat surface to but against the vertical bar?? Just a thought. I like the ramp/lift thingy, think I may make one thanks for the inspiration 👍🏻
The boards are sitting on concrete and not supporting a span so they can hold a considerable amount of weight. Just be careful they don’t get wet and start rotting from the bottom and lose their structural integrity.
Really like the car ramps I have some basic ramps I made years ago. I wish I had the space to make bigger ones like that. It’s really nice that you overbuild like that and now you can also roll a creeper under the car. Well done. I have a tool review channel. What do you think your favorite tool is for working on your cars or house?
Are you sponsored by tough built or just a fan of their products, I went and looked at your channel and it's tough built this and tough built that and tough built this... So, just curious.
Very cool idea i built a set of wood ramps for my Z4 to do oil changes the approach angle is stupid low. But when i go to do downpipes and upgrade the twin turbos i may have to build some box like this ive alwasy seen the stacked 2x4s but this seems way more stable for being under the vehicle for awhile.
Hope you had fun in Bowling Green at corvette festival. They were thinking 10,000 Corvettes. I didn’t go as I work 63+ hrs a week and am so tired by the end of the week.
Try some solar lights on the exterior and interior in addition to your future power lights. You'll be surprised how long the modern ones last as well as the brightness.
Even though I have used music in most of my very amateur videos as well, I have to agree with those who think properly shortened and edited videos are better off without music. At the very least they can be annoying if not distracting..
I think this is a really freaking cool channel. Considering that Sarge & me are about the same age, I think it would be cool to hang out with him and have an adult beverage with him while we shake our heads at you and your crazy ideas.
I really like this idea! Since you have an already flat and smooth work area, do you think adding castor wheels might help with the moving and arranging them? Once again, great idea 👍👍
Been to Bowling Green a couple times and did some hot laps with my ZL1 at NCM park. One of the best tracks out there. Looking forward to your video(s) on that trip.
You jacked the truck up and dropped it onto the ramps. That was your answer. Jack the vette up, put your spacer blocks under the wheels, lower the car onto the blocks. Do the front first and then the back. No, you would not be able to drive up onto it, but it would have taken a lot less material and time.
The suspension likely won't stay settled as needed doing it that way. Lifting one wheel at a time alters geometry and after done doesn't return to normal until the vehicle is moved and things can resettle. Would it half butt work probably well enough? Probably. Is it closest to proper procedure? Not at all.
After working in a shop for 7yrs+….i’m gonna call BS on the shop not being able to do the alignment. And i’ve had my fair share of dealing with aftermarket suspension components….lift kits and lowering kits. The tech. probably didn’t know how to make adjustments other than just a “toe-n-go”….which is all I knew before I was showed how to do a full four wheel alignment (adjusting caster, camber, and toe). Rust is a whole different story though
I’m failing to see why the shop wasn’t able to align the car when you apparently had no problem keeping all of the suspension the same… unless this was just a way to come out with a video for us on building some ramps.
@@bashamstaysbusy4193except he said “If a professional shop couldn’t get it in spec with an alignment could an overconfident DIYer do it with a tape measure”
Most likely liability. They don't want their asses sued or have to front the bill if something gets damaged or done wrong leading to property or personal damage. It's not a matter of can't its a matter of won't
That was going to be my question also .... But going through the replies on your comment, I totally understand now. "Can't verses Won't" Thanks for clearing this up guys 👍👍 Take care and be safe out there whenever you are.
Grand Idea, Thanks for sharing, for those that haven't buildt their garage yet, Put in a Pit, No hydraulics, no spotters(wives/kids/moms/dads),pets don't get in the way, and a better place to be than a dog house
I might have tested the first ones on the front of the truck where the engine is, but looks like it worked. Just incase you wanted to put the truck on them. :)
Thecway these ramps are built, they are titally safe. Safer than jack stands because if the wood fails, it gives you a warning through creaks and cracks. Jack stands with cast supports, can fail suddenly and catastrophically without warning. Niw quality jack stands used correctly and within their weight ratings ate fine, but using wooden members like this are totally fine. If you dont believe me, look up wooden cribbing. Im a firefighter with years of experience in Uban Search and Rescue. Woiden cribbing is used to hold ip tremendous weight in structural collapse scenarios, and wood is used to build shoring for partially collapsed structures.
Came here to say that this video started the rabbit hole of me subbing and watching the whole shop build process. Totally amazing! Completely off topic: don't know if you've answered it anywhere before, but what exactly is that black panel you had in the garage where you were recording the price list for the shop build?
Thanks for watching! If you’re referring to the board I write on, it’s actually just a dry erase board just in black. Bought it off Amazon a few years back.
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WATCHING U FRM LOUISVILLE, KY...SEE U HEADED TO BG, HOME OF CORVETTE MUSUEM...ALSO CHECKOUT THE NEW BUCKEY'S GAS STATION (GET THE BRISKET SAMMIE, THANK ME NOW). GOD BLESS SAFE TRIP AND MAHALO TO U AS WELL!
Great way to do ad placement, tbh. The way you integrated the ad into what you were doing made it entertaining in a way that's the exact opposite of "let's stop everything this video is about in order to tell you about this unrelated product..." Kudos for that.
Machine
Anyone saying the wood can't hold, needs to look at load span charts for lumber.
A single 2x12 can carry 2160 lbs on a 12 foot span and still fall within code guidelines. Over 2000 lbs sitting on two small contact points.
His ramps are not spanned, are triple 2x12s, and are fully supported sitting on the ground. Meaning it only comes down to the compressive strength of the wood(which is ridiculously high at over 10,000 psi for yellow pine) and the strength of the fasteners and glue, which are also ridiculously high.
He's basically made solid logs to park vehicles on, and none of his vehicles are capable of collapsing them.
100%
I didn't see your comment before replying to one. We build houses on 2x12 beams. If they hold houses up they'll hold a car or truck
Exactly, it will hold the load. The only thing is designing it strong enough so it cannot rack itself laterally and collapse. Which looks like they have that covered.
Do not respond tonthe trolls let them just looking / be stupid
ive set the front end of a kw 900 on a block built just like his 16k steer axle and a cummins 15l didnt budge if anything it pushed the ground down lol
Hey brother, buy some of those retracting wheels people use to make workbenches mobile! Attach them to the large center sections, and when your done, stack the smaller pieces on top and roll them all into a corner. Beats the heck out of all the back work lugging them across the shop!
That's a fantastic idea, hopefully he sees this. 👍
I was thinking the same thing. Save your back for all the fun stuff in the car😂.
Genius
Just mount the solid kind on the side of the box..
Can I just say that I love how much you include your kids in the video and your work?! These boys are already very familiar with the garage and the shop and obviously have a great dad.
WE NEED MORE FATHERS LIKE THESE!!!
I 100% agree with you.
Take care.
To the people commenting, How do ya figure this is unsafe?? Those are solid and just fine, y’all have houses built on less foundation than these per foot. Relax, he’s doin just fine. Love the ramps!!
thank you. I am so surprised (still) that people open their mouths to speak as fact with no knowledge. I placed 2 16" lam beams across a 19' span when making two rooms one. 12"'s would have done the job, but I went with 16"s casue they were available. Do you know what the difference is? I could park my LEXUS ES that I drove at the time in the center and not bow my ceiling. Wood is NO JOKE.
Yeah, an engineered wood structure can be unbelievably strong and flexible if needed. I don’t think they use metal I-beams in homes anymore, it’s all wood I-beams. It’s all been tested over 100s of years. Those ramps can support 3 times that weight if not more. Big trees weigh many tons and that’s all above ground, wood is inherently strong.
100% there are cribbing supports made of crappie wood than that, that hold up, to over 80K pounds, and also with loads of people flying through the air at 60mph on carnival rides.
Yep. I made a set over 15 years ago, and some people on the forums were doubting the strength. As long as you design it right, you’ll be just fine as I was. Never a doubt it my head.
Although, if I had the unlimited garage space as in the video, I would have made them wider (easier to drive on) and a platform on the front so you can stand and work under the hood if needed.
@@chupacabra3331 my only question is can the individual vertical boards supporting the load the long way pull the screws out of the short boards in between from the car being rocked side to side? I’m thinking with several construction screws and construction glue, not a problem at all
I love it, throw some grip skateboard tape on the ramps. Probably need just some strips no need to cover the whole thing just something to combat slipping when the tires are wet. Also paint them so they look cool as you will I am sure have them in the shop for awhile.
This! Grip tape is cheap and will definitely help from slipping.
Great build! Definitely waaaay overbuilt, but the best way for safety's sake. I would recommend putting something between both sides that links them together. I can see them possibly sliding on the concrete.
I built a set similar to this about 15 years ago to work on and under 1 ton diesel trucks. 2x12 down the middle and sides as well as across the top with a bump and stop for the front tire location. Gorilla glue and triple coated deck screws are your friends. 15 years later and hundreds of oil changes, suspension jobs, exhaust work, transmission services, etc.. still going strong. The removable center section is critical for making these useful. I pined them together using door hinges and large nails as the hinge pins so they remove easily.
yeah, those ramps are awesome, i like how the centers move away when lifted/ you knpw, the carpentry work was spot on. good building skills.
For the people saying these ramps aren't safe what exactly about them makes them inferior to those $30 mold plastic injected ramps you bought at Walmart to change your oil? Also look at it like this the average 3 bedroom house roof is about 5500 lbs so if it's good enough to hold the roof of your house up then it for sure strong enough to hold a 3500 lbs vehicle a couple of feet in the air
The best ramps I've ever used are the ones I built. Your ramps will hold up a tank. The Southern Pine No. 2 - Design Compression Perpendicular to Grain is 565 pounds per square inch. Your ramp has 3 qty. 2x12s supporting half of a vehicle. :: 3 x 1.5 in. x 565 psi = 2543 pounds per inch of length ramp. The weight it can support is not the entire length of the ramp, but the length of the ramp under the contact area of the tires. You can add some additional length to the contact area length because the wood does spread out the load toi the ramp support, the garage floor.
I doubt they would hold up a tank. I had one of my workers remove tank service ramps about three feet off the ground and about a hundred feet long at a former Army base. Seven strands of 1 1/2 inch rebar buried in about a foot of concrete on each side.
Stand them up and a dolly would make them easy to store in a corner! I love the idea man. Definitely gives you clearance to comfortably work under it. And you could add jack stands to make it better if you wanted to! Great job! Tell the city to hurry up with your electrical plans!!!
Construction looks solid but I would suggest, as added safety, to build some sort of cross connection to stabilize the two ramps from potentially sliding apart ( laterally away from each other) as you're driving the car onto them...after the car is centered and secure, can then remove the cross bracing similar to how the ramp center sections are removable
As an automotive technician, alignments are always done by adjusting the camber first then caster and lastly toe. Also, you start with adjusting the rear first then go to the front.
Lol no wonder people don't trust "mechanics" nowadays. It's always caster first, then camber, assuming your car is adjustable for it.
The most motivating video and your energy is awesome to show how to make a custom DIY ramp plus to detail what you do for a wheel alignment, awesome video bro 🤙
I love watching videos made by folks who have too much free cash!
some of the ideas are awesome, and can be scaled down in $$ for the average back yard knuckle buster!
Keep up the GREAT work!
I seen you out at LSfest. My son noticed you before i did. He wanted to say hi but with all the people and everything going on he lost sight of you before we could head your way. We made the trip from south Louisiana ourselves! 11 hours in my 13, CTS V, manual transmission, sedan. Good times!
Cool idea.
I made some 12” wide individual ramps for my truck but they are solid wood, no cavities, and they are half as high.
Works great and peace of mind being 100% solid wood.
Works so well a friend wanted a set too.
Just need space to store them and they are super heavy.
Just wanted to let you know I really like the way you did that sponsor part of the video, it was really nicely meshed into the video and didn't feel like an obnoxious ad read like most of them, as a result. Great stuff!
Nice job brother! I have a set of Quick Jacks and love them. Now I have a couple 4 post and a couple two post lifts in my shop, oil changes and maintenance to include cleaning is really easy now!!
Check out homemade tilting ramps!! These are awesome if you have the room!! Pretty much big ramps, you drive up onto and then it tilts, where a arm/brace stops it, I've seen these ramps made 5 feet tall great for working underneath
You can add gate or door hinges at the edge of each block to hold them together. Bolt the hinges onwhile the ramps are in place, then pull the hinge pin and take the ramps apart or to pull those inner blocks for access.
You need to do a burnout patch in the driveway in front of garage , put channel logo in middle and seal it in. Would be killer air shot
GREAT idea !
I hope he sees your comment.
Before I had seen this video, I had need for my Nissan Ultima to be raised up and level. I built smaller versions of what you have with separate ramps front and back, so I can place the ramps under the car and drive up all four ramps at the same timeworked great. I really appreciate your video. Thank you.
One thing that might help, it will add a little weight but get the tops sprayed with LINE-X. I will help with grip plus it will help if you get fluid on the top. To move them around just go get a couple of the furniture dollies from Harbor Freight and stack them up then you can wheel them around super easy. 4 dollies 2 stacks and you are set.
I laughed at the strength test of you jumping on top of the wood box. That's solid shadetree load testing.
Maybe some jack casters to raise and lower the ramps to move them around the shop? Luv all the content and the work with your dad.
If the ramps were $3,000 and you went to Lowe's for all this lumber you probably were better off just getting the $3,000 ramps I would imagine.
HAHAHAHA😂
Lumber prices these days are INSANE (prices for anything really)
Thanks for the fantastic video, I absolutely love your channel.
Take care, Aloha
~Jonny5🥁
Cut some hand holds in them to make them easier to grab. You could also run a 1x2 along the outside edge to let you know if you’re getting to close to the edge.
I always put 1/16th of tow in since after the car is on the ground and rolling forward, pressure flays the bearings/tires out a bit.
I feel like it handles slightly better.
I don’t know why you don’t buy a portable, 4-post lift, for your shop. Wildfire lifts makes a good product that will fit in your shop, and it comes with casters so you can move it around inside, or outside your shop.
You can get a good second hand 2 post lift that can handle 4ton for about 1k euro, this amount of wood probably costs close to that, while achieving less flexibility, you can't even take the wheels off and service the brakes for example.
for example A standard SLS 4x30 (cm) cost about 40 euro for 5m, this project needs probably about 15 of them.
That will cost you 600euro, which will set you back 60% of the cost of a proper second hand 2 post lift. on top of that comes about a day of labour @ 60euro/h that would cost you about another 400 euro, this just depends on how you value your own labour.
@@PatrickHemmesKind of hard to do alignment on a 2 post lift.
@@PatrickHemmes Nah, 8 2x8s and 11 2x12s, assuming 10 foot lengths, comes in at $275 before tax at Lowes.
I only had the need and room for two ramps. I just bought one solid beam. And cut it in half then at an angle. Not the prettiest in the world but they’re way past 20 years old now. Don’t know why you couldn’t just add boards to the side to make it wider. But the weight oh lord .
Great video!! Thanks.. As regards the time-out. The gauge holds the current reading until you zero it out again. No need to zero out again if it times out.
I have racked my brain looking for a solution for my lowered street trucks in a very height challenged shop (i.e. no lift possible) and believe you have answered my prayers! Thank you for sharing my friend! New subscriber here and so glad I found your channel. 😎
Thanks for watching!
Its always amazing watching you figure out problems and construct a Hawaiian product to solve your problem! Nicely done mate!
Awesome ramps. I thought of doing with lumber layered, but the super heavy. This way they are light !!
i would put some sort of removable bump stop like you did up front, so that in the event it accidently rolled back it wouldnt fall off. your safe and the car would be safe.
Just purchase some LMNT to help me rehydrate in this South Texas heat/humidity. Love the videos, can't wait to see the shop build done 🤙🏽
💧🤙🏽🤙🏽
There are some 2 inch round vents made. You drill a 2 inch hole with a hole saw in between each rafter and pop the vents in with some liquid nails.
When in doubt always always reinforce your build, you did an amazing great job of the build, especially with the latching of the sections so they do not move or separate from the others and as for your build strength you could park probably 3 trucks on them before any issues why because you had mega braced and did extra cross bracing, and as for the shop not doing the alignment is because YOU put the kit in and they didn't and because you did such a good job it pissed them off and refused to do it, I see it all the time lol, anyhow sir great job on build beautiful vet, and nice shop !
Good problem solving there! I'd do some upgrades to make them easier to move... Bolt some wheels on the flat bottoms so you roll em out of the way!
Love how you used the lightest part of the truck lol should have used the front to do the drop test.
Cool ramp the only thing missing on them are hand hold on the side I thing it will make them easier to move them around the shop and stack them but cool build
Those ramps are solid my brudda, god bless!
Aloha. I have a great suggestion. Cut out Pallet Jack Slots in those lifts and get a hand held pallet jack to move them around. Or go big and get one of the electric stand on pallet jacks.
"Eddie Would Go"
Always start with the rear on an Alignment if applicable, correcting toe and ultimately thrust angle will change your front toe.
Love your videos, cars, trucks, shop, kids, and the wife seems pretty cool too, Great job Man !!
I 100% agree with you.
This is one of my very favorite family friendly channels on TH-cam. This guy is definitely a role model to be looked up to.
Take care.
I had a race car back in the day. The alignment shops all said no, except one. They used a lift then slid the rack under the car. They were great. But it was an hour drive.
i made much smaller wooden ramps that are 2x10s stack on top of one another with a 45 degree cut for the tire to climb up on. The beauty with this setup is I can add more levels if I wanted too. Im satisfied with mine the way I built them. They mimic the traditional car ramps from the store and I made 4 of them. They only down side to having wooden ramps like this is weight. Even with handles I've added, they each weigh about 50 lbs. I also had a problem where the ramp would slide under load when driving off or at the top when stopping. All I did was get a padded rubber mat and screwed that to the bottom of each and that solved the problem. I think I bought 10 2x10s before covid so to make the same ones today would cost me close to double.
I've done the same. Wish I built them years ago. I also built two different heights of wood cribbing which is so much easier dropping a gas tank. (posting on fem account)
Yellow pine has a compression rating of 8,470 lbs psi. You could park a fleet of semi trucks on top of that ramp. I would have gone with 2x8 sides and 2x12 tops. That would give you almost 9” of lift. Most commercial plastic/metal car ramps are 8” high. That would allow a shorter approach ramp. Since your not doing any sweeps or anything while doing the alignment, you should recheck your alignment after road test to see if it settled where you want it. Not pulling is not a sign of a correct alignment, just like a crown in the road can cause a pull in a perfectly aligned car.
@LonestarHawaiian you could cut some holes on the side of each ramp that would work as a handle/place to grab it and wouldn’t affect any thing.
as for the level why wouldn't you put the long side flush against the vertical post then just offset the measurement by 90 degrees. that would give you the best result
I came to the comments to look for this. Seems so obvious, but I guess that's what happens during projects
You can find the compression and load span specs for timber on the interweb.
However for reference to crush a 2x4 you need about 16 tonnes of direct load.
No car is going to weigh 16T on one corner.
That's why I built wheel cribs out of 2x4 timbers.
I also made them modular height wise so I could jack the front, put on first set, then jack the back, then raise both ends upto the next height.
Timber is safer than steel as steel will bend.
Think about it why do you think the haulage industry uses pallets.
Thanks for sharing your awesome RAMPS.
Remember your house is not made of plastic but concrete and wood. If you think your car is heavy you should go look at the weight of your home. Wood has impressive compression strength in its weight ratio. The steel fasteners are there to handle tensile needs (highly rated storm winds). Yes your average car is about two tons. The compression strength of two 2x4s screwed together is much greater than 5000 lb/in*2 meaning it can easily hold the weight of your vehicle. Of course this takes into consideration the health of the wood. Eg it's not cracked, it's not rotten, it's not petrified, etc.
Some holes would make a good grab point for a lever bar, then you can slide some wheels under the big sections or do a flip wheel. Saving the back which never gets younger
☝🏽love this idea
I am so happy i came across this video i have those black walmart ramps and had them for YEARS. i want to have more room to work on my cars but didn't want to fork 3k for a lift and willing to have something like this! would probably do half the size but i want taller ramps than those short things are.
Cheers!
A good way to make them lighter, would be to drill some holes in them. Say something like 2" or 3" holes. If you make 2 rows of them with same 2" or 3" space between them , there should still be plenty of support. You can leave the middle solid or just drill less holes in that one, say every other hole?
It looks like the level has a magnet built into the bottom side, maybe you could cut a section of angle iron and slap it to the bottom and the. Have a nice flat surface to but against the vertical bar?? Just a thought.
I like the ramp/lift thingy, think I may make one thanks for the inspiration 👍🏻
Nice ramp! seem to bo very strong! But im also like your car and alignement spec drawing on the floor! nice skill man!
Been watching your for a while now, and always wanted to ask, how the hell you know how to do all of this?? Amazing!! I wish you were my neighbor
Been watching you since headlight reviews in Hawaii; great job brother!
The boards are sitting on concrete and not supporting a span so they can hold a considerable amount of weight. Just be careful they don’t get wet and start rotting from the bottom and lose their structural integrity.
Really like the car ramps
I have some basic ramps I made years ago. I wish I had the space to make bigger ones like that. It’s really nice that you overbuild like that and now you can also roll a creeper under the car. Well done. I have a tool review channel. What do you think your favorite tool is for working on your cars or house?
Are you sponsored by tough built or just a fan of their products, I went and looked at your channel and it's tough built this and tough built that and tough built this... So, just curious.
Man your basketball court is coming along so nicely. Love it. Great video as always.
Very cool idea i built a set of wood ramps for my Z4 to do oil changes the approach angle is stupid low. But when i go to do downpipes and upgrade the twin turbos i may have to build some box like this ive alwasy seen the stacked 2x4s but this seems way more stable for being under the vehicle for awhile.
Hope you had fun in Bowling Green at corvette festival. They were thinking 10,000 Corvettes. I didn’t go as I work 63+ hrs a week and am so tired by the end of the week.
Good job. Always entertaining. Love it.
I would add handles to move them around with!
Try some solar lights on the exterior and interior in addition to your future power lights. You'll be surprised how long the modern ones last as well as the brightness.
Even though I have used music in most of my very amateur videos as well, I have to agree with those who think properly shortened and edited videos are better off without music. At the very least they can be annoying if not distracting..
That's cool I did that for my c6 vett to crib it up and wrench on it i got a trail boss 24 I just started tweaking on your truck is nice
I would try to incorporate some casters wheels to each section just to move around the shop instead of being carried.
Love it you did it
again you built something with you’re two hands amazing thank you
Must have a cold front come in out here in north Texas. Was only 96 at my house. Great video.
I think this is a really freaking cool channel.
Considering that Sarge & me are about the same age, I think it would be cool to hang out with him and have an adult beverage with him while we shake our heads at you and your crazy ideas.
This is totally safe!! These other comments are coming from people who use cinder blocks to brace up their vehicles 😂.
Good stuff brother!!
Following from New York!!
I really like this idea! Since you have an already flat and smooth work area, do you think adding castor wheels might help with the moving and arranging them? Once again, great idea 👍👍
I have Rhino Ramps and I love them. I only use them for oil changes.
Turn the level vertical and use the plumb bubble...you don't HAVE to but that rounded edge up to the aluminum.
That’s actually pretty brilliant…. Don’t know why I never thought of that.
Been to Bowling Green a couple times and did some hot laps with my ZL1 at NCM park.
One of the best tracks out there.
Looking forward to your video(s) on that trip.
Hey u should make a video on how to change ur transmission fluid on ur newer truck
You could add some drop down castors to make it easy to move around. 👍
Sweet scenes in your new garage!
You jacked the truck up and dropped it onto the ramps. That was your answer. Jack the vette up, put your spacer blocks under the wheels, lower the car onto the blocks. Do the front first and then the back. No, you would not be able to drive up onto it, but it would have taken a lot less material and time.
A lot less time to build but a lot less time and a lot safer everytime he uses them. He could use these for lots of things.
The suspension likely won't stay settled as needed doing it that way. Lifting one wheel at a time alters geometry and after done doesn't return to normal until the vehicle is moved and things can resettle.
Would it half butt work probably well enough? Probably.
Is it closest to proper procedure? Not at all.
Came here for the ramps, stayed for the alignment chalk presentation.
Awesome video but I wish it was 10 minutes instead of nearly 20
6:00 be sure to test it with the absolute lightest axle on the truck. 😂
After working in a shop for 7yrs+….i’m gonna call BS on the shop not being able to do the alignment. And i’ve had my fair share of dealing with aftermarket suspension components….lift kits and lowering kits. The tech. probably didn’t know how to make adjustments other than just a “toe-n-go”….which is all I knew before I was showed how to do a full four wheel alignment (adjusting caster, camber, and toe). Rust is a whole different story though
Some shops simply refuse to work on aftermarket stuff.
I’m failing to see why the shop wasn’t able to align the car when you apparently had no problem keeping all of the suspension the same… unless this was just a way to come out with a video for us on building some ramps.
Many shops won't touch any aftermarket stuff. You know liability and B.S.
@@bashamstaysbusy4193except he said “If a professional shop couldn’t get it in spec with an alignment could an overconfident DIYer do it with a tape measure”
Most likely liability. They don't want their asses sued or have to front the bill if something gets damaged or done wrong leading to property or personal damage. It's not a matter of can't its a matter of won't
@@95dodgev10 read my previous response.
That was going to be my question also .... But going through the replies on your comment, I totally understand now.
"Can't verses Won't"
Thanks for clearing this up guys 👍👍
Take care and be safe out there whenever you are.
Grand Idea, Thanks for sharing, for those that haven't buildt their garage yet, Put in a Pit, No hydraulics, no spotters(wives/kids/moms/dads),pets don't get in the way, and a better place to be than a dog house
first time seeing your vids gotta say i love the way your vids keep me engaged definitely subbing
I knew someone in the 90s that made ramps just like those. I can't remember who. They where always set up in his shop to work on his dune buggy.
Nice ramps. Best bad idea.
I might have tested the first ones on the front of the truck where the engine is, but looks like it worked. Just incase you wanted to put the truck on them. :)
Thecway these ramps are built, they are titally safe. Safer than jack stands because if the wood fails, it gives you a warning through creaks and cracks. Jack stands with cast supports, can fail suddenly and catastrophically without warning. Niw quality jack stands used correctly and within their weight ratings ate fine, but using wooden members like this are totally fine. If you dont believe me, look up wooden cribbing. Im a firefighter with years of experience in Uban Search and Rescue. Woiden cribbing is used to hold ip tremendous weight in structural collapse scenarios, and wood is used to build shoring for partially collapsed structures.
Maybe some quick jacks would be safer and easier to store
Had you considered putting a pit in your garage/workshop for things like this when you'd initially designed it?
Came here to say that this video started the rabbit hole of me subbing and watching the whole shop build process. Totally amazing! Completely off topic: don't know if you've answered it anywhere before, but what exactly is that black panel you had in the garage where you were recording the price list for the shop build?
Thanks for watching! If you’re referring to the board I write on, it’s actually just a dry erase board just in black. Bought it off Amazon a few years back.
@@LonestarHawaiian That's exactly it. Thought it might be. Thanks! Some day I hope to have the land and energy to tackle this same project.
Love the Art Work !!