Grinding ATLAS LIVE Lathe Centers TIPS 560 tubalcain
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2019
- I now have tubalcain T SHIRTS ---click below:
www.storefrontier.com/tubalcain
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#howtogrindacenter#atlaslathe#livelathecenters#howtorunacraftsmanlathe - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I usually do it by putting the live center in the tailstock and then spinning the point using a drill and rubber wheel. I think that would eliminate some of your run out.
This was the perfect example of machine work. It took twice as long to setup as to do the job. I love it!! Well done.
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Half of all the jobs worth doing are 90% prep work.
Thank goodness - I appear to be totally dependant on these videos like a man of an intemperate disposition - this video has come at just the right time as I have a tipped centre with a problem - Mr Pete you are a machine at churning these videos out with fabulous content - one safety nazi observation - vacuum cleaner sucking in sparks/hot metal - do not do this after having vacuumed anything flammable as it can catch at a later time - sorry for the safety nazi obs. but I had the thought, CHEERS AND GOD BLESS.
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I always learn so much from watching your videos!!!
Really like that round T-slot nut, Tubalcain, something that can be made on the lathe for those that don't have a mill to make regular T-nuts.
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Good morning Mr Pete, Once again thank you for the edutainment. Now where's my coffee, bacon and eggs when the wife is up. Have a good day Sir.
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Enjoying my morning coffee with Mr.Pete
Best way to start the weekend!
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For us noobies just have to compliment in such a large way how helpful all the info you guys offer.
Also a massive aspect often overlooked, is this information will now be here for ages as more young pups are coming up.
We really need to encourage the trades more as so much of real workmanship is being lost to the digital age and computers, etc.....
Wow sorry long winded tonight ................ In Summary Thank You From Those Who Will Watch This In The Future When You & I Are Long Gone
Really enjoy the videos!! Keep them coming!! Have a great day!!
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Well done as always. I learn something with each and every upload.
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Great series Mr. Pete, very much enjoyed!
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I need to build a toolpost grinder. I have a lovely Jones and Shipman live centre which I never use because of the wear at the end. Great video, thank you for posting it Mr Pete.
I like the concept of how you approached grinding that live center. Well thought out
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Just an armchair quarterback thought, when you have the test indicator set up, you rotate the LC bearing, not the lathe chuck. Then, you grind by rotating the whole LC with the lathe chuck, then you measure with the lathe chuck still, and rotate the bearing only.
Starting out, probably should have indicated on the LC, holding the bearing still and rotating the chuck. This would be the equivalent of indicating on the LC shaft to confirm it is concentric. Only then is rotating the entire assembly for grinding the bearing point valid. Probably should have used a 4 jaw chuck.
Thanks, Mr. Pete. It was another fine video!
I inherited a Williams wrench from my grandpa long after his death from his son, my Uncle Bob a tool n die man who worked for Kelloggs of Battle Creek until he retired. Grandpa for some reason cut off the other end of this 7/8 boxed end wrench. I use it to tighten the nuts of my milling clamping set. Uncle Bob was kind enough to give me several useful items he used during his career and I prize this old stuff.
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THANK YOU...for sharing. Enjoyed.
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How thoughtful of you to use a vacuum as to keep most of the dust out of Mrs Peterson’s towels😃 . Thanks for the video, JB San Diego
lol
I've held the centre by the taper stationary and rotated the point with a hand drill connected to the point with a belt or long o-ring . This has the advantage of keeping the point concentric to its bearing , rather than to the taper or attachments.
Brilliant! So bypass all machine error and get straight to the heart of the matter. I was wondering myself his "after grinding" measurement wasn't dead on: was his problem with the taper, the sleeve, switching between machines?
With the Skoda, if it’s anything like a piper live center the internal shaft goes right to the back, you can make up a threaded shaft and spin it with a drill or an oring and electric motor whilst holding it in a Morse taper in a tool andcutter grinder (or if you make a really long threaded shaft you can lock the path spindle and just use a drill with the threaded shaft passing right through the lathe spindle)
I've reground several using my T & C grinder, too. I have a couple of home made grinder dogs that are thin enough to fit behind to 60 deg. point. I know you're not supposed to get your fingers close to the grinding wheel. I take and rotate the center point by the dog and gently grind the full length of the point at once using a wide face wheel. If I ever do it again, the O-ring trick will be used to save my fingers! got 62 years with these fingers, I'm not ready to loose one yet!
i love this old man hes the bee's Knee's
honestly, I think he's the cats pajamas
I hear you about hte robo calls. I'm told they have been absolute hell for the hospitals. They use a hack to dial from any number at all and because most of the possible numbers aren't used you call back to a not in service number. I have even gotten them *from my house phone* while I was at home!
I have two live centers just alike I think both from Sears and one is dead on and the other is a couple of thousandths off. Thanks for the video.
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curious...after truing the grinding wheel, did you relieve it so that the actual cutting edge was much smaller? it appeared to produce a heavier cut at the end of the grinder pass...the long(wide) face of the wheel in contact produces heat..hence possibly the appearance of the heavier cut at the end of the pass at the smaller conical end.....your thoughts?
While not always possible, its preferred to grind a live center with the shank stationary driving the rotating center with a motor of some kind. That way the center automatically runs true to its bearings. Those tiny live centers (where the cone and outer race housing are integral) are a classic case for a temporary pulley (wood perhaps) driven by belt (a large O-ring) from a battery drill held by a helper.
I've seen live centers driven for grinding by friction from a rubber backing disk borrowed from an angle grinder sanding disk set. The rubber rim was forced into the largest part of the center cone and rotated by a little gear reducer. Sometimes it was necessary to warm the center to soften the bearing grease inside.
Live center grinding is one of those PITA jobs that has to be done right. The cone of a live center doesn't always clock perfectly with the work it supports in the lathe as turning operation progress on the workpiece. On heavier cuts, the work heats and expands back into the center sometimes forcing the tailstock quill back against its clamp by a trifling amount, sometimes into the chuck jaws. As the work cools for finishing cuts, the center cone may no longer be seated firmly into the work's center drilled recess - an opportunity for slow differential motion between work and center cone. If the live center cone runs eccentric with its bearings you can get an unaccountable nutation in what has to be an accurately concentric cylindrical surface - a bearing seat for example..
Great video. Another thought, have a chuck with removable jaws. Machine a set of soft jaws to hold the body of the center. The machined soft jaws would be absolute zero.
MR, Pete love you channel. Could someone use small powerful magnets, two of them to hold the center on the back from moving, if that interface is flat, anyway.
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Nice job awes om me video. Would like to have a tool post grinder but not in the budget. Have a blessed day.
Watching in Alabama
I would have mounted the center in a Four Jaw like you first stated. It takes any wear or slop in the center bearing out of the equation. I ground six centers about five years ago and they came out spot on. PS - I like your grinding set up!
It’s the bearings that are the problem though.
The problem is that if the lack of concentricity is in the center bearings, only replacing them will help.
My live center could certainly use some conditioning. I've had to mark it so I can clock it to the same position in the tailstock. It is adapted from a 3 to a 4, and the adapter looks like a scrapyard rescue. Careful honing down of several high spots have improved it, but it really should be replaced or ground, and the tip is a horror show compared to the one you demonstrated with. I'll probably see what I can accomplish with it ... after I've acquired a few other live centers ... just in case things go FUBAR
Thanks lyle 👍
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Thanks for sharing sir..
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Thank you
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So is that Mrs. Peterson's Rainbow or her Hyla? (Vacuum cleaner)
Lyle
Would have loved to the see the runout on the mounted part immediately post grinding. I bet it would have had a whole lot better TIR when done that way. What many folks don't realize is that for the absolute BEST accuracy with a center, live or dead, is to grind it in the machine you are going to use it on, and do NOT remove the center after grinding, use it in place, and often you get worse TIR moving the fresh ground center to a different machine
John
Yes thanks
Williams wrenches are the best!
Hey Mr. Pete I have one of the sharpening tool holders you showed in video #559. I got it for $1 at a sale and never knew what it was? It's yours if you want it as I don't have a grinder. Just let me know where to send it. Thanks, Gerry
What a great way to start a Saturday morning!
Question for you: using the vacuum like that and sucking the sparks directly into it, is there a concern about fire? I do the same thing attaching my shop vac to the dust collection port on my bench grinder, and I sometimes I get nervous about the sparks setting something on fire inside the vacuum.
Yes. I Emptied the vacuum before I started
@@mrpete222 Thanks. I'll make a note to do that in the future.
I like MAC and Williams heck I like em all.
Yes
Fixture it with fixturing alloy. in 200 degree oil.
Those Dumore grinders are incredibly expensive when bought new! There is really not much to them, I always wondered why they cost so much.
I always wondered the same thing
I did this on my lathe by putting it in the tail stock, and used a belt attached to a low speed motor to spin the center.
photos.app.goo.gl/RzCakxJK1yDHakJB6
You still have a post grinder though right?
I suspect the .0015 run-out is in the bearing itself and cannot be eliminated by regrinding. A high quality live center should produce no detectable run-out.
Does this mean, that this wasn't right at all?
I have a 12 inch Atlas lathe. Can I put a drum switch on it to reverse it like that?
I have a 12" Atlas (1974 Craftsman Commercial) lathe as well. The 1-1/2"X 8 right hand threads on the spindle nose would prevent us from using the reversed rotation mode. Would hate to have the chuck unscrew itself and land on the bed ways or carriage. However, it would be effective if the work-piece was held via the taper of the spindle. My lathe only has the on/off switch from the factory.
John Medeiros Thanks John. I have a draw bar and some collets that might work- thanks
Frank
Yes
Probably should of measured it when it was still in the spindle. Or runout in the bearings? Needs investigation. Job well done.
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take it apart and grind on surface grinder build fixture to hold and use .0001" indicator on two faces dialed in to zero or check the id for non concentricity indicate on id...yes there is a way.i build tools for a living and im real anal .0015 run out on a live center will cause you to not make a round part.
Wow
This delightful, elfin- like gentleman has a rather offbeat but no- less accurate way of grinding his revolving center too:
th-cam.com/video/rpREM7K7HLs/w-d-xo.html
Recently we had robocalls here in South Australia and some clutz had not corrected the American software to our time zone. Many of us were woken at the crack of dawn by a political party!
I see your using Mrs. Peterson's nice bathe towel for a cover on the Atlas. Better watch out!!! Be sleeping with that bath towel!😒
lol
Hey Mr. Pete I have one of the sharpening tool holders you showed in video #559. I got it for $1 at a sale and never knew what it was? It's yours if you want it as I don't have a grinder. Just let me know where to send it. Thanks, Gerry