To save everyone from asking or typing a suggestion, yes, a tapered roller bearing would be the best for this build and take the most load. For my purposes, this will be used for small parts and in light pressure setups.
A related question: should ball bearings not be lightly preloaded? I was expecting a screw and washer in the back of the rotating part to squeeze the inner races together.
Joe, One can see why you did as you did. The only question I have is how are the bearings holding up. My live center is very accurate, but not always right for the job. I have a chunk of 17-4 just sitting there and a stack of skate board bearings. Perhaps for occasional use they would work OK.
Given the small size, angular contact would be the cats meow for those looking to overkill the design....but good old conrad bearings are plenty good since they won't see much radial load vs the axial load.
@@dougberrett8094 As I understand it, plain single row ball bearings are rather sensitive to missalignment of the axle, but can actually take substantial axial loads. Axial load specs are usually 10% - 50% of the radial load rating, deep grove types being best. Using 2 bearings with a spacer works fine for most purposes. As long as You are not making a precision spindle or similar...
Joe, your center needs a bearing for the axial thrust load. The ball bearings you used are only intended for radial loads. An angular contact bearing in the back with a ball bearing in front would work better. A tapered roller bearing could also be used in lieu of an angular contact, or you could add a thrust bearing to the back of your double ball bearing stack-up. In its current configuration, those two bearing will not last very long.
Ball bearings can be used in any light radial / axial application. I think you'll find that most power drills use a couple of ball bearings, adequate for purpose, cheap and plentiful.
@@TheRunereaper A center is not really a light axial load application; even a small center. This is especially true when the center is used for press turning as Joe demonstrates. If you take a closer examination of the bearings used in drills, when it's just a pair of what looks like conventional ball bearings, you'll likely discover that one of them is a deep grove type, which are designed for axial loads. Also, there is a staggering difference between the axial loads on a hand drill verses a live center. The max load on a drill is ~200 lbs, but you can get more an 1000 lbs on a tailstock.
@@EDesigns_FL With respect, most "conventional" ball brgs are deep-groove. I made an almost identical live centre about 35 years ago and fitted sealed ball brgs (to protect from grinding dust and coolant ingress). I made the ID and OD to fit the most common size of brg. at the time and fitted new ones which lasted for about 20 years on fairly infrequent service. For pressure turning you don't usually need to put half a ton of load on, even though you can. I must admit, I never measured it.
I worked on CNC for a couple of years in the past, and I have been watching engine lathe machining videos, and frankly I'm amazed at the amount of skills and the quality of the parts machined there.
I can't believe it. I was needing a new life center and now you show us how to build it. At this point I have no excuse. Thanks my dear gentleman and regards from Florence ITALY
I just discovered a need for one of these for my wood lathe to turn a nylon hammer head. Even held as tight as I can get it with very light cuts the nylon rips out of the four jaw chuck and makes a nasty groove with the tip of my 60degree live center...one of these came to mind as did youtube to see how to make it....well your video was actually suggested in my feed ...very fortunate and your way of doing things earnt you a new subscriber . Your narration and lathe work are exceptional thankyou
I tried to do something similar to this when I first got my lathe. Unfortunately, I didn't thing putting it in the drill chuck would work so I tried and failed to turn a morris 3 taper on the back so it would sit in the tailstock. I might see if I can turn that failed taper straight (while keeping axial allignment with the bearings) so I can mount it in the drill chuck. Not sure why I felt the need to tell this to the entire internet, but what's done is done.
An alternative to trying to make your own taper, or relying on the drill chuck is to buy a taper. They come in various flavors with the taper hardened and ground, but the other end is machinable.
I agree with Kineth1. My lathe arrives in a couple of weeks. I haven't done any machining in years so I expect plenty of cock ups. Neat little projects like this should keep me busy until I gain some confidence and experience. Do you know what went wrong with the taper? Never forget its only a true mistake if you don't learn from it. How far out is it, Tapers can be damn hard - have you tried re-machining it. Did you machine it straight out of the chuck or between centers? Go watch Joes vid on great setups & crap results. Its specific to collet chucks but the lessons apply every where. If you start with run out that gets transferred to the part. So if you go to do a Morse taper and there's any run out your almost doomed before you start. Good luck
If You make morse taper tooling, I found the best way is to use the very cheap China tapers and adapters as stock. My lathe has a morse taper in the spindle. Then it is easy and accurate to turn whatever feature required on to taper. Use a reducer for smaller ones.
One question. Are you worrying about side loading those radial bearings? I have tools that have a pocket on the end of the center shaft where a steel ball rides. There is a matching pocket in the receiving housing so the steel ball covered in grease takes up the pressure instead of the radial bearings. Hard to find tapered roller bearings that small. There are thrust bearings that may work too. My RC helicopters have some small thrust bearings and a whole bunch of radial bearings. Boca Bearings has quite a selection of small bearings at good prices. Thank you for another fantastic video.
@@robertoswalt319 The "pressure" in pressure turning is an axial load on those radial bearings and it's likely to be greater than the radial loads that will be introduced by the cutter. The proof is in the testing, though - If the first bearing fails during use, there was too much axial load. If not, cool.
Nice video explaining how to make a very useful tool and from that unlimited attachments to suit your individual needs. Thanks Joe! For those concerned about the axial load there are two steps that can be added. 1) build an inner spacer the exact length as the outer spacer and now the lower bearing will help take about 1/2 of the load where currently is is acting only radially. 2) in addition to the above bore a deeper small inner pocket to exact dimensions for a thrust bearing...which would involve some precise measurements and understanding the bearings and their interaction very well. If you are worried about an axial load perhaps add step 1...Joe was showing us how to come up with a wonderful solution on our own that will work very well for many applications. Thanks again Joe!
Why not use three of the same bearings with no spacers or buy two bearings with side seals and one bearing without side seals and place it between the two bearings with side seals, simple. Equals no spacers to make and it triples the axial load capacity.
@@wwilcox2726 three bearings would work as well...but my thought is that this is a smaller live center for light loads. Also...the further apart the bearings the less radial deflection at the tip of the center. Joe showed us how to achieve that is a very quick and inexpensive way that will work for most applications. If I were to build a little center like this one I perhaps would only have added the center spacer.
Reeeaaalllyyy? One person gave this thumbs down? I'd give 10 thumbs up if I could. Thank you Joe...Im not a machinist but I watch every video...Id love to have HALF the machines u have...even a quarter would be nice. I learn something new every time..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Bloody brilliant, Winky made one that was larger (single purpose), I was going to make one too, but after seeing this, and the interchangeability, plus smaller size, I'm all over this like a rash, Thanks, Joe. Scott.
Never knew i could enjoy watching you make something that i have no clue what its purpose is or will be. Its the precision of your machinery and what you can make it do, that amazes me. A pleasure to watch.
I was sitting here going back over some of your older posts and this one caught my eye again. I made one of these a bit biggre using alternator bearings and have 4 different inserts for it. Love it ! It is invaluable when needed. It will stay in it's little wooden box for months and when needed there is just nothing that works so well. Thanks Joe.
Great little gadget Joe. Greatly appreciate your professional outlooks and capabilities channelled towards the amateur engineer’s outlook. That’s extremely helpful. Even applies on my elderly Drummond M lathe that celebrates its centenary this year!
Another project for the tool box thanks Joe. One question I am looking into purchasing a gauge pin set would a minus set or plus set be better to start with ? Thank you in advance. Steve
It comes down to the types of holes you make most often. If oversize holes for slip fits go for plus pins. If onsize or undersize holes for press fits use minus pins. Eg doweling two parts where the dowel stays with a particular half when separated.
I challenge you to make a similar center for the miniature engine lathe kit you are working on! Except maybe using bronze oilite bushings since you'll never find a ball bearing that small.
Never thought of making a DIY live center before seeing this video. Since people are going on about the bearings not holding up... could a normal size live center be made with bronze bushings instead of ball or roller bearings? Or would that be no better than a dead center?
Just wanted to say "THANK YOU". I am an absolute novice, hobbyist with a Smithy Midas 1220 that I've had for over 10 years, with VERY little tooling (have to use a hacksaw to part a piece off) and this video made me want make my first attempt at some real precision work. The bearing shaft is a couple of thou too small and the center shell is a couple of thou too big but I am happy with it and best of all, IT WORKS. The whole thing cost me $14 for the cheap bearings at Kaman and about five days working on it during breaks in other projects. I just need to learn what speeds, feeds and bits can give me the best finish. Once again, thank you for putting this out there. Jim in Abilene, TX
I'm definitely going to make one of these to replace the slug of brass I have with one flat face and one face with a centre drilled hole. I'm going to add a lip seal and use angular contact bearings. I'll put a threaded through hole with a grub screw for driving out the centre and adding oil to the bearings.
You made cutting stainless look easy with those wide ribbons. Now I was burning though inserts trying to take the thread of a stainless threaded rod and went with a really sharp HSS bit and flood coolant which worked way better but much slower. Was my difficulty because it was stainless or becauce the thread was work hardened, or because typical inserts aren't sharp?
Can you make a video going over S.S.? I just finished a project with 304 and had a tough time drilling and milling.. great videos.. very helpful stuff..
There's a load of people gonna moan that standard deep groove bearings aren't made for axial loads, which is true, but this is a small centre made for small loads and occasional use, and it's the front bearing that will eventually die, thus easy to replace. Sure, if you wanted to make an intensive use centre, this isn't how you'd do it, but there's nothing to stop the enterprising individual adding a single bearing ball in the hole at the bottom, with an adjuster driven by a grubscrew to remove the axial load on the bearing and increase its lifespan. If you want high speed and a reduction of any high frequency resonance effects, use two bearings up front with different ODs and thus different ball counts, e.g 6802/6902 to locate the front, with a roller cage behind those and a thrust bearing at the back ad some sort of retention mechanism. But that's an entirely different project.
Just made the same comment before I read this. IMO the easiest fix would be to use an angular contact bearing for the outer bearing, they are typically available in the same sizes as normal deep groove bearings and have much higher axial load ratings.
@@ferrumignis just use three regular bearings in place of making the spacer between two bearings and you've tripled the axial load capacity and saved the hassle of making the spacer. And regular bearings are available at most local hardware stores. That's the easiest fix IMO.
That is NOT true. If it was why do they list a spec on then for axial loads. - Anybody wanna put some money that Joe never has to change the bearings over the next 5 years? (Lubrication is VERY important too)
@@wwilcox2726That won't necessarily triple the axial load capacity, as you can't guarantee the tolerances will put the forces through the inner cages on all 3 bearings. In addition, 3 bearings back to back in a blind hole are close to impossible to change out when they eventually fail; you'll need to pull them one by one which will require a special puller with super-fine teeth to get a grip on the first 2. You could relatively easily double the axial load capacity by using a very carefully measured spacer on the inner race as well as the outer (and when I say carefully, I mean measured to take up the tolerances on the specific individual bearings you're using and place both sets of balls in contact with their outer races), however this will lead to eventual load related failures on the back bearing, which is gonna be a bear to change out (not impossible, but awkward, it will probably require the wet paper towel and gauge pin method). In the end it becomes more work than doing it "right", and certainly more work than it's worth for an occasional use tool. Joe's design is fine. As simple as possible, but no simpler. Bearing failure every 2 years? No biggie, swap it out, it's easy to do and it's a jellybean part.
Another superb idea Joe, thank you very much. Your forays into model making have given your video subjects a whole new lease of life. I think that you must now have the widest spectrum of machining subject matter of any channel, and for that I am very grateful. Best wishes and long may you prosper.
Thanks, Joe. Your projects are quite valuable and easy to understand thanks to your clear and concise explanations. Please continue to share your wealth of knowledge with those of us old timers who are new to this field. Capt. Art
Good tip about the material being cool. This is something i learned the hard way. The part WILL shrink when it cools, by up to a couple thou easy. I blew right past a critical dimension just the other day by not paying attention to that fact. Part was good to go when i mic'd it. Walked away to change tools and set up for the next op. re-checked it and it was under... womp womp. Priceless advice as always, thanks Joe!
Great video Joe. I have been a maintenance machinist in a papermill for 14+ years. I work with a lot of 316 stainless. Suggestion for a future video. I have figured out how to break the chips on SS when taking a heavy cut, but how the hell do you do it when taking your finish cuts? I've never figured that out. Pulling those long razors are not very safe. I would have loved to spend part of my apprenticeship with you. Love your videos.
Thanks for this. Made myself one with 1/2" dia pointed end with MT3 for tailstock. Been needing a little one and this motivated me to do the deed. I chose to have tight slip fit so I can change the tip and not make another MT3 holder. Plan on having conical tip also. Managed to do this and not have runout which is going some for me. (5C collet upgrade helped immensely)
Wonderful project! Thanks, Joe! I'll have to make one of these! Just a side note - when drilling the part with the centre drill, why not use a 120° spotting drill? It took me 20 years of machining to learn that centre drills are for centres, and that using them for drilling can lead to chipped drills following the 60° hole left by my centre drill. Might be useful info for budding machinists so that they can start off the right way! Keep up the great content!
As a beginner I would be very interesting in seeing a comparison between starting with a centre and spot drills, as well a reasoned discussion on the most efficient and wear saving approach to stepped up drill sizing depending on material and other factors. Thanks for the great content Joe!
Excellent tool, can’t wait to make my own. I’m a big fan of pressure turning and have had to pressure turn some rather large items over the years that are probably just a bit to big for the lathe I was using. Great work, thanks again for continuing to make videos!
I literaly ordered a live centre 6 hours ago for delivery today and woke up to this in my youtube feed! I do need one on a #1mt though because its a mini lathe and i cant spare the room. I'm gonna make a negative centre for my dads lathe though.
Great project, however, doesn't the axial load always go through the drill chuck Jaws, since they push out when tightening, so a small gap to the drill chuck face will always be present?
True, but it's really only a back up in case you crash your part. For pressure turning the requirement is to apply axial pressure to clamp a work piece against the spindle of the lathe. The lathe spindle is providing all the required radial support for the work piece. Joe could have made the shank the largest diameter the chuck was rated to hold and the shank itself would be more rigid, but it would have more unsupported length beyond the chuck jaws. Again a pressure center provides clamping force and not very much radial support. If you want to make it a live center then the problem becomes the concentricity/run-out of the chuck your mounting it in, because that will cause you to cut parts with a slight taper. And truth be told, a drill chuck is not designed for side loading, it's designed for thrust loading. Cheers!
Lovely little project Joe, as always. Couple of comment/questions: 1) I was a bit confused at the beginning when you mentioned that you needed the largest diameter that would keep the chuck jaws below the surface. With a conventional chuck it's smaller diameters that cause the jaws to protrude, does that chuck work backwards? 2) Wouldn't an angular contact bearing be a better choice for the outer bearing given it's under axial load?
Most drill chuck jaws will retract into the chuck body as the holding diameter gets bigger. I would like to see the kind you reference in your question.
@@joepie221 I also picked this up. I think you meant to say the SMALLEST diameter that could be chucked while still keeping the chuck jaws below the surface of the chuck. The largest diameter that would keep the chuck jaws below the surface would be the largest diameter you could fit into the chuck. As someone else commented, you need the chuck jaws as far forward as possible (within the chuck) to provide maximum support.
@@greybeardza9197 I respectfully disagree. I said largest because most all drill chuck jaws pull into the chuck body as the diameter of the drill increases. As jaws move forward, their holding capacity decreases and they protrude beyond the face of the drill chuck body.
@@joepie221 Sorry Joe. I'm still trying to understand this. You said, "Find the max diameter you can hold in the drill chuck with the jaws sub-surface. There will be one. Write that down." I have a 16mm chuck. If I put a 16mm drill into it, the jaws are sub- surface (I fact I can't even see them). But that is the max diameter I can put into the chuck with the jaws sub-surface. If I put a 10mm drill into the chuck, the jaws are just sub-surface. And with an 8mm drill the jaws protrude a little. Which figure must I write down? 16mm or 10mm?
I was thinking of that myself. I think the answer is this: use cheap bearings so it doesn't hurt to replace them when they wear out. It looks like this design puts the thrust load only on the first bearing (he said to make the shaft a slip fit to go inside the bearings, the thrust into the bearing is only from the shoulder) so you will likely only need to replace one at a time.
What cool attachment to add to the tool box,,& very useful too. Off subject, now proud owner of a 1941 LeBlond regal 17, Model # D-6251. Will be showing it off on our channel as soon as she is leveled up, and transmission gears are inspected prior to use. Thx Joe for the live pressure center tip. Bear
@@mattphilip4595 if the inner bearing was an angular contact type it would not provide any additional axial thrust capacity, but it would be an angular contact type. As based on the construction used in the video.
@@wwilcox2726 Irrespective of location, one of the bearings can absorb axial load as long as the shaft and mount are designed to transfer the force. Based on the Joe's example, the substitution of a spacer on the shaft between the two bearings, in lieu of the O.D. spacer, would convey axial force. Chris is correct and I don't believe that you have figured this out ;-)
@@EDesigns_FL additionally, if the deeper bearing were the angular contact, and nothing else changed, the press fit of the radial bearing and spacer would prevent the angular bearing from coming apart.
Fantastic, Joe. I happened to have recently purchased qty 100 608-RS skate bearings for $0.18 ea. My other machinist buddies didn’t believe me when I said they come in handy for all sorts of things!
apologies for not watching so much lately: but learnt MORE towards the end here:things one "knows" but doesn't think about - ie the spacer rings ID/OD dependent on application but NOT to link ID with OD ! "Oh any old bit pipe will do" - no it won't ! Jewel in the vid? goes to the end result: FLAT face workpiece holding! So tha's how it is done - OK for plastics - but even Aluminium ! Who'd have thunk it? Jo did thank you.
@@joepie221 Indeed, just as a kwik reply:- I'll have to investigate = try with a thin RUBBER sheet for metals and maybe that liquid diamond pastte ( gripping paste for stubborn Pozi screws ). Of Course theirs always the Hot GLue and / or Super glue - but getting rid of the residue would cause as much grief. Axial load is of course dependent on the Bearings ratings and Pressure exerted on the workpiece. Thanks again
I've been thinking about this exact project. You confirmed a couple things that makes me more confident in doing it. I'm not a machinist by the way. More of a weekend warrior.
Perfect timing on this. I just bought myself a different lathe, offcourse the life centre was gone as the guy didnt use the machine for a few years. But ordering a new life centre with a mk5 cone costs a pretty penny and then on top of that most of those are HUGE. Now i might want a huge centre at some point, but mos of my jobs are actually pretty small. So i think im going to build this. Nice project to get to know my "new" lathe as wel.
Your videos are very much enjoyed. I've learned a lot from the machining content and the videography is excellent. One suggestion I have is to start with a clip of the finished product so we can see where you're going. In this video, for instance, I had no idea what the individual parts were for and how their dimensions related to each other. Until the end.
Occasionally, I like it to be a surprise and compose the video as such, but I agree an opening shot of the final product could hold some attention. Good suggestion.
A tips and tricks video would be cool, I'd like to hear more about the razor blade. And maybe a shop tour of machinery? As if I'm not envious enough of just your skill and experience, lol
You appreciate us watching, feel like I should be the one being appreciative your kinda doing all of the work and I'm getting All the benefits. Idk this is a huge joint in my hand
Nice little centre Joe, here I was thinking it was for the model lathe. I was considering designing and making something like this, but the smaller size is very intriguing, might be a nice adaptation for a mini chuck in the tail stock as well. Thanks and cheers!
To all the armchair experts commenting on the use of 2 radial ball bearings. The tool is for occasional use only and on small parts, so longevity is not really an issue. The bearings are cheap as chips to replace in any case. Would you make a high duty cycle heavy load center this way? Of course not if for the simple reliance on a drill chuck for centering. Joe has probably forgotten more engineering than the "experts" ever learned.
Yes, and if you look you can get the ball bearings that have enhanced axial loading capacity as well, just in case you want to go full gorilla on them. But just using a size that is common means you can simply change them out when worn, which is easy enough.
Thanks for this Joe, I am a watch maker and have been needing a live center for my 8mm WW patern lathe tailstock. Now I just need to take the time, I have the bearings. Maybe after the first of the year.
Ditto Guns and Cars I kind of wonder if those quoting tenths and hundredths have aligned their headstocks and tailstocks to equal precision let alone adjust headstock bearing preload. I would suggest incorporating one or two belleville washers into the design. Your bearings are fine for the intended use.
For real. On a lot of applications, things don't have to be dead nuts, distilled, inert gas, Kosher, Blessed, CARB approved, Executive order, act of God approved. Sometimes, we just need things to be better than you can do with a Ryobi Drill. Pushing the part against the chuck, and using a nice sharp tool will get you there.
Just yesterday I was thinking about another live center too. Only I was gonna do a Torrington bearing with hardened thrust washers between the holder and pushpiece.
G’day Joe. Nice little project. My second impression was damn that inner bearing will be difficult to remove when it fails but then a slip fit pin, grease and a few hits with a hammer will hydraulic the bearing out. A handy piece to have in the toolbox. Cheers Peter
If I any make a suggestion, you should try using water as a coolant when machining 316 stainless. I am a Steamfitter and a millwright suggested using water when drilling holes to me one time. It made it easier and did not dull the drill. When I had to thread some 316 pipe I emptied the cutting oil from the reservoir on the Ridgid 535 and the threads came out much better than with oil and water only allows the part to get to 212 degrees
James I was taught the same thing from an old toolmaker years ago. When reaming a hole use water! It really works for dowel pin holes and such. A hole that's got to be dead on I always use water. I work in the Die industry so I use this a lot!!
@@joeziegler9054 Can you use something like water with some Koolmist 77 in it or should it be plain water? I was thinking of buying some Koolmist and making up a spray bottle to manually apply coolant. They claim it helps prevent rust.
Thanks for the Info. Makes sense. I stumbled into using Kool-mist via accident of water in my oil bath for knurling aluminum 6061. Had to turn OIL off and a different setup. the flakes in the knurl were like night and day.
Joe, I would love to see a video on making a collet nut with an internal bearing surface along with a discussion as to why that configuration is beneficial.
To save everyone from asking or typing a suggestion, yes, a tapered roller bearing would be the best for this build and take the most load. For my purposes, this will be used for small parts and in light pressure setups.
A related question: should ball bearings not be lightly preloaded? I was expecting a screw and washer in the back of the rotating part to squeeze the inner races together.
Joe,
One can see why you did as you did. The only question I have is how are the bearings holding up. My live center is very accurate, but not always right for the job. I have a chunk of 17-4 just sitting there and a stack of skate board bearings. Perhaps for occasional use they would work OK.
Given the small size, angular contact would be the cats meow for those looking to overkill the design....but good old conrad bearings are plenty good since they won't see much radial load vs the axial load.
Wouldn't tapered roller bearings call for a tension control adding more delicate mechanics? Thought about head stock tapered bearings...
@@dougberrett8094 As I understand it, plain single row ball bearings are rather sensitive to missalignment of the axle, but can actually take substantial axial loads. Axial load specs are usually 10% - 50% of the radial load rating, deep grove types being best. Using 2 bearings with a spacer works fine for most purposes. As long as You are not making a precision spindle or similar...
I need to watch this a couple of more times, it is going to be really useful. You are by far my favorite machining resource on TH-cam.
There are some quality channels. Thanks.
@@joepie221 you and RobRenz are in my top 3 for sure.
@@stonevalleyozark475 I appreciate that.
Joe, your center needs a bearing for the axial thrust load. The ball bearings you used are only intended for radial loads. An angular contact bearing in the back with a ball bearing in front would work better. A tapered roller bearing could also be used in lieu of an angular contact, or you could add a thrust bearing to the back of your double ball bearing stack-up. In its current configuration, those two bearing will not last very long.
Long enough for occasional work. This is not a turbopump.
Honestly, I was thinking along the same lines but I also have not really tbought about what thrust load really is on a live center.
Ball bearings can be used in any light radial / axial application. I think you'll find that most power drills use a couple of ball bearings, adequate for purpose, cheap and plentiful.
@@TheRunereaper A center is not really a light axial load application; even a small center. This is especially true when the center is used for press turning as Joe demonstrates. If you take a closer examination of the bearings used in drills, when it's just a pair of what looks like conventional ball bearings, you'll likely discover that one of them is a deep grove type, which are designed for axial loads. Also, there is a staggering difference between the axial loads on a hand drill verses a live center. The max load on a drill is ~200 lbs, but you can get more an 1000 lbs on a tailstock.
@@EDesigns_FL With respect, most "conventional" ball brgs are deep-groove. I made an almost identical live centre about 35 years ago and fitted sealed ball brgs (to protect from grinding dust and coolant ingress). I made the ID and OD to fit the most common size of brg. at the time and fitted new ones which lasted for about 20 years on fairly infrequent service. For pressure turning you don't usually need to put half a ton of load on, even though you can. I must admit, I never measured it.
These "Joe Pie" mini projects are one of a kind. Easy yet useful, simple yet brilliant. We appreciate them Joe!
I worked on CNC for a couple of years in the past, and I have been watching engine lathe machining videos, and frankly I'm amazed at the amount of skills and the quality of the parts machined there.
Its a very capable machine.
Great live center it should last for decades. I made a large live center back in the 70's and it is still working for me.
Hey Joe, how about a wobble broach project. That would be awesome
Yea joe that would be very cool and including the grinding of a few broach styles too 😁😁😁😁 pretty please.🙏🙏🙏
Third that from me Joe, yes please Sir
Absolutely!
Yes please!
AvE already did this 7 years ago. th-cam.com/video/M3Ul-s9_MA0/w-d-xo.html
I can't believe it. I was needing a new life center and now you show us how to build it. At this point I have no excuse. Thanks my dear gentleman and regards from Florence ITALY
I just discovered a need for one of these for my wood lathe to turn a nylon hammer head. Even held as tight as I can get it with very light cuts the nylon rips out of the four jaw chuck and makes a nasty groove with the tip of my 60degree live center...one of these came to mind as did youtube to see how to make it....well your video was actually suggested in my feed ...very fortunate and your way of doing things earnt you a new subscriber .
Your narration and lathe work are exceptional thankyou
Great idea!! I especially like the suggestion of making multiple different "tips" to suit your needs, fast and easy to change. Thanks for sharing!!
I tried to do something similar to this when I first got my lathe. Unfortunately, I didn't thing putting it in the drill chuck would work so I tried and failed to turn a morris 3 taper on the back so it would sit in the tailstock. I might see if I can turn that failed taper straight (while keeping axial allignment with the bearings) so I can mount it in the drill chuck.
Not sure why I felt the need to tell this to the entire internet, but what's done is done.
Let others know your mistakes so that they can go make new, original mistakes. It is only common courtesy.
An alternative to trying to make your own taper, or relying on the drill chuck is to buy a taper. They come in various flavors with the taper hardened and ground, but the other end is machinable.
I agree with Kineth1. My lathe arrives in a couple of weeks. I haven't done any machining in years so I expect plenty of cock ups.
Neat little projects like this should keep me busy until I gain some confidence and experience.
Do you know what went wrong with the taper? Never forget its only a true mistake if you don't learn from it.
How far out is it, Tapers can be damn hard - have you tried re-machining it.
Did you machine it straight out of the chuck or between centers? Go watch Joes vid on great setups & crap results. Its specific to collet chucks but the lessons apply every where. If you start with run out that gets transferred to the part. So if you go to do a Morse taper and there's any run out your almost doomed before you start.
Good luck
If You make morse taper tooling, I found the best way is to use the very cheap China tapers and adapters as stock. My lathe has a morse taper in the spindle. Then it is easy and accurate to turn whatever feature required on to taper. Use a reducer for smaller ones.
@@erikisberg3886 That's a damn smart idea - well done for sharing.
One question. Are you worrying about side loading those radial bearings? I have tools that have a pocket on the end of the center shaft where a steel ball rides. There is a matching pocket in the receiving housing so the steel ball covered in grease takes up the pressure instead of the radial bearings. Hard to find tapered roller bearings that small. There are thrust bearings that may work too. My RC helicopters have some small thrust bearings and a whole bunch of radial bearings. Boca Bearings has quite a selection of small bearings at good prices.
Thank you for another fantastic video.
Really should be radial thrust bearings.
Since he is using it for pressure turning, I would imagine the side load is negligible as opposed to the side thrust if he were turning a shaft.
@@robertoswalt319 The "pressure" in pressure turning is an axial load on those radial bearings and it's likely to be greater than the radial loads that will be introduced by the cutter. The proof is in the testing, though - If the first bearing fails during use, there was too much axial load. If not, cool.
Nice video explaining how to make a very useful tool and from that unlimited attachments to suit your individual needs. Thanks Joe! For those concerned about the axial load there are two steps that can be added.
1) build an inner spacer the exact length as the outer spacer and now the lower bearing will help take about 1/2 of the load where currently is is acting only radially.
2) in addition to the above bore a deeper small inner pocket to exact dimensions for a thrust bearing...which would involve some precise measurements and understanding the bearings and their interaction very well.
If you are worried about an axial load perhaps add step 1...Joe was showing us how to come up with a wonderful solution on our own that will work very well for many applications. Thanks again Joe!
Why not use three of the same bearings with no spacers or buy two bearings with side seals and one bearing without side seals and place it between the two bearings with side seals, simple. Equals no spacers to make and it triples the axial load capacity.
@@wwilcox2726 three bearings would work as well...but my thought is that this is a smaller live center for light loads. Also...the further apart the bearings the less radial deflection at the tip of the center. Joe showed us how to achieve that is a very quick and inexpensive way that will work for most applications. If I were to build a little center like this one I perhaps would only have added the center spacer.
Reeeaaalllyyy? One person gave this thumbs down? I'd give 10 thumbs up if I could. Thank you Joe...Im not a machinist but I watch every video...Id love to have HALF the machines u have...even a quarter would be nice. I learn something new every time..👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Bloody brilliant, Winky made one that was larger (single purpose), I was going to make one too, but after seeing this, and the interchangeability, plus smaller size, I'm all over this like a rash, Thanks, Joe.
Scott.
Never knew i could enjoy watching you make something that i have no clue what its purpose is or will be. Its the precision of your machinery and what you can make it do, that amazes me. A pleasure to watch.
You always have the best small projects to make a novice machinist's life and bank account a little easier. Thank you Joe.
Glad to help
Quick but definitely not dirty! Thanks, Joe.
Great project for a snowy Sunday waiting for this evenings Super Bowl. Thanks Joe!
I think Mahomes is going all the way.
@@joepie221 Anybody BUT "deflate gate" Brady! I am a life long Bills fan!
It’s always gratifying to watch a master at work.
Thank you.
I was sitting here going back over some of your older posts and this one caught my eye again. I made one of these a bit biggre using alternator bearings and have 4 different inserts for it. Love it ! It is invaluable when needed. It will stay in it's little wooden box for months and when needed there is just nothing that works so well. Thanks Joe.
I really like this project. One of the few I've seen on the internet that I actually want to build
Oh, come on, we all wanted to hear a pop when pulling the gauge pin out. (6:10)
Or was it just me?
There is something mildly satisfying about that sound. Just don't let the gage pin rebound out of the hole and chip your boring bar.
Great little gadget Joe. Greatly appreciate your professional outlooks and capabilities channelled towards the amateur engineer’s outlook. That’s extremely helpful. Even applies on my elderly Drummond M lathe that celebrates its centenary this year!
Hi Michael, yours must be one of the very first of the M Type!
Could well have been. Number is 372, if I recall.
@@michaelwaldron3222 Hi Michael, an early production model then; www.lathes.co.uk/drummond/page18.html
Another project for the tool box thanks Joe. One question I am looking into purchasing a gauge pin set would a minus set or plus set be better to start with ? Thank you in advance. Steve
Good question. I was wondering the same thing.
It comes down to the types of holes you make most often. If oversize holes for slip fits go for plus pins. If onsize or undersize holes for press fits use minus pins. Eg doweling two parts where the dowel stays with a particular half when separated.
I have a minus set. It has served me well and allows for some very precise hole sizes.
Precision engineering right here. Thank you Joe. Regards Gareth
Not hard but so simple and straight forward in its construction. Well done sir.
I challenge you to make a similar center for the miniature engine lathe kit you are working on! Except maybe using bronze oilite bushings since you'll never find a ball bearing that small.
They make some crazy small ball bearings nowadays though. :D
I accept the challenge. Video coming.
Never thought of making a DIY live center before seeing this video. Since people are going on about the bearings not holding up... could a normal size live center be made with bronze bushings instead of ball or roller bearings? Or would that be no better than a dead center?
Just wanted to say "THANK YOU". I am an absolute novice, hobbyist with a Smithy Midas 1220 that I've had for over 10 years, with VERY little tooling (have to use a hacksaw to part a piece off) and this video made me want make my first attempt at some real precision work. The bearing shaft is a couple of thou too small and the center shell is a couple of thou too big but I am happy with it and best of all, IT WORKS. The whole thing cost me $14 for the cheap bearings at Kaman and about five days working on it during breaks in other projects. I just need to learn what speeds, feeds and bits can give me the best finish. Once again, thank you for putting this out there. Jim in Abilene, TX
Are those thrust bearings? I'd think you'd want those in this type of application.
I'm definitely going to make one of these to replace the slug of brass I have with one flat face and one face with a centre drilled hole.
I'm going to add a lip seal and use angular contact bearings. I'll put a threaded through hole with a grub screw for driving out the centre and adding oil to the bearings.
Tapered bearings would be the best.
Hi Joe. Not just useful, but uplifting. Cheered me up just watching you explain and manufacture this useful tool. Thank you! BobUK.
Thanks Bob.
Finally a professional machinist Youtubue channel!!!👍😸
You made cutting stainless look easy with those wide ribbons. Now I was burning though inserts trying to take the thread of a stainless threaded rod and went with a really sharp HSS bit and flood coolant which worked way better but much slower. Was my difficulty because it was stainless or becauce the thread was work hardened, or because typical inserts aren't sharp?
What a great idea. I was just thinking about buying an MT2 live center afew weeks back but hadn't gotten to it yet
Can you make a video going over S.S.? I just finished a project with 304 and had a tough time drilling and milling.. great videos.. very helpful stuff..
Very interesting Joe I will be making one or two of those.
One body with several tips. Perfect.
There's a load of people gonna moan that standard deep groove bearings aren't made for axial loads, which is true, but this is a small centre made for small loads and occasional use, and it's the front bearing that will eventually die, thus easy to replace.
Sure, if you wanted to make an intensive use centre, this isn't how you'd do it, but there's nothing to stop the enterprising individual adding a single bearing ball in the hole at the bottom, with an adjuster driven by a grubscrew to remove the axial load on the bearing and increase its lifespan. If you want high speed and a reduction of any high frequency resonance effects, use two bearings up front with different ODs and thus different ball counts, e.g 6802/6902 to locate the front, with a roller cage behind those and a thrust bearing at the back ad some sort of retention mechanism. But that's an entirely different project.
Way too overdone.
Just made the same comment before I read this. IMO the easiest fix would be to use an angular contact bearing for the outer bearing, they are typically available in the same sizes as normal deep groove bearings and have much higher axial load ratings.
@@ferrumignis just use three regular bearings in place of making the spacer between two bearings and you've tripled the axial load capacity and saved the hassle of making the spacer. And regular bearings are available at most local hardware stores. That's the easiest fix IMO.
That is NOT true. If it was why do they list a spec on then for axial loads. - Anybody wanna put some money that Joe never has to change the bearings over the next 5 years? (Lubrication is VERY important too)
@@wwilcox2726That won't necessarily triple the axial load capacity, as you can't guarantee the tolerances will put the forces through the inner cages on all 3 bearings. In addition, 3 bearings back to back in a blind hole are close to impossible to change out when they eventually fail; you'll need to pull them one by one which will require a special puller with super-fine teeth to get a grip on the first 2.
You could relatively easily double the axial load capacity by using a very carefully measured spacer on the inner race as well as the outer (and when I say carefully, I mean measured to take up the tolerances on the specific individual bearings you're using and place both sets of balls in contact with their outer races), however this will lead to eventual load related failures on the back bearing, which is gonna be a bear to change out (not impossible, but awkward, it will probably require the wet paper towel and gauge pin method).
In the end it becomes more work than doing it "right", and certainly more work than it's worth for an occasional use tool. Joe's design is fine. As simple as possible, but no simpler. Bearing failure every 2 years? No biggie, swap it out, it's easy to do and it's a jellybean part.
A quirky bit of kit there . That's a definite one to make in the future ! Cheers .
Another superb idea Joe, thank you very much. Your forays into model making have given your video subjects a whole new lease of life. I think that you must now have the widest spectrum of machining subject matter of any channel, and for that I am very grateful. Best wishes and long may you prosper.
Thank you very much. The model direction truly has presented a lot of new material possibilities. Fun too.
Thanks, Joe.
Your projects are quite valuable and easy to understand thanks to your clear and concise explanations. Please continue to share your wealth of knowledge with those of us old timers who are new to this field.
Capt. Art
I'll give it my best shot.
I haven't got a lathe, nor have I used one since school 40years ago, but I really enjoyed watching you work. Beautiful.
Thank you very much!
Good tip about the material being cool. This is something i learned the hard way. The part WILL shrink when it cools, by up to a couple thou easy. I blew right past a critical dimension just the other day by not paying attention to that fact. Part was good to go when i mic'd it. Walked away to change tools and set up for the next op. re-checked it and it was under... womp womp. Priceless advice as always, thanks Joe!
Its something many have learned the hard way. You are not alone.
As usual Joe, a great short video to get the motivation back. Thank you.
The kind of video that must be saved in the list of great ideas.
Glad you think so!
Great video Joe. I have been a maintenance machinist in a papermill for 14+ years. I work with a lot of 316 stainless. Suggestion for a future video. I have figured out how to break the chips on SS when taking a heavy cut, but how the hell do you do it when taking your finish cuts? I've never figured that out. Pulling those long razors are not very safe. I would have loved to spend part of my apprenticeship with you. Love your videos.
Thanks for this. Made myself one with 1/2" dia pointed end with MT3 for tailstock. Been needing a little one and this motivated me to do the deed. I chose to have tight slip fit so I can change the tip and not make another MT3 holder. Plan on having conical tip also. Managed to do this and not have runout which is going some for me. (5C collet upgrade helped immensely)
Wonderful project! Thanks, Joe! I'll have to make one of these!
Just a side note - when drilling the part with the centre drill, why not use a 120° spotting drill? It took me 20 years of machining to learn that centre drills are for centres, and that using them for drilling can lead to chipped drills following the 60° hole left by my centre drill. Might be useful info for budding machinists so that they can start off the right way!
Keep up the great content!
I have never been a fan of spot drills on a lathe. I'll do a video on that topic someday and show why.
As a beginner I would be very interesting in seeing a comparison between starting with a centre and spot drills, as well a reasoned discussion on the most efficient and wear saving approach to stepped up drill sizing depending on material and other factors.
Thanks for the great content Joe!
Ditto - I am no Joe Pi but when I do end up using a center drill I do not go past the first angle.
@@joepie221 please do!!!
Very cool demonstration. I have made a live center and made alternative heads for it. I highly recommend it!
Being able to swap heads like that is incredibly handy.
@@joepie221 agreed! I love multitools! :)
Excellent tool, can’t wait to make my own. I’m a big fan of pressure turning and have had to pressure turn some rather large items over the years that are probably just a bit to big for the lathe I was using.
Great work, thanks again for continuing to make videos!
Make sure the bearing will take the load.
I literaly ordered a live centre 6 hours ago for delivery today and woke up to this in my youtube feed!
I do need one on a #1mt though because its a mini lathe and i cant spare the room. I'm gonna make a negative centre for my dads lathe though.
Great project, however, doesn't the axial load always go through the drill chuck Jaws, since they push out when tightening, so a small gap to the drill chuck face will always be present?
True, but it's really only a back up in case you crash your part. For pressure turning the requirement is to apply axial pressure to clamp a work piece against the spindle of the lathe. The lathe spindle is providing all the required radial support for the work piece. Joe could have made the shank the largest diameter the chuck was rated to hold and the shank itself would be more rigid, but it would have more unsupported length beyond the chuck jaws. Again a pressure center provides clamping force and not very much radial support. If you want to make it a live center then the problem becomes the concentricity/run-out of the chuck your mounting it in, because that will cause you to cut parts with a slight taper. And truth be told, a drill chuck is not designed for side loading, it's designed for thrust loading.
Cheers!
Skateboard wheel bearings seem ideal for this.
Plus, they are cheap and readily available from Amazon etc.
excellent project Joe, heading off to my lathe now to make one!!
Lovely little project Joe, as always. Couple of comment/questions:
1) I was a bit confused at the beginning when you mentioned that you needed the largest diameter that would keep the chuck jaws below the surface. With a conventional chuck it's smaller diameters that cause the jaws to protrude, does that chuck work backwards?
2) Wouldn't an angular contact bearing be a better choice for the outer bearing given it's under axial load?
2: It would be, if you had one in your parts box. Spending time/money to get one kind of defeats the purpose of doing a quick DIY build, I'd think.
Most drill chuck jaws will retract into the chuck body as the holding diameter gets bigger. I would like to see the kind you reference in your question.
@@joepie221 I also picked this up. I think you meant to say the SMALLEST diameter that could be chucked while still keeping the chuck jaws below the surface of the chuck. The largest diameter that would keep the chuck jaws below the surface would be the largest diameter you could fit into the chuck. As someone else commented, you need the chuck jaws as far forward as possible (within the chuck) to provide maximum support.
@@greybeardza9197 I respectfully disagree. I said largest because most all drill chuck jaws pull into the chuck body as the diameter of the drill increases. As jaws move forward, their holding capacity decreases and they protrude beyond the face of the drill chuck body.
@@joepie221 Sorry Joe. I'm still trying to understand this. You said, "Find the max diameter you can hold in the drill chuck with the jaws sub-surface. There will be one. Write that down." I have a 16mm chuck. If I put a 16mm drill into it, the jaws are sub- surface (I fact I can't even see them). But that is the max diameter I can put into the chuck with the jaws sub-surface. If I put a 10mm drill into the chuck, the jaws are just sub-surface. And with an 8mm drill the jaws protrude a little. Which figure must I write down? 16mm or 10mm?
Excellent video and info as always!!
Haven't commented in a while, but still watching your most excellent TH-cam channel Joe! From one teacher to another, cheers brother! 🍻
If my memory serves me correctly, you were the powered parachute pilot. Good to see you back.
Yessir! Been here all along. Just lurking around 😎.
Nice consideration for the snowbound guys. Well played.
So what supports the thrust load the bearings are placed under?
I was thinking of that myself. I think the answer is this: use cheap bearings so it doesn't hurt to replace them when they wear out.
It looks like this design puts the thrust load only on the first bearing (he said to make the shaft a slip fit to go inside the bearings, the thrust into the bearing is only from the shoulder) so you will likely only need to replace one at a time.
Great idea and interesting and useful little gadget Joe. Enjoyed watching, on the to make list! Cheers, Jon
What cool attachment to add to the tool box,,& very useful too. Off subject, now proud owner of a 1941 LeBlond regal 17, Model # D-6251. Will be showing it off on our channel as soon as she is leveled up, and transmission gears are inspected prior to use. Thx Joe for the live pressure center tip. Bear
Looking forward to seeing it.
Super idea if one does not already have a live center.
I made some adaptors which fit over my 60º live center and accomplish the same thing.
I have a bunch of pucks and funnels for my live center. They work great too.
At least one of the bearings should be angular contact type so that it can take the end thrust.
Oops Chris, you should reread your comment. See if you can figure out where you made your error. Or maybe rewatch the video. ;-)
@@wwilcox2726 I think I agree with Chris that there will be end thrust on these bearings.
@@mattphilip4595 if the inner bearing was an angular contact type it would not provide any additional axial thrust capacity, but it would be an angular contact type.
As based on the construction used in the video.
@@wwilcox2726 Irrespective of location, one of the bearings can absorb axial load as long as the shaft and mount are designed to transfer the force. Based on the Joe's example, the substitution of a spacer on the shaft between the two bearings, in lieu of the O.D. spacer, would convey axial force.
Chris is correct and I don't believe that you have figured this out ;-)
@@EDesigns_FL additionally, if the deeper bearing were the angular contact, and nothing else changed, the press fit of the radial bearing and spacer would prevent the angular bearing from coming apart.
Fantastic, Joe. I happened to have recently purchased qty 100 608-RS skate bearings for $0.18 ea. My other machinist buddies didn’t believe me when I said they come in handy for all sorts of things!
I keep a box full of them for replacing the blade guide rollers on my H/V band saw when they start getting crunchy from metal chips and coolant.
Hi Joe, i have made same as this but for 5" to 8" id pipes. Liked it very much
Love it !! I have to turn some Lexan sight glass inserts coming up.
Perfect.
apologies for not watching so much lately: but learnt MORE towards the end here:things one "knows" but doesn't think about - ie the spacer rings ID/OD dependent on application but NOT to link ID with OD ! "Oh any old bit pipe will do" - no it won't ! Jewel in the vid? goes to the end result: FLAT face workpiece holding! So tha's how it is done - OK for plastics - but even Aluminium ! Who'd have thunk it? Jo did thank you.
Depending on the setup, you can hold a variety of materials in many sizes this way. Pressure turning can be risky, so exercise caution.
@@joepie221 Indeed, just as a kwik reply:- I'll have to investigate = try with a thin RUBBER sheet for metals and maybe that liquid diamond pastte ( gripping paste for stubborn Pozi screws ). Of Course theirs always the Hot GLue and / or Super glue - but getting rid of the residue would cause as much grief. Axial load is of course dependent on the Bearings ratings and Pressure exerted on the workpiece. Thanks again
I've been thinking about this exact project. You confirmed a couple things that makes me more confident in doing it. I'm not a machinist by the way. More of a weekend warrior.
Good luck. This comment string has some very good observations. Read a few too.
@@joepie221 alright. Thansk Joe
The last live centers I made were a 4" diameter 45° (90° included) and one that mounted a drill chuck in place of the center tip.
Nice little project
great little practical tool and super presentation
Thank you.
Are you going to make a scaled down version, for the PM Research lathe?
Very good chance.
Hi Joe, I need to ask, that deburr or chamfer tool, did you grind that? I'm looking for something just like it
I made it years ago to deburr internal o"ring grooves and undercuts. It also works well on OD corners too.
@@joepie221 Thank you, looks like I'm hitting the grinder this morning then lol
@@joepie221 I was making note of that. A handy tool indeed.
6:50 Remember what you said earlier, about the part moving back in the collet? 😁
Perfect timing on this. I just bought myself a different lathe, offcourse the life centre was gone as the guy didnt use the machine for a few years. But ordering a new life centre with a mk5 cone costs a pretty penny and then on top of that most of those are HUGE. Now i might want a huge centre at some point, but mos of my jobs are actually pretty small. So i think im going to build this. Nice project to get to know my "new" lathe as wel.
Have fun.
Your videos are very much enjoyed. I've learned a lot from the machining content and the videography is excellent.
One suggestion I have is to start with a clip of the finished product so we can see where you're going. In this video, for instance, I had no idea what the individual parts were for and how their dimensions related to each other. Until the end.
Occasionally, I like it to be a surprise and compose the video as such, but I agree an opening shot of the final product could hold some attention. Good suggestion.
A tips and tricks video would be cool, I'd like to hear more about the razor blade. And maybe a shop tour of machinery? As if I'm not envious enough of just your skill and experience, lol
Shop tour : his video called spot the difference, or something
@@aaronhammond7297 Thanks.
I think this is the first time we saw the razor blade trick, but there might be an earlier example:
th-cam.com/video/8Z79i481QyI/w-d-xo.html
You appreciate us watching, feel like I should be the one being appreciative your kinda doing all of the work and I'm getting All the benefits. Idk this is a huge joint in my hand
Really elegant. Definitely gonna make one to replace my huge livecenter that always gets in the way.
Amazing idea, on my list of things to make this month.
Nice little centre Joe, here I was thinking it was for the model lathe. I was considering designing and making something like this, but the smaller size is very intriguing, might be a nice adaptation for a mini chuck in the tail stock as well. Thanks and cheers!
Made one very similar in about 1970 making double headed pennies(UK) but it went missing from the toolroom?
To all the armchair experts commenting on the use of 2 radial ball bearings. The tool is for occasional use only and on small parts, so longevity is not really an issue. The bearings are cheap as chips to replace in any case. Would you make a high duty cycle heavy load center this way? Of course not if for the simple reliance on a drill chuck for centering. Joe has probably forgotten more engineering than the "experts" ever learned.
Yes, and if you look you can get the ball bearings that have enhanced axial loading capacity as well, just in case you want to go full gorilla on them. But just using a size that is common means you can simply change them out when worn, which is easy enough.
Thanks for this Joe, I am a watch maker and have been needing a live center for my 8mm WW patern lathe tailstock. Now I just need to take the time, I have the bearings. Maybe after the first of the year.
Yes! A nice _little_ project shown in a *great* video.
Thanks.
Looks very handy. Thanks for the video Joe.
Thanks for the tip I made one but I made it for a rotary broach
Ditto Guns and Cars
I kind of wonder if those quoting tenths and hundredths have aligned their headstocks and tailstocks to equal precision let alone adjust headstock bearing preload. I would suggest incorporating one or two belleville washers into the design. Your bearings are fine for the intended use.
For real. On a lot of applications, things don't have to be dead nuts, distilled, inert gas, Kosher, Blessed, CARB approved, Executive order, act of God approved. Sometimes, we just need things to be better than you can do with a Ryobi Drill. Pushing the part against the chuck, and using a nice sharp tool will get you there.
Just yesterday I was thinking about another live center too. Only I was gonna do a Torrington bearing with hardened thrust washers between the holder and pushpiece.
G’day Joe. Nice little project. My second impression was damn that inner bearing will be difficult to remove when it fails but then a slip fit pin, grease and a few hits with a hammer will hydraulic the bearing out.
A handy piece to have in the toolbox.
Cheers
Peter
When the inner bearing fails, you will be dead and gone....
That is a great couple of hours in the shop and a useful tool as a result.
I think its a must for model makers.
Thanks for sharing! A nice project
If I any make a suggestion, you should try using water as a coolant when machining 316 stainless. I am a Steamfitter and a millwright suggested using water when drilling holes to me one time. It made it easier and did not dull the drill. When I had to thread some 316 pipe I emptied the cutting oil from the reservoir on the Ridgid 535 and the threads came out much better than with oil and water only allows the part to get to 212 degrees
James I was taught the same thing from an old toolmaker years ago. When reaming a hole use water! It really works for dowel pin holes and such. A hole that's got to be dead on I always use water. I work in the Die industry so I use this a lot!!
@@joeziegler9054 Can you use something like water with some Koolmist 77 in it or should it be plain water? I was thinking of buying some Koolmist and making up a spray bottle to manually apply coolant. They claim it helps prevent rust.
Thanks for the Info. Makes sense. I stumbled into using Kool-mist via accident of water in my oil bath for knurling aluminum 6061. Had to turn OIL off and a different setup. the flakes in the knurl were like night and day.
Nice one.... was going to buy a small live centre for the tailstock taper attachment i made, after watching this why not make one.... Thanks Joe
I am going to scale this up as I have a need for a 3" live bell center thanks for the video🤗🤗
If you go bigger, use tapered bearings like the kind found in car front hub assemblies.
Nicely done, sir. I always enjoy your videos - it's like coming to class when you actually enjoy the topic. Hope all is well! - Tom Z
Brilliant Joe - absolutely brilliant. Thanks
Awesome project and very well presented, thank you Joe 👍
It was a great idea to have the center interchangeable
For this application wouldn't a thrust bearing be more appropriate for the axial loads it's taking??
Yes.
Joe, I would love to see a video on making a collet nut with an internal bearing surface along with a discussion as to why that configuration is beneficial.
Joe when you get 3xl size I will order one. Great looking shirts.
I've had requests for 3X. I'm ordering some next week. Probably only black initially. watch for the web options to change next week.