Thank you! Still helping people with your vids. I just fired up my 71 after MAJOR restoration work...and boom! Oil gauge stuck. I will be taking it out tomorrow, thanks to you. Since C19...prices are through the roof on these parts. Hopefully, I can fix it!
Clock in my '77 hasn't worked in over 12 years. Finally took it apart thinking it was an electrical issue. Nope. A little bit of gun oil and it is running just fine.
I have a c3 and this is the best info I have been able to find about non working gauges. Thank you soooo much!!! I just signed up as a new subscriber. 😺
I like your videos. I would just recomend to use WD40 just to clean. The acid in WD40 is what loosens the corrosion. But in the long run it damages the metal of the instruments. For Instruments I use contact spray to loose corrosion and elektronic cleaner to clean and silicon oil to grease. Silicon oil contains no acids and does not transforminto some glue like reasin over time, plus dust does not stick to it. With WD 40 and mineral oil you have to redo the job much sooner.
Like always you videos are impressive. Thanks for taking the time to show us all this. Do you have a video on how to remove the speedometer. Mine on my 77 is doing the same thing as yours. But i don't know how to take it off. Tia. 😊
The video is titled dashboard removal. Something like that I remove it in that video it's not easy, you might want to think about lowering the steering column which I never did
Great and helpful video! I recently bought a '70 Corvette and speedometer doesn't work at all although it's connected on both ends...I think cable is probably bad. My clock works sometimes and my oil pressure gauge works but I think oil pressure is actually higher than gauge shows. Question: How hard is it to pull speedometer out from dash? Thanks for posting this video! Van
It’s hard, apparently you can lower the steering column which helps. I have a video on how to remove it without lowering the steering column. Engine Harness, Headlight Harness Dashboard Removal Troubleshooting electrical problems Corvette C3
Actually, you can rejuvenate the electrical gauges. At least for "permanently lubricated" brushless motors on later gauges do the following, or anything else with a permanent lube system. More simple motor designs might just require putting a drop of 3-in-1 on the bearings. Remove the needle and anything else needed to have full access to the front of the drive motor. Put a couple CCs of tractor oil, or the thickest stuff you can pull, into a syringe with the tip removed. place the syringe over the motor shaft, mating up to the body of the motor, and pull sightly back on the plunger to pull the air out of the motor bearing area. There should be resistance, and an elastic pull to the plunger. If not, you do not have a good seal or this method won't work. You want to displace all the air that has replaced the permanent lubrication, and replace it with fresh thick oil. Grease would be preferable, but grease is too viscous to drip, except in huge quantities. The 3-in-1 the poster calls grease may even work, although it is a bit thin. In fact, I would use the tractor oil, or a good quality white lithium grease if you can have access, to most of these parts.
Whatever you do don’t get any oil on or touch the black face plate. Everything removes the black. I have a gauge that needed touch up before installation because the paint rubbed off. Don’t touch or get anything on them.
I love you buddy, but I'm a watchmaker. Put down the oil and step away from the clock. 😂 Seriously, rules of thumb: oil the bushings and bearings (things that rotate), grease the parts that rub. And don't put anything on the teeth of the gears, because they don't wear unless the bearings and bushings are not working. And grease creates drag, robbing your clock motor of valuable horsepower. Organic oil degrades into powdery greasy glue after a decade or so. Hopefully 3n1 and WD40 are fully synthetic. One drop is enough for lubricating a bearing. It migrates to everything if you put too much on.
Here's a link to my first C3 repair video. In it, I am repairing the clock as you do, and then something goes terribly wrong! th-cam.com/video/fm3h91MI8yQ/w-d-xo.html
Good job again! I just wish you would learn the proper names for things. You OIL the gauge works, not grease, it say 3n1 Oil right on the can. And that’s an excellent oil to use too. The brass flat tube on the back of the oil pressure gauge is a bourdon tube, it works just like a standard pressure gauge. I’m quite surprised that you were able to get that one going again, it was really messed up!
Total misunderstanding of how the clock works. It's going to stop working again. It's a mechanically wound clock. A small set of points trips an electromagnet to rewind the clock every few minutes. Your 12 volts powers the electromagnet not constant electric movement of the clock. You need to clean the points and/or rewind/resolder the electromagnet.
I am covering the mechanical part of the clock the gears spinning, yes there is an electromagnet that rewind it but when the gears are all dry none of that will work. As long as the electromagnet works and the gears are lubricated everything will work, you could have a perfectly working electromagnet but if the gears are seized it won’t do anything. Sorry I’m drinking right now so my response might not be perfect
Yes, I still understand what you're trying to say through your drunken explanation but in the video the clocks gears always worked and you show yourself hooking up a battery to the clock, pointing to it and saying "look it's working now". At that point it is not working because it is hooked up to the battery. It just means that the points and electromagnet have managed to fire successfully and rewound the clock. The battery is only powering that electromagnet to fire off once every (aprox) 2 minutes and 20 seconds. This way there is not a constant 12 volt draw. Only when you hear the click. When the electromagnet stops working it fails to rewind the clock so the clock stops. The points remain closed and begin a constant drain on your battery. Dry gears will not require any more energy from the battery and you never show a scenario where the gears in your clock have seized. I'm not saying that it's not possible for those gears to seize. I'm saying that yours haven't and that it's likely that they never will. It's more probable that the points and/or electromagnet is/are getting lazy and more unreliable. Eventually they will not fire and therefore not rewind the clock. All I'm saying is...if it fails again soon (and I know it will), rewind/resolder the armature and clean the points. It won't fail again for years and won't create a parasitic battery drain. @@ProblemSolverGarage
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Thank you! Still helping people with your vids. I just fired up my 71 after MAJOR restoration work...and boom! Oil gauge stuck. I will be taking it out tomorrow, thanks to you. Since C19...prices are through the roof on these parts. Hopefully, I can fix it!
You are the man, I fixed my clock, oil, oil, oil!!!!! My 75 Vette now has a working clock!
Nice 👍
Nothing like a little of Wille Davis 40 to get things lubed and moving again! A mechanics best friend and one of the worlds best products.
Sure is, I love the stuff
Clock in my '77 hasn't worked in over 12 years. Finally took it apart thinking it was an electrical issue. Nope. A little bit of gun oil and it is running just fine.
Nice 👍
The Corvette journey is amazing! Thank you for sharing yours. On mine right now!
I love that you aren't quick to throw good stuff away....you just repair the original (and better parts in my opinion)! You're awesome!
Thanks and good luck with your project
took it out...and fixed it just like you showed us! THANK YOU!
It is a huge satisfaction to fix things this way!
I agree
I have a c3 and this is the best info I have been able to find about non working gauges. Thank you soooo much!!! I just signed up as a new subscriber. 😺
Love all your videos. I’m restoring a 72 and you’ve been super super helpful.
Thx
I like your videos. I would just recomend to use WD40 just to clean. The acid in WD40 is what loosens the corrosion. But in the long run it damages the metal of the instruments. For Instruments I use contact spray to loose corrosion and elektronic cleaner to clean and silicon oil to grease. Silicon oil contains no acids and does not transforminto some glue like reasin over time, plus dust does not stick to it. With WD 40 and mineral oil you have to redo the job much sooner.
good advise. besides, WD40 in the long run may turn sticky.
Which silicone oil do you suggest?
I’m restoring a 69 , these videos are perfect for me !
Thanks for watching 👍
Gonna be doing this to my 77 camaro when i start swapping my interior from one to the other.
Nice, It’s totally works
Top video! I have to do all of this things when I take my dash apart. Thanks for all the help!
No problem, thanks for watching 👍
Love your content. Loads of information.
Thanks man appreciate the positive feedback and all you guys watching my videos :)
Speechless ...all your info!
Thank you
Np thx 🙏🏻
Great dyi videos.....great lighting.....easy to follow.... thanks 😊
Thanks appreciate the positive feedback
Thanks buddy.your videos are very helpful.
Thx 👍
Amazing what some maintenance will produce.
Yes everything works great now
Awesome as usual. those clocks are like $150 to replace, just a good clean and lube and back to work.
👍
Like always you videos are impressive. Thanks for taking the time to show us all this.
Do you have a video on how to remove the speedometer. Mine on my 77 is doing the same thing as yours. But i don't know how to take it off. Tia. 😊
The video is titled dashboard removal. Something like that I remove it in that video it's not easy, you might want to think about lowering the steering column which I never did
Great vid. I have a 73 and when i put my high beams on they flicker. My low beams work fine. Any ideas
Hard to say wish I could help you more
Great video
bud
Thx 🙏🏻
Great and helpful video! I recently bought a '70 Corvette and speedometer doesn't work at all although it's connected on both ends...I think cable is probably bad. My clock works sometimes and my oil pressure gauge works but I think oil pressure is actually higher than gauge shows.
Question: How hard is it to pull speedometer out from dash?
Thanks for posting this video!
Van
It’s hard, apparently you can lower the steering column which helps. I have a video on how to remove it without lowering the steering column. Engine Harness, Headlight Harness Dashboard Removal Troubleshooting electrical problems Corvette C3
@@ProblemSolverGarage Thanks so much! I'll look for that video. Always hate pulling a dash apart...
Sounds like dash in the 79 I inherited. All the gauges read good, until you realize the read the same whether or not it’s running. Lol
you are so awesome! I loveee your channel! Thanks so much!!!
Thank you 🙏🏻
Got to do that to my clock , thanks
👍
I did mine in my 1975, now it works!!!!
Great video on how to fix the gauges, but where's the video on removing the panels to get to the gauge cluster? My oil pressure gauge is seized, too.
Here it is th-cam.com/video/U0KtTZ1Y_ew/w-d-xo.html
Actually, you can rejuvenate the electrical gauges. At least for "permanently lubricated" brushless motors on later gauges do the following, or anything else with a permanent lube system. More simple motor designs might just require putting a drop of 3-in-1 on the bearings.
Remove the needle and anything else needed to have full access to the front of the drive motor. Put a couple CCs of tractor oil, or the thickest stuff you can pull, into a syringe with the tip removed. place the syringe over the motor shaft, mating up to the body of the motor, and pull sightly back on the plunger to pull the air out of the motor bearing area. There should be resistance, and an elastic pull to the plunger. If not, you do not have a good seal or this method won't work. You want to displace all the air that has replaced the permanent lubrication, and replace it with fresh thick oil. Grease would be preferable, but grease is too viscous to drip, except in huge quantities. The 3-in-1 the poster calls grease may even work, although it is a bit thin. In fact, I would use the tractor oil, or a good quality white lithium grease if you can have access, to most of these parts.
Would white lithium grease spray be better for the speedometer for the long term?
I don’t know what that is
@@ProblemSolverGarage Do a search for CRC white lithium grease spray. It takes a long, long time to stop lubricating.
you are good😉
Thanks and thanks for watching
@@ProblemSolverGarage thank you for doing this as this is very useful for many people honestly massive thanks
I mentioned your channel in my c3 video as a c3 resource if you don't mind
Ya No problem
Nice! Do you have anything on how to test the other gauges? The Fuel, Water Temp and Battery gauges?
In most cases you just hook up 12 V to them, I’m doing an episode on the temperature gauge right now
@@ProblemSolverGarage great thanks! Can’t wait to see it. Keep up the great videos (on the Vette) 😁
My battery gauge does not seem to be working correctly. maybe your video will help me solve the issue
Check out my fuse box video it might be that
@@ProblemSolverGarage Thanks. I’ll check those fuses.
Thanks
Whatever you do don’t get any oil on or touch the black face plate. Everything removes the black. I have a gauge that needed touch up before installation because the paint rubbed off. Don’t touch or get anything on them.
you've helped me so much with my c3...and I'm a girl! haha Thank you!
Lol 😂
😊😊😊😊😊
Don't add petroleum based product to plastic gears. They will break down.
I love you buddy, but I'm a watchmaker. Put down the oil and step away from the clock. 😂
Seriously, rules of thumb: oil the bushings and bearings (things that rotate), grease the parts that rub. And don't put anything on the teeth of the gears, because they don't wear unless the bearings and bushings are not working. And grease creates drag, robbing your clock motor of valuable horsepower. Organic oil degrades into powdery greasy glue after a decade or so. Hopefully 3n1 and WD40 are fully synthetic. One drop is enough for lubricating a bearing. It migrates to everything if you put too much on.
Well….just saved 200$. Pulled the clock -oiled and there you go - good as new.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback :)
Here's a link to my first C3 repair video. In it, I am repairing the clock as you do, and then something goes terribly wrong!
th-cam.com/video/fm3h91MI8yQ/w-d-xo.html
So is "grease" spelt O I L now?
Good job again! I just wish you would learn the proper names for things. You OIL the gauge works, not grease, it say 3n1 Oil right on the can. And that’s an excellent oil to use too. The brass flat tube on the back of the oil pressure gauge is a bourdon tube, it works just like a standard pressure gauge. I’m quite surprised that you were able to get that one going again, it was really messed up!
Yeah I’m Polish, I don’t know the names of nothing LOL
I have a 81 and it's electric not no oil don't help me
Total misunderstanding of how the clock works. It's going to stop working again. It's a mechanically wound clock. A small set of points trips an electromagnet to rewind the clock every few minutes. Your 12 volts powers the electromagnet not constant electric movement of the clock. You need to clean the points and/or rewind/resolder the electromagnet.
I am covering the mechanical part of the clock the gears spinning, yes there is an electromagnet that rewind it but when the gears are all dry none of that will work. As long as the electromagnet works and the gears are lubricated everything will work, you could have a perfectly working electromagnet but if the gears are seized it won’t do anything.
Sorry I’m drinking right now so my response might not be perfect
Yes, I still understand what you're trying to say through your drunken explanation but in the video the clocks gears always worked and you show yourself hooking up a battery to the clock, pointing to it and saying "look it's working now". At that point it is not working because it is hooked up to the battery. It just means that the points and electromagnet have managed to fire successfully and rewound the clock. The battery is only powering that electromagnet to fire off once every (aprox) 2 minutes and 20 seconds. This way there is not a constant 12 volt draw. Only when you hear the click. When the electromagnet stops working it fails to rewind the clock so the clock stops. The points remain closed and begin a constant drain on your battery. Dry gears will not require any more energy from the battery and you never show a scenario where the gears in your clock have seized. I'm not saying that it's not possible for those gears to seize. I'm saying that yours haven't and that it's likely that they never will. It's more probable that the points and/or electromagnet is/are getting lazy and more unreliable. Eventually they will not fire and therefore not rewind the clock. All I'm saying is...if it fails again soon (and I know it will), rewind/resolder the armature and clean the points. It won't fail again for years and won't create a parasitic battery drain.
@@ProblemSolverGarage
Ok 👍
,,
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