This was so helpful, Thanks, Mike. Hey separate matter, my 72 Corvette is really struggling to start when it's cold. It takes many cranks for it to finally start, almost to the point to where it sounds like the battery is starting to slow down. However, if you spray starting fluid in it prior, fires right up first crank. I have check the choke, (Rochester Quad), seems to be operating fine. I have changed fuel pump, operating fine. Car gets plenty of fuel and drives strong once started, so scratching my head a bit. Also, not sure if these are connected, but after driving for a while and up to temp, and stop say for lunch for 1 hour or so, once get back in fires right back up no problem. BUT, say I stop for gas and engine is off for 5-10 mins, once I try and fire back up, it almost sounds and feels as if it's flooded and barely starts. It spins and spins trying to start, and it finally gets going and have to really give it gas to fire back up. I researched, something called hot start? Ever run into anything like these? Thanks, love the vids!
Hi Westley, Thanks, glad it was helpful. Your issue could be related to too much ignition advance for both cold and hot start. It could also be a weak ignition coil. It also could be a weak battery or alternator not providing enough energy to the ignition circuit. Hope that's useful to you. Good luck.
Thanks for the video. What if when you get the mechanical part open and the contacts where you slide down to get everything moving are stuck together, almost like it took a surge and made a small weld. I pried apart pushed down where you did, but nothing. I'm not sure what angle that contact arm should be at mine is at about 9 o'clock or straight out to the left looking from behind. My solenoid wire is not broke. So I guess I'm asking what should I do if my mechanical portion is inoperative. Trash and by new clock??
It sounds like the mechanical portion may have gotten contaminated (dirt, dust). Electricity doesn't flow through that part, so it shouldn't be welded. The armature wire is also too thin to support an arc. I'd suggest trying to clean it with sewing machine oil and blast with canned air. If you can't get it to work then sell it on ebay because it is usually the coil that fails. Or buy one with a bad coil and rebuild it. Good luck and don't get discouraged. This is pretty fragile stuff.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Your help is so appreciative Thank you. Finished your advice above and my clocks mechinacal side works now, but temporally. It cycles for approximately 10 minutes and stays closed and stops. i have noticed that my battery voltage has been drained when this happens anywhere from 14vdc to 7vdc. When I disconnect the ground it starts running again as above 10 minutes at a time. The only thing I can think to do know is either change the coil or put it back in the case and see if it's just not making a good connection out of the housing. Thanks again for your knowledge.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks again. thats kinda what i was thinking with the outer case off not making a good ground. Also i was using an old battery with a charger on it.
This was so helpful, Thanks, Mike. Hey separate matter, my 72 Corvette is really struggling to start when it's cold. It takes many cranks for it to finally start, almost to the point to where it sounds like the battery is starting to slow down. However, if you spray starting fluid in it prior, fires right up first crank. I have check the choke, (Rochester Quad), seems to be operating fine. I have changed fuel pump, operating fine. Car gets plenty of fuel and drives strong once started, so scratching my head a bit. Also, not sure if these are connected, but after driving for a while and up to temp, and stop say for lunch for 1 hour or so, once get back in fires right back up no problem. BUT, say I stop for gas and engine is off for 5-10 mins, once I try and fire back up, it almost sounds and feels as if it's flooded and barely starts. It spins and spins trying to start, and it finally gets going and have to really give it gas to fire back up. I researched, something called hot start? Ever run into anything like these? Thanks, love the vids!
Hi Westley,
Thanks, glad it was helpful.
Your issue could be related to too much ignition advance for both cold and hot start. It could also be a weak ignition coil. It also could be a weak battery or alternator not providing enough energy to the ignition circuit.
Hope that's useful to you. Good luck.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks, Mike. I hadnt thought of the coil. I'll check that out along with the advance. Thanks!
What type and gauge wire di you use to rewind the solenoid
Thanks for the video. What if when you get the mechanical part open and the contacts where you slide down to get everything moving are stuck together, almost like it took a surge and made a small weld. I pried apart pushed down where you did, but nothing. I'm not sure what angle that contact arm should be at mine is at about 9 o'clock or straight out to the left looking from behind. My solenoid wire is not broke. So I guess I'm asking what should I do if my mechanical portion is inoperative. Trash and by new clock??
It sounds like the mechanical portion may have gotten contaminated (dirt, dust). Electricity doesn't flow through that part, so it shouldn't be welded. The armature wire is also too thin to support an arc.
I'd suggest trying to clean it with sewing machine oil and blast with canned air. If you can't get it to work then sell it on ebay because it is usually the coil that fails. Or buy one with a bad coil and rebuild it.
Good luck and don't get discouraged. This is pretty fragile stuff.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Your help is so appreciative Thank you. Finished your advice above and my clocks mechinacal side works now, but temporally. It cycles for approximately 10 minutes and stays closed and stops. i have noticed that my battery voltage has been drained when this happens anywhere from 14vdc to 7vdc. When I disconnect the ground it starts running again as above 10 minutes at a time. The only thing I can think to do know is either change the coil or put it back in the case and see if it's just not making a good connection out of the housing. Thanks again for your knowledge.
@larrystehr4835 it could be a bad ground. However, draining the battery 7 volts might mean you have a weak battery and it might not be your clock.
@@MikeHammill-TheShop Thanks again. thats kinda what i was thinking with the outer case off not making a good ground. Also i was using an old battery with a charger on it.
@larrystehr4835 the clock should not run down the battery for a week or more.
What year C3 was this?
Its a 1972