Just made my three improvements today for my table saw's dust collection. For the miter slot on the front, I used Velcro, more specifically, a series of tabs fixed by Velcro. They attach to the opposite velcro strips neatly set along the arcing miter space. So, if I only need a 15 degree cut, I remove one tab; 30 degree, three tabs, etc. If I make a 45 degree cut, I replace the tabs to the left of my gauge. My second move was to stuff taped six-inch rolls of bunched up plastic grocery bags into the gaps between the cast iron table top and the cabinet. For my Harvey, this was pretty much all around the top of the cabinet. Third, I drilled a line of holes parallel to blade of the zero-clearance insert so the overhead blade guard-dust collector and the below table suction pipe work together better. See Hooked on Wood to see the HOW zero-clearance plate that Dennis engineered. Don't forget that the motor needs some cooling air, so leave some air to come in.
I also tried different things to block the miter slot. The best I found was a cut piece of closed cell grey foam medium density. Stuff it in the slot when not making any miter cuts, remove it when you do. Super easy and effective.
Watched your video today , inspired me to test my own system ,Thanks ! I've tried similar modifications with the (2014) Discontinued Shop Fox W1819 saw, over the years. This is my set-up; 10ft flex hose, 5 inch all the way, Oneida Super Dust Deputy (metal 5 in) Shop fox 1.5 Hp Dust collector,12 inch impeller ,Hepa canister filter, standard throat plate. With the blade height set at 1.5 in , set the Anemometer directly front of the blade, on the cast iron top where it meets the throat plate......about 2in from the blade itself. With saw running, wind speed coming off the blade ~826 ft/m What follows next is truly remarkable.....I turn on the dust collector and the wind speed goes from 826 ft/min down to................zero......full stop, and then anemometer reversed direction and read 118 ft/min back into the table saw.These are the raw numbers as read on the anemometer. It does not get any better then this ! Zero clearance throat plates defeat dust collection cause you need to maximize the negative velocity air across the spinning blade. I have sealed up all the holes next to the cast iron top as well as the interior floor. The side vents need to be open so air can move across the motor and into the dust collector.
I have noticed similar and have put holes in the zero clearance plate to get positive pressure up at the bade. I am working now on a duct inside the saw (conceptually) to take side inlet air to the blade chamber, for that very reason.
Thanks for the clear approach to table saw dust collection! I'm in the process of installing a whole shop dust collection system in a new house and will use your ideas on my Powermatic cabinet saw.
This has only just come up for me to view as I’m looking for all ideas to improve dust collection in my semi-commercial shop. Very good video backed up by facts and not just assumptions. I can see I’ve been doing a couple of things wrong and will go back to correct them. I’ve got a large3 phase collector and am finally installing the 200mm spiral ductwork instead of having flexible hose everywhere. In fairness, I moved onto this shop a year ago and really wanted to get a feel of machine placement before I committed to fixed ducting.
Great content! Definite improvements. Thinking out loud, I do wonder about restricting the flow too much, if that actually reduces collection efficiency and causes dust to build in the collection tubing?
Great video, thx for doing the testing instead of the brush 3m has some Gap stop its for doors widows and so on, its flexible it goes back to form thx again
Try putting a door sweep top & bottom. This will help more. And for the corners expanding foam cut it and shape it. And for your vent, attach door sweep as well.
For now, I have switched to a magnet for the front. I like the idea of foam for the corners. I have never revisited the vent as it appears redundant...I have just left it covered. I am toying with adding a dedicated air inlet source by the blade.
Yes i would add one there as well. There serveral good videos out there. I just have a tablesaw and will be blocking everything and adding a 16 gallon shopvac with a cyclone and a hepa filter & bag. And attach this at both ports. Hopefully this will stop reduce the dust. Noting worse than finishing cutting and cleaning a shop with dust everywhere drives me mad.
In lieu of the plastic fingers, one of the wood working suppliers made a magnetic hole cover for the table saw that allows easy installation and removal when you need it. I can’t remember who it is right now but it worked so well I left it on my craftsman saw. I need to get one of the anemometer you use, got it from Amazon? Great video I and I have already done some of your ideas and I will continue to look at more of them.
If you cut a piece of foam a little bigger than your miter slot you can squeeze it into the offending orifice to block it, then just remove it when you need to tilt your blade. I don't have the proper testing equipment but I think it might block more than the brush sweep.
I attacked this issue also to make certain any table saw could benefit from some form of dust collection. Check out deluxe table saw here on TH-cam at joes shop. Keep up the good work!!
I just got my brand spanking new Laguna Fusion 3 cabinet saw set up. And it basically has the same dust collection issues as your saw. And my chip collector only has half of the required CFM. So, I am implementing your ideas here. But I have to ask, what are those "moustaches" you put on the inside of the blade tilt slit called? Oh, and the quality of your videos and what you make is 100k+ channel material. I am shouting out your channel in my next video, that is for sure. Cheers.
They are "door sweeps". Most hardware stores sell them. I found the adhesive to be lacking, so I went back to tape until I can get a magnet sheet that I can simply put on and off as needed. If you can't find them, email me and I will share a link to them.
Amazon, look for "uxcell Self-Adhesive Door Bottom Sweep White Plastic w 2-inch Black PVC Soft Brush 39-inch x 2.9-inch" but I took it off and just use a magnet now.
Great Video. Thanks so much for your efforts. I am curious, as you block off the various openings do you have any concern regarding the impact on your dust collector itself? I wonder if the added resistance might cause your unit to overheat.
My system is not so tight that I have to worry, though one way to test would be to gather CFM numbers at the exhaust to verify. The better solution is to put a port from the side of the say to the blade chamber to allow more fresh air into that area. I will be showing that in the future.
Adding resistance to the flow, or using smaller ducting means less air is being moved and the motor is doing less work and using fewer watts of electricity. The motor on the dust collector can run faster as well, increasing the efficiency. You can test this with a shop vac and a Kill-A-Watt meter. Turn on the vac and check the meter running normally, then block the hose and the motor will increase speed because it isn't moving any air and the meter will show less power being consumed.
I have a Jet 10" Hybrid TS. My issue is after doing similar taping off measures, I still do not see adequate removal of sawdust from inside the cabinet. I sure would like to get a hold of a flowmeter like yours to see the CFM of my vacuum. Now don't hate me. I am using the Harbor Freight vacuum that sales for $200 plus. Seems to have good flow. It sucks but not enough?
Well, I am in Virginia, if you are close we can take a look. Also, look for more openings. Some saws I have looked at have hard to find leaks. The meter was cheap enough, though mine is old as the hills and from back when I flew kites.
@@Blueridgedog I am in Omaha Nebraska. I think it may be that the exhaust port placement is more the issue. It is on the back and the saw motor is real close to the port and I feel is blocking the flow to a degree.
Nice vid, and great improvements for your dust collection. Have you considered getting a blade guard with a dust collection point as well? Cheers and thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I have and may in the event that I end up getting a dedicated rip table saw. Currently I have to change this one out so frequently (blades) that I have avoided it.
@@Blueridgedog Is it a hassle to change the riving knife on that saw? I have a fairly new jobsite saw, and knife change is literally a 3 second job. But man, I still want a proper cabinet saw.
@@anyfoolknowthat It is really nice to have the quick change function between riving knife and blade guard. I have that on my new Laguna Fusion 3 cabinet saw as well. Love it :D
I tested that! It does, so if you are cutting small stock where a part of the plate is exposed, it helps, but for anything else, the holes are covered by the stock and the only air input comes from the kerf. I think you can see holes in the plate on test video at the end.
I have nearly the same saw...G0123RLW and it’s dust collection is horrible. I’ve previously blocked off the front, the corners, and also the gap in between the saws top and cabinet base. Everytime I use it, I’m covered in saw dust. I notice you have a zero clearance insert. Does that seem to help as well? Also curious on your dust Collector setup? I guess I need to truly test my cfm’s. I’m running a shop Fox 1685 collector through roughly 30’ of pvc to about 6’ of flex hose connected to the saw.
I think the zero clearance insert helps, especially with side cuts or small cuts, but ultimately the insert is covered most of the time. I would test your cfm at the hose. I have about the same run length as you, but my dust collector is a large Pen cyclone.
Why don’t you make a two piece closeout panel, that attaches with magnet for the front? This way you could reposition them when cutting at an angle, for maximum coverage.
Nice tips for DC improvement. Thanks for taking the time for your experiments. I did see in an old Wood Magazine article (I have saved a binder full) about someone doing a test with a modified ZC throat plate. The theory is that the bulk of dust on top of the saw comes from the rear of the blade kicking up dust towards you as it spins. What the guy did was to make a much bigger opening in the throat plate, but only on the rear section of the kerf, say a 1/4" to 1/2" slot, about one inch or so long. That way, you keep the benefits of the ZC insert (chip tear out reduction) on the front end. I am curious if you have tried anything similar. I have never seen any videos showing this tip, or if even has any benefit.
I did experiment drilling some holes in the zero clearance fence. It helps, but when cutting anything of size, the holes get covered up and the only air inlet is the saw kerf. My next approach will be to run a 1" duct line from the side to the back of the blade, so the vacuum can be relived and flow can happen.
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Just made my three improvements today for my table saw's dust collection. For the miter slot on the front, I used Velcro, more specifically, a series of tabs fixed by Velcro. They attach to the opposite velcro strips neatly set along the arcing miter space. So, if I only need a 15 degree cut, I remove one tab; 30 degree, three tabs, etc. If I make a 45 degree cut, I replace the tabs to the left of my gauge. My second move was to stuff taped six-inch rolls of bunched up plastic grocery bags into the gaps between the cast iron table top and the cabinet. For my Harvey, this was pretty much all around the top of the cabinet. Third, I drilled a line of holes parallel to blade of the zero-clearance insert so the overhead blade guard-dust collector and the below table suction pipe work together better. See Hooked on Wood to see the HOW zero-clearance plate that Dennis engineered. Don't forget that the motor needs some cooling air, so leave some air to come in.
I also tried different things to block the miter slot. The best I found was a cut piece of closed cell grey foam medium density. Stuff it in the slot when not making any miter cuts, remove it when you do. Super easy and effective.
Fantastic idea.
Watched your video today , inspired me to test my own system ,Thanks !
I've tried similar modifications with the (2014) Discontinued Shop Fox W1819 saw, over the years.
This is my set-up; 10ft flex hose, 5 inch all the way, Oneida Super Dust Deputy (metal 5 in) Shop fox 1.5 Hp Dust collector,12 inch impeller ,Hepa canister filter, standard throat plate.
With the blade height set at 1.5 in , set the Anemometer directly front of the blade, on the cast iron top where it meets the throat plate......about 2in from the blade itself.
With saw running, wind speed coming off the blade ~826 ft/m
What follows next is truly remarkable.....I turn on the dust collector and the wind speed goes from 826 ft/min down to................zero......full stop, and then anemometer reversed direction and read 118 ft/min back into the table saw.These are the raw numbers as read on the anemometer. It does not get any better then this !
Zero clearance throat plates defeat dust collection cause you need to maximize the negative velocity air across the spinning blade.
I have sealed up all the holes next to the cast iron top as well as the interior floor.
The side vents need to be open so air can move across the motor and into the dust collector.
I have noticed similar and have put holes in the zero clearance plate to get positive pressure up at the bade. I am working now on a duct inside the saw (conceptually) to take side inlet air to the blade chamber, for that very reason.
I closed mine off with pieces of “refrigerator magnet”. Nice testing.
Brilliant! Easy to adjust too
Thanks for the clear approach to table saw dust collection! I'm in the process of installing a whole shop dust collection system in a new house and will use your ideas on my Powermatic cabinet saw.
Just had to throw in "Powermatic cabinet saw" didn't you...lol
You pretentious type are funny. Soooo desperate to appear relevant ;)
This has only just come up for me to view as I’m looking for all ideas to improve dust collection in my semi-commercial shop. Very good video backed up by facts and not just assumptions. I can see I’ve been doing a couple of things wrong and will go back to correct them.
I’ve got a large3 phase collector and am finally installing the 200mm spiral ductwork instead of having flexible hose everywhere. In fairness, I moved onto this shop a year ago and really wanted to get a feel of machine placement before I committed to fixed ducting.
Great video and breakdown! Thanks for the content and tips!👊
Great content! Definite improvements. Thinking out loud, I do wonder about restricting the flow too much, if that actually reduces collection efficiency and causes dust to build in the collection tubing?
Exactly the information I was looking for, presented clearly. Many thanks.
I use magnetic sign material on the front. Works great. Notch it around the crank.
I too have switched to a magnetic sheet. Simple and effective.
Thanks! It's good to take a fresh look at dust collection in small shops. I appreciate your content; Keep it Up!
Magnetic sheets also work great for closing off the gap in the front of the saw.
Brilliant idea. I am working on just some sheet stock with magnets as the brush adhesive is not as strong as I would like.
James micro jig has a cut to size magnet. Just move it when needed
Good idea. I have a few refrigerator magnets I'll test to see if they stay in place during several cutting jobs.
Great video, thx for doing the testing instead of the brush 3m has some Gap stop its for doors widows and so on, its flexible it goes back to form thx again
Try putting a door sweep top & bottom. This will help more. And for the corners expanding foam cut it and shape it. And for your vent, attach door sweep as well.
For now, I have switched to a magnet for the front. I like the idea of foam for the corners. I have never revisited the vent as it appears redundant...I have just left it covered. I am toying with adding a dedicated air inlet source by the blade.
Yes i would add one there as well. There serveral good videos out there. I just have a tablesaw and will be blocking everything and adding a 16 gallon shopvac with a cyclone and a hepa filter & bag. And attach this at both ports. Hopefully this will stop reduce the dust. Noting worse than finishing cutting and cleaning a shop with dust everywhere drives me mad.
Very well done, Thanks for the info... Is the bottom of the cabinet and under the table top also closed off?
In lieu of the plastic fingers, one of the wood working suppliers made a magnetic hole cover for the table saw that allows easy installation and removal when you need it. I can’t remember who it is right now but it worked so well I left it on my craftsman saw. I need to get one of the anemometer you use, got it from Amazon?
Great video I and I have already done some of your ideas and I will continue to look at more of them.
Indeed...magnetic cover is the way to go. I got the anemometer from the manufacture years and years ago when I made kites commercially.
The newer version of the Delta Unisaw solved the problem of the open slot for the tilt mechanism by making the hand wheel stationary.
Nice work! What an improvement.
What about the opening on the side where the motor sticks out when it is tilted??
Most cabinet saws have that area enclosed, at least the ones I have worked with.
If you cut a piece of foam a little bigger than your miter slot you can squeeze it into the offending orifice to block it, then just remove it when you need to tilt your blade. I don't have the proper testing equipment but I think it might block more than the brush sweep.
That is a fantastic idea and I think it would work better than my current magnet sheet.
I attacked this issue also to make certain any table saw could benefit from some form of dust collection. Check out deluxe table saw here on TH-cam at joes shop. Keep up the good work!!
Your dog. :) Thanks for the data.
Thanks man. He passed a few weeks ago. You can probably tell in the Lantern Cabinet video he was moving slow. Thanks for the love for the pup!
I just got my brand spanking new Laguna Fusion 3 cabinet saw set up. And it basically has the same dust collection issues as your saw. And my chip collector only has half of the required CFM. So, I am implementing your ideas here. But I have to ask, what are those "moustaches" you put on the inside of the blade tilt slit called?
Oh, and the quality of your videos and what you make is 100k+ channel material. I am shouting out your channel in my next video, that is for sure.
Cheers.
They are "door sweeps". Most hardware stores sell them. I found the adhesive to be lacking, so I went back to tape until I can get a magnet sheet that I can simply put on and off as needed. If you can't find them, email me and I will share a link to them.
James, where did you get the, long bristle, door sweep you used? I can't find anything that long.
Amazon, look for "uxcell Self-Adhesive Door Bottom Sweep White Plastic w 2-inch Black PVC Soft Brush 39-inch x 2.9-inch" but I took it off and just use a magnet now.
Great Video. Thanks so much for your efforts. I am curious, as you block off the various openings do you have any concern regarding the impact on your dust collector itself? I wonder if the added resistance might cause your unit to overheat.
My system is not so tight that I have to worry, though one way to test would be to gather CFM numbers at the exhaust to verify. The better solution is to put a port from the side of the say to the blade chamber to allow more fresh air into that area. I will be showing that in the future.
Adding resistance to the flow, or using smaller ducting means less air is being moved and the motor is doing less work and using fewer watts of electricity. The motor on the dust collector can run faster as well, increasing the efficiency. You can test this with a shop vac and a Kill-A-Watt meter. Turn on the vac and check the meter running normally, then block the hose and the motor will increase speed because it isn't moving any air and the meter will show less power being consumed.
I have a Jet 10" Hybrid TS. My issue is after doing similar taping off measures, I still do not see adequate removal of sawdust from inside the cabinet. I sure would like to get a hold of a flowmeter like yours to see the CFM of my vacuum. Now don't hate me. I am using the Harbor Freight vacuum that sales for $200 plus. Seems to have good flow. It sucks but not enough?
Well, I am in Virginia, if you are close we can take a look. Also, look for more openings. Some saws I have looked at have hard to find leaks. The meter was cheap enough, though mine is old as the hills and from back when I flew kites.
@@Blueridgedog I am in Omaha Nebraska. I think it may be that the exhaust port placement is more the issue. It is on the back and the saw motor is real close to the port and I feel is blocking the flow to a degree.
Nice vid, and great improvements for your dust collection. Have you considered getting a blade guard with a dust collection point as well? Cheers and thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I have and may in the event that I end up getting a dedicated rip table saw. Currently I have to change this one out so frequently (blades) that I have avoided it.
@@Blueridgedog Is it a hassle to change the riving knife on that saw? I have a fairly new jobsite saw, and knife change is literally a 3 second job. But man, I still want a proper cabinet saw.
@@NomadMakes Not too bad...just that my hands are really big and they don't fit into the throat so well.
@@NomadMakes I got the Sawstop contractor model, and the easy on/off of the riving knife and blade guard is impressive
@@anyfoolknowthat It is really nice to have the quick change function between riving knife and blade guard. I have that on my new Laguna Fusion 3 cabinet saw as well. Love it :D
I think your miter slot might have worked better to have two strips one up and one down that the shaft can move through with better coverage.
I wonder if drilling holes or cutting slots in your throat plate strategically would improve the dust collection?
I tested that! It does, so if you are cutting small stock where a part of the plate is exposed, it helps, but for anything else, the holes are covered by the stock and the only air input comes from the kerf. I think you can see holes in the plate on test video at the end.
I have nearly the same saw...G0123RLW and it’s dust collection is horrible. I’ve previously blocked off the front, the corners, and also the gap in between the saws top and cabinet base. Everytime I use it, I’m covered in saw dust.
I notice you have a zero clearance insert. Does that seem to help as well? Also curious on your dust Collector setup? I guess I need to truly test my cfm’s. I’m running a shop Fox 1685 collector through roughly 30’ of pvc to about 6’ of flex hose connected to the saw.
I think the zero clearance insert helps, especially with side cuts or small cuts, but ultimately the insert is covered most of the time. I would test your cfm at the hose. I have about the same run length as you, but my dust collector is a large Pen cyclone.
Why don’t you make a two piece closeout panel, that attaches with magnet for the front? This way you could reposition them when cutting at an angle, for maximum coverage.
That is a great idea. Right now I have moved to a magnetic sheet that I put over it, but making a panel with magnets would be cool.
Nice tips for DC improvement. Thanks for taking the time for your experiments. I did see in an old Wood Magazine article (I have saved a binder full) about someone doing a test with a modified ZC throat plate. The theory is that the bulk of dust on top of the saw comes from the rear of the blade kicking up dust towards you as it spins. What the guy did was to make a much bigger opening in the throat plate, but only on the rear section of the kerf, say a 1/4" to 1/2" slot, about one inch or so long. That way, you keep the benefits of the ZC insert (chip tear out reduction) on the front end. I am curious if you have tried anything similar. I have never seen any videos showing this tip, or if even has any benefit.
I did experiment drilling some holes in the zero clearance fence. It helps, but when cutting anything of size, the holes get covered up and the only air inlet is the saw kerf. My next approach will be to run a 1" duct line from the side to the back of the blade, so the vacuum can be relived and flow can happen.
Pro. Pure pro.
Instead of using tape every time. Use something removable cut to shape like the magnetic fridge sheet 👻
I actually bought a magnetic vent cover that works well.