Ha ha, at the start you said you have never worked with acrylic before, but then 5mins in you say you made an acrylic drum set. Anyhow, great build, with some very useful tips. Thanks for sharing 😊👍
Just for inspiration for everyone. I know, it may be kind of late for this, but never the less, her it is. A guy from Australia made this dust colector for table saw and in my opinion is a pretty good one.
Safety #1 is making sure there is a riving knife or splitter on that table saw! I like the concept though and will be making something like this at some point for my table saw.
You have such high quality videos and a great personality in front of the camera, Can't see you doing anything but GROWING Found you from your most recent video and have been just watching through your content. Heres to an awesome 22!
This thing is cool. I've been wanted to build some sort of overhead extraction for a while. Do you still like it? Or does it feel like it's in the way?
I still use it for 65% of cuts. When the fence gets really close or I use my sled, I don't use it. I feel like I could have made it more narrow and it would be less in the way. I also wish the mechanism was a little easier to move, but it's really not that bad.... I'm just lazy.
Is this a “standard” way to do this? I know very little about saws but some about air movement. You need more suction! Have you sealed everything well? Can you increase the size of the air handler in any way?
Hi David! The acrylic guard took two afternoons if I recall correctly. The mounting bracket was another day. Maybe 12-14 hours total? Thanks for watching!
Great build!! I really like the heat bending. You might want to look at polycarbonate (ex: Lexan) instead of acrylic because polycarbonate will NOT shatter whereas acrylic can shatter (in the event of a mishap), producing really great shrapnel 😁 I found a guard named “Shark Guard” that I’m really happy with on my old Unisaw. It is made from polycarbonate and there are models for many saw brands/models. Keep up the excellent content!!
Great video! they all are actually. Hey do you think that maybe if the table saw had a super dust collection under the table it would stop throwing dust up? Thinking entirely out loud here, and knowing nothing of dust collection as my table saw is outdoors, the saw pulls sawdust from your work piece basically straight down and the only reason dust ends up on the table is because some of it manages to make a full rotation in the blade before ejecting. I would one day like to have a work space that requires dust collection.
Yeah, in an ideal world, a shroud very close to the blade underneath the table would be highly effective. Unfortunately, this cabinet saw, much like many similarly designed cabinet saws to the unisaw, have the dust port near the bottom of the cabinet. Coupled with dozens of holes, cracks and crevices all around the cabinet leaves very little suction near the blade. The saw dust that resides in the gullet of the saw teeth isn't removed on the first rotation beneath the table top and is subsequently flung upwards as it emerges from the backside of the table. If you look at the Wadkin PK dust collection design (from the 1930s, mind you), you can see why that saw would certainly have superior dust collection under the table. Thanks for watching!
Where did you buy that flexible pipe at your drill press, online? I live in Cobourg, ON and this stuff is hard to get locally. I've also never seen anything like that before.
My guess if you had made the shroud longer or moved it forward so the leading front edge was closer to the front then it would catch more of the Forward throwing dust… Just my thought, Good video… Greg
I'm considering building an overhead guard/dust collector as well... for my old Craftsman 113 table saw. After I upgraded the fence to a Delta 36-T30, it does not allow the old motor mounted guard to be used. In place of a complicated curved guard like yours (nice job BTW), I'm going to side mount my Powertec 70124 and make the guard just high enough to allow it above the blade at full height and sitting just behind the blade location. I don't have the patience or skill to try a curved guard and my version would make the hose connection go off the side towards the fence and rearwards, not directly up like yours. I don't think the 45'ish degree angle at the guard should really impact its ability to draw airflow, as it will still create negative air pressure inside. I'll also try to built it so it swings up with the material as it is feed in, hinged towards the back.
Three small comments - 1. You might get better dust collection by rotating the guard 180 degrees so the longer 'beak' is towards you. 2. Get a riving knife - actually that should have been priority 1; and 3. Didn't your saw come with a guard and riving knife? - and why aren't you using one? I cringe every time I see a TH-camr using saws like this without guards or riving knives - it's asking for kick-backs and gets your fingers too close to a flesh-eating blade.
Honestly so far so good I like the thignees of the acrilic I got one but I do put more acrylic surrounding the original one to make stronger and the end I put couple small wheels well I give 10 out 10 you don’t have any design to start whit and comes good actually yes you need strong sucking power 👍
That was the "different type of safety issue" at 13:08. I've been using table saws without riving knives for about 15 years and while that doesn't make me invincible, I've learned to operate a table saw in such a way that kick back would be extremely unlikely. Also, I believe it goes without saying that one should understand and use their tools as per the manufacturers operating instructions (ie: use the provided safety devices), but I don't like to fill my videos with subject matter that has been beaten to death by everyone on TH-cam. Thanks for watching!
Oh and actually about the "American" thing. My guess is the prevalence of the Delta Unisaw and the various iterations and clones over the years in North America has given us here the impression that the 'riving knife' is a new safety concept, since the Unisaw was only ever sold with a splitter that in most cases, proved to be more trouble than it was worth to use. European, British and some American machinery manufactures were all using true riving knives (the kind that moves up and down with the blade elevation) since at least the early 30s, or maybe even earlier. You can see this on machines like the Wadkin PK, etc.
Have you never worked with acrylic before (0:05)? OR HAVE YOU MADE A DRUM SET FROM IT (5:00)? IT CANT BE BOTH. THE LIES ARE UNRAVELING. SOON WE'LL KNOW THE TRUTH.
😂 I only realized i said this after posting it, lol. The ONE time i worked with acylic before, all I did was drill a bunch of holes in it. So I really know how to drill through acrylic, just nothing else, hah.
Hi, it’s all very admirable, a little like a dog dancing on its two back legs, but at some stage one must ask why?? Did it really need all that effort and still didn’t do what you really wanted, made it less safe, looked like a school project? I mean c’mon!! Sometimes it would great for you to cost your DIY against purchased items. I did thumbs up as your effort is very purposeful Bob England
Had to login to my youtube account to subscribe. and we all know the effort that requires. great channel!
Ha ha, at the start you said you have never worked with acrylic before, but then 5mins in you say you made an acrylic drum set.
Anyhow, great build, with some very useful tips. Thanks for sharing 😊👍
I'd love to see those acrylic drum sets you built! Also LOL always sharpening up those hand tool skills huh
Nice work!
I like the 3700 in the background 😎
Thanks! It's a beast! But it needs a little work when the time allows
I have no idea what you just said but I like it! Why would anyone want to manually open a blast gate and turn on dust extraction ever again!
Great job!
So talented man! And the music 👌🏽
Thanks so much Luis!
Pretty cool design Scott. Noticed that you live in Toronto. Cool to see other wood workers in the GTA!
FYI - weld-on makes a product specifically for attaching and chemically fusing acrylic. Great build - not sure why I hadn't seen this earlier.
Interesting build. Thanks!
Just for inspiration for everyone.
I know, it may be kind of late for this, but never the less, her it is. A guy from Australia made this dust colector for table saw and in my opinion is a pretty good one.
What guy? You have a link…?
That was pretty cool :D
Thanks for watching!
you can put that in the oven at about 300 for 7 to 10 min and it will be very flexable
good video, thanks for sharing.
It gave me some ideas for my own dust collection set up
Safety #1 is making sure there is a riving knife or splitter on that table saw! I like the concept though and will be making something like this at some point for my table saw.
I agree. The lack of a riving knife was the first thing I noticed
Impressive!
You have such high quality videos and a great personality in front of the camera, Can't see you doing anything but GROWING Found you from your most recent video and have been just watching through your content. Heres to an awesome 22!
I
think drilling some small holes might help with the dust collection.
Good video
Where you have found good to source your acrylic from? It's pretty expensive
Everything looks perfect except the rusty bolts on the acrylic, I get it, save a trip to the store!
9:31 where do I find this blue/orange type-thingy? Would really need that for my drill! OR at least, how is it called?
This thing is cool. I've been wanted to build some sort of overhead extraction for a while. Do you still like it? Or does it feel like it's in the way?
I still use it for 65% of cuts. When the fence gets really close or I use my sled, I don't use it. I feel like I could have made it more narrow and it would be less in the way. I also wish the mechanism was a little easier to move, but it's really not that bad.... I'm just lazy.
what is that hose called that you have on your drill press?
Intro: "I've never used acrylic before"
5:04 "... I made an acrylic drum set once"
wut
Is this a “standard” way to do this?
I know very little about saws but some about air movement. You need more suction!
Have you sealed everything well?
Can you increase the size of the air handler in any way?
How many hours do you have into this build? I’m a curious woodworker near Belleville.
Hi David! The acrylic guard took two afternoons if I recall correctly. The mounting bracket was another day. Maybe 12-14 hours total? Thanks for watching!
Great build!! I really like the heat bending.
You might want to look at polycarbonate (ex: Lexan) instead of acrylic because polycarbonate will NOT shatter whereas acrylic can shatter (in the event of a mishap), producing really great shrapnel 😁
I found a guard named “Shark Guard” that I’m really happy with on my old Unisaw. It is made from polycarbonate and there are models for many saw brands/models.
Keep up the excellent content!!
5:00 So you have worked with it in the past? I feel lied to
The only person I've lied to is myself 😭
What I should've said is that I've never cut, bent or glued acrylic. I've only drilled dozens of large holes.
@@ScottWalshWoodworking Well thanks for clearing that up NOW!
Great video! they all are actually. Hey do you think that maybe if the table saw had a super dust collection under the table it would stop throwing dust up? Thinking entirely out loud here, and knowing nothing of dust collection as my table saw is outdoors, the saw pulls sawdust from your work piece basically straight down and the only reason dust ends up on the table is because some of it manages to make a full rotation in the blade before ejecting. I would one day like to have a work space that requires dust collection.
Yeah, in an ideal world, a shroud very close to the blade underneath the table would be highly effective. Unfortunately, this cabinet saw, much like many similarly designed cabinet saws to the unisaw, have the dust port near the bottom of the cabinet. Coupled with dozens of holes, cracks and crevices all around the cabinet leaves very little suction near the blade. The saw dust that resides in the gullet of the saw teeth isn't removed on the first rotation beneath the table top and is subsequently flung upwards as it emerges from the backside of the table. If you look at the Wadkin PK dust collection design (from the 1930s, mind you), you can see why that saw would certainly have superior dust collection under the table. Thanks for watching!
@@ScottWalshWoodworking TH-cam is feeding me auto blast gate videos now, but worth it. Good stuff Scott.
Where did you buy that flexible pipe at your drill press, online? I live in Cobourg, ON and this stuff is hard to get locally. I've also never seen anything like that before.
They sell them at Lee Valley and on Amazon
My guess if you had made the shroud longer or moved it forward so the leading front edge was closer to the front then it would catch more of the Forward throwing dust… Just my thought, Good video… Greg
they also make glue for plex that is not super glue much better
Solvent is much better for acrylic than CA glue.
I'm considering building an overhead guard/dust collector as well... for my old Craftsman 113 table saw. After I upgraded the fence to a Delta 36-T30, it does not allow the old motor mounted guard to be used.
In place of a complicated curved guard like yours (nice job BTW), I'm going to side mount my Powertec 70124 and make the guard just high enough to allow it above the blade at full height and sitting just behind the blade location. I don't have the patience or skill to try a curved guard and my version would make the hose connection go off the side towards the fence and rearwards, not directly up like yours. I don't think the 45'ish degree angle at the guard should really impact its ability to draw airflow, as it will still create negative air pressure inside. I'll also try to built it so it swings up with the material as it is feed in, hinged towards the back.
Three small comments - 1. You might get better dust collection by rotating the guard 180 degrees so the longer 'beak' is towards you. 2. Get a riving knife - actually that should have been priority 1; and 3. Didn't your saw come with a guard and riving knife? - and why aren't you using one? I cringe every time I see a TH-camr using saws like this without guards or riving knives - it's asking for kick-backs and gets your fingers too close to a flesh-eating blade.
It came out pretty cool in the end! You should have made more sexy closeup shots of your work.
Honestly so far so good I like the thignees of the acrilic I got one but I do put more acrylic surrounding the original one to make stronger and the end I put couple small wheels well I give 10 out 10 you don’t have any design to start whit and comes good actually yes you need strong sucking power 👍
Nice work! However you should indeed use a riving knife when talking about safety and a table saw. Seems to be an American thing to me?
That was the "different type of safety issue" at 13:08. I've been using table saws without riving knives for about 15 years and while that doesn't make me invincible, I've learned to operate a table saw in such a way that kick back would be extremely unlikely. Also, I believe it goes without saying that one should understand and use their tools as per the manufacturers operating instructions (ie: use the provided safety devices), but I don't like to fill my videos with subject matter that has been beaten to death by everyone on TH-cam.
Thanks for watching!
Oh and actually about the "American" thing. My guess is the prevalence of the Delta Unisaw and the various iterations and clones over the years in North America has given us here the impression that the 'riving knife' is a new safety concept, since the Unisaw was only ever sold with a splitter that in most cases, proved to be more trouble than it was worth to use. European, British and some American machinery manufactures were all using true riving knives (the kind that moves up and down with the blade elevation) since at least the early 30s, or maybe even earlier. You can see this on machines like the Wadkin PK, etc.
Have you never worked with acrylic before (0:05)? OR HAVE YOU MADE A DRUM SET FROM IT (5:00)? IT CANT BE BOTH. THE LIES ARE UNRAVELING. SOON WE'LL KNOW THE TRUTH.
😂 I only realized i said this after posting it, lol. The ONE time i worked with acylic before, all I did was drill a bunch of holes in it. So I really know how to drill through acrylic, just nothing else, hah.
@@ScottWalshWoodworking *fingers pointing at my eyes, fingers pointing at your eyes"
Hi, it’s all very admirable, a little like a dog dancing on its two back legs, but at some stage one must ask why?? Did it really need all that effort and still didn’t do what you really wanted, made it less safe, looked like a school project? I mean c’mon!! Sometimes it would great for you to cost your DIY against purchased items.
I did thumbs up as your effort is very purposeful
Bob
England
Where is riving knife, step away from table saw and acquire and install a riving knife.
overcomplicated