Guess MityVac had a replica on its hands. It is cheaper so I guess it's a win win for consumers. I have a MityVac and lemme just say it's awesome. Don't have to go under the car and it evacuates every single drop a regular drain plug will. This is how luxury car services do oil changes, reduces the risk of the drain screw stripping over time and leaks due to washer or screw defects. If you do oil changes for one vehicle then maybe it is t for you but if your a handyman that does a few oil changes a year and find yourself evacuating guild from oil pans, brake reservoirs, etc then this system is for you. You can use it with every fluid. Great review!
+Gold63Beast Thanks! There are a few brands of these out there ---- similar design and function, I think the main difference would be capacity and price. I hate drain plugs....this thing is such a time saver!
have one as well, love it. It allows for such simple oil change that I replace the oil at half the interval set in manual, and filter every two drains. Great video, I like your channel.
Just picked one of these up to do transmission fluid change. My plan is to suck out the fluid from dipstick tube and then drop the pan. This method should make dropping the pan much less messy. I hate that the transmission pan doesn’t have a drain plug
The extractor is great for bleeding brakes and changing the fluid. The big capacity and large amount of vacuum is perfect for the job. I have had brakes tested on brake test rollers after bleeding this way and they tested perfect. This is how they bleed brakes when they make new cars.
I have a generic brand of this and I think it's great. Every fluid on a vehicle. And it's great for bleeding your brakes which I use the most time for so I bought a small roll of 1/4 line and just leave a 10 foot section on it all the time but I put an inline quick connect shutoff valve inline up near the pump to be able to stop the flow. Well done 👍👍
that's a great idea. I have probably the mityvac brand of this tool which has the pump inside the unit but functions and looks very similar and I didn't realize you could bleed brakes with it. no I gotta try it!
+Kimo Kalihi I do a lot of brakes and the shutoff valve I used takes no clamps either , you just cut the line and just push both ends into the valve body, looks similar to a fuel line quick connect. I think it was $6 Canadian or $2 American :)
+Kimo Kalihi Ha it's not that bad but last time I checked it was a 45% discount off the greenback , ok were around 55 cents.. I bought it at Princess auto but if you buy the brake bleeder attachment from mityvac it does have the valve built into the line. What I did for the longest time was pressed a piece of 3/16 hose into the end of the 1/4 line and the end fit fine to bleed brake bleeders. Never seen that valve at h/ depot the valve is made for pneumatics so it should be available. Hope this helps. Steve.
well,for me,have to crawl under to access the filter anyway...so i installed a valvomax,and next pair of ramps,and done.But overall good video,nice product!!!
On the tank that recovers the old oil.. does it have indicated measurements to accurately measure that liquid inside ?? Why would you replace the new engine oil with the vehicles recommended capacity from the manufacturer with out assuring you removed the said amount in old oil ? I don’t believe I seen this covered.
When doing a review like this it would have been nice to see the drain plug removed and verify how much oil is left after extraction. As it is, this review didn't do anything to verify the claim that just as much oil was extracted as with a traditional drain plug removal. Maybe that wasn't the point but I was struck by how many times he emphasized that all the oil was drained without ever showing it somehow. It also seems like it's going to depend heavily on where the dipstick tube actually sits in the pan for each vehicle and how it's oriented if it will allow the tube to get all the way into the deepest part of the oil pan. Maybe there is some standard I'm not aware of?
Daniel Glenn i would of just removed the drain plug and drain oil like a normal person but that tool does have some good uses like sucking out coolant out of a hydro locked engine due to a failed leaking EGR cooler on diesel engines
Another youtuber used this than removed the drain bolt and it pretty much removed all the oil. I'm buying one because most oil changes I do are German cars where the filter is on top. Plus I'm tired of removing those plastic covers underneath.
I want to ask and say a couple things. You should measure how much oil you drain normally, and how much you get out with this mightyvac. Secondly. That supertech Walmart oil is crap. When I use it in my Honda I burn so much oil. But when I use the equivalent Mobil brand oil I burn SIGNIFICANTLY and noticeably less. Almost no burning.
+David G It differs per vehicle.....when I first got this, I tried it with many different cars/configurations.....sitting flat, on ramps, etc (and pulled the plug after this got done to see how much was left). With the Pilot sitting flat, there is almost no oil left.....with other cars, they have less when on ramps VS sitting flat. Most people would use ramps in order to access the filter, but realistically this gets 95%+ of the oil out (which is still more than a quick-lube place that puts the plug back once the stream slows down). Also, I like Supertech oil.....specifically what you need to look for is the "rating" on it, as to what it conforms to. Many people think one brand is better than the next, but if they have the exact same rating.....the oil is the same. They just pay more for a different package. That being said, we had a oil rep bring in a test setup with bearings.....using different types of oils (with and without additives), the two best performing ones that prevented failure prior to the others were Mobil 1 (synthetic) and Supertech (synthetic). Almost identical results. I always use regular (non-synthetic oil) in older vehicles, since the tolerances are greater from wear, and synthetic oil leaks out (and also causes more to burn off). I also 100% of the time use a quart bottle of Lucas Oil Additive to each oil change....this pretty much eliminates leaks/oil burning.....and works absolutely excellent. Lucas is one of the only additives that I trust. If you buy an older car.....that doesnt leak.....and run synthetic oil, you will see leaks magically form. Switch back to normal oil, the leaks go away. Secondly.....synthetic oil makes the engine a lot more noisy. Lastly....you need good filters. WIX, Napa Gold (WIX rebrands), K&N, and Mobil1 filters are the only ones that are worth anything.....the others are junk & let contaminants flow freely through your engine. Check out youtube videos with filter cutaways & you will see what I mean. $3 filters are pure trash.
Real Tool Reviews I don't agree sadly, i think you mean the API rating? they might meet requirements but the additive packages and refining added to oil make a big difference. I was talking about my 1996 civic. 214k miles. When i ran supertech High mileage i found the dipstick nearly empty after just only like 1,000 or so miles, with mobil high mileage(these are both non synthetic) it still does burn oil(naturally) but it's so much much slower. Like 3,000 miles is when i'd have to add half a quart.
This one looks really good but other types of extractors that have the pump inside the tank are crap the seals inside of the pump always fail and it stops working so stick away from them. Just my tip if you are looking for something similar.
+DEMMERY11 Good to know! I have had this one for about 6 months & have even left it full of oil for weeks at a time to see if problems would arise....but honestly the only issue that I have had are those rubber bushings swelling when left submerged in oil (in the side tube)....keeping the correct side out of the oil solved it. I have not used the other styles, but I will keep that in mind...thanks!
Can you use this to extract old gas out of a gas tank? Also can you use this to extract coolant out and do a coolant flush? Looking for something to contain fluids when I work outside and don't wanna use open drain pans and risk them spilling all over the place. Any help is appreciated. :) Love you videos. Keep it up.
Many new cars have cartridge filters that are accessible from the top. Belly pans are also commonplace now so it's a chore to change without an evacuation system.
Hi ! Eventually, a little oil will make his way in the air pump and melt the rubber and cause a pump failure, where can we buy seal replacement pump parts ?
It would be great if you did a review on oil filter drain tools. There is one called the oil filter buddy or oil change buddy iirc. It needs a vacuum source, and I wonder if it could be used in conjunction with an extractor.
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) I looked that up, and cannot see exactly what it is......I assume it is a magnetic pad that pops a hole in the bottom of the filter?
+Real Tool Reviews yeah there are several different kinds. Some punch a hole in the filter and simply serve as a drain, and some use a vacuum source to suck the filter dry. I can't share TH-cam links on the mobile app for some reason but if you search oil filter buddy on here, you will see some videos of the guy selling them. Maybe he can send you a sample ;)
Sir, if you still have to go under the vehicle to remove, and replace, the oil filter, I really don't see, or can cost-justify, the real need for an oil extractor. If, however, you are involved in some type of a commercial oil-change enterprise, maybe the IRS would allow you to "write-off" this expense as another piece of needed equipment. For us DIY, even doing these chores twice yearly would require many years to "break-even" for a decent apparatus.
Oscar Lechuga Less messy, less chance of having in contact with oil to skin. Looks efficient and convenient. Almost eliminates the need for ramps, jacks or jack stands for most vehicles thereby lessens the chances of unfortunate accidents. Appears to be faster in doing the job inside or outside the garage. What’s there not to love this equipment?
Oscar Lechuga i can see your point. But I see where it'd be useful,removing bolts laying on your back on the driveway kinda sucks. Especially when they're over-torqued or corroded!
seems like an awesome tool. too bad my van doesn't have enough clearance to change the oil filter without a lift. defeats the purpose of using one of these.
+DigitalYojimbo I've seen quite a few sump plugs that aren't at the very bottom of the sump, so draining it the traditional way doesn't remove 100% of the oil anyway. I don't think it really matters either way, as long as you've got like 90% new oil. The thing that's really making me wonder is, I see how a manual version has advantages over an air powered version, but who is out in the middle of a field in the middle of no where changing their oil?
+DigitalYojimbo on most cars even after letting it drip out of the plug for 10 minutes, there will still be a pint or two in the bottom of the pan, this prolly removes more than that even
+lolz larkin Well, it isnt just oil & plenty of people repair cars out in parking lots, on the side of the road, etc.....the point that I was trying to make was no additional power source (air or electricity) needed.
You only need to do that on diesels not gasoline cars its not necessary at all. The proof is lots a car come with sideways mounted filters which you cant prefill at all. Theres still enough oil in the internals to last you those few seconds it takes to fill the filter.
jeremy canning Common myth. Filter filters not lubricates. The engine has plenty of oil to start with. Mini Countryman has its oil filter upside down, case in point.
If i only did Honda oil change than it would be perfect. However, other vehicles have curves and bends that make it impossible to stick that tube all the way down to the oil pan. Second, u dont have to prefill any oil filter before installation because nomatter what type of engine wether diesel or gas, the engine oil pump will fill the filter regardless. Its just habit.
These things are way over priced. Even the cheapest bicycle air pump in more solidly built than most of these things. I also don't like the fact that the top is bolted on, making clean up a painful if not impossible. I bought an air-tight, five-gallon oil container for less than $20. A low power pneumatic vacuum generator for $10. Air hose fittings and an air hose valve (to control the air flow from my compressor); all for around $10. (I also put a vacuum gauge in at the vacuum side of the vacuum generator, but this isn't really necessary.) It actually took some research to determine what type of tubing to use. I wanted to make sure that it could not be degraded by oil or melted by the heat from a warm engine. Still it was not expensive, about $10 in all. I also used a bit of silicon sealant to sure up the connections of my hoses onto the container, but this might not actually be necessary if you drill your holes slightly smaller than the OD of the tubing. The vacuum source (of course) is introduced at the very top of the container, while the tubing for the fluid needs to extend from the top of the container to the bottom of the container. Also this setup can be used to put fluid into something by introducing compressed air through what is usually the vacuum port. Either way, the ability to control the compress air is crucial in that you don't want to introduce too much vacuum. Even though I originally built my own because I wanted to be able to clear things out, I ultimately just bought a second oil container for use with transmission fluid, and that's the one that can be quite useful for dispensing fluid. Five gallons might seem like a lot, but you want you container to be rather stable. The extra capacity also comes in handy for larger machinery on a farm.
+Ozzy ô I dont see why it wouldnt.....you would need to do a couple additional things though --- 1. Go to Lowes/Home Depot & buy a longer section of the smaller line that inserts in the dipstick tube (nylon tubing) & 2. Empty the container multiple times, since it cannot hold the 12 gallons of oil that the ISX15 has in it. Other than that you should be ok.
Why warm up the engine & oil before draining the oil? The viscosity of the oil (5W30 for example) has a lower viscosity when it’s cold. The 5 in the “5W30” is the viscosity of the oil when cold, & the 30 is the viscosity at operating temperature. The lower the viscosity number the faster it will flow. Why warm it?
Real Tool Reviews A 5W30 has a viscosity of SAE 5 when cold(W stands for Winter). A 5W30 has a viscosity of 30 at 100°C. This is a multi grade oil because of viscosity modifiers. Their molecular bonds are tight at cold temperature, maintaining the lower viscosity. It expands when heated and it increases its viscosity. This is basic chemical reaction.
Real Tool Reviews I have a formal education in Automotive, ASE certified & recertified, licensed Smog Tech by the state of California. I’m also a retired Mechanical Engineer from the Deptartment of Defense. If you cannot understand what I’m talking about, don’t insult my intelligence & capabilities and tell me that I haven’t change my oil. Stop advertising your ignorance on chemistry. This is just a viscosity modifier that the molecular bind contracts & expand due to changes in temperature. This is basic petroleum chemistry.
This is one of the best explanations of an auto topic I have seen on TH-cam! Now I know how to use the fluid evacuator I just bought. Thanks!
Very clear and easy to follow. No unnecessary talking. Great job!
Guess MityVac had a replica on its hands. It is cheaper so I guess it's a win win for consumers. I have a MityVac and lemme just say it's awesome. Don't have to go under the car and it evacuates every single drop a regular drain plug will. This is how luxury car services do oil changes, reduces the risk of the drain screw stripping over time and leaks due to washer or screw defects. If you do oil changes for one vehicle then maybe it is t for you but if your a handyman that does a few oil changes a year and find yourself evacuating guild from oil pans, brake reservoirs, etc then this system is for you. You can use it with every fluid. Great review!
+Gold63Beast Thanks! There are a few brands of these out there ---- similar design and function, I think the main difference would be capacity and price. I hate drain plugs....this thing is such a time saver!
Dude! Thanks very much! I bought this for my jetski! But after watching your vid! Did my oil and transmission oil on my Honda pilot!
have one as well, love it. It allows for such simple oil change that I replace the oil at half the interval set in manual, and filter every two drains. Great video, I like your channel.
+thebibidu Thanks! I agree....this thing really speeds up oil changes and saves a ton of rags & mess!
Just picked one of these up to do transmission fluid change. My plan is to suck out the fluid from dipstick tube and then drop the pan. This method should make dropping the pan much less messy. I hate that the transmission pan doesn’t have a drain plug
did a great job showing how to work Steelman, thanks and ill be watching more of you videos. thanks again. Lespaulplyr!
Excellent video
Sure wish I had this tool when I changed my transmission fluid out. another great video keep up the good work.
+derpie2000 Thanks! I thought the same thing when I started using this one.....especially with lawn tractors/equipment.....so much easier!
The extractor is great for bleeding brakes and changing the fluid. The big capacity and large amount of vacuum is perfect for the job. I have had brakes tested on brake test rollers after bleeding this way and they tested perfect. This is how they bleed brakes when they make new cars.
I have a generic brand of this and I think it's great. Every fluid on a vehicle. And it's great for bleeding your brakes which I use the most time for so I bought a small roll of 1/4 line and just leave a 10 foot section on it all the time but I put an inline quick connect shutoff valve inline up near the pump to be able to stop the flow. Well done 👍👍
that's a great idea. I have probably the mityvac brand of this tool which has the pump inside the unit but functions and looks very similar and I didn't realize you could bleed brakes with it. no I gotta try it!
+Kimo Kalihi I do a lot of brakes and the shutoff valve I used takes no clamps either , you just cut the line and just push both ends into the valve body, looks similar to a fuel line quick connect. I think it was $6 Canadian or $2 American :)
+Steve Rob the dollar is 3x the value of Canadian currency? that can't be right. where did you get the valve? home depot?
+Kimo Kalihi Ha it's not that bad but last time I checked it was a 45% discount off the greenback , ok were around 55 cents.. I bought it at Princess auto but if you buy the brake bleeder attachment from mityvac it does have the valve built into the line. What I did for the longest time was pressed a piece of 3/16 hose into the end of the 1/4 line and the end fit fine to bleed brake bleeders. Never seen that valve at h/ depot the valve is made for pneumatics so it should be available. Hope this helps. Steve.
+Steve Rob ok thank you! I have the mitivac brake bleeder but this is better because it catches all the fluid with a larger reservoir.
These things are so helpful if you want to do a quick oil change!
+Luca Car Mods I agree!
Thanks for the review. If you would turn that oil jug on it's side, the oil will pour out without gurgling. Thanks again
well,for me,have to crawl under to access the filter anyway...so i installed a valvomax,and next pair of ramps,and done.But overall good video,nice product!!!
Absolutely amazing presentation of this tool! Thank you! I'm sold!
Can you show one using the extractor on the transmission fluid and break fluid exchang.
Great video. Fantastic tips. Thanks!
Thank you for the awesome review and tutorial!
Where did this guy go? Always liked his videos.
I took a break….. glad you liked them! Stay tuned, more coming soon 👍
Never knew I wanted/needed one of those :-)
+Calvin Johnson That is a side effect of seeing cool tools all the time ;)
Looks nice, thanks for the look and review.
+DC Rickerson Thanks DC!
On the tank that recovers the old oil.. does it have indicated measurements to accurately measure that liquid inside ??
Why would you replace the new engine oil with the vehicles recommended capacity from the manufacturer with out assuring you removed the said amount in old oil ?
I don’t believe I seen this covered.
Wondered the same thing
Awesome! Thanks!
Pretty decent, but you never mentioned how much oil was taken out? Rule of thumb what goes out goes back in right?
Nice vide
Thank you very much for your videos
When doing a review like this it would have been nice to see the drain plug removed and verify how much oil is left after extraction. As it is, this review didn't do anything to verify the claim that just as much oil was extracted as with a traditional drain plug removal. Maybe that wasn't the point but I was struck by how many times he emphasized that all the oil was drained without ever showing it somehow. It also seems like it's going to depend heavily on where the dipstick tube actually sits in the pan for each vehicle and how it's oriented if it will allow the tube to get all the way into the deepest part of the oil pan. Maybe there is some standard I'm not aware of?
Daniel Glenn i would of just removed the drain plug and drain oil like a normal person but that tool does have some good uses like sucking out coolant out of a hydro locked engine due to a failed leaking EGR cooler on diesel engines
Another youtuber used this than removed the drain bolt and it pretty much removed all the oil. I'm buying one because most oil changes I do are German cars where the filter is on top. Plus I'm tired of removing those plastic covers underneath.
Too logical, not all will accept.
I want to ask and say a couple things. You should measure how much oil you drain normally, and how much you get out with this mightyvac. Secondly. That supertech Walmart oil is crap. When I use it in my Honda I burn so much oil. But when I use the equivalent Mobil brand oil I burn SIGNIFICANTLY and noticeably less. Almost no burning.
+David G It differs per vehicle.....when I first got this, I tried it with many different cars/configurations.....sitting flat, on ramps, etc (and pulled the plug after this got done to see how much was left). With the Pilot sitting flat, there is almost no oil left.....with other cars, they have less when on ramps VS sitting flat. Most people would use ramps in order to access the filter, but realistically this gets 95%+ of the oil out (which is still more than a quick-lube place that puts the plug back once the stream slows down).
Also, I like Supertech oil.....specifically what you need to look for is the "rating" on it, as to what it conforms to. Many people think one brand is better than the next, but if they have the exact same rating.....the oil is the same. They just pay more for a different package. That being said, we had a oil rep bring in a test setup with bearings.....using different types of oils (with and without additives), the two best performing ones that prevented failure prior to the others were Mobil 1 (synthetic) and Supertech (synthetic). Almost identical results.
I always use regular (non-synthetic oil) in older vehicles, since the tolerances are greater from wear, and synthetic oil leaks out (and also causes more to burn off). I also 100% of the time use a quart bottle of Lucas Oil Additive to each oil change....this pretty much eliminates leaks/oil burning.....and works absolutely excellent. Lucas is one of the only additives that I trust.
If you buy an older car.....that doesnt leak.....and run synthetic oil, you will see leaks magically form. Switch back to normal oil, the leaks go away. Secondly.....synthetic oil makes the engine a lot more noisy.
Lastly....you need good filters. WIX, Napa Gold (WIX rebrands), K&N, and Mobil1 filters are the only ones that are worth anything.....the others are junk & let contaminants flow freely through your engine. Check out youtube videos with filter cutaways & you will see what I mean. $3 filters are pure trash.
Real Tool Reviews
I don't agree sadly, i think you mean the API rating? they might meet requirements but the additive packages and refining added to oil make a big difference.
I was talking about my 1996 civic. 214k miles. When i ran supertech High mileage i found the dipstick nearly empty after just only like 1,000 or so miles, with mobil high mileage(these are both non synthetic) it still does burn oil(naturally) but it's so much much slower. Like 3,000 miles is when i'd have to add half a quart.
Now do a vedio on brakes with it
This one looks really good but other types of extractors that have the pump inside the tank are crap the seals inside of the pump always fail and it stops working so stick away from them. Just my tip if you are looking for something similar.
+DEMMERY11 Good to know! I have had this one for about 6 months & have even left it full of oil for weeks at a time to see if problems would arise....but honestly the only issue that I have had are those rubber bushings swelling when left submerged in oil (in the side tube)....keeping the correct side out of the oil solved it. I have not used the other styles, but I will keep that in mind...thanks!
I've got the version you're talking about and it's like ten years old no problems.
Can you use this to extract old gas out of a gas tank? Also can you use this to extract coolant out and do a coolant flush? Looking for something to contain fluids when I work outside and don't wanna use open drain pans and risk them spilling all over the place. Any help is appreciated. :) Love you videos. Keep it up.
if only i had one of these when i replaced a pressure sensor in my transmission... took a couple showers to fully wash off that ATF stink
+SgtPnkks Haha nice....yeah transmissions can get messy real fast!
On most cars, you'll still need to raise the car to change the oil filter. So you might as well drain the oil.
Many new cars have cartridge filters that are accessible from the top. Belly pans are also commonplace now so it's a chore to change without an evacuation system.
Hi ! Eventually, a little oil will make his way in the air pump and melt the rubber and cause a pump failure, where can we buy seal replacement pump parts ?
how many minutes did u spend to finish all oil?
Please tell me why this is better than (or even equal to) the electric pump I bought on ebay for $25.
Nice man
+George S Thanks George!
Does It Also Fill Like Transmission
Topsider for the win?
It would be great if you did a review on oil filter drain tools. There is one called the oil filter buddy or oil change buddy iirc. It needs a vacuum source, and I wonder if it could be used in conjunction with an extractor.
+Lynx Star Automotive (Gabe V) I looked that up, and cannot see exactly what it is......I assume it is a magnetic pad that pops a hole in the bottom of the filter?
+Real Tool Reviews yeah there are several different kinds. Some punch a hole in the filter and simply serve as a drain, and some use a vacuum source to suck the filter dry. I can't share TH-cam links on the mobile app for some reason but if you search oil filter buddy on here, you will see some videos of the guy selling them. Maybe he can send you a sample ;)
$84 on Amazon Prime, I think I need one, or two!
any tips on cleaning the reservoir and hoses? can you use brake cleaner, alcohol or acetone?
Ren my brake bleeder says to use alcohol for cleaning the hoses.
DAWN...dish soap
Using this tool on a Honda outboard. Does removing the engine oil filler cap actually make it suck out faster?
I always remove the cap….. not worth the risk to me to leave it.
VW oil filter is on top, no underneath at all
I wonder if this is the same type that Harbor Freight sells? It's made by Holt industry and looks exactly the same.
Looks very similar.....I would have to see them side-by-side to know for sure.
Sir, if you still have to go under the vehicle to remove, and replace, the oil filter, I really don't see, or can cost-justify, the real need for an oil extractor. If, however, you are involved in some type of a commercial oil-change enterprise, maybe the IRS would allow you to "write-off" this expense as another piece of needed equipment.
For us DIY, even doing these chores twice yearly would require many years to "break-even" for a decent apparatus.
Oscar Lechuga
Less messy, less chance of having in contact with oil to skin. Looks efficient and convenient. Almost eliminates the need for ramps, jacks or jack stands for most vehicles thereby lessens the chances of unfortunate accidents. Appears to be faster in doing the job inside or outside the garage.
What’s there not to love this equipment?
Oscar Lechuga i can see your point. But I see where it'd be useful,removing bolts laying on your back on the driveway kinda sucks. Especially when they're over-torqued or corroded!
How do you clean it out
seems like an awesome tool. too bad my van doesn't have enough clearance to change the oil filter without a lift. defeats the purpose of using one of these.
I wonder if there is anything left in the pan.
+DigitalYojimbo I've seen quite a few sump plugs that aren't at the very bottom of the sump, so draining it the traditional way doesn't remove 100% of the oil anyway. I don't think it really matters either way, as long as you've got like 90% new oil.
The thing that's really making me wonder is, I see how a manual version has advantages over an air powered version, but who is out in the middle of a field in the middle of no where changing their oil?
+DigitalYojimbo on most cars even after letting it drip out of the plug for 10 minutes, there will still be a pint or two in the bottom of the pan, this prolly removes more than that even
+DigitalYojimbo Very little....about the same a leaving the drain plug out until it stops dripping.
+lolz larkin Well, it isnt just oil & plenty of people repair cars out in parking lots, on the side of the road, etc.....the point that I was trying to make was no additional power source (air or electricity) needed.
Too bad you can't pump the oil out like you can with the Mityvac.
Boodieman72 I got the mityvac 7201 instead. 100% of the reason was because it evacuates and dispenses fluid. Makes diff filling 100x easier.
shit it takes me longer than "matters of minutes" to extract 5.8 quarts.
Common mistake made. When installing a new oil filter its always best to fill it will oil before fitting
It's a mith! You don't realy need to fill the oil filter with oil. It has no mechanical sense.
You only need to do that on diesels not gasoline cars its not necessary at all. The proof is lots a car come with sideways mounted filters which you cant prefill at all. Theres still enough oil in the internals to last you those few seconds it takes to fill the filter.
jeremy canning
Common myth. Filter filters not lubricates. The engine has plenty of oil to start with. Mini Countryman has its oil filter upside down, case in point.
jeremy canning not true
There's still a film of oil on everything so it'll be okay if it's not full.
If i only did Honda oil change than it would be perfect. However, other vehicles have curves and bends that make it impossible to stick that tube all the way down to the oil pan. Second, u dont have to prefill any oil filter before installation because nomatter what type of engine wether diesel or gas, the engine oil pump will fill the filter regardless. Its just habit.
I just pour my oil down the toilet. Saves a trip to autozone.
I poor mine behind the garage, putting back in the ground where it came from.
+GigaDonk Sounds messy ;)
+Ozzy ô It is strange to think that is how it was actually done for so long....
I spread it over my lawn. It's a great fertilizer!
I whip mine up with some egg yolks and vinegar. Makes a lovely home made mayonnaise with a delightful smoky flavour.
please stop saying :vacuum pressure" and building pressure" all your doing is building vacuum..
Let me hop in my time machine and redo this vid just for you....
Is he not building negative pressure?
These things are way over priced. Even the cheapest bicycle air pump in more solidly built than most of these things. I also don't like the fact that the top is bolted on, making clean up a painful if not impossible. I bought an air-tight, five-gallon oil container for less than $20. A low power pneumatic vacuum generator for $10. Air hose fittings and an air hose valve (to control the air flow from my compressor); all for around $10. (I also put a vacuum gauge in at the vacuum side of the vacuum generator, but this isn't really necessary.) It actually took some research to determine what type of tubing to use. I wanted to make sure that it could not be degraded by oil or melted by the heat from a warm engine. Still it was not expensive, about $10 in all. I also used a bit of silicon sealant to sure up the connections of my hoses onto the container, but this might not actually be necessary if you drill your holes slightly smaller than the OD of the tubing. The vacuum source (of course) is introduced at the very top of the container, while the tubing for the fluid needs to extend from the top of the container to the bottom of the container. Also this setup can be used to put fluid into something by introducing compressed air through what is usually the vacuum port. Either way, the ability to control the compress air is crucial in that you don't want to introduce too much vacuum. Even though I originally built my own because I wanted to be able to clear things out, I ultimately just bought a second oil container for use with transmission fluid, and that's the one that can be quite useful for dispensing fluid. Five gallons might seem like a lot, but you want you container to be rather stable. The extra capacity also comes in handy for larger machinery on a farm.
They are around $40 on eBay and $60 on Amazon for generic brand versions
these things suck. they work ok for sucking out power steering fluid and stuff but they won't suck brake fluid through most systems
I pour my used oil in my TDI's fuel tank. 1 qt at a time. Cant even tell its there.
Take your gloves off before getting back in the car
will this work on a ISX15?
+Ozzy ô I dont see why it wouldnt.....you would need to do a couple additional things though --- 1. Go to Lowes/Home Depot & buy a longer section of the smaller line that inserts in the dipstick tube (nylon tubing) & 2. Empty the container multiple times, since it cannot hold the 12 gallons of oil that the ISX15 has in it. Other than that you should be ok.
What's wrong with the drain plug ?
+az man 2013 Lazy or some sort of physical handicap perhaps.
+Real Tool Reviews I was just yanking your chain, I wanted to see what you would say. I use a 17 gallon roll around drain pan.
+Real Tool Reviews I was just yanking your chain, I wanted to see what you would say. I use a 17 gallon roll around drain pan.
Why warm up the engine & oil before draining the oil? The viscosity of the oil (5W30 for example) has a lower viscosity when it’s cold. The 5 in the “5W30” is the viscosity of the oil when cold, & the 30 is the viscosity at operating temperature. The lower the viscosity number the faster it will flow. Why warm it?
+Blum707 Hot oil does not thicken up....
Real Tool Reviews A 5W30 has a viscosity of SAE 5 when cold(W stands for Winter). A 5W30 has a viscosity of 30 at 100°C. This is a multi grade oil because of viscosity modifiers. Their molecular bonds are tight at cold temperature, maintaining the lower viscosity. It expands when heated and it increases its viscosity. This is basic chemical reaction.
+Blum707 I can tell that you have never changed your oil.
Real Tool Reviews I have a formal education in Automotive, ASE certified & recertified, licensed Smog Tech by the state of California. I’m also a retired Mechanical Engineer from the Deptartment of Defense. If you cannot understand what I’m talking about, don’t insult my intelligence & capabilities and tell me that I haven’t change my oil. Stop advertising your ignorance on chemistry. This is just a viscosity modifier that the molecular bind contracts & expand due to changes in temperature. This is basic petroleum chemistry.
+Blum707 ....and here comes the internet resumé.....