i think this AFM is also used in the 90-93 Mazda Miata. my door does not spring back, and the fuel pump switch is always at 0 ohms no matter the door position. i may just buy a used one, but i also want to brave getting in there and seeing if i can get the door back on the spring.
So your fuel pump isn't supposed to come over. When you turn your key on? My 87 4runner will start the cuts out about 30 secs later. I have change the OCR main relay us fine ecu tested air flow meter tests out also but if I by pass the air flow meter it runs. Any ideas
There's a switch inside the AFM that controls the fuel pump - that switch is there to kill power to the fuel system in the event of the motor stopping. If you turn your key to "ON" and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should not turn on (at least on the 1989 and later models w/ fuel injection that's how it should work). Can't say for certain about the '87 model. Check the electrical signals from the AFM and also confirm that the door in there isn't binding.
Finally, someone says what sealant one should use for the AFM electricals’ door! Though not sure which variety of silicone. Why they made this part a permanently sealed unit is beyond me, but to be fair it’s not some one opens on a regular basis. I’m thinking mine either has broken solder joints (might be easy fix) or it might just be same problem (alum corrosion causing binding) because every other time my engine starts bogging out, smacking this AFM unit like a naughty girl makes the problem go away…
Yeah, if you smack the AFM and it clear up, that is usually the door binding (like shown in the video). You can reseal the plastic door using either Ultra Black RTV or Ultra Grey. Those are the ones I would select.
@@ray5961 are there any mods that allow for the door to be screwed in instead that involve using a weatherproofing rubber gasket or similar? Not that I have removed mine yet, I have a spare filter / airbox housing + AFM unit pulled from a good working vehicle (or so I was told) with the afm electrical cover already ripped off.. I do have raw material of either aluminum, stainless or good old steel, as well as a lathe and a milling machine and a sandblasting & powder coating setup, so I can remake a facsimile cover if needed
@@asakayosapro Most people just slice through the silicone gasket with a razor blade and then leave the remains on there. This allows you to pop it back on or off when needed, but the residual gasket still seals for the most part.
Yes, all good now. The issue was related to the door binding and this was throwing everything off (e.g. the truck wouldn't idle, the fuel pump wouldn't shut off as it should). After fixing the AFM now everything is working 100% again.
@ray5961 thanks for that info, i just open a mafs for my 1990 3vze from watching your vid, havent tried it as yet , but i have a friend with a 22re who is not idling so ill pass along that information. Thanks
Hey, reaching out on a limb here having a serious issue with my truck. I noticed it was idling rough and at a low RPM like it wanted to die. I ran through some serious rain puddles the other day, and it seemed like it wanted to die on me. I'm thinking I might have sucked up some water. Trying to drive home from the lake tonight, I could not get it to rev up at all. I barely got it out of first gear; it just wanted to die, sputtering and everything. I kept feathering the gas pedal until I finally got it up to 4-5k RPMs and then burnt the clutch to get it up to speed. It seemed like after revving it and keeping it around 4k, it ran fine. It ran better after that, and I was able to get it home. Is it possible there is water in the oil or anything that would cause this? TPM sensor? Damaged electronics? Distributor? Water that I ran through was on Tuesday. I drove it 40 miles last night and it was fine. Issue was tonight driving it back from the lake 5-10 miles away.
It's possible you got the coil wet and it was shorting out and/or some water into the distributor cap. I'd remove the distributor cap and blow it out with compressed air or clean it out - same for the air gap in there on the rotor. If you got water around the coil area up on the left fender well, blow that out with compressed air also and make sure it's totally dry. If it's wet, the coil can short out down to the frame and then the motor won't wanna rev out. Unless you were fording deep water and it was clear up to your head lights or something, then I wouldn't worry too much about water in the oil or anything. If there is any water in the oil, it will typically manifest itself on the dipstick or under the oil cap as a milkshake kinda foam. Sounds to me like water shorted out some of the ignition system... let her dry out for a few days or go through w/ compressed air and help dry everything out, then see. Since the motor runs hot, it will dry out on its own, but if you get water over by the coil or up inside the cap, that will take longer. My guess would be wet coil or maybe some water splashed up and get into the distributor cap a bit.
What if the door ‘free wheels’ so to speak, in other words, it just does not spring back. As if there is no spring in it.? Can that spring be replaced or even available??? Thankyou Ray from South Australia.
@@ray5961 Thankyou Ray, is the spring replaceable, as the complete unit for an 80 series L/C are only available from china and cost about $800 - $1000 Australian. Thanks for your site, I have got more from you than other land cruiser sites . Cheers
@@waynepinnegar7778 Thanks! Check Napa Auto also.. I bought my AFM from them when I first got my truck. They might have something that works for the Land Cruiser.
Black/red is the hot wire (+12V) for all 4 injectors. The injectors fire in pairs (1/3, then 2/4) the White/red wire controls firing injectors 1/3 via the ECU and the solid white controls 2/4.
@@ray5961 some one cut the harness from the injector side so i have aftermarket connectors which is black and red so red goes with ?and black goes wit?
@@neilbaris7251 Red should be +12V and black should be ground (although on the 22RE they use different colors). You can use a volt meter to check for +12V DC on the Toyota harness, which should be the black/red (stripe) wire as outlined above. If you have injectors with some cut off connector that just has a red wire and also a black wire, then the red wire side is gonna be +12V and the black is gonna be what would run to the ECU wires on the Toyota harness (I believe those are white and white/red). Do you have any testing equipment? Also, you can just test the injectors directly to the car battery (black to black, red to red) and you should hear them click on/off. I use this tester here for flow testing my injectors to make sure they work www.amazon.com/ALLOSUN-EM276-Fuel-Injector-Tester/dp/B0126MEK3C/ - let me know if you have any other questions.
This is valuable info. I’ve got a spare 22re AFM that I bought years back just because it was cheap. Think it might need this treatment. Although it did have an old dirt dauber nest inside too.
If you turn the screw all the way in (clockwise) the idle should go down. Counter clock wise (out), idle should go up. If there isn't much change when going through the full range of adjustment, it could be the O-ring is leaking air. Try removing the adjustment screw completely and hold your thumb over the hole, then put the screw all the way back in and put your thumb over the hole. See if there is any difference then. If not, check your rubber elbow for cracks, because it's common for those to age and start falling apart and there can be hidden cracks under there near where the radiator hose is. Also, make sure the lower hose for the IAC valve is warming up (and make sure the upper feed hose also is warm). The IAC valve raises the idle when cold, but it needs coolant flowing around it to turn off; if the coolant is very low in the motor and/or there is a blockage in the cooling system, those two little feed hoses may not be feeding coolant to the IAC (idle air control valve) and that will cause high idle also. Check to see if those hoses are hot when the motor is warmed up. Stuck door on the AFM will also do it, as outlined in this video.
@@russellwilkey390 You're most welcome. I've turned it the wrong way myself and ended up off in the weeds of nothing works also :) Glad to hear it was an easy fix! Do you have the LCE adjuster? That's pretty nice to have.
I was a former owner of 3.0 V6 4Runner that I had a problem out of the air flow meter where the sweep was dirty. Once I took it apart and cleaned it my issue was solved. I sure miss that 3slow 4Runner.
If there is binding any where along the path of the door, it will negatively affect engine operation. However, as far as starting goes, as long as it's not binding in the initial part of the movement, then that shouldn't have any major impact when it comes to cranking over.
@@joshcross5761 Could be your circuit opening relay is shot. I have some videos on that. Try this: go into the diag box, jumper Fp to B+ using a bent paper clip (turn ignition to ON and see if you hear your fuel pump running)... try starting and see if it fires right up.
Technically speaking, that is correct. However, these days, most people take MAF to mean the more modern hot wire design found in OBD2 systems, while the Toyota 22RE uses a volume metric based setup. In the TCCS manual, Toyota always refers to this specific vane style as "Air Flow Meter", so I try to adhere to their original nomenclature in the videos also. But yeah, AFM, MAF... same basic idea. Great run down here as well: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor
More great information. Your building quite the encyclopedia.
Thanks!
i think this AFM is also used in the 90-93 Mazda Miata. my door does not spring back, and the fuel pump switch is always at 0 ohms no matter the door position. i may just buy a used one, but i also want to brave getting in there and seeing if i can get the door back on the spring.
Good luck! :)
great information...does the AFM need to be completely removed to work on it? How do you seal it back up?
So your fuel pump isn't supposed to come over. When you turn your key on? My 87 4runner will start the cuts out about 30 secs later. I have change the OCR main relay us fine ecu tested air flow meter tests out also but if I by pass the air flow meter it runs. Any ideas
There's a switch inside the AFM that controls the fuel pump - that switch is there to kill power to the fuel system in the event of the motor stopping. If you turn your key to "ON" and the engine isn't running, the fuel pump should not turn on (at least on the 1989 and later models w/ fuel injection that's how it should work). Can't say for certain about the '87 model. Check the electrical signals from the AFM and also confirm that the door in there isn't binding.
Finally, someone says what sealant one should use for the AFM electricals’ door! Though not sure which variety of silicone. Why they made this part a permanently sealed unit is beyond me, but to be fair it’s not some one opens on a regular basis. I’m thinking mine either has broken solder joints (might be easy fix) or it might just be same problem (alum corrosion causing binding) because every other time my engine starts bogging out, smacking this AFM unit like a naughty girl makes the problem go away…
Yeah, if you smack the AFM and it clear up, that is usually the door binding (like shown in the video). You can reseal the plastic door using either Ultra Black RTV or Ultra Grey. Those are the ones I would select.
@@ray5961 are there any mods that allow for the door to be screwed in instead that involve using a weatherproofing rubber gasket or similar? Not that I have removed mine yet, I have a spare filter / airbox housing + AFM unit pulled from a good working vehicle (or so I was told) with the afm electrical cover already ripped off..
I do have raw material of either aluminum, stainless or good old steel, as well as a lathe and a milling machine and a sandblasting & powder coating setup, so I can remake a facsimile cover if needed
@@asakayosapro Most people just slice through the silicone gasket with a razor blade and then leave the remains on there. This allows you to pop it back on or off when needed, but the residual gasket still seals for the most part.
how did they vehicle respond after your cleaning job on the mafs? is it working better ??
Yes, all good now. The issue was related to the door binding and this was throwing everything off (e.g. the truck wouldn't idle, the fuel pump wouldn't shut off as it should). After fixing the AFM now everything is working 100% again.
@ray5961 thanks for that info, i just open a mafs for my 1990 3vze from watching your vid, havent tried it as yet , but i have a friend with a 22re who is not idling so ill pass along that information. Thanks
Did you reseal the bottom plate and if so what kind of sealant for the metal backing plate.
yes I used Ultrablack RTV sealant all around and then cleaned it up very, very carefully using the tip of a chopstick and my fingers, etc.
@@ray5961 thanks. I appreciate the reply.
What kind of silicone are you using to close it
RTV Ultrablack
@@ray5961 thank you so much.
Hey, reaching out on a limb here having a serious issue with my truck. I noticed it was idling rough and at a low RPM like it wanted to die. I ran through some serious rain puddles the other day, and it seemed like it wanted to die on me. I'm thinking I might have sucked up some water. Trying to drive home from the lake tonight, I could not get it to rev up at all. I barely got it out of first gear; it just wanted to die, sputtering and everything. I kept feathering the gas pedal until I finally got it up to 4-5k RPMs and then burnt the clutch to get it up to speed. It seemed like after revving it and keeping it around 4k, it ran fine. It ran better after that, and I was able to get it home. Is it possible there is water in the oil or anything that would cause this? TPM sensor? Damaged electronics? Distributor? Water that I ran through was on Tuesday. I drove it 40 miles last night and it was fine. Issue was tonight driving it back from the lake 5-10 miles away.
It's possible you got the coil wet and it was shorting out and/or some water into the distributor cap. I'd remove the distributor cap and blow it out with compressed air or clean it out - same for the air gap in there on the rotor. If you got water around the coil area up on the left fender well, blow that out with compressed air also and make sure it's totally dry. If it's wet, the coil can short out down to the frame and then the motor won't wanna rev out. Unless you were fording deep water and it was clear up to your head lights or something, then I wouldn't worry too much about water in the oil or anything. If there is any water in the oil, it will typically manifest itself on the dipstick or under the oil cap as a milkshake kinda foam. Sounds to me like water shorted out some of the ignition system... let her dry out for a few days or go through w/ compressed air and help dry everything out, then see. Since the motor runs hot, it will dry out on its own, but if you get water over by the coil or up inside the cap, that will take longer. My guess would be wet coil or maybe some water splashed up and get into the distributor cap a bit.
What if the door ‘free wheels’ so to speak, in other words, it just does not spring back. As if there is no spring in it.? Can that spring be replaced or even available???
Thankyou Ray from South Australia.
That would probably indicate a broken coil spring up top under the lid yes.
@@ray5961 Thankyou Ray, is the spring replaceable, as the complete unit for an 80 series L/C are only available from china and cost about $800 - $1000 Australian.
Thanks for your site, I have got more from you than other land cruiser sites .
Cheers
@@waynepinnegar7778 Thanks! Check Napa Auto also.. I bought my AFM from them when I first got my truck. They might have something that works for the Land Cruiser.
@@ray5961 thanks Ray, according to a few people down here, the AFM for the Camry V6 is the same, any comments in this regard?
Cheers
@@waynepinnegar7778 Knowing Toyota, that's quite possible, but I have no specific information on that either way.
I have a question i have a problem with my 22ret motor by any chance do you know what color is red and black on the fuel injector connector side
Black/red is the hot wire (+12V) for all 4 injectors. The injectors fire in pairs (1/3, then 2/4) the White/red wire controls firing injectors 1/3 via the ECU and the solid white controls 2/4.
@@ray5961 some one cut the harness from the injector side so i have aftermarket connectors which is black and red so red goes with ?and black goes wit?
@@neilbaris7251 Red should be +12V and black should be ground (although on the 22RE they use different colors). You can use a volt meter to check for +12V DC on the Toyota harness, which should be the black/red (stripe) wire as outlined above. If you have injectors with some cut off connector that just has a red wire and also a black wire, then the red wire side is gonna be +12V and the black is gonna be what would run to the ECU wires on the Toyota harness (I believe those are white and white/red). Do you have any testing equipment? Also, you can just test the injectors directly to the car battery (black to black, red to red) and you should hear them click on/off. I use this tester here for flow testing my injectors to make sure they work www.amazon.com/ALLOSUN-EM276-Fuel-Injector-Tester/dp/B0126MEK3C/ - let me know if you have any other questions.
This is valuable info. I’ve got a spare 22re AFM that I bought years back just because it was cheap. Think it might need this treatment. Although it did have an old dirt dauber nest inside too.
Yeah.. it was interesting to crack it open for cleaning. I was expecting a lot more under that plate actually :)
Do you have any idea what will cause my 93 pickup to idle high i turned the idle screw all the way out did not change
If you turn the screw all the way in (clockwise) the idle should go down. Counter clock wise (out), idle should go up. If there isn't much change when going through the full range of adjustment, it could be the O-ring is leaking air. Try removing the adjustment screw completely and hold your thumb over the hole, then put the screw all the way back in and put your thumb over the hole. See if there is any difference then. If not, check your rubber elbow for cracks, because it's common for those to age and start falling apart and there can be hidden cracks under there near where the radiator hose is. Also, make sure the lower hose for the IAC valve is warming up (and make sure the upper feed hose also is warm). The IAC valve raises the idle when cold, but it needs coolant flowing around it to turn off; if the coolant is very low in the motor and/or there is a blockage in the cooling system, those two little feed hoses may not be feeding coolant to the IAC (idle air control valve) and that will cause high idle also. Check to see if those hoses are hot when the motor is warmed up. Stuck door on the AFM will also do it, as outlined in this video.
@@ray5961 thank you for taking your time to answer I was going the wrong way with the idle screw
@@russellwilkey390 You're most welcome. I've turned it the wrong way myself and ended up off in the weeds of nothing works also :) Glad to hear it was an easy fix! Do you have the LCE adjuster? That's pretty nice to have.
Will this also cause a no start problem?
It could yes. If the door were stuck open, it could potentially create a hard starting condition and confuse the ECU as to what is going on basically.
I was a former owner of 3.0 V6 4Runner that I had a problem out of the air flow meter where the sweep was dirty. Once I took it apart and cleaned it my issue was solved. I sure miss that 3slow 4Runner.
Gracias
What if door is not stuck
If there is binding any where along the path of the door, it will negatively affect engine operation. However, as far as starting goes, as long as it's not binding in the initial part of the movement, then that shouldn't have any major impact when it comes to cranking over.
It cranking over and has spark and fuel but no start
@@joshcross5761 Could be your circuit opening relay is shot. I have some videos on that. Try this: go into the diag box, jumper Fp to B+ using a bent paper clip (turn ignition to ON and see if you hear your fuel pump running)... try starting and see if it fires right up.
Common name MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor)
Technically speaking, that is correct. However, these days, most people take MAF to mean the more modern hot wire design found in OBD2 systems, while the Toyota 22RE uses a volume metric based setup. In the TCCS manual, Toyota always refers to this specific vane style as "Air Flow Meter", so I try to adhere to their original nomenclature in the videos also. But yeah, AFM, MAF... same basic idea. Great run down here as well: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor
220w screw driver seems a bit dangerous 😂
lol yes it is very dangerous haha :)