Oh sure I could do this to if I had 20 years of experience, all the manuals, and a brand new 30 year old engine! My fuel pump works just not turning on! This is the absolute best video I e seen! Thank you
Sometimes I wonder why I've not found this video before, excellent explanation i can see clearly now " the rain's gone" u saved my brain lol. After replacing distributor, spark plugs, Igniter coil, wires and almost the whole engine, u showed me the way, all replaced parts are ok. Bullshit shops 🙄. Thank you so much
Literally this weekend I was trying to figure out this by looking at the electrical diagram. Finally figured it out like you said with the help of a teacher.
Thanks! Yeah, I did extensive cleaning on it.. if you check out some of my older videos, you can see it when I first bought it. This video is maybe 1 or 2 years old now.
It's the Toyota Electrical wiring manual. I touch on it here in this video (at the time mark included 1:09:25) th-cam.com/video/btO13aO_QLU/w-d-xo.html - super handy to have if you are doing any sort of electrical work. You can typically find them on eBay used for either your specific model or years close to it.
Thanks for the vid. I’m having a problem where the fuel pump isn’t turning on when I turn key on. Is pin 1&2 suppose to touch when key is turned to on.
well two things happen in order to get the motor going. When you crank the starter, it also sends power to the fuel pump using the circuit opening relay (see my other videos) and this fires the motor up and brings up the fuel pressure. Once the motor starts, air starts flowing through the AFM and the switch on pins 1 & 2 are connected and this continues to power the fuel pump via the opening circuit relay as long as air flows through the AFM. You can jump Fp and B+ in the diag box and manually force the fuel pump on for testing purposes.
@@cmossy970 if you jumper Fp & B+ and the fuel pump goes on, it will confirm that the opening circuit relay is good and that your fuel pump is working. Keep in mind: when you just turn the key to "on" the fuel pump isn't supposed to run. It only has power when the starter cranks and then when the engine is actually running. The only way to turn it on when the motor and/or starter aren't running is by jumping the Fp and B+ pins in the diagnostic port or by bridging pins 1 and 2 inside the 7 pin connector that goes to the AFM.
Ray, is it safe to run the truck with a jumper wire installed in place of the relay (key on/ fuel pump on) for a extended amount of time? I'm out of town and my truck died, I was able to figure out it was fuel pressure by cracking cold injector line while cranking and having no fuel. I made a jumper to bypass the relay and fuel pump runs if key is in on position. Will this be safe to run like this til I can get home (200mi)? I've got very limited tools with me and no real way to diagnose where the problem is. Thanks.
Sounds like the circuit opening relay died or maybe the contact points inside the AFM. Yes, totally no problem to drive like that. Jumper Fp to B+ in the diagnostic box and roll out. 200 miles, 500 miles, 10,000 miles - no sweat. You should be good to go, no problem. You can also do it at the relay, although a paper clip in the diag box is probably better.
Mine is the older style diagnostic plugs (86 22rte) i did find the fuel circuit check plug. I jumped it at the relay just to get off the side of the road. Tomorrow I'll try to plug the relay back in and jump at the test plug. If it works then my relay is working, if not then I know my relay is bad. Thanks for the quick reply.
Just to add some supplemental info to this. The plug under the passenger seat can cause issues. These trucks are now so old that the plug pins can get loose, burnt, corroded. I just battled a no fuel pump power issue and traced it to the blue wire (+ to fuel pump) the pins in the plug were loose and making intermittent contact causing the fuel pump to cut on and off. Took me quite a bit of trouble shooting to find the issue.
Hi Ray, thanks for the video. I’m getting code 25 on my 3vze for long time and after a valve adjustment it keeps showing so I started to troubleshoot different areas related with this code. Right now I was diagnostic the VAFM and got almost 0 resistance between E2 and VC, the rest are on the parameters. Today I got another used VAFM and I’m finding the same poor resistance between these two. Does I have so much bad luck or I’m taking the manual wrong?
Hi Ray , great video I’m having rough idle and stalling issues...also with ignition on (not running) I’m hearing a clicking noise near the ecu in the cab ..what u think?
Sounds like it could be a faulty circuit opening relay (it's located right above the ECU, near the right of the glove box). You might also want to check the contacts inside the AFM. Hard to say for sure, but I'd start by checking the condition of that relay in there.
Long shot here Ray but I have a 22RE that has a wandering idle and eventually stalls after it gets hot. Thinking it could be an issue with the relay or the MAF sensor itself. Any thoughts? Going to replace the relay and clean as much of the MAF sensor as I can. Will also check the intake boot for leaks. Anything I'm missing?
There's no MAF to clean; it's just a flow meter (air flow meter / AFM). As long as the door is opening inside it, that's about all you need there. I made that mistake when I first got my truck - I tried to unscrew what I thought was the MAF and ended up accidentally destroying the air flow meter, so be very careful. I'd start by cleaning your spark plugs. Run some Berryman Fuel injector cleaner through the tank also. You could have an issue with the IAC valve not closing (you can test this by putting some tape over the inlet hole - see my other videos). Also, try adjusting your idle up to something more like 850 to 900... sometimes that will help prevent the idle issues when you come to a stop when the motor is hot. Valve adjustment can also help, but usually if the valves are way out, you'll also get a misfire when driving along. Cleaning the spark plugs often helps a lot.
I have a 92 and after I purchased the Truck and cleaned the air intake I could no longer start it. I replaced and upgraded so much but I still can't get it started. I know that when it was running it had a funny howling kind of weird noise coming from under the hood then it would fix itself then act up. I got the truck as an extra truck and need help getting it running. From the alternator to the distributor and much more I replaced. Now the videos you have with the maf and with the air intake hole I am curious to see what that is as I replaced the air boot as well too since the old one was cracked. I can take photos and more if needed. Not sure if you have a way to get them though.
I'd check to make sure the switch inside the AFM is functional. Also you might want to check your circuit opening relay. Try jumping FP and B+ to bring fuel pressure up and see if it will fire up like that maybe?
Hey Roger - you're most welcome. I made that video last night basically for / because of you and our discussion regarding your truck. I'm glad it helps. Feel free to let me know if you have more questions :)
@@ray5961 Hey Ray I never offer to reach out and try and help people anymore or give out my email address what happens is they blow you off no replies or use you and get what they want and blow you off again never to be heard from again. So I have gotten very sour and jaded trying to help people and rarely do it . I offered to reach out and help you and offer my email address because I didn't think you rolled that way . Instead you treat me like everybody else and just read my offer to help and give me your back side and no reply. I never I repeat never off to do this for anybody anymore. Your snub and no reply really pissed me off because I was offering to do something for you in kindness because you have tried to help me and I was excited to send you the video on my 409 . When I get my youtube launched In return for my kindness towards you I get the cold shoulder and blown off and no reply ! Pretty f d up way to treat somebody dude when all I was trying to do is be kind and give back to you. But that is the way society rolls now days. I wont reply nor read you post . Thanks for the blow off and showing me your back side when I reached out to you to do something in kindness!
Can you do one following the blue cable from the circuit opening relay because I ain’t getting any positive power to the fuel pomp nor the relay I replaces the fuel pump the relay and the fuese link and I still aren’t getting any power to it. I replaced the switch too.
This video might help: th-cam.com/video/EpTED3Z2xo8/w-d-xo.html - did you try using the Diagnostic port near the fuse box and jumping B+ and FP to see if the fuel pump turns on? That blue wire you are talking about goes directly from the relay to the fuel pump, then from the fuel pump to chassis ground. Terminal FP in the diagnostic port is a bridge into the blue wire, which you can manually provide +12V on in order to test your fuel pump, etc. If jumping B+ to FP doesn't turn on the fuel pump, then either you have a break in the wire and/or a harness connector short or the fuel pump itself is dead. You might also want to try powering the blue lead directly at the circuit opening relay to see if the relay itself is not operating as it should (and/or the internal contacts perhaps are burnt / dirty). Anyway, that video should show you what you need to know to diagnose it further. Keep me posted on what you find out!
Hey thanks for the video really helped but mine is not working even when I move the flapper still not hearing the fuel pump come on what should I try next
Try jumping Fp and B+ in the diagnostic box (next to the fuse box) and see if the fuel pump is working. That will power it up directly, so you can see if it works or if it's the fuel pump that's dead. If you confirm that the fuel pump does work, then I would check the circuit opening relay (I have another video that shows it I think). That relay is in the right (passenger) side kick panel, next to the glove box. You wanna make sure that relay is working okay.
You need compression, spark and gas for any motor to run... I would pull the plugs out and clean them or install fresh plugs. You might have gas fouled plugs. Naturally, you are going to have to confirm you have fuel coming out of the fuel injectors. Sometimes when you pull the plugs on a motor which isn't starting, you can smell them and see if they smell like gas. Also, to ensure you have spark, pull the plug, put the wire on, then set the plug onto of the valve cover and make sure you see sparking. You may also want to reset the ECU by pulling the 15A EFI fuse out for 5 minutes.
I found out why my 22re will crank but won't fire. I opened the flapper at the AFM and boom it started. Should I open the box and check like you did? Or do I meed a new AFM. GREAT video.
I don't like to start in the rain either lol. Nothing jumps out at me. Usually starting issues relate to the cold start injector or just general poor tune up. I'd definitely check the inside of the distributor cap for moisture build up and/or carbon tracing. New spark plugs and wires could help as well. You might also want to run a compression check and see if you have low pressure in any of the cylinders.
very good video, Ok have a 94 cab plus two wheel I have restored I rebuilt the engine and the transmission when out . I parked it and it sat for a long time I went back out about two years ago tried to start it and no fuel . So I ordered a fuel pump for it and was getting ready to put it in. I have a Hanes manual and it sucks Monkey balls for location for the fuel pump fuse or location of the fuel pump relay , Any way I looked on You tube and saw the trick on firing the fuel pump from th dignostic terminal from B to FP I checked for power at B and I have none I checked with key on and nothing I checked for power at FP with key on and nothing . i went through all the fuses and on the drivers side no FP fuse there I pulled the panel for the ECM but there is no fuse for the FP but a fuse box for the AC and Heater I checked for power but it was dead I checked for battery and ignition and its dead at the terminal I still cant find the fuse for the fuel pump. I wonder if I might have a bad ignition switch. I checked all fusealble links at the box in the engine compartment and none looked blown. I checked all fuses at the box in the engine compartment there is none for the FP realy but all the fuses checked good ones for batter and ignition . The no power to the AC and Heater fuse and no power to the B term on the dignostic hooked up has me baffled . Is the B terminal ign only ? I cant find anything on You Tube the the Hanes like I said sucks monkey balls I still havent found the FB fuse to check for voltage can somebody help me? Thanks
Okay, basically it's like this: power comes from the battery, to the 15 amp EFI fuse in the fuse box (in the engine compartment). When you turn the key to on, it sends power through the 7.5 amp Ignition fuse (kick panel next to the clutch pedal). Power going through the 7.5 amp fuse energizes the EFI relay and that will make +B in the diagnostic box hot (i.e. +12V DC). If you jumper +B to FP (fuel pump), you are bypassing the circuit opening relay (which is in the panel over by the glove box). Check my other videos, I think I have one which covers it a little. You can also directly jump the solid blue wire in the circuit opening relay (by the glove box, under that panel in the foot well) directly to +12V at the battery terminal, which will directly power the fuel pump (thus bypassing the ignition circuit and EFI main relay. The EFI main relay is also located in the fuse box in the engine compartment, if you want to verify that it's working.
@@ray5961 Sure be easier if I had the right schematic but the hanes sucks, Ok I got both panels pulled on drivers and passengers. I do have power at the EFI fuse on the box in the engine compartment I assume that is the fuel pump relay fuse ? Because that is all I have. I have power on to both sides from ignition on the EFI fuse so I know that is good . But on B + on the dignostic terminal it is dead on either ignition or crank . Also I am dead on the Heater fuse and the AC Fuse above the ECM . I just called a Toyota dealer in Twin Falls and he verified I should have power at the B + terminal for the dignostic link and I told him the heater and AC fuses is dead also. I went through very fuse on this system Ray and I havent found one blown fuse. It did take the Mass Air off and popped the cover and flushed out with electronic cleaner and cleaned the terminal going into it because I new that is part of the circuit to energize the fuel pump it was clean inside I resealed the cap. I am thinking I have a bad ignition switch ? The service manager concurred with me after I went through all the check list it sounded like an ignition switch when the trans went out I parked it and Nevada desert with all the storms and cold and dust must of reeked havoc on it because it ran really good .I have almost two grand in the engine on the rebuild . The relay above the ECM that is the fuel pump relay correct? I checked that for ignition on and I did have power but the fuel pump wont pulse , I want to go pull the ignition switch and just tear it apart and look for bad contacts or dirt but the truck is out side and its blowing like a bitch today . Are the ignitions hard to pull on these? THANK YOU FOR TRYING TO HELP ME !
@@madmanmechanic8847 Could be the ignition switch, but it's hard to say. There is also a 30 amp fuse which is part of the mix for the ignition. When you turn the ignition switch does the car turn on? To check the ignition switch as it relates to the EFI system, put a volt meter on the 7.5 amp fuse in the kick panel to the left of the clutch pedal and over to ground (set to DC volts) and then work the ignition switch and see if it moves the needle. That 7.5A fuse should be dead when the ignition is off and +12V when the ignition is on. Also try this: jump the FP lead in the diagnostic box directly to the +12V battery post... see if the fuel pump kicks on. That's another direct route to the fuel pump. In other words, +B is only hot when the ignition and EFI relays, etc. are functioning, but if you jump FP right to the hot side of the battery, that fuel pump turns on - no ifs ands or buts - unless the pump itself is toast. Let me know
@@ray5961 Very clear and concise Ray with your instructions. The freaking wind finally died down late and I went out and figured out how to pull the ignition switch assembly. I looked in my manual and nothing and nothing on youtube but unbolted the steering collum and found the way to get to the ignition switch and pulled it out . I have worked on a lot of switches and torn them apart I used to do appliance repair and have torn hundreds of timers apart and serviced them and got them going again. I took the switch into the shop on the bench and took the switch apart , I doesnt look bad at all. They have grease from the factory for the contacts but I dont see any wearing on the contacts nor any dirt its pretty clean. In the morning I am going to do a major clean and put die electric on the contacts and do a clean and service. Ok Ray here is my game plan: I am going to pull the ECM before I do this test I dont want to smoke it . I will pull the cover on it and blow it out and clean the control board with contact cleaner then I am going to clean the terminals also and the plug in on the ECM . Here is the reason I am pulling the ECM for this test. With the ignition switch out I am going to back voltage the circuit on the b + terminal and check the connector for the ignition switch. The reason I am pulling the ECM I dont want to take a chance of frying the ECM with a back voltage the circuit. With voltage applied to the B + circuit and I back trace the circuit and either find a broken wire or some corrosion on a plug in. Like I said I live in Nv and it gets cold and windy and its hell on cars when they sit out side. To answer your question on crank I went to crank the engine over I could hear the solenoid click but it would not crank. I am afraid I might of gotten moisture in the cylinders , and the engine is locked up. When I got done tearing apart the ign switch I pull the plugs on the engine and dumped in a shit load of Marvel to let is soak. The bolt on the Harmonic balancer is hard to get to so I am pulling the radiator so can get a socket and breaker bar on the bolt. I did get the antifreeze dumped . I just need to get this no pump issue figured out so I can move on to the engine. Thanks Bud@
I love videos like this to explain what my service manual shows me. Thank you so much!
Thanks!
Oh sure I could do this to if I had 20 years of experience, all the manuals, and a brand new 30 year old engine! My fuel pump works just not turning on! This is the absolute best video I e seen! Thank you
Thanks man!
Sometimes I wonder why I've not found this video before, excellent explanation i can see clearly now " the rain's gone" u saved my brain lol. After replacing distributor, spark plugs, Igniter coil, wires and almost the whole engine, u showed me the way, all replaced parts are ok. Bullshit shops 🙄. Thank you so much
Literally this weekend I was trying to figure out this by looking at the electrical diagram. Finally figured it out like you said with the help of a teacher.
That engine looks like brand new.
Beautiful engine.👍👍👍
Thanks! Many hours of cleaning :-)
wicked. thanks for the quality content.
...Geesh....How long ago was this video made ?....That engine and compartment look Brand NEW !!!...
Thanks! Yeah, I did extensive cleaning on it.. if you check out some of my older videos, you can see it when I first bought it. This video is maybe 1 or 2 years old now.
What book is that?
It's the Toyota Electrical wiring manual. I touch on it here in this video (at the time mark included 1:09:25) th-cam.com/video/btO13aO_QLU/w-d-xo.html - super handy to have if you are doing any sort of electrical work. You can typically find them on eBay used for either your specific model or years close to it.
Thanks for the vid. I’m having a problem where the fuel pump isn’t turning on when I turn key on. Is pin 1&2 suppose to touch when key is turned to on.
well two things happen in order to get the motor going. When you crank the starter, it also sends power to the fuel pump using the circuit opening relay (see my other videos) and this fires the motor up and brings up the fuel pressure. Once the motor starts, air starts flowing through the AFM and the switch on pins 1 & 2 are connected and this continues to power the fuel pump via the opening circuit relay as long as air flows through the AFM. You can jump Fp and B+ in the diag box and manually force the fuel pump on for testing purposes.
So I jumped the fuel pumped and it works I just don’t know why it’s not turning on when I turn key to on.
@@cmossy970 if you jumper Fp & B+ and the fuel pump goes on, it will confirm that the opening circuit relay is good and that your fuel pump is working. Keep in mind: when you just turn the key to "on" the fuel pump isn't supposed to run. It only has power when the starter cranks and then when the engine is actually running. The only way to turn it on when the motor and/or starter aren't running is by jumping the Fp and B+ pins in the diagnostic port or by bridging pins 1 and 2 inside the 7 pin connector that goes to the AFM.
Now I understand. Thanks for the explanation!
Another thing is I did a fuel pressure test and had no pressure when “on” but at idling there was is that normal?
Ray, is it safe to run the truck with a jumper wire installed in place of the relay (key on/ fuel pump on) for a extended amount of time? I'm out of town and my truck died, I was able to figure out it was fuel pressure by cracking cold injector line while cranking and having no fuel. I made a jumper to bypass the relay and fuel pump runs if key is in on position. Will this be safe to run like this til I can get home (200mi)? I've got very limited tools with me and no real way to diagnose where the problem is. Thanks.
Sounds like the circuit opening relay died or maybe the contact points inside the AFM. Yes, totally no problem to drive like that. Jumper Fp to B+ in the diagnostic box and roll out. 200 miles, 500 miles, 10,000 miles - no sweat. You should be good to go, no problem. You can also do it at the relay, although a paper clip in the diag box is probably better.
Mine is the older style diagnostic plugs (86 22rte) i did find the fuel circuit check plug. I jumped it at the relay just to get off the side of the road. Tomorrow I'll try to plug the relay back in and jump at the test plug. If it works then my relay is working, if not then I know my relay is bad. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@renarderickson You got it man. As long as you can jump something to get the fuel pump on, you should be fine to drive.
Which manual is that? My Haynes is mediocre for electrical, at best.
It's the Toyota factory electrical manual. You can usually find them on ebay. Super handy.
Just to add some supplemental info to this. The plug under the passenger seat can cause issues. These trucks are now so old that the plug pins can get loose, burnt, corroded. I just battled a no fuel pump power issue and traced it to the blue wire (+ to fuel pump) the pins in the plug were loose and making intermittent contact causing the fuel pump to cut on and off. Took me quite a bit of trouble shooting to find the issue.
Hi Ray, thanks for the video. I’m getting code 25 on my 3vze for long time and after a valve adjustment it keeps showing so I started to troubleshoot different areas related with this code. Right now I was diagnostic the VAFM and got almost 0 resistance between E2 and VC, the rest are on the parameters. Today I got another used VAFM and I’m finding the same poor resistance between these two.
Does I have so much bad luck or I’m taking the manual wrong?
This link might help - I don't have an answer for you off the top of my head: www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml
Hi Ray , great video I’m having rough idle and stalling issues...also with ignition on (not running) I’m hearing a clicking noise near the ecu in the cab ..what u think?
Sounds like it could be a faulty circuit opening relay (it's located right above the ECU, near the right of the glove box). You might also want to check the contacts inside the AFM. Hard to say for sure, but I'd start by checking the condition of that relay in there.
Long shot here Ray but I have a 22RE that has a wandering idle and eventually stalls after it gets hot. Thinking it could be an issue with the relay or the MAF sensor itself. Any thoughts? Going to replace the relay and clean as much of the MAF sensor as I can. Will also check the intake boot for leaks. Anything I'm missing?
There's no MAF to clean; it's just a flow meter (air flow meter / AFM). As long as the door is opening inside it, that's about all you need there. I made that mistake when I first got my truck - I tried to unscrew what I thought was the MAF and ended up accidentally destroying the air flow meter, so be very careful. I'd start by cleaning your spark plugs. Run some Berryman Fuel injector cleaner through the tank also. You could have an issue with the IAC valve not closing (you can test this by putting some tape over the inlet hole - see my other videos). Also, try adjusting your idle up to something more like 850 to 900... sometimes that will help prevent the idle issues when you come to a stop when the motor is hot. Valve adjustment can also help, but usually if the valves are way out, you'll also get a misfire when driving along. Cleaning the spark plugs often helps a lot.
I have a 92 and after I purchased the Truck and cleaned the air intake I could no longer start it. I replaced and upgraded so much but I still can't get it started. I know that when it was running it had a funny howling kind of weird noise coming from under the hood then it would fix itself then act up. I got the truck as an extra truck and need help getting it running. From the alternator to the distributor and much more I replaced. Now the videos you have with the maf and with the air intake hole I am curious to see what that is as I replaced the air boot as well too since the old one was cracked. I can take photos and more if needed. Not sure if you have a way to get them though.
I'd check to make sure the switch inside the AFM is functional. Also you might want to check your circuit opening relay. Try jumping FP and B+ to bring fuel pressure up and see if it will fire up like that maybe?
Ray I watched both videos the newest one helps a lot I left you a message on there thanks bud
Hey Roger - you're most welcome. I made that video last night basically for / because of you and our discussion regarding your truck. I'm glad it helps. Feel free to let me know if you have more questions :)
@@ray5961 Hey Ray I never offer to reach out and try and help people anymore or give out my email address what happens is they blow you off no replies or use you and get what they want and blow you off again never to be heard from again. So I have gotten very sour and jaded trying to help people and rarely do it . I offered to reach out and help you and offer my email address because I didn't think you rolled that way . Instead you treat me like everybody else and just read my offer to help and give me your back side and no reply. I never I repeat never off to do this for anybody anymore. Your snub and no reply really pissed me off because I was offering to do something for you in kindness because you have tried to help me and I was excited to send you the video on my 409 . When I get my youtube launched In return for my kindness towards you I get the cold shoulder and blown off and no reply ! Pretty f d up way to treat somebody dude when all I was trying to do is be kind and give back to you. But that is the way society rolls now days. I wont reply nor read you post . Thanks for the blow off and showing me your back side when I reached out to you to do something in kindness!
Ray what is the name of the repair manuel you are using
It's the Toyota factory electrical manual for the pickup truck. You can usually find them used on ebay
Can you do one following the blue cable from the circuit opening relay because I ain’t getting any positive power to the fuel pomp nor the relay I replaces the fuel pump the relay and the fuese link and I still aren’t getting any power to it. I replaced the switch too.
This video might help: th-cam.com/video/EpTED3Z2xo8/w-d-xo.html - did you try using the Diagnostic port near the fuse box and jumping B+ and FP to see if the fuel pump turns on? That blue wire you are talking about goes directly from the relay to the fuel pump, then from the fuel pump to chassis ground. Terminal FP in the diagnostic port is a bridge into the blue wire, which you can manually provide +12V on in order to test your fuel pump, etc. If jumping B+ to FP doesn't turn on the fuel pump, then either you have a break in the wire and/or a harness connector short or the fuel pump itself is dead. You might also want to try powering the blue lead directly at the circuit opening relay to see if the relay itself is not operating as it should (and/or the internal contacts perhaps are burnt / dirty). Anyway, that video should show you what you need to know to diagnose it further. Keep me posted on what you find out!
Hey thanks for the video really helped but mine is not working even when I move the flapper still not hearing the fuel pump come on what should I try next
Try jumping Fp and B+ in the diagnostic box (next to the fuse box) and see if the fuel pump is working. That will power it up directly, so you can see if it works or if it's the fuel pump that's dead. If you confirm that the fuel pump does work, then I would check the circuit opening relay (I have another video that shows it I think). That relay is in the right (passenger) side kick panel, next to the glove box. You wanna make sure that relay is working okay.
Help me. I got a 94 with a crank no start. I have spark, pretty sure I’m getting fuel but I spray starter fluid and it still won’t start
You need compression, spark and gas for any motor to run... I would pull the plugs out and clean them or install fresh plugs. You might have gas fouled plugs. Naturally, you are going to have to confirm you have fuel coming out of the fuel injectors. Sometimes when you pull the plugs on a motor which isn't starting, you can smell them and see if they smell like gas. Also, to ensure you have spark, pull the plug, put the wire on, then set the plug onto of the valve cover and make sure you see sparking. You may also want to reset the ECU by pulling the 15A EFI fuse out for 5 minutes.
Great information. Thank you.
I found out why my 22re will crank but won't fire. I opened the flapper at the AFM and boom it started. Should I open the box and check like you did? Or do I meed a new AFM. GREAT video.
check you intake rubber boot for cracks first.Also the plastic cross over pipe and coupling hoses
Did you also have alot of over fueling to the point you have gas in the oil? That's what's I have
@GunnerKrey-xk7pb no I didn't. All is fixed now. It was the cold start injector not mating.
I tried this on my 1988 and I still have no power to my fuel pump
Check the relay itself.
1989 Toyota 22re OEM. Don't like to start in the rain..
I don't like to start in the rain either lol. Nothing jumps out at me. Usually starting issues relate to the cold start injector or just general poor tune up. I'd definitely check the inside of the distributor cap for moisture build up and/or carbon tracing. New spark plugs and wires could help as well. You might also want to run a compression check and see if you have low pressure in any of the cylinders.
Gt any clues.
Hey ray, was wondering what manual you are using. Seems way more in depth than the wiring diagrams I have in my book. Thanks.
It's the Toyota factory electrical manual. Search on eBay for "Toyota truck electrical manual" and you should find them used. Silver cover.
very good video, Ok have a 94 cab plus two wheel I have restored I rebuilt the engine and the transmission when out . I parked it and it sat for a long time I went back out about two years ago tried to start it and no fuel . So I ordered a fuel pump for it and was getting ready to put it in. I have a Hanes manual and it sucks Monkey balls for location for the fuel pump fuse or location of the fuel pump relay , Any way I looked on You tube and saw the trick on firing the fuel pump from th dignostic terminal from B to FP I checked for power at B and I have none I checked with key on and nothing I checked for power at FP with key on and nothing . i went through all the fuses and on the drivers side no FP fuse there I pulled the panel for the ECM but there is no fuse for the FP but a fuse box for the AC and Heater I checked for power but it was dead I checked for battery and ignition and its dead at the terminal I still cant find the fuse for the fuel pump. I wonder if I might have a bad ignition switch. I checked all fusealble links at the box in the engine compartment and none looked blown. I checked all fuses at the box in the engine compartment there is none for the FP realy but all the fuses checked good ones for batter and ignition . The no power to the AC and Heater fuse and no power to the B term on the dignostic hooked up has me baffled . Is the B terminal ign only ? I cant find anything on You Tube the the Hanes like I said sucks monkey balls I still havent found the FB fuse to check for voltage can somebody help me? Thanks
Okay, basically it's like this: power comes from the battery, to the 15 amp EFI fuse in the fuse box (in the engine compartment). When you turn the key to on, it sends power through the 7.5 amp Ignition fuse (kick panel next to the clutch pedal). Power going through the 7.5 amp fuse energizes the EFI relay and that will make +B in the diagnostic box hot (i.e. +12V DC). If you jumper +B to FP (fuel pump), you are bypassing the circuit opening relay (which is in the panel over by the glove box). Check my other videos, I think I have one which covers it a little. You can also directly jump the solid blue wire in the circuit opening relay (by the glove box, under that panel in the foot well) directly to +12V at the battery terminal, which will directly power the fuel pump (thus bypassing the ignition circuit and EFI main relay. The EFI main relay is also located in the fuse box in the engine compartment, if you want to verify that it's working.
@@ray5961 Sure be easier if I had the right schematic but the hanes sucks, Ok I got both panels pulled on drivers and passengers. I do have power at the EFI fuse on the box in the engine compartment I assume that is the fuel pump relay fuse ? Because that is all I have. I have power on to both sides from ignition on the EFI fuse so I know that is good . But on B + on the dignostic terminal it is dead on either ignition or crank . Also I am dead on the Heater fuse and the AC Fuse above the ECM . I just called a Toyota dealer in Twin Falls and he verified I should have power at the B + terminal for the dignostic link and I told him the heater and AC fuses is dead also. I went through very fuse on this system Ray and I havent found one blown fuse. It did take the Mass Air off and popped the cover and flushed out with electronic cleaner and cleaned the terminal going into it because I new that is part of the circuit to energize the fuel pump it was clean inside I resealed the cap. I am thinking I have a bad ignition switch ? The service manager concurred with me after I went through all the check list it sounded like an ignition switch when the trans went out I parked it and Nevada desert with all the storms and cold and dust must of reeked havoc on it because it ran really good .I have almost two grand in the engine on the rebuild . The relay above the ECM that is the fuel pump relay correct? I checked that for ignition on and I did have power but the fuel pump wont pulse , I want to go pull the ignition switch and just tear it apart and look for bad contacts or dirt but the truck is out side and its blowing like a bitch today . Are the ignitions hard to pull on these? THANK YOU FOR TRYING TO HELP ME !
@@madmanmechanic8847 Could be the ignition switch, but it's hard to say. There is also a 30 amp fuse which is part of the mix for the ignition. When you turn the ignition switch does the car turn on? To check the ignition switch as it relates to the EFI system, put a volt meter on the 7.5 amp fuse in the kick panel to the left of the clutch pedal and over to ground (set to DC volts) and then work the ignition switch and see if it moves the needle. That 7.5A fuse should be dead when the ignition is off and +12V when the ignition is on. Also try this: jump the FP lead in the diagnostic box directly to the +12V battery post... see if the fuel pump kicks on. That's another direct route to the fuel pump. In other words, +B is only hot when the ignition and EFI relays, etc. are functioning, but if you jump FP right to the hot side of the battery, that fuel pump turns on - no ifs ands or buts - unless the pump itself is toast. Let me know
@@ray5961 Very clear and concise Ray with your instructions. The freaking wind finally died down late and I went out and figured out how to pull the ignition switch assembly. I looked in my manual and nothing and nothing on youtube but unbolted the steering collum and found the way to get to the ignition switch and pulled it out . I have worked on a lot of switches and torn them apart I used to do appliance repair and have torn hundreds of timers apart and serviced them and got them going again. I took the switch into the shop on the bench and took the switch apart , I doesnt look bad at all. They have grease from the factory for the contacts but I dont see any wearing on the contacts nor any dirt its pretty clean. In the morning I am going to do a major clean and put die electric on the contacts and do a clean and service. Ok Ray here is my game plan: I am going to pull the ECM before I do this test I dont want to smoke it . I will pull the cover on it and blow it out and clean the control board with contact cleaner then I am going to clean the terminals also and the plug in on the ECM . Here is the reason I am pulling the ECM for this test. With the ignition switch out I am going to back voltage the circuit on the b + terminal and check the connector for the ignition switch. The reason I am pulling the ECM I dont want to take a chance of frying the ECM with a back voltage the circuit. With voltage applied to the B + circuit and I back trace the circuit and either find a broken wire or some corrosion on a plug in. Like I said I live in Nv and it gets cold and windy and its hell on cars when they sit out side. To answer your question on crank I went to crank the engine over I could hear the solenoid click but it would not crank. I am afraid I might of gotten moisture in the cylinders , and the engine is locked up. When I got done tearing apart the ign switch I pull the plugs on the engine and dumped in a shit load of Marvel to let is soak. The bolt on the Harmonic balancer is hard to get to so I am pulling the radiator so can get a socket and breaker bar on the bolt. I did get the antifreeze dumped . I just need to get this no pump issue figured out so I can move on to the engine. Thanks Bud@
@@madmanmechanic8847 make sure you have a fully charged battery also. Good luck over there! If you have any more questions, let me know.