Thank you very much for your video, following your explanation I was able to solve a rich mixture problem in a 22R-E engine (oxygen sensor voltage fixed at 0.9v). The signal voltage of the VAF sensor at idle was 6.7v, after adjusting the sensor, the voltage dropped to 5.8v and the oxygen sensor began to oscillate correctly and the engine has regained stability at idle speed. greetings from Chile
You would turn it to lossen the tension so counter clockwise but only a click at a time because you’d be surprised how much that thing can change how the rig runs! I learned the hard way and was Messi g around and accidentally went like 10 clicks one time and I’ve been fighting it for over a year to get it right again cause there are so many factors that can change! But if you lighting the door pressure should be easier so not as much fuel to mix with less air!
It would be great if you add in details to your description about the what and why of this. You demonstrate an adjustment but say nothing about why you are doing it, the vehicle this is off of, etc. Without that information this video makes no sense at all.
This VAF Vane Airflow Meter, measure how much air is entering an engine. Many 80s and 90s vehicles used them. He is showing how to adjust the spring tension on the flap that meters the air. The farther the door is ope, the more fuel the computer injects. By increasing spring tension, making the door harder to open, you are telling the computer that less air is coming in. It will inject less fuel, leaning the mixture. Make the door swing more easily and the computer thinks more air, so more fuel. People sometimes install larger fuel injectors and adjust this spring to tell the computer that less air is coming in. The larger injectors inject a proportionally higher amount, so this compensates.
Anyone know where factory position should be? I got a festiva and the timing belt snapped and back fired. The pawl isn't even in the teeth now and dies when I give it throttle. Already re did the timing. I am a mechanic but there's almost no info online
Quick question. Noticed on mine, as it sits closed the door has a slight gap on what would be the right hand side if you were looking into the port. Is this normal? Or when the door is closed it should be flush with the wall? Experiencing code 24+32 currently. 91 3.0
did this same thing last weekend while tearing my 1988 down for a head gasket replacement. i tore the whole thing out tho. I plan on re soldering it. felt like a big ole dummy when I ripped that connector out.
A question - I bought a new AFM for my 1991 Toyota truck V6. But when I install it, the truck only runs for a few seconds, then dies (It seems like I smell fuel). If I install the old one, it starts immediately and does not die. I am confused; Is it necessary to somehow reset the ACU to the new AFM, or something like that? (I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it made no difference). Thanks for any ideas!
Have the exact same problem. I noticed on ebay they sell 2 different part #'s, but claim they are both the same - 22rec: 22250-35020 and 3vze (v6): 22250-65010 - is the only difference this spring gear on the inside?
@@jf8461 did some more testing - the codes on the engine were 1. air temp sensor open, 2. AFM open, 3. knock sensor open. So I cleared the codes and drove it for a few miles with the old AFM re-installed - it threw one engine code this time - knock sensor open. I think my homemade pigtail that I soldered on has bit the dust. I ordered a new pigtail, waiting for it to ship.
I solved this a couple times. Make sure your intake hoses are good, if you have cracks, the MAF won't have an accurate reading of air flow, also make sure you've cleaned your MAF. The other problem that'll do this is a buildup of varnish and carbon on the throttle body door leading to it getting stuck
Clockwise for leaner, anti clockwise for richer. However, only do it AFTER the engine is fully warmed up AND in the presence of a CO2 exhaust gas analyser. Don't be guessing your fuel air mixture.
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Thanks dude. Short and to the point without a bunch of superfluous information ❤
Thank you very much for your video, following your explanation I was able to solve a rich mixture problem in a 22R-E engine (oxygen sensor voltage fixed at 0.9v).
The signal voltage of the VAF sensor at idle was 6.7v, after adjusting the sensor, the voltage dropped to 5.8v and the oxygen sensor began to oscillate correctly and the engine has regained stability at idle speed.
greetings from Chile
Great video!
You would turn it to lossen the tension so counter clockwise but only a click at a time because you’d be surprised how much that thing can change how the rig runs! I learned the hard way and was Messi g around and accidentally went like 10 clicks one time and I’ve been fighting it for over a year to get it right again cause there are so many factors that can change! But if you lighting the door pressure should be easier so not as much fuel to mix with less air!
If you do what with the door plz? I am trying to mod my van😉
It would be great if you add in details to your description about the what and why of this. You demonstrate an adjustment but say nothing about why you are doing it, the vehicle this is off of, etc. Without that information this video makes no sense at all.
This VAF Vane Airflow Meter, measure how much air is entering an engine. Many 80s and 90s vehicles used them. He is showing how to adjust the spring tension on the flap that meters the air. The farther the door is ope, the more fuel the computer injects. By increasing spring tension, making the door harder to open, you are telling the computer that less air is coming in. It will inject less fuel, leaning the mixture. Make the door swing more easily and the computer thinks more air, so more fuel. People sometimes install larger fuel injectors and adjust this spring to tell the computer that less air is coming in. The larger injectors inject a proportionally higher amount, so this compensates.
Anyone know where factory position should be? I got a festiva and the timing belt snapped and back fired. The pawl isn't even in the teeth now and dies when I give it throttle. Already re did the timing. I am a mechanic but there's almost no info online
Thanks in advance. Trying to keep this old gal on the road.
Quick question. Noticed on mine, as it sits closed the door has a slight gap on what would be the right hand side if you were looking into the port. Is this normal? Or when the door is closed it should be flush with the wall? Experiencing code 24+32 currently. 91 3.0
I think i spoiled the AFM on my 1992 MPV as i unscrewed the sensor and tugged on it.
Now it doesn’t hold idle well and stalls. Can i fix it?
did this same thing last weekend while tearing my 1988 down for a head gasket replacement. i tore the whole thing out tho. I plan on re soldering it. felt like a big ole dummy when I ripped that connector out.
A question - I bought a new AFM for my 1991 Toyota truck V6. But when I install it, the truck only runs for a few seconds, then dies (It seems like I smell fuel). If I install the old one, it starts immediately and does not die. I am confused; Is it necessary to somehow reset the ACU to the new AFM, or something like that? (I tried disconnecting the battery for a while, but it made no difference). Thanks for any ideas!
Have the exact same problem. I noticed on ebay they sell 2 different part #'s, but claim they are both the same - 22rec: 22250-35020 and 3vze (v6): 22250-65010 - is the only difference this spring gear on the inside?
@@bawhjth Thanks! This seems like a clue.
@@jf8461 did some more testing - the codes on the engine were 1. air temp sensor open, 2. AFM open, 3. knock sensor open. So I cleared the codes and drove it for a few miles with the old AFM re-installed - it threw one engine code this time - knock sensor open. I think my homemade pigtail that I soldered on has bit the dust. I ordered a new pigtail, waiting for it to ship.
I solved this a couple times. Make sure your intake hoses are good, if you have cracks, the MAF won't have an accurate reading of air flow, also make sure you've cleaned your MAF. The other problem that'll do this is a buildup of varnish and carbon on the throttle body door leading to it getting stuck
how shall i turn it then if i am having high fuel consumption ? will i need to loosen the gear or tighten it?
Clockwise for leaner, anti clockwise for richer. However, only do it AFTER the engine is fully warmed up AND in the presence of a CO2 exhaust gas analyser. Don't be guessing your fuel air mixture.
You would loosen it so that door opens easier to get more airflow for a rich mixture.
Spring would be adjusted counter-clockwise.
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