Definitely need to adjust that top link. I just finished grading my driveway with one of those and found the best way to get a nice smooth drive was to adjust the top link so the front blade dug in just slightly more than the back (you can actually set it on perfectly flat ground and adjust the top link until it's just snug and it *should* be enough, but trial will tell if you need a little more). The downside to this is that you do have to adjust the 3-point as you go, but it makes it possible to get a super smooth finish (with the right kind of material, that is). You want the front blade to fill up to the point it spills over while the back blade should never spill over, just slightly build up material on the blade. This is because your front blade is your rougher and your back blade is your finisher. If either of your blades don't have material on them at all times while you're engaging the ground, you're not using it right.
I noticed those same points while I was watching this video. I have watched several videos, from different sources, and none of them seem to take the time to tell you how to set this device up properly for use. Depending on the depth of material you want to move, it seems you should set the front blade slightly deeper than the rear blade. It also seems like it's important to make sure the skids on either side are level/parallel to the ground. If the front or rear of the grading scraper is too high, the device isn't doing what it's intended to do. I wonder if it would work on a slag driveway? Slag seems to become very compact and interlocked over time.
Two other factors are attachment weight and conditions. If you don't have enough weight, you'll be waiting for conditions to be correct so you can use these tools. I maintain a half-mile stone drive and a 400lb 5' box blade won't penetrate during the dry summer months and just skates across the compacted crusher run. I ordered an 800lb 6' grader to try and resolve that to let me work when I have time vs. rushing to do this job when conditions are more optimal. Box blades and grader/land planes often come in different build levels and with these implements get what you can pull.
It looks like the front blade was not doing much work. It should do better if the top link was adjusted to allow the plane to run flat on the ground. If either the front or back blade isn’t picking up material, then double check to make sure top link is correct
100% agree with you there. ive tried one of these before and I find that my scrapper box seems to do a better job drive around with the front blade ripping with the teeth down a notch then after its all loosened up I level the box off with the top link and drag it out
As Niel has demonstrated, another use for this grader is Planting Go Pros! I wonder how fast they grow? Probably faster with some rain! Neil, your a good egg in the long run! sdh in the TOBACCO VALLEY of CT
💥 Another terrific video Neil! I’ve heard them called land planes more often than scrapers. Different parts of the country I suppose. Keep on tractoring! 👍
Neil, please do make a follow up video with the gravel. I have this with an L3301, and as a brand new tractor owner, this thing is amazing. It's like "grading for dummies" :)
Any advice on how deep to set the scraper blades depending on job? I just got a Land Pride Land Plane and want to take some potholes out of our well travelled dirt road.
I have this same land plane, and I find my quick hitch won’t work with it but works with my other implements. The triangle supports get in the way. Are they supposed to be removed to be quick hitch compatable?
Hi I was wondering if you could do a video about box blades how to use them grade, and maybe how to use one to move alot of dirt and maybe with a Hydraulic top link
The best implement that i've found for leveling would be a Land Pride Power Rake. I have a APS1572 and it has eliminated the need for a box blade, soil pulverizer, and tiller.
One important issue for those of us on limited budgets: I have been told that anything one can do with a grading scraper one can also do just as well with a box blade, but there are things that a box blade will do that just cannot be done with a scraper. Is that a true statement?
Just curious if you are floating the 3-point. My assumption, it is not in the float position? We plan on using our grader scraper with a M4D installing trail system.
@@MessicksEquip Can you explain page 87 of M4D manual 4. Float control Place both the draft control lever and the position control lever in the float position to make the lower links move freely along with the ground conditions.
@@cobar2 For leveling the surface, you will normally use the float position. This helps prevent gouging the surface you are trying to level as the tractor tilts back and forth over irregularities. An M4D is a whole different beast. Not only does if have position control standard (which is rare even as an option in sub-compact and compact tractors), but you will need a larger, more heavily built scraper - I would be looking at an 8' heavy duty. An M4D could probably rip the blades off of most 5' scrapers.
Looks pretty good. Looks like you still got some work to do though. Do you think it would have done better taking the bumps out with the scarifier blades in after you turned 90degrees to your first pass? I might have to consider getting one of these eventually. Thanks Neil
The trash in the field was the issue. The scarfiers ended up dragging all the debris along. I kept making a few more passes which continued to flatten it out.
Could a BX23S lift and pull that 60" grader (assuming moderate grading, not deep ground engagement)? Land Pride says it weighs 511lb. I know there's a GS0560 option at 350lb, but always buying the beefier version seems like a good practice, and especially good if someone later decides to upgrade to a more powerful tractor.
I just bought a 60” land plane from EA attachments. I’m using a L2501 to pull it. Honestly I wish I had went with the 54” model. The land plane actually pulls harder than a full box blade. I was very surprised how hard it pulled. I’ve learned not to put the 3 point arm all the way down. After several passes, it will keep going deeper because the ground is broken up. I’m no expert, I just wanna help out the next guy. Good luck.
Gotta love whiny old hydrostat transmissions😂 for loader work and landscaping there a no brainer, but in the field I’d rather have a geared transmission.
TheWorksOutdoors !! True. I miss my shuttle. I went to HST on my new tractor because I have so much loader work to clean my property up where we moved a few years ago. I loved the gear drive when mowing my fields or doing anything in the pasture. But I can’t complain too much, I get tons of work done with the HST that would have destroyed the clutch on my last tractor :)
@@remb9614 I am almost certain that the geared transmissions are more efficient and put more power to the ground. I have always used geared tractors, but I do think if you were doing a lot of loader work, the ease of the HST would be hard to ignore.
Jake B I agree with Andrew. I had a NH WM 55 and now have a Kubota L6060HSTC. In low first the NH with the gears would pull until the wheels spun. I haven’t been able to stop the Kubota HST in low/low either, but it feels like I had more power before pulling uphill. The HST definitely takes away some power, but that’s why I went up slightly in HP to account for it. The HST is so much better around the house, edges of the field, around the barn, etc. My needs changed and the HST definitely does what I expected.
Matt Jenkins that’s kind of what I thought. I think for yard work, mowing, and loader work on just a few acres the hst is the way to go for me. I have a 30hp hst, but I often wonder how much pushing power I’m losing. I think I could deal with a shuttle shift if it meant I had substantially more power in the same tractor.
Yes. I have Gs1548 on my bx2380. Amazing for gravel driveway repair. I use it twice a year and my drive looks new all the time. Fills in holes and ruts, rips out weeds, and no additional gravel needed.
If you are going to advertise a piece of equipment you first need to learn how to use the product first. In showing this video you show that the front blade is higher than the rear grade. Having it set up this way is cutting your grading efficiency in half because your front blade is not doing any work. You need to have both blades level so that your front blade is cutting and holdings some material while your rear blade is acting more like a box blade to just carry material that has spilled over from the front blade so that when you get to those larger holes that the front blade doesn't have enough material to fill that the rear blade comes in as backup and can deposit more into that hill.
Your correct. I adjusted it later. That's one of the tough parts of making videos. We're always rushed, and too often we end up shooting before everything is really dialed in.
I don't disagree with the sentiment at all. I hate seeing fields turned into developments. In this case, this is somewhere between a field and a swamp. It's not particularly productive.
Definitely need to adjust that top link. I just finished grading my driveway with one of those and found the best way to get a nice smooth drive was to adjust the top link so the front blade dug in just slightly more than the back (you can actually set it on perfectly flat ground and adjust the top link until it's just snug and it *should* be enough, but trial will tell if you need a little more). The downside to this is that you do have to adjust the 3-point as you go, but it makes it possible to get a super smooth finish (with the right kind of material, that is). You want the front blade to fill up to the point it spills over while the back blade should never spill over, just slightly build up material on the blade. This is because your front blade is your rougher and your back blade is your finisher. If either of your blades don't have material on them at all times while you're engaging the ground, you're not using it right.
I noticed those same points while I was watching this video. I have watched several videos, from different sources, and none of them seem to take the time to tell you how to set this device up properly for use. Depending on the depth of material you want to move, it seems you should set the front blade slightly deeper than the rear blade. It also seems like it's important to make sure the skids on either side are level/parallel to the ground. If the front or rear of the grading scraper is too high, the device isn't doing what it's intended to do. I wonder if it would work on a slag driveway? Slag seems to become very compact and interlocked over time.
Yet another implement that will make you soooooo glad you invested in a top-n-tilt!
best video I found on that implement
Two other factors are attachment weight and conditions. If you don't have enough weight, you'll be waiting for conditions to be correct so you can use these tools. I maintain a half-mile stone drive and a 400lb 5' box blade won't penetrate during the dry summer months and just skates across the compacted crusher run. I ordered an 800lb 6' grader to try and resolve that to let me work when I have time vs. rushing to do this job when conditions are more optimal. Box blades and grader/land planes often come in different build levels and with these implements get what you can pull.
It looks like the front blade was not doing much work. It should do better if the top link was adjusted to allow the plane to run flat on the ground. If either the front or back blade isn’t picking up material, then double check to make sure top link is correct
100% agree with you there. ive tried one of these before and I find that my scrapper box seems to do a better job drive around with the front blade ripping with the teeth down a notch then after its all loosened up I level the box off with the top link and drag it out
As Niel has demonstrated, another use for this grader is Planting Go Pros! I wonder how fast they grow? Probably faster with some rain! Neil, your a good egg in the long run! sdh in the TOBACCO VALLEY of CT
💥 Another terrific video Neil! I’ve heard them called land planes more often than scrapers. Different parts of the country I suppose.
Keep on tractoring! 👍
Neil, please do make a follow up video with the gravel. I have this with an L3301, and as a brand new tractor owner, this thing is amazing. It's like "grading for dummies" :)
In Ireland we call that a land leveller.
Another fun and informative video! Loved the bloopers!
I love mine. It is extremely effective, I recommend it!
Awesome video. I just purchase a scrapper to finish my rock driveway and doing my front yard that used to be a farm field.
Any advice on how deep to set the scraper blades depending on job? I just got a Land Pride Land Plane and want to take some potholes out of our well travelled dirt road.
Did you ever do the update video? Really trying to decide which would be better the box or the scraper. No experience with either before.
How long is that set-up from bucket tip to the back of the land plane
I have this same land plane, and I find my quick hitch won’t work with it but works with my other implements. The triangle supports get in the way. Are they supposed to be removed to be quick hitch compatable?
Looks like a disc could have made this piece work a lot better afterwards.
This is great content!
Came here from 10th Generation Dairyman site, just subbed.
Hi I was wondering if you could do a video about box blades how to use them grade, and maybe how to use one to move alot of dirt and maybe with a Hydraulic top link
The best implement that i've found for leveling would be a Land Pride Power Rake. I have a APS1572 and it has eliminated the need for a box blade, soil pulverizer, and tiller.
Yea, thats coming soon.
One important issue for those of us on limited budgets: I have been told that anything one can do with a grading scraper one can also do just as well with a box blade, but there are things that a box blade will do that just cannot be done with a scraper. Is that a true statement?
Yea, actually. I'd agree with that.
What would be the best implement ripping up dirt whit of rocks?
Just curious if you are floating the 3-point. My assumption, it is not in the float position? We plan on using our grader scraper with a M4D installing trail system.
There is no float on a 3pt. With very, very, few exceptions they have no down force.
@@MessicksEquip Can you explain page 87 of M4D manual
4. Float control
Place both the draft control lever and the position
control lever in the float position to make the lower links
move freely along with the ground conditions.
@@cobar2 For leveling the surface, you will normally use the float position. This helps prevent gouging the surface you are trying to level as the tractor tilts back and forth over irregularities.
An M4D is a whole different beast. Not only does if have position control standard (which is rare even as an option in sub-compact and compact tractors), but you will need a larger, more heavily built scraper - I would be looking at an 8' heavy duty. An M4D could probably rip the blades off of most 5' scrapers.
Looks pretty good. Looks like you still got some work to do though. Do you think it would have done better taking the bumps out with the scarifier blades in after you turned 90degrees to your first pass? I might have to consider getting one of these eventually. Thanks Neil
The trash in the field was the issue. The scarfiers ended up dragging all the debris along. I kept making a few more passes which continued to flatten it out.
I am looking for a video of spreading Loam?
Could a BX23S lift and pull that 60" grader (assuming moderate grading, not deep ground engagement)? Land Pride says it weighs 511lb. I know there's a GS0560 option at 350lb, but always buying the beefier version seems like a good practice, and especially good if someone later decides to upgrade to a more powerful tractor.
The bigger one would hold too much dirt for a BX.
I just bought a 60” land plane from EA attachments. I’m using a L2501 to pull it. Honestly I wish I had went with the 54” model. The land plane actually pulls harder than a full box blade. I was very surprised how hard it pulled. I’ve learned not to put the 3 point arm all the way down. After several passes, it will keep going deeper because the ground is broken up. I’m no expert, I just wanna help out the next guy. Good luck.
It seems the best way to smooth that field would've been to use a harrow.
Will this work to sort of scrape off rocks and dead branches from the soil?
No. Harley rake or preperator. Or a landscape rake.
I’ve found working in circles or figure 8 works best.
How did this workout? I have about an acre that I have cleared. I was thinking of getting something like this to smooth out the ground.
great. did exactly what i wanted.
Would a B2601 pull the GS1560 or would the GS1548 be better. Trying to get as much width as possible with the tractor we have.
0560 or 1548 imo
@@MessicksEquip ..thank you
Also pull logs on a angle,to lap over where u already been!!!!
Neil would the 1560 be too big for the 2601?
Yea
What size would you recommend for the lx2610
@@garrettboyer5292 60 or 72 would both be fine.
Would a GS1560 be too much for a B2601? There's the GS0560 but it seems like going for the heavier one would be better.
I just got a B2601 with the same grader and it works great, sometimes I do have to put it in low when it builds up.
just get an land leveller from Bos or AP, atleast those get the job done. without an grader.
You can never get an even cerface with al that green and stubble on top. First thing is plow and then level it
Gotta love whiny old hydrostat transmissions😂 for loader work and landscaping there a no brainer, but in the field I’d rather have a geared transmission.
TheWorksOutdoors !! True. I miss my shuttle. I went to HST on my new tractor because I have so much loader work to clean my property up where we moved a few years ago. I loved the gear drive when mowing my fields or doing anything in the pasture. But I can’t complain too much, I get tons of work done with the HST that would have destroyed the clutch on my last tractor :)
Matt Jenkins I hear the gear drive tractors have a lot more pulling power, is that true?
@@remb9614 I am almost certain that the geared transmissions are more efficient and put more power to the ground. I have always used geared tractors, but I do think if you were doing a lot of loader work, the ease of the HST would be hard to ignore.
Jake B I agree with Andrew. I had a NH WM 55 and now have a Kubota L6060HSTC. In low first the NH with the gears would pull until the wheels spun. I haven’t been able to stop the Kubota HST in low/low either, but it feels like I had more power before pulling uphill. The HST definitely takes away some power, but that’s why I went up slightly in HP to account for it. The HST is so much better around the house, edges of the field, around the barn, etc. My needs changed and the HST definitely does what I expected.
Matt Jenkins that’s kind of what I thought. I think for yard work, mowing, and loader work on just a few acres the hst is the way to go for me. I have a 30hp hst, but I often wonder how much pushing power I’m losing. I think I could deal with a shuttle shift if it meant I had substantially more power in the same tractor.
Do they make them sized for the bx series?
Yes. I have Gs1548 on my bx2380. Amazing for gravel driveway repair. I use it twice a year and my drive looks new all the time. Fills in holes and ruts, rips out weeds, and no additional gravel needed.
If you are going to advertise a piece of equipment you first need to learn how to use the product first. In showing this video you show that the front blade is higher than the rear grade. Having it set up this way is cutting your grading efficiency in half because your front blade is not doing any work. You need to have both blades level so that your front blade is cutting and holdings some material while your rear blade is acting more like a box blade to just carry material that has spilled over from the front blade so that when you get to those larger holes that the front blade doesn't have enough material to fill that the rear blade comes in as backup and can deposit more into that hill.
Your correct. I adjusted it later. That's one of the tough parts of making videos. We're always rushed, and too often we end up shooting before everything is really dialed in.
Drag 2 logs together, works faster,weighs more also,,,,Think out the box,simple !!!!
Tired of this guy talking and talking? Want to see the equipment and what it can actually do then 4:01
You're welcome.
Makes me very sad that you are turning a productive food producing field into a lawn.
Matthew Kirkconnell grass is cut for hay so it’s a crop that can either feed animals or be using in growing other products. What’s your deal?
I don't disagree with the sentiment at all. I hate seeing fields turned into developments. In this case, this is somewhere between a field and a swamp. It's not particularly productive.
I'd rather see it turned into forest, but that's just me =P