Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water/wastewater system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
This is THE immaculate way to teach someone like me - we may not be full-time beginners, but we appreciate to learn, part for part and step by step so very consequently thoroughly, without omitting 'details' obvious to the professionals. THANK YOU!!
I may be fixing a pool light and removing the wire may be a real pain. Could I splice the new head unit to the old wire safely? I figure nowadays there has to be many ways of splicing wires underwater and this may be one of theme
Good video, a few things first why didn't you slide the heat shrink on the motor side the wires were a lot longer and they would have been out of the way. also, should you splice the wires together before you screw the pump on the pipe going down in the well or after you screw the pump on? and last, what about testing the wire to make sure they are waterproof.
aloha hey so why dont you show the replacement of the old power cord to a new longer power cord without splicing...? I have two sump pumps (little giants brand) and the power cord is too short for deep pools. 8 ft and deeper. So I could splice off the end of the cord and add more wire w a splice and wrap it like you do here and then wrap in electrical tape, but cant I just order a longer cord up to 100 feet and connect it in the pump housing like they do at the factory? mahalo and aloha for your reply and time.
Hi. You are a teacher by nature.Thanks for your highly educational videos. I wonder if I can ask a question here. My Mayers sump pump,despite dischargeing water, used to trip fuse after a few seconds.When I pulled out the stator of this 1/2 HP 20 years old submersible, I found out that all insulation on the thermal sensor and its connections were dissolved in the dielectric oil, shorting it to the stator body and hence a short to the ground. The stator and rotor are in good shape otherwise. What do you recommend, can I just apply liquid tape on the sensor and put it back or cover it up with some heat shrink? Should this type of thermal protection sensors be in zero distance with the stator to work efficiently or they just sense the oil temperature? By the way I have replaced the pump and I am asking just for learning. My other question: could we use black heat shrink inside submersibles instead of these clear ones you use? I appreciate your comments in advance.
I wouldn't think the heat shrink matters if it is clear or black, the clear is nice because you can see what is happening, but in my non professional life, I use the black because it is easy to find. What will be important is not using normal heat shrink. You want the heat shrink with the glue inside. Harbor freight sells their marine grade heat shrink with this.
Why Franklin Electric /R. C. Worst Co. *do NOT prefer Self fusing silicone rubber?? "for water proofing of cable joint( of extended motor cable - of submersible pump set) ". Please reply.
@@cali0559 it was a half joke. But you could test put the splice in a bucket of water and test the water for stray voltage. Pro tip. Try not to touch the water
I am curious, you made the video but I did not see what your qualifications are to undertake this work. I would have thought that you would have identified the voltage and current rating of the pump and cables. Kind of important. Are your connections within code for your local electrical authority. Why did you fail to then put a full waterproof heat shrink over the total connection and have the connections staggered as suggested by another poster. Just curious as water and electricity just dont like each other and this needs to be done right and legally.
I prefer to crimp, then solder. I just don't trust crimp connectors. I use an electric heat gun if there's power, otherwise a propane torch set really, really low. Having said this, I know plenty of well pump installers who have done it Chris's way thousands of times, without any problems. I guess it's hard to argue with success.
You know the make large heat shrink tubing that could be used to seal / connect the outer black casing as well after the inner splices are completed. Not sure why so much of the pump side inner wires are exposed.
It's best to avoid turning over the torch (it should be upright) and the flame should be further from the wood to avoid a fire hazard. A heat gun is also much safer than a torch (no flame)
A heat gun is the proper way to heat shrink tubing. Not only is the torch a fire hazard but it is a burn hazard for you, the wire insulation, and the shrink tubing. If you burn through the insulation or shrink tubing you will have to cut the wires back and start again. A torch should only be used as a last resort.
Anyone watching thinking this is a done deal, theres another big black heat shrink that now goes over the lot. And.. stagger the connections, they could rub through and short each other like this. Thanks
Why can't you just solder the two wire ends together? Then installed the heat shrink over the solder joints. The shrink type that has the glue inside that run out when the heat shirk tape reach a certain temperature,
This is not a good way to make a submersible splice. First you should cut the wires staggered, never use flame on heatshrink tubing but use heatgun, always wrap minimum three layers of self bonding tape over the splice with 50% surmount and finally slide a piece of heatshrink tube with internal glue.
Yeah there's no way I would feel good doing this in someone's home. Water and electricity is a good way to kill someone and you cant ever over do safety in this area.
You should be more gentle with the stranded wire when your stripping it. When you wrench it back and forth like you did it cuts strands and jeopardizes your connections.
Aside from the deficiencies in technique the title needs to be fixed. This is not how to splice underwater this is "how to splice for underwater service" (Note came via how to weld underwater)
Thanks for watching! If you have ANY questions or concerns about your water/wastewater system you can leave a comment, call our experts at 855.329.4519 or you can live chat with them on our website: RCWorst.com
correct, if 14 wire had been used the distance, the pump would have been starved. ele is like water in a hose, the longer the hose the less pressure
Is there a reason that you don't solder those butt joints before you shrink tubed them?
This is THE immaculate way to teach someone like me - we may not be full-time beginners, but we appreciate to learn, part for part and step by step so very consequently thoroughly, without omitting 'details' obvious to the professionals. THANK YOU!!
I may be fixing a pool light and removing the wire may be a real pain. Could I splice the new head unit to the old wire safely? I figure nowadays there has to be many ways of splicing wires underwater and this may be one of theme
It's now a year later and I'm wondering if you spliced a new light into your pool. How did that fair out for you? Are you still with us?
Apparently not ⚰️@@davidmonahan4828
Good video, a few things first why didn't you slide the heat shrink on the motor side the wires were a lot longer and they would have been out of the way. also, should you splice the wires together before you screw the pump on the pipe going down in the well or after you screw the pump on? and last, what about testing the wire to make sure they are waterproof.
Great video. What's the model # of the crimper and the torch?
Thanks.
What's the black tape for?
aloha hey so why dont you show the replacement of the old power cord to a new longer power cord without splicing...? I have two sump pumps (little giants brand) and the power cord is too short for deep pools. 8 ft and deeper. So I could splice off the end of the cord and add more wire w a splice and wrap it like you do here and then wrap in electrical tape, but cant I just order a longer cord up to 100 feet and connect it in the pump housing like they do at the factory? mahalo and aloha for your reply and time.
Hi. You are a teacher by nature.Thanks for your highly educational videos.
I wonder if I can ask a question here. My Mayers sump pump,despite dischargeing water, used to trip fuse after a few seconds.When I pulled out the stator of this 1/2 HP 20 years old submersible, I found out that all insulation on the thermal sensor and its connections were dissolved in the dielectric oil, shorting it to the stator body and hence a short to the ground. The stator and rotor are in good shape otherwise. What do you recommend, can I just apply liquid tape on the sensor and put it back or cover it up with some heat shrink? Should this type of thermal protection sensors be in zero distance with the stator to work efficiently or they just sense the oil temperature? By the way I have replaced the pump and I am asking just for learning.
My other question: could we use black heat shrink inside submersibles instead of these clear ones you use? I appreciate your comments in advance.
I wouldn't think the heat shrink matters if it is clear or black, the clear is nice because you can see what is happening, but in my non professional life, I use the black because it is easy to find. What will be important is not using normal heat shrink. You want the heat shrink with the glue inside. Harbor freight sells their marine grade heat shrink with this.
Thank you very much sir, but I really want to know between these four wire, which one is the N which one is the L which is one is the G.
what is a life expectancy for the wiring itself on a deep well system? or what is the recommended replacement time frame?
Wire can last 30+ years, but it is important to inspect it as the pump is being pulled to determine if there is any damage.
Why do you use a flat cable in a submersible pump or a Borewell pump?
It is heavier duty and less likely to rub against the casing than twisted wire.
Why Franklin Electric /R. C. Worst Co. *do NOT prefer Self fusing silicone rubber?? "for water proofing of cable joint( of extended motor cable - of submersible pump set) ".
Please reply.
Be sure to test your splices in a bucket of water and Ohm meter to ensure they are waterproof.
How do you do that?
@@cali0559 it was a half joke. But you could test put the splice in a bucket of water and test the water for stray voltage. Pro tip. Try not to touch the water
I am curious, you made the video but I did not see what your qualifications are to undertake this work. I would have thought that you would have identified the voltage and current rating of the pump and cables. Kind of important. Are your connections within code for your local electrical authority. Why did you fail to then put a full waterproof heat shrink over the total connection and have the connections staggered as suggested by another poster. Just curious as water and electricity just dont like each other and this needs to be done right and legally.
I prefer to crimp, then solder. I just don't trust crimp connectors. I use an electric heat gun if there's power, otherwise a propane torch set really, really low.
Having said this, I know plenty of well pump installers who have done it Chris's way thousands of times, without any problems. I guess it's hard to argue with success.
Crimp and solder works great too! Thanks for watching
Great channel for professional info and how-to. An editor could shorten these vids by quite a bit
what kind of wire use for electrode sensor
You know the make large heat shrink tubing that could be used to seal / connect the outer black casing as well after the inner splices are completed. Not sure why so much of the pump side inner wires are exposed.
It's best to avoid turning over the torch (it should be upright) and the flame should be further from the wood to avoid a fire hazard. A heat gun is also much safer than a torch (no flame)
A heat gun is the proper way to heat shrink tubing. Not only is the torch a fire hazard but it is a burn hazard for you, the wire insulation, and the shrink tubing. If you burn through the insulation or shrink tubing you will have to cut the wires back and start again. A torch should only be used as a last resort.
I have the exact same torch and they are made to invert.
Hello, What size heat shrink did you use? Thanks.
Here is a link: www.rcworst.com/Four-Wire-Splice-Kit-Wire-Size-14-12-10-SP4C-p2055.html
Anyone watching thinking this is a done deal, theres another big black heat shrink that now goes over the lot. And.. stagger the connections, they could rub through and short each other like this. Thanks
A hear gun works much better than a torch in fact a torch can do damage to the tubing and conductors insulation if over heated
Why can't you just solder the two wire ends together? Then installed the heat shrink over the solder joints. The shrink type that has the glue inside that run out when the heat shirk tape reach a certain temperature,
Think field repair, crimp it, heat it, drop it
Always stagger and solder
good work
Thanks!
What happens if water gets in and makes contact with the wires?
That's called a short to ground, your pump will not run and the breaker will (hopefully) trip.
Or fuse will blow.
I'd never use a torch on shrink tubing. Heat guns are relatively inexpensive and do a much better/safer shrink.
Most pump guys are dropping a pump in field and in the case of older locals no maintenance receptacle. Things may be different where you are though.
Why are there 4 wires? I thought it was positive, neutral and ground?
There’s a switch lead
This is not a good way to make a submersible splice. First you should cut the wires staggered, never use flame on heatshrink tubing but use heatgun, always wrap minimum three layers of self bonding tape over the splice with 50% surmount and finally slide a piece of heatshrink tube with internal glue.
Thank you.
I agree 100% Another pseudo ... whatever.
Yeah there's no way I would feel good doing this in someone's home. Water and electricity is a good way to kill someone and you cant ever over do safety in this area.
Antonio please make a video.
What is 50% surmount? And you slide the heat shrink over the tape?
The wires should not be cut equally, but a method of degrading (3-6-9-12) cm of this scientific method
Oh man shove the heat shrink on the long wires, so painful to watch, but thank you for sharing, Oh there ya right before heating....
Thank you
You should be more gentle with the stranded wire when your stripping it. When you wrench it back and forth like you did it cuts strands and jeopardizes your connections.
Aside from the deficiencies in technique the title needs to be fixed. This is not how to splice underwater this is "how to splice for underwater service" (Note came via how to weld underwater)
Appreciate the feedback!
A bit of a sloppy job
this not good very dangerous, you coneccting wire you must bertahap jangan sejajar
cut the cable should be gradual do not align
This is not proper work
Tanks
Welcome
It's gauge! NOT SIZE!
Gauge is a unit of measurement