Black Sennheiser HD800 Part 2 - paintwork

In this video we take a look at the process involved in painting parts from the sennheiser HD800 and re-assemble them
If you'd like to check out our shop, use the link below:
customcans.co....

[@marcswinnen9100]

Ah the master at work😎

[@CustomCans]

;)

[@mat.b.]

awesome! glad i found this, wasnt on youtube when i started planning but also doing a gloss black paintjob on my HD800 in a couple days, excited now

[@CustomCans]

Glad it was helpful

[@mat.b.]

@@CustomCans one thing i noticed, you just rough it up with 800 grit, but DMS' walkthrough says use 80 and strip ALL original paint first. Clearly, you did it the other way but....ignore him? Just do a light sand and every nook and cranny doesnt need to be stripped bare?

[@CustomCans]

I think it will depend a bit on the paint you use - After we sand it we give them a coat of adhesion promoter that helps the paint stick we also use an automotive paint process with a water based colour and the urethane clear coat on top. I think 400grit should be enough for most paint. If you went for something like 80grit, the paint would stick well but you would need to prime and then sand smooth with finer sand paper to get a smooth finish... so a bit more work involved. There is no real right or wrong way, the technique would vary a bit depending on the paint you use. As I mentioned above, I would go with 400grit as a good compromise and if you have the time, run a test on something else made from nylon ( PA6 ), find something you don't mind possibly ruining made from PA6 and try painting a smalll area of it. Sand, adhesion promoter and build up which ever paint you plan on using. Then let it dry. Then try sticking some strong tape the it and pulling it off or something to see if the paint has stuck to the plastic properly.

[@iggynub]

What type of paint was used? i love how flat yet shinny the colour is.

[@CustomCans]

We use an automotive paint process so not the kind of thing that is practical for most people. For this we used autobourne black sealer, wicked colours black base coat and lechler megalack clear coat. To get that kind of finish you need to use a base colour and a clear lacquer over the top.

[@ChaseHub]

noice!

[@CustomCans]

Yeh it is ;)

[@FeyaElena]

Wow, how much work! Dust has no chance! Maybe it's worth painting in the bathroom with the shower turned on, so that the water dust binds all the dust particles? Thank you for the video!

[@CustomCans]

Normally we put the parts in heated cabinet to dry but the headband would not fit properly without touching anything. The clearcoat we use takes around 8hrs to dry so it is a bit tricky to deal with

[@skyeait5939]

looks sick! Funny how a colour change brings the aesthetics up to date since they looked proper retro before. Showing the process of polishing out the mishap in painting was very informative. The project makes me want to buy all the equipment used and the headphones just for the mod.
Also your customized alcohol bottle shows you just look at everything and think "IT MUST BE CUSTOMIZED!" lol im the same. Im betting you didn't buy it like that...

[@CustomCans]

LOL.. The bottle with the alcohol has just been in the spray booth for a long time and got covered in overspray ;)

[@mat.b.]

Question about fixing errors like you did on the headband - if it happened on one of the ear pierces, would you recommend sanding and buffing the entire piece, or just the section containing clear coat issue?

[@CustomCans]

if the rest of it is good, you could just do the bit with the error -

[@mat.b.]

@@CustomCans thanks dude

[@soulfulfool]

they look way better, sadly cant change the color of that beige golden material around the drivers, it should be silver/gunmetal color

[@CustomCans]

Yes, unfortunately messing with some parts will throw out the tuning on them