1: painters need to stop hating 2: as a tradesman (28yr electrician): tradesman DIY more than most. These videos are game changers 3: who’s talking about your hair w/ a beard like that. 4: my wife thanks you (she has done the brunt of the chalking); I’m so geeked up to caulk she’s laughing about my man crush 5: thanks for taking your time to create content, that saves your viewers hours of time & frustration. I even ordered a drip less caulk gun. Keep rocking out with your caulk out.
Here here. I appreciate these kind of videos as well. I've never caulked anything before and I'm about to go on a caulking and wood filling spree around my apartment.
Finally, someone who has got it right. Caulk has its use but it is not to fill holes, especially on trim. The builders used caulk on all the trim in my house and now a few years on down the road you can see all of the yellowing caulk, the poorly applied caulk in the miters, the blobs of the stuff all over, the nail holes and it is just about impossible to get off. I pretty much have to remove everything, try to sand down or clean out somehow, put it back together and then correctly fill. Caulk and duct tape, everybody's quick fix that has to be fixed again on down the road. Do it right the first time.
Been painting professionally for 25 years, I use painters putty(glazing), for nail holes, miters and any outside corners. It’s the way I was taught, by a second generation (old school) painter. Never have issues with it, as long as it’s done properly. This is the first thing I put new hires on, to see if they really know anything about painting. Great videos, very informative
These last few caulking videos have provided a ton of awesome sounds bites about cracks and holes and cramming... I appreciate the chuckles acknowledging them along the way.
I really enjoy watching your videos. I’m currently painting a client’s home that was destroyed in Hurricane Isaac . I have to caulk all of the trim (which I’ve never done)…so I turned to this video to gain some enlightenment…I’m feeling much more confident now than I was lol. Fingers🤞🏼 So thanks!
I feel validated in my choice! I chose a natural wood filler, just so I’d be sure to not miss any spots when coming back to sand (my 50 year old eyes need all the help I can give ‘em!). I’m finishing up some baseboards and a bit of molding today. 😁
I enjoy your videos. I have been working as a trim carpenter for decades and I have always used window glazing putty. It does a great job filling the holes, doesn’t shrink, and no sanding required. 😊
Setting compound like Durabond 90 or Sheetrock works best for nail holes and other imperfections. Doesn't shrink, cures quickly, and is easy to sand with a sanding sponge. Why the sandpaper for flat trim? Sanding sponge, end of story. (You can use regular drywall compound but it shrinks and two applications with drying in between is often necessary.) Cheers.
Barbie the Builder from UK joining you again Funny Guy. Here I've used Polyfilla Woodflex (thats the Brit equivalent), and it's filled the holes a treat. Great advice. So glad I didn't caulk 😊
Just did this the way you've shown and perfection! Had wondered about the miters as this seems like the best product for those. Had thought you could only use caulk on them. Thanks for this video!
Excellent timing - I have a huge number of holes like this to fill and excellent can get elmers in the UK. With the number of innuendos coming out I think some form of innuendo bingo for 2024 will be needed!
Yes you are great. New follower from Sweden. 🇸🇪 the limited product range here is sad. Just finished renovation of our apartment, many tricks and tips gathered from your videos. Thanks. Regards Niclas
I did a whole bedroom of trim and baseboards with caulk and learned this lesson the hard way. I definitely bought wood filler for the rest of my house after the nightmare of 2-3 rounds of filling nail holes. What do you do for nails that did sink all the way? They're not out enough to pull them out, but I haven't had much success trying to get them counter sunk.
Cant count how many times I've seen painters use caulking. Awful. I like to use the drydex tube similar to the filler tube you have. I cut the tip on an angle with a ~5/32 opening, press it firmly onto the nail hole, squeeze until it splooges out a bit, and onto the next. The excess is necessary for when the wood casing absorbs the moisture of the filler and pulls some in. Do all your holes and you can go back to the first and start sanding. One coat and a quick sand with 220 and the holes are invisible. I find this to be the quickest without sacrificing a perfect finish, with the added benefit of completely eliminating a putty knife and any need to use your fingers.
What about inside miter corners? Would you still use wood filler to close up a gap? Does the wood filler have give? Working on a corner windows where the header connects as one piece but there’s a very small gap. My thought process was to caulk at the mitered seam but wood filler for nail holes. Thanks a ton. Your videos are super helpful
Here in Norway nobody cares about nailholes or any of that stuff. Proffesionals hate it when they start working here. Got a custimer from England & it is driving him insane😂 But when im fixin at home i always try to make it smooth like that, so thx for the tips. ❤❤❤
My strategy is different but I like the spirit of what you do. I use a 23g pin nailer so the holes are almost invisible and then just run a wax-based wood repair kind of crayon. I then don't have to paint anything at all once it's in place. Also no waiting for anything to dry. Also my pin nailer is cordless so no compressor to install, no hose. You can't see any holes anywhere with that.
Were the trims pre-primed or if you have bare wood is it best to pre-prime before filling the pin holes? Most of the door trims in my old house are damaged and scraped really badly by the previous owner who used a very wide walking frame. I suppose its false economy to fill all the scrapes and dents with wood filler, sand and re-paint them rather than replace? Or is bondo better for that sort of job. The finger jointed trim isn't that cheap where I am. Also some doors are set close to one wall as the hallway is narrow and so the trims were cut down to accomodate this. It looks odd having one side half the width of the other. Is it better to make all trim sides the same width? However skinny trim around the whole door might look a little odd too?
Pro tip- mix some lightweight and the orange Elmer’s. That way you can adjust how hard it is to sand. The orange color will help you see what you have to sand. Straight Elmer’s is a bit too hard. You’ll sand right through the pre primed trim.
Glue together the mitered pieces when installing so the bond is stronger between the pieces. Can still crack over time, but will hold up better. CA-glue on one piece and activator sprayed on the other piece or just woodglue.
I never do miters. I trim with a craftsman style trim with butt joints. I can count on one hand the number of miter joints I've seen that are not either gapped or smeared with caulk, spackle or wood filler in an attempt to close the gap.
I’m redoing an old house with old wood and new wood. The wood I used for trim 1x4’s from HD is awful & crooked. 50% doesn’t line up! I have to work with what I have now. You are right, the caulk doesn’t hide these areas. It works take a lot of filler to try and make them look even. I just don’t know what to do. House is on piers. Constantly shifting. I thought the wood filler would crack. The caulk looks awful even though I treated it like clay to shape it! lol! Any advice?
Find a real lumber yard. You're likely to get better material for less money. Finger jointed material is straight and not terribly expensive, if you're going to paint it.
I made a list of supplies from your videos and the white Elmers Wood Filler I received is "ProBond 5x Stronger"....Honestly I want to follow your instructions exactly so I am probably going to use the natural BUT do you think there is a difference between the ProBond and what I meant to order? Thanks again for your videos and your guidance.
I used wood filler once but the issue i had was after several weeks the filler would crack from the contraction and expansion of the house. Any tips for that?
I wouldn't. It's oily, might cause adhesion problems, and would be a mess to sand flat because it doesn't dry. If you got it flat so it didn't need sanding, then it would probably work.
Is there an issues with this Elmers coming through if it's not the white when using white paint? I have the natural color and am painting all the trim with Benjamin Moore's satin Advance. Can't imagine anything showing through this stuff but I'd hate to wait the 20 years for it to dry to find out. 🤓
FYI, They recently booted Elmers wood filler from my local Home depots. It is my favorite also, now we have DAP and i refuse to buy it cause Elmers worked great and DAP is twice the cost, i’ll go somewhere else.
Ok. I got the Elmer's wood filler. It is FREAKING annoying to get out of the tube. It also sticks more to my finger than to the trim. Super annoying. I have to jam a blob in there and not rub it.
I saw you had a can of the MB ready patch. I’ve been using that for about the last year or two with good results. But I’m also the guy installing the trim and either at the end of a day or right after I install a piece I’m there hitting it with that stuff to maximize dry time.
Why do we bother mitreing the corners anymore if we're going to glue them together and fill the seam with wood filler then cover with paint. Especially for flat trim like this.
The absolute worst is using white caulk and do not paint over it again!!! The caulk attracts dirt and leaves very obvious huge dark smudges where the caulk is. Yuck! It was so bad at our condo complex that I repainted it and just didn’t tell anyone.
Alex Plus caulk should be banned. The stuff doesn't work well for any purpose. I use water putty for my holes now. You can mix it to whatever consistency you want.
Great stuff that water putty. I use it also all the time on projects that I paint. Works great in nicks and dings s well as nail holes. Easy to apply, dries fast, doesn’t shrink and sands easy.
Painters use light weight spackling for nail holes, not wood filler, not ready patch and no painter uses a roller on door casement. What the hell are you telling people?
Best wishes for 2024! You by far are the funniest carpenter but should move away from painting... Filling nail holes is done by painters with their tricks of the trade. Depending on the nail size with lightweight specle are lacker-filler. Dries quickly and easy to sand. Greetings from the land of the wooden shoes.
1: painters need to stop hating
2: as a tradesman (28yr electrician): tradesman DIY more than most. These videos are game changers
3: who’s talking about your hair w/ a beard like that.
4: my wife thanks you (she has done the brunt of the chalking); I’m so geeked up to caulk she’s laughing about my man crush
5: thanks for taking your time to create content, that saves your viewers hours of time & frustration. I even ordered a drip less caulk gun.
Keep rocking out with your caulk out.
Thanks buddy and best wishes with the new gun
Caulk jokes never get old 👍
Here here. I appreciate these kind of videos as well. I've never caulked anything before and I'm about to go on a caulking and wood filling spree around my apartment.
Finally, someone who has got it right. Caulk has its use but it is not to fill holes, especially on trim. The builders used caulk on all the trim in my house and now a few years on down the road you can see all of the yellowing caulk, the poorly applied caulk in the miters, the blobs of the stuff all over, the nail holes and it is just about impossible to get off. I pretty much have to remove everything, try to sand down or clean out somehow, put it back together and then correctly fill. Caulk and duct tape, everybody's quick fix that has to be fixed again on down the road. Do it right the first time.
What if you paint it over?
I also like how you started laughing as you said “Take your finger and just rub it into the crack!” 😂😂
Been painting professionally for 25 years, I use painters putty(glazing), for nail holes, miters and any outside corners.
It’s the way I was taught, by a second generation (old school) painter.
Never have issues with it, as long as it’s done properly.
This is the first thing I put new hires on, to see if they really know anything about painting.
Great videos, very informative
“Right into the ocean!” 😂😂😂 (the sarcasm got me to actually laugh out loud here)
I'm putting this in the win column!
same
These last few caulking videos have provided a ton of awesome sounds bites about cracks and holes and cramming... I appreciate the chuckles acknowledging them along the way.
Great advice. Lots of knowledge dropped here.
I really enjoy watching your videos. I’m currently painting a client’s home that was destroyed in Hurricane Isaac . I have to caulk all of the trim (which I’ve never done)…so I turned to this video to gain some enlightenment…I’m feeling much more confident now than I was lol. Fingers🤞🏼 So thanks!
I feel validated in my choice! I chose a natural wood filler, just so I’d be sure to not miss any spots when coming back to sand (my 50 year old eyes need all the help I can give ‘em!). I’m finishing up some baseboards and a bit of molding today. 😁
Excellent point!
Excellent demo and so easy to follow. Gracias!
I enjoy your videos. I have been working as a trim carpenter for decades and I have always used window glazing putty. It does a great job filling the holes, doesn’t shrink, and no sanding required. 😊
Setting compound like Durabond 90 or Sheetrock works best for nail holes and other imperfections. Doesn't shrink, cures quickly, and is easy to sand with a sanding sponge. Why the sandpaper for flat trim? Sanding sponge, end of story. (You can use regular drywall compound but it shrinks and two applications with drying in between is often necessary.) Cheers.
Barbie the Builder from UK joining you again Funny Guy. Here I've used Polyfilla Woodflex (thats the Brit equivalent), and it's filled the holes a treat. Great advice. So glad I didn't caulk 😊
Just did this the way you've shown and perfection! Had wondered about the miters as this seems like the best product for those. Had thought you could only use caulk on them. Thanks for this video!
Excellent timing - I have a huge number of holes like this to fill and excellent can get elmers in the UK. With the number of innuendos coming out I think some form of innuendo bingo for 2024 will be needed!
"drop kick it straight into the ocean..." video showing it landing in recycle bin. I laughed out loud!
Yes you are great. New follower from Sweden. 🇸🇪 the limited product range here is sad. Just finished renovation of our apartment, many tricks and tips gathered from your videos. Thanks. Regards Niclas
Why is that limited product
The supply range is very limited. As soon as you need to by something from US there are quite high fees and customs fees that applies
I use bondo glazing putty. Easy to apply, easy to sand and it works great.
Another great video. I get so much knowledge from your videos, I feel like I owe you money or something. Thanks!
I did a whole bedroom of trim and baseboards with caulk and learned this lesson the hard way. I definitely bought wood filler for the rest of my house after the nightmare of 2-3 rounds of filling nail holes. What do you do for nails that did sink all the way? They're not out enough to pull them out, but I haven't had much success trying to get them counter sunk.
You need to buy a nail set, then you drive them before the surface and fill
Cant count how many times I've seen painters use caulking. Awful. I like to use the drydex tube similar to the filler tube you have. I cut the tip on an angle with a ~5/32 opening, press it firmly onto the nail hole, squeeze until it splooges out a bit, and onto the next. The excess is necessary for when the wood casing absorbs the moisture of the filler and pulls some in. Do all your holes and you can go back to the first and start sanding. One coat and a quick sand with 220 and the holes are invisible. I find this to be the quickest without sacrificing a perfect finish, with the added benefit of completely eliminating a putty knife and any need to use your fingers.
Massive tips thanks, your eye goes right for that stuff will use this for sure!
Thank you. I learned about wood fillers at an early age and would never use caulk to fill holes in wood. But what about drywall cracks?
excellent content. I love the links to the other videos at the end. Perfect Rabbit hole YT DIY Binge material.
I’ve used window glaze by Dap. It’s pretty good and comes in white
Absolutely perfect!! 😂😂 Don't be nervous
Very funny!! Yes I also learned some primo techs!
What about inside miter corners? Would you still use wood filler to close up a gap? Does the wood filler have give? Working on a corner windows where the header connects as one piece but there’s a very small gap. My thought process was to caulk at the mitered seam but wood filler for nail holes. Thanks a ton. Your videos are super helpful
Here in Norway nobody cares about nailholes or any of that stuff. Proffesionals hate it when they start working here.
Got a custimer from England & it is driving him insane😂
But when im fixin at home i always try to make it smooth like that, so thx for the tips.
❤❤❤
Love this explanation!
My strategy is different but I like the spirit of what you do. I use a 23g pin nailer so the holes are almost invisible and then just run a wax-based wood repair kind of crayon. I then don't have to paint anything at all once it's in place. Also no waiting for anything to dry. Also my pin nailer is cordless so no compressor to install, no hose. You can't see any holes anywhere with that.
Do not do this. Nails serve a purpose
@@JDB61698 23 g finish nails are nails
Hey. Can you provide a name or model number for that cryon? Many thanks!
Were the trims pre-primed or if you have bare wood is it best to pre-prime before filling the pin holes? Most of the door trims in my old house are damaged and scraped really badly by the previous owner who used a very wide walking frame. I suppose its false economy to fill all the scrapes and dents with wood filler, sand and re-paint them rather than replace? Or is bondo better for that sort of job. The finger jointed trim isn't that cheap where I am. Also some doors are set close to one wall as the hallway is narrow and so the trims were cut down to accomodate this. It looks odd having one side half the width of the other. Is it better to make all trim sides the same width? However skinny trim around the whole door might look a little odd too?
Hi, nice kick, what should be used for inside corners of crown molding that has cracked? Stretchy caulk, or wood filler?
Inside corners stretchy caulk is best. I'm working on that video this week!
Use Big Stretch
That's great, thanks!@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Fantastic videos!
Any suggestions on fixing existing caulk divots left by the sub-contractor?
I would sand them down a bit and then use wood filler over top
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Awesome, thanks!
what would you suggest for PVC baseboard nail holes........?
Pro tip- mix some lightweight and the orange Elmer’s. That way you can adjust how hard it is to sand. The orange color will help you see what you have to sand. Straight Elmer’s is a bit too hard. You’ll sand right through the pre primed trim.
I usually just use the fillers nozzle as my application method give it a small squeeze and it leaves a small bump to sand down
🇦🇺 Happy new year. All the best for 2024 to you and your loved ones.
I couldn't agree more on the nail holes, but I've had the miters eventually crack when using filler vs. caulk. Thoughts?
Glue together the mitered pieces when installing so the bond is stronger between the pieces. Can still crack over time, but will hold up better. CA-glue on one piece and activator sprayed on the other piece or just woodglue.
I never do miters. I trim with a craftsman style trim with butt joints. I can count on one hand the number of miter joints I've seen that are not either gapped or smeared with caulk, spackle or wood filler in an attempt to close the gap.
@@billvojtech5686 good luck butt jointing a piece of Taurus or ogee architrave
@@sineave6419 Notice I said I always do craftsman style trim.
Flat trim + two panel (hollow?) doors looks good! Thanks for not going with black hardware.
I use Durham's wood putty/filler. Been working great for years.
I love that stuff! I’ve been using now for about 50 years and it’s never let me down.
Way too hard
I’m redoing an old house with old wood and new wood. The wood I used for trim 1x4’s from HD is awful & crooked. 50% doesn’t line up! I have to work with what I have now. You are right, the caulk doesn’t hide these areas. It works take a lot of filler to try and make them look even. I just don’t know what to do. House is on piers. Constantly shifting. I thought the wood filler would crack. The caulk looks awful even though I treated it like clay to shape it! lol! Any advice?
I'd use wood filler for nail holes, mitre seems, outside corners. I'd use caulking, Dynaflex 230 for seems and inside corners.
th-cam.com/video/TxrM50j3X4s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LIS9ZBPjueISQ2mI
Find a real lumber yard. You're likely to get better material for less money. Finger jointed material is straight and not terribly expensive, if you're going to paint it.
I made a list of supplies from your videos and the white Elmers Wood Filler I received is "ProBond 5x Stronger"....Honestly I want to follow your instructions exactly so I am probably going to use the natural BUT do you think there is a difference between the ProBond and what I meant to order? Thanks again for your videos and your guidance.
I thought in a previous video you said that Dyna Patch Pro was the way to go for nail holes?
Excited to make drop kicking caulk into the ocean a part of the job :)
I used wood filler once but the issue i had was after several weeks the filler would crack from the contraction and expansion of the house. Any tips for that?
Caulk
Expansion and contraction is not the problem with nail holes. Use filler only in holes, use caulk for gaps between trim pieces.
Thanks!
Yes, wood filler for nail holes, as you taught me before. Will add the drop kick of empty caulk tubes for effect. 😂
Holy god! That orange peel on the trim
You're the bomb man.
Would love to see you team up with Vancouver Carpenter…
What do you use on the PVC trim
Can I use window glazing, like Dap 33?
I wouldn't. It's oily, might cause adhesion problems, and would be a mess to sand flat because it doesn't dry. If you got it flat so it didn't need sanding, then it would probably work.
I always use Plaster of Paris. Doesn't shrink and as hard as the wood.
Good suggestion
Too hard
The links to the videos 'over here' don't show on my mobile
How about stained moldings?
👍👍👍.THANK YOU
Is there an issues with this Elmers coming through if it's not the white when using white paint? I have the natural color and am painting all the trim with Benjamin Moore's satin Advance.
Can't imagine anything showing through this stuff but I'd hate to wait the 20 years for it to dry to find out. 🤓
You’re gonna have a much bigger issue. That advance will yellow a lot and just a few years.
@@JDB61698 What do you mean?
@@JDB61698 I've been using Advance for about five years now and never experienced any yellowing.
Lol!!! I was just about to say great hack caulk kick. Then you show the out takes😂😂. So you just tossed it in. 😢
Ahhhh the magic of Hollywood 😂
Would you still use the wood filler on PVC trim?
Wood filler for wood, PVC filler for PVC :).
That miter seam looked fine..
FYI, They recently booted Elmers wood filler from my local Home depots. It is my favorite also, now we have DAP and i refuse to buy it cause Elmers worked great and DAP is twice the cost, i’ll go somewhere else.
I gotta admire your caulk kicking abilities, lol.
Thank you.
that drop kick... LOL
I use drydex.
Ok. I got the Elmer's wood filler. It is FREAKING annoying to get out of the tube. It also sticks more to my finger than to the trim. Super annoying. I have to jam a blob in there and not rub it.
Nice kick.
Thanks!
Use Bondo. Dries quickly, dries hard, easy to sand and is super tough.
Incorrect
I saw you had a can of the MB ready patch. I’ve been using that for about the last year or two with good results. But I’m also the guy installing the trim and either at the end of a day or right after I install a piece I’m there hitting it with that stuff to maximize dry time.
110% agree!
How do I hire this guy!!
He lives in Canada, but maybe "Have [caulking] gun. Will travel."
Fil stick putty?
Ty sir
You need some floetrol in that paint its looking like moon craters as well my man.
Why do we bother mitreing the corners anymore if we're going to glue them together and fill the seam with wood filler then cover with paint. Especially for flat trim like this.
The absolute worst is using white caulk and do not paint over it again!!! The caulk attracts dirt and leaves very obvious huge dark smudges where the caulk is. Yuck! It was so bad at our condo complex that I repainted it and just didn’t tell anyone.
If Trudope saw what you did with that caulking he'd have a fit
straight into the ocean :D
Use an oil based putty. Simples😂.
Dang... I've been using toothpaste for that minty freshness
Nothing wrong with toothpaste
Disclaimer: Please do not toe punt corking into the bloody ocean
😎⚒️😎⚒️😎
Cheers Ted🍻
Chalk isn't ment to fill holes ( that's wat filler is for)
🙂
Alex Plus caulk should be banned. The stuff doesn't work well for any purpose.
I use water putty for my holes now. You can mix it to whatever consistency you want.
Great stuff that water putty. I use it also all the time on projects that I paint. Works great in nicks and dings s well as nail holes. Easy to apply, dries fast, doesn’t shrink and sands easy.
If you are in a hurry bondo is the way to go
Never sand like that. Use a block at least.
You grip about the way the holes are filled then you pant it with a roller
Ya garbage caulk on mitre and Nail holes. Quick and hacky
no way it was just two attempts with that trash :)
Painters use light weight spackling for nail holes, not wood filler, not ready patch and no painter uses a roller on door casement. What the hell are you telling people?
Paint rollers work great on flat casings. I do I all the time.
@@Sillyturner I'm sure you do lots of things all time.
@@richardmckrell4899 🤣
I like this guy, but this is why carpenters shouldn’t paint. And don’t let them caulk anything that will be seen
You MUST be the Funniest Painter! 😂
To bad I agree, carpenters should stick to just that. Carpentry.
And let the painters hide their shames.
Agreed
Doesnt taking your finger and rubbing it in to the crack just make it more wet? 💦
Lose the squeeze tube. Learn too use a putty knife with a 6 inch drywall knife
That part my boss is always complaining😅 why so many holes are see ahaha😂
Best wishes for 2024!
You by far are the funniest carpenter but should move away from painting...
Filling nail holes is done by painters with their tricks of the trade.
Depending on the nail size with lightweight specle are lacker-filler.
Dries quickly and easy to sand.
Greetings from the land of the wooden shoes.
English teachers?
Whatever you do, never hire a capenter to do your fine finishing work 🔨
It’s not going to read all the comments to see if anyone else commented on this but, the thumbnail picture says “capenter’s worst enemy”.