Twenty years ago, this sort of how to video would have been on the BBC and it would have been seen by millions. This has the vibe of a BBC show, high quality, high production values, well written and demonstrated. It's a crime that this channel isn't way more popular. Thank you for showing us this.
Yep. Even abroad, you could usually get BBC Prime, which was full of DIY shows, great documentaries about science, company management, etc., and people in every country used to love it and say how much better it was than their shallow local channels. Then at some point it just became the EastEnders channel, they eventually changed the name to "BBC Entertainment", and IMO don't even provide _that._ The Discovery Channel kind of took up the "maker channel" mantle for a while (with MythBusters, Dirty Jobs, etc.) but now it's mostly shows about fake shops pretending to sell things, con men pretending to chase ghosts, and people pretending to survive in the wild while surrounded by a massive TV production crew.
@@zeno2712what a favour he did to future house owners by covering all those ‘old fashioned’ doors with hardboard ! And what about that pump screwdriver !!😊
@@zeno2712My late father was a joiner. He cursed Barry Bucknell because ordinary folk would watch the show and see (for example) a new stud wall being created and plasterboarded and plastered and painted within the time limit of the show. So the punters would then be generous to my dad and give him twice the time to do the same work! :-) Wasn't there a so-called scandal where some tabloid newspaper got pictures of the multitude of workers that did the actual graft and Mr Bucknell was depicted as doing all the work himself?
As an owner of a new home - this channel has been a gem and has saved me thousands. I've done my own curtains, built storage, did my garden lights, outdoor switches - thankyou proper DIY, what an awesome channel.
Carried out this exact process about a month ago on a ceiling crack from side to side of one room. The only thing I would add is that I used some SPR ( or PVA) before re-taping and plastering just to ensure I gave it the best chance to adhere properly. Brilliant video Stuart.
It’s interesting to watch how different people fix things like I know how to fix cracks but I always like to watch people you never know you may pick up a point or two Great job on this video
I’m in the USA and had a couple cracks that kept returning. 1 at a long horizontal joint of drywall in tall wall room and 2nd one diagonal from top of back door entrance frame. Tried the mesh a couple times and didn’t work for more than a year. Finally ended up cutting very large parts of the the drywall out a full stud away from the cracks. reinstalled stronger backed bathroom shower drywall and the cracks never returned (Thankfully…. haha)! Hope your family has a great 2025 !
Here in Australia it is very common to not have the existing skim coat over the plasterboard. We scrape out the cracks, fill the scraped section with the same filler as you use. With smaller cracks like your demonstration we add tape over the plasterboard cracked area overlapping onto the face of the plasterboard but don’t put tape on tape as on the corners in your video. That would be too thick to conceal with filler. We then put filler over the tape, embedding it in a very thin layer. Next, after drying and a quick sand we add a wider skim coat over the first area at least once. Extra coats are skimmed on if necessary (and they usually are) getting wider and wider each time with sanding in between coats. Tedious but it works well because the repair tapers onto the previously cracked area very gradually. Often the tape is perforated paper or sometimes that mesh type, depending on the situation. Pretty much like the US system. I prefer the UK system but it is more expensive in the first place. $$$$$$ rule here 😬
Where you had that missing corner prior to filling I would have painted on a diluted PVA and let it soak in as it would bond the crumbly edge and make it strong again. Also on the other side I would recommend prefilling those large cracks
I've just repaired a large crack running down the wall behind an elevator. The final repair was 10cm wide x 2300cm. The _amount of dust_ from hand sanding was unbelievable ! Thankfully it was in a hallway with no furniture in it. Lesson leart : get an electric hand sander that you can attach the vacuum cleaner to as you have in your video. All the best and greetings from Prague, CZ
@@okupantgb You are correct, and the instructions for my new vacuum cleaner state that it's not for building work, just normal household dust. So I swept it up x 4 ( after dusting the walls ). Then mopped the floor. The next morning, it took another 2 sweeps and mopping. And then I vacuumed the floor and washed the soles of my shoes. Finally, it appears I got all of it.
I've had ready mixed fillers of that sort shrink over the course of a month of so after filling that deep. Hopefully this holds up well for you but perhaps a hairline crack will open back up around that missing corner. It's a good reason to keep a few scraps of plasterboard tucked away for patching.
Stuart - I have a similar issue in my bathroom ceiling where after a few months it will begin to crack. The house is a late 70's build and the bathroom was renovated 4 years ago and made bigger to accommodate a walk in shower. Part of the ceiling is original plasterboard, and some is new, and the crack appears between them. My wife and I must have redone it 4 or 5 times now, and after seeing this vid I am less inclined to believe its the humidity from the steam in the room causing it. Thank you for sharing your expertise, and giving me the confidence to have a go at these things myself!
This exact problem is why it's best practise to keep the joints in the boards from being too close to the corners of doors and windows. I was taught at least 12"
Thanks Stuart, I have one very similar above one of my doors on my to do list so very helpful ! Will be sharing the video with my adult children too, as they're just starting their DIY journeys !
After a major kitchen/dining room remodel, we’re getting quite a few cracks along seams in the original ceiling sheets, which we know weren’t installed well originally. In the US, but the same principle should apply: drive more sheetrock screws into the joists and fill the divots. Does seem plaster would provide more “wiggle room”, though. Longer repair times and opportunity for wavy walls, though, it seems.
Back when I started out on my DIY journey, I fluked a solution to this kind of problem (which was admittedly a reoccurring crack in a corner between plasterboard and door architrave). I stuffed a vertical "thread" of some mesh tape (about 1-2mm) into the crack, then plastered over it, and sanded flat. Did this process until the crack stopped occurring. Then added paintable silicone over the area, and repainted wall and architrave. 6 years and no crack. Perhaps a bodge but looks sublime. Sick of settlement cracks tbh.
I live in the UK in a relatively new build (13 years old) and there's not plaster over the plasterboard! Builder is David Wilson Homes (now part of Barratt)
He must be thinking of small developers. When I was involved with the likes of Barratt, David Wilson, Bovis etc. They all used the plasterboard surface as the final surface before paint. Btw, I think David Wilson is part of the Barratt group, or it was before I retired.
I had massive issues with my ceilings throughout the house. To be honest, I think my plasterer generally didn't do a good job, but I also fixed it with paper tape rather than mesh. Another channel, Vancouver Carpenter, explained the downside of mesh, which motivated me to try papertape. The room done with paper has now been crack-free for 2 years, while all the mesh once have cracks. While fixing the house, I will only use paper tape going forward.
Good advice as usual. Regarding the filler (not sure what he used), I've had good results with Toupret, and Gyproc 60. Both powder types. Also, I'd recommend never buying a new build property!
I’ve heard you mention that UK plasterboard walls differ from American houses a few times now. We have a 15-20 year old house in the UK and the walls are just plasterboard, no thin layer of plaster skim over the top. And we have a few persistent straight line cracks.
The majority of new build houses built in the last 30+ years have plasterboard with no plaster skim coat. Taper edged plasterboard is used that is then filled with a top coat and the whole wall painted. Skimming plasterboard walls can be generally found on the smaller developments, where dry lining sub-contractors are rarely used. On older properties wet, 2 coat plaster is often used. The source of cracks in plaster needs to be established to ensure that the right remedial action is taken and what is shown here applies to only one type of crack.
Thanks so much for showing this crack repair & reason for it happening in the first place ! I have a floor to ceiling crack which I've wondered how best to repair ? I've watched lots of "usually American" repairs but as you explain they " do it differently to us " This way shows a repair to UK requirements ! Thanks again 👍
@@johnsharp5296 This video assumes you have a plasterboard and skim wall, which may only account for 1/3rd of the potential wall construction you have.
I'd have been a bit nervous to fill such a big hole with joint compound, I'm interested in seeing how it holds up. Here in the US, I've seen others make a butterfly patch out of spare drywall - they're pretty easy, and won't shrink on you. Not sure if UK plasterboard is paper backed like North American Sheetrock is, though.
The best method for permanently repairing these cracks is by removing all the loose plaster ensuring the plasterboard is fixed properly and using soudal foam, as per painting and decorating brothers on you tube. I have never had a crack return after using this method and it's much quicker than doing it your way.
I think I'd have tried banging in a few drywall screws first, without disturbing the existing surface - and just fill the heads. I'd only start removing plaster if that didn't work.
In the UK mass house builders hardly skim walls. They normally tape and joint as it cuts down on drying times and is also cheaper. The plasterboard is normally tapered edge to allow for a taped joint. With a an unsupported joint like that I try to inject a bit of expanding foam adhesive behind to bond everything together. It would help if the job was done properly in the first place. Cracks are the bane of my job.
You sound like someone who does a decent job. Unfortunately, when you get paid per house and not by time, people will cut corners, and many of them - and the government think the housing crisis is now! Give it twenty years and the housing crisis will begin when all these ‘new’ houses are falling down!
@@davyarthurs I try to do a decent job. One of the reasons I gave up new work was because of the standards we have stooped down to. Now I only do my own work and try to hand pick my clients. I'm not as well off but I earn a living and I have the job satisfaction now that I wasn't allowed to achieve. You're probaby correct about the housing crisis. Time will tell.
@@6panel300it will happen they are not worried what will happen 20+ years down the line, chancec are the house will have changed ownership several times by then and the company goes out of business before. just look at all the aerated concrete fuss nowadays.
Hi Stuart great video. I have the older style plaster skimmed over blocks and the fireplace is particular vulnerable to cracks as we have a wood burner is there a plaster more resistant to heat from a chimney ?
Really helpful video but there's a sequel opportunity - what do I do when the muppet builder has put the joint where there's no timber behind?! All solutions welcome. Much appreciate you sharing your experience to save me having to learn the hard way- keep it up 👍
Only way I can think of is to cut back the board to the mid-point of the studs either side of the unsupported join, screw the new edges down, then a new piece of board spanning that gap, screwed down, taped, and skimmed or feathered depending on how your walls are done. This assumes the builder did this in just the one location to lazily cut corners, and they weren't just entirely incompetent, doing this in multiple places. If that's the case you might be better off biting the bullet, and redoing the whole lot properly rather than many separate patches all over the place.
Honestly dont know how you do it but the last few few videos have all been problems i have been facing are you spying on me ?? Keep up the good work cheers for the videos
Have some of these in my flat, but this is 60 years old.. some of the drywall has actually separated from the dot and dab it seems, been doing a lot of little patch work.
TOP TIP - apply 2 layers of masking tape around the edge of the hole and skim to that level, then sand flush when dry. This avoids having to reapply due to shrinkage.
The reason for that crack is that it is the closing side of the door, so every time the door shuts the vibration causes movement. I think you will find that the underlying studwork is not as firmly fixed together as it should be, and that the crack will probably return.
Should never have a joint on opening jambs. If a joint is required over an opening, the plaster joint should be on the second stud from the jamb forming an inverted L. In Australia, we use stud glue where no screws are used. The stud glue shrinks when drying pulling the plaster closer to the studs.
I noticed at 9.18 you didn't bother to fill the gap between the plasterboard before putting the mesh , so the filler will shrink into the gap behind over time and you will have a crack reappearing on that side of the door.
Hi Stuart, Good afternoon, I have cracks all over in sitting room ceiling where the plasterboard meets. But there is wallpaper on top and still you can see the cracks. I want to do exactly what did in your video. I have checked using magnets where the plasterboard meets each other. The house was built in 1960's. I have managed to one room upstairs but the sitting room is nasty. The wallpaper is causing difficulties. Best wishes from Leicester England
Really super video which will help with similar issues I have in our new build. One question. We have a recurring crack on a corner. Often is only visible in certain conditions or temperatures. Could this be a similar issues with the boards? If so, do I then need to chisel out a few centimetres either side of the corner and repeat the same process as here?
Got a similar issue where a supporting wall was taken down to open up kitchen and dining room. A flitch beam was shoed in to support the rooms above. 5 years and many repairs later and it still keeps cracking. Any advice 😢
I think so. I think it is also recommended to use hot mud with fiber tape because when regular joint compound shrinks it removes the tension of the fibers in the tape, which is what makes it strong. Or use paper with regular mud instead.
Anyone else notice the shiny brassy screw heads at 7:52 ? Are those even plasterboard fixings, or have they used whatever crap they could lay their hands on?
*Freed from the stress of a 9-5 work schedule, I built a 230k nest egg in just two months, enabling me to pay off my mortgage-* *Thank you, Stacey Neal Brooks*
Grateful to Stacey as well, for her efforts that got me to this point, finally paid off my mortgage and all debts, what more could I have asked for. She changed my life for good.
Nice meeting someone who also work with Stacey, she’s the only one I have complete faith in, she got me proflts of 14,OOO with a small start up of 2,5OO and ever since she has been delivering.
some good tips here to stop a stud wall cracking. Another much easier tip if the wall are bricl or block work is to rake out the crack, mix up some filler with PVA glue and apply, making sure it is a s flush as you can get it. When hard sand back and paint.
I think because the boards taper thinner towards the edges, that when two boards butt up against eachother there is a "valley" that is lower. They fill those tapered lower "valleys" with jointing compound and fill any fixing holes. So the majority face of the board doesn't have to be skimmed over as far as I'm aware
When you were screwing in the plasterboard edges at th-cam.com/video/4mFVTKhxJaQ/w-d-xo.html the door frame moved. Had you removed some screws or is it not all screwed together? Also a bit weird you have no architrave on one side, is this a door that was put in after the house was built?
Twenty years ago, this sort of how to video would have been on the BBC and it would have been seen by millions. This has the vibe of a BBC show, high quality, high production values, well written and demonstrated. It's a crime that this channel isn't way more popular. Thank you for showing us this.
Remember Barry Bucknell on BBC in the 60s? Used to watch him with my Dad.
Yep. Even abroad, you could usually get BBC Prime, which was full of DIY shows, great documentaries about science, company management, etc., and people in every country used to love it and say how much better it was than their shallow local channels. Then at some point it just became the EastEnders channel, they eventually changed the name to "BBC Entertainment", and IMO don't even provide _that._
The Discovery Channel kind of took up the "maker channel" mantle for a while (with MythBusters, Dirty Jobs, etc.) but now it's mostly shows about fake shops pretending to sell things, con men pretending to chase ghosts, and people pretending to survive in the wild while surrounded by a massive TV production crew.
@@zeno2712what a favour he did to future house owners by covering all those ‘old fashioned’ doors with hardboard ! And what about that pump screwdriver !!😊
@@zeno2712My late father was a joiner. He cursed Barry Bucknell because ordinary folk would watch the show and see (for example) a new stud wall being created and plasterboarded and plastered and painted within the time limit of the show. So the punters would then be generous to my dad and give him twice the time to do the same work! :-)
Wasn't there a so-called scandal where some tabloid newspaper got pictures of the multitude of workers that did the actual graft and Mr Bucknell was depicted as doing all the work himself?
You mean 'cordless' screwdriver? @happyharry7331
As an owner of a new home - this channel has been a gem and has saved me thousands. I've done my own curtains, built storage, did my garden lights, outdoor switches - thankyou proper DIY, what an awesome channel.
Did you buy a new build knowing that you would have endless content for the TH-cam channel 😆😆
I live in a new build I think your right I will be repairing a crack just like this one
How to fix your new build: knock it down and rebuild it yourself. Problem sorted, forever!
@@nathan87 yea because an older property never has cracks on the walls! 😂🤣
@@TELE6220 wow lol, when I grow up, I like to be like you!!!
Of course, the quality of new builds are awful !
Carried out this exact process about a month ago on a ceiling crack from side to side of one room. The only thing I would add is that I used some SPR ( or PVA) before re-taping and plastering just to ensure I gave it the best chance to adhere properly. Brilliant video Stuart.
It’s interesting to watch how different people fix things like I know how to fix cracks but I always like to watch people you never know you may pick up a point or two
Great job on this video
I’m in the USA and had a couple cracks that kept returning. 1 at a long horizontal joint of drywall in tall wall room and 2nd one diagonal from top of back door entrance frame. Tried the mesh a couple times and didn’t work for more than a year. Finally ended up cutting very large parts of the the drywall out a full stud away from the cracks. reinstalled stronger backed bathroom shower drywall and the cracks never returned (Thankfully…. haha)! Hope your family has a great 2025 !
Stuart, I always start watching your videos thinking that I already know how to do this and won’t learn anything. I am always wrong. Excellent work.
Here in Australia it is very common to not have the existing skim coat over the plasterboard. We scrape out the cracks, fill the scraped section with the same filler as you use. With smaller cracks like your demonstration we add tape over the plasterboard cracked area overlapping onto the face of the plasterboard but don’t put tape on tape as on the corners in your video. That would be too thick to conceal with filler. We then put filler over the tape, embedding it in a very thin layer. Next, after drying and a quick sand we add a wider skim coat over the first area at least once. Extra coats are skimmed on if necessary (and they usually are) getting wider and wider each time with sanding in between coats. Tedious but it works well because the repair tapers onto the previously cracked area very gradually. Often the tape is perforated paper or sometimes that mesh type, depending on the situation. Pretty much like the US system. I prefer the UK system but it is more expensive in the first place. $$$$$$ rule here 😬
Where you had that missing corner prior to filling I would have painted on a diluted PVA and let it soak in as it would bond the crumbly edge and make it strong again. Also on the other side I would recommend prefilling those large cracks
I've just repaired a large crack running down the wall behind an elevator. The final repair was 10cm wide x 2300cm. The _amount of dust_ from hand sanding was unbelievable ! Thankfully it was in a hallway with no furniture in it. Lesson leart : get an electric hand sander that you can attach the vacuum cleaner to as you have in your video. All the best and greetings from Prague, CZ
10cm x 23m? 🤮
@@mabozar15 Haha, ooops ! 10cm x 230cm ( ceiling height )
Aren't the particles of gypsum dust too fine for an ordinary vacuum cleaner? I mean, wouldn't they clog its filters or damage it?
23 meters is more than a crack. 😂😂
@@okupantgb You are correct, and the instructions for my new vacuum cleaner state that it's not for building work, just normal household dust. So I swept it up x 4 ( after dusting the walls ). Then mopped the floor. The next morning, it took another 2 sweeps and mopping. And then I vacuumed the floor and washed the soles of my shoes. Finally, it appears I got all of it.
Great video. I also find a little watered down PVA applied before filling helps the repair plaster to bond better.
Damn, unfortunately the wife has also seen today’s video, so what I thought was going to be a relaxing Sunday suddenly became an overalls on, DIY day.
... we all know that on the inside your going to enjoy it! 😊 ... but we won't tell 😉
She demanded that you start filling a crack immediately?
@@RFC3514No matter how much filler I apply, that crack always finds a way to resurface.
I learnt a little bit about getting ride of cracks for ever and I learnt a lot about the quality of UK new builds.
Great video, thanks. Really clear explanations of why you're doing things which is exactly what I'm looking for. You've got a new subscriber 😊
I've had ready mixed fillers of that sort shrink over the course of a month of so after filling that deep. Hopefully this holds up well for you but perhaps a hairline crack will open back up around that missing corner. It's a good reason to keep a few scraps of plasterboard tucked away for patching.
Yes, only use ready mix for screw pops and things not more than a few mm. Easifill or powder mix for everything else.
Perfect timing. My property is 2 years old build with loads of thin cracks. Better crack on with the repairs. Great video as always 👍🏼
Don't you just love the quality of new builds.
Stuart - I have a similar issue in my bathroom ceiling where after a few months it will begin to crack. The house is a late 70's build and the bathroom was renovated 4 years ago and made bigger to accommodate a walk in shower. Part of the ceiling is original plasterboard, and some is new, and the crack appears between them. My wife and I must have redone it 4 or 5 times now, and after seeing this vid I am less inclined to believe its the humidity from the steam in the room causing it. Thank you for sharing your expertise, and giving me the confidence to have a go at these things myself!
May well need some timber noggins to carry the joint between old and new.
This exact problem is why it's best practise to keep the joints in the boards from being too close to the corners of doors and windows. I was taught at least 12"
A very useful video. Knowing the cause of the crack is important. Something I think i could try.
I love your videos ....Thanks.... keep them coming
I have a couple of these to sort out and I have some ideas, but it's helpful to see your take on it, thanks.
Thanks Stuart, I have one very similar above one of my doors on my to do list so very helpful !
Will be sharing the video with my adult children too, as they're just starting their DIY journeys !
After a major kitchen/dining room remodel, we’re getting quite a few cracks along seams in the original ceiling sheets, which we know weren’t installed well originally. In the US, but the same principle should apply: drive more sheetrock screws into the joists and fill the divots. Does seem plaster would provide more “wiggle room”, though. Longer repair times and opportunity for wavy walls, though, it seems.
I live in an old cottage, to fill cracks in my house I use roof tiles on edge then lime hemp 😅 works a treat! Thanks for the content Stuart 👍
Back when I started out on my DIY journey, I fluked a solution to this kind of problem (which was admittedly a reoccurring crack in a corner between plasterboard and door architrave). I stuffed a vertical "thread" of some mesh tape (about 1-2mm) into the crack, then plastered over it, and sanded flat. Did this process until the crack stopped occurring. Then added paintable silicone over the area, and repainted wall and architrave. 6 years and no crack. Perhaps a bodge but looks sublime. Sick of settlement cracks tbh.
I live in the UK in a relatively new build (13 years old) and there's not plaster over the plasterboard!
Builder is David Wilson Homes (now part of Barratt)
He must be thinking of small developers. When I was involved with the likes of Barratt, David Wilson, Bovis etc. They all used the plasterboard surface as the final surface before paint. Btw, I think David Wilson is part of the Barratt group, or it was before I retired.
Probably easyfill on them
@@retiree1033 You're right DWH has been acquired by Barratt.
I'll edit my comment accordingly.
Drywall system, tape and fill the joints then sand to fade. Less wait time for wet trades to dry out, quicker turnaround, cheaper.
Great video and hope you stay warm and safe during this weather
As always thank you this is going to be my next job.
Then to reinforce the cracks around the exterior windows
This has been very informative, thank you for this video.
Just what I have in my new build, so very timely video Stuart, thanks!
I had massive issues with my ceilings throughout the house. To be honest, I think my plasterer generally didn't do a good job, but I also fixed it with paper tape rather than mesh. Another channel, Vancouver Carpenter, explained the downside of mesh, which motivated me to try papertape. The room done with paper has now been crack-free for 2 years, while all the mesh once have cracks. While fixing the house, I will only use paper tape going forward.
another quick and simple fix thanks as always
Quick n simple?????
Good advice as usual. Regarding the filler (not sure what he used), I've had good results with Toupret, and Gyproc 60. Both powder types. Also, I'd recommend never buying a new build property!
Say No To Cracks!
well done Stuart!
Many thanks Stephen for the advice, will definitely give your solution a go. Really appreciate the help, Thanks 👍
Well done.
Brilliant advice Stuart 👍👍
I’ve heard you mention that UK plasterboard walls differ from American houses a few times now. We have a 15-20 year old house in the UK and the walls are just plasterboard, no thin layer of plaster skim over the top. And we have a few persistent straight line cracks.
Cracking job!
The majority of new build houses built in the last 30+ years have plasterboard with no plaster skim coat. Taper edged plasterboard is used that is then filled with a top coat and the whole wall painted. Skimming plasterboard walls can be generally found on the smaller developments, where dry lining sub-contractors are rarely used. On older properties wet, 2 coat plaster is often used.
The source of cracks in plaster needs to be established to ensure that the right remedial action is taken and what is shown here applies to only one type of crack.
Thanks so much for showing this crack repair & reason for it happening in the first place !
I have a floor to ceiling crack which I've wondered how best to repair ? I've watched lots of "usually American" repairs but as you explain they " do it differently to us "
This way shows a repair to UK requirements !
Thanks again 👍
@@johnsharp5296 This video assumes you have a plasterboard and skim wall, which may only account for 1/3rd of the potential wall construction you have.
Other way is to rake it out deeply, fill with low expanding foam, fill. Job done!
My Mrs. pointed out a crack, so I had to fill it immediately. She was very pleased with the result.
Don't think we didn't see what you did there.
And now you'll never have to fill it again!
Beat me to that one .😂
Did you completely tape it over?
Did you remember to fill the small hole behind the crack as well?
I will be repairing an almost identical crack in my home today thanks for video
Great tip. Thanks, Stuart.
Brilliant! My diy hero!
thank you so much for your never ending wisdom!!
Thank you for this video sir 💪
Learnt something now there mate, cheers
I'd have been a bit nervous to fill such a big hole with joint compound, I'm interested in seeing how it holds up. Here in the US, I've seen others make a butterfly patch out of spare drywall - they're pretty easy, and won't shrink on you. Not sure if UK plasterboard is paper backed like North American Sheetrock is, though.
Very helpful, thank you! 👍
Great video another thing ive learnt this is the best DIY channel thanks Stewart Happy New year 🎉
The best method for permanently repairing these cracks is by removing all the loose plaster ensuring the plasterboard is fixed properly and using soudal foam, as per painting and decorating brothers on you tube. I have never had a crack return after using this method and it's much quicker than doing it your way.
Great video!! Loving the channel ..
Worth mentioning that you cut the trench back to at least the width of the tape. Nice job, Stuart.
I think I'd have tried banging in a few drywall screws first, without disturbing the existing surface - and just fill the heads. I'd only start removing plaster if that didn't work.
Good to see what’s underneath though.
A simpler way, to save digging out the plaster, is to add some screws and use FibaFuse tape over the top of the crack.
Stuart…. As per usual some really handy tips.
Very clear and educational. Many thanks
In the UK mass house builders hardly skim walls. They normally tape and joint as it cuts down on drying times and is also cheaper. The plasterboard is normally tapered edge to allow for a taped joint. With a an unsupported joint like that I try to inject a bit of expanding foam adhesive behind to bond everything together. It would help if the job was done properly in the first place. Cracks are the bane of my job.
You sound like someone who does a decent job. Unfortunately, when you get paid per house and not by time, people will cut corners, and many of them - and the government think the housing crisis is now! Give it twenty years and the housing crisis will begin when all these ‘new’ houses are falling down!
@@davyarthurs I try to do a decent job. One of the reasons I gave up new work was because of the standards we have stooped down to. Now I only do my own work and try to hand pick my clients. I'm not as well off but I earn a living and I have the job satisfaction now that I wasn't allowed to achieve. You're probaby correct about the housing crisis. Time will tell.
@@6panel300it will happen they are not worried what will happen 20+ years down the line, chancec are the house will have changed ownership several times by then and the company goes out of business before. just look at all the aerated concrete fuss nowadays.
@@maciej9280 Yeah, it's all about money. Glad I got out when I did.
Hi stuart happy new year.A very informative video as usual.
Hi Stuart great video. I have the older style plaster skimmed over blocks and the fireplace is particular vulnerable to cracks as we have a wood burner is there a plaster more resistant to heat from a chimney ?
Happy new year
Fantastic tips! 😁
Great video, any thoughts on how your technique could be adapted for use on Dot n Dab walls? Thanks, Dave
Really helpful video but there's a sequel opportunity - what do I do when the muppet builder has put the joint where there's no timber behind?! All solutions welcome. Much appreciate you sharing your experience to save me having to learn the hard way- keep it up 👍
Only way I can think of is to cut back the board to the mid-point of the studs either side of the unsupported join, screw the new edges down, then a new piece of board spanning that gap, screwed down, taped, and skimmed or feathered depending on how your walls are done. This assumes the builder did this in just the one location to lazily cut corners, and they weren't just entirely incompetent, doing this in multiple places. If that's the case you might be better off biting the bullet, and redoing the whole lot properly rather than many separate patches all over the place.
Honestly dont know how you do it but the last few few videos have all been problems i have been facing are you spying on me ?? Keep up the good work cheers for the videos
Nice one Stuart,Happy NewYear.👍👍
Indeed I enjoyed the video... I could watch this for hours... ;-)
Have some of these in my flat, but this is 60 years old.. some of the drywall has actually separated from the dot and dab it seems, been doing a lot of little patch work.
Cheers Stuart. Very helpful videos. Like the calm way you approach your jobs. p.s…is that the door you cut in a few months ago?
TOP TIP - apply 2 layers of masking tape around the edge of the hole and skim to that level, then sand flush when dry. This avoids having to reapply due to shrinkage.
The reason for that crack is that it is the closing side of the door, so every time the door shuts the vibration causes movement. I think you will find that the underlying studwork is not as firmly fixed together as it should be, and that the crack will probably return.
Brilliant. as usual
Can we have a video on how to permanently fix floor to ceiling cracks in dot and dab walls please.
Great video and informative.
Should never have a joint on opening jambs. If a joint is required over an opening, the plaster joint should be on the second stud from the jamb forming an inverted L. In Australia, we use stud glue where no screws are used. The stud glue shrinks when drying pulling the plaster closer to the studs.
Great job, what filler did you use or recommend for this finish work please?
Great vid - thanks 👍🏻
Good stuff
Here in Wales my new build timber frame is just painted plasterboard and I have many cracks from floor to ceiling so how is that remedied
I noticed at 9.18 you didn't bother to fill the gap between the plasterboard before putting the mesh , so the filler will shrink into the gap behind over time and you will have a crack reappearing on that side of the door.
Which jointing compound did you use please?
Hi Stuart,
Good afternoon,
I have cracks all over in sitting room ceiling where the plasterboard meets.
But there is wallpaper on top and still you can see the cracks.
I want to do exactly what did in your video.
I have checked using magnets where the plasterboard meets each other.
The house was built in 1960's.
I have managed to one room upstairs but the sitting room is nasty.
The wallpaper is causing difficulties.
Best wishes from Leicester England
Very cool.
How do you paint the filled parts and avoid flash over? Thanks
Really super video which will help with similar issues I have in our new build. One question. We have a recurring crack on a corner. Often is only visible in certain conditions or temperatures. Could this be a similar issues with the boards? If so, do I then need to chisel out a few centimetres either side of the corner and repeat the same process as here?
i got similar in solid brick plastered bathroom which is facing south. the crack appears during warm days and dissapears in the evening 😅
Hi yes I've got that p problem but it's the lentil thats moved above the door
Got a similar issue where a supporting wall was taken down to open up kitchen and dining room. A flitch beam was shoed in to support the rooms above. 5 years and many repairs later and it still keeps cracking. Any advice 😢
Wouldn't hot mud be a better choice for the filler of that huge missing piece?
Thanks!
I think so. I think it is also recommended to use hot mud with fiber tape because when regular joint compound shrinks it removes the tension of the fibers in the tape, which is what makes it strong. Or use paper with regular mud instead.
Anyone else notice the shiny brassy screw heads at 7:52 ? Are those even plasterboard fixings, or have they used whatever crap they could lay their hands on?
Yea they should be plasterboard screws and also neglected to put any in the corners by the door along with using the busted bit of plasterboard 😂
Do you know who build your house and can you say PLS
Surely joining plaster boards over a door or window is just asking for cracks to appear?
Join should be over the centre of the door.
7:12 The builders were probably behind schedule and were told to "cut corners" and took it literally.
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What about houses which is much houses has no gaps between outter bricks and inside bricks ie houses built in 60s to 80s
How could a similar cracks be repaired if the plasterboard was applied using dot and dab method, and there are no plasterboard screws?
some good tips here to stop a stud wall cracking. Another much easier tip if the wall are bricl or block work is to rake out the crack, mix up some filler with PVA glue and apply, making sure it is a s flush as you can get it. When hard sand back and paint.
Out of interst in america if they dont skim plaster boards how do they hide the joins. Or do they not and just caulk amd paint it
Paper tape and thin skim.
I think because the boards taper thinner towards the edges, that when two boards butt up against eachother there is a "valley" that is lower. They fill those tapered lower "valleys" with jointing compound and fill any fixing holes. So the majority face of the board doesn't have to be skimmed over as far as I'm aware
When you were screwing in the plasterboard edges at th-cam.com/video/4mFVTKhxJaQ/w-d-xo.html the door frame moved. Had you removed some screws or is it not all screwed together? Also a bit weird you have no architrave on one side, is this a door that was put in after the house was built?