I’m very critical about coatings and prep work coming from 40 years in the auto refinish business. You my friend did all your prep work well and did a very nice job on the application. It looks fabulous!!
WichitaFixIt NO NO NO not your mistakes ALL of the others who have done it in real time (my daughter and her husband for one and one of my best friends who attempted to redo her daughters counters...
I think you done a fabulous job with everything. No one knows until you try it yourself. It beats the hell out of buying a new countertop any day. Thank you for your video.
How smooth is the final finish? It looked a little grainy when you first showed the 'after' effect, however, that could have just been the light. Just wondering if there's enough top coat in the kit to sand it a couple of times and still have enough protection.
Wow, thanks for showing an excellent way to get the granite look without the tremendous cost, especially since my kitchen and my budget is on the "small side." I am one of those DIY ladies and I am putting this on my list of projects. Great job, great video!!!!
The durability on this product is excellent, i'ts been almost a year and there's still no signs of wear, even with stoneware dishes and pots and pans sliding on it.
(wonders if he'll reply to a 5 yrs old vid) Would you recommend using a roller after applying the granules? I'm thinking it'll reduce excess but not sure if it'll affect the evenness. Good vid tho!
Every paint company out there has an oil base paint. I know I have been painting for 20yrs. I have also done this Rust o leum countertop finish before. I love this product. It can save homeowners or condo owners lots of money. If done right you can make it look just like granite.
I use to be a cabinet maker so I've made and install every type of countertop you can think of, I was also a technical training instructor for Comcast cable and I have to say you did a great job on your video, well done and very informative,
After getting a quote for just replacing my laminate counter tops my sister told me about transformation s. They had the exact color I wanted. A lot of work doing it alone,but I couldn’t be happier with the outcome. The tutorial was great and I watched it many times. Big mess and the dispenser was not good. I just threw it by hand. I would do it again though. T. U. Irene
I'm impressed. Great for a budget upgrade in the kitchen. Now that yellow 70's Formica countertop can look a hell of alot better. Just re-face the cabinet's and it will make a major difference.
I don't know how long it's been since you did this video, but I'll say, you did a superb job!! If my Dad was still alive, he would be on this (as he would say) like "stink on s _. lol That was MY DAD!!! Great JOB..........
At least your neighbors are actually living there and not some empty building awaiting squatters. Thanks for the video it's gonna be very helpful when the wife and I get started.
yes, it comes with the spreader and everything you need except paint rollers, brushes and pan. If you are thinking of doing this? Make sure you sand the granules smooth but you won't get them as smooth as the sample peice they send in the kit, that's a joke! Don't apply the top coat heavy it will leave roller marks and they are hard to get out. Just apply multiple thin coats, let it dry at least 4 hours between coats. I think it's a great product, easy to apply with great results. Good luck!
Probably a stupid question but do you sand after each thin coat or is that not something you sand lol? It looks awesome & glad to hear it holds up very well!
Nice Job i was told about this from my brother in law he is a contractor up north and gives his customers choices on either buying the material ( counter tops already done) or doing it this way, he saves his cutomers a lot of money that way and gives him alot of work. He also says that the durability is great on this. I Subscribed to your channel and I am going to do mine this way, as my counter tops I estimated that just in materials will run me about close to 1000 dollars with labor it would cost another 500 so doing it this way I am going to save money big time I hope this does the trick and it should. The counter tops you have are the same as mine smooth white laminate. Keep up the good work and keep posting vids I had bought a fixer upper for our 1st home and the inside looks like its back from the 70's lol I need the modern look
we replaced our countertops 2 years ago using melamine board and this product. The results were excellent, the cost about 1/4 of formed countertop. There were some learnings from doing it.... use all of the base coat, granules and topcoat. There is no need to skimp. When sanding the granules, watch for consistency, and likewise with the top coat. The surface has stood up well, but I don't think it is as durable as Formica.
Hot pans have not done any damage, rough bottoms of plates and small appliances have not made any scratches and it still cleans easy and shines. You can find this product at several home improvement stores.
I appreciate the comment, I haven't had any problem with staining, heat staining or chipping, I think for the money it's an awesome product for a diy project.
My hubby is a talented DIYer, but does not enjoy it. Over the years I have graduated from the researcher to the Hands on DIYer. Love the sense of accomplishment.
shut your mouth Roger! how dare you steve is way hotter than you and you know it! unless you’re wearing slightly off from age white briefs with blown out elastic like steve you can’t even begin to compare
boobam We'll, I have to admit, I do mess my pants now and then, and sure I'm bald with buck teeth. But, the garbage lady at the refuse department told me I'm a good catch!
@@wichitafixit So, I have a question. I have my counter tops prepped and ready to begin. I read (somewhere) that the application of the adhesive and chips can be done in smaller sections (I have a 'U' shaped kitchen}. How in the world would that work when you have to apply the adhesive AND the chips before moving on to the next section (i.e., SAME counter top, next 'section').... how does one keep the rolling of the 'next' section from picking up the chips from the previous area really puzzles me. So worried about the short drying time of the product, so thought smaller sections would help. Any advice?
no, I wanted to see if the consistency of the material would actually fill like a quarter inch Gap, now I found out that it will fill gaps up to about a half inch without breaking down or moving and no shrink.
Good job! I would think that you wouldn't want to place a hot pan on the surface just like you wouldn't have done so with the Formica that that was there. Looks great!
Wow! That looks amazing. I'm going to be remodeling a 1953 Mid Century Modern home. I can see how this product would works for a variety of applications. Including bath countertops and in laundry rooms or small tabletops. As I can't afford to remodel everything at once, this is a solution until I can do what I want. Affordable and looks great. Thanks for the how to video. I've subscribed!
It takes any oil based product a good week before you don't have any order, and rust-oleum is no exception it will take a good week before the smell is totally eliminated from the house.
@@Xyzzzzzz1234 If you go with epoxy you'll find that you'll need to buy a tiny vial of this special protectant for the surface. I can't recall what the name is but I just remember it was expensive...like 75-90 bucks for 1 oz.
Looks great. I'm thinking of doing this to my countertops. A before and after photo would be nice. Noticed your cabinets could use an updating, been reading about chalk painting as an easier means to paint cabinets. New paint and new hardware and your kitchen would look amazing! Thanks for posting, great job!
Good price! For 200 bucks you are doing good to get the new laminate to do the job, plus the k-3 or mdf for the sub lay, labour. get a plumber to remove/replace sink, change outdated fixture/ drain parts, redo tile, drywall repairs before doing new tile etc. Good handyman product when working on a thin budget. Looks good.
Good job man! looked good, I do granite and for 200 dollars ive seen people spends Way more on stuff that would scratch easier or just as easy so id be happy with it and am thinking about doing it!
Great video. Going to tackle this myself tomorrow, and feel much more comfortable having watched this. Glad to hear that it's holding up, I was a little unsure about the durability. Thanks!
You didnt pop the sink out? If the sink ever has to come out for some reason you might crack the new finish around the sink edge. Easier to get in small space too
Yep it happened to me had to remove sink for disposal that went bad and faucet and chips come up with the sink. I recommend to people if they have to remove sink score it with a sharp knife blade real good before removing sink with this product. Just sharing lessons learned 😄🙏😎
the reason I didn't take the sink out is I wanted to see if it would make a good seal and fill a gap around the sink, it worked out fine and hasn't chipped or cracked, but I would recommend removing the sink.
Several years ago my mother left her home and moved to a senior's residence. I did a number of minor renos to prepare the house for sale. Kitchen counters were laminate in good condition, but out of style colour and pattern, so I did the Rust-o-leum CounterTop Transformation. It was an older Rust-o-leum system that was quite a labourious task. Luckily, mom wasn't in the house and the kitchen wasn't in use. A lot of fumes and a very messy process. The final clear coat was a 2-part epoxy that had to be poured on and leveled. I was very pleased with the final result, but it did take almost a week to complete the process and the kitchen would have been unusable throughout the process.
This system is a little more updated, it didn't have the fumes and the process didn't take nearly as long from start to finish, But the top coat is oil base it did have a smell, The countertops have held up well And I think it was a pretty good purchase overall, Thanks for the comment, Check out some of my other videos at Wichitafixit on youtube
how long would u say it takes for the smell to get out of the house? We painted with rustoleum 2 days ago and the fumes from the paint are still extremely potent. have Windows open with fans running. just wondering if it takes a couple weeks for the smell to dissipate?
+TRICK-OR TREAT took about 2 weeks for the fume smell to be gone. Had to leave the Windows open the whole time. Definitely not a job to do in the winter. seems to dry faster in warmer temperature (above 70-75 degrees). once it was completely dry and set the smell disparated pretty fast. Also, the paint chips pretty easily once fully dried. Had to repaint a few spots because a cup fell on the counter.
Well first of all this product isn't Concrete, it's been on many surfaces for more than 2 years and hasn't chipped or cracked, it's a very good product and reasonably priced! as far as it being smooth it will be as smooth as you want it to be as you sand, the surface isn't porous it's almost as smooth as Formica with the top seal coat.
keith sheridan - maybe not if you are only holding off from a full remodel. I can see myself making this change versus have the tops fully replaced on cabinets I wanted to replace.
I call it smooth wavy and that is how it's supposed to be, you may be able to put several more top coats on and lose some of that but I didn't have enough top coat material, and you can't buy just the top coat.
Hablas español? Me gusto mucho tu video, a mi se me acaba de quemar una mesada y se hicieron globitos en la lamina de plastico, esto puede tener solución?
Thank you for such an informative video. Straight to the punch and even your own useful tips and tricks. I just bought this kit in Java Stone and didn't realize it only came with a DVD... I found your video looking for How-To and I'm so happy I did. I applied the chips yesterday and am now about to sand and top coat. I can't wait to see how it turns out!
I am trying to re-spray my rusted interior microwave oven. I was told my the sales agent at Lowes, this product works great with no side effect on food or high heat. Any feedback welcome.
Thanks for sharing. A really nice job. I was curious about that countertop treatment. It was nice to see the whole process. You did a great job discussing the product and aiming the camera. I hope you give a status update on the durability/longevity of the product. Oh yeah,the black caulk was a classy touch. It really brought the whole look together.Keep the shows coming. Thank You
the countertop transformation was applied to formica countertops, the formica was not coming loose or any other problems with it other than it was ugly and time to do something different!
Tiffany Stefanovic ------- If you're looking to do this and don't understand the purpose, I'm going to explain it and how to do it yourself because it is incredibly simple, and I like helping people. I wrote a lot just to cover every possibility, but it is not difficult or labor intensive. -- There will be an unattractive, visible edge between the sink lip and countertop that may crack or chip if you don't lift the sink. If the sink moves even a fraction of an inch it will show, and that possibility is high considering the ever changing moisture in the area. Most sinks are not held down very tightly. If you open the cabinet doors and look upward at the bottom of the sink you'll find the lip is held by clamps set by screws or bolts. They usually aren't difficult to get to or difficult to remove because the sink is already held down by gravity, so the original installer doesn't need a lot of force to hold it still. You may need a long screwdriver or socket extension. YOU PROBABLY WON'T HAVE TO PULL THE ENTIRE SINK. That's the best part of all this. The water lines are usually somewhat forgiving and move also, especially if they are flexible hoses. The drain is also somewhat flexible most of the time. All you need is to raise the sink enough to keep it out of the way and prepare the surface underneath the lip of the sink itself....... That means you can get by with raising it about an inch off the counter. Put some blocks or something in the cabinet or area under the sink and lift the entire thing supporting it by the bottoms of the sink itself, not the water or drain lines. Just let those move with the sink. If you have a hydraulic jack or car jack they really make it easy. It's worth going to your vehicle to get it unless you know someone like me that has several hydraulic jacks. You can raise the sink without having to stay underneath it. Just watch your lines while you raise it slowly. -- If there is a lot of area laterally between the top edge of the counter cutout and the lip of the sink, you might be able to brace it there if necessary. Just don't use something so wide that you defeat the purpose. You may have an area that wants to tilt over onto the countertop and a small wedge at the counter may be necessary. I would avoid that and brace it from underneath if it were mine. I might take a stick or sticks and cut it to size so that one end of the stick supports the bottom lip of the sink and the other end braces at the floor. I would use the sticks or something that serves the purpose only if additional support was needed in an area. If it does tilt, it will usually happen at the back edge where the faucet is located. -- Trust me, this so simple even for a complete novice. If the rare event occurs that the lines can't give a little and move with the sink, which will almost certainly NOT be the case, you will have to disconnect them and pull the sink up from there or completely out if you wish, but try disconnecting the drain above the P-trap first. I'll tell you more about this later, but I always loosen the compression fitting above the P-trap yet never take it completely apart. That's almost always the only disassembly needed. Avoid disassembly of the two water lines, but if it's necessary just take a crescent wrench, open ended wrench, or whatever is appropriate to unthread the lines. They are normally between a 3/8 and 1/2 nut. You only have two water lines to pull and one drain. If you must pull the water lines, turn off the shutoff valves under the sink so you won't have to disconnect the entire water main to the home. They are usually found where the water lines come into and through the floor or back wall. Try to move the sink a little before disconnecting water lines. Even copper lines often move just enough, especially if they come in vertically through the floor, to avoid complete removal, but do not kink them. If they are flexible or braided lines, just trust me, they'll move. Don't disconnect them if they have even a little slack in the line. If you have to reassemble metal lines, get a roll of teflon tape. It's super cheap. Wrap the male thread twice in a clockwise direction. Then rethread and tighten well. If they leak still, just scratch that and go get flexible lines from the hardware store. They are cheap, easier to work with, rarely leak or cause problems, withstand movement, are very easy to install, and don't need teflon tape most of the time because the connections are plastic or have a rubber washer inside that compresses and seals it shut. If you ever have to replace a water line, flexible braided lines and plastic lines almost never leak and they are so, so, so easy to use that a complete novice has no problem. They don't even need to be super tight. Some of them have plastic connections with wings on them to hand tighten because that's sufficient. They are far superior to metal when making a quick connect that doesn't leak. I have replaced copper lines that were such a pain that I got tired of it and resorted to braided lines. I always give them a bit more than hand tightens, but just barely. These are even found at Wal Mart -- You don't need to disassemble the drain at every connection, just the main. There is a U shaped part of the drain called a P-trap. That's usually a good place to disconnect. Disconnect above the P-trap but not at the sink itself. There is a compression fitting between the sink and P- trap. Loosen that. The pipe coming from the sink slides down into that, so when you raise the sink it will likely stay in the drain line and you don't have to pull it all apart. That U shape serves multiple purposes. It catches items, like dropped rings, and prevents them from going completely down the drain. It also holds water that prevents dangerous methane gasses and odors from coming back up and into the home. Often times these are easily removed by someone with strong hands, but if not it can be removed with a large pair of channel locks (commonly mistakenly called pliers), or with other tools. A lot of people leave a large wrench that came with the sink or garbage disposal nearby. By the way, if you have a garbage disposal, they also have a tool most people leave under the sink. If your disposal clogs up, you can take the tool and insert it into the bottom of the disposal and manually turn it back and forth to break the clog loose without ever getting your hands dirty. There is also a circuit breaker on the bottom of the disposal that flips when it binds up. Just get the clog out and push the button (usually red button) on the disposal and you're good to go. -- If you don't want to do all this, the op mentioned lifting the sink before sanding. That's even easier because you can lift one edge at a time. That will assure that the entire area is properly prepped so adhesion doesn't fail near the edge and the sink doesn't take damage or have to be avoided or otherwise worked around tediously. If you have enough depth on the lip of the sink you can run a smooth bead of silicone over the edge between the counter and sink. Most people use clear silicone, but there are other colors that work better in some situations. The silicone will hide the vulnerable edge created and flex, but it can take away from the attractiveness. However, I have seen a clean bead actually help, but that's mostly at inside edges and corners of counter tops or kitchen and bathroom areas that need to be water tight or just don't look good otherwise. Some people put a bead around sinks to prevent water from creeping underneath the lip, but I prefer a clean edge. I may lay a thick bead under the lip before installing the sink and letting the excess squeeze out. Then I clean the excess and call it done.
it's about $250 to do 50 square feet which is pretty reasonable compared to anything else, as far as what you have on the surface now I would rough it up with the sanding pad in the kit, as long as the paint is tight to the countertop you should have any problem.
Im just about to do something with my Kitchen worktops / counter tops but for a small amount more money I could buy new ones. That is a very nice job done though and it looks great.
If my current countertop is one piece with the backsplash, and I want to replace the backsplash with mosaic tiles; should I pull the old laminate off the entire counter and wall or just cut the laminate as close to the wall as possible and remove that part from the wall?
nice job the only thing im missing is the sand block ,it have any numeric grit? like 220 or so ? or 1 block fit all ,another thing what type or dark prime you use? or everything come in the box.
I’m very critical about coatings and prep work coming from 40 years in the auto refinish business. You my friend did all your prep work well and did a very nice job on the application. It looks fabulous!!
I appreciate the comments and views.
This is the best method that I have seen in my 3 years of researching AND learning from other people’s mistakes;)
Thank you I appreciate that, I think? lol
WichitaFixIt NO NO NO not your mistakes ALL of the others who have done it in real time (my daughter and her husband for one and one of my best friends who attempted to redo her daughters counters...
I think you done a fabulous job with everything. No one knows until you try it yourself. It beats the hell out of buying a new countertop any day. Thank you for your video.
It still looks as good as the day I put it on, still holds the shine, edges still look nice it's holding its color and I would do it again!
How smooth is the final finish? It looked a little grainy when you first showed the 'after' effect, however, that could have just been the light. Just wondering if there's enough top coat in the kit to sand it a couple of times and still have enough protection.
Good to know it's holding up & thanks for making this video
How well did this hold up to hot pots and pans being placed around it? How well has it held up to scratches and such as well?
The topcoat is an epoxy finish.... will stand up to normal use.... but a knive will scratch it deep. My guess is hot pans would hurt it
Jordan use ôhhiiu
"it's not going to protect anything if it's in the can" - love it
Wow, thanks for showing an excellent way to get the granite look without the tremendous cost, especially since my kitchen and my budget is on the "small side." I am one of those DIY ladies and I am putting this on my list of projects. Great job, great video!!!!
The durability on this product is excellent, i'ts been almost a year and there's still no signs of wear, even with stoneware dishes and pots and pans sliding on it.
Have you set a hot pot on this surface since you re-did them?? I would like to know if that might ruin it. Thanks :)
@@truksrok Yeah I would like to know how it takes hot pans as well.
Does this product come in different colors? Does the gravel have a mother of pearl look to it?
(wonders if he'll reply to a 5 yrs old vid) Would you recommend using a roller after applying the granules? I'm thinking it'll reduce excess but not sure if it'll affect the evenness. Good vid tho!
5 years later how is it looking?
I've probably watched this video at least 3 times this month. it's so satisfying to know we can do thus ourselves
still holding up strong, no Nicks or cracks in the edge and they still shine.
Thanks for the update
Thankyou for update...looks good...maybe persuade the wife out of GRANITE!!!! hahaha
WichitaFixIt a
PaintedWOLF yes I've used it in bathrooms around the sink as well as outdoor countertops that was covered with an overhang and it holds up great!
PaintedWOLF the top coat is a clear epoxy it would probably work I just don't know for how long, it's very durable if you put on several coats.
Every paint company out there has an oil base paint. I know I have been painting for 20yrs. I have also done this Rust o leum countertop finish before. I love this product. It can save homeowners or condo owners lots of money. If done right you can make it look just like granite.
I use to be a cabinet maker so I've made and install every type of countertop you can think of, I was also a technical training instructor for Comcast cable and I have to say you did a great job on your video, well done and very informative,
So fascinating to watch all these DIY countertop videos. We need a DIY government too.
After getting a quote for just replacing my laminate counter tops my sister told me about transformation s. They had the exact color I wanted. A lot of work doing it alone,but I couldn’t be happier with the outcome. The tutorial was great and I watched it many times. Big mess and the dispenser was not good. I just threw it by hand. I would do it again though. T. U. Irene
That's good to hear I hope my video help you out,, thanks for the comment
Yes, it is messy, the process takes about 3 days but SO WORTH IT !!! It looks beautiful and we saved a heap of money.
The countertops have held up great, no chips or cracking, and they still hold a shine.
I'm impressed. Great for a budget upgrade in the kitchen. Now that yellow 70's Formica countertop can look a hell of alot better. Just re-face the cabinet's and it will make a major difference.
I don't know how long it's been since you did this video, but I'll say, you did a superb job!!
If my Dad was still alive, he would be on this (as he would say) like "stink on s _. lol
That was MY DAD!!! Great JOB..........
At least your neighbors are actually living there and not some empty building awaiting squatters. Thanks for the video it's gonna be very helpful when the wife and I get started.
When I saw his braided leather belt, I could see he knew his stuff
Lol!
Lmao. I bet he also had the white New Balance sneakers on. Having said that, you did an amazing job on the counter top. Great stuff.
😂😂😂 I don't know why, but this had me creased.
😂😂😂😂
😆
I'm happy to hear about the great results. I'm buying a new house and the counters are very ugly. Thinking about doing this to my kitchen
yes, it comes with the spreader and everything you need except paint rollers, brushes and pan. If you are thinking of doing this? Make sure you sand the granules smooth but you won't get them as smooth as the sample peice they send in the kit, that's a joke! Don't apply the top coat heavy it will leave roller marks and they are hard to get out. Just apply multiple thin coats, let it dry at least 4 hours between coats. I think it's a great product, easy to apply with great results. Good luck!
Probably a stupid question but do you sand after each thin coat or is that not something you sand lol? It looks awesome & glad to hear it holds up very well!
Nice Job i was told about this from my brother in law he is a contractor up north and gives his customers choices on either buying the material ( counter tops already done) or doing it this way, he saves his cutomers a lot of money that way and gives him alot of work. He also says that the durability is great on this. I Subscribed to your channel and I am going to do mine this way, as my counter tops I estimated that just in materials will run me about close to 1000 dollars with labor it would cost another 500 so doing it this way I am going to save money big time I hope this does the trick and it should. The counter tops you have are the same as mine smooth white laminate. Keep up the good work and keep posting vids I had bought a fixer upper for our 1st home and the inside looks like its back from the 70's lol I need the modern look
we replaced our countertops 2 years ago using melamine board and this product. The results were excellent, the cost about 1/4 of formed countertop.
There were some learnings from doing it.... use all of the base coat, granules and topcoat. There is no need to skimp. When sanding the granules, watch for consistency, and likewise with the top coat.
The surface has stood up well, but I don't think it is as durable as Formica.
Dude it looks amazing thanks for be my guinea pig now I can try it on my kitchen without being afraid
You did a great job! The counters look wonderful, and the video is excellent. Kudos to you.
Hot pans have not done any damage, rough bottoms of plates and small appliances have not made any scratches and it still cleans easy and shines. You can find this product at several home improvement stores.
Wow, looks great - not a job I would ever do. You did a great job
Alex G ki
We used this in our rental property 6 years ago and it has been very durable. Love the video
I appreciate the comment, I haven't had any problem with staining, heat staining or chipping, I think for the money it's an awesome product for a diy project.
WichitaFixIt Can I use this on my old laminate countertops ?
I wish my hubby is that committed to diy. Well done you 👏
My hubby is a talented DIYer, but does not enjoy it. Over the years I have graduated from the researcher to the Hands on DIYer. Love the sense of accomplishment.
Steve you did a wonderful job showing me how to redo my counter tops. You are a very nice looking man as well. :)
Tammy Olson Hey Tammy, if you're HOT, I'll come do your counters. I'm better looking than Steve.
shut your mouth Roger! how dare you
steve is way hotter than you and you know it! unless you’re wearing slightly off from age white briefs with blown out elastic like steve you can’t even begin to compare
boobam We'll, I have to admit, I do mess my pants now and then, and sure I'm bald with buck teeth. But, the garbage lady at the refuse department told me I'm a good catch!
Great video. Thanks! I don't need this but it's the kind of instructional video I just love to watch. True DIY. :)
you done a beautiful job it looks amazing best wishes from LONDON England
Great vid! Thanks for the tip about cutting the sander to fit behind the sink!!
I hope the video helps, thanks for the comment, I have a lot more videos at Wichitafixit on TH-cam👍
@@wichitafixit So, I have a question. I have my counter tops prepped and ready to begin. I read (somewhere) that the application of the adhesive and chips can be done in smaller sections (I have a 'U' shaped kitchen}. How in the world would that work when you have to apply the adhesive AND the chips before moving on to the next section (i.e., SAME counter top, next 'section').... how does one keep the rolling of the 'next' section from picking up the chips from the previous area really puzzles me. So worried about the short drying time of the product, so thought smaller sections would help. Any advice?
no, I wanted to see if the consistency of the material would actually fill like a quarter inch Gap, now I found out that it will fill gaps up to about a half inch without breaking down or moving and no shrink.
Good job! I would think that you wouldn't want to place a hot pan on the surface just like you wouldn't have done so with the Formica that that was there. Looks great!
looks good. im gna get two kits & do my jeep. let u know how it turns out.
Wow! That looks amazing. I'm going to be remodeling a 1953 Mid Century Modern home. I can see how this product would works for a variety of applications. Including bath countertops and in laundry rooms or small tabletops. As I can't afford to remodel everything at once, this is a solution until I can do what I want. Affordable and looks great. Thanks for the how to video. I've subscribed!
Your video was excellent & the description as well.
Good job don't know if I can buy those products in Australia..
It’s been 7 years, how’s the countertop holding up? I’m just now viewing your video and I think I wanna do my countertop!
Thanks for the comment, they're holding up really well but the shine the starting to fade.
WichitaFixIt Thank you for your response!! Can’t wait to do my counters!
We did our counter tops in our boat 4 years ago. They still look great!
I had a comment about the material used, the material used is a kit that can be purchased at Home Depot or Lowe's.
WichitaFixIt n.
WichitaFixIt I have laminate and that "fake wood" in my parents kitchen would this work ?
Juliette Bonita Navarro whatever you put this product on it will stick to, as long as whatever you're putting it on is tight to the surface.
Juliette Bonita Navarro
WichitaFixIt does that spray thing u used to put the stones on come with the kit??? If not where did u get it and how much does it cost???
I'm about to start my counter tops with this stuff. Just finished roughing up the surface..
Good luck I'm sure you'll do fine.
@@wichitafixit the flakes are on.. now we wait 12 hours.
It takes any oil based product a good week before you don't have any order, and rust-oleum is no exception it will take a good week before the smell is totally eliminated from the house.
I painted my cabinets and put a Rust Oleum clear coat on them. That worked great too.
It can resist a lot of heat, I wouldn't take a pan from the fire and set it on the counter, it has held up great overall.
Thanks for the update.
Hi can u plz share the meterial used in the video
Mine reacted to the heat of a coffee maker and a hot plate a year after it was put on. Going with stone coat epoxy this time.
@@Xyzzzzzz1234 If you go with epoxy you'll find that you'll need to buy a tiny vial of this special protectant for the surface. I can't recall what the name is but I just remember it was expensive...like 75-90 bucks for 1 oz.
WOW thats fantastic.. what a look. Looks a new fitted kitchen.
Looks great. I'm thinking of doing this to my countertops. A before and after photo would be nice. Noticed your cabinets could use an updating, been reading about chalk painting as an easier means to paint cabinets. New paint and new hardware and your kitchen would look amazing! Thanks for posting, great job!
Wow!!! Looks like granite. Great tutorial. Thanks for your video.
I did this for a client a few years ago and they still look new and they are in a rental !
Wasn't sure at first but the end result looks excellent and no scull splitting music in the background!
I added an update video a couple months ago, so far it's been great.
What was the NAME of the TOP COAT you applied? Not all top coats are the same, or last the same, and I'm just curious what the name was.
Good price! For 200 bucks you are doing good to get the new laminate to do the job, plus the k-3 or mdf for the sub lay, labour. get a plumber to remove/replace sink, change outdated fixture/ drain parts, redo tile, drywall repairs before doing new tile etc. Good handyman product when working on a thin budget. Looks good.
Good job man! looked good, I do granite and for 200 dollars ive seen people spends Way more on stuff that would scratch easier or just as easy so id be happy with it and am thinking about doing it!
GREAT JOB.... I WAS ONTHE FENCE ABOUT DOING THIS BUT AFTER SEEING YOUR SUCCESS, I'M GOING TO GO AHEAD WITH THIS PROJECT.... GREAT VIDEO AS WELL.
Great video. Going to tackle this myself tomorrow, and feel much more comfortable having watched this. Glad to hear that it's holding up, I was a little unsure about the durability. Thanks!
I might live in the UK but you turned your kitchen into a work of art! Good Job.
You didnt pop the sink out?
If the sink ever has to come out for some reason you might crack the new finish around the sink edge.
Easier to get in small space too
Yep it happened to me had to remove sink for disposal that went bad and faucet and chips come up with the sink. I recommend to people if they have to remove sink score it with a sharp knife blade real good before removing sink with this product. Just sharing lessons learned 😄🙏😎
I express my thanks for the tutorial sir, I may purchase this product since the color is beautiful.
the reason I didn't take the sink out is I wanted to see if it would make a good seal and fill a gap around the sink, it worked out fine and hasn't chipped or cracked, but I would recommend removing the sink.
Thank you for the video! I am just starting my countertops. I got them almost all sanded but need to remove the sink. It turned out really good!
Several years ago my mother left her home and moved to a senior's residence. I did a number of minor renos to prepare the house for sale. Kitchen counters were laminate in good condition, but out of style colour and pattern, so I did the Rust-o-leum CounterTop Transformation. It was an older Rust-o-leum system that was quite a labourious task. Luckily, mom wasn't in the house and the kitchen wasn't in use. A lot of fumes and a very messy process. The final clear coat was a 2-part epoxy that had to be poured on and leveled. I was very pleased with the final result, but it did take almost a week to complete the process and the kitchen would have been unusable throughout the process.
This system is a little more updated, it didn't have the fumes and the process didn't take nearly as long from start to finish, But the top coat is oil base it did have a smell, The countertops have held up well And I think it was a pretty good purchase overall, Thanks for the comment, Check out some of my other videos at Wichitafixit on youtube
The countertops have been wet many many times, the top coat sealant prevents any moisture from penetrating and makes the surface rock hard.
how long would u say it takes for the smell to get out of the house? We painted with rustoleum 2 days ago and the fumes from the paint are still extremely potent. have Windows open with fans running. just wondering if it takes a couple weeks for the smell to dissipate?
+Katlin Crock someone said a good wwek
+Katlin Crock MONTHS !
+TRICK-OR TREAT took about 2 weeks for the fume smell to be gone. Had to leave the Windows open the whole time. Definitely not a job to do in the winter. seems to dry faster in warmer temperature (above 70-75 degrees). once it was completely dry and set the smell disparated pretty fast. Also, the paint chips pretty easily once fully dried. Had to repaint a few spots because a cup fell on the counter.
it's beautiful. you did a great job. any other colors?
Yes, it comes in four different colors.
Well first of all this product isn't Concrete, it's been on many surfaces for more than 2 years and hasn't chipped or cracked, it's a very good product and reasonably priced! as far as it being smooth it will be as smooth as you want it to be as you sand, the surface isn't porous it's almost as smooth as Formica with the top seal coat.
Fatmagul espanol
does it come in other colors like a white quartz look with the glitter???
WichitaFixIt ii
You did a nice job. Thank you for reporting on the durability over time.
Thank you for the comment
would replacing the countertop not be easier and cheaper?
keith sheridan - maybe not if you are only holding off from a full remodel. I can see myself making this change versus have the tops fully replaced on cabinets I wanted to replace.
Since 2013 how does the counter top look now. Great video! Think I'm going to give it a try in my kitchen.
it's still holding up strong, no cracks or chips, well worth the money!
WichitaFixIt That's great to know. I may look into this. Thanks for posting this video.
It is around $259. and there's a smaller kit for like $159.
That's a great job and looks amazing. You are being modest when you say "it turned out *pretty good*" lol .. Excellent video, thanks!
Gorguruga I appreciate the comment I hope it helps with any DIY projects you may tackle.
I call it smooth wavy and that is how it's supposed to be, you may be able to put several more top coats on and lose some of that but I didn't have enough top coat material, and you can't buy just the top coat.
WichitaFixIt you can buy just the top coat. you just have to have a little knowledge of urethane and polyurethane. which you clearly do not
Well, give us some knowledge.
Dion Rowsell that's good to know preciate the info.
WichitaFixIt saw
Hablas español? Me gusto mucho tu video, a mi se me acaba de quemar una mesada y se hicieron globitos en la lamina de plastico, esto puede tener solución?
Great job; thank you for sharing this project with us!
Does it look like a garage floor? When you're actually standing next to it?
Thank you for such an informative video. Straight to the punch and even your own useful tips and tricks. I just bought this kit in Java Stone and didn't realize it only came with a DVD... I found your video looking for How-To and I'm so happy I did. I applied the chips yesterday and am now about to sand and top coat. I can't wait to see how it turns out!
I am trying to re-spray my rusted interior microwave oven. I was told my the sales agent at Lowes, this product works great with no side effect on food or high heat.
Any feedback welcome.
Thanks for sharing. A really nice job. I was curious about that countertop treatment. It was nice to see the whole process. You did a great job discussing the product and aiming the camera. I hope you give a status update on the durability/longevity of the product. Oh yeah,the black caulk was a classy touch. It really brought the whole look together.Keep the shows coming.
Thank You
Can I use this on my old laminate countertop?
Omg.... jr really said “you gotta really get in there and dig into that crack”!!!
Very good job; enjoyed watching and learning. Planning to do a similar refinishing a laminate counter top in the laundry room of our home.
the countertop transformation was applied to formica countertops, the formica was not coming loose or any other problems with it other than it was ugly and time to do something different!
Now - being 3 years later - does it still look good?
Looks great how durable is it
This product is very durable.
The only part of the process that really has any odor is the top coat, but I didn't think it was very bad.
How long did the odor last ?
Im thinking about doing this. It looks really good. Was concerned with it holding up. Thanks for doing this.
I would have pulled the sink and done all the sanding before masking it off
Yup, me too.
UtwoBed, why?
Tiffany Stefanovic ------- If you're looking to do this and don't understand the purpose, I'm going to explain it and how to do it yourself because it is incredibly simple, and I like helping people. I wrote a lot just to cover every possibility, but it is not difficult or labor intensive.
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There will be an unattractive, visible edge between the sink lip and countertop that may crack or chip if you don't lift the sink. If the sink moves even a fraction of an inch it will show, and that possibility is high considering the ever changing moisture in the area. Most sinks are not held down very tightly. If you open the cabinet doors and look upward at the bottom of the sink you'll find the lip is held by clamps set by screws or bolts. They usually aren't difficult to get to or difficult to remove because the sink is already held down by gravity, so the original installer doesn't need a lot of force to hold it still. You may need a long screwdriver or socket extension. YOU PROBABLY WON'T HAVE TO PULL THE ENTIRE SINK. That's the best part of all this. The water lines are usually somewhat forgiving and move also, especially if they are flexible hoses. The drain is also somewhat flexible most of the time. All you need is to raise the sink enough to keep it out of the way and prepare the surface underneath the lip of the sink itself....... That means you can get by with raising it about an inch off the counter. Put some blocks or something in the cabinet or area under the sink and lift the entire thing supporting it by the bottoms of the sink itself, not the water or drain lines. Just let those move with the sink. If you have a hydraulic jack or car jack they really make it easy. It's worth going to your vehicle to get it unless you know someone like me that has several hydraulic jacks. You can raise the sink without having to stay underneath it. Just watch your lines while you raise it slowly.
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If there is a lot of area laterally between the top edge of the counter cutout and the lip of the sink, you might be able to brace it there if necessary. Just don't use something so wide that you defeat the purpose. You may have an area that wants to tilt over onto the countertop and a small wedge at the counter may be necessary. I would avoid that and brace it from underneath if it were mine. I might take a stick or sticks and cut it to size so that one end of the stick supports the bottom lip of the sink and the other end braces at the floor. I would use the sticks or something that serves the purpose only if additional support was needed in an area. If it does tilt, it will usually happen at the back edge where the faucet is located.
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Trust me, this so simple even for a complete novice. If the rare event occurs that the lines can't give a little and move with the sink, which will almost certainly NOT be the case, you will have to disconnect them and pull the sink up from there or completely out if you wish, but try disconnecting the drain above the P-trap first. I'll tell you more about this later, but I always loosen the compression fitting above the P-trap yet never take it completely apart. That's almost always the only disassembly needed. Avoid disassembly of the two water lines, but if it's necessary just take a crescent wrench, open ended wrench, or whatever is appropriate to unthread the lines. They are normally between a 3/8 and 1/2 nut. You only have two water lines to pull and one drain. If you must pull the water lines, turn off the shutoff valves under the sink so you won't have to disconnect the entire water main to the home. They are usually found where the water lines come into and through the floor or back wall. Try to move the sink a little before disconnecting water lines. Even copper lines often move just enough, especially if they come in vertically through the floor, to avoid complete removal, but do not kink them. If they are flexible or braided lines, just trust me, they'll move. Don't disconnect them if they have even a little slack in the line. If you have to reassemble metal lines, get a roll of teflon tape. It's super cheap. Wrap the male thread twice in a clockwise direction. Then rethread and tighten well. If they leak still, just scratch that and go get flexible lines from the hardware store. They are cheap, easier to work with, rarely leak or cause problems, withstand movement, are very easy to install, and don't need teflon tape most of the time because the connections are plastic or have a rubber washer inside that compresses and seals it shut. If you ever have to replace a water line, flexible braided lines and plastic lines almost never leak and they are so, so, so easy to use that a complete novice has no problem. They don't even need to be super tight. Some of them have plastic connections with wings on them to hand tighten because that's sufficient. They are far superior to metal when making a quick connect that doesn't leak. I have replaced copper lines that were such a pain that I got tired of it and resorted to braided lines. I always give them a bit more than hand tightens, but just barely. These are even found at Wal Mart
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You don't need to disassemble the drain at every connection, just the main. There is a U shaped part of the drain called a P-trap. That's usually a good place to disconnect. Disconnect above the P-trap but not at the sink itself. There is a compression fitting between the sink and P- trap. Loosen that. The pipe coming from the sink slides down into that, so when you raise the sink it will likely stay in the drain line and you don't have to pull it all apart. That U shape serves multiple purposes. It catches items, like dropped rings, and prevents them from going completely down the drain. It also holds water that prevents dangerous methane gasses and odors from coming back up and into the home. Often times these are easily removed by someone with strong hands, but if not it can be removed with a large pair of channel locks (commonly mistakenly called pliers), or with other tools. A lot of people leave a large wrench that came with the sink or garbage disposal nearby. By the way, if you have a garbage disposal, they also have a tool most people leave under the sink. If your disposal clogs up, you can take the tool and insert it into the bottom of the disposal and manually turn it back and forth to break the clog loose without ever getting your hands dirty. There is also a circuit breaker on the bottom of the disposal that flips when it binds up. Just get the clog out and push the button (usually red button) on the disposal and you're good to go.
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If you don't want to do all this, the op mentioned lifting the sink before sanding. That's even easier because you can lift one edge at a time. That will assure that the entire area is properly prepped so adhesion doesn't fail near the edge and the sink doesn't take damage or have to be avoided or otherwise worked around tediously. If you have enough depth on the lip of the sink you can run a smooth bead of silicone over the edge between the counter and sink. Most people use clear silicone, but there are other colors that work better in some situations. The silicone will hide the vulnerable edge created and flex, but it can take away from the attractiveness. However, I have seen a clean bead actually help, but that's mostly at inside edges and corners of counter tops or kitchen and bathroom areas that need to be water tight or just don't look good otherwise. Some people put a bead around sinks to prevent water from creeping underneath the lip, but I prefer a clean edge. I may lay a thick bead under the lip before installing the sink and letting the excess squeeze out. Then I clean the excess and call it done.
Wow. Makes sense. Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed explanation.
I probably would of too. But then again in the end it looks just as good.
So crazy, I just bought a house today. I have the exact same cabinet handles. Nice video.
it's about $250 to do 50 square feet which is pretty reasonable compared to anything else, as far as what you have on the surface now I would rough it up with the sanding pad in the kit, as long as the paint is tight to the countertop you should have any problem.
Im just about to do something with my Kitchen worktops / counter tops but for a small amount more money I could buy new ones. That is a very nice job done though and it looks great.
you will do fine, vacuum vacuum vacuum make sure the surface is clean before you put the top coat on!
WichitaFixIt
Very helpful. Thank you....but I would like to know how durable it turns out to be.
Why would you not pull your sink? I think your going to get some kind of line around your sink when your done.
Trying this out tomorrow. Got the dark black granite and excited to see how it comes out. Really appreciated your tutorial. Thanks!
Dig in the crack really good..... 😃 Will do sir...
If my current countertop is one piece with the backsplash, and I want to replace the backsplash with mosaic tiles; should I pull the old laminate off the entire counter and wall or just cut the laminate as close to the wall as possible and remove that part from the wall?
i could imagine my dad doing this and the hell he would put us trough.
Karpens16 😂😂😂😂
That was my mom whenever she cooked a special dinner lol 😘 👩
Oh my ... That was awsome. i am a dad and I do just that. 😂
Hey, are you my daughter?
nice job the only thing im missing is the sand block ,it have any numeric grit? like 220 or so ? or 1 block fit all ,another thing what type or dark prime you use? or everything come in the box.
I like the way you dig in that crack @2:34
I also like the way he made it feel good in the crack.
what size is the sink countertop and cabinets?
Rust-Oleum has a product for tile, it looks really nice it's a smoother type product though.
You did a fabulous job, looks great.