Kia Part 7: Modified Head Bolt Stripped Thread Repair Attempt: Top Inserts Won't Work
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Here's my expensive learning with aluminum blocks and blown head gaskets: IF YOU HAVE BLOWN HEAD GASKETS, YOU WILL ALSO HAVE STRIPPED HEAD BOLT THREADS that you won't realize until you attempt to torque down the heads with Torque To Yield Head Bolts.
You saw it happen in Part 5. These engines are just not meant to be repaired. If they were they would have put inserts in when they were built like everything aluminum in Aviation.
I was attempting to do a less expensive repair based on some misleading info I came across by tapping and putting inserts at the top of the block. It won't work. There's not enough wall thickness. You have to use the expense insert method placing the inserts deep down in the block.
When the head gaskets blow, unless the engine has under 100K or low 100K miles, when adding the cost of the OEM approved Insert Kit, Gaskets, and other parts and materials, time to do the whole job, time to do the heads etc, it's not worth repairing it.
Im working on a
2016 kia cadenza 3.3
Found some really high-quality repair kit from NS300L. The kit is $400 bucks and allows you to put OEM Cylinder Head Bolts back in with the specified Torque/degrees. The car has been running well, and there are no oil/coolant leaks!
Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad that kit worked out for you and most importantly, no leaks!
Mine was a high mileage basket case so I wanted to see if an alternative rouge method would work. I had looked at factory approved insert kits for $400-$600 and just wasn't going to spend that much on a one use tool that no one else wants when you're done with on a 250,000 mile engine.
I'm reasonably sure tapping the top would have worked if the block had thicker walls enabling me to drill and tap out to get the full bite on the insert. Factory hole was too big for the minimum tap diameter so it just couldn't get the bite it needed. Had nothing to loose on mine so it was worth trying it.
Since yours is running good and it's a 2016, might be a good time to sell it before it racks up more miles and goes down in value. Either that or just drive it till the wheels fall off . ;-)
I went through the same thing on my moms car. Kia 3.3. Went to torque the head bolts and they stripped. I used regular heli coils. They all torqued except one by the timing cover. I was torquing it down but i felt like it wasnt going to get to torque with out stripping. So i just left it. The way the timing cover bolts to the head, i think that helps hold the head down. Shes put around 15000 miles on it so far and its doing good knock on wood.
I had to pull the intake back off recently because the oil sending unit went bad and was leaking oil. It seemed like it was a rear main seal but its not. Its the oil sending unit. I would recommend replacing yours before putting it all back together.
I think these head bolts stripping should be a recall. Ive never had that problem on any other car.
Hi. Thanks for the comment, and glad your repair is holding up. I'm an aircraft mechanic. Everything in Aviation is aluminum and also has steel inserts that are very much like Heli-Coils to start with. Shame on all these auto manufacturers as they jam steel bolts into soft aluminum. They all do it. Even Chevy LS Motors.
I was trying this as an experiment as I just wasn't' going to spend over $500 to $600 for a one use kit from Time-Sert. The size of the existing unthreaded hole and the thickness of the water jacket and the available inserts to try this just won't work. I did find another Kit from Hon Solutions for much less that I like better, that I'm considering. Actually spoke to the guy that developed it. The kia is in "time out" in the mean time. I made a few other videos on it including "Aluminum Blocks Suck".
I’m in the same boat with a 2015 Hyundai genesis coupe.
I heard you speak about the knock sensor and timing chains for replacement ,
Can you please tell me, sir, what you would recommend also replacing well in there because I really haven’t got any other choice but to try some inserts . I thank you in advance and good luck with your car.
Hi Jeremy. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. I was experimenting with a cheaper alternative trying some inserts at the top, but the minor diameter was already too large so the cross sectional thread bite wasn't enough and it pulled/twisted some of the inserts if you watched my other videos in the series. The Time-Sert kit to redo the factory threads is over $500, which to me just seems ridiculous, so tried the experiment with top of block deck inserts. I might drill those out and experiment with EZ-Lock inserts at the top which will work with the size hole I have and standard sized taps so it's super cheap, but they're only 1/2 long, and stacking them is kind of tricky. I'm looking at another insert kit to repair the factory threads deep in the block by Hunsoltions.com. There are a number of TH-cam videos of people using that kit. I haven't called them yet for a price or looked on line for a used kit. If it's under $250 then I'll justify that. They have a guide block for the drill and tap which honestly I could make. For that matter a tap and drill bit can have a bolt welded on if you can do it square to extend it to make your own kit to repair the factory threads. If your 2015 doesn't have a lot of miles on it and you need the vehicle then it makes sense to spend the money for the proper kit. Mine is a 2006 w/ 250,000 miles and while I'd like to have it running, I don't necessarily need it so am stubbornly experimenting with cheaper solutions.
As for the chains and knock sensors, I'd recommend doing the knock sensors since they're buried in the block. Chains stretch a bit, but the tensioners keep them tight. It's the rails that get worn and need replacing. It's a judgement call, but the chains generally don't break, and replacing chains, rails and tensioners is $300-$500. If I go forward, I', just replacing tensioners and rails. The money not spent on chains I'd put towards all the other sensors on the top end that are now exposed with it torn apart like Cam, Crank and temp sensors. Get all your parts from RockAuto or PartsGeek. It's Hundreds cheaper than local parts houses. Get it running, get 1,000 miles on it, rub a little grime back on it and sell it. wink wink