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Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. You could re-sleave, but there's nothing special about an 80's 302. It's labor intensive, and not many shops around these days that can do it. Cheaper/easier to find another block. If it was an old Chrysler 392 Hemi or Chevy 348 Olds 350 etc you'd sleeve it. These blocks are everywhere. Thanks again for watching and asking.

Hi. Ya, I initially saw that, and it makes sense they would have that set up like that especially from a speedy step during installation like those pesky spring clip quick connects for the lines. The bottom pan on this one was sealed or stuck and didn't look like it was going to come apart w/o a fight and saw I could get in from the top as that was barely glued. Maybe whoever was on the line the day this was built got a bit busy with the glue and glued the bottom on too. LOL Anyhow thanks for the tip that could save others some time. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. This is one of my first videos and both this and Part 2 are amongst my Top 10 highest viewed videos. Thanks again.

Hi. Thanks for watching. For right now I'll call it the "Parking Brake" or "Emergency Brake Actuator Lever". I'll look and see if I can find an IPB (Illustrated Parts Breakdown) to confirm the name. These vehicles generally refer it as an Emergency Brake. Honestly, that part is probably made of "unobtainium" as in you won't find it as a new or replacement part and will probably have to scour the junkyards. Keep in mind that if this is a 80's Ford F150 you're doing, there are two sizes of rear drums, 10 and 11". That lever may be different between the two sizes.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 already been down the 10inch 11th road I’m mailing 10inch drums back today. Why do you reckon they made two different sizes?

Hi. Not sure. Might have been an option for towing. Somewhere I have an old Ford Brochure that might list it. Remember you have 11" rear Drums when you go to do your front disk brakes. They have two different front calipers that depend on what size rear drums you have. Anyhow if you follow my video you'll have great brakes, but you need to get that lever in there. If you have the one for the other side google that part number. The PN for the one you're missing is probably one number off to give you something to start searching for on line and you'll stumble into it. Some on Ebay probably has a loaded Backing Plate with it in there. If it's an 80's truck it will start with E. They used the same brakes for decades so it could start with a D from the 70's. Mine's an 83, so specific 83 parts on mine will be E3. They started with the letter A in the 40's and each Decade goes up a Letter.

Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it was helpful.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. The symptoms are leaning in that direction after going through the fuel pumps unless of course the 12V to the pumps is dropping out due to corrosion or a relay letting go. Getting back to the coil, that is a typical symptom of a weak/failing coil breaking down, and it's quick to rule out. A friend of mine with a late 80's (might be 88) F150 was experiencing similar intermittent symptoms and had been through the fuel system watched this video and scratched his chin with a Hmm, swapped out the coil, and got rid of the problem. Again can't say for sure your problem is the coil (could be ECM) but it's cheap enough and quick enough to try to either fix it or rule it out. I by training generally don't shotgun try things hoping to fix it. I measure, inspect, determine the cause, then replace or resolve whatever it is. There are instances though when a symptom is so intermittent or specific that w/o having fuel pressure gauges, HV probes measuring coil output, scopes reading ignition signals while under actual use (most of which is impractical) that you have to resort to "trying something" that could reasonably be the cause. Let me know.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. That's sounding more like air/fuel mixture with the carb which when cold is controlled by the choke. Couls also be a vacuum leak after the throttle valve. If it smooths out cupping your hand over the carb, there's a vacuum leak. Weak will generally start ok-ish, although the one I showed was getting slow to start. If the bike is ok once it warms up, it's mixture. The weak coil will drop out consistently at the same speed/rpm under load and come back if you let off.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thank u sir for the reply.will check all once again

Hi again. Not exactly sure, but suspect something like that. I think it's frequency related which affects the "Reactance". Higher RPM = Higher Frequency. An automotive coil is actually a Step Up transformer with a Primary and a Secondary and is a Reactive Component with "Reactance" (resistance that's only present when subjected to AC) which varies with frequency: XL=2piFL. XL is Inductive Reactance, pi = 3.14, F= Frequency, and L=Inductance measured in Henries. From the formula you see that Reactance is directly proportional to Frequency in an Inductor (Indirectly in a Capacitor). AC is simulated in an automobile with a pulsing DC. When the DC is applied, and then removed, the back EMF induces a voltage in the secondary which has more windings greatly stepping up the voltage. If the insulation on the windings which is a thin chemical coating breaks down, it shorts between windings while operating. The coil will ohm out ok since the Ohmmeter is applying very low DC. The resistance range to check a coil, both primary and secondary is wide. Unless the coil is open or shorted checking it with an ohmmeter is not conclusive. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment.

Hi. I think you're referring to how the spark looked. Ya on camera after I played it back they look the same which was disappointing. In person directly viewing there was a noticeable difference, but in the end one coil is good, and the other breaks down. Fun Fact: As far as what your eye vs a cell phone camera sees, did you know you can use the camera to tell if a Remote Control is working? Look through your camera screen while pointing the remote at it with a button pushed. If the remote is working you'll see quick faint light pulses. Must be frame rate etc. Can't see it with the naked eye. Thanks for watching. Peace.

Hi. You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. I ran a restoration shop so it drum brakes all day every day. They're very simple and yet misunderstood. The wheel cylinders and not bleeding your brakes are the Achillies Heel of drum brakes. Need to bleed them at least once a year, even more if it sits to get the moisture out. DOT 3 fluid retains moisture. Wheel cylinders are generally the lowest spot which is where water goes just like in oil/gas. The water displaces the brake fluid and shrinks the rubber cups in the wheel cylinders and they leak. Once that happens it drips down inside the drum and saturates the shoes which will them fuse themselves to the drums and lock the wheels. Take a look at the video I did on my Olds Toronado and what happens and how to get out of that situation. Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. It was a great event. Hope to be doing it again soon. They have another similar one planned for Nov 2nd. Not sure if I can make that one, but will aim for next Spring if they do it again. Did the trip in my 74 Olds Cutlass on Route 66 starting in Oklahoma with the whole trip originating from Atlanta. If interested, I have many several videos on the trip if you go to my channel home. Still more to edit and load. Hoping to have my 66 Olds Toronado finished for the 100th Anniversary of Route 66 and 250th USA Anniversary in 2026. Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching. Late 70's - early 80's Transitional Period, Cast Iron Engine, SAE. If it was the engine or directly bolted to the engine, SAE. If it bolted to something that bolts to the Engine, Metric. Trans, Metric, Engine to Trans SAE. Trans to Mount SAE. Rear End SAE. Anything on the body or bolts to the body, Metric. Once engines switched to Aluminum, Metric. I worked in aviation, and everything, even if made in Europe was SAE. That might have changed now. IDK. No longer in that industry and relieved not to be as it's just not fun any more. Over 7/8 or maybe an inch, Metric and SAE wrench sizes are the same, but very few bolts are that big. Factory bolts that have a raised rim around the head from that mixed era are quite often Metric. Different Foreign manufacturers might use all Odd or All Even Metric sizes, so 13, 15, 17, 19 etc MM, or 10, 12,14 etc while some use every damn size 10,11,12,13,14 etc. Used to be able to fix 90% of everything with just 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, not anymore, plus better have all the Torx, and Allen sizes.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Is this an older ignition system that uses an External Resistor? What is the Key Position when you measure at the coil? Older systems prior to HEI Electronic Ignition put 12VDC across the Coil Primary with the key turned all the way to Start/Crank with the Starter Engaged. Once you bring the Key back to Run, the Voltage at the Coil is approximately 9VDC, so if you're measuring at the Coil with the Key in Run it would Normally read 9 VDC. What is the Year/Make/Model/Engine? What type of ignition? Points or Electronic? When you have no High Voltage Spark out, first thing to check is that you have a pulsing 12VDC in to the Coil. The Coil is a Step Up Transformer which requires an Alternating Current (AC) going in to function. Collapsing Felds in the Primary induce a Magnetic Field into the secondary which has more windings and steps it up over 20KV. Since a Car is DC, a pulsing DC (On/Off) in the primary as the result of Points opening and closing or a magnetic pickup into a control module produce a pulsing DC from the Distributor to the Coil. If you have points, its easy to visually (and Audibly) test this. With Cap off and Coil output grounded grab the rotor and rotate wiggle it back and forth. IT will only move a little against the advance. If the Distributor cam is close enough to allow the points to open and close, and the points are properly gapped you'll see and hear a little crackle when they open. With electronic you wont see anything, in the Dist, but will hear a pop and see a spark if you have the coil wire positioned close to the manifold. Let me know what you have and the results of what you try.

@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thanks for replying, my car is a 1984 rover sd1 2300. With the key turned fully but not turning over im getting 9 volt I've check for a spark but nothing I thought was the ignition coil so bought a new one but still nothing coming from coil even thought 9 volts to it so I'm kinda stumped

That car has Electronic Ignition, so the Ignition Module in the Distributor is what creates pulses to the coil. It's also a Lucas Electric which on it's best day is the worst system. I'm assuming that by 84 they were running Negative Ground. Lucas (British Cars) ran a Positive Ground possibly into the 70's. The Coil with the Key on puts a steady hot to the Pos side. You should be reading from the Pos side of the Coil to the Intake or some unpainted ground on the Engine. Don't read across the coil. In Run the Hot side of the coil would typically read 9VDC if it has an external Resistor. The Neg Side of the Coil is what get's the make/break pulse from the ignition module in the Distributor. It's highly likely that the Ignition Control Module in the distributor is bad. I can't guarantee it w/o directly troubleshooting it. There may be info online as to how to ohm out and check the module to confirm it's bad. You'll have to order that module on line. No one will have that locally.

Hi. Thanks for watching. I'll have to see if I still have that bad coil. Generally I have found that unless the windings are either shorted or open, that ohming it out is not a definitive check. The resistance range for an acceptable coil is wide and for the primary very low ohms. It lets you know you have a ratio of resistance from primary to secondary and that it will step it up. If it's breaking down under higher rpm it will still Ohm out ok and have you chasing fuel problems that aren't there. I'll see if I still have it and if so I'll put the readings in a subsequent comment. Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment.

Hi. Thanks for watching. Very possible. Takes seconds to jump another one in to see. See if you can find one in junk yard for $5. New ones are $30. If it's HEI Electronic Ignition you'll need that type of coil. If it's points, a lower output coil, which in 2024 you're not going to find in a junkyard. Since you said it's running rich it's likely the fuel pump is putting out too much pressure. Measure it. Should be 5 - 6 PSI. Anything over is too much for the needle/float. I have numerous videos on this. Go to my channel home and you'll find them. Let me know.

Hi. Not sure why you would think that, but if I still have it, if you pay the shipping I'll send it you and you can see for yourself. ;-) It will start breaking down around 20 mph before the trans shifts to 2nd.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad it helped.

Hi. Thanks for watching and takin the time to comment. Wow! That's an awesome story. So glad you were able to find the actual one your parents originally had and get it back. That's so cool. I see you've commented on Part 3, so go to my channel home and find the first two videos in the series which will be right before this one. Those will take you through the re-capping which you'll have to do, and quite a few of the old carbon resistors will have changed in value and need replacement. The new resistors and capacitors will be much smaller, but if you've ordered the correct values (ohms and wattage on the resistors and microfarads and working voltage on the caps) go ahead and put them in. I didn't do the silver-mica caps that are built into the IF cans as they're so delicate and it's a lot of work. The radio does drift, so it does need them, but for now I live with retuning it every so often. You'll need some control cleaner for the pots like De-oxit. Get a schematic. I did mine with a "Sort Of" schematic I did screen shots of small pics I found on line and got by with it, but having the actual Service Manual will make it much easier. I'll find the contact info for where to get the manual and put it in a follow up comment. It might be in the comments for series I did on the Capehart Panamuse which was my other grandmother's radio. I still have the turn table to do in the Stromberg and the Capehart so there'll be videos on that at some point. Anyhow, keep me posted, and if you have any questions, let me know here in the comments and I'll do my best to help you out.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 I have seen the other videos already, and I sure do thank you for the help!! Let you know!

ok, cool. I sourced most of my parts (caps/resistors/tubes) from Tube Depot and Digi-Key and have all the part numbers. It would be brutal to type them all into the comments. Just for security I don't post my email in the comments as it's my full name, but if your TH-cam handle has an email, I'll take pics of the invoices and send them to you, or if you have an anonymous email you can post it here. I actually need different caps for the .01 mfd @600VDC. Thought I got the ones that were shielded on one end and they're not, but just so I can keep track of what end should be shielded, especially for coupling, I put a fake Sharpie stripe on what should be the shielded end. Make sure and get the Orange Drops that are shielded on one end and check them with a scope. They'll show all the ambient noise one way and not the other. Turns out the stripe they put on them is not always and quite often on the wrong end. Mr Carlson's Lab (dude is next level) has a good video on this. I'd replace the power cord with a polarized cord and have Neutral going to ground so you don't have to rely/worry about the infamous Death Cap.

You better keep the Mrs happy. There's 6 parts to this video series. If on a budget (and who isn't) watch them all, follow my advice and you'll have a great running engine. Your tolerances will let you know if you can rebuild w/o machine work like boring it. If even one cylinder bore taper is too much and out of spec, you'll need to bore it, but if it has to go past .040 over stock, find another block. I built that engine 2 years ago and drive it every day. Just got back from an 800 mile round trip enjoying the AC I put in and the transmission I built, all with zero issues. The AC and Transmissions are also videos on my channel. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Let me know how it goes.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes indeed there is some mysterious design or build flaw with these old 70's Kenwoods which in itself doesn't make sense as they are a text book design of how to build and bias a push pull transistor amp. I went to a technical high school for electronics in the late 70's and we built and tested amps in class that were essentially the same. People would bring us these to work on that were new at the time, like a year old to fix for the same problem. They always did this from the time they were new. Always only one channel and usually the right. Your 3500 I'm sure is similar to mine just w/o the VU Meter's which is the primary reason I like mine when it's not blowing a transistor. Someone gave me mine because it was dead. I'm like "oh boy, I can fix this in 5 minutes". lol It had bad diode in the power supply and a bad transistor. For mine, it's Q20, the NPN of the Push Pull in the right channel which is a pre driver to Q24 the final PNP output driver of the right channel to the speaker. When Q20 goes it also takes out two 4 amp fuses in the power supply. It also always burns up R104 which is directly between the emitter of Q20 and the base of the final output Q24. I found a post in a forum from years ago discussing having to run the bias adjusting pot all the way to the end to set it properly and pointed out that one of the resistors is a different value than on the schematic, so the guy changed it and now had better range on the adjustment. I tried that and it wouldn't work. After I rebuilt the channel and power supply regulators, bridge diodes, caps, zener diodes I was able to get the bias to set properly with good range on the pot. This video that you watched I think is the First of Three I made over time. Go to my channel and poke around and you'll find several more that in each one a bit more is revealed. In the last one as this kept randomly happening I for the most part rebuilt the channel and most of the power supply. Used it every day and accidently left it on for 2 weeks while I was out of town and it was ok. Ironically though after 18 months it did it again just the other day and blew Q20. Like yourself I was actively listening and could hear it distort before it blew. Grrr! Keep me posted. I'll be going back into mine (pointlessly) again sometime. Grrr again lol.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Was the coil the whole problem with the lack of power and plugs fouling?

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 yes how are u I do believe the coil is the cause for spark plugs fouling everyday also the car lights goes from bright to dim when rpm drops to 800 rpm and goes bright when idling at 1000 rpm I believe the alternator is also bad the spark plugs will smell like fuel on it when coil is bad and loss of power also misfire

ah, the plot thickens. With these other symptoms it sounds more like the charging system is the root cause. The coil is actually a transformer that steps up the pulsing input which simulates an AC voltage from 12V to 20,000 and up to jump the gap in the plugs. If input drops, output drops proportionally with a weaker spark that will not jump the plug gap. The battery is used to start the engine. After it's running the alternator takes over. If the alternator is self exciting and functioning properly you can take the pos cable off the battery while it's running and the engine will keep running. Check your voltage with it running. Right after the engine starts and for some time after as it recharges the battery from the stress of starting, you should have 14.2 VDC at the battery. As the battery charges, the voltage will drop to 13 or so, but should always be over 12.6. Each cell is 2.1Volts. Check the running voltage first. There are other things to consider, but first rule out or otherwise fix the charging system if it is indeed not putting out the required voltage.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thank u for your advice i will replace alternator and coil i think it should run better after that

You should check the voltage while it's running with a voltmeter as I described above. Takes less 5 seconds. No point replacing the alternator if it's good. Let me know. Curious to find out the cause.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. The quick answer to your question regarding steps 3 & 4 is Absolutely YES. These are Torque To Yield bolts (TTY). They have to be new. You can NOT Reuse the original Head Bolts which have already been Torqued to their yield. These are torqued in degrees of rotation, not in Ft Lbs or Newton Meters. You won't find any torque specs for the head bolts for that reason. The problem with all aluminum block engines is the built in obsolescence of not designing and building the engine with steel inserts in the head bolt threads in the block. These were meant to be built once. Putting the head bolts back in is like a hot knife through butter and just destroys the threads in the block. The threads will strip. It's inevitable. A very expensive insert kit ($500) has been developed for every aluminum block engine out there for this reason. There's one or two more parts to this series where I tried a rouge alternative repair that while a great idea, failed miserably. The final video in the series has me junking the van for $500. Honestly if you find yourself in this situation, just junk it. The threads are going to strip. Count on it, even if it's the last one it would be as bad if they all did. You have to put inserts way down in the hole of each bolt which would take at least a full day. Then the chances of oil and coolant leaks is very high. It's just not worth the time and money to fix a high miles Kia (or anything). They only make any engine for a few years and then totally redesign them and they're not backwards compatible. You couldn't put a newer next gen engine in it's place.

What should I do if I forgot to mark the timing chain?

Hi. Since this is part 5 you're commenting on watch the parts 1 through 4 of my video series on this. Go to my Channel Home and all the videos for this will be together. I might even have a play list of them. Somewhere in there, probably the earliest ones before I take the heads off I show the timing marks on the cam sprockets. Somewhere in there in the comments for one of them I took someone with no experience through this to the point of getting it running. I'll hunt through the comments and see if I can find that as all this is explained.

Hi. Thanks for watching and takin the time to comment. I have I think 6 videos on this Kia issue including an "alternative" stripped head bolt modification that just didn't work. Great idea. Just didn't work. In the end I junked it. It's just not worth fixing a 250,000 mile 2006 Kia with an obsolete engine. Kia/Hyundi makes an engine for just a few years and replaces it with a new design that's not backwards (or forwards) compatible. One of my videos in this series, might even be this one helped a beginner DIYer do their timing chains. Through the comment section we messaged back and forth and he managed to get the chains and tensioners replaced and the engine running again.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. No, did not have to remove the mount. Was prepared to, but sized up the job and saw that I could access all bolts and fittings either before or after the compressor was between the crossmember and the engine. Just had to choreograph it all in the right order. Everything you saw me film and or describe before or after the compressor was in place and or mounted is how to get it in or out w/o having to remove the mount and jack the engine. Hope your AC is blowing cold ;-) Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. It would go into Forward or Reverse just fine as the Governor isn't used to do that. It wouldn't shift in forward.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Thanks for the positive feedback. Hope the video was helpful for you. :-) Take a look at the rest of my videos when you have a chance. Might be something else of use for you. Thanks again,

Hi. Thanks taking the time to watch and comment. The Vent could indeed be a problem especially with filling the tank, but also there is a plastic corrugated hose inside of the rubber filler neck hose that comes up to filler inlet to vent the pressure when filling. If this is the rear tank the rubber filler neck hose which is also the only tank if a single tank truck has to pass between the top of the frame and the bottom of the bed which is a tight squeeze. Due to age the rubber filler hose could be collapsing or kinking in this area right before it enters the tank. It's really hard to see in this area. I think in the past I've used my phone up in this area to get pics and see what's going on. As for the tank reading full when empty, the sender is the issue. I have several other videos on the gas tanks and senders, fuel selector valve, etc and troubleshooting them. If you go to my channel home (View Channel) you'll find them. You can use resistors in place of the sender to simulate low/half/full tank and see what the gauge does. If you need a new sender, confirm you fuel tank capacity and I'd recommend getting one (or other fuel tank component) through Rock Auto. The ones on LMC are poor quality, but their on line catalog helps determine what tanks for what year you have. I'm curious if you're in Canada since you mentioned litres, not gallons. Let me know what you find out.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Staking won't work with the aluminum case. I could drill and tap, install an insert and run set screw through the boss perpendicular to the pin to tighten against the pin to make sure it stays. The Anti Clunk is actually a flat coiled spring that looks like a squashed version of the spring in a clothes pin. It sits between the case and the shell/planet gears and takes up the lash when switching between forward and reverse. You could have a worn OD Band, seals on the OD Servo, slipping or seals in forward or direct clutches. It's probably time to go through it. It's an 86, so if it hasn't been rebuilt at least once its time now. Any slipping will heat up and potentially damage the drums which are getting hard to find. Should you want to try rebuilding it, I have a very detailed Two Part Series I recently loaded on rebuilding the AOD. Go to my channel home and you'll find them. Transmission shop is most likely not going to do a Bench Job and only want to do the whole remove/rebuild/reinstall which will be around $3K.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 thanks I don't know why I called it a pin realized after I sent the comment , I've had the truck over 20 years it's only got a 130,000 miles on it been doing clunk when it shifts into overdrive since I bought it the not shifting into overdrive until warm started 2 or 3 years ago thanks for your reply

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. That's a bummer on the tank size/pump fit. Mine is old school carbureted external mechanical pump as God intended lol, so no worries on that, but that's good advice for the Pump In Tank Folks. LMC usually does a good job specifying years/options/sizes for various categories, but they might have not been clear on whatever year you have which is probably an 88 or later. I did initially get my tanks/Senders/roll over vent valves from LMC, but the senders and vent valves are Chinese junk. Had to change the senders for both tanks after a very short time and got the replacements from Rock Auto. Ended up putting the original 40 year old vent valve back in as the one from LMC was stuck closed suck a vacuum on the read tank. I have several other TH-cam videos on all that. Thanks again for watching and the good advice on the pump in tank size.

Hi. Thanks for watching and looking so close and taking the time to comment. I saw what you thought might be a crack, but it's a scratch. On video it does look like a crack. That pin does not have the friction fit feel I would expect it to have. I thought about drilling and tapping a set screw in from the side of that boss to tighten into the side of the pin to hold it as it's a bit too easy to tap it in or out and might be why it was tossed, but I'm just going to build the trans I pulled out of it. Thanks again for watching and commenting.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 cool man happy to hear that! You are Welcome

Thanks. I'm working on another project/video to be coming soon transitioning stairs from carpet to wood and building a new landing. Lots of work. I'll also be loading one soon on a stuck governor in the AOD causing shifting issues. Stay Tuned. Thanks again.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad the video helped you out. I have crank windows in my 74 Olds Cutlass and am always having to stop and stretch across the seat to roll the passenger window up or down. F250 is a big truck!

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Now that it's June I need to get back on this project. 10 more feet of joist to replace. Deck has to come off as well as the 2nd story deck above it. Going to use this deck as a work platform to tear off the deck above it and build a balcony in it's place before tearing off this deck and digging into that Rim Joist again.

Hi. Thanks, and thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. This problem is easier to diagnose on lower energy points ignition system since the coil output was lower and the plug gap smaller. it was more frequent in older style coils. HEI has a higher output and larger gap that even a weak coil will still jump. The importance of plug gap is you want the largest gap possible that the spark will jump. The larger the gap, the hotter the spark and the better the initial combustion of the compressed fuel/air mixture.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Glad the video helped.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad that kit worked out for you and most importantly, no leaks! Mine was a high mileage basket case so I wanted to see if an alternative rouge method would work. I had looked at factory approved insert kits for $400-$600 and just wasn't going to spend that much on a one use tool that no one else wants when you're done with on a 250,000 mile engine. I'm reasonably sure tapping the top would have worked if the block had thicker walls enabling me to drill and tap out to get the full bite on the insert. Factory hole was too big for the minimum tap diameter so it just couldn't get the bite it needed. Had nothing to loose on mine so it was worth trying it. Since yours is running good and it's a 2016, might be a good time to sell it before it racks up more miles and goes down in value. Either that or just drive it till the wheels fall off . ;-)

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Hope the video helped you out.

Hi. Wow! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment and the positive feedback. Glad my video helped you out. I do put a lot of effort into making my videos and presenting them in a teaching manner so techniques you see any video can be applied to other situations. Sounds like we have similar trucks. I've had mine since 1991. I temporarily sold it about 10 years ago, but as I like to tell people "I loved this truck so much that I bought it twice". :-) It actually was partially crushed by an oak tree in 2017 that fell on it during Hurricane Irma partially collapsing the roof and blowing out the windshield. It then sat for 5 years till I could fix that. Hopefully I've earned your subscription. I've got quite a few videos about repairs on the truck. I've got engine building, numerous gas tank and sender videos, transmission rebuild, weak coil, carburetor and fuel pump videos, Brakes, shocks, installing a modern stereo, upgrading the AC to a Sanden Compressor and converting to 134a and many more with more videos on the way. Thanks again. Peace.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. Is the air cold and it's volume of air problem, or is the volume of air strong and it's not that cold? Where is the air stream coming out? Is strong wherever it's coming out? Is the vacuum operated mode door working? The blower air either passes through the Evaporator or the Heater core. IF either of them is plugged with trash then the air flow will be reduced. If the ductwork which feeds up to the vents in the left rear corner has come apart the air will just go anywhere. If the Mode Door plastic hinge has popped out it becomes a giant hole in the ductwork. If the rear AC is working the smaller diameter high pressure hose coming in from up under the bottom left will be hot and the low pressure fatter suction hose will cold at the fittings and sweating. If that's no the case and your refrigerant level is proper and your air flow is strong (no leaks in the ductwork) the rear expansion valve could be the fault. I need more information. Did you watch the first part of this two part series? I made these AC videos two years ago and can't remember which part shows all the work at the rear unit. I'll have to check the descriptions, but wanted to get back to you. In the meantime let me know the answers to the questions I asked regarding airflow and if the hoses are hot/cold.

Hello again, thank you very much for answering. The problem is that if I turn on the AC in the back, you can hear it working, but in reality, almost no air comes out of the vents, even if I put it on the third level, obviously, as I mentioned, it has a new blower new door (which is the one that usually breaks) new compressor I have seen the 2 videos you have on TH-cam and I practically replaced everything except the expansion valve and the evaporator that is why I don't know if that is my problem why I don't get no cold air due to the vents thanks again I await your response

Hello again, thank you very much for answering. The problem is that if I turn on the AC in the back, you can hear it working, but in reality, almost no air comes out of the vents, even if I put it on the third level, obviously, as I mentioned, it has a new blower neew door (which is the one that usually breaks) new compressor I have seen the 2 videos you have on TH-cam and I practically replaced everything except the expansion valve and the evaporator that is why I don't know if that is my problem why I don't get no cold air due to the winds thanks again I await your response

Unless I'm misunderstanding you, it sounds like an airflow issue. You didn't confirm if the low pressure hose was cold and the high pressure hose is hot in the left rear corner of the van. If they are then evaporation (removal of heat) is happening and expansion valve and evaporator are functioning. You say that "almost no air comes out of the vents" which since it's the rear we're discussing are the vents that run the center length of the van in the rear headliner. The rear unit plenum ductwork connects to the headliner via a vertical section in the left rear corner about 2 ft long/tall. If you pull that section out you can look straight down it and see the rear evaporator and expansion valve. If you take that section out do you have a high volume of air flow blasting out of the plenum? Yes or No? Is it cold? Yes or No? If yes to those two questions the ductwork that is integrated into the fiberglass headliner is either open or blocked. let me know.

Both lines are hot

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. A year later after this repair and it's still going strong. Have a 9 Month Grass Cutting Season here in North Ga. Gets used at least once a week (sometime twice) from March to November. Hope the video helped you out if you have one of these or similar. I bought this new, I think over 20 years ago and it runs like new. Starts first pull, and cuts grass for over 20 years. That's pretty darn good. Thanks again for watching.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes indeed on checking for HV Leaks in the dark. It's less of an occurrence with modern plug wires. Used to be regular thing that plug wire insulation would break down after a year or so. A spray bottle of water lightly misting the system will really make the electrons put on a show and confirm the plug wire insulation is breaking down causing misfires and skips.

Hi. This is instantly and easily the most meaningful comment and compliment I've ever received. You will go far and do well in life with your outlook. I'm getting close to having 100 videos now, mostly on DIY/How to across many topics. I'm also working on and currently posting a series of videos from my Route 66 Trip in my 1974 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. I even have How to Make Cold Brewed Coffee, Setting Up a Floyd Rose Bridge on a Guitar, and Changing Batteries in Old iPods and Tablets. While I might be showing "how to" do a particular task, I'm also teaching skills, methods, techniques and basics that apply to many situations you'll encounter. Go to my channel home and poke around, and you should find numerous videos that will help give you a good foundation. Some of my first videos are on doing a budget build of a Ford 302. I just loaded two-part series on the Ford AOD Transmision Rebuild. I hope to be doing an updated engine build video sometime soon. I look forward to seeing and hearing more comments from you. I wish you the best. Ask me anything any time. I'd be interested to know what you might be working on and assist you on your journey. :-)

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment. No Doughnut Gasket/Packing, at least not on the 80's factory setup. I'd have to look at some of my older Ford manifolds to make sure. Older GM used a doughnut. The Ford 80's exhaust is a Tapered Male into a Flared Female. They will leak if not pulled up straight and tight and if the flange is out of round. Loosen the flange and then get it to seat holding the pipe against the manifold by hand with one hand and alternating between the two nuts and even amount and getting them really tight. Make sure the studs are not worn from heat/rust and put some silver Permatex Anti-Seize compound (it's a paste) on the threads. Ideally use Brass nuts.

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 ohh ok thankx alot ama check on that am traying to see if it has the o ring soo i can replaced….the truck its a 1978 f150 with a 302

I checked my manifold stash and I have a set of 66 Ford manifolds that do take the Doughnut, and a set of 79 that don't. So with yours a 78, it could go either way. You'll just have to check. They will also leak between the manifold and head which there are gaskets for. I also put a bead of orange high heat RTV around the ports too.

i just toke them off and the pasanger side had a doughnut gasket in bad shape and the driver side didnt have nothig at all n yes ama replace those gaskets and the manifolds and engine too

ok. That will quiet it down. Those donuts didn't even last long from the factory. Between engine torquing and the exhaust system moving around that junction acted like a ball joint. Once the hot exhaust gas flow under pressure passes over those donuts it erodes and eats right through them.

Hi. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Glad the video helped you out.

Hi thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes Front Right wheel has to come off and some shields if I recall to get to the balancer and the other appliances for that matter. Honestly if you have blown head gaskets, just junk it. The Torque to Yield Head Bolts will strip out the threads in the aluminum block when putting it back together. The Insert Tool is about $600 and it will take 2 days to drill, tap, and install the 16 inserts and another few days to get it all back together. If you watch all my videos in the series on this, after trying a work around, I junked it for $500.

@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 My engine is still good. I bought it from a dealer and I noticed a rattle when starting it. After doing some research I found out that the timing chain tensioners go out. I plan on replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners. I just don't see much info on hyundai entourage vans but I found out that the KIA sedona is the same. I am not a mechanic but I don't want my money to do down the drain. I bout my van in a state where they can sell as is, and the dealer wants no responsibility. I just hope I can get the job done, or I will loose the only savings I've had for a vehicle.

Hi. Yes could be the tensioners, a rod bearing (Kia/Hyundai are notorious for this) or a lifter bucket. This job is not for the faint of heart. Intake, valve covers, all the pumps etc have to come off. The water pump is part of the cover. There's numerous seals. It's a big job. That balancer/pulley will come off by hand w/o a puller. If you feel you must dive into it, lock it at TDC (Ignition stroke - cams turn once to crank turning twice), lock the cams, note and photo and video the cam timing marks from every angle, put some extra nail polish or some kind of paint parks and just change the tensioners and rails. Leave the chains alone. The new tensioners will come with a hand grenade pin or something locking them. Don't pull that until after they're installed or you'll never get them in. Once they're unlocked it's like trying to get the Geni back in the bottle. You'll see removing the old ones are loaded with spring tension and when you undo the bolts: boing! There's no gasket for the outer perimeter of the Front Cover. You seal it with BLACK RTV. Too much is too much and too little is too little and it will leak either way, and too much also squeezes it into the inside where it gets loose and clogs the oil pump pickup. I've rebuilt way too many engines that someone else gave it a try, made mistakes, and had me fix them. If you're still compelled to dive into this replace the plastic T fitting in the heater hoses up against the firewall that live under the air intake plenum under the throttle valve. If it runs I'd sell it. There's no turning back once you tear into it, and no mechanic is going to risk coming behind you. May Force Be With You...

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 Thanx for the advise, I already have one valve cover off, I am going to support the engine and remove the passenger wheel after I remove the second valve cover. I ordered new timing chains for the repair. So is replacing the chains a bad idea? Also to lock the engine at TDC I have to put it in neutral, move the crank to TDC, then put it back in park and this will lock it at TDC?I am worried about the timing cover sealant. Do you have a good example on how much sealant to use?

Hi. The chains are expensive, stretch a small amount compared to wear on the guide rails. The tensioners with good rails will take up chain stretch. R/R the chains is high level task. As long as you don't rotate the crank with it apart it's in a "Virtual Lock". Only way you can physically lock the crank directly as I referred to is to actually physically lock it with clamps. I don't 100% recall, but that engine might also have an internal mark with the cover off that lines up with the key in the crank. My other videos of getting the cover off and showing the cam timing marks might show all that. It's been a while, so I don't recall. Once you have both valve covers off you'll find the tiny cam timing marks for all 4 cams which line up with the top edge of the heads when you're at TDC for compression/ignition with all 4 valves (2 int 2 exh) for number one cylinder closed which you can tell by the cam lobe position. You can VERY CAREFULLY lock the cams with vice grips and rags once you've got all the marks lined up. About 1/16th bead down the center and around the bolt holes on the RTV. Use the Cheese Wiz style can of Balck Permatex. Your hands will cramp trying to do it with tubes. The other trick is not messing it up getting the cover back in w/o touching anything before you get it in place.