I thought about it. I want to say tick makes a kit to go to half inch head studs, IIRC, so it "should" be do-able. You'd have to drill the head for the bolt. Need to measure a head gasket hole as well. In the end though, you're back to the same issue. Everytime you run that steel bolt back into the aluminum and torque it down, it's eating the threads in the block.
There’s a 1/2 inch LS head stud upgrade for the LS. You may also have to drill out your cylinder heads for the bigger stud. I personally think all engine manufacturers should have steel threaded inserts in aluminum block engines. Don’t use stainless steel time-sert’s with aluminum… it will start to oxidize the aluminum that’s holding the Time-sert.
Great video, I have one head bolt stud boss that’s stripped on my L92 6.2L engine. I’m just wondering why you need to drill all the way to the end of the blind hole when the insert is only 18mm long. You would think the Time-sert insert would be at least 2 inches long. What’s your thoughts on this.
Going off memory here as the 5.3 finally let go after 4k miles and tons of 22lb pump gas pulls..... as I recall, the factory block isn't threaded either on the top half of the bolt hole, about half of the bolt in the hole isn't threaded either which just leaves the bottom half of the hole that's actually useable. I agree though, seems like the inserts and threaded part of the bolt would be longer.
good job.
what about abolt hole repair and bringing a bigger bolt and that's it?
I thought about it. I want to say tick makes a kit to go to half inch head studs, IIRC, so it "should" be do-able. You'd have to drill the head for the bolt. Need to measure a head gasket hole as well. In the end though, you're back to the same issue. Everytime you run that steel bolt back into the aluminum and torque it down, it's eating the threads in the block.
There’s a 1/2 inch LS head stud upgrade for the LS. You may also have to drill out your cylinder heads for the bigger stud. I personally think all engine manufacturers should have steel threaded inserts in aluminum block engines. Don’t use stainless steel time-sert’s with aluminum… it will start to oxidize the aluminum that’s holding the Time-sert.
Great video, I have one head bolt stud boss that’s stripped on my L92 6.2L engine. I’m just wondering why you need to drill all the way to the end of the blind hole when the insert is only 18mm long. You would think the Time-sert insert would be at least 2 inches long.
What’s your thoughts on this.
Going off memory here as the 5.3 finally let go after 4k miles and tons of 22lb pump gas pulls..... as I recall, the factory block isn't threaded either on the top half of the bolt hole, about half of the bolt in the hole isn't threaded either which just leaves the bottom half of the hole that's actually useable. I agree though, seems like the inserts and threaded part of the bolt would be longer.
How reliable are these? I have a lc9 5.3 with stripped out head bolt threads.