Inspection of Caterpillar D4 engine: rusted rods and pristine pistons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- This is part 10 of the series. Here is the playlist: • Caterpillar D4-7U Rebuild
0:00 Intro
1:08 shop upgrades
2:13 cam derust
4:38 rods/piston removal
7:55 piston inspection
10:37 rest of pistons out
15:55 cam derust pt 2
18:13 conclusion
Fancy new insta account... follow if you want me to spam you with pictures of rusty garbage: / pacific.northwest.hill...
Complaint department: pacific.northwest.hillbilly@gmail.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I agree with Jeremy. Odds are the motor was rebuilt and for some reason let sit. After some years someone decides to get it running and doesn't realize there is all that rust in there. The rust totally contaminates the oil while running and packed the filters full starving the rod bearings, maybe to the point of low or no oil pressure. It quit probably from fuel contamination and they pushed it off to the side. If I'm right about the fuel contamination with rust and crud that is what probably saved the motor. Oil starvation and heating may also explain all the rust as any oil film would have cooked off. This is why you always want to drop the oil and filters before you run a derelict engine. Sure it may be 200 bucks worth of oil and filters but a cam or crank is going to cost more.
It's really a tough call. I have a friend that has put the oil back into the engine and left after seeing what came out. If anything you can show the seller the crud and negotiate the price accordingly.
You are going to have one heck of a nice machine that you can hand down to your grandkids. You're not going to do that with a Northern Tool China special.
Put it together slow and right. If you bump into a problem get with the guys and gals on here. Me, I've forgotten most of my info that is useful as the last Cat I worked on was in the early 80's.
Oh, by the way. Everything on that motor is heavy enough to black a finger nail or maybe worse. Be a scaredy cat and use that hoist! You couldn't hear me shouting not to try to lift that hydraulic pump off by hand.......did you?
Be safe and keep your parts to your body.
Terry from South Carolina
I just love your tiny little lap dog. I had a great German shepherd. Great family protector but full time lap dog. Even when my kids were little... She would just lay on them.
Squatch 253 would be a good friend to have on this project. He has done D2's and other diesel engines.
I was thinking the same thing, you need to go watch his 5J1113 video playlists, he has around 150 videos in all of him tearing down his D2 and building it up again, he also shows all the tips, tricks, tools, and techniques for doing just about everything, and I do mean EVERYTGHING (for example, that camshaft gear was likely hot pressed, meaning to get it off cleanly you probably should have heated the gear up slightly to expand it, THEN used the press....)
You're doing a great job so far, but Squatch will have some tips and tricks that will help you a bunch (I've got a few tips out of his videos and I don't even have one of these Caterpillars...)
Agreed, Squatch253 is THE MAN
If you can't feel any heavy grooving in the journals they should polish up just fine (what you might be feeling is bearing material build-up, not journal grind-down). One thing I would spend the money on is having the block and heads hot tank flushed.
HOT TANK everything. Get rid of all the rust, specially in the oil/lubebricating journal passageways.
@@stevenr8606 Well, true.
Take the block to the machine shop and have them clean it for you rather than using brake cleaner - it will be cheaper and quicker, and they can also clean all the rest of the engine parts. Trust me, you want them to clean all the engine parts for you, for the price (usually less than $100) it is much less hassle and does a better job. Have them pull the cylinders out of the block so you can re-seal them, this is most likely where your coolant leak is from. The reason that your bearings are burnt is because the oil pump was pumping coolant through the oil passages while running rather than oil (oil sits on top of water, so the oil sump will be in coolant instead of oil).
One thing I've learned about big diesel engines, always replace the bearings. And if you have hatching in the cylinders, don't bother changing them or the pistons. The rods if they are straight, clean them up and reuse them. For hard bolts double spanner, you get more leverage on the ring. And use rubber tube on the rod bolts, this will prevent the bolts scatching anything.
Wait, Please elaborate on all that in terms that a noob can understand. what do you mean don't change the cylinders or the pistons if they're messed up? or rubber tube on the rod bolts?
@@blanksender7808Hi,,,,what Robert means is the cyl's show nice honeing marks on the inside & pistons are clean, I think someone put in new pistons & liners and then used the old bearsings, they show alot of wear compaired to the cyl's. As for the rods i put a small rubber hose over the rod bolts to prevent them hitting the crank and marking the surface where the bearings ride when installing them. Hope this helps
@@blanksender7808 unlike a usually light duty engine, cars and pickup trucks. There are liners that go into the block. So if they get damaged, the liners are removable and new ones installed.
They can be either dry or wet. Meaning, dry is a resistant fit into the block and has no o_rings or coolant that touches the liner.
Wet has o rings the contain the coolant around the liner and also the lower seales the engine oil out. They are slip fit. Easier to remove and install.
FYI when your tearing them down or putting them back together wrap a single layer of painters tape around the rod ends if your worried about scoring your cylinder walls but that looks like it gas sleves in it that you can press out and replace
Good video, love your Shepherd, I've had a few and I'm waiting for my next. I'm a disabled mechanic, heavy equipment, trucks ect and a lifelong car guy. The pistons, sleeves look great, once the rust is off the rods they will be fine. The scratches on the crank are a problem, if your local guy can polish it and get bearings the proper size it should be good. If some of that rusty oil went through the oil pump I'd open it up and inspect it, when you clean the block you'll have to flush solvent through all the oil passages cause even a small amount could damage bearings and all your hard work will be for nothing. Brake clean can be expensive, personally I'd get 5 gals of Purple Power and use it with a pressure washer to wash everything (Steam Jenny or hot water pressure washer even better) and save some brake clean for just the oil passages later. Good luck with everything, this is only the second video I've seen but I subscribed. I'm not telling you what you should do just what's worked for me in the past, there's always different ways to accomplish a task. Looking forward to next video.
Looks like the same harbor freight shop press that almost took out my cheekbone. The cast iron arbors are dangerous because the press cross member that adjusts height is not as sturdy as the rating of the jack. Mine had bent while pressing out a ball joint and as a result a 1.5 inch piece of the arbor fractured and sent the piece flying into my face. I was wearing safety glasses at the time which may have protected me perhaps from the sparks, but the cast iron piece felt like Mike Tyson landing a hook and definitely rang my bell. Butterfly bandages did the trick but felt it was necessary a day later to get an x-ray to make sure the cheekbone wasn't broken. DON'T LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU!!!!!! PS, I continued the pressing and applied some heat to the ball joint after the daze of Mike Tyson and it worked. Lessons learned is part of life as long as it doesn't kill you first. lol
Evapo rust is mostly water if you read the ingredients list. Believe it or not it is mostly water so ya I would say its pretty safe bro.
I love hillbilly life here in the P.N.W. out in the sticks on top of Cougar Mt.
I always like to use a propane torch to heat up gear while pressing cam out.
For what it's worth, if that cam is not bent, you may be able to find a machine shop that will rebuild it by spray welding the worn surfaces and regrinding it, then rehardening. It won't be cheap, but less than a new cam sometimes.
For an application like this the cam can probably just be ground (depending on how deep the pitting is). This is a low RPM low HP diesel, the tolerances are often pretty broad, and since there isn't a chance of interference by lowering the lift height of the cam lobe it is even more likely. The bearing journals can even be ground down and an undersized cam bearing be used. Spray welding isn't a bad option when original specs are required to be maintained.
the diesel runs at such a low rpm compared to a gas engine. i am a diesel truck tech sence 89. at a delership this would have never been taken out of the frame and all work would be done inframe.. i would polish the crank with emery cloth and replace all bearings. ball hone the cylinders and put it back together well after cleaning everything as much as possible. not like its a customers unit and i know your on a bit of a budget.. replace the cam and lifters if you can even with a used cam in good condition.
The gear was probably initially heated to put on the shaft and then shrunk as it cooled. This is a common practice for equipment that is meant to stay in place.
yup. interference fit.
@@vincem5 probably a 0.0005- 0.001 interference.
*I have those same wood beams on my dinner table.*
Exactly. I would have heaed it with a small torch or a good heat gun. Put some oil on it and when the smoke flies start pressing.
That's also how it is installed.
@@eddieb4227 ummm, I think an Oxyacetylene torch would be more appropriate (not at cutting temperatures of course), something like a small (I'm guessing propane) torch or the heat gun wouldnt' put out enough to do the job. The Oxy torch is what Squatch253 (who rebuilds old equipment like this regularly) uses in situations like this.
Dont forget to check the seals on the cylinder sleeves the pistons were in theres a good chance that the seals are crap and coolant /water got into the crank case and hosed down the insides of the engine
I watched every vid on the D4 last night and this morning.
You have lots of patience and optimism.
I hope the finger gets better soon. I've been there with toes and fingers.
It looks like the crank rod, and probably the main, journals are going to need polished, but all the bearings are toast. I would also remove all the rings (keep then together for each piston) and check the end gaps before even thinking about reusing them. The rods themselves need media blasted and new inserts. Just what I've seen from the video. Thumbs Up!
Aaa!
@ Gary Mucher
Rings cannot be that expensive to replace. It's not my money but pistons and rings are kind of the minimum for all the labor he spent tearing that engine down. After looking at the rusty connecting rods, they're likely out of balance and I'd like to get a new set of those as well.
Since he has the engine block out of vehicle, he should get and inside micrometer and sure all the cylinders are not out of round. Should probably put back the main bearing caps and check the same. Don't be afraid the bore the cylinders out ten thousandths if need be
@@michaeldunagan8268 Connecting rods were never in balance. Bead blast and they should be fine (make sure cleaned well afterwards). It's a diesel. Cylinder walls are liners.
@@robbieburns1664
Well to each their own.
However, if I was going through this massive labor like he is I'd want everything new except the engine block and engine head: valves, valve springs, valve seats, rings, pistons, wrist pins, connecting rods, rod bearings, crank bearings, I may reuse the crank if a machine shop says it's okay, piston cooler Jets, timing gears, timing chains, all gaskets and o-rings; I'm glad to hear that he's replacing all fasteners just like I would 45 to 55-year-old relic.
Well what I do may be Overkill: however, if it prevents me from having a tear down this tractor again in my remaining acuarial lifetime years, it would be well worth it.
What fun !!!! Lots of wear and tear and apparent neglect. At 9:29...that's a journal...not a bearing. Best to remove piston and rod assemblies with engine vertical...to avoid scratching cylinder bores. You could sand the rust off of the rod "big ends" from underneath to minimize scratches too. People often cover the rod bolt threads with rubber tubing during extraction and insertion of rod/piston assemblies. That's one major project you've got there. Cheaper to rent a dozer for your needs ?? But where's the fun in that. Good luck !! Love your moral support...the puppy !!
Just discovered your channel and already became addict with this series. Hoping to se more of it on the near future!
Same here
The deadpan remarks crack me up buddy "harbor freight wouldn't lie to me right?"
I just found your channel, and I love it. This kind of content is really my favorite to watch.
Keep going young man my name is phill from England 🏴 iv worked on cars 40 years it’s nice to see younger people doing this work
Can't wait for your next video. I have thoroughly enjoyed every one of them and learned a lot about diesel engines.
Love the lap dog. Great idea on the shop storage!
When you take a cap off, remove the piston and rod then refit the cap... they're matched and shouldn't be mixed.
why?
@@blanksender7808 each rod&cap are matched to each other to a certain size.
@@blanksender7808 They are ALL matched-machined from the factory. Keep EACH cap with it's respective rod and the direction of orientation also.
Really enjoying following the detail on this project.
My D4 7U when I got it had been setting for decades. The pony engine was locked up. I pulled it and it was frozen and cracked. Tore it down put it in a barbeque grill and welded it with nickle rod. Pony bored .020 crank turned .020 got parts from the Memphis cat dealer. Then the bottom tank on the radiator was also cracked welded it. Then the engine block was cracked behind the fuel injection pump. I made a plate and drilled and tapped and bolted that on the block. Then the fingers on the starting clutch where broken and the starter pinion gear badly worn. Fixed that with new parts from the cat dealer. Finally got it running. It backfired. The prechamber had rusted and water was getting into number three cyl. blowing bubbles out the radiator. So the rusty prechamber came apart when I went to remove it. I welded a bolt to it and got it out. some of the threads came out with that pre chamber. I installed a new pre chamber and unknown to me water was seeping into the cyl from the bad threads. Hyd pressure from the water bent the piston rod. It was missing so I decided to set the injector timing with a depth mike. The flywheel had been removed and installed wrong and the timing marks where off and I ruined the roller lifters and camshaft in the fuel injection pump. A good used fuel injection pump and a rod from a D6 9U and JB weld on the prechamber threads new piston rings and rod bearings and I finally got it running & holding coolant . Then the gear oil from the trans was leaking all over the steering clutches and they began slipping. Took it apart and every bearing & seal in the trans and final drives was loose and pitted. Stored the parts in a school bus until I could afford new bearings and bellows seals etc. Time passed and I Never put that POS back together. Been apart since 1980. I paid $2000 for the 7U. I later bought a 1940 7J and its a great little dozer. Tight no leaks good undercarrage and only paid $750
Man. 10 years from now we are going to look back on this video and think "Man, that shelf is awesome, I can't believe he only paid $300 for that lumber, what a score"
Uploaded just when i needed something good to watch. 👌
If I remember when you removed the oil pan the oil pickup screen looked like it was clogged, so it could have been starved for oil.
When it comes to the hearing surfaces on cranks, cams, etc.... Scotchbright pads are your best friend. The don't scratch or remove material. They will polish this surfaces so you can do a proper evaluation. The gear is toast. A surface that coarse and pitted will destroy anything it touches.
Just started following your channel and I think this is a REALLY cool project.. yeah she's been neglected but these machines were built to last, they're tough as I'm sure you know, and this thing will easily come back to life. I was eagerly awaiting your next vid and I can't wait to see what happens next! hello from Nevada County CA!
If you had the wrist pin vertical, the connecting rod can’t fall down and scrape the cylinder wall. 🦘
evaporust is non toxic and works a treat. Yes gases are given off as the rust is converted. From what I have seen it looks like that machine was operated from the beginning with little or no oil in at all. Apart from the rust you could see, the rest of those parts look clean like they had just been installed.
I am interested to see how this project comes along. Really cool to see you working on an old machine like that. I am less of an expert than you are; actually have very little knowledge in these areas. But man, I really do like to see it being broken down, repaired and put back together. Love the progress!
Great job on this series.
I just found your chanel today. I've been binge watching bulldozer rebuild from the beginning. I really like your shop/man cave. I subscribed and signed up for notifications. I enjoy your demeanor as you go about each task and your thought process as you explain it. Thanks for sharing.
I'm new subscriber. Loving the series. You make very good videos. Compared to others I've watched your skills are superior!
Take a look at Squatch253 and his total engine rebuild of a CAT D2. This guy knows his engine rebuilding.
Right I suggested the same thing or a Caterpillar club
Squatch is the man to try an speak to for sure
Best thing is he has all the factory manuals, all the measurements and how to make the tools to do the work without breaking things and making them worse.
Would love to see Squatch and you work this over.
This is super cool. I operate equipment for a living. Mostly D6s and 7s
thanks for the entertaining video matt , and you never even had to swear . take care.
A 55 gal drum of evaporust would be good for this project. It would be good for all your restoration. I use 5 gal buckets for most projects or electrolysis vats and my battery charger for the really large stuff. You are doing great!
Last vid showed up in recommendations... first thing I see.. drills hole in finger. Subscribed!
Looking forward to the future!
Awesome barn and workshop. Love the videos! I am also a white collar professional and I am interested in learning more about mechanical repairs.
I have that same H.F. press. That handle is a pain so I swapped it out for a long jack handle. If the cylinder liners mic within spec, I would still suggest removing them and replace the O-rings at the bottom. Otherwise you could end up with water in the oil once it's all back together.
👋😁
@@Murphyslawfarm Hey Murph! Fancy meeting you here!
@@mattthescrapwhisperer lol
I got the same and they have supplied the entire world with those Chinese made pearlers. Another two people I know also have the same. We do not have HF here though. Its SCA selling them in store and hundreds of online suppliers.
Good ole Hazardous Freight tools. I have more than my share of them in my collection of tools!
Great videos really enjoy watching them.
A good way to start my morning. A cup of Joe and Pacific Northwest Hillbilly video, Thanx
Love being subscribed to you! Got here from Imgur after clicking through all your posts and the duck island really hooked me. Loving all the videos and good luck! Love from Sweden.
1. Junk the gear
2.Regrind cam
3.Regrind crank prob.020 to get rid of scoring
4. Light hone on Cylinders
please dont mix rod caps, always keep mated to original rod. Resize IF scored under bearings which I doubt.
5. have fun, will enjoy following along on your journey.
You are correct the #1 cylinder is the furthest from the oil up, usually that determines the rod bearing that will fail first.....
I'm going to say just scrap the cam and gear because of all of the pitting !!
Nice score on the new to you engine!!
We took the head off of our D4 6u
And the bores were pitted so bad you can hook your fingers on them !!
Not your finger nails !!
And it was a running engine!!!
The head was leaking!! 😊👍
to clean up the cam gear and rods, I'd soda blast them. See if someone nearby has a hot tank for the block. Soak the pistons in carb cleaner to free up the rings and clean out the ring grooves. then hone it ,give it new bearings and rings and send it. Good idea to have someone look at the crank.
along with all the things you have mentioned done at the local engine shop, i think you should also consider bringing in the block too into that engine shop; having them boil and degrease/descale the engine block and install new cam bearings
Make sure oil passages super clean that's why hot tank and brake clean and air blow. super good engine!
Beautiful Shepard. cool video
Hi..I watching your process and as a professional engine builder and performance engine shop I would recommend glassbeading the pistons ..con rods ..and getting them resized on a sunnen rod hone…the cylinders would also benefit
With a honing on a automatic cylinder hone….plus shot peen the crank and get it resized….this is standard rebuilding for a good job
Just being that block and the cover plates etc to a shop to get a full dip and clean in a tank. Worth it in the long run especially if you want to repaint it later
Recently got my first diesel ever.. a 7.3 idi... Didn't know doodoo about what i was doing... Tore it apart just like your doing. Brother you will come out so much more knowledgeable it's crazy and will know more than probably 95 % of the people out in the world. Keep on Trucking brother ☮️
Ok. I did see that you have a theory that water had entered in through the valve cover. That is a viable theory since it didn't have the hood on when you approached the crawler. This would be especially true if the tractor was buried in 8 feet of snow year after year. I would also think about other things too including a head gasket leak or a cracked cylinder head. I'd also be a little suspicious of that oil cooler bypass and why it was done.
I looked at your previous videos and I agree that it didn't appear to me that water had gone down the stack and into a cylinder. However, it looks to me like this outfit was run with water fouled oil. I see one comment that said that this engine looked like it had some work done on it just before they quit using the crawler. I agree. There is a possibility that the head wasn't re-torqued after the appropriate amount of use and the head gasket started leaking. That was a pretty common mistake with a lot of the older outfits. As a result, the leak may have fouled the oil with coolant and it was run with fouled oil which would account for a lot of the heating blue that you see in the crank and cam bearings. You probably ought to make sure that neither the cam nor the crank bearings didn't spin in the block. If so, you will have to have the bearing journals built up and line bored.
A head gasket leak with fouled oil use would also account for the general rustiness. When the crawler was idled, the fouled oil was allowed sit and the coolant separated out, the excess moisture could have settled in the bottom of the timing gear cover an ruined the timing gears on the cam and crank. In addition, if it was run with a blown gasket for very long I could have got hot. If it was run hot for very long because of a blown head gasket, the head and/or block may be cracked so have them checked for cracks along with the cam and the crank if they are reusable. To see if the cam and the crank are reusable, mic them out to see what kind of shape that they are in. It was my experience that both Cat and Allis Chalmers made the hardening veneer on their cranks and cams thick enough that they could be reground two or three times and then undersized bearings could be used.
There are many, many good tractor recycling yards scattered around the Midwest. These tractors were really popular in their day so parts should not be a problem though price has always been with Cat parts. Cat was good about making a solid tractor and sticking with a good design for many years, so parts from earlier and later models would often exchange. Question: Was there a pony motor at one time? There should have been unless it was removed. Cat had offered an electric start for quite a while and the hole was in the bell housing for one, but I never did see a vintage D4 or D6 with an electric starter. We used to wind a rope around the pony motor pully made for that purpose and then two or three of us would pull like hell and hoped to live to tell about it. I hated those things. These tractors were often used for deep plowing and could pull 6 foot one bottom plows in that Midwest soil. In my area, the ranchers and loggers used them for snow and log skidders.
Good luck. It is a simple machine and easy to work on though everything on it is heavier than hell as you finger figured out. That was Cat's strong suit (not finger squishing that is).
I sure hope he reads this before he starts trying to put things back together
I close up the container when I use the Evaporust. It keeps it from evaporating. Then just pour it back in the original container when you're done. It doesn't matter much if it has some sediment in it. It will settle out while sitting on the shelf waiting for it's next job.
Great videos Matt! pressure washer might be a solid investment. you could clean the block with it.
Love Doggo! Nice straight stance .
Matt, just recently found your channel and have watched all the episodes. You scored on this machine. I have three of them in my life, none of which I own, but with all of whom I have a close personal relationship. One has the same diesel in the crankcase problem. I have rebuilt the fuel transfer pump and need to replace that ferral and grommet between the filter housing and the injector pump. Originally, all I was doing was replacing the pony with electric start.
Nothing on yours is that bad. Put about five gallons of EvapoRust in that black plastic tub and most of the rust will go away. Wonderful stuff!
Replace the spring in the transfer pump. They rust out easily. These machines were built to use what was laying around. The hydraulic pump needs 30W motor oil. Forget hydraulic oil-too thin. Use the books. Put kerosene in the clutch compartments and let them soak. Main clutch is probably OK. Wash the transmission with kerosene also. You can use it over-just filter it.
You are doing a good job. Rebuilt, this dozer is good for another half century.
I'm suffering from withdrawal symptoms...this is a really interesting project and I need a fix!!
Love your lap dog!
Cam gear looks like a good wall hanger.
I'm not an expert either, but it seems cat is pretty good about parts even for the older stuff, looking forward to seeing you bring it back to life if possible
Clean the oil passages really good
It was heated to 450 Degrees and the shaft was frozen to shrink it. When brought together the temp equalized and it is permanent.
I'm enjoying your adventure with your D4. I have 2 D2-5J Cats. One is a bulldozer with a similar blade as yours. The other is a Traxcavator. You have an eternity of cleaning ahead of you. As I'm sure you know special attention will need to be given to the oil galleries. If possible I would have the block hot tanked if you can find new cam bearings. Also check oil pump for excess wear. Good luck and press on.
I would for sure be pulling liners out as they can be deteriorated where you cant see and in the end you want to know for all the work involved that you have reliable unit I have always replaced them
I would cross the bridge when I got to it. Nice lap dog!
call Pauls Rod and Bearing. they can re-babbit your shells for less than most places (and it's spin babbitted not just poured). the machine shop can then line bore them to the undersize your crank was machined to. i need to have this done on my '37 Studebaker President since bearings are 100% unavailable
"I don't know what I'm doing or what to do, but I'm taking this shit apart." Ummm ... OK, sounds reasonable.
I was thinking the same thing
It's a learning experience. Also can be fun.
Had a problem with a pulley on our Peterbilt. Wound up heating it up when we pulled it off, then super cooled it with nitrogen (if you can get ahold of some) when we wanted to reassemble it
Where to start, bores no ridge so they should be fine. Skirts on the pistons looked very good . Cheaper to clean the cam/gears/crank and assess just how bad they are or are not. Fun to work on a old machine with tools and your head rather than a credit card! Some mechinics seem faster to whip out your credit card than their wrench!
great little series of videos... i love seeing people restore old equipment and put it back to work. idk what part of the pacfic nw you reside in but maybe call delta cams in tacoma wash and see if they can micro polish the cam and crank for you? i had a stage 3 cam for my acura rsx that was discontinued from production and it galled one of the lobes pretty bad and they were able to fix it really easy and cheap... anyways keep up the great work and good content in these videos
Nice job with the filming and editing. I agree with the others. Don't take shortcuts this deep into that engine. Take the cam, crank, rods, pistons and case to a machine shop and have them fixed/cleaned correctly.
I'm looking forward to your future updates as you bring that bad boy back to life.
It is great that you bought the replacement engine in pristine condition for $500
Hot tank block head parts . polish crank and cam at machine shop. Get new bearings sleeve rings. pull sleeves. If gears don't clean up may have too get them. used ok. Your doing good!
A small sand plaster would clean up the rods really well. I got a table top model from harbor frieght. And use it on engine parts alot like pulleys and brachetery.
I agree with you, it will be worth the cost to have a machine shop give their opinion on the condition of the journals. You’re in deep enough at this point that you need to have things within specs so she’ll work trouble-free for as long as possible. Assuming you didn’t pay that much for the whole machine, it’ll still be a bargain. Good luck. 😎👍👀
We just recently got two D 4s in to our museum. The engines are siezed in both of them which I was expecting. I'm not sure of the year of them but the one has like metal covers over the steering clutches and hand clutch instead of the rubber grommets
I own two D4 cats. one a 1940 7J it has the metal covers over the steering clutch. the other a 49 D4 7U has the rubber boots. the 7J is a 4&1/4 bore engine with 318 cubic inches. the 7U is a 4&1/2 bore engine with 350 cubic inches.
I would suggest you pull the liners ... Before you do check the counter bore per your tolerances. pull your liners. You will probably find that the o-rings for the water jacket have deteriorated. Which is where most of your creek water from the cooling system went. Which probably contributed to the amount of water in the engine... Good Luck...
First time here and got to say I like what and how your doing the tear down. I’m just sorry everything is so damn rusty and pitted. Hope you can find “and afford” the replacement parts! Yes I did subscribe!
Think your crank will need to be ground undersize, if you can get matching bearings. Pistons look very low hours. Journal on cylinder 1 has starved for oil. The conrods might have some surface pitting on them for sure, if you get them shot peened it will smooth them up and prevent cracking under load.
Agree.
Dude, I'm a new subscriber currently under a Covid Lock down in Da Nang, Vietnam. Wish I could help you out. Looks like a fun build. Cheers and beers from Da Nang!
On those pistons rods you could use some marine rust remover chemical one comes to mind is Chemprime it removes the rust by converting it into a zinc compound, I think.
But anyway it removes just iron oxide not the steel via the acid in the solution.
Looks like normal rust from sitting. May want a machine shop to clean up the cam. Good time to replace the bearings,easier now then being doing after you reassemble.
Just watched your d4 series.
U done terrific.
U need to put a sticker on machine when done called blue finger.
Looking forward to seeing it fixed up and going.
Hey Matt
How does it feel to have 14k viewers and counting?! So far do good. Myself and a lot of other folks love this kinda stuff. Bring it on.
It's great that you have such a skilled Shepard helper too.
Over 15 thousand as of September 1st
140k 4/22 :D
I've just discovered your channel and I really enjoyed the D4. In the years bettween 1973-2008, I was a CAT parts man working for Jeff Hunt and Blanchard Caterpillar near Chs. S.C.
I almost went blind trying to read the part number cast into the metal. 4K just don't suffice. You have taken me down Happy Memory Lane. Thanks a buch.
I'd be looking at a engine parts breakdown sheet before reassembly.
There might have been retention keys used on a shaft gears.
I've got a couple of suggestions for alternatives to use for cleaning up the teeth on the gear and the sludge in the crank case. I'd use a variable speed band file belt sander with several different numbered belts. It would be far faster than manually filing each tooth. For cleaning up the sludge in the crank case, instead of using cans of brake clean, get a spot spray type sprayer and buy the brake clean by the jug or bucket full. That would be cheaper in the long run assuming that you'll be using brake clean in other projects later on.
Hello my feller PNW TH-camr. Great project you're working on. After stumbling upon the channel & this project, I just had to subscribe to your channel!
You can also "read" the bearings and small ends, by looking for wear patterns that are either off set or localised. That would tell you right away if you have bent rods or journals that are either tapered or hour glassed.
Whatever happens I'm compelled to see this mission through.
Second opinion is a good idea! I would measure for ovality on the crank I wouldn't worry too much about the "grooves" it's ovality that counts! By the way, using extensions on hammer action tools reduces power!
*Friendly Advice*
*When the crank goes to the shop, ask to have the journals polished. Refrain from suggesting that the crank needs a regrind. A quality shop will polish then measure the journals for out of round and taper. Should the crank fail inspection, then a regrind and possibly nitriding may be necessary, of course at additional expense*
I'm glad your finger is feeling better, it doesn't look good though. As far as the engine goes yes that cam gears is toast you need to De rust the whole engine you could use muriatic acid as it will be way cheaper than what you're using. TH-cam muriatic acid for de rusting. You will be surprised if you had no money and you just de rusted that engine and put it back together how well it would still run. Even that cam gear would be fine. However I'm recommending you replace all bearings and cam gear, get cam reground, hone cylinders..... etc...... loving your content, cheers Stew.