The steering clutch linkage on this Cat D4 needs some work
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ค. 2024
- If I didn't record this stuff I may never remember how to put it back together.
Here are the previous videos from this project: • Caterpillar D4-7U Rebuild
Add me on Instagram: / pacific.northwest.hill...
Contact:
pacific.northwest.hillbilly@gmail.com
PO Box 2515
Hillsboro, OR 97123
0:00 intro
2:21 removal from case
6:45 looking at rusted stuff
9:17 clutch controls
13:17 disassembly
18:00 I have a plan
20:19 pressure washing
24:14 the end
#caterpillar #d47u - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Almost missed the dog licking its privates on camera when I edited this together...the fire graphic is hopefully less distracting.
he does it because he can.
If I could, I’d never leave the house
I thought it was some sort of poltergiest and the dog was trying to eat fire.dam had me worried for the dog n barn ,to find out he was only licking himself,heck we all would if we could,ha ha..snooky pa.
@@RyJones would that make you gay
@@dafalzonAUS ask Ron Jeremy lol
The easiest way to remove those bearing races is to put a bead of weld on the inside of them, once the weld cools they will fall out.
I came here to say the same thing
Never knew that, but makes sense, thank you.
Charlie is such a gorgeous German Shepherd. What a great companion to have whilst you're working
It's good that your organized and structured. That project could get away from many people. I did a every nut and bolt removal pan off restoration of a rusty VW bug. Lot of rusty metal being cut off with new metal welded on. My garage was packed with shelving of all the parts. I kept it organized and had a pad with me when I disassembled the car. I wrote down what parts were needed. 2 years and several breaks from the project to recharge my batteries, and I finished the car.
Many people start a project like a car restoration or a project like yours with a piece of equipment. Sadly, many of these projects are not finished. They are sold or people just scrap the parts.
I have a strong belief that you're going to continue to systematically work through each section till that dozer is moving dirt!
You're doing a good job filming and editing these videos to keep them enjoyable. I'm looking forward to your updates!
There’s some stuff called cosmoline and it’s like a grease and kinda waxy spray for protecting machine surfaces until you’re ready for assembly! It washes off easy with diesel or kerosene before assembly! Just something else I learned it the machine shop!, thanks for sharing Matt!👌🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
Cosmoline EASY to wash off?!! Somebody obviously has never bought surplus firearms! Lol
Loved you playing with Charlie
Matt, I sure appreciate your effort and work ethic. These alone make your channel worth watching. Keep it comin’
I enjoy watching your vids... Don't know why ??? I don't have a cat nor will I ever... Just great videos... Good explanations... easy to follow your work.... Thanks....
I'm enjoying your videos. I've never had to dig this deep into my 5J D-2. Your fearlessness is inspiring.
I'm impressed with your " stick to it " effort. Thanks again for sharing this with us. 🔥fire graphic was brilliant.
I understand your sense of humor.
Thank you. I've been a mechanic all my life (@65 yo) and have never understood the workings of the clutch/ rear diff and how it worked so as to steer it. Now thanks to you I understand it. Thank you
I have been waiting for your latest Video ! I wish I was there to help ! Over 40 years of experience. You do a good job with the limited tools and expertise ! But you seen to manage !
its kinda relaxing watching someone else work that knows what hes doing
I can assure you I don't know what I'm doing
Charlie looked like he was learning a few things. lol Try a tapered reamer instead of a drill bit, they may be a bit of money but they will drill that casting perfectly and not rip your arm off.
Great vid. Prelube all those bolts and nuts brother. Not the WD-40. Try croil, PB blaster or the other penetrating lubes. A guy on here called scout crafter makes a penetrant he calls 50/50. Half transmission fluid and acetone. Worked great. As a guy who removed a lot of stuck and broken bolts I’ll say it will save you time and frustration. Looking forward to the next vid.
WD-40 IS NOT a lubricant
He's not using WD-40 for lubricant. He's clearly clued up enough to know what needs greasing and what doesn't.
Interesting videos.
My favorite saying from a customer is. “It’s simple, all you gotta do is.” Pretty much guarantees a thousand dollars and a two day job.
Thanks Matt for sharing these videos, they are very informative.
Also thanks for making videos without all the cussing, and filthy talk. I look forward to the next one.
I like your idea of improving on Cat's bearings. After putting in all this work, you don't want to have to think about their design issue causing premature wear.
Great series.
I learned a valuable lesson about running hot water through a regular pressure washer. Make sure you read the manual to make sure the pump is rated to run hot water. I was operating one and it was only rated to water temps up to 110 degrees. Hot water was set to about 135. Had to replace some O rings in the pump after that… oops 😂.
Best thing to do with the grease fitting is to put plugs in and when you want to grease them take the plugs out and use a new grease fitting that way you never get dirt in the grease fittings. I went through this with my skidder greasing the wheel bearings. I replaced about 5 sets of wheel bearings before I got smart. Lol.
Sorry to see that your dog Charlie got burned up.
During pressure washing, I noticed you wear the exact same safety glasses as I do!!
Thx for the update. Lots of work.
Another interesting video, Matt! You are one tenacious dude - most guys would have given up and paid someone to do it. You have the right combination of knowledge and willingness to work hard! I'm afraid I have been too willing to work and not smart enough....
You are a very ambitious young man. I enjoy watching your videos. I wish you were only the best of luck in completing his project.
Your determination is most admirable.
Keep the videos coming. I know nothing about cat bulldozers. So I can’t help you. You are teaching me☺️
Hi From AU Matt, I think its time you make a simple box bead blaster/ sand blaster , after owing one in the workshop for over 40 years it is the one single tool I could not do without. Simple and cheap to run, it takes ALL that crap rusty looking blobs you have and turns them back into shiney machined parts, if not for wear, they look new. Any problem with a part will be revealed after its cleaned. And as a added bonus, the work effort is drastically reduced. Cheers.. Mike.
in my 40 years s a toolmaker machinist and part time mechanic i have never ever seen rusted bearings !
now you have, everything on this thing is rusty.
Regarding bearings. How old is that machine? If you pack them with heavy grease, they will out live you!. Also, I think your barking up the wrong tree to "drill" out a hardened bearing. To get the bearing shell out, weld a bead around on the inside surface of the bearing. When the weld, and the bearing cools, it will shrink, and fall out. I would stick to using what came with the machine originally. Love the rebuild.
It is a 1950 Cat so yeah it is pretty old.
I,admire you attitude and tenacity. Keep long videos
Hay I think you do a very good video thanks for showing see you next time...
Great videos! following your build from uruguay 💪💪💪
I'm loving your videos, Matt. You do a great job editing, narrating, and you keep moving. Can't wait to see the next installment!
Really enjoy your videos and effort to restore the old D4. Thanks for taking the time to explain the parts functions and relationship to one another. Keep at it my man! I lived in Forest Grove/Hillsboro for over 30 years. Bald Mountain area looks very familiar.
Really liking the series. Love the Dog, love the part where you added the fire to cover what he was licking : ) Looking forward to the next one. All my best.
Great video, thanks for sharing. Something you may want to consider, when you go to loosen a nut / bolt with a "open -end wrench," use the box end instead to break loose the item. Reason is if you use the open-end, the fingers of the wrench spread open, thus causing the wrench to slip, and this is when you start using the words that need to be bleeped out of video's. Also when possible, always loosen a nut / bolt combination via loosen the nut, hold the bolt head still / non moving, when the situation allows. Also on hard to loosen nut's, when you get it to move / loosen, continue to rock back & forth and only try to advance a turn or two at most. The reason is the rust can build up so much that it will try its best to lock-up / seize-up the nut. By rocking it back & forth your trying to grind the rust-up to dust (when doing it dry) if you will. That's why when you can, spray some type of oil on the item your trying to loosen, when conditions allow.
Such a comfort to have a dog around. Especially one named Charlie!
I so wish I lived close by your place ... I would enjoy helping repair and rebuild the dozer .. I was a Millwright for many years .. for example all the giant sockets you had to buy I have in stock.
I surprise my self by learning some of the techniques you use .. can't wait for the next video!!
Wow. That's quite the project you got there
That’s looking good for things starting yo come back together now! Great work!
Matt, I enjoy your determination, and your honesty, your ability to learn on the fly, all the best on your restoration.
I don't know if anyone has suggested it but I think it would be simple for a mag drill to drill the holes out. Any good excuse to get a mag drill is a good one! Really enjoying this project. You're doing a great job and easy to understand.
Hi PNH, I thought I would let you know that I'm loving these video's of yours, Please keep them coming, I'm watching every one of them. A+++++++++++++
You should have asked me, I know how to steer a Caterpillar! Great video!
I cannot believe you don’t have a sand blaster or two. Makes the job soooo much easier
Some more progress.Thanks Matt for the update.
I could be wrong but I think those bearing races are hard and can not be drilled with a high speed twist drill. A easy way to get those races out is to put a bead of weld in the inside this causes the race to shrink and it will then fall out .Great job working on the machine !
remember that most of the internal rusty rollers/bearing ect was due poor maintenance with leaky covers / plates /lack of concern ect that let water in over decades , this nice machine when finished if stored under cover when not used will last a life time
This machine is very lucky to not be on its way to make rebar out of it. You are one of few that would take this and redo it. Had you seen the other machines where you got the engine at, one of the better ones there would of came home and be doing what your intentions are. I kinda think with this much put into saving it, It just might live on many more years as family machine or piece that can still work and show off its abilities at some carnival. Your going to have a very good "old" machine. Value wise, it doesn't make money sense for building it back. I bet a new pickup would not be enough to get out of your hands now/LOL. I am impressed with your skills
Great work Matt. Don't know exactly why I keep watching, but I do. Careful with your eyes while pressure washing - even a paint fleck will mess you up. Will keep coming back. Good luck.
I'm pretty much stuck at home with the big C, so I watch alot of youtube an I've got to say your my fav. Your very maticulous.
Thanks. Sorry to hear that you are sick, hopefully there is a good prognosis.
you should go around the CAT and just spray penetrate on every thing rusty. so when you do get to it, it will have soaked in really good.
You have no idea how much I love this series. Keep up the great work!
One old dirty heavy puzzle..wow can't wait for more episodes 😀😀😀😀
Man,you'd think this things' been at the bottom of a lake for 10 years!
the very last of the 7U cats had a two piece trans cover. The clutch compartment was seperate from the trans compartment. Many owners sawed the cover to replicate what the factory did with the last 7U crawlers trans cover.
That video was great. The fire editing was a bit distracting, but I'm sure what was behind it would have been equally so. Thanks for another entertaining video Matt
such an awesome build
Love the fire on the dog at 8 minutes!
*- I very much enjoy your tenacity, Matt . . . AND the success of your research on how to do things.*
*- Along with the wire wheel, consider the soaped Brillo Pad trick to remove paint.*
*- The paint color you have chosen looks good on video.*
*- For all the work you do to repair this machine, the paint shows it off and makes it feel worth it.*
Consider replacing those needle bearings with Oil Lite bushings / oil impregnated bushings from McMaster-Carr
Came here to say the same thing :). I'm not sure why they fit those rust prone roller bearings originally, with little access and just a low speed rocking motion, oil lite bushings are a much better option IMO.
Great save on the pupper. Keep up the great work.
"Dang it Charlie! " 🔥
T-shirt!
Friggin love the vids and all the detail. I'm so intrigued. For so little money, your gonna have a friggin dozer! Rebuilt one at that!
funny the dog, excellent craftmanship in work great on upgrading the bearings for the future
Hi Matt and Charlie I have to say I love your Dog . And you are the man going head first into rebuilding a tractor 🚜 and not being a tractor mechanic
The fire graphic is hilarious! A ton of smaller parts to make the bigger parts work, it does look like it all adds up and is time consuming. But, it does look like you have a good plan of action, with a handle or at least a good direction for completion. Good luck with rounding up all the parts and finding the new bearings. Slow & steady!
Love your channel bro...Not only are you fixing it,you're also removing the rust and painting it.
Which make your video more interesting to watch..
Nice video matt you get it
Buna is what standard o-rings are made from. Viton is better quality but more expensive. There is a place in Toronto I used to deal with that had both in stock. You should be able to find it. Keep going!
A lot of work you say? That's a huge understatement sir. I assume that, by the time this machine runs again, we are most probably see summer again. Your determination is recommendable. I tip my hat to you.
Thanks Matt, see you on the next one! Keep pushing Brother.
Good one .Keep up the good work
To get rid of rust you can use line away toilet cleaner it removes rust. Dump it in a bucket and let it soak a few days. Works wonders.
enjoy watching you concur the " I don't have a CLUE " on how to deal with it. A little bit of DISRESPECT with a hammer and chisel and THAT'S HOW ITS DONE !
I would strongly recommend using a solution of TSP (Tri-Sodium Phosphate-any hardware or paint shop will have it) as a degreaser and an adhesion primer before applying any new paint. Better to use gloves and eye protection as it can be caustic.
I respect you for attacking a significant task like this. I’ve really enjoyed watching your tenacity as you continue to make progress on this major project. Can’t wait to see you doing “wheelies” at the finish!! 😂👍
Good idea. It has the advantage it is inexpensive, and the phosphate will break down sufficiently that it will fertilize.
I commend you on the awesome job you are doing and how thorough you are doing the rebuild.
That case looked much gooder after the power washing!
Been watching these videos last few weeks getting caught up in your D4 build. Love your patience man on fixing things. Do it right. Really liked your sealed bearing upgrade instead of those needle bearings. Looking forward to excavator project as well. Love the channel man keep the videos coming.
That’s an awesome idea you have for those bearings.
Keep up the good work , hope the mail comes through fast and you get the puller to work. I used a 4'' angle grinder and a big knotted wire brush too go over castings , little wire brushes for holes and flat areas. I used a wire brush that had a handle , cut the handle off the twisted wire holding the brush and put it in the drill , works super on small holes. You should be able to get them at a hardware store or auto store .
I know you just want the dozer to be a reliable work horse but at this stage I’d say your in full blown resto mode
Nice to see a job done right and not cutting corners
Winter's coming buddy, need to set up for inside projects!
Around 8 minutes in that made me laugh so hard, keep up the great content I’m loving your work!
I like it as you and us on you tube are learning as we go I like the way you do this Doing one whole section at a time. As some one said on here Those needle rollers just need wheel bearing don't travel very far about 30 degrees
If you can reach in and weld a quick bead on the ID that will shrink the race to knock out and sometimes they will fall out! I learned a lot of stuff working around machinist for near 40 years brother!
This D4 is gonna be a ripper! Your doing great work mate..🇦🇺🍺🍺
You are definitely earning your chops!
I admire your tenacity on this as it seems that every part of the machine has suffered in some way. This said every little bit you compete is one step nearer the end of the tunnel.
I fill a spray bottle with hot water and Lestoil or Mr. Clean , and spray the part with it and then use the pressure washer . Works really good .
I use cheep oven cleaner on big parts like that before power washing takes a lot of crud off
that fibrous material in teh bushing is probably jute- a greased jute called oakum was used for seals way back when - it almost worked. also used to pack cast iron pipe joints before lead was poured in.
Try using a wheel cylinder hone to open up those holes, the race is probably hardened and will not drill easy. Keep at it You eat an elephant one bite at a time.
A hone is a great idea... might give that a shot. Was a little worried about the hardness, but it's so rusty there might not be much hardness left. Guess I'll find out when it snaps my drill bit in half...
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly you can not get an accurate sized hole with a drill you need to use a reamer! however as others have said I think you would be better off just replacing the original style bearings with some high quality grease.
Another great video chris from england
I love these videos man, keep them up :)
mig weld a line down the inside of the races , i was sceptical when i first tried it.... its like witchcraft but it works
Great job, it's so interesting to watch you tear into and dissect this dozer, while everything is either wornout stuck or broken it's going to be so sweet when you get it completed, I'm already looking forward to the next episode, thanks. Cheers from Jacksonville Florida 🌞
FYI when dealing with precision fits for bearings you typically do NOT use a twist drill for a final fit you use a hand reamer to sneak up on your measurement, either with an adjustable or a fixed diameter. It will give you a better finish for your new bearings to ride on along with far more control in the machining process since I don't expect your going to lay that 400lb casting in your drill press. A twist drill of that size will tend to wallow out your hole and produce poor bearing fitment and cause wobble. Make I could see doing it for one but not eight invest in a good hand reamer for this. Further more the races left in casting are proly hardened and you'll need to take the harness out of them by heating them to a purple to cherry color to re temper them so you can machine them, or you could possibly use Carbide tools to do the work but I would reheat them.
Same thought, drilling then will need reamer, pull/well then machine new inserts
@@s.m.aggies7220
Yeah machining hardened steel outside of a machine shop is not recommended. After some more thought on this is what i came up with get a bushing made form mild steel for the new bearings or machine some oilite brass to fit the part and dont use any bearings. Other Thoughts?
I ended up using a brake hone.. worked pretty well. There are pics of it in the last community posting.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly
That's one heck of an idea never thought of that how many thousandths did you have to remove? i missed that in the video, what a great and simple idea though. When you have a machine shop at your disposal you can very easily overlook something as simple as a hone.
It's not in that video, but I just shared some pictures of it here: th-cam.com/users/postUgkx50msXFnw1QKZm2krS7YprLBpeDSSSJe9
Not sure how much I had to remove... less than the 0.020 I originally thought. Mostly just had to remove the rust coating.
Good job one of days a operational dozer !!
I wondered what was going on at first I thought there was a 🔥 but that is hilarious hahahahaha
Other then that I’m very much enjoying your videos , on the first video I really thought that you have bitten off far more than you can chew but you just soldier on and solve one problem after the other well you have my respect well done cheers
Do yourself a favor and go to Harbor Freight and pick up a Needle Scaler. I have rebuilt several tractors and use it to remove all paint, rust, hardened grease and anything else stuck to the frame. It will chip all the paint off and leave the primer behind.