There is a fellow TH-camr named Adam Booth, who goes by Abom79, who owns and operates a machine shop in Pensacola, FL. He does quite a bit of work building up deteriorated bearing journals and similar parts using spray welding, followed by turning to correct size in a lathe. He appears to enjoy helping hobbyists restoring antique machinery.
Yes!!! I agree!!! Check out ABOM79 channel!!! Here is a link to the most current project he is doing w/ spray welding to repair a shaft journal. th-cam.com/video/pWUewFnLHIo/w-d-xo.html
I came here to say pretty much the same thing. Adam probably could put you in touch with another spray welder if he can't take it on. Maybe even another YT creator who could use your help in return.
I'm familiar with spray welding. It seems to be used on balanced rotating shafts. I'm not sure how well it would work on DIESEL engine bearings. There is a lot of sudden force when the fuel lights off. That is why they are so noisy. If anyone would know it would be Adam Booth. I sure hope that Matt can find a reasonably priced solution. Googling spray welding of crankshafts yields some interesting but likely expensive processes. Submerged arc seems to be the way to go.
I think this 40/40 under crank is too far gone for the spray welding if I understood what Adam was saying about this subject in several vids he posted but it would be worth the ask to actually find out for sure.
the bit as the end was such valuable advice. when I pulled the head off my 3-71 Detroit, I was simply stunned at the shear weight of the relatively small head. It seemed to be +200 lbs. So many people speak in terms of protecting your self from an accident. Your advice on recognizing how an accident COULD happen and taking actions to prevent the accident from ever occurring are golden words. More people should learn such ideas.
It's rebuildable - you just need money. I rebuilt my D2 crank, just a slightly smaller version of what you have, about 6 years ago. Just cut it down to 030, except for the front journal that I had spray-welded back up to standard.I've had every single nut and bolt and component off my machine so am well-acquainted with what's feasible. I would guess it's taken about 10k so far including new undercarriage - not worth it from a "get my money back" perspective but totally worth it as a hobby
I have worked in the energy sector my whole life, rebuilt Waukesha, Cat, Cummins, and MOPARS. You seem to be new at this and that is why I love your channel! You go into it headlong, I love to see a person take on something uncomfortable to them. I don’t know what kind of comments you get but please disregard the hate trolls! Keep up the good work, keep learning! It’s people like you, South Main Auto, Mustie 1, SV Seeker and James Condon that teach and motivate people to get it done!
I would pay good money to watch a reaction video of Squatch's face as Hillbilly goes through this rebuild. Keep at it Hillbilly, the path you have chosen looks to be a steep one with lots of jolts along the way. Keeping my fingers crossed for you, and looking forward to the day you can fire this old CAT back up and go play.
Forgot to mention this, but yes I know about Squatch253's channel. In fact I watched many of his videos after seeing the Craigslist listing, but before I decided to go look at this machine to buy, just to get an idea of how feasible it is as a project. He definitely knows what he is doing and makes this stuff look easy...he could probably rebuild this D4 blindfolded in the pouring rain, or at least would have had the common sense to send this project on down the road to some other sucker (like me).
Stuff looks easy thru a vid screen. Been wrenching for 44 yrs. I don't make my living as such. So take my comments with some direction toward the oldest guy in the machine/engine build shop.. He can look your parts over and give you a quick yes or no. Now I am the guy who never listens to anyone - but lets my mind wander in thinking up a solution. First - I was a gent who did not have a lot of money, so I used shim stock and files and plasti-gauge. The Crank journals are first. Use the original bearings and get a measurement. --- Cam - use 1000 grit wet dry paper. polish the cam - use Popsicle sticks to adjust the pressure against the oil gear teeth. use 10/30 oil. Toilet paper to clean it off and set it up and 1000 - will not harm the cam. Polish only the cam bearing surfaces - and the lobes. I cut the wet-paper in 11 inch strip. That way you can have a long slow ribbon covering more than 180 degrees. At most - replacing all the bearings might be the way to refresh the engine. I am a efficient builder - I just dont use most services. Shim stock and a file - A vernier caliper down to "1000 of an inch". When I am doing this work - I accept a measurement larger that the "acceptable" or "desirable." I am a part- owner of a D4 - 1949. Cheers to you Sir!
You might could get get some oversized bearing but you have to find an old hillbilly type parts manager knows how to get them parts cross matched these new guys just punch numbers in a computer and that's all they know
Well, Squatch has been rebuilding these old tractors for quite a while, and I doubt he would send off an unusable project to an sucker, he's just too nice and honest to do something like that. I suspect either you would know exactly what you were getting into, or it would end up in his 'parts pile' for a bit for anything salvagable before being scrapped completely.
For me, the reason your videos are so good is that you provide context for each thing you do so even the novice (like me) can follow what you're doing and why it is necessary. Some other TH-camrs don't explain the why's in enough detail. The fact you're hitting some fundamental issues in these videos is also very instructive to a novice like me on the pitfalls/ possibilities when buying used kit to restore. Looking forward to more installments. Cheers.
Howdy Sir. A tip I picked up from Steves small engine saloon is to use toilet bowl cleaner instead of evapo-rust. It works a whole lot better and cost about 1/10th of the eco friendly evapo rust. Keep up the good work.
I love the spectrum of advice: from boat anchor to just sand it out. Can’t wait to see the result. I’m on the edge of my seat with respect and sending you encouragement. Best Regards
The reason you can only do two regrinds is the thickness of the case hardening on the journals.. However, upon the third regrind you have to reharden the crankshaft by placing it ( if i remember correctly) in an oven at 400 degrees for 24 hours whilst bathing it in ammonia gas. This produces a case hardening of between 19 and 25 thou ( enough for two more regrinds ...). Usually commercial seaports have engineering companies than can case harden large crankshafts.
Ever since I saw the movie Faces Of Death where the guy in the junk yard was removing a disk brake without properly securing the car and it fell on his leg severing it...then he died...I have taken GREAT pains to secure anything over my body especially vehicles...I will never forget that scene or the results.
Arc submersion welding is what is generally used to rebuild crank/cam shafts. Finish hardness is critical, as is material cool down. Go with the shop that has the best rep in your area.
Matt, TH-cam randomly added one of your D4 videos today and I’m hooked. I subscribed and binge watched’ em all. The project is cool and I like your presentation style. Keep the videos coming and be safe.
I love watching the reveals on the D4. Lots of unexpected! It's a history of a 71 year old earth mover and the countless times this expensive machine has been repaired. Lots of money and time over 70 years and you are continuing life for another 70 years for this D4.....jusrfult don't spend more time with the Cat than with your family and your wonderful GS dog companion....
Keep persevering mate. It may seem daunting but you will figure it out and the satisfaction once done will be worth it. PS Get some steel capped boots.
Sometimes there is no point in throwing good money after bad. You might consider taking the trans cover off or trans covers off it it has the newer two piece one. and inspect the trans gears bevel pinion and steering clutches. Then decide if you still want to put the dollars into this machine to get it back in service? It might be less costly to buy another D4 and use this one for parts. If you can find one that runs and the undercarrage is worn out they sell real cheap. and you could swap your tracks and parts on it.
I came across this series and I’m hooked. I have a 50+ year old JD450 that I really don’t need but fell in love with. An old bulldozer isn’t a project it’s an obsession. If you don’t cut corners and do it right that machine will last forever. I’m pretty sure you can get the crank repaired but I don’t know about the cam. Cam lobes are pretty hard. You might also want to pull the cylinder sleeves to make sure they are ok. I believe they can suffer damage on the coolant side from cavitation. Unlike a gas engine, diesels are designed to be rebuilt over and over. Thanks for posting this series. I look forward to each episode.
What a shame that someone put all that time and money into rebuilding that motor, who knows when and than for whatever reason, just parked it. Well, the great news is, now you have it and in the not so near future, you are going to have a 1950 D4 Cat Dozer that will outlast your grand kids!. Love the channel and love this series! HOOAH!!!
It's a great machine keep at it. Over tighten bolts won't crack a bearing. Cracks are normally from flexing bending. Is the block warped? Put a straight edge down all mains to see if they are in line. Left to right.
Hey Matt, really like your project, you can check the price of a remanufactured crank & camshaft....you may want to find another long block, you mentioned people rebuilding in the chassis, they did, they would loosen the mains, roll in new bearings, push in new pistons/rods etc....best of luck to you...GOD BLESS!!!!
Cam is junk, but couldn't really see the crank journals, didn't look bad. Clean it up with a little crocus cloth. It's a low rev diesel not a race engine. Usually the bearings are replaced without removing the crank, we "roll them in". See if you can find a cam, 30 over bearings and gaskets, should be good to go.
If the crank journals look good they can just polish it for you. They will tell you if it will work or not obviously but you may be able to just get it polished and away you go. Also for removing that crank, next time lay the engine down horizontal! You can take the crank out a lot easier! Definitely do this for install and remove that bell housing for sure. Cheers can't wait to see the next video! Great stuff!
I love the dozer and I hate seeing the abuse it’s been through, seems like it’s been from neglect and shotty mechanics! I hope you get it back together like it started from day one my friend! I enjoy your videos and the way you explain everything and don’t lose faith because from what I see you’re a good caring mechanic and those don’t come around often Matt! I pray you get some breaks and good news soon on your project, I believe the dozer is worth it! Thanks so much for sharing I believe you’re doing a great job brother! Stay safe my friend! 👌🏻👍🏻
You know what I might be tempted to try with this job? Just clean everything polish it up best you can (new bearings) and nothing else except what absolutely necessary.. just bolt it back together and run it. You KNOW it's going to run! ... maybe not great, but would be a nice experiment! Even if it failed somehow ... taking back apart and doing it over would be Childs paly after doing it the hard way already like this
I thought about that. The problem is that I'm on about 40 acres of some rough terrain and if this thing breaks down more than about 50 feet from the shop, the only way I'm getting it out is with another (bigger) dozer, or a Sikorsky.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Of course... good thinking .. an extraction team would cost as much as rebuilding it the right way (as long as you don't have to buy a new crank. ... I don't know how much research you've down .. but cranks can be spray wended to original dimensions, I've had it done on a Suzuki Samurai once when undersized bearings were not available yet (many years ago) EDIT" OK you know already! .. I wager it'll be cheaper than another crank!
I tend to agree! Clean, measure and replace bearings if you dont have massive wear or tapers of the diameters the bearings are sitting on . Its not an Indy car your going 300 mph. Your not going to put 500 miles on this when done. Most the problems are dirty or no oil. Only you can know how much cash you want to put into this engine!
I gotta say, I would never work on anything with that much mass without steel toe, my boots have saved me pain too many times to ignore the usefulness really (from grinders going rogue to plates crashing down) and I don't do anything too extreme at all. Everyone decides for themselves what they can handle at different risk levels, your own business, but I think it's really good you noticed and were thinking about it. Gotta stay healthy to keep the videos flowing at the very least haha
I agree with some of your commenters below, you should put new crankshaft bearings of the correct undersize on the crank and let it go at that. You could do a little polishing with crocus cloth if the journals need it. A few extra thousands play isn't going to make much difference for your engine. I would replace the camshaft it looks like toast to me. Out in the field, most heavy duty mechanics would drop the oil pan and replace the bearings and put it back together, remember you are working on a diesel engine not a Swiss watch. You having it in your shop makes you way ahead of someone laying on their back in the dirt. By the way, I love your dog!
Matt, this build/ rest is absolutely captivating me. I understand the comments at the end of this video but I also understand how when working on a project your attention and focus goes south when you become totally immersed in something you’re enjoying. So, you ve been ‘picked’ up by somebody from the health and safety brigade. The important part is that you saw your mistake first and acknowledged it. It’s a good pointer for all of us who dabble with stuff that give us a kick in the b****** s! The build and content is great your commentary is informative and enjoyable. Just keep it coming Matt!
hi have you thought of joining a CAT club, I inherited a D8 crawler with very similar issues, I joined a club and in the first 3 months I had access to all of the second hand and a few new old stock parts from contacts within the club. I was going to scrap the engine but now it is up and running fine. The second hand crank and cam were able to be machined to speck and the bearing shells were new old stock, most still available but they are easy to get made.
Here in Quebec I know there is a guy who make custom bearing, he re-grind the crankshaft just the minimum needed to clear the groove then cast new bearing , it come with a price but it’s not that expensive when you can’t find those part , It’s less expensive than a new crank and bearing, but more than sending it to get it done undersize with new bearings. I will try to find him this next week and give you his info .
I wish you a lot of luck on this. I would have the crank checked to make sure it is true and not cracked. If it is warped, that could have caused the crack in that main bearing in the center of the engine. That dozer must have led a hard life before you got it.
My second vehicle was a 1948 CJ2A. It was born the same year as I. Of course it didn’t work. Had to rebuild the transmission and transfer case. Bored it out and shaved the head but kept everything else stock. Got involved in some Jeep Jamborees in the Sierra. Great fun. Not nearly as much fun as you’re having though. Really enjoying your posts.
You are right in doing the overhaul the way that you are doing it. In a perfect world, having an engine stand strong enough to hold that engine would have been nice, but until you were able to get it stripped down, what you are doing is the only thing that you could have done. Unless you can rent a heavy enough engine stand for cheap or even free, saving the money and putting it into parts and workmanship is the best choice. Sad to see that you are 0.030 under on the crank. That is too bad. That is exactly what that 0.030 means on the backs of the races. Follow your instincts and have the crank measured by a reputable machine shop and checked for cracks. If it is within specs, polish it up with some crocus cloth, and just get 0.030 unders again and party on. However, the one thing that I would sorely be worried about is a bearing tuning in a journal in the block. Check to make sure that none of the stop tabs on the bearings have been sheared off. If they have, load up the block and have the same machine shop measure it too. What is particularly worrying is that crushed thrust bearing in the center that had the crack in it. If there is a bearing that turned in a journal, that is probably the one that turned. The crank may well be cracked at the same journal. I bet that machine was clattering when it was parked. As far as your cylinder head goes, I would have it checked for cracks as a matter of course. If it is cracked, the block most certainly will be and you should have it checked no matter if a race has turned in a journal or not. Are you going to grind the seats and the valves or are you going to have someone do it for you? If you do the cylinder head yourself, be advised that this is a delicate business. Cylinder heads were my specialty at one time. I think that I still have most of my old kit laying around somewhere. I did wear out my valve grinder though. It was a Sioux which was a great machine. I digress, anyway, like I said, cylinder heads are a delicate business. Do them wrong you will egg out a guide and start using oil in just 200 or 300 hours of operation or you will blow a seat out in no time flat and loose compression. Worse yet, the engine could suck a valve and well... The cam... well... check your budget. In my day, a lot of the current buildup technology was just being invented or had some years to go before it was invented. Now, I imagine with computer technology the current build up technologies are absolutely dependable. However, we had to be picky about what we had built up and reground. As I recall, the machine shops didn't seem to like cast shafts but would take steel shafts. How you tell is if you suspend the shaft and strike it with a steel hammer, a steel shaft will ring and a cast shaft will make a relatively dull thud. That was a Case Tractor trick to save money for the most part as I recall. I hope that you do have a budget worked out for this project. In my day, Cat was the one most expensive overhaul. A Cat overhaul could run as high as $10,000. Allis Chalmers was about 70% of that, but the trick was holding a final drive in an AC, which, in my humble opinion, is the reason that AC couldn't compete with Cat. I just Googled Caterpillar Salvage Yards, and there are many dedicated only to Cat and several dedicated to "vintage Cats" as one would suspect. Like I said, check you budget. Good luck and save your back!!! (And fingers) PS. The bearing races are not aluminum, they are steel coated with cadmium which is sensitive to the acid on your fingers, so when you go back, don't fingure the bearing faces.
A solid reply and one where you make valid observations on whther this D4 is worth spending another dollar on especially if the transmission is as damaged by water ingression as the engine has been. You can argue that using a donor engine might be the way to go, but until you strip that down you will have no real clue as to the condition on the inside of it which could see the same issues re-surfacing and thus eventually forcing you to bite the bullet and buy a remanufactured crankshaft.
There is a college degree trade school for diesel engine repair in Seattle Washington .They take in repair projects rebuild almost any size diesel in-house machine shop and heavy equipment rebuilding. A writer for ATHS took his Pete 359 to have his motor pulled,broke down,machined and reassembled,and installed in a cleaned prepped and plumbed engine bay.Short articles inWheels of Time/Sept-Oct,2020 Grant Minor.
Hello, great contenton this rebuild. Just some information for you to consider. The bearing shells are in fact steel backed, copper plated and then coated in white metal, and alot of what you think is scoring on the crank journals is in fact white metal from the rod bearing, so if you lap the journal with wet and dry paper and wd40 or similar you will be able to just put a new set of shells in the engine, remember the max engine revs is fairly low so you will have many hours of use from this crank. Keep up the great work!! and get some safety gear on!!😅
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For rusted parts use OSPHO....it turns iron oxide into iron phosphate which is inert. It works fast and thoroghly and is only abou 20 per gallon. Acts as a primer for paint also. Much better all around than Evaporust..
I welded up a steel cradle to set the motor block top down in the cradle and have 200 pound wheel bearings on cradle bottom to move around the shop //build your cradle 3 ich angel 1/4 inch thick
Think your into heavy equipment for sure. I remember picking up a head for my 3406e and they put it in the bed of my 1/2 ton truck. I was like wow. Squatted my bed pretty good. Great videos and stay safe. I bet you could get away with polishing that crank and new bearings.
After reading many of these comments, I'll be interested in what decisions you come to. The research is half the fun. Take care and don't let your wife watch these videos 😀.
there was a company in nashville tn that would repair any crankshaft back in the day and warranty it, i had a 4020 john deer spin a rod and crack in the throw, 750.00 and good as new, good luck in your search, camshaft will have to be repaired also, sikeston mo has a tractor salvage place that deals in all types of equipment,
to get sleeves out.........run beads of weld down the inside of the sleeves, flip the engine upside down. make a machined boss that sits in bottom hole of the sleeve and belt them out. The welding beads will shrink the sleeves and make them easy to get out.
Naw that is a wet sleeve engine. no welding necessary. A homemade sleeve puller madewith a large all thread will pull them. easy to pull. Original cat sleeves are very hard the hardly ever wear out. most hones will not do a thing to genuine cat liners. its the pistons and rings that wear out. or electrolisis will eat pinholes into them.
Before you spend another penny on this machine, you need to start thoroughly inspecting all the other components ! Trany, clutch and brake assembly's., pumps, Hyd, cylinders, final drives and undercarriage. To determine if it's "realistically" worth repairing.
You need to measure if the journals are oval. They wear vertically more due to how conrods deliver power to them. You need micrometer to see where you are at. Also you need to see if polishing is possible or if there are any grooves. Grooves really aren't that huge deal if there are no burs and they aren't that wide. Of course the clearance is generated with the bearings as the journals are ground to specific thickness, but you need plastigauge and new bearings to see those clearances. Crank might be on the worn side, but maybe not unusable. It depends what you want to do with the machine. Also for restoration purposes there might be special bearings for 0,4 or even 0,6 oversize. I restored an old BMC 5.1 OEB engine and it's conrod journals were oval and worn out of spec even past the last official bearing size. Last official size was 0,40 over size and I found 0,60 oversize bearings from EMMARK UK. They said the the 0,60 is because the crank is still fine to ground to this point and there are many engines that have crank rusted or spun bearing that 0,50 usually doesn't cut it so 0,60 always saves the day.
Yeah I'm going to be measuring and sharing the results on the journals soon... I'm taking 4 measurements per journal to get an idea of roundness. I took a break from the engine and checked everything else out after this video. Didn't want to spend a ton on the engine if the rest of the dozer was junk.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Understandable if the rest of the machine is worth saving then why do the engine. If you decide to use the crank and it's on the worn side of the spec or slightly over and still want to use it, it will work and thicker oil will definitely help. Then again it depends on how much rebuild you need to addition to the crank.
It's still quite common in better engine shops to spray weld or "throw" weld crank journals. I had one done a few years ago to build a crank back to original specs. About 1/3 the cost of buying a new crank for an old Allis. If you haven't tried them yet, Florin Tractor Parts in Sacramento, CA is a great resource for old stuff. I used to live about a mile from them and they were right across Florin Road from my Dad's favorite lumber store.
Interesting engine. Obviously the cam shaft is toast, but I am not so sure the crank is. Yes, there are places that can weld up the crank and return it to factory specks. But I don't see that option for the cam. As for the pistons and such, maybe you can have the block resleeved if that is an option. Pistons could be located or custom made if that cost isn't through the roof. JMHO!
I wish I could still do what your doing, I love taking stuff apart especially things I've never taking apart before. My first car was a 1947 Ford cope with the motor in peaces in the trunk LOL but I got it running it took forever, fun stuff.🙂
unless i heard the measurements wrong you might want to look at them again. to me i don't think the crank has been ground. the bearing that was cracked is probably had water in it & froze. let a machine shop look things over before you just toss parts.
Surely some company makes another size or two over for the bearings. Just because caterpillar doesn't have it in the service manual doesn't mean they can't be had.
Hang in there Matt. You have a lot of folks cheering you on. I was told not to lay a crank horizonal unless you support the main journals or it will warp.
@@ClintsHobbiesDIY LOL! I guess so! I never thought to try. We always had all our cranks standing on end if possible. I don't recall which one but one of the big Cat cranks, D9 I think, didn't have any flanges just snouts. We had an old front pulley on it to stand it up. Safety chained though mind you. Terry from South Carolina
Anything can be repaired, it’s just a matter of how much money you have to spend on it. I believe that bearing split because it had water in it and froze splitting the bearing. My German Shepards all come to check on me when they think I need to give them lovings.
The crank can be hard chrome back up and re-ground. Still be .030 under. The came can be re- ground and hard face weld. Not sure about the gear. Either way you go will cost you some bucks. Measure the journals and see if they are inpec. If so polish and get replacement bearings of the correct size
Safety FIRST and Common Sense good LUCK in your project. Patience is very important when one is working with heavy machinery be safe and not sorry ,God Bless !!
I think finding the bearings will be biggest challenge when it comes machine work on the crank. Have you considered the possible condition of the drive system? Did water get in the transmission and final gear drive? This could turn into a very long event. I’m 2 years into a CJ5 rebuild I thought would take 4-5 months. Best of luck
I need a shop dog like yours. Yeah, wrenching on old iron has its risks for sure. You may get lucky and find an old CAT out there somewhere that has a broken transmission or final drives, but has a good engine.
You may only need to polish the crank and go with new bearings. Check very carefully. Usually it is only the bearings that wear significantly. The cracked bearing may indicate a bent crank. Your little piggies would have been hamburger. Good Luck, Rick
If you find someone that has the equipment to weld up the crank and cam to rehab the journals, it might pay you dividends to seek out the bearing sets you'll need before the journal grinding work is done. You may be limited as to what bearing sizes can still be found, grinding the crank for a standard bearing will not work If all you can find is .020 or .030 bearings after it's been done.
the case hardening on the camshaft is too badly pitted ! = some cranks can be spray welded ! but should be lot`s of good used parts all over a few channels rebuild catapillar motors = just for fun ! = good video and thank you !
Next time if that ever happens to a finger nail Heat up one end of a paperclip red hot and use it to melt a hole in the nail where it is black it is much less painful also do it as soon as the black shows less chance of loosing the nail
Don't be to hard on yourself. First time I was crushed under a truck was when I was 18. Went into basic training with the marks from the rear axle spring u bolts in my back. My left index finger had mostly healed from getting tore up in a vw rabbit flywheel.
It is also of my opinion why large machines get left behind in the woods. I believe when people find them, that the previous owners went broke or that reasonable mechanical issues were not attainable due to remote locations. Money talks and bullshit walks. If these machines had more life left, they would never have been abandoned. Their are just so many times things including crank shafts can be turned....imagine how many times this D4 got taken apart...but it was worth it ..back then..a new D4 in the 60's 70's way greater than rebuilding a 1950 D4....what you found in the woods was a completely used up piece of heavy iron. Looks like you have time, money, and energy to have at it all. Just don't be all absorbed and forget your family around you...
Make sure you check the water housings above cam gear, looks like water/ coolant has been deipping on cam gear and and made its way thru engine. Thanks for video.
Seems to me that we have a couple of Diesel 40 cranks and possibly a cam that were re-chromed. Guess that was a way of doing it. Frankly, you could probably put it back together and it would run forever. No, I would not do that either. Have you joined ACMOC yet? The classified are a good place to locate parts.
Might want to price out New Old Stock (NOS) parts as well as seeking advice from a reputable machine shop. I've worked on older Cat's and found the best strategy (at least for me) is some machine shop work and some new parts. My rule of thumb: If I'm only saving 10-15% by going with a machine shop I'll opt for NOS parts. Btw... I've had the best luck working with Milton Caterpillar in Batavia, NY when it comes to sourcing NOS parts for older Cat equipment.
You are doing a brilliant job very entertaining like you played cars all my life but this is certainly a step up take care looking forward to more video
See what's in the oil pump ,bearing has been chewing on something and only way in is through oil pump and pickup. The bearings have been spinning in the caps too.Loctite bearing and sleeve would help or center punch trick.Cummings ,Detroit,or older 4cyl ,case ,JD,Oliver might have bearings . There is a book called Farm Show and they have articles on engine swaps as well as kits for the swaps .
Looks like that engine had a lack of oil problem . Either start up and run with low oil . Or desiel in the oil . Clean it up put it back together and run heavy weight oil in it . Only rev it to 70% of max power. Drive it till it drops and pass it on .
Cam is no good but I think the crank is fine. Get some new .030 bearings and go. Most of this engine can probably be cleaned and reassembled. I’m may be a little sloppy but you’re not going to be running it all day every day for the next 10 years.
So what is the condition of the Transmission ?, if it is full of water, I'm guessing that you may wish to look for a running machine, I think that one has been parked in a body of water for some time, it may be a good parts dozer, for you or some one else.
Matt, New subscriber, binge watched your D4 work. (Laid up until March due to foot surgery.) Sad to say crank, cam, bearings, connecting rods, and gears look to be toast. You might want to try contacting Squatch253. He's rebuilding a '39 D2 from the grousers up. Very meticulous in his work but his work is excellent. He also may be able to point you towards good parts. Please put at least work boots on if not steel toes. My steel toes let me walk away after a City bus ran them over. #40k over my left foot and nothing broken. Safety is no accident. Good luck.
There is a fellow TH-camr named Adam Booth, who goes by Abom79, who owns and operates a machine shop in Pensacola, FL. He does quite a bit of work building up deteriorated bearing journals and similar parts using spray welding, followed by turning to correct size in a lathe. He appears to enjoy helping hobbyists restoring antique machinery.
Yes!!! I agree!!! Check out ABOM79 channel!!! Here is a link to the most current project he is doing w/ spray welding to repair a shaft journal. th-cam.com/video/pWUewFnLHIo/w-d-xo.html
I came here to say pretty much the same thing. Adam probably could put you in touch with another spray welder if he can't take it on. Maybe even another YT creator who could use your help in return.
Abom's most recent post is of repair of scored journals on a piece of machinery using spray welding.
I'm familiar with spray welding. It seems to be used on balanced rotating shafts. I'm not sure how well it would work on DIESEL engine bearings. There is a lot of sudden force when the fuel lights off. That is why they are so noisy. If anyone would know it would be Adam Booth. I sure hope that Matt can find a reasonably priced solution. Googling spray welding of crankshafts yields some interesting but likely expensive processes. Submerged arc seems to be the way to go.
I think this 40/40 under crank is too far gone for the spray welding if I understood what Adam was saying about this subject in several vids he posted but it would be worth the ask to actually find out for sure.
the bit as the end was such valuable advice. when I pulled the head off my 3-71 Detroit, I was simply stunned at the shear weight of the relatively small head. It seemed to be +200 lbs.
So many people speak in terms of protecting your self from an accident. Your advice on recognizing how an accident COULD happen and taking actions to prevent the accident from ever occurring are golden words. More people should learn such ideas.
It's rebuildable - you just need money. I rebuilt my D2 crank, just a slightly smaller version of what you have, about 6 years ago. Just cut it down to 030, except for the front journal that I had spray-welded back up to standard.I've had every single nut and bolt and component off my machine so am well-acquainted with what's feasible. I would guess it's taken about 10k so far including new undercarriage - not worth it from a "get my money back" perspective but totally worth it as a hobby
I have worked in the energy sector my whole life, rebuilt Waukesha, Cat, Cummins, and MOPARS. You seem to be new at this and that is why I love your channel! You go into it headlong, I love to see a person take on something uncomfortable to them. I don’t know what kind of comments you get but please disregard the hate trolls! Keep up the good work, keep learning! It’s people like you, South Main Auto, Mustie 1, SV Seeker and James Condon that teach and motivate people to get it done!
I have been following James for a couple years he is amazing! Thank for mentioning the other TH-camrs I will check them out.
I would pay good money to watch a reaction video of Squatch's face as Hillbilly goes through this rebuild. Keep at it Hillbilly, the path you have chosen looks to be a steep one with lots of jolts along the way. Keeping my fingers crossed for you, and looking forward to the day you can fire this old CAT back up and go play.
I can already imagine Squatch's eye twitching watching these video's
@@56PapaBear56 Squatch has a much more positive take on fold over locks...
Forgot to mention this, but yes I know about Squatch253's channel. In fact I watched many of his videos after seeing the Craigslist listing, but before I decided to go look at this machine to buy, just to get an idea of how feasible it is as a project.
He definitely knows what he is doing and makes this stuff look easy...he could probably rebuild this D4 blindfolded in the pouring rain, or at least would have had the common sense to send this project on down the road to some other sucker (like me).
Stuff looks easy thru a vid screen. Been wrenching for 44 yrs. I don't make my living as such. So take my comments with some direction toward the oldest guy in the machine/engine build shop.. He can look your parts over and give you a quick yes or no. Now I am the guy who never listens to anyone - but lets my mind wander in thinking up a solution. First - I was a gent who did not have a lot of money, so I used shim stock and files and plasti-gauge. The Crank journals are first. Use the original bearings and get a measurement.
--- Cam - use 1000 grit wet dry paper. polish the cam - use Popsicle sticks to adjust the pressure against the oil gear teeth. use 10/30 oil. Toilet paper to clean it off and set it up and
1000 - will not harm the cam. Polish only the cam bearing surfaces - and the lobes. I cut the wet-paper in 11 inch strip. That way you can have a long slow ribbon covering more than 180 degrees.
At most - replacing all the bearings might be the way to refresh the engine. I am a efficient builder - I just dont use most services. Shim stock and a file - A vernier caliper down to "1000 of an inch".
When I am doing this work - I accept a measurement larger that the "acceptable" or "desirable." I am a part- owner of a D4 - 1949. Cheers to you Sir!
@@mpccenturion I dont like spend money. However his cam is junk no amount of wet sanding and attempt at polishing is going to make it usable.
Those can be welded and reground I've had many done at my local engine rebuild shop
You might could get get some oversized bearing but you have to find an old hillbilly type parts manager knows how to get them parts cross matched these new guys just punch numbers in a computer and that's all they know
Well, Squatch has been rebuilding these old tractors for quite a while, and I doubt he would send off an unusable project to an sucker, he's just too nice and honest to do something like that. I suspect either you would know exactly what you were getting into, or it would end up in his 'parts pile' for a bit for anything salvagable before being scrapped completely.
For me, the reason your videos are so good is that you provide context for each thing you do so even the novice (like me) can follow what you're doing and why it is necessary. Some other TH-camrs don't explain the why's in enough detail.
The fact you're hitting some fundamental issues in these videos is also very instructive to a novice like me on the pitfalls/ possibilities when buying used kit to restore. Looking forward to more installments.
Cheers.
Howdy Sir.
A tip I picked up from Steves small engine saloon is to use toilet bowl cleaner instead of evapo-rust. It works a whole lot better and cost about 1/10th of the eco friendly evapo rust.
Keep up the good work.
I love the spectrum of advice: from boat anchor to just sand it out. Can’t wait to see the result. I’m on the edge of my seat with respect and sending you encouragement. Best Regards
The reason you can only do two regrinds is the thickness of the case hardening on the journals..
However, upon the third regrind you have to reharden the crankshaft by placing it ( if i remember correctly) in an oven at 400 degrees for 24 hours whilst bathing it in ammonia gas. This produces a case hardening of between 19 and 25 thou ( enough for two more regrinds ...).
Usually commercial seaports have engineering companies than can case harden large crankshafts.
Ever since I saw the movie Faces Of Death where the guy in the junk yard was removing a disk brake without properly securing the car and it fell on his leg severing it...then he died...I have taken GREAT pains to secure anything over my body especially vehicles...I will never forget that scene or the results.
Arc submersion welding is what is generally used to rebuild crank/cam shafts. Finish hardness is critical, as is material cool down. Go with the shop that has the best rep in your area.
the shaft & crank looks like a project for Abom79 😎
... and his Terodyne
I was thinking the SAME thing..
Matt, TH-cam randomly added one of your D4 videos today and I’m hooked. I subscribed and binge watched’ em all. The project is cool and I like your presentation style. Keep the videos coming and be safe.
"Jump like a Willys in four wheel drive..." - Jerry Garcia
I enjoy your filming.
I love watching the reveals on the D4. Lots of unexpected! It's a history of a 71 year old earth mover and the countless times this expensive machine has been repaired. Lots of money and time over 70 years and you are continuing life for another 70 years for this D4.....jusrfult don't spend more time with the Cat than with your family and your wonderful GS dog companion....
Keep persevering mate. It may seem daunting but you will figure it out and the satisfaction once done will be worth it.
PS Get some steel capped boots.
I'm excited about your comment and you are really amazine hope you are having a wonderful time in your life🌹
Sometimes there is no point in throwing good money after bad. You might consider taking the trans cover off or trans covers off it it has the newer two piece one. and inspect the trans gears bevel pinion and steering clutches. Then decide if you still want to put the dollars into this machine to get it back in service? It might be less costly to buy another D4 and use this one for parts. If you can find one that runs and the undercarrage is worn out they sell real cheap. and you could swap your tracks and parts on it.
I came across this series and I’m hooked. I have a 50+ year old JD450 that I really don’t need but fell in love with. An old bulldozer isn’t a project it’s an obsession. If you don’t cut corners and do it right that machine will last forever.
I’m pretty sure you can get the crank repaired but I don’t know about the cam. Cam lobes are pretty hard. You might also want to pull the cylinder sleeves to make sure they are ok. I believe they can suffer damage on the coolant side from cavitation. Unlike a gas engine, diesels are designed to be rebuilt over and over.
Thanks for posting this series. I look forward to each episode.
What a shame that someone put all that time and money into rebuilding that motor, who knows when and than for whatever reason, just parked it. Well, the great news is, now you have it and in the not so near future, you are going to have a 1950 D4 Cat Dozer that will outlast your grand kids!. Love the channel and love this series! HOOAH!!!
It's a great machine keep at it. Over tighten bolts won't crack a bearing. Cracks are normally from flexing bending. Is the block warped? Put a straight edge down all mains to see if they are in line. Left to right.
Hey Matt, really like your project, you can check the price of a remanufactured crank & camshaft....you may want to find another long block, you mentioned people rebuilding in the chassis, they did, they would loosen the mains, roll in new bearings, push in new pistons/rods etc....best of luck to you...GOD BLESS!!!!
Cam is junk, but couldn't really see the crank journals, didn't look bad. Clean it up with a little crocus cloth. It's a low rev diesel not a race engine. Usually the bearings are replaced without removing the crank, we "roll them in". See if you can find a cam, 30 over bearings and gaskets, should be good to go.
thats one hell of a job youve inherited there
If the crank journals look good they can just polish it for you. They will tell you if it will work or not obviously but you may be able to just get it polished and away you go. Also for removing that crank, next time lay the engine down horizontal! You can take the crank out a lot easier! Definitely do this for install and remove that bell housing for sure.
Cheers can't wait to see the next video! Great stuff!
I love the dozer and I hate seeing the abuse it’s been through, seems like it’s been from neglect and shotty mechanics! I hope you get it back together like it started from day one my friend! I enjoy your videos and the way you explain everything and don’t lose faith because from what I see you’re a good caring mechanic and those don’t come around often Matt! I pray you get some breaks and good news soon on your project, I believe the dozer is worth it! Thanks so much for sharing I believe you’re doing a great job brother! Stay safe my friend! 👌🏻👍🏻
This gives a whole new meaning to the saying "Balls Deep" my god what a project.
You know what I might be tempted to try with this job?
Just clean everything polish it up best you can (new bearings) and nothing else except what absolutely necessary.. just bolt it back together and run it.
You KNOW it's going to run! ... maybe not great, but would be a nice experiment!
Even if it failed somehow ... taking back apart and doing it over would be Childs paly after doing it the hard way already like this
I thought about that. The problem is that I'm on about 40 acres of some rough terrain and if this thing breaks down more than about 50 feet from the shop, the only way I'm getting it out is with another (bigger) dozer, or a Sikorsky.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Of course... good thinking .. an extraction team would cost as much as rebuilding it the right way (as long as you don't have to buy a new crank. ...
I don't know how much research you've down .. but cranks can be spray wended to original dimensions, I've had it done on a Suzuki Samurai once when undersized bearings were not available yet (many years ago) EDIT" OK you know already! .. I wager it'll be cheaper than another crank!
I tend to agree! Clean, measure and replace bearings if you dont have massive wear or tapers of the diameters the bearings are sitting on . Its not an Indy car your going 300 mph. Your not going to put 500 miles on this when done. Most the problems are dirty or no oil. Only you can know how much cash you want to put into this engine!
I agree , polish and put togeteher. Only run it for 30min. I am no expert. But only using it short time will prevent heat buildup in bearings.
I gotta say, I would never work on anything with that much mass without steel toe, my boots have saved me pain too many times to ignore the usefulness really (from grinders going rogue to plates crashing down) and I don't do anything too extreme at all.
Everyone decides for themselves what they can handle at different risk levels, your own business, but I think it's really good you noticed and were thinking about it. Gotta stay healthy to keep the videos flowing at the very least haha
The dowel pin should be one of the flywheel housing alignment pins. You can see the empty hole in the video when loosening the housing.
Wow i never seen a bearing do that either, that is the thrust bearing that be a. Interesting investigation
I agree with some of your commenters below, you should put new crankshaft bearings of the correct undersize on the crank and let it go at that. You could do a little polishing with crocus cloth if the journals need it. A few extra thousands play isn't going to make much difference for your engine. I would replace the camshaft it looks like toast to me. Out in the field, most heavy duty mechanics would drop the oil pan and replace the bearings and put it back together, remember you are working on a diesel engine not a Swiss watch. You having it in your shop makes you way ahead of someone laying on their back in the dirt. By the way, I love your dog!
Matt, this build/ rest is absolutely captivating me. I understand the comments at the end of this video but I also understand how when working on a project your attention and focus goes south when you become totally immersed in something you’re enjoying. So, you ve been ‘picked’ up by somebody from the health and safety brigade. The important part is that you saw your mistake first and acknowledged it. It’s a good pointer for all of us who dabble with stuff that give us a kick in the b****** s!
The build and content is great your commentary is informative and enjoyable. Just keep it coming Matt!
hi have you thought of joining a CAT club, I inherited a D8 crawler with very similar issues, I joined a club and in the first 3 months I had access to all of the second hand and a few new old stock parts from contacts within the club. I was going to scrap the engine but now it is up and running fine. The second hand crank and cam were able to be machined to speck and the bearing shells were new old stock, most still available but they are easy to get made.
Klicked for the dog, came for the content.
Here in Quebec I know there is a guy who make custom bearing, he re-grind the crankshaft just the minimum needed to clear the groove then cast new bearing , it come with a price but it’s not that expensive when you can’t find those part ,
It’s less expensive than a new crank and bearing, but more than sending it to get it done undersize with new bearings.
I will try to find him this next week and give you his info .
You have my major respect. I get antsy just trying to rebuild a lawnmower engine!
I wish you a lot of luck on this. I would have the crank checked to make sure it is true and not cracked. If it is warped, that could have caused the crack in that main bearing in the center of the engine. That dozer must have led a hard life before you got it.
My second vehicle was a 1948 CJ2A. It was born the same year as I. Of course it didn’t work. Had to rebuild the transmission and transfer case. Bored it out and shaved the head but kept everything else stock. Got involved in some Jeep Jamborees in the Sierra. Great fun. Not nearly as much fun as you’re having though. Really enjoying your posts.
You are right in doing the overhaul the way that you are doing it. In a perfect world, having an engine stand strong enough to hold that engine would have been nice, but until you were able to get it stripped down, what you are doing is the only thing that you could have done. Unless you can rent a heavy enough engine stand for cheap or even free, saving the money and putting it into parts and workmanship is the best choice.
Sad to see that you are 0.030 under on the crank. That is too bad. That is exactly what that 0.030 means on the backs of the races. Follow your instincts and have the crank measured by a reputable machine shop and checked for cracks. If it is within specs, polish it up with some crocus cloth, and just get 0.030 unders again and party on. However, the one thing that I would sorely be worried about is a bearing tuning in a journal in the block. Check to make sure that none of the stop tabs on the bearings have been sheared off. If they have, load up the block and have the same machine shop measure it too. What is particularly worrying is that crushed thrust bearing in the center that had the crack in it. If there is a bearing that turned in a journal, that is probably the one that turned. The crank may well be cracked at the same journal. I bet that machine was clattering when it was parked.
As far as your cylinder head goes, I would have it checked for cracks as a matter of course. If it is cracked, the block most certainly will be and you should have it checked no matter if a race has turned in a journal or not. Are you going to grind the seats and the valves or are you going to have someone do it for you? If you do the cylinder head yourself, be advised that this is a delicate business. Cylinder heads were my specialty at one time. I think that I still have most of my old kit laying around somewhere. I did wear out my valve grinder though. It was a Sioux which was a great machine. I digress, anyway, like I said, cylinder heads are a delicate business. Do them wrong you will egg out a guide and start using oil in just 200 or 300 hours of operation or you will blow a seat out in no time flat and loose compression. Worse yet, the engine could suck a valve and well...
The cam... well... check your budget. In my day, a lot of the current buildup technology was just being invented or had some years to go before it was invented. Now, I imagine with computer technology the current build up technologies are absolutely dependable. However, we had to be picky about what we had built up and reground. As I recall, the machine shops didn't seem to like cast shafts but would take steel shafts. How you tell is if you suspend the shaft and strike it with a steel hammer, a steel shaft will ring and a cast shaft will make a relatively dull thud. That was a Case Tractor trick to save money for the most part as I recall.
I hope that you do have a budget worked out for this project. In my day, Cat was the one most expensive overhaul. A Cat overhaul could run as high as $10,000. Allis Chalmers was about 70% of that, but the trick was holding a final drive in an AC, which, in my humble opinion, is the reason that AC couldn't compete with Cat.
I just Googled Caterpillar Salvage Yards, and there are many dedicated only to Cat and several dedicated to "vintage Cats" as one would suspect. Like I said, check you budget. Good luck and save your back!!! (And fingers)
PS. The bearing races are not aluminum, they are steel coated with cadmium which is sensitive to the acid on your fingers, so when you go back, don't fingure the bearing faces.
A solid reply and one where you make valid observations on whther this D4 is worth spending another dollar on especially if the transmission is as damaged by water ingression as the engine has been.
You can argue that using a donor engine might be the way to go, but until you strip that down you will have no real clue as to the condition on the inside of it which could see the same issues re-surfacing and thus eventually forcing you to bite the bullet and buy a remanufactured crankshaft.
Depending on how much buildup is needed you might be able to have the crank hard-chromed and ground back to size.
There is a college degree trade school for diesel engine repair in Seattle Washington .They take in repair projects rebuild almost any size diesel in-house machine shop and heavy equipment rebuilding. A writer for ATHS took his Pete 359 to have his motor pulled,broke down,machined and reassembled,and installed in a cleaned prepped and plumbed engine bay.Short articles inWheels of Time/Sept-Oct,2020 Grant Minor.
Hello, great contenton this rebuild.
Just some information for you to consider.
The bearing shells are in fact steel backed, copper plated and then coated in white metal, and alot of what you think is scoring on the crank journals is in fact white metal from the rod bearing, so if you lap the journal with wet and dry paper and wd40 or similar you will be able to just put a new set of shells in the engine, remember the max engine revs is fairly low so you will have many hours of use from this crank.
Keep up the great work!! and get some safety gear on!!😅
For rusted parts use OSPHO....it turns iron oxide into iron phosphate which is inert. It works fast and thoroghly and is only abou 20 per gallon. Acts as a primer for paint also. Much better all around than Evaporust..
I welded up a steel cradle to set the motor block top down in the cradle and have 200 pound wheel bearings on cradle bottom to move around the shop //build your cradle 3 ich angel 1/4 inch thick
Think your into heavy equipment for sure. I remember picking up a head for my 3406e and they put it in the bed of my 1/2 ton truck. I was like wow. Squatted my bed pretty good. Great videos and stay safe. I bet you could get away with polishing that crank and new bearings.
After reading many of these comments, I'll be interested in what decisions you come to. The research is half the fun. Take care and don't let your wife watch these videos 😀.
love the dog - we lost ours - sadley missed
there was a company in nashville tn that would repair any crankshaft back in the day and warranty it, i had a 4020 john deer spin a rod and crack in the throw, 750.00 and good as new, good luck in your search, camshaft will have to be repaired also, sikeston mo has a tractor salvage place that deals in all types of equipment,
to get sleeves out.........run beads of weld down the inside of the sleeves, flip the engine upside down. make a machined boss that sits in bottom hole of the sleeve and belt them out. The welding beads will shrink the sleeves and make them easy to get out.
Naw that is a wet sleeve engine. no welding necessary. A homemade sleeve puller madewith a large all thread will pull them. easy to pull. Original cat sleeves are very hard the hardly ever wear out. most hones will not do a thing to genuine cat liners. its the pistons and rings that wear out. or electrolisis will eat pinholes into them.
Before you spend another penny on this machine, you need to start thoroughly inspecting all the other components ! Trany, clutch and brake assembly's., pumps, Hyd, cylinders, final drives and undercarriage. To determine if it's "realistically" worth repairing.
You need to measure if the journals are oval. They wear vertically more due to how conrods deliver power to them. You need micrometer to see where you are at. Also you need to see if polishing is possible or if there are any grooves. Grooves really aren't that huge deal if there are no burs and they aren't that wide.
Of course the clearance is generated with the bearings as the journals are ground to specific thickness, but you need plastigauge and new bearings to see those clearances.
Crank might be on the worn side, but maybe not unusable. It depends what you want to do with the machine.
Also for restoration purposes there might be special bearings for 0,4 or even 0,6 oversize.
I restored an old BMC 5.1 OEB engine and it's conrod journals were oval and worn out of spec even past the last official bearing size. Last official size was 0,40 over size and I found 0,60 oversize bearings from EMMARK UK. They said the the 0,60 is because the crank is still fine to ground to this point and there are many engines that have crank rusted or spun bearing that 0,50 usually doesn't cut it so 0,60 always saves the day.
Yeah I'm going to be measuring and sharing the results on the journals soon... I'm taking 4 measurements per journal to get an idea of roundness. I took a break from the engine and checked everything else out after this video. Didn't want to spend a ton on the engine if the rest of the dozer was junk.
@@PacificNorthwestHillbilly Understandable if the rest of the machine is worth saving then why do the engine.
If you decide to use the crank and it's on the worn side of the spec or slightly over and still want to use it, it will work and thicker oil will definitely help.
Then again it depends on how much rebuild you need to addition to the crank.
I'm no machinist, but what about spray welding where they can build surfaces back up and then machine them down from there?
The Abom79 special.
It's still quite common in better engine shops to spray weld or "throw" weld crank journals. I had one done a few years ago to build a crank back to original specs. About 1/3 the cost of buying a new crank for an old Allis. If you haven't tried them yet, Florin Tractor Parts in Sacramento, CA is a great resource for old stuff. I used to live about a mile from them and they were right across Florin Road from my Dad's favorite lumber store.
X2 on Florin !
Spray weld, I wouldn't. Clean and new bearings.
I'm excited about your comment and you are really amazine hope you are having a wonderful time in your life🌹
Interesting engine. Obviously the cam shaft is toast, but I am not so sure the crank is. Yes, there are places that can weld up the crank and return it to factory specks. But I don't see that option for the cam. As for the pistons and such, maybe you can have the block resleeved if that is an option. Pistons could be located or custom made if that cost isn't through the roof. JMHO!
I wish I could still do what your doing, I love taking stuff apart especially things I've never taking apart before. My first car was a 1947 Ford cope with the motor in peaces in the trunk LOL but I got it running it took forever, fun stuff.🙂
unless i heard the measurements wrong you might want to look at them again. to me i don't think the crank has been ground. the bearing that was cracked is probably had water in it & froze. let a machine shop look things over before you just toss parts.
Clean crank and carefully mic the diameters 3 spots for each location !
Surely some company makes another size or two over for the bearings. Just because caterpillar doesn't have it in the service manual doesn't mean they can't be had.
Your videos are awesome Matt! I look forward to seeing what comes next.
Hang in there Matt. You have a lot of folks cheering you on.
I was told not to lay a crank horizonal unless you support the main journals or it will warp.
Correct, but that cracked bearing shell gives a clue that it is probably already bent.
Keep it standing on end. Drop it back on the flywheel with a couple of bolts. Tie it to the wall just in case.
Terry from South Carolina
@@einfelder8262 I hadn't thought of that. It could be so.
@@terryfromsouthcarolina4601 Could hanging it by one end do the same?
@@ClintsHobbiesDIY LOL! I guess so! I never thought to try. We always had all our cranks standing on end if possible. I don't recall which one but one of the big Cat cranks, D9 I think, didn't have any flanges just snouts. We had an old front pulley on it to stand it up. Safety chained though mind you.
Terry from South Carolina
Anything can be repaired, it’s just a matter of how much money you have to spend on it. I believe that bearing split because it had water in it and froze splitting the bearing. My German Shepards all come to check on me when they think I need to give them lovings.
The crank can be hard chrome back up and re-ground. Still be .030 under. The came can be re- ground and hard face weld. Not sure about the gear. Either way you go will cost you some bucks. Measure the journals and see if they are inpec. If so polish and get replacement bearings of the correct size
I believe you could do a shoe string polish on the crankshaft and it would be fine.
Safety FIRST and Common Sense good LUCK in your project. Patience is very important when one is working with heavy machinery be safe and not sorry ,God Bless !!
Keep at it, you will learn a lot and so will we. It is a huge project, I wish you the best.
I think finding the bearings will be biggest challenge when it comes machine work on the crank. Have you considered the possible condition of the drive system? Did water get in the transmission and final gear drive? This could turn into a very long event. I’m 2 years into a CJ5 rebuild I thought would take 4-5 months. Best of luck
I'm excited about your comment and you are really amazine hope you are having a wonderful time in your life🌹
We need Charlie in every vid! (At least at the end)
I need a shop dog like yours. Yeah, wrenching on old iron has its risks for sure. You may get lucky and find an old CAT out there somewhere that has a broken transmission or final drives, but has a good engine.
You may only need to polish the crank and go with new bearings. Check very carefully. Usually it is only the bearings that wear significantly. The cracked bearing may indicate a bent crank. Your little piggies would have been hamburger. Good Luck, Rick
If you find someone that has the equipment to weld up the crank and cam to rehab the journals, it might pay you dividends to seek out the bearing sets you'll need before the journal grinding work is done. You may be limited as to what bearing sizes can still be found, grinding the crank for a standard bearing will not work If all you can find is .020 or .030 bearings after it's been done.
Any cracks in the coolant jackets? From freezing without antifreeze. That has killed a lot of tractor engines.
my dad did a in frame on his d 4 supported the front and took out the big spring .
the case hardening on the camshaft is too badly pitted ! = some cranks can be spray welded ! but should be lot`s of good used parts all over a few channels rebuild catapillar motors = just for fun ! = good video and thank you !
Next time if that ever happens to a finger nail
Heat up one end of a paperclip red hot and use it to melt a hole
in the nail where it is black
it is much less painful
also do it as soon as the black shows
less chance of loosing the nail
Don't be to hard on yourself. First time I was crushed under a truck was when I was 18. Went into basic training with the marks from the rear axle spring u bolts in my back. My left index finger had mostly healed from getting tore up in a vw rabbit flywheel.
It is also of my opinion why large machines get left behind in the woods. I believe when people find them, that the previous owners went broke or that reasonable mechanical issues were not attainable due to remote locations. Money talks and bullshit walks. If these machines had more life left, they would never have been abandoned. Their are just so many times things including crank shafts can be turned....imagine how many times this D4 got taken apart...but it was worth it ..back then..a new D4 in the 60's 70's way greater than rebuilding a 1950 D4....what you found in the woods was a completely used up piece of heavy iron. Looks like you have time, money, and energy to have at it all. Just don't be all absorbed and forget your family around you...
Make sure you check the water housings above cam gear, looks like water/ coolant has been deipping on cam gear and and made its way thru engine.
Thanks for video.
Seems to me that we have a couple of Diesel 40 cranks and possibly a cam that were re-chromed. Guess that was a way of doing it. Frankly, you could probably put it back together and it would run forever. No, I would not do that either. Have you joined ACMOC yet? The classified are a good place to locate parts.
The center bearing is the thrust bearing, it probley had too much end play that cracked the bearing
Glad i found you channel, I don't know if it helps much, but I will we commenting and giving thumbs up.
Might want to price out New Old Stock (NOS) parts as well as seeking advice from a reputable machine shop. I've worked on older Cat's and found the best strategy (at least for me) is some machine shop work and some new parts. My rule of thumb: If I'm only saving 10-15% by going with a machine shop I'll opt for NOS parts. Btw... I've had the best luck working with Milton Caterpillar in Batavia, NY when it comes to sourcing NOS parts for older Cat equipment.
You are doing a brilliant job very entertaining like you played cars all my life but this is certainly a step up take care looking forward to more video
Loving this series! Too bad you didn't give the Z a little love before blocking it in.
Dam the luck! If it weren't for bad luck with this project, you'd have no luck at all, it seems!
The crank is cut .030 , Polish the jurnals and put in a new set of bearings, then pray.
See what's in the oil pump ,bearing has been chewing on something and only way in is through oil pump and pickup. The bearings have been spinning in the caps too.Loctite bearing and sleeve would help or center punch trick.Cummings ,Detroit,or older 4cyl ,case ,JD,Oliver might have bearings . There is a book called Farm Show and they have articles on engine swaps as well as kits for the swaps .
Looks like that engine had a lack of oil problem . Either start up and run with low oil . Or desiel in the oil . Clean it up put it back together and run heavy weight oil in it . Only rev it to 70% of max power. Drive it till it drops and pass it on .
I've seen a few engines with the front main wiped out because of a front hydraulic pump...the crankshaft don't appear to be to bad..
Cam is no good but I think the crank is fine. Get some new .030 bearings and go. Most of this engine can probably be cleaned and reassembled. I’m may be a little sloppy but you’re not going to be running it all day every day for the next 10 years.
Pretty sure this crank is 40/40 under now. They dont make them any more than that.
Its called spray welding. It builds the crank journals back up. I dont think you'll need that. New bearings and plasti guage to check. good luck.
Love the work, great safety tips at the end. Good advice for us amateurs. Don't give up! Stay safe.
So what is the condition of the Transmission ?, if it is full of water, I'm guessing that you may wish to look for a running machine, I think that one has been parked in a body of water for some time, it may be a good parts dozer, for you or some one else.
I appreciate your video's, Thank you for sharing.
Flywheel case is called a Bell housing
Matt,
New subscriber, binge watched your D4 work. (Laid up until March due to foot surgery.)
Sad to say crank, cam, bearings, connecting rods, and gears look to be toast.
You might want to try contacting Squatch253. He's rebuilding a '39 D2 from the grousers up. Very meticulous in his work but his work is excellent. He also may be able to point you towards good parts.
Please put at least work boots on if not steel toes. My steel toes let me walk away after a City bus ran them over. #40k over my left foot and nothing broken. Safety is no accident.
Good luck.
That cam is WELL past toast.
Matt, your videos are great. Just keep going it will turn out great.
The machine shop can polish it and it will be ok if you put new bearings you will do just fine