After fully draining and changing the filter, confidently put 4.5 quarts in this engine. It won't be overfilled. After starting it up and checking for leaks, it's best to wait a couple minutes and then check the level. The reading you want to get on the dipstick is after virtually all the oil has settled back into the pan. I would also avoid blowing into the valve cover. There's no benefit, and the more likely outcome is dirt and grit being blown into the engine.
No major issues. The front right speaker was crackling so Acura replaced it at no charge, it was under warranty. The big ticket items were basic maintenance related, changed rear breaks twice, tires, & battery. Don't be surprised if it feels like you're changing your rear breaks after 25,000 miles. We haven't needed to changed the front yet but already changed the back brakes twice. Acura shop and our local brake shop both said these TSX wears the rear break pads faster. Hope that helps.
I have the same car. There is so much fail in this video. 1) Buy ramps at the auto parts store. They are much easier and safer than using the car jack and jack stands. 2) Oil bucket should not be lined with a plastic bag. You have to throw that bag away and it just creates a mess. Just use an waste oil container. 3) The car comes with an aluminum crush washer on the drain plug. These are one time use only and need replaced at every oil change. In your video you didn't even use a crush washer at all !!! 4) Use latex gloves or similar on your hands at every oil change. Used oil is carcinogenic. Also makes clean up a BREEZE. 5) You tighten the oil filter "as far as you can" and than back off a quarter turn. Um, no. You are compressing the oil gasket and than uncompressing it. This is a complete fail. Just tighten it until its tight. Don't loosen it. Your way of doing it is a recipe for leaks.
Lot's of work in this video! Very detailed. This is how to do a youtube.com video! I'm so tired of the "certified mastered mechanics" that do lame videos. It takes real people like this man. Thank you!
I have an 05 TSX and there is a simple plastic flap you take off to drain the oil. It has one bolt. Weird that they decided to go with covering with a huge shield on the newer ones. On the flip side the oil filter is located way up in there on my 05. You have to reach up past through the passenger wheel well. Not fun.
Hi someguyZERO. Interesting idea. I haven't considered that. I guess your idea will help spread the new oil quicker? I'll have to check it out during my next oil change. Thanks!
For this car, I got the Viper 4704 remote starter. It's well worth it if you live in locations that has a summer or winter. It'll be a while before I need to crawl under the car again. I would suggest visiting the parts store at the dealership to buy the bolts. I've visited them to buy other items and they've been very helpful.
Do you trust that oil life montior and is it safe do oil changes every 7,500miles. Right now I change my oil every 5,000 miles I do use full synthetic motor oil to.
Kendall is supposed to be made by Connoco Phillips which actually distributes Honada oil. As far as the additive package not sure if they're anywhere near the same.
I use 5 quarts. I take the filter and the drain plug off at the same time. I wait about two hours before replacing them then add the new oil. This gives all of the old oil plenty of time to drain. I also fill the new filter about half way with new oil and lube the gasket before installing it. I use Signature AMS oil and filter. My TSX is an 05 and I plan to keep it. There still isn't anything on the market that can beat it.
Good stuff, good to know the salient points of a TSX from a servicing point of view. I always take my '05 to a car shop but maybe I should do it myself.
Great video! As was mentioned earlier, I would wait 10-15 minutes after engine ran for a few seconds before checking the oil level. That will give the oil time to settle on the oil pan. I own a 2005 TSX and started doing my own oil changes after a quick lube station didn't replace the splash guard.
No, you do not have to use full synthetic. I'm not a gearhead so it's just my personal preference. My other car is 13 years old, uses conventional oil, has over 100K miles & runs great. The newer cars require less frequent oil changes. I change the oil in my old car every 2500 miles, new car is roughly 7500 miles. Buying 5 quarts of conventional with filter is $20. Buying 5 quarts of synthetic with filter is $30. Since I don't need to change the oil frequently, I figure I use synthetic.
I don't know how they calculate it but I would speculate it's based on the number of miles driven thus far since the oil life meter was last reset. I doubt it actually measures the viscosity of the oil.
Good vid... I'm really wondering if I really should preplace that shield back on once I do my oil change. Looks like a hassel.... ps. U should spray some wd40 around ur engine bay and wipe it clean so it looks nicer.
Gustavo Cisneros After a while, the part where I screw the shield to the car broke. The screw piece was metal but it was connected to a flimsy plastic part that just broke off. Since then, I haven't been using the shield.
It's like insurance... well not the ultimate but the idea is if you SHOULD happen to drive over something... this will HELP (not PREVENT) damage to the parts it is protecting. If you know that you will never have a situation in your life driving over rocks that might have been thrown on a road from a flash flood... or thought you could drive forward in a parking space but missed that you had a cement block there.. YES put back the shield which is why it's called a shield. They don't put it there to piss you off when changing oil, etc. Just saying. Peace
In the newer vehicles like my CRV, the removable piece of the shield got a lot smaller. It now just covers the oil drain and filter rather then the whole underbelly.
yes, I trust the oil life sensor computer. In my older vehicle, the manual said to change it every 3000 miles or so. I would change it every 2500 because it was easier to keep track. I try to change it when it says 15%. But depending on the weather, I might actually get around to it when it's 5%. Thanks for watching.
Mine is 2010 tsx v4. it only takes 4.0 quarts to get to the full mark on the dipstick. It's right at full mark when the engine is cold, and at about 3/4 between the low and full mark when checked 2 mins after engine turn off. During oil change, i left it drained it for about 5-8mins, use mobil1 extended oil filter. In the user manual, the listed oil capacity is 4.2 quarts with new oil filter. Any idea why yours didn't overfilled with 4.5 quarts?
3 suggestions: 1) prefill oil filter with oil, 2) hand tight all the way, no backing, and 3) most importantly, wait till oil drains back to the pan to check oil level. Best to check it in the morning. You are overfilling, which may cause leak down there road.
+rhia lauj For this car, I change it when the onboard computer tells me. For my older Lexus, I change the oil and filter every 2500 miles just because that number is easier to track.
Key Driver Horizontal ones are easier to change and make less of a mess. The vertical ones leak all the used oil down the filter as you loosen it, which is annoying.
AwkwardHamster Are you referring to the pinch weld? I'm wondering how you fit the jack AND the jack stand on that pinch weld because it's a very small space. Did you lower the jack so it's resting on the stand?
The jack is lined up with a groove in the frame. Don't know if that spot is called pinch weld. The jack stand is with the unibody frame. The jack stand is just there in case the jack fails. I lowered the jack a bit so both jack and jack stand has contact with the car frame.
AwkwardHamster Ok i think I see what you are saying. You may have the jack stand on an area that isn't strong. I guess I can't really tell. But use caution because the jack stand should support ALL of the weight.
I always thumb up any earnest attempt at a DIY, because I appreciate their effort. Overall, this is a good video, so thank you. However, I must bring up one thing. Of all my years on this planet and being around tons and tons of cars, I have never, ever heard of someone thinking that blowing with their mouth on the oil fill port from a couple feet away would possibly have the slightest benefit. I thought you were going to laugh after and say "just kidding, guys". If there was a device that could screw onto the oil fill hole, creating an airtight deal, and you could blow clean compressed air into the engine, you might be able to extract another teaspoon of used oil. Maybe.
AwkwardHamster Actually, it is necessary. Very necessary. It's more than just a washer. It's an aluminum crush gasket. Which, when previously used, will no longer crush properly to correctly seal the steel drain plug to the aluminum oil pan. If you don't change the crush gasket every time you remove the drain plug, you're running a big risk of leaking oil. Oh, and another note to remember, make sure that you properly crush the crush gasket, as per factory specs, to make sure that you have a good seal.
AwkwardHamster True, its necessary. It doesn't act as just a gasket. It also "locks" the bolt and prevents it from backing out and dumping the oil out on the ground. You can buy them at the dealer for about $0.80 a piece or do what I did and buy them online. I bought a pack of 50 of them online for under $10 like 10 years ago and have been using them on every Honda and Acura vehicle I maintain since then.
OK, I'll pick up a pack the next time I'm at the parts store. Changed the oil recently and don't recall seeing the gasket. Now's a good of a time as any to get one. Thanks for the feedback.
caffyclark The Honda/Acura engineers know what they are doing. They actually calibrate the oil life monitor with the car using conventional motor oil. You can safely take it down to 10% or 5%. The old days of 3000 mile oil changes are long gone. On my 2010 TSX, it doesn't ask for an oil change for at least 11K and sometimes 12K miles. I use synthetic oil just for piece of mind and because synthetic oil is only a few dollars more than conventional oil at Wal-Mart.
TIP: When replacing new oil filter, slightly oil the ring along the circumference of the oil filter. This will help make it easier to unscrew the oil filter 3000 miles later.
TIP: leave the car to cool down for couple hours to avoid oil dripping from the side of filter TIP2: Soak those rusted cover bolts inside the drained oil to make it come out easier next time
I didn't see any comments on disposal of used oil. I'm not a enviro-freak, but proper disposal is important to prevent pollution to water ways. I believe you can take it to autozone or pep boys for free.
+AwkwardHamster You dont have too, but if u care to read, there was an extended warranty put out on engine burning thru oil. 09-10 models. Figured u know butbi guess not. again, motor oil. Not worth getting if i burn thru oil less than 2k miles.
I own a 2012 TSX 2.4 with 112,500 miles on the odometer and it uses only 1/4 quart of oil in 6k miles. I don’t drive it slow but I don’t beat on the car either. I use 0W20 full synthetic oil with a 6k mile oci. By 6k miles, my maintenance minder is at
At 12:47 you mention 4 3rds of the way.??? Which is 1 1/3?? Do you know what you're doing? And to begin, don't start measuring your oil levels right after you shut the engine off because IT WILL NOT BE accurate. The oil is splashed up throughout the engine!!!! Give it 10-15 minutes for the warm oil to settle and then check the reading. I don't think this automotive stuff is your thing. Stop posting poor knowledge!!
I show the oil cap at 0:11 in the video because the oil requirement, 5w-20, is printed on it. The TSX vehicles after 2010 use 0w-20. But, be sure to check what is printed on your oil cap or owners manual if there are any doubts. The bolt and thread for the belly pan becomes more and more difficult remove over the years. Thread may be metallic but the surrounding is plastic. The plastic part give way more easily when the bolt becomes harder to remove over the years.
I recently had to take off the front bumper on our 2012 TSX se and I noticed many of the plastic push rivets get filled up with road grit. I had to replace a total of 6
After fully draining and changing the filter, confidently put 4.5 quarts in this engine. It won't be overfilled. After starting it up and checking for leaks, it's best to wait a couple minutes and then check the level. The reading you want to get on the dipstick is after virtually all the oil has settled back into the pan. I would also avoid blowing into the valve cover. There's no benefit, and the more likely outcome is dirt and grit being blown into the engine.
No major issues. The front right speaker was crackling so Acura replaced it at no charge, it was under warranty. The big ticket items were basic maintenance related, changed rear breaks twice, tires, & battery.
Don't be surprised if it feels like you're changing your rear breaks after 25,000 miles. We haven't needed to changed the front yet but already changed the back brakes twice. Acura shop and our local brake shop both said these TSX wears the rear break pads faster.
Hope that helps.
I have the same car. There is so much fail in this video.
1) Buy ramps at the auto parts store. They are much easier and safer than using the car jack and jack stands.
2) Oil bucket should not be lined with a plastic bag. You have to throw that bag away and it just creates a mess. Just use an waste oil container.
3) The car comes with an aluminum crush washer on the drain plug. These are one time use only and need replaced at every oil change. In your video you didn't even use a crush washer at all !!!
4) Use latex gloves or similar on your hands at every oil change. Used oil is carcinogenic. Also makes clean up a BREEZE.
5) You tighten the oil filter "as far as you can" and than back off a quarter turn. Um, no. You are compressing the oil gasket and than uncompressing it. This is a complete fail. Just tighten it until its tight. Don't loosen it. Your way of doing it is a recipe for leaks.
yeah this was hard to watch.
Lot's of work in this video! Very detailed. This is how to do a youtube.com video! I'm so tired of the "certified mastered mechanics" that do lame videos. It takes real people like this man. Thank you!
greggismyname thank you
I have an 05 TSX and there is a simple plastic flap you take off to drain the oil. It has one bolt. Weird that they decided to go with covering with a huge shield on the newer ones. On the flip side the oil filter is located way up in there on my 05. You have to reach up past through the passenger wheel well. Not fun.
Hi someguyZERO. Interesting idea. I haven't considered that. I guess your idea will help spread the new oil quicker? I'll have to check it out during my next oil change. Thanks!
I'm getting a new TSX in the spring. I currently have a 97 2.5TL and getting to the filter is a nightmare!! This will be a dream.
Nice, bro
Looking at getting Tsx 3.5 2010 with less then 40k on it.
Have you had an issues with your Tsx?
Thanks
For this car, I got the Viper 4704 remote starter. It's well worth it if you live in locations that has a summer or winter. It'll be a while before I need to crawl under the car again. I would suggest visiting the parts store at the dealership to buy the bolts. I've visited them to buy other items and they've been very helpful.
Do you trust that oil life montior and is it safe do oil changes every 7,500miles. Right now I change my oil every 5,000 miles I do use full synthetic motor oil to.
Thank you for watching! Glad I can be of assistance.
how do you rotate the tires? do you do it from back to front on the same side or do you cris cross it? which one is more recommended?
What do think about not replacing the cover? ...eliminating the worst part.
Kendall is supposed to be made by Connoco Phillips which actually distributes Honada oil. As far as the additive package not sure if they're anywhere near the same.
I use 5 quarts. I take the filter and the drain plug off at the same time. I wait about two hours before replacing them then add the new oil. This gives all of the old oil plenty of time to drain. I also fill the new filter about half way with new oil and lube the gasket before installing it. I use Signature AMS oil and filter. My TSX is an 05 and I plan to keep it. There still isn't anything on the market that can beat it.
Good stuff, good to know the salient points of a TSX from a servicing point of view.
I always take my '05 to a car shop but maybe I should do it myself.
Hey nice demonstration in simple terms. You explained everything well.
Thank you.
Do you happen to know what the oil life meter in the car is based on and how it is calculated? Thanks for the video by the ways. It was very helpful.
Great video! As was mentioned earlier, I would wait 10-15 minutes after engine ran for a few seconds before checking the oil level. That will give the oil time to settle on the oil pan. I own a 2005 TSX and started doing my own oil changes after a quick lube station didn't replace the splash guard.
Eliceo Herrera-Flores thanks for sharing
Where was the filter located on the 1st gen TSX? Did you have that under engine cover too? God I hate that cover.
What is the control that you use to start your engine? Do you need to install anything in your car to achieve that?
Hi. It's the Viper Remote Start with 2 way pager. amzn.to/1cQP01s
I would highly recommend it. Helps us out a lot in the winter and summer.
hey i was curious do u have to use full synthetic oils and why?
No, you do not have to use full synthetic. I'm not a gearhead so it's just my personal preference. My other car is 13 years old, uses conventional oil, has over 100K miles & runs great. The newer cars require less frequent oil changes. I change the oil in my old car every 2500 miles, new car is roughly 7500 miles.
Buying 5 quarts of conventional with filter is $20. Buying 5 quarts of synthetic with filter is $30. Since I don't need to change the oil frequently, I figure I use synthetic.
I don't know how they calculate it but I would speculate it's based on the number of miles driven thus far since the oil life meter was last reset. I doubt it actually measures the viscosity of the oil.
Very good video for TSX owner to learn thanks
Thanks for watching
Hi. This car is 2009. Acura TSX 2009 and newer are 2nd generation line.
Your TSX stumbled at the second startup, any idea what that could be ?
Good vid... I'm really wondering if I really should preplace that shield back on once I do my oil change. Looks like a hassel.... ps. U should spray some wd40 around ur engine bay and wipe it clean so it looks nicer.
Gustavo Cisneros After a while, the part where I screw the shield to the car broke. The screw piece was metal but it was connected to a flimsy plastic part that just broke off. Since then, I haven't been using the shield.
Good to know. Thanks
It's like insurance... well not the ultimate but the idea is if you SHOULD happen to drive over something... this will HELP (not PREVENT) damage to the parts it is protecting. If you know that you will never have a situation in your life driving over rocks that might have been thrown on a road from a flash flood... or thought you could drive forward in a parking space but missed that you had a cement block there.. YES put back the shield which is why it's called a shield. They don't put it there to piss you off when changing oil, etc. Just saying. Peace
In the newer vehicles like my CRV, the removable piece of the shield got a lot smaller. It now just covers the oil drain and filter rather then the whole underbelly.
yes, I trust the oil life sensor computer. In my older vehicle, the manual said to change it every 3000 miles or so. I would change it every 2500 because it was easier to keep track. I try to change it when it says 15%. But depending on the weather, I might actually get around to it when it's 5%. Thanks for watching.
Mine is 2010 tsx v4. it only takes 4.0 quarts to get to the full mark on the dipstick.
It's right at full mark when the engine is cold, and at about 3/4 between the low and full mark when checked 2 mins after engine turn off. During oil change, i left it drained it for about 5-8mins, use mobil1 extended oil filter.
In the user manual, the listed oil capacity is 4.2 quarts with new oil filter.
Any idea why yours didn't overfilled with 4.5 quarts?
I always figured it was because I replaced the filter and used air to force as much of the old oil out as I can before refilling.
3 suggestions: 1) prefill oil filter with oil, 2) hand tight all the way, no backing, and 3) most importantly, wait till oil drains back to the pan to check oil level. Best to check it in the morning. You are overfilling, which may cause leak down there road.
Hi There! Do you have any oil burning problem? My friend's 2010 Acura TSX, seems to consume a lot oil between oil changes.
+Wallace Yu
I haven't encountered that with this car. Put a cardboard under the front engine of the car overnight to check for oil leaks.
AwkwardHamster
Thanks for you advice. We checked before, no leaks. Maybe his car burns oil.
Great video! AwkwardHamster How to change automatic transmission fluid change for acura TSX 2009?
+Sivaprasath Sekar
I don't have a video on that.
do you change the oil and filter every 5000 miles or 10,000 miles? i got a 2006 acura tsx
+rhia lauj
For this car, I change it when the onboard computer tells me. For my older Lexus, I change the oil and filter every 2500 miles just because that number is easier to track.
thanks alot
The best oil filters are Wix or Napa Gold (made by Wix). Watch Wix vs Fram oil filter here on youtube. You will see what they look like inside.
its nice to see how Honda placed the oil filter so it screws up vertically, the horizontal ones always caused a mess when taking them off
Key Driver Horizontal ones are easier to change and make less of a mess. The vertical ones leak all the used oil down the filter as you loosen it, which is annoying.
Is the car on or off when you do this?
Off when doing this
What do you have the jack stand on? It doesn't look like it's on a strong area
There is a metal beam at the bottom for the jack.
AwkwardHamster Are you referring to the pinch weld? I'm wondering how you fit the jack AND the jack stand on that pinch weld because it's a very small space. Did you lower the jack so it's resting on the stand?
The jack is lined up with a groove in the frame. Don't know if that spot is called pinch weld. The jack stand is with the unibody frame. The jack stand is just there in case the jack fails. I lowered the jack a bit so both jack and jack stand has contact with the car frame.
AwkwardHamster Ok i think I see what you are saying. You may have the jack stand on an area that isn't strong. I guess I can't really tell. But use caution because the jack stand should support ALL of the weight.
Just what I was looking for!
This was so helpful!!! Thank you for making this!!
thanks for watching
I always thumb up any earnest attempt at a DIY, because I appreciate their effort. Overall, this is a good video, so thank you.
However, I must bring up one thing. Of all my years on this planet and being around tons and tons of cars, I have never, ever heard of someone thinking that blowing with their mouth on the oil fill port from a couple feet away would possibly have the slightest benefit. I thought you were going to laugh after and say "just kidding, guys".
If there was a device that could screw onto the oil fill hole, creating an airtight deal, and you could blow clean compressed air into the engine, you might be able to extract another teaspoon of used oil. Maybe.
I noticed you forgot to mention to change the washer on the oil pan bolt. Honda recommends that you replace it on every change.
Niko Hi. I don't replace the washer. I just wipe it clean before re-using it. I don't think it's necessary to replace it with every oil change.
AwkwardHamster
Actually, it is necessary. Very necessary. It's more than just a washer. It's an aluminum crush gasket. Which, when previously used, will no longer crush properly to correctly seal the steel drain plug to the aluminum oil pan.
If you don't change the crush gasket every time you remove the drain plug, you're running a big risk of leaking oil.
Oh, and another note to remember, make sure that you properly crush the crush gasket, as per factory specs, to make sure that you have a good seal.
AwkwardHamster True, its necessary. It doesn't act as just a gasket. It also "locks" the bolt and prevents it from backing out and dumping the oil out on the ground. You can buy them at the dealer for about $0.80 a piece or do what I did and buy them online. I bought a pack of 50 of them online for under $10 like 10 years ago and have been using them on every Honda and Acura vehicle I maintain since then.
OK, I'll pick up a pack the next time I'm at the parts store. Changed the oil recently and don't recall seeing the gasket. Now's a good of a time as any to get one.
Thanks for the feedback.
Yea, a lot of my viewers keep telling me not to use Fram.
I'll admit I'm cheap and I use Fram because it costs less.
I have a 2012 tsx and it says it needs 0W -20 lol why are they different
I got the 2012 Honda CRV and it also says 0W-20. Sucks I need to keep different oils in stock. At least the filter sizes are the same.
What is the lowest oil life percentage to drive on that is still safe? I usually change it around 60% but 5% seems risky.
caffyclark It's preferable to change at 15% because it means oil life is under 15%. 60% is way too soon.
AwkwardHamster How many miles is that roughly?
caffyclark i didn't keep track of the miles, don't want to guess wrong either
caffyclark I change my oil roughly around 10-12,000 miles using Mobil 1 Synthetic. I believe Acura recommends every 7500 miles with conventional oil.
caffyclark The Honda/Acura engineers know what they are doing. They actually calibrate the oil life monitor with the car using conventional motor oil. You can safely take it down to 10% or 5%. The old days of 3000 mile oil changes are long gone. On my 2010 TSX, it doesn't ask for an oil change for at least 11K and sometimes 12K miles. I use synthetic oil just for piece of mind and because synthetic oil is only a few dollars more than conventional oil at Wal-Mart.
I rotate front to back because the cris cross method is too time consuming with just 1 person.
after you start the car, you should wait about 2 mins for the oil to drain back down to the drainpan to get an accurate measurement.
Thanks so much I love your videos I subscribed I have a accord too.
Cool, Thanks for the feedback.
dammit this is much easier than the 1st gen TSX with its stupid location for an oil filter
How do you change the spark plugs?
Not difficult but I can't describe it in 500 characters.
Where's it located?
AwkwardHamster can you make a video how to change spark plug and wires?
Not anytime soon. I basically make videos when my cars need attention.
TIP: When replacing new oil filter, slightly oil the ring along the circumference of the oil filter. This will help make it easier to unscrew the oil filter 3000 miles later.
Michael Goldberg Yup, I think so too. Thank you. 7:51
It was the car battery. Had to replace it. I made a video about that too
=D
Thank you so much!
+flyontop
You're welcome
cool, Thanks!!! Great Video!!!
awesome
Damn. I did an oil change today and I forgot about filling the new filter half way.
TIP: leave the car to cool down for couple hours to avoid oil dripping from the side of filter
TIP2: Soak those rusted cover bolts inside the drained oil to make it come out easier next time
Maybe if the vehicle was 13 years old, I would not use that cover anymore. For now, I'll keep putting that cover on.
nice but DO NOT USE FRAM ---- stick with the OEM Honda 15400-PLM-A01 (not A02).
on the back of the engine black practically above the exhaust manifold, pain in the ass to get a tool back there to get the filter off
Good video, but what about personal PPE ??? No safety glasses , no gloves. let's be more aware of safety.
When in doubt, grab a 10mm socket.
My dipstick doesn’t come out
I didn't see any comments on disposal of used oil. I'm not a enviro-freak, but proper disposal is important to prevent pollution to water ways. I believe you can take it to autozone or pep boys for free.
We have public sanitation dept. where I live. At my town recycling center, there is a drum for these oil.
Just use an oil filter wrench next time.
I want to get a 2010 but I saw the tsb about oil consumption. too bad.
+LaVerite124
You mean fuel consumption is bad or motor oil? I found neither to be bad enough to talk about.
+AwkwardHamster You dont have too, but if u care to read, there was an extended warranty put out on engine burning thru oil. 09-10 models. Figured u know butbi guess not. again, motor oil. Not worth getting if i burn thru oil less than 2k miles.
+LaVerite124 but i guess i meant
I own a 2012 TSX 2.4 with 112,500 miles on the odometer and it uses only 1/4 quart of oil in 6k miles. I don’t drive it slow but I don’t beat on the car either. I use 0W20 full synthetic oil with a 6k mile oci. By 6k miles, my maintenance minder is at
At 12:47 you mention 4 3rds of the way.??? Which is 1 1/3?? Do you know what you're doing? And to begin, don't start measuring your oil levels right after you shut the engine off because IT WILL NOT BE accurate. The oil is splashed up throughout the engine!!!! Give it 10-15 minutes for the warm oil to settle and then check the reading. I don't think this automotive stuff is your thing. Stop posting poor knowledge!!
this vid was great, don't listen to this guy ^
Bro, it takes 1 min max to take that plastic belly pan off! Also, this car takes 0w20, not 5w.
I show the oil cap at 0:11 in the video because the oil requirement, 5w-20, is printed on it. The TSX vehicles after 2010 use 0w-20. But, be sure to check what is printed on your oil cap or owners manual if there are any doubts.
The bolt and thread for the belly pan becomes more and more difficult remove over the years. Thread may be metallic but the surrounding is plastic. The plastic part give way more easily when the bolt becomes harder to remove over the years.
I recently had to take off the front bumper on our 2012 TSX se and I noticed many of the plastic push rivets get filled up with road grit. I had to replace a total of 6