I use pilkington spray foam glass cleaner I've also used wd40 but the honest to god most important thing is to make sure you've got a clean surface around the pinch weld and keep it wet and slick it literally takes about 10 min when your going back with new rubber always lay it out in sun or winter job leave it in the heat all night before the job cause the new rubbers can be a mf lol specially when you got that zipper with the chrome oh my God
I used Dove dish soap and some water before and noted other TH-cam rubber seal installers suggested dish soap as well. I have a six inch chop top 69 Mustang Fastback restomod I will be trying to install smoked rear glass tomorrow. Since 1979 when it was chopped I used tinted Lexan with opening and removable from side to side split window but this time it's going back to glass. Even WD 40 is recommended by the WD 40 corporation which I do have on hand, I look forward to it, 'never do today what one may possibly do better tomorrow' I always say.
Thank you for the video. I have put in new seal on my 70 mach 1 because the one before was leaking, although it was not an old seal. We glued the seal to the glass in the first attempt, but no adhesive between the body and the seal, just like you did it, I must say we did not use any lanolin, soap or other lubricant. It still poored water in the cabin. Secobd attempt we used automotive glass adhesive (3M) but it still leaks as if there was no adhesive. I hired a 'professional' to do the job and assisted him, but didn't work out. Do you have any other tips, tricks, ideas or anything? I live in europe, so the expertise with these cars here is not like in the states. Are there rubbers of certain manufactureres to avoid of which you advise on? Bit of a long comment, but thanks in advance for any advice!
Make sure the metal channel is clean!! I used a seal from either National Parts Depot or Year One, I cant remember. But the book calls for no adhesive. That being said, if you force enough strong water through it with a high pressure hose, it may leak.. if it doesn't leak when it is being rained on (hard rain) then thats what it is for. But in reality, if you can determine "where" the water is entering from (likely toward the top and running down) try to inspect that area closely and make sure everything is clean, flat, level and not buggering it up. The lanolin helps the rope move, but also keeps the metal of the body from cutting the seal. So without the soap, the sharp edges could slice it and let water in. Hope that helps!
@@r.arabian3056 The channel was clean, I spent some time cleaning it up. It’s hard to say as the water really comes pooring in. Mainly the top edge and the bottom corners i think. I have been looking at it before, there is a spot on the top edge were two pieces of sheet metal meet, i think that is where it leaks. I took out the headliner edges on the second attempt to give it a fighting chance but didnt help either. I’ll give it another go with the lanolin soap once I have a new rubber. Did you put something between the rubber and the glass, in terms of adhesive, or just rubber on glass?
@@jekkOO7 the most likey place it would leak is where the roof panel meets the rear quarter. They are smoothed over with lead leaving a bit of a grove. You can put some non drying putty there to fill in any gaps. They did this at the factory with all cars as they were leaded in that fashion. They used the same material as used at the time for windshields, butal. It never cures or goes dry and can be worked even ten years later. Other than that as long as your rubber is good and clean and your pinch weld you should have no leak. Maybe some newer rubbers are to soft? Don't seal properly. I have seen people toss the kits and install the back glass like the windshield with urethane and then install the chrome over it. It works but shows clearly what you have done. You could cut the rubber and glue the top section to the glass i suppose if you wanted to be extreme.
Yes. They snap into place. But you have to install them before you do all of this or it is a no go.And the reproduction clips do not fit well. See if you can find NOS ones.
@@r.arabian3056 there is lots or room to slide the clips over the tabs after the glass is in. There is a proper tool to do it but a flat screwdriver works if you are careful. Maybe i am missing what your explanation is trying to say.
good job guys. always start with bottom pinch weld. set the bottom rubber lip over punch weld and begin pulling it over with a hook tool then begin working it in. Also wd-40 works great . just spray in the rubber channel
That has to be the hardest way to install a back glass in a fastback i have seen. I did my 72 from the outside with one helper and plastic tool in 10 minutes including lubricating the rubber. Why would you chose to do it from the inside when you have so little room to move around in. Also if the glass has any tint applied to it you risk damaging it. Yes you got it in and when it all comes down to it thats what matters but this is not the way to do it.
I never marketed it as "the only way," it was just our way. And there are NO other videos on it, so you are most certainly free to post how you do it in a fastback. Many ways to do it my friend.
@@r.arabian3056 agreed. I was just frustrated with so many videos and not one showing it done from the outside. My background includes a lot of work with trucks and tractors which use these rubbers. Ford Louisville trucks use to have door pockets that installed in rubbers exactly like this. The back glass also used them. Nice response on your part. Seriously classy which is in short supply today. Two thumbs up.
As a professional glass installer years ago we always used this method long before many people used it or recommended it. It was the best and safest way to install glass at car dealerships from hail damage as well as vandalized glass that had been broken out. He is correct in this being the BEST and EASIEST Most Common Method. Bar any. If you learned to do it a different way. That's cool too. But you are incorrect on this being the most difficult way. That way would be doing it without fingers or just using one hand. haha. Or like me, by myself on my 70 mustang retoration.
Lmao you have lost your mind I've been installing glass for 28 years and it is definitely a rope in paddle and slapping this glass as flat as it is can hurt your feelings real quick if you get this glass in a bind paddling it in it will pop
Looking at doing the install on my 1970 Mach 1. Your video was very helpful. Did you use some urethane inside the seal, between the gasket and the glass?
Sorry you feel that way Hans. One of us works in a high risk environment and may have been exposed at the time this video was made. We were just being cautious as other family members are high risk as well. Politics aside, its about cars buddy.
I use pilkington spray foam glass cleaner I've also used wd40 but the honest to god most important thing is to make sure you've got a clean surface around the pinch weld and keep it wet and slick it literally takes about 10 min when your going back with new rubber always lay it out in sun or winter job leave it in the heat all night before the job cause the new rubbers can be a mf lol specially when you got that zipper with the chrome oh my God
I used Dove dish soap and some water before and noted other TH-cam rubber seal installers suggested dish soap as well. I have a six inch chop top 69 Mustang Fastback restomod I will be trying to install smoked rear glass tomorrow. Since 1979 when it was chopped I used tinted Lexan with opening and removable from side to side split window but this time it's going back to glass. Even WD 40 is recommended by the WD 40 corporation which I do have on hand, I look forward to it, 'never do today what one may possibly do better tomorrow' I always say.
Thank you for the video. I have put in new seal on my 70 mach 1 because the one before was leaking, although it was not an old seal.
We glued the seal to the glass in the first attempt, but no adhesive between the body and the seal, just like you did it, I must say we did not use any lanolin, soap or other lubricant. It still poored water in the cabin. Secobd attempt we used automotive glass adhesive (3M) but it still leaks as if there was no adhesive.
I hired a 'professional' to do the job and assisted him, but didn't work out.
Do you have any other tips, tricks, ideas or anything? I live in europe, so the expertise with these cars here is not like in the states.
Are there rubbers of certain manufactureres to avoid of which you advise on?
Bit of a long comment, but thanks in advance for any advice!
Make sure the metal channel is clean!! I used a seal from either National Parts Depot or Year One, I cant remember. But the book calls for no adhesive. That being said, if you force enough strong water through it with a high pressure hose, it may leak.. if it doesn't leak when it is being rained on (hard rain) then thats what it is for. But in reality, if you can determine "where" the water is entering from (likely toward the top and running down) try to inspect that area closely and make sure everything is clean, flat, level and not buggering it up. The lanolin helps the rope move, but also keeps the metal of the body from cutting the seal. So without the soap, the sharp edges could slice it and let water in. Hope that helps!
@@r.arabian3056 The channel was clean, I spent some time cleaning it up. It’s hard to say as the water really comes pooring in. Mainly the top edge and the bottom corners i think. I have been looking at it before, there is a spot on the top edge were two pieces of sheet metal meet, i think that is where it leaks. I took out the headliner edges on the second attempt to give it a fighting chance but didnt help either.
I’ll give it another go with the lanolin soap once I have a new rubber. Did you put something between the rubber and the glass, in terms of adhesive, or just rubber on glass?
@@jekkOO7 the most likey place it would leak is where the roof panel meets the rear quarter. They are smoothed over with lead leaving a bit of a grove. You can put some non drying putty there to fill in any gaps. They did this at the factory with all cars as they were leaded in that fashion. They used the same material as used at the time for windshields, butal. It never cures or goes dry and can be worked even ten years later. Other than that as long as your rubber is good and clean and your pinch weld you should have no leak. Maybe some newer rubbers are to soft? Don't seal properly. I have seen people toss the kits and install the back glass like the windshield with urethane and then install the chrome over it. It works but shows clearly what you have done. You could cut the rubber and glue the top section to the glass i suppose if you wanted to be extreme.
Awesome 👍🏼. Thanks for the vid! Can you pop the trim clips in afterwards?
Yes. They snap into place. But you have to install them before you do all of this or it is a no go.And the reproduction clips do not fit well. See if you can find NOS ones.
@@r.arabian3056 there is lots or room to slide the clips over the tabs after the glass is in. There is a proper tool to do it but a flat screwdriver works if you are careful. Maybe i am missing what your explanation is trying to say.
good job guys. always start with bottom pinch weld. set the bottom rubber lip over punch weld and begin pulling it over with a hook tool then begin working it in. Also wd-40 works great . just spray in the rubber channel
That has to be the hardest way to install a back glass in a fastback i have seen. I did my 72 from the outside with one helper and plastic tool in 10 minutes including lubricating the rubber. Why would you chose to do it from the inside when you have so little room to move around in. Also if the glass has any tint applied to it you risk damaging it. Yes you got it in and when it all comes down to it thats what matters but this is not the way to do it.
I never marketed it as "the only way," it was just our way. And there are NO other videos on it, so you are most certainly free to post how you do it in a fastback. Many ways to do it my friend.
@@r.arabian3056 agreed. I was just frustrated with so many videos and not one showing it done from the outside. My background includes a lot of work with trucks and tractors which use these rubbers. Ford Louisville trucks use to have door pockets that installed in rubbers exactly like this. The back glass also used them. Nice response on your part. Seriously classy which is in short supply today. Two thumbs up.
As a professional glass installer years ago we always used this method long before many people used it or recommended it. It was the best and safest way to install glass at car dealerships from hail damage as well as vandalized glass that had been broken out. He is correct in this being the BEST and EASIEST Most Common Method. Bar any. If you learned to do it a different way. That's cool too. But you are incorrect on this being the most difficult way. That way would be doing it without fingers or just using one hand. haha. Or like me, by myself on my 70 mustang retoration.
Lmao you have lost your mind I've been installing glass for 28 years and it is definitely a rope in paddle and slapping this glass as flat as it is can hurt your feelings real quick if you get this glass in a bind paddling it in it will pop
@@MrCbell57agree 👍
Looking at doing the install on my 1970 Mach 1. Your video was very helpful. Did you use some urethane inside the seal, between the gasket and the glass?
No additives!! The book says no, and the fit is so tight you don't need it. It is on there by a lot of pressure. Don't glue it!
A fun28 cobra jet.
Lost me at the mask. Sorry......
Sorry you feel that way Hans. One of us works in a high risk environment and may have been exposed at the time this video was made. We were just being cautious as other family members are high risk as well. Politics aside, its about cars buddy.