Been trying to decide on which car I wanted to build for my drag car project and watching this video was definately the deciding factor, no doubt gonna go with the DR, thx brotha! Awesome car BTW! And to answer your question, yes, all of the above lol
Awesome! It's a great car that I wish I had better access to some spots to run it. Unfortunately I haven't run as much as I'd like to but I love the car!
A tip for the turnbuckles, stick a pair of allen drivers into the hole on the ball cup (into the ball stud itself) and then adjust the turnbuckle. Doing this will keep the ball cup from popping off the ball stud.
A better tip, put the turnbuckle in a drill, black grease on the threads and slowly run it in and out of the ballcup multiple times! Buttery smooth adjustments.
Chapstick helps with ball ends too. I use it on all my builds and it works. Makes adjusting the camber/toe much easier. I thinks it works better with wax than grease
I couldn't believe I didn't think about just sticking a hex driver in the ball end to stop the link from popping off like everyone is recommending 🤦🏼♂️
Car looks great. As far as the gnss I've never seen on even close I actually only use mine for a tuning tool to make sure I'm making gains . Just for instance yesterday I was out tuning my car on our pro system I've been 2.00 but my gnss says 2.15 . Hope this helps brother. Keep pluging along
Yea I'm thinking I won't be able to trust it much anymore. I heard about a group racing with a tree about the an hour from me, hoping to check out what they have soon.
Great video, I haven't had my drag car running for probably 3 years and decided to get it out and running again. Unfortunately it was built from a SC10.1 factory team truck which is near impossible to get parts for now. That said I'm looking to upgrade to the dr10m and this was a ton of good information on where to start.
Nearly all Gnss's are 2 tenths of a second off from a Pro tree, so there extremely accurate across the country just 2 tenths of a sec off in general due to satellite information travel etc. But we've never seen one Gnsss way off from another, you can pretty much take 2 tenths of a second to the bank......... Great Build great video and information 💯🏁🤘🏼
You definitely not losing your mind I recently had the very same issue my time was stuck at 2.41 I was getting between 60 and 64 mph. I ran it with the same tune on a DTS set at 133 ft but staging on the back tire so the beam doesn't catch down the whole side of the car and it was running a 2.17 at 70. That is within a couple hundredths of a porta tree set up if you stage on the back tire but make the track length 133 ft we've done it repeatedly here in Massachusetts. My gnss has also told me 2.55 at 60 MPH but on the Porta tree set up I went a 2.25 at 67. Sometimes I feel like he gets stuck on a certain number also I made five passes with five different radio tunes and it gave me the same number. The first gnss I had seemed much more accurate this is my second one and it was hurting my feelings at first but now I know not to take it too seriously
@@FullThrottleRC I did try that with mine I reset it right there on the spot and I cleared the cache but it's still showed me similar results 2.41 2.40 at 61 60 mph
Nice build. I built my Dr10 from a kit and also loved the detail behind the instructions too. Good passes for a first run. Not sure if you use Gopros but the offer a satellite function that would allow you to measure speed, distance and g-force. Just a thought if you’re already using Gopros. Nice passes tho
As far as the little gnss I went from running 255 254 256 at a plays and 244 245 on their Timing System. I go back to my home track I had to reset the tuneup for the different surface but I couldn't go faster than a 265 no matter what I did with the tune-up I think I ran 6 of them with same et, some different curves but same 2.65..that was frustrating.
So my experience with the gnss so far has taught me that for some strange reason it’s more accurate mounted to the rear of the car,than the front of the car.Now I realize it’s so much better to have that weight up front,but try to mount it behind the trans,or on the wheelie bar,and see if your numbers improve
@@jamesweeks4152 I'm unsure. I run dry tires and the drc heat up quick. I have a set of blue reactions and 20 drc I'm going to test with. I think I like my drc 30 over my orange reactions.
I use multiple gnss. They're accurate. Always the same. Just an average of .15 slow. Ive made multiple 1.8s hits on different gnss. With my actual track times being 1.77-1.82.
Good to know, thanks! Seems like most have been .15 to .20 slow. If we ever get a full day without rain I'm hoping I can get the car closer into the 2.0s
@@FullThrottleRC good luck. That shouldn't be a problem. Use about 140g of weight on the nose. Try to get your weight bias over 40% up front. 3.5 high traction tune, disable voltage protect. Punch 80% or higher. 35* on the motor. 58-65 in the drk. 12-18 slew. If you're still using the drk for launch control get it to leave as close to 50 on first stage, 65, 78, 90 with 100 on the last stage. No slipper clutch. If your car is setup right that should be an excellent starting point for 1.9-2.0 runs. And if you're running reactions don't use foams. Much better performance on the street.
Just got myself a dr10 kit still getting it up and running but after watching your video wish I'd saved up a bit more and got one of these. Quick question do you run toe in or toe out on the front
This kit was set up to run toe out according to the build manual. On my old car I ran toe in and I may do that on this car too but for now it's working like it is.
Id recommended either neutral toe or a lil toe in - toe-in is only required in a small amount to enable the vehicle to gain more stability and compensate for slight changes in geometry and suspension height.... toe out is more for front wheel or awd race cars and or racing on oval or several turn tracks. For straight drag racing I wldnt recommend toe out at all ...💯🏁
Hey, what's good. So I had the same problem or issues. I started I was 2.3 63mph did the same as you same results. I called my buddy he said on a timer it would of been 2.0. I want home made some changes next day I was @ 2.1 2.2 62-66 mph. Timer I was told would of been 2.0 1.9. I been consistent. I have been up and down man. I got that 5 Star chassis now I have to do all this shit over again. Smh lol I know the spoils of racing.
It's a whole lot of testing and trying things! That's the fun in it for me though. The more consistent I am and the more I see constant improvement, I feel good about what I'm doing. And just helping other people along the way with what I learn is what I enjoy!
I bought a GNSS; updated the firmware, and can't get it to even set a distance and retain it to get a run. Disasspointing, have other Skyrc products that have been great.
Yesterday I reset the GNSS by pressing the reset button on the device and was able to see some better times. Not sure if it just needed to be reset or what, but for now mine is working.
I have seen gnss data like that a couple of times . The mph is faster and its accelerating harder but the time is no faster . It's odd..itll cut off the last .2 of the run on the incremental data sheet .
I still think you should make an extended version of the old wheelie bar for the dr10 also I mean this with no offense, you sound drained in the post test convo. get some sleep brother
Maybe will one day cause I like the adjustment of my old wheelie bar. And fun fact about that, I probably sound like that because that part was filmed the day after I made those passes, first thing in the morning. Hadn't even finished my coffee yet hahaha. I appreciate it tho!
Looking good can't wait to see it ripping. Thank's for Sharing 👊💥👍💯
It's feeling good so far. Ready to see some faster numbers!
Been trying to decide on which car I wanted to build for my drag car project and watching this video was definately the deciding factor, no doubt gonna go with the DR, thx brotha! Awesome car BTW! And to answer your question, yes, all of the above lol
Awesome! It's a great car that I wish I had better access to some spots to run it. Unfortunately I haven't run as much as I'd like to but I love the car!
Awesome video! Can’t wait to see more of this car!
Thank you!!
A tip for the turnbuckles, stick a pair of allen drivers into the hole on the ball cup (into the ball stud itself) and then adjust the turnbuckle. Doing this will keep the ball cup from popping off the ball stud.
That's actually really smart. Not sure how I didn't think of that hahaha. Thanks!
A better tip, put the turnbuckle in a drill, black grease on the threads and slowly run it in and out of the ballcup multiple times! Buttery smooth adjustments.
Got mine on Sunday. Still haven't opened it. I'm glad to see it performs well right out of the box. 👍
It's a great car so far. I think it'll be really competitive
Chapstick helps with ball ends too. I use it on all my builds and it works. Makes adjusting the camber/toe much easier. I thinks it works better with wax than grease
I couldn't believe I didn't think about just sticking a hex driver in the ball end to stop the link from popping off like everyone is recommending 🤦🏼♂️
😎thank you ...! Helped out ALOT...!
Thanks!
Nice, thanks for sharing bro👍
Thanks for watching!
Car looks great. As far as the gnss I've never seen on even close I actually only use mine for a tuning tool to make sure I'm making gains . Just for instance yesterday I was out tuning my car on our pro system I've been 2.00 but my gnss says 2.15 . Hope this helps brother. Keep pluging along
Yea I'm thinking I won't be able to trust it much anymore. I heard about a group racing with a tree about the an hour from me, hoping to check out what they have soon.
After these 2 vids im really resisting the urge to buy one of these now lol. Looking forward to seeing you make it go faster. 👍🏻
Hahaha thank you! It's an awesome car, I'm loving it so far
Great video, I haven't had my drag car running for probably 3 years and decided to get it out and running again. Unfortunately it was built from a SC10.1 factory team truck which is near impossible to get parts for now. That said I'm looking to upgrade to the dr10m and this was a ton of good information on where to start.
Yea that's why I was looking to upgrade too. Hard to find parts for my old car. I'm loving the DR10M so far. Good luck!!
Great job! Keep up the good work
Thank you!
Awesome video!!
Thank You!!
Nearly all Gnss's are 2 tenths of a second off from a Pro tree, so there extremely accurate across the country just 2 tenths of a sec off in general due to satellite information travel etc. But we've never seen one Gnsss way off from another, you can pretty much take 2 tenths of a second to the bank......... Great Build great video and information 💯🏁🤘🏼
Thanks! That's exactly what I was told by a few other people as well with the gnss.
You definitely not losing your mind I recently had the very same issue my time was stuck at 2.41 I was getting between 60 and 64 mph. I ran it with the same tune on a DTS set at 133 ft but staging on the back tire so the beam doesn't catch down the whole side of the car and it was running a 2.17 at 70. That is within a couple hundredths of a porta tree set up if you stage on the back tire but make the track length 133 ft we've done it repeatedly here in Massachusetts. My gnss has also told me 2.55 at 60 MPH but on the Porta tree set up I went a 2.25 at 67. Sometimes I feel like he gets stuck on a certain number also I made five passes with five different radio tunes and it gave me the same number. The first gnss I had seemed much more accurate this is my second one and it was hurting my feelings at first but now I know not to take it too seriously
Yea I'm not too sure what is going on. Glad it's not just me though. I might try resetting it next time out
@@FullThrottleRC I did try that with mine I reset it right there on the spot and I cleared the cache but it's still showed me similar results 2.41 2.40 at 61 60 mph
I had to take my Allen driver and stick it in where we tight it up if you do it gently you can move it np.
Yep, a couple people have told me about this now and I can't believe I didn't think about it 😂😂
Nice build. I built my Dr10 from a kit and also loved the detail behind the instructions too. Good passes for a first run. Not sure if you use Gopros but the offer a satellite function that would allow you to measure speed, distance and g-force. Just a thought if you’re already using Gopros. Nice passes tho
Thanks!! Yep I actually use gopros for filming. I may have to look into using it for telemetry one day though.
Looks Good
Thank you!
Asome Video
Thank you! 👍🏻👍🏻
Good job, love the car. I love me some carbon fiber.
Thanks I'm loving it too
I have had that same problem. But I figured out I was unloading on the top end
What problem exactly?
Sticking a Allen drive into ball cup will prevent it from popping out, works well for me
Some one else commented this and I don't know how I didn't think of this hahaha. Thanks!
What transmission configuration did you go with I just started building this kit and see there are different angles of the trans you can do
I stuck with the "stock" on that the manual recommends.
As far as the little gnss I went from running 255 254 256 at a plays and 244 245 on their Timing System.
I go back to my home track I had to reset the tuneup for the different surface but I couldn't go faster than a 265 no matter what I did with the tune-up I think I ran 6 of them with same et, some different curves but same 2.65..that was frustrating.
I'm really thinking the gnss gets "stuck" at a time. Some sort of glitch. It is frustrating
So my experience with the gnss so far has taught me that for some strange reason it’s more accurate mounted to the rear of the car,than the front of the car.Now I realize it’s so much better to have that weight up front,but try to mount it behind the trans,or on the wheelie bar,and see if your numbers improve
That's pretty interesting. I'll try that. Thanks!!
By accurate you mean compared against a timing system?
Thx.
@@DevastationMtrsports yes
@@Dugnew our next event is two weeks till I can test that. Thx.
Good looking build man. I have a set of the drc 30 tires and they are goon and tacky. I just picked up a set of the 20 compounds.
They feel really nice so far. I'm liking them. Thanks!
do u like drc tires more the reactions?
@@jamesweeks4152 I'm unsure. I run dry tires and the drc heat up quick. I have a set of blue reactions and 20 drc I'm going to test with. I think I like my drc 30 over my orange reactions.
@@jamesweeks4152 I can't really answer that question yet since I only have about 10 passes on the drc tires. So far they're working well though
I use multiple gnss. They're accurate. Always the same. Just an average of .15 slow. Ive made multiple 1.8s hits on different gnss. With my actual track times being 1.77-1.82.
Good to know, thanks! Seems like most have been .15 to .20 slow. If we ever get a full day without rain I'm hoping I can get the car closer into the 2.0s
@@FullThrottleRC good luck. That shouldn't be a problem. Use about 140g of weight on the nose. Try to get your weight bias over 40% up front. 3.5 high traction tune, disable voltage protect. Punch 80% or higher. 35* on the motor. 58-65 in the drk. 12-18 slew. If you're still using the drk for launch control get it to leave as close to 50 on first stage, 65, 78, 90 with 100 on the last stage. No slipper clutch. If your car is setup right that should be an excellent starting point for 1.9-2.0 runs. And if you're running reactions don't use foams. Much better performance on the street.
@@mastermnd22 Thanks!! I'm going to save this reply to try out a few of these things next time I can make some passes.
Just got myself a dr10 kit still getting it up and running but after watching your video wish I'd saved up a bit more and got one of these. Quick question do you run toe in or toe out on the front
This kit was set up to run toe out according to the build manual. On my old car I ran toe in and I may do that on this car too but for now it's working like it is.
@@FullThrottleRC thanks the set up on the dr10 is toe out so I will try it and see how it goes
Id recommended either neutral toe or a lil toe in - toe-in is only required in a small amount to enable the vehicle to gain more stability and compensate for slight changes in geometry and suspension height.... toe out is more for front wheel or awd race cars and or racing on oval or several turn tracks. For straight drag racing I wldnt recommend toe out at all ...💯🏁
Hey, what's good. So I had the same problem or issues. I started I was 2.3 63mph did the same as you same results. I called my buddy he said on a timer it would of been 2.0. I want home made some changes next day I was @ 2.1 2.2 62-66 mph. Timer I was told would of been 2.0 1.9. I been consistent. I have been up and down man. I got that 5 Star chassis now I have to do all this shit over again. Smh lol I know the spoils of racing.
It's a whole lot of testing and trying things! That's the fun in it for me though. The more consistent I am and the more I see constant improvement, I feel good about what I'm doing. And just helping other people along the way with what I learn is what I enjoy!
@@FullThrottleRC You give me good reference points. Good look with that.
merci ;)
you should make a stock vxl car i thank that would be prity cool own one with a dr10 chase with traxxas vxl
I've had a VXL system in the past. I think the last thing I used it in was a Mini E-Revo with a Big Block conversion. Car was insane.
I bought a GNSS; updated the firmware, and can't get it to even set a distance and retain it to get a run. Disasspointing, have other Skyrc products that have been great.
Yesterday I reset the GNSS by pressing the reset button on the device and was able to see some better times. Not sure if it just needed to be reset or what, but for now mine is working.
Make sure you have no rebound in your shocks. Make sure your front suspension on take off isn't drooping or dropping below the centerline of the car.
What part of the front suspension though? Cause I don't think it does but I've also set it where it can droop down instead of lifting with the nose
@@FullThrottleRC Some have said not to let it droop to far. What that is i don't know. 🤣🤔
Any parts are the dr10 parts will do
I'm not quite sure what you're talking about. Sorry
I have seen gnss data like that a couple of times . The mph is faster and its accelerating harder but the time is no faster . It's odd..itll cut off the last .2 of the run on the incremental data sheet .
Yea I'm not quite sure what's going on. Thinking of finding somewhere to set up the dts1 again to test it against that
I still think you should make an extended version of the old wheelie bar for the dr10
also I mean this with no offense, you sound drained in the post test convo. get some sleep brother
Maybe will one day cause I like the adjustment of my old wheelie bar.
And fun fact about that, I probably sound like that because that part was filmed the day after I made those passes, first thing in the morning. Hadn't even finished my coffee yet hahaha. I appreciate it tho!
Hey man im a kid and i dont have $300 dollars for an esc would you have any recomendations for a esc for a drag car
The hobby wing esc I used to run is still a good option. I haven't looked at the Reedy stuff or know the price but I know a lot of people use it too.
@@FullThrottleRC thanks man
From what I heard the gnss is 0.2 seconds slow
Yea I've heard that too but now it seems to be stuck at a 2.45 no matter what I do
Little drive rc here can you please bring me some parts for my rc funny car traxxes
I don't really have any parts for the traxxas funny car anymore. I've been thinking about getting rid of the car itself actually.
Hey continue what u doing cover all side of NPRC.
Appreciate it!