SONY a7R V RAW File Review: 8000 ISO UNUSABLE?!
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This is the RAW File Review of the Sony a7R V. Now that RAW files can be opened in Adobe Lightroom, let's take a look at how the files hold up. I take a look at base ISO 100 in amazing lighting, 200, 4000 and 8000 ISO. Below are links to download sample RAW files for personal use only. Zip 1 bit.ly/3hzUrKA Zip 2 bit.ly/3YuPyD0
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I've had my A7R5 for 3 weeks now and tbh it feels like cheating. Shooting wildlife, portraits products etc. It seems so easy with it. I guess others used to the A1 or the cannon models will know what I mean but compared to my beloved A7R4 I gotta say...its a big step in the right direction
100%. People don't understand how good this thing is with focus.
I just got mine last week, I was shooting it carefreely with one hand in all directions without too much thinking about how it focuses. Went home with 100% sharp images, all in focus in the correct spot. If this is not heavy A7RV easily could be my go-to street camera. Its focus is just wow.
Sounds interesting with the “cannon” models? What are these cannons?
Do you think I will feel any difference with a7R5 compared to my a7III?
OMG, I'm coming from an A7R II and A6500. What a difference when shooting birds or my cats. Yeah, I don't need the same skill level as I did with the older models. Way more shots are keepers.
@LaPoSport I mean the new canon cameras that use the rf mount. They are amazing.
Yes, you'll notice a big difference. I had an a7r4 and an a7iii as a second camera and I can confirm that from the a7iii to the a7r5 is a big difference especially around focus and speed. The a7iii is a truly fantastic camera also though.
ISO 4000 looked very usable, but ISO 8000 looked pretty rough, useful mainly for documentary purposes like photojournalism (admittedly the exact purpose Jared was using it for here). I realized the photo was mostly to show off how usable ISO 8000 was but you had a 14mm lens on a body with IBIS. You could have easily gotten away with 1/30 sec. at ISO 2000.
Yeah I was about to say that, the body has 8 stops of IBIS, some reviewers mentioned it's actually closer to 5 stops but still. With 1/100 the ISO could be set to 2000, at 1/50 even at ISO 1000.
I see what you are saying. However, At 1/30s you might well end up with subject movement blur to the photo.
Maybe, could've gambled on 1/60s and halved ISO quite safely. Probably.
Fro probably got the photos at those settings, but just wouldn't be a video then :) Unless he'd be comparing with the 1.2 at 1/1000 and 1000 ISO.
shit or the fact that sadly 95% of adult men and women assume they camera phones are professional cameras these days when sorry pixil binning a 12mp sensor is still trash.
Keep in mind, IBIS doesn't stabilize the target, it stabilizes your own shake. So you can't just rely on IBIS to lower your iso for moving subjects, people that are actively doing something.
One thing that should be mentioned is that you can run ai denoise on a7rv photos up to iso 12800 and it cleans it up ridiculously good because of the immense amount of detail the camera captures. Lower megapixel cameras struggle with ai denoise at high isos because the noise is essentially erasing the detail since the pixels are a lot bigger. That causes ai denoise to have to guess what the detail was and try to fill it in, and in a lot of cases it isnt very good at that.
I highly recommend inserting your Sony A7rV file "at high ISO" in Capture One and you will see that with the same RAW the result is decidedly very different. The question is always the same: Each file must be "reworked" by the various sw and in this case for the Adobe "package" it is not as good as in Capture One. Then the question arises that each of us develops with our own sw... But we know that up to now Capture One has the best feeling with Sony raws.
Capture One is better than Lr, I agree. But Jared can use Lr for all cameras to compare them consistently
@@hunglemed correct, but I don't argue (or insist) on the contrary only that like everything there is something that works better for both brands. That's all, good light, always.
Dxo's Photolab 5 is THE BEST for high iso picture, nothing can compete with it's deep prime, even capure one.
Fast glass isn’t the only answer, it depends what you are shooting. If subjects are not moving too much then the 5-8 stops of image stab should allow you to slow the shutter to help that high iso problem.
There’s a look to better glass that you don’t get with the other glass. It goes beyond stabilization . .
agree with this. there are always ways around stuff. bottomline is to try to find ways not to shoot on high iso is the main solution. as photographers we can manipulate the conditions to avoid it
But the file shows 1/125s shutter. That's pretty slow already for a candid photography like this (ppl doing their work). Sure you could go to 1/60s ISO 4000 but that would probably cause vast majority of photos to have unvanted motion blur. And you could loose the perfect photo and moment capture to that.
There are really good AI noise reducting programs though. So post processing with DxO or Topaz Labs AI is what I would use if couldn't afford or carry faster glass.
@@m1kel As mostly a wildlife photographer I must disagree. Of course I also have limit to ISO I use, but for modern FF it's 12800 - 25600. My take is that you should never limit yourself or be afraid to take interesting, one of a kind photos in difficult lighting situations.
This principle holds not only for wildlife photography, but equally well for candid photography and all live events.
What you can't achieve with faster glass and better body, you can pretty well compensate with DxO or Topaz Labs AI noise reduction.
Your 4000 iso image could have been an iso 2000 since you shot at 1/200. U could have dropped to 1/100 and drop the iso. I think with that camera could even push the shutter speed lower since the object is not moving that fast.
Incredible images!! I don't look for noise in my shots - I think that the image you take matters. If it's a good picture and the setting, the atmosphere and composition is right, nobody will notice the noise. Never go a complaint - not with my D1x, D700 or R6.
Thank you, Jared!
I have really changed my opinion about iso because of Jared. I used to crave/throw away images because there was too much noise, even though it was exposed correctly and sharp. I too have the a7rV now and Lightroom does do the raw. It’s. Incredible. The noise is so manageable and looks great. I used to see noise and be like. Nope. It sucks. Thank you Jared for alleviating this made up problem in my head.
I also thought noise was not good at all... until I heard a pro photog tell me that a noisy but on focus image is better than no image at all. And these can still be quite usable. We need to review and change all our pre-conceived ideas.
Same, then I started looking closely at the pros photos and you can see it in theirs all the time. Just have to make sure your composition is perfect as cropping will kill it.
Plus there's all the AI de-noising software out there if it really bothers you
I use DX0 RAW 2 as a plugin for Lightroom. The results are superb on higher ISO files.
@@Fontsman have you tried Topaz deNoise? Just wondering because I use it and it’s good but if you’ve tried Topaz and DX0 is better, that would be interesting.
Correct me if I'm wrong but the pictures taken with the 70-200GMII at 1/6400 seem to be with EFCS (mechanical shutter) that affects the bokeh. Need to be fully mechanical (no EFCS) or electronic shutter at fast speeds (> 1/2000 sec ) for optimal bokeh.
After many years of shooting.. then I learn about something.. that is.. a noisy picture is definitely better than no picture or a totally blur picture. I hope I know about this earlier.
Iso 6400 is a good limit if possible but the iso8000 still looks great even though its noisy. In my opinion sony creates one of the most pleasing noise in photos. Its noise doenst have the sharp & distracting appearance and its not too blocky; furthermore it looks like an artistic noise. The higher pixel density of the full frame sensor could also be one of the reasons.
It's always going to be about the glass. Nice vid.
Why is Jared running the shutter so fast in the studio? Are the musicians moving around so unpredictably while doing their thing that you really need the speed?
Best camera I ever had : better AF than the a1 , better colours , better layout and menu; against the a7R4 also better noise as well
A1 AF is significantly better, despite not having the 'AI'
@@timwhite1111 tracking yes , but not focus acquisition IMHO
The results are honestly very good, and this is coming from someone who has extremely low tolerance for noise except when it's used for artistic purposes. Well done Sony!
I just switched to Sony A7RV from Nikon Z7ii (D850 previously) and I must say that nothing beats D850 in terms of high ISO capabilities for stills with 50mpx sensor!
Not for me , I use 200-600 glass for wildlife, and in late afternoon, it's not an ISO you can't go with other cameras as well. Thank you for being honest here!! I deeply appreciate it, best from Uruguay.
Remember Tri-X 400 pushed to 1600? You could almost golf with the grain. In the old days grain wasn't an issue if the image was printed in a newspaper.
DXO Photolab 6 cannot handle the raw files at the moment... but a cunning trick is to open the raw file in Affinity Photo 2, develop it, then save it as a jpg file. Then open the jpg file and process it in the tone mapping persona. You have a choice of treatments... Natural, Detailed, Cool, High contrast Black and White, and Dramatic. You can then fine tune the tone mapping but 'Dramatic' looks a lot like Skittles.
Hey Jared, great review on the A7RV raw files. Would you invest the time and make a comparison to the A7SIII‘s raw files. I have ongoing debates about the the A7SIII being far less ISO noisy. As I am no pro I‘m reaching out to the Fro and his awesome curls. Thank you. 😊
I was looking at the raw files and it wasn’t as big a difference as I thought compare to A6400 I’m using right now. Are we just paying much more for the 4k and 8k video?
I saw a little bit of distortion with the crowd in the first edit. They appeared to be a little flat and stretched. Were the in-body corrections or the Lightroom corrections turned on? or is that a feature of the lens you used?
2:49 - My biggest takeaway here is the relief in knowing I'm not the only one that berates himself like this when I do, or even think, something dumb!
Thanks Jared…but I am surprised you feel the 8000 is unusable (title) but you think it’s okay in the video. Guess we don’t know what you think as with most reviews but at least you let us decide. Thanks again
Jared, I know that you don't like using noise reduction. However, do you believe that noise reduction would be more effective at cleaning up the images without smudging the too much given the higher resolution images produced by this camera vs. other lower resolution sensors?
Edit: I say this coming from an A7IV at 33MP, it has very usable photos at higher ISOs. The A7IV looks cleaner at higher ISO than the A7R5 from what I'm seeing, doing well upwards into 6400 ISO without much noise.
I have no problem with noise. I don’t want to clean it up. It is noise.
DXO Pureraw is insane, and unlike other noise software. It leaves no smudging and actually adds back in detail (some sort of AI I think).
@@77dris Tried out 4 NR options. DxO was the only one that didn't smooth out the detail. Works great with macro where noise matters.
JaredTheLegend, thanks for the video, I appreciate the honesty with while reviews that you provide 👍 💯❤️
Man, It's got best IBIS on a market, 8 stops of stabilization, even with f2.8 go for slower shutter like 1/50 and 1/30 still can get crisp sharp image!
i guess “the way to make it cleaner” was not to use a 1.2 lens. its really shoot on a lower iso.
id say that clearly it was misleading abit since proposing to use a faster lens means technically not shooting in 8000iso.
That was his point, just said in a different way obviously.
I’ve had my Sony A7RV for almost a year now and I’m struggling with it. It’s my first mirrorless coming from the D850 and I just can’t get my photos right. Also the ergonomics are not working for my hands. I’m constantly hitting buttons mid shoot changing settings constantly. I think I’m going back to Nikon.
Also I think I hate the EVF, there is something pure about looking through the glass itself and only concentrating on the histogram.
It’s also possible I’m projecting myself onto the Sony A7RV and using it as a scapegoat when really it’s my depression more than likely causing poor photographer performance and me disliking every photo I’ve been taking.
Thank you, Jared. That was very informative. I downloaded your images to play with, which will be very helpful. I plan on buying an A7rV but heard that the storage cards are ungodly expensive around $1,250.00 each! On Tony and Chelsea's channel. What are you using. That type of pricing would stop me from buying the camera now.
1.2k? What kind of nonsense are you watching
@@icheeseit_3050 Watch the review by Tony and Chelsea Northam; their end of the year best of the best round up.
I have CF A cards from Sony and they only cost 200+ to 300+@@erik1836
Damn I was hoping you would have dropped that pic you used the 70-200 on. Wanted to compare it to my a1 with the same lens..
I’m torn. I have an A7R3 and routinely shoot high iso and don’t see the noise like on the 4 and 5.
Well you are going to save yourself a chunk of money. Good on you
@@doghouseriley4732 doubt it. I’ll probably invest into a medium format setup.
Do you think this camera would be good for taking baseball photos?
When can we have Skittles for CaptureOne?
Resolution is insane.
Fro knows fro-toe!!
It would be interesting if Sony will make a new 40+MP sensor camera. The a7r3 is a good camera but still lacks the modern features and build.
Question, Sony a7 RV or Nikon Z9 ? Can' t decide 😜...
Puh...124 MEGABYTES filesize? That's insane...I love my Nikon Z9 with HE* compression that allows me to get *virtually lossless* 45MP files at only about 20-25MB per file. Thanks for this infomative video!
so in order to beat the grain at iso 8000 is to spend massively for 1.2 glass? yeesh. How about using some much less expensive offboard lighting..or a flash?
You can't always do that. Especially with this documentary photo style
@@muzlee7479 Understood and I totally get that. The A7RIV is not the right tool to use in low light situations then. Use a lower megapixel camera with larger pixels for such situations no?
@@cryhavoc38 totally agree, but not testing the camera in all situations is just stupid
Skittles is awesome. Will it work with DaVinc Resolve as a LUT? Because of the great color grading power of this program, I’m looking to edit booth video and photos from my Sony a7m4. Thanx
Is Sony S-log easier to edit than Canon C-log?
I'm shooting ISO 12800 without second thought on my R6 Mark II. It's like ISO 1600 on my old DSLRs from 15 years ago.
And if you use DXO PureRaw, you can now make almost any image look like ISO200... it's really impressive and unlike other noise reduction software that makes images look mushy and fake. There are no R6 Mark II profiles (or A7RV afaik) as of yet but they are coming. I tried it on some of Fro's R5 sample raw files from a couple years ago and ISO 16000 looked almost perfect.
i have actully shoot with same iso on my 6d mk ll dslr with no problems im not afraid of noise grain etc sometimes it gives the images more personality to it ..
You can't compare noise between images that are 20MP with those that are 60MP. If you resize the 60MP to 20MP, the noise will also shrink, and may even effectively disappear. If you do the reverse, the upsized 20MP image will have larger noise too. But the 60MP image will always contain more detail.
@@adamadamis 24 MP actually. I've upscaled the R6 II files to 45 MP using Adobe Camera Raw and compared them to the R5 files and they look essentially the same. Megapixels can be overrated because the sensors are all the same size and once you start dividing that small sensor over about 20 MP, it's a point of diminishing returns.
@@77dris That's your personal opinion. Suggesting that more megapixels isn't that big a deal is subjective and for others the difference may be huge. What's also important is how much the lens can resolve. If the lens sees 24 MP, then you won't benefit as much.
Nothing to do with the files (or skill, or camera), but 1:43 the bokeh looks surprisingly busy and uneven. Anyways, thanks for the video and info.
Great images Jared. Question: For the very first full stadium view photo, where was your focal point, focus mode, and fstop?
F8 12mm iso 100. It is on the top left metadata. F8 at 12mm most of the image will be in focus.
@@jaybeckerich I haven't downloaded the files yet.
@@crestonburks2141 I haven't either, you can see on the video.
modern cameras spoil us for higher ISOs - you can shoot like ISO 12600 with a R3 and the noise is like ISO 400 from the original 20 year old 1D...which in itself was a stop better than most film grain @ ISO 400 at the time...
I still feel that slide reversal film has more DR than even the best cameras today. Velvia, man that was a lovely film, fond memories of Kodakachrome 25 too...
Sony A7r4 or Canon 6D Mark II?
Which filter/software did you use for the editing @jared polin
Yeah, I just have a Nikon D600. I plan to get a Nikon mirrorless this coming year. Either the Z6II, or the Z7II.
I have 1.8 lenses. Can't afford 1.4 yet, let alone 1.2. I'm working to get there though.
Both are fantastic cameras, dont let any of the rubbish on here persuade you differently. I have had both, my z6ii has over 250k shutter count, used professionally for over 1 year nearly every day. Fantastic camera, amazing low light performance! Z7ii is a little bit more sluggish in low light but those 45mp files are really incredible! Z glass is unbelievable!
@@LiamFyfe thanks. I'll be using my F glass for the moment until I can afford Z glass. I have so far:
Nikon 50mm 1.8G
Nikon 85mm 1.8G
Nikon 105mm 2.8G Micro VR
Nikon 70-200mm 2.8G VRII
@@elboogie2324 there is nothing wrong with any of those lenses! The ftz works great and although i have now traded up to the z trinity from the f, i still use my 28mm 1.4g and 105mm 1.4g on both z bodies! In my opinion they work equally as good, the punch in zoom feature with the evf, evf in general (seeing your exposure in real time) and ibis will seriously impress you! They are for me as a full time working professional photographer a huge upgrade over the dslr’s (D5, D850, D750) i have used/owned in the past! Honestly z6ii is the camera i would choose for 90% of my work!
@@elboogie2324 also quickly, the z6ii will wipe the floor with the z7ii, a7r5, r5 etc at high iso. I have now sold my z7ii and have a z9 and at high iso i still use the z6ii. Files to me just look better, im often shooting fast subjects in dark areas like caves and heavily wooded areas. Z6ii dynamic area af mode. More keepers than i have time to post product! Z7ii/z9 in good light the files are beautiful! But unless you often are cropping or making large prints there is no need for either! On a computer screen with the same lens on any camera its really hard to see the difference. My opinion save a 1000 bucks, get a z6ii and use the money you saved to get one of the fantastic z lenses! Z85mm 1.8 or z50 1.8 are so amazingly sharp and they really are a step up in comparison to the older f lenses! Comparable to zeiss optics with af and better focus breathing! Enjoy whatever you decide✌️
It's really cheap to get fast Z mount lenses, you just have to look for 3rd party ones. Like you get 45mm f/0.95 for less than a $800 and a 50mm f1.4 f mount is less than $500 NEW
You can buy a lot of affordable lenses used as well.
This camera is huge like a medium format. Why does each iteration of this camera series keep getting larger.
85 f1.2 gotta be out soon right?
Wow, the way to beat high ISO is not use high ISO. Pure genius insight.
Is there anywhere where you can download a sony profile for everyone on most wanted lists around the world so let's say your taking pictures in the stadium etc... and ping Americas Most Wanted bad person shows up on your camera? Facial recognition ...like people do for weddings so it's easier to find the bride & groom etc, only a database of profiles of criminals. Also, could one use a picture on a monitor to make a profile? Maybe celebrities too. Last, since the profiles can be placed separately on memory cards now, can the profiles be swapped between sony bodies. I'm using an a6000 and it only holds 99 in body, but was reading about how the newer bodies are unlimited and can be stored on memory card/chips etc. and was curious if maybe you knew. Great videos, and Thank you.
Do you think the results would have been similar color and lighting wise popping a flash? I’m in a lot of scenarios now with weddings and want to maintain color and lighting to look natural while maintaining decent iso or would you prefer the grain?
I want to upgrade from my A7RIII, but i'm shooting a lot more low light, clubs, underground raves, and using my 1.4 I can shoot up to 16000 ISO effectively and still have cropping power. I also do portraits on site at these events sometimes and the extra MP is great for that as well... I just feel like 60MP is far too much for what I do and would be too noisy (my clients would probably notice that as well). But I want that upgraded AF and video... why can't sony make another R series at 42MP, I think that's the perfect MP range for what I do and is extremely versatile. (Weddings, Portraits, events, clubs, landscape).
Try using AI noise reduction, I would personally recommend DXO PhotoLab6 and their new DeepPrime XD. Its not only reducing noise but providing more details, and its not inventing them like you would exect, its trained on removing noise, unlike some other tools that also add details that was not there. Give it a try and you will probably able to shoot 16,000 ISO even with f8.
@@KrunoslavStifter at the moment I can shoot 16000 effectively as long as my subject is exposed correctly, and just hit the dark areas with a noise brush. But I will try that program you mentioned and see if I can push it a third stop more. Thank you for the recommendation
@@Hathnotseen I think you will be surprised the level of detail and clean files you can get. I you prefer to work with Capture One and or Lightroom, the good thing is that DXO exports linear DNG with all the corrections and clean , but still raw other programs can use to do as much as you would with original raw , but with no noise. Some people go with that workflow. Personally I find DxO PhotoLab does all I need, but I do mist auto mask selections stuff from Lightroom. And some of the presets. So sometimes I do use DNG to continue working in Lr. Other times I just export TIFF or JPEG. Anyway, hope you will find it useful. Cheers!
@@KrunoslavStifter hmm yeah workflow would have to be adjusted. Perhaps do everything normal except flag the problem files then export all but those, adjust in the noise program, then edit those and export last
@@Hathnotseen Sure. I think its quite flexible in terms of our options now. So I'm sure you can find the workflow that suits you the best. Oh, one other thing that DXO is very good at is applying various lens corrections, especially when it comes to correcting lens distortions and imperfections without cropping in. This is particularly visible with wide angle lenses. Until I started to look into it, I didn't realize just how much image is cropped out with Lightroom and Capture one to correct many issues with lenses. In the wide angle lens department this could cut off few mm of expensive wide angle lenses. Something we normally pay a lot for those extra mm in the lens. Here is what I mean, you can see a guy demonstrating it in a video. th-cam.com/video/-l90Qah3YFs/w-d-xo.html
I’ve just vomited over the basin, it looked horrible trust me on that but then! BOOM, I slapped Skittles on it and it’s fine.
I‘m about to make the move, ditch my a7iv and upgrade to the a7r5 as I’m mostly doing portrait.
As a regular Fropack 1-3 user for about a year or so (thanks to my mum who gifted me the bundle for my birthday) I‘m really looking forward to Pack 4👀
Shit why do you need to shoot at 8000iso in a dim room with such a camera?
Compared to the A7RIII, the ISO8000 looks unusable. When you turn of the color noise reduction you see the problem of the camera and I think, that this is something, the processor could clean up.
While Sony claimed there would be some improvement in IQ due to the faster processor, it turns out that the opposite is true. At least that´s what the studio scene comparison tool at dpreview suggests. Compared to the A7rIV, the A7rV is visibly worse. Unlike going from A7rII to A7rIII, where the sensor remained identical but faster wiring allowed for an improvement in IQ, this time it´s the opposite way around.
This is a very disappointing release from Sony. afaiac, all the technical improvements are secondary to the one main thing: The imaging sensor, and IQ.
@@pixelpusher1393 Same thoughts here. It is really visably worse. As I donwloaded the files, I was a bit shocked, how bad the images look like. If you push the shadow from images over ISO3200 just a little bite, the whole shadows are covered with white spots.
For me personal, this camera is unusable. I wanted it to be the successor of my A7RIII, but this will not happen.
@@Benjamin_Jehne It seems as if there´s a lot more green noise than in the A7rIV.
I´m puzzled about one thing, though: At low ISO, the A7rV looks consistently sharper than the A7rIV on dpreview. This becomes also noticeable in the 240mp pixelshift sample, though it´s not quite as visible. The differences aren´t huge, but they are there.
And another thing: I saw a french review video comparing IQ of A7rIV and A7rV at higher ISOs. The comparison was fairly systematic: Same lighting conditions, same object, etc. He came to the exact opposite conclusion: Chroma noise is less in the A7rV.
Unfortunately, I forgot to save the URL. Was unable find the video again since.
I own an A7rII and was hoping to upgrade to the A7rV, but this seems rather unlikely. All options are on the table: Upgrading to an A7rIV, trying to get a bargain A1 once the A2 is there, or even switching brands. If however the A7rV is in fact better and sharper at low ISOs than an A7rIV and hence pixelshift yields better results, than that might persuade me to go for an A7rV after all.
Rumor has it though that Canon may release an R5 II with 60mp and something like pixelshift.....
Hiya, do the RV’s lower megapixel modes have a positive effect on ISO? At lower megapixels does it rival the A7IV or siii for low light? Thanks.
Cameras being better or worse in low light is a myth. Both perform basically identically in low light. If you compare two shots, both taken at iso 12800, on one the 7rv and one on the 7iv, if you match both images size when zooming the noise is identical. The reason you don't perceive it on the 7iv is because you are getting a smaller image with less detail. Since you can zoom into a shot taken with the 7rv like 300% or sometimes more, the noise will seem more perceivable. You can zoom into a 7iv photo 200% and after that you start seeing individual pixels, less detail.
@@thisiserich thanks for your explanation buddy! That makes sense.
I know you don't like auto ISO, but this video demonstrated that it would've been better to use it in this case.
How does auto ISO help here?
@@muzlee7479 To help Jared expose his photos properly so he wouldn't have to +1 or +2 expose his images in lightroom
@@jeroenvdwit's not like that hurts the image, these cameras have an insane dynamic range.
Did anyone feel the body get warm with normal shooting? I’m trying to figure out why mine is getting warm. Thanks!
Yes! Mine does it. Currently took it to sony. Also have lots of noise at high iso, maybe due to that extra temperature. At first told myself its normal because I record pics uncompressed raw and in 2 sd cards. Also eye detection and burst mode. Not to mention that is summer and its 38 celsius outside. But then I made tests at home with a more controlled environment and still got warm after mild photo use with no burst or eye af. So, since the camera is 1 month old I decided to have it checked just in case
… how the hell the 50 1.2 shoot is at ISO 4.000? The 12-24 2.8 is at 8.000, so it should be around 1.600 or less … 🤔 …
Just shot a college basketball game, and Lightroom is saying that my raw files are not supported still . Any tips 🙏
Update?
Missed focus on picture with 8000 ISO )))
The sky looked awful with skittles on that photo of the stadium. I liked the other presets on the photo before
ROFL!!!! Lol!!! I’ve done that before!!! Took a picture and looked for myself!!!
Skittles!
Just use the AI noise reduction or something like DXO DeepPrime XD and you can use files up to crazy ISO values. Judging ISO simply based on out of camera raw is like judging camera colors based on JPEG. Its not something you want to do unless you are complete amateur or in a real time shooting and delivery situation.
Never
5 years from now: just use ai to generate the image
@@muzlee7479 Not the same. Generated image uses other images to generate a new one, based on the training. What DXO does is demoseicing and de noising based on recognition of the noise, in order to leave the original image nice and clean. This is best approach. Making effectively this stories about what noise level camera has natively obsolete. Topaz Labs DeNoise AI or similar programs take different approach, they do in fact generate approximate image with new set of details. If they get the details of original wrong they generate different image. DXO does not do that, they spend their AI on removing noise leaving original clean, not changing it. For this kind of photography I prefer that approach. I apprised Frono knows marketing did not try to sell affiliate links to DXO, because that is what he is good at. He is no ta photographer of any merit, he is a salesmen and marketer on TH-cam. So I'm surprised he didn't try to sell it via affiliate link. Because it makes his approach pretty much obsolete.
@@KrunoslavStifter All AIs work in the same way. It was also trained on other images. You cannot remove parts of the image (the noise) without generating new parts based on guessing. And even if you can perfectly remove the noise (which you can't do) how is it not a relevant information to know how much noise a sensor generates? Should we just not talk about it? Yeah, what's the problem with non sharp lenses? You can just sharpen them in post. chromatic aberration? Just correct for it in lightroom lol. Distorted image? Photoshop can got you... Why even bother getting the correct expo when you can edit it after. We should just use our phones since ai can upscale and denoise.
And I'm not saying we shouldn't use these tools but where is the line? Do you really believe it doesn't matter what goes into the program?
@@muzlee7479 "All AIs work in the same way. It was also trained on other images. You cannot remove parts of the image (the noise) without generating new parts based on guessing. "
Than how do you think Demosaicing process work? Its guess work. Your bayer filter, much like one in Sony a7RV and virtually all other CMOS sensor cameras have, is not capturing a full color image, it has holes in it. So algorithms have to do some guess work. No AI just good old fashion math. What AI does is better job, And for the record not all AI does the same thing, it depends on what is has been trained and what are the parameters. Since we have established that every image coming out of standard cameras we all use is guess work, first in the Demosaicing process, than in color science of each particular brand, than in developeing raw in the software based on its particular profile etc. The idea that there is no guess work or subjective interpretation of colors is false. As for AI, the difference between DXO and say Topaz, the two most popular noise reduction software relaying on AI is that DXO does not event new details based on trained images. It was not trained for that. It was trained to reduce noise. Topaz is trained in both noise reduction and reinterpretation of actual details. The difference is pretty significant in their approach. You can always trust DXO to show actual thing camera camptured + demoseicing process, and minus the noise. Topaz will try too keep the original as good as possible, but depending on the settings and AI model it will also try to reconstruct new details, sometimes resulting in new approximate image details.
"And even if you can perfectly remove the noise (which you can't do) how is it not a relevant information to know how much noise a sensor generates?"
Well its like Ansel Adams would argue. It matters what the end image is when you show it to people. How you got there, is process of image making, involving the negative, the retouching and print. Camera is essentially recording tool it is not a storytelling device. That part is up to the photographer. Retouching, color correction/grading, choosing to print and at what size, what paper, how to light it on the wall, what frame to choose etc. All that is part of the process, leading to the final image. And that is what matters.
"And I'm not saying we shouldn't use these tools but where is the line? Do you really believe it doesn't matter what goes into the program? "
If you are interested in authenticity, let me put it this way: "The true authenticity of photographs for me is that they usually manipulate and lie about what is in front of the camera, but never lie about the intentions behind the camera.” ― Wolfgang Tillmans,
"Should we just not talk about it? Yeah, what's the problem with non sharp lenses? You can just sharpen them in post. chromatic aberration? Just correct for it in lightroom lol. Distorted image? Photoshop can got you... Why even bother getting the correct expo when you can edit it after. We should just use our phones since ai can upscale and denoise."
Your job is to tell a story with an image. How you want to tell that story and what tools you want to use, does not not matter unless you are dishonest about the process and intention. If AI tools help you, than use them. Its important not to lie about intention behind using the tools. That is what matters. Not the tools themselves. If you want to use old analogue film camera , that's fine. What matters is the story you can tell with images and what are you intentions in telling those stories.
If AI has generated an image, I don't mind the image itself, as long as the person behind it is not selling it as their own creation and claiming no AI was used. As for Noise Reduction or upscaling, that is not image generation in the same way as text input for an image, its a more sophisticated tool allowing you to clean up photo still representing what your were trying to capture with a camera. Every image in light room gets some noise reduction, sharpening, profile lens correction by default. It saves us from buying super expensive heavy super corrected glass , but does it matter for end result. I don't think it does.
Yo Fro, when can we expect the new Canon R6 Mark II User's Guide?
I tried using the old one but the menu's have changed significantly. Also the "L" face tracking is no longer an option on Canon R6 Mark II's.
Skittles. 🙄 Now let’s lift the shadows and see what’s hiding.
For all practical purposes, photography is dead. It started dying when We started taking still shots from video capture Which is basically what we're doing today a million shots in 1 second pick your best shot that's not photography. Add in the state of our country the financial shape that we're in who the hell wants to spend money on personal Tech. I'm not mad because my Nikon D750 is unsellable, it's actually a good thing because now I have reason to keep it Even though I haven't taken a photo in a couple of years out of pure disinterest.
I'm happy using my Canon R7 with 8000 iso ... 😎
Did you use noise reduction on the 8000 iso shot?
Jared does not use NR
@@RobDTom Ofc he use some NR, but indirectly as Lightroom default processing. You can open same file in other program like RawTreapee and see insane color splotches at 8000. He does not use extra NR like Topaz , but all comercial raw software use some NR by default.
I wouldn't spend that kind of money for such bad high ISO performance. Going with the A7IV.
So what is dynamic range like at Iso 8000 like. Maybe 6 stops. Hoping photons to photos can post some results soon.
Curious as to why that matters? At 8000
Iso there’s not a lot of light. You either get the shot or you don’t.
🤠
or you can shoot at 1/30 1/60 :)
1/30 or even 1/60 for humans ain't the smartest
@@muzlee7479 burst mode will insure a few shots are in focus.
I've shot my Z9 with adapted glass at 9000 iso and still very usable images.
I use my R6 Mark II with adapted glass at ISO 12800 all day long and it looks so clean I don't even use NR as it looks better than ISO 1600 on my older DSLRs. Cameras these days are incredibly clean.
@@77dris True. My old D850 anything over ISO 400 I could see it kinda bad. Now even with adapted glass I don't even start to see noise until over 1000 ISO. Native glass I don't see noise until around 2000 ISO.
It’s all well and good, but hobbyists don’t have a limitless budget.
I suppose it's a good thing that this video isn't dedicated to hobbyists lol.
Good thing hobbyists aren't the market for these cameras.
Men nikon z6 a 10,000 is better.
My A7R IV and the RV sux when it comes to lowlight performance. lower iso or not. its grainy as hell. super dissapointed. Canon is far superior in this regard.
I feel the iso on this camera is not great.
Why?
@@froknowsphoto starts to get very noisy at 500 onwards. Try to keep it around 100-400 iso. I use 90mm.
First!!!!
r6 canon better at 12800 iso
I added some titrium nitride on the a few of the diodes along with electrical nanometer ceramic continuity resisters in 4 areas on chip board and can have 400iso noise level at 4000iso on my A7R IVA . ball up.