This series is very relaxing to watch and very informative. Nice to see someone actually taking the time to teach us something that's real world usage instead of the over the top tech nobody actually needs
If you're looking to get a good powerstroke checkout bill at powerstroke help in Georgia he has a TH-cam channel too he know everything nut and bolt for all ford diesels including idi and 6.7
I recently bought a w250 with 413km on it and hearing you say "being a cummins with only 400 on it its fine" is really reassuring my confidence in the truck I bought
Professional tip of the day. Use a small welding tip on your acetylene torch for pinpoint heating accuracy on stuck bolts. It keeps you from burning everything around the bolt that you're trying to heat. Wrap everything else in a cheap Harbor Freight welding blanket for protection.
I picked up a 1985 one ton dully Chevy thats been in deep south texas all its life no rust anywhere also picked up a 98 12 valve with a 5 speed GUESS WHAT I'M GONNA DO
Thanks! Man! Ive built alotta gas race engines when i was young. Worked on alot of tractor trailers too! And yet, Your still teaching me stuff! Awesome stuff because now i have a Cummins!
Hey man I work at Cummins Darlington in the UK you said that the cross hatching on the bore is for the piston rings to bite, now the crosshatching within the bore if actually for oil control. If the angle of the lines is too step the oil may triple down the cylinder too quick not keeping it lubricanted and too shallow an angle can harm emissions as you will be buying excessive oil. The more you know :)
If the bore is "polished" shiny the piston rings have removed the crosshatching and this can have a massive affect on the engines oil control and cause excessive piston wear
We need more Canadians on TH-cam. Just for the accent. I'm always shocked at the way I sound on camera. Keep up the good work. Killer fork lift skills. LOL
He should be concerned. The EGR, DEF, and SCR in those trucks is complete trash. Every year they manage to make it slightly better but after 50k miles or so there's always stupid $$$$ problems that arise. If he's deleted and turned up the boost on a stock engine then he's degrading the lifespan of that engine. All of the automatics (AISIN & Chrysler) are trash if you always romp on it like an idiot. The G56 is solid though. Oh, and Cleetus was bought out by Chevy to talk trash about Cummins and get a free truck in the process. Big youtubers are always shady like that.
If Cleetus was sponsored by Chevy in any way, he HAS to say so in the first 45 seconds of the video. If he gets caught, he does get in trouble. Aaron would know what the penalties are
I'll stand behind Cummins every day of the week. My Gramps has a Dodge ram 3500 atm owned a trucking company and he's always had Dodge with Cummins and for semi trucks he's a Kenworth owner. But we're talking old Kenworth k100 and the old armadillo
Mark M I can't speak to that exactly because I don't own such a truck. Everyone I know with one was smart enough to delete them or buy them already deleted. I do know the company I work/drive for used to have a 2011ish 3500 or 4500 cab and chassis with something like a 20 or 25 foot dry van style box on the back. We used it to deliever full pallets of auto parts to 6-8 NAPA stores. The issues that arrised were electrical/mainly wiring related and transmissions/clutches. This was a manual transmission 2wd as well. I don't believe it left our possession until 2015 or so with something like 380,000miles on the clock. Pretty rough running conditions as well. Always driving at night so winters were rough in it. It was a DEF truck but didn't suffer much at all. It was put in the ditch once which resulted in it slightly catching on fire. Lol Otherwise it lasted pretty well considering what a van body/box, full liftgate and an ali-arc out front weighs. Then figure the nearly 10 full pallets of auto parts every night of the week. We only got away from that to go back to a small Freightliner M2. No way a GMC, Chevy or Ford would've survived that life back then. MAYBE these days but it's unlikely.
777jones I bet man ,from the looks of the vehicles I see coming out of the Midwest seems like it would be a constant battle to work on older trucks and shit out there
If the threads are half decent on the exhaust manifold studs, take two new nuts and tight them together on the stud. Then apply heat and use a socket on the nuts to remove.
I know this is a old video, but I usually weld a nut to the end of the stud thats seized and it helps heat the stud up and most of the time they come out.
hey buddy a little trick for you - heat up then hit with a crayola crayon " capillary action draws wax [n then bolt will come out sometimes no tools just finger
Nope the cheap orange cans are just as bad as they were back then. I trust Mobil1 for basic filtration. If you want your 5.9 to last forever go with the LF9028 or similar 2 stage full flow and bypass filter.
I have long said I wouldn't buy an engine if it had a fram filter on it, and I've refused to use fram filters when family or a customer brings one for an oil change. Generally speaking I use wix xp filters on my stuff, and my customers stuff. However I have been tempted to try the lf9028 I believe it is on my trucks. Supposedly very good filter, costs around $30 though vs about $10 for the wix xp, big jump up from a $4 fram deal, but with the money I spend on my truck and the money it makes me, I feel like i can afford a few extra bucks to protect it.
trythisiptv I've been using fram filters for almost a decade and haven't seen one engine blow up because of one. My uncles Honda Accord has 240K on fram filters and conventional oil.
Don't get me wrong, I'm just sharing my experiences, I haven't seen a fram filter destroy an engine either, but I have seen them come incredibly close multiple times. Just a month or two ago a family member brought their car to me for shocks, and it had a little funny sound at idle. Turns out the fram filter was severely restricting oil flow, enough to make a nasty lifter tap at idle but not enough to trigger the idiot light. The glue at the filter material seam came loose and there was no metal crimped around it like a wix filter has, so the material began coming loose until it began to plug up the oil passages. Obviously they would be out of business if every filter failed, and many don't, my dad has used fram filters for decades, and only stopped once he saw that filter clog oil passages and my cut apart filters to see the difference. I know I won't change anyone's opinion, nor am I trying to, but in the same breath, I'm not about to start using fram filters now either. I know people who have $100 ebay turbos running 30+ psi for years on their cars and trucks. I also know my luck will never support such behavior, Either I'm terribly rough on stuff or just have awful luck but I prefer to avoid the risk of ultra-cheap parts, filters, or anything that will take my expensive engines with them if they fail. No made in china injector nozzles for me.
That dodge you pulled the engine from was serviceable for at least a few hundred thousand more miles, I mean that fender was only rusted around the wheel well
Every engine you've seen at junkyard has been locked up? For what, security? Locked in a vault, cage, fence, what? If you mean they've all been unable to rotate internally, why in the hell were you testing every engine in the junkyard? Why does every engine you've ever seen in a junkyard use a Fram filter? There are cheaper filters on the market. It stands to reason someone would use a cheaper or more expensive filter eventually. Guess they're all still on the road.
Lol no the engines were seized, every single engine that had that orange with black Fran oil filter all had the engines seize up, those Fran filters have cardboard in them and pieces break off and get inside the engine, this I found out later
Geez, I remember when I replaced the cracked stock iron manifold on my 2001, I can't believe Cummins used to have those awful log turbo manifolds on these engines. The cast steel 3 piece split volute turbo manifold I replaced mine with has been going strong for nearly 7 years now.
Do you have personal experience with a piston distorting because it was set on its side? Ive worked with a lot of aluminum pistons and have never once seen something like that.
DEBOSS GARAGE that's seems really strange to me. Now I've gotta go set some pistons on their sides. Six months from now I'll have no idea why they are there :)
Do R/C! I've done a lot also, I think laying them carefully on a clean surface won't damage them. Some guys are a little ham handed and bang them together or put them down hard and they get scratched, gouged and dented. I've seen knuckleheads ruin perfectly good parts just by not being careful or not giving a f#ck.
Hayden Denard I see the same issue with cylinder liners. The only way the metal would deform is if it were pushed with enough force to enter it's plastic deformation phase and the weight of the liner itself just isn't going to do that. Maybe if you put a bunch of weight on top of it while it's on its side.
I own a 2003 cummins, has ran like a scalded ape since I bought it, 398k miles and 800 hp later #5 ate an exhaust valve. The head has never been off the truck until then, pulled the head and every cylinder had perfect cross hatching. No idea how as the truck was ran pretty hard. Made a shit load of power and pulled often aswell.
You disassembled that truck with such care and finesse lol. I’ve had pretty good success welding nuts to the exhaust studs letting them cool some then with great care and finesse put you impact wrench on it lol. Joking aside, I am serious about the impact. You just have to know your gun well and be easy on the trigger and let those “ good vibrations “ go to work. Lol.
I just redid a 24v with #1 and 6 cracked compression rings in the piston. Being a machinist by trade ive never liked the drill hones. I think the variation goes against what I was taught . Not to say its wrong or doesn't work . I just would rather send the block to a susen hone w/ 280 grit stone. Tell the new owner get a HE351 he will enjoy the updated turbo . It comes stock on a 04-07 ram.
When pulling the crank out it doesn't actually matter where you start removing bolts because let's not forget you have oil clearance say like 2-4thou so your crank is on the top main bearings while the engine is upside down!
When you are using the hammer to "shock" those studs loose you need to apply more power. The light repeated taps arent going to work as well. Give it a few good whacks.
Gas only in my resume', do those piston coolers have a much smaller tip than the opening on the saddle ? Is there a dedicated feed for them somehow ? seems like it would be tough to keep pressure up with 6 open bleeds on the main gallerie like that.
Been looking for a 12 or 24v for my excursion swap I guess the lesson learned here is don't be scared of a high mileage, crusty 5.9. lol. Seen some ugly ones so far. Question on block deck prep, was that a regular steel wire wheel? and I am assuming part 2 shows you going over the head?
I know you work on older motors (5.9's and the lot) but the 6.7 is getting close to 10yrs in some trucks, would you ever do a video about the 6.7 cummins. I would like to hear your thoughts on them in general (maybe a everything wrong with video or if its worth getting one over a 5.9?)
idk why more people dont get the coolant bypass kit and that way the back cylinder number 6 gets all the flow it needs to keep it cooler so it doesnt take out the rest of the engine.. the kit is cheap enough and fairly easy to install other than knocking out the "frost plug" in the back of the head which can be a little bit of a paint haha
I'm looking for a dipstick tube and dipstick for my 2000 dodge ram 2500 5.9 cummins. Hard to find them, what do you recommend for an alternative to it.
In some parts of your day today, Job-Activities it looks like you just having fun. I noticed you use the forklift to lift the head off on average how much does that weigh??
My auto shop teacher tried that on a diesel ford tractor, didn't really work but helped. I have seen where people grind out the cracks and fill them in. FYI if you grind a crack weld at each end of it so it doesn't spread when you grind it out
Can you swap a 2005 dodge 1500 four door body to a 1999 dodge diesel 3500 frame ? Will the body fit and what’s parts transfer over if it does? Aloha from hawaii James
Wow!! This is a great video, I have heard that there may be only 3 cam shaft bearings, and if during the rebuild, will you install additional cam bearings? I have older 24 valve engines and would like to install stronger valve springs. What is your take on the number of cam bearings? 🙄
Hi am stuck and don't know what to do anymore and would really like some help. I have and 97 12v and it doesn't charge the RPM gauge doesn't work I'm stuck in limp mode I think it's 2nd gear the grid heater doesn't work and I can't ready the codes .I changed the alternator and still nothing i hear the cps can do this but would like your opinion on it thx
i got an 01 2500 with the 5.9, i was trying to find out because it has not the 53 block it has the "3bc 123" but no sure if this the good or not that good block, any help, please!
Usin the wire wheel on the deck gave me flash backs lol used to get threatened with extreme violence by the head mechanic if I even thought about doing it. It was either use a wetstone with diesel or it got surfaced. Also why not flush/clean out the oil gallaries since its completely dissasembled anyway?
This series is very relaxing to watch and very informative. Nice to see someone actually taking the time to teach us something that's real world usage instead of the over the top tech nobody actually needs
Thank god for TH-cam and Canadians. I swear all the best diesel channels are you guys. I'm on the market for an 06-07 because of you!
If you're looking to get a good powerstroke checkout bill at powerstroke help in Georgia he has a TH-cam channel too he know everything nut and bolt for all ford diesels including idi and 6.7
"it's not going to go to the moon" - ...has literally driven enough distance to have gone to the moon and back more than twice already...
I recently bought a w250 with 413km on it and hearing you say "being a cummins with only 400 on it its fine" is really reassuring my confidence in the truck I bought
Professional tip of the day. Use a small welding tip on your acetylene torch for pinpoint heating accuracy on stuck bolts. It keeps you from burning everything around the bolt that you're trying to heat. Wrap everything else in a cheap Harbor Freight welding blanket for protection.
I like your ways sir, ... the way you carefully remove trucks from engines with a forklift.
I picked up a 1985 one ton dully Chevy thats been in deep south texas all its life no rust anywhere also picked up a 98 12 valve with a 5 speed GUESS WHAT I'M GONNA DO
please dont cummins swap it
Fooken send it
Drop in an srt4 out of a neon?
Put a manual in it please
Who cares what you are going to do it’s your trucks
Thanks! Man! Ive built alotta gas race engines when i was young. Worked on alot of tractor trailers too! And yet, Your still teaching me stuff! Awesome stuff because now i have a Cummins!
Hey man I work at Cummins Darlington in the UK you said that the cross hatching on the bore is for the piston rings to bite, now the crosshatching within the bore if actually for oil control. If the angle of the lines is too step the oil may triple down the cylinder too quick not keeping it lubricanted and too shallow an angle can harm emissions as you will be buying excessive oil. The more you know :)
If the bore is "polished" shiny the piston rings have removed the crosshatching and this can have a massive affect on the engines oil control and cause excessive piston wear
We need more Canadians on TH-cam. Just for the accent. I'm always shocked at the way I sound on camera. Keep up the good work. Killer fork lift skills. LOL
He doesn't sound Canadian at all to me.
Ha. If YT ever shuts down Canada will go into a recession.
The humble mechanic. Keep it up bud
Cross hatching is also done to give the oil a surface to hold on to during engine break in and while you seat your piston rings.
I love how the sped-up footage of the forklift sounds exactly like one of the motorbikes in GTA: Vice City.
And cleetus McFarland is looking at trading in his Dodge that only has around 60,000 miles cuz he's concerned with reliability
Ren Höek For a Duramax of all things. What a goof.
He should be concerned. The EGR, DEF, and SCR in those trucks is complete trash. Every year they manage to make it slightly better but after 50k miles or so there's always stupid $$$$ problems that arise. If he's deleted and turned up the boost on a stock engine then he's degrading the lifespan of that engine. All of the automatics (AISIN & Chrysler) are trash if you always romp on it like an idiot. The G56 is solid though. Oh, and Cleetus was bought out by Chevy to talk trash about Cummins and get a free truck in the process. Big youtubers are always shady like that.
If Cleetus was sponsored by Chevy in any way, he HAS to say so in the first 45 seconds of the video. If he gets caught, he does get in trouble. Aaron would know what the penalties are
I'll stand behind Cummins every day of the week. My Gramps has a Dodge ram 3500 atm owned a trucking company and he's always had Dodge with Cummins and for semi trucks he's a Kenworth owner. But we're talking old Kenworth k100 and the old armadillo
Mark M I can't speak to that exactly because I don't own such a truck. Everyone I know with one was smart enough to delete them or buy them already deleted.
I do know the company I work/drive for used to have a 2011ish 3500 or 4500 cab and chassis with something like a 20 or 25 foot dry van style box on the back. We used it to deliever full pallets of auto parts to 6-8 NAPA stores. The issues that arrised were electrical/mainly wiring related and transmissions/clutches. This was a manual transmission 2wd as well.
I don't believe it left our possession until 2015 or so with something like 380,000miles on the clock. Pretty rough running conditions as well. Always driving at night so winters were rough in it. It was a DEF truck but didn't suffer much at all. It was put in the ditch once which resulted in it slightly catching on fire. Lol
Otherwise it lasted pretty well considering what a van body/box, full liftgate and an ali-arc out front weighs. Then figure the nearly 10 full pallets of auto parts every night of the week. We only got away from that to go back to a small Freightliner M2.
No way a GMC, Chevy or Ford would've survived that life back then. MAYBE these days but it's unlikely.
"Oh comon, let go" *BAM*!!!! lol
also my favorite part
"So I carefully removed the fenders."
And at 2:45 carefully detached the mounts......
But still lol
Man..
I'm from Northern California Sacramento area and it blows my mind to see trucks with rust like that...crazy
speed kills I’m from Minnesota. We stupidly salt the hell out of the roads. It costs us billions in mechanical problems, rust, etc
777jones I bet man ,from the looks of the vehicles I see coming out of the Midwest seems like it would be a constant battle to work on older trucks and shit out there
We need guys like you in England helpful explain things
Great idea with the ear plugs!
SteelBearingHand seriously. I have ringing problems and hammering on metal objects is the absolute worst thing. Carry earplugs wherever I go, need to.
If the threads are half decent on the exhaust manifold studs, take two new nuts and tight them together on the stud. Then apply heat and use a socket on the nuts to remove.
I not only love the 12valve. I also love the GTO in the back.
I know this is a old video, but I usually weld a nut to the end of the stud thats seized and it helps heat the stud up and most of the time they come out.
These motors are so easy to work on can't beat it
hey buddy
a little trick for you - heat up then hit with a crayola crayon " capillary action draws wax
[n then bolt will come out sometimes no tools just finger
water works to
1961clyde i
Nope. Projectfarm proved that wrong. Only penetrating oil will work. The wax wont get to the threads.
PBBlaster... hit it several times with PB and let it soak overnight.
Picked up some of those universal impact sockets as well ! They sure are handy , Great Video !
7:17 i use to weld some head valves with the 308l welding rod and it just pops out nicely.
Aint nothing like a good old fashioned cummins building video.
One of the best step by steps I've seen...
That donor truck didn't leak enough to have active rust prevention, truly astonishing!
This kind of video is what I love! Thank you!
Your a Savage rich! Love your videos been watching for months now
I loved the use of the alignment tool to get the 5.9 out of the truck ... :o) ... Classic!
Best tear down in the beginning ever
Fram wrecked a lot of these engines in the early 90s. They upgraded the filters to prevent this.
Nope the cheap orange cans are just as bad as they were back then. I trust Mobil1 for basic filtration. If you want your 5.9 to last forever go with the LF9028 or similar 2 stage full flow and bypass filter.
I have long said I wouldn't buy an engine if it had a fram filter on it, and I've refused to use fram filters when family or a customer brings one for an oil change. Generally speaking I use wix xp filters on my stuff, and my customers stuff. However I have been tempted to try the lf9028 I believe it is on my trucks. Supposedly very good filter, costs around $30 though vs about $10 for the wix xp, big jump up from a $4 fram deal, but with the money I spend on my truck and the money it makes me, I feel like i can afford a few extra bucks to protect it.
trythisiptv I've been using fram filters for almost a decade and haven't seen one engine blow up because of one. My uncles Honda Accord has 240K on fram filters and conventional oil.
Don't get me wrong, I'm just sharing my experiences, I haven't seen a fram filter destroy an engine either, but I have seen them come incredibly close multiple times.
Just a month or two ago a family member brought their car to me for shocks, and it had a little funny sound at idle. Turns out the fram filter was severely restricting oil flow, enough to make a nasty lifter tap at idle but not enough to trigger the idiot light.
The glue at the filter material seam came loose and there was no metal crimped around it like a wix filter has, so the material began coming loose until it began to plug up the oil passages.
Obviously they would be out of business if every filter failed, and many don't, my dad has used fram filters for decades, and only stopped once he saw that filter clog oil passages and my cut apart filters to see the difference.
I know I won't change anyone's opinion, nor am I trying to, but in the same breath, I'm not about to start using fram filters now either.
I know people who have $100 ebay turbos running 30+ psi for years on their cars and trucks. I also know my luck will never support such behavior, Either I'm terribly rough on stuff or just have awful luck but I prefer to avoid the risk of ultra-cheap parts, filters, or anything that will take my expensive engines with them if they fail. No made in china injector nozzles for me.
I go wix filters or I just go home.
Nice Vid Deboss, Keep up the great work!
Like the way all the body parts were excellently catalogued.
That dodge you pulled the engine from was serviceable for at least a few hundred thousand more miles, I mean that fender was only rusted around the wheel well
That’s true, every engine I’ve ever seen at the junk yard and etc, the engines always were locked up. Don’t buy Fram oil filters
Every engine you've seen at junkyard has been locked up? For what, security? Locked in a vault, cage, fence, what?
If you mean they've all been unable to rotate internally, why in the hell were you testing every engine in the junkyard? Why does every engine you've ever seen in a junkyard use a Fram filter? There are cheaper filters on the market. It stands to reason someone would use a cheaper or more expensive filter eventually. Guess they're all still on the road.
Lol no the engines were seized, every single engine that had that orange with black Fran oil filter all had the engines seize up, those Fran filters have cardboard in them and pieces break off and get inside the engine, this I found out later
So loving and gentle..The supermarket music was perfect lmao
dam, that was the best 'rusted bolt' video ever..........thanks!
wazza33racer very important issue in the northern climate / old cars.
Geez, I remember when I replaced the cracked stock iron manifold on my 2001, I can't believe Cummins used to have those awful log turbo manifolds on these engines. The cast steel 3 piece split volute turbo manifold I replaced mine with has been going strong for nearly 7 years now.
It would have been awesome to see some sort of leak patch up and return to service
this guy is a Boss
I "carefully" removed everything, by hacking it....loved it man!
Lock-N-Stitch could take care of that crack in the block. I saw it rescue a bunch of cast blocks/cases on Jay Leno's Garage.
I have had one with a crack there. Used Lock n Stitch to fix it instead of welding. Permanent fix.
Man awesome video im ready for part 2
Do you have personal experience with a piston distorting because it was set on its side? Ive worked with a lot of aluminum pistons and have never once seen something like that.
Just what we were taught in school
DEBOSS GARAGE that's seems really strange to me. Now I've gotta go set some pistons on their sides. Six months from now I'll have no idea why they are there :)
Do R/C! I've done a lot also, I think laying them carefully on a clean surface won't damage them. Some guys are a little ham handed and bang them together or put them down hard and they get scratched, gouged and dented. I've seen knuckleheads ruin perfectly good parts just by not being careful or not giving a f#ck.
Bullshit the piston will not deform because there are multiple points of support CYLINDER LINERS will distort not pistons
Hayden Denard I see the same issue with cylinder liners. The only way the metal would deform is if it were pushed with enough force to enter it's plastic deformation phase and the weight of the liner itself just isn't going to do that. Maybe if you put a bunch of weight on top of it while it's on its side.
Such Gentile Techniques
I like how he says come on just let go then hits it with a hammer
I own a 2003 cummins, has ran like a scalded ape since I bought it, 398k miles and 800 hp later #5 ate an exhaust valve. The head has never been off the truck until then, pulled the head and every cylinder had perfect cross hatching. No idea how as the truck was ran pretty hard. Made a shit load of power and pulled often aswell.
How long have you had the truck? Or how many miles were on it when you bought it?
You disassembled that truck with such care and finesse lol. I’ve had pretty good success welding nuts to the exhaust studs letting them cool some then with great care and finesse put you impact wrench on it lol. Joking aside, I am serious about the impact. You just have to know your gun well and be easy on the trigger and let those “ good vibrations “ go to work. Lol.
WOW! Fantastic Please keep making video's Mate !
You should get an induction heater so can heat bolts whiteout the open flame.
Whiteout? Like heavy snowfall?
Great vid ! Lots of time/labour involved. They're called ear plugs ;)
Appreciate the video man, life in general has been pretty shit lately, and the 2nd gen isn't doing me any favours neither.
Hey you're a Blue Jays fan? Right on man!
Perfect use of a BFH.
Another awesome video! Love the Cummins content!
Can't believe how long those engines run for
Big Truck engines exceed 1 million miles all the time. That Cummins is a Mini-Me version of the big Cummins truck engine.
I like your style on the engine removal :)
That’s how Red Green would pull an engine!
I just redid a 24v with #1 and 6 cracked compression rings in the piston. Being a machinist by trade ive never liked the drill hones. I think the variation goes against what I was taught . Not to say its wrong or doesn't work . I just would rather send the block to a susen hone w/ 280 grit stone. Tell the new owner get a HE351 he will enjoy the updated turbo . It comes stock on a 04-07 ram.
When pulling the crank out it doesn't actually matter where you start removing bolts because let's not forget you have oil clearance say like 2-4thou so your crank is on the top main bearings while the engine is upside down!
When you are using the hammer to "shock" those studs loose you need to apply more power. The light repeated taps arent going to work as well. Give it a few good whacks.
Gas only in my resume', do those piston coolers have a much smaller tip than the opening on the saddle ? Is there a dedicated feed for them somehow ? seems like it would be tough to keep pressure up with 6 open bleeds on the main gallerie like that.
Holy cow Rich's accent comes out a lot stronger on these older vids
I miss my 98 2500, used to take a 3 foot flathead and unlock the door from the hole in the door. But that 24v was loyal.
must have looked funny carrying that big floor jack with you to be able to get that 3 foot flathead in there,LOL.
@@mariomartin1981 truck was lifted lmao and there was lotta rust on that thing
lol..yup.rust opens up some nice holes at the bottom of those doors,mine looked like swiss cheese for a while too.
that engine montage reminded me of trailer park boys
I run a 180 thermostat just to try to get 6 a little cooler good or bad ideal ?
Been looking for a 12 or 24v for my excursion swap I guess the lesson learned here is don't be scared of a high mileage, crusty 5.9. lol. Seen some ugly ones so far. Question on block deck prep, was that a regular steel wire wheel? and I am assuming part 2 shows you going over the head?
I know you work on older motors (5.9's and the lot) but the 6.7 is getting close to 10yrs in some trucks, would you ever do a video about the 6.7 cummins. I would like to hear your thoughts on them in general (maybe a everything wrong with video or if its worth getting one over a 5.9?)
Love the hero scene at 2:43
Good stuff. Happy Motoring.
Spotted that GTO. A '67 I think.A nice resto project.
Full build is here, it turned out great th-cam.com/video/KF_s_ZikTCQ/w-d-xo.html
idk why more people dont get the coolant bypass kit and that way the back cylinder number 6 gets all the flow it needs to keep it cooler so it doesnt take out the rest of the engine.. the kit is cheap enough and fairly easy to install other than knocking out the "frost plug" in the back of the head which can be a little bit of a paint haha
I'm looking for a dipstick tube and dipstick for my 2000 dodge ram 2500 5.9 cummins. Hard to find them, what do you recommend for an alternative to it.
EXCELLENT VIDEO RICH THANKS!
How to Bulid any million mile engine?
First thing, strip every piece of Emission gadget off and throw it in the trash......
Great vid as usual
Oh yeah, how I wish I could stuff a Cummins into my 96 Ford F-150. Now that would be awesome!
In some parts of your day today, Job-Activities it looks like you just having fun.
I noticed you use the forklift to lift the head off on average how much does that weigh??
Head is about 125 lbs
The sledge to release move!!!!!
Would it be possible fixing the crack in the block by brazing it?
My auto shop teacher tried that on a diesel ford tractor, didn't really work but helped. I have seen where people grind out the cracks and fill them in. FYI if you grind a crack weld at each end of it so it doesn't spread when you grind it out
Can you swap a 2005 dodge 1500 four door body to a 1999 dodge diesel 3500 frame ? Will the body fit and what’s parts transfer over if it does? Aloha from hawaii James
Wow!! This is a great video, I have heard that there may be only 3 cam shaft bearings, and if during the rebuild, will you install additional cam bearings? I have older 24 valve engines and would like to install stronger valve springs. What is your take on the number of cam bearings? 🙄
7:09 When DEBOSS drops a mixtape😂
Great video!
Hi am stuck and don't know what to do anymore and would really like some help. I have and 97 12v and it doesn't charge the RPM gauge doesn't work I'm stuck in limp mode I think it's 2nd gear the grid heater doesn't work and I can't ready the codes .I changed the alternator and still nothing i hear the cps can do this but would like your opinion on it thx
heat the bolts then put wax to them, they will screw right out, or weld a nut on then put wax to it, it pulls the wax into the threads
This guy knows how to pull en engine
"Because its a cummings and only has 400 thousand miles" haha love it
Looking to replace my radiator any upgrades like 3 4 core all aluminum, dual fan electric, fleec bypass. Modine brass and copper 4 5 core.
Heat and wax works well for me on cast iron.
The links for the kits ain’t working. Whose nuts extractor are ya using?
i got an 01 2500 with the 5.9, i was trying to find out because it has not the 53 block it has the "3bc 123" but no sure if this the good or not that good block, any help, please!
Usin the wire wheel on the deck gave me flash backs lol used to get threatened with extreme violence by the head mechanic if I even thought about doing it. It was either use a wetstone with diesel or it got surfaced. Also why not flush/clean out the oil gallaries since its completely dissasembled anyway?
Yea! Very Carefully 1
Do you have a video of how to remove the 5.9 cummins from a dodge WITHOUT distroying the truck?
Late, but you couldve used the block stiffener and repair kit on the old engine, by lock n stitch.