Tracking down a unique intermittent crank no start problem on my Silverado
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a very unique problem with an easy solution that can be easily overlooked. The problem is that after this truck sits for a bit, it will crank fine but will not start. The catch is that if you cycle the key, it will start on the second try, every time. Now we could just start the truck twice whenever this happens, or we could find a solution to the problem. If you have a GM truck with a 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0 from 99-07 and you are having this issue, here is the fix.
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#silverado
My fix would be to install a camera in the cabin, since it starts every time when you are filming it. 8-)
🤣👍🏻🇳🇱
As always it works when everyone is looking 😂 Good job on the diagnosis and fix!!
The look on your face as you attempted to demonstrate the issue on the third try was priceless!
Thanks for a great video and learning moment!
That is such a nice truck after you rebuilt and repainted it, it's hard to believe that it hasn't been sold yet.
Website says sold
Thanks. I didn't check.@@agger838
Same struggle with MAF sensors. People call me a stock freak but it’s for a good reason
My 02 HD with the 6.0 had a similar problem….. drove me crazy, I thought it was the aftermarket alarm installed by the PO, tore that all out… but still had the issue. Then I replaced the fuel pump… no fix…. Then replaced the crank position sensor. BOOM! My mechanic said no to the crank sensor but I had a hunch that it was… Never had an issue after. Happy Thanksgiving! Love your channel, I have a lot of respect for your perspective and perfection in fixing cars…a lot like myself…
been dealing with this same issue for very long time from throwing parts on it new fuel pump, new spark pugs wires, new mass air flow sensor, new fuel filter, new injectors, new coils all no help till i found your video and fixed it.i was about to send it to junkyard. but ur video saved my loved truck.
Thanks for riding that struggle bus for us Scott. You're the best in the business.
I had the exact same problem when I had a 2002 a few years ago.
Same truck, same spec. Mine turned out to be a bad fuel pump relay. I opened it up and found corrosion inside from water getting in there. And by the way, thanks to you, I find myself making that “Click” sound when I’m working on my vehicles. 😂
Scotts been working out for sure he looks great
Thank you! This is exactly the symptoms my suburban has been having. Won’t know till I get the oem csps in there but I am pretty confident this is it.
Glad to see that end of an intermittent problem
I’ve learned a lot of things over the past 45 years wrenching, and yes! OEM sensors and modules are the way to go! For example, say Honda spool valves vs Dorman? 100 percent comebacks! $250 vs $70 is well worth the extra $180 buying Honda! Especially when you’re name is on the building, and is your reputation!
Thanks for lesson. OEM for electronic parts is indeed the best way to go
"Dorman" told me everything I needed to know. I swore off that brand for anything other than push pins.
"Luckily I've been here before". At least we know who it was! Great video Scott.
I had the same problem. It drove me crazy. I don’t know why, but every 3-4k miles, as soon as it failed to start, I replaced the distributor cap. I had to use a Delco cap. Every aftermarket cap would only 5-1500 miles. Why you ask? I don’t know, it just fixed it. I’d keep a screwdriver and new cap in the cab at all times.
A mechanic friend of mine always said that 'New' only meant you were the first user. It didn't mean it was any good.
At least you didn't have to remove the intake to change out the cam sensor. That was a +++++
I tried replacing my failed oem cam sensor with a cheap replacement and it didn’t fix the intermittent starting issue. I then threw in an acdelco oem sensor and it fixed it. Great video with great info!
Great info Scott. I've got an 04 Suburban so I'll stick that in my pocket in case I need it. Much appreciated.
Some big ass pockets you got...
At least your a mechanic and had this problem. If I was your customer and brought that truck to you it would have never acted up for you. that's my experience with intermittent issues.
OEM for electrical and electronic parts UNLESS you own a vehicle that's "no longer available" for OEM parts. Then your in the "Aftermarket Jungle" for parts.
Intermittents. The curse of the automotive industry.
Good one Scott.
I was hoping your fix might give me the clue I need to fix a similar problem on a Pontiac 3800, 1989. One difference though, when the 3800 cranks, no start, it doesn't matter how many tries you give it - no start. Cold starts usually, but sometimes after driving. Simply won't start. This is only an occasional situation. It may go for months, no problem. Then one day, no start. And the next day, again no problem. Did the cam position sensor. No fix.
Yep, been there, done that bought, the T shirt. Always OEM.
EXCELLENT video !!! GM OEM all the way what I do as well
This y, after being a gm tech for many years. And now i am old and retired. When ordering parts from RockAuto I only buy ac Delco. Yes they cost more but it worth it. I hate changing the same part over and over and second guessing my repairs. Happy Thanksgiving Scott
Happy Wednesday, Scott and I hope you and your family have a Happy Thanksgiving!🍻
I had a start problem with my Hyundai Elantra GL 2001 from *new* where the selling stealership weren't too interested with my intermittent starting problem so I went to another place and when I said it was 3 days old they said _bring it in immediately_ and then the fun began. It took 18 months and 3 or 4 services before they tracked it down to an Antenna Coil not recognising the key and this was after I wrote what happened with the fault right down to how many seconds each step took. Crank, start and stop at 30 seconds. Wait two minutes for a *click* and I could crank again. I was told the *click* was the immobiliser resetting. Drove me nuts for a year and a half and all I needed to do to get it to crank and start after the first failure was to remove and insert the key.
Nice job Scott 👍👍 and my apologies for the War & Peace size comment. 🤦♂
I have the same intermittent crank, no start on first crank and immediate start on second try on my '06 Honda Accord V6. Replaced an EVAP Purge Valve with OEM Part recently with no luck to solving this problem. That parts canon can get expensive. Thanks for your video.
Great video,and I agree oem for sensors,actuators, electrical stuff everytime, been burned by Dorman too many times , keep up the good work Scott!
2 after market duds. What are the odds. Looks like the odds are pretty high. Happy Thx Gvn to you and yours. Thx for doing this and sharing. 👍👍👍👍👍
I have been thinking lately, or at least finding a justification, if I am already saving labour cost by doing things myself, might as well get OEM parts, this video too just makes me want to push that forward on my next car
Thanks Scott, my 2002 is doing the EXACT same thing.
For certain part like fuel and ignition, I only use OEM. The fuel pump went out on are 2013 Explorer, no way that I was going aftermarket
You are a very nice guy for offering up this tip. Happy TG and Black Friday and Cyber Monday. 👍👍👍
Standard motor products were the cut rate brand of ignition parts suppliers back in the 1960s. Some parts stores started selling the brand because it was cheaper than Neihoff or Delco. Their ignition points weren't any good for high performance applications because they would float at high rpm. Standard has a Blue Streak line that their salesmen would say is higher quality and costs a little more. I always asked why a company would sell products that they know are inferior, especially at such a modest difference in price. It seemed to me that the cost of stocking 2 different versions of each part would eat into profits. It seems like the cheap parts won out because Standard acquired other companies and are one of the few left. NAPA has Echlin which is now a part of Standard Motor parts.
Careful, going to start sounding like James May if you continue on...
Good to know. Have a great thanksgiving!
i have this exact problem on my 02 gmc sierra, buying acdelco part now
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family this holiday season! Keep up your wonderful rebuilds and tech videos.
Goes to show you how bad parts can be nowadays.
Happy Thanksgiving from this Canadian
Happy Thanksgiving Scott.
Haha ... Scott gave his truck a reach around ... that was mighty kind of you. :o)
that is the main ideea I saw at other youtubers doing car diagnostic stuff: always go original on the cam/crank position sensors. anything vital for car to run.
Glad to see the end of an intermittent problem. Good info. Thanks
Thanks for the video Scott.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family
Happy Thanksgiving🦃🦃Scott!
Hello again sir..
Finally you changed it..
Vehcor, I was sweating bullets with you on that start. 😅
also check the ground connection behind the power steering pump!
for my k1500 it was the crank sensor learned that after playing parts cannon my favorite general motors game and i always disconnect battery for 10+ minutes before plugging in new sensors
Even better. I have a 99 Ford f250 7.3 PSD. Intermittent crank no start after driving it. But for mine its just a 7.3 thing.😅 Glad you figured it out easily enough though.
Thanks for the info and Happy Thanksgiving to you and Mr. Spotty.
Nice solid truck
I had a very similar problem with my 2007 NBS Silverado. Would not start or would die going down the highway, but let it sit and it would restart. Dealer thought the fuel pump. I had just replaced the fuel pump so I thought not. Anyway they put a new one in and the next day same problem. Took it back to the dealer and the service writer asked a mechanic to move the pickup and it would not start. Turned out when it was warm it had some thermal expansion in the under hood fuse box. They replaced the whole unit and has been perfect since.
Not many people have watched this video. I live in Australia, so no chance I will ever own one of these trucks, so I just watched the video out of interest. You would think that after market parts would be reliable, which in most cases they are, but not this time. Definitely pays to use the genuine part in this instance.
My guess is that it's not that the part was not right, but that it was a bit out of calibration versus the ECM. Note that two separate sensors did the exact same thing. The genuine part is probably just a bit different in something and works in combination with the rest of the truck. Note that it always worked on the second try. And, it could be the ECM that's a bit out, and it needed whatever different the OEM part brought to the table.
can confirm make of the parts matters -- at least on Chrysler/Mopars.
Standard Ignition is usually a decent brand. They also make a premium line called Blue Streak.
fantastic! ijust developed this perplexing problem. thanks for the fix
Scott, thanks for sharing.
Scanner Danner was having the same issue with his chevy. He tore through all the wiring harness.. finally just threw a new one at it and apparently that's all it needed. Even the OEM is cheaply made; it's just a bad design. I've seen a small layer of rust jacking push these enough to not work anymore. I'm not a fan; because of that I always sand the mounting surface clean and flat- and rub grease all round the hole. It's very particular at having a flat mounting surface. I think it's because the sensor is so long and sticks down inside that any tilt or lean at the base causes it to be exaggerated at the tip of the sensor.
Have a happy thanksgiving
Somebody been there before and fudged it up . Hello buddy !
Thanks for the tip I can always use info on GMT800's. That's disappointing about Standard motor products. Hope they're not going down hill. Happy Thanksgiving!!
Happy Thanksgiving Scott! I’ll bet you’re not having pizza.😂
Thanks for sharing your genius
i do the same face Scott - and then people have to run away coz the air turns Blue
you'd think the car was camera shy, nope, just showing off and proving you wrong, i used to have a similar problem with an old Land Rover in the UK, refused to start, you near give up just as the battery is getting so flat, the engine barely turns, i get out, thrash it with a branch or tree depending on what's closest, swear, of course and jump in again, turn the key and grunt futt futt, splutters into life, nothing wrong with anything, got a good earth etc etc, just didn't like me and cold mornings after a night on the tiles
look at that clean engine !
I have had to place 2 (so far) drivers door window regulators on my friends Chrysler town and country. Yep they were Dormans. Luckily they are guaranteed for life …. And i can do it really fast now that i have the practice in!😆🤔
Being the rollover truck i would say anything near the back of the engine or on the firewall has to changed just incase the motor moved back in a accident
The trouble shooting nightmare. Gotthe same problem with a 2005 5.3 Suburban, Set the key on and wait 10-20 seconds, Hit the starter, it starts every time. Fuel pressure problem.?? .Thanks for the video.
My 2004 Suburban used to do that sometimes.
THX for you content...HTG..NJ
Nice truck!! Looks cherry
Had a 99 did the same thing except for it was every time you went to start it cold knce it ran for the day it was usually fine. Cam sensesor was replaced multiple times with oe sensor 5 years later sold the truck still does it. Personally i believe it is the computer
Thanks
Nice job. 02-06 would really be the same.... 99 would be different, a lot of those had 5.7's.... But I digress...
You could have had 2 bad ones....
I'm in a different industry, this is different, I'm not saying.... I'm just throwing it out there, sometimes there's a lotta bad parts....
I.... Okay, I'm gonna cut this as short as possible, because no one cares. I got 4 bad parts. I began to question my sanity. I swapped the parts into known good machines. Nope. Bad. I took the stolen good ones & threw them in my machine... Works. So, verified, 100%, lock & load, bad parts.... Meanwhile, I'm sending back the bad ones. Now, because I'm a little paranoid (a little) I mark the parts I send back... So as I order more, I'm getting the same bad ones sent to me again.... And they are still bad. Shocker.
And of course, my boss is freaking out, and the people who want this machine are freaking out, when's it gonna be fixed?!?!??!
I do a deep deep deep dive into the manufacturer website, and find a replacement part for a newer machine, but they claim it's backwards compatible for all models going back.... I'm sitting home at night on my own time, on a live chat with a Company Rep, saying "Now if I have this series, this part will work, even on the old one???" He says yes.
At work the next day, obviously "our" system says that part is NOT compatible.... Of course. So I did something a little iffy, and ordered it.... I slam it in, it works.... It works!!!!
This story has a lot more twists & turns, but.... My POINT Sir, is that I got 4 bad parts.... And really, it was only my own insanity, ingenuity, bad behavior, and luck that got me outta that mess.....
There can be a lotta bad parts out there.... And I'm not sure the average parts store droids really care, when they take in a return either......
Anyways, great job.
Everytime you get made to be a liar lmao. But that all in fun this is an issue I have seen and never knew what caused it. It wasn't my vehicle or I would have gotten rid of it lol. Thanks for sharing Scott.
"Theree we goooo" when it's fucking up is hilarious
great info, I have one here where I have to teach the curvature sensor and camshaft sensor as you say. But here in Belgium we do not have an OBD device that
supports this, which one do you recommend? Thanks in advance, great videos, keep it up.
This is a turkey day special!
Always go OEM for all your parts.
I had a similar symptom on an 03 silverado without the trouble code. Turned out to be the Crank shaft position sensor connector. Apparently it was stretched or damaged during a starter swap. I didn't have a scanner at the time to look at the data but it was also a frustrating ordeal and always seemed to happen when I was in a hurry.
Hey Scott!
👋🏻
Well look at that the mech-a-neck was right. The elated face when it happened..😅😂😅😂. Well glad you fixed it...your hired. Have a good Thanksgiving to you and your family. Staybsafe and be well.
Hello there, got me one very similar to this truck, mine is a 2001, great condition, but the dash is just coming aparts, cracks all over the place, yours looks pretty good, did you fix it some how? did you get a new one?
Been loooking for a new one for while but strangly enoufhg they dont make it, there a zillons of this trucks around with the same problem. Could you point me in the right direction, would like to have that fix, not an overlay.
By the way its always a plassure to whacth a master doing his work
My grandpa had a 2005 Yukon Denali, same problem, but he all he did was not care about it and it went away after a while...
Now I know what might have been wrong with it lol
I had an 03 that did the exact same thing ...
I never fixed it because I didnt know how , and it always started on subsequent try's .
I drove it like that for nearly 5 yrs...
Now if this were SMA we would have wave forms... We got da Dorman wave here. We got da Echlin form here. And here is the Delco. Now here is the wave forms at the ECM, and now we got da forms at the sensor. Now here are da forms overlayed with a cylinder contribution form. Now here are all the forms overlayed with a known good form I captured in 1999. LOL.
Have a happy Thanksgiving
When you were narrating your video you warned this senor would come to bite you. I have had the same problems with aftermarket ignition parts on GM cars and trucks I guess they don't all come from the same place.
have you seen the ground wire that goes to the coils break off on the front drive side of the block?? i put a video up on my channel about it. hope it helps you out like your videos have helped me.
The cleaning nome did a great job in that engine bay
I guess your next struggle will be disposing of the _Hater's Tears_ *without* causing a 100 year flood each week. 😁
My 01 4.8 silverado cold starts right up. Also after driving and turning off then back on it starts right up. But if it sits for 3 mins to 2 hours it takes 4 secs or more for it to start.
I just ran into the same exact problem to the tee, we replaced the cam sensor in the process of fixing multiple engine oil leaks. First sensor was a FMP standard ignition part, the second sensor was a carquest brand. both sensors created rhe same problem with no codes. Installed a Genuine GM part and the problem disappeared, the only reason I didnt use the GM part was they werte out of stock that day. Chinese garbage and a lot of hassel.
Did you save camera sensor or cam sensor……….😊
My guess is a grounding issues cold related. Now I can watch the video. Lol
I had an S-10 that would eat ignition control modules (ICM) in the distributor. Same symptom here. But usually when the vehicle was warm or hot.
That is a well known GM issue dating back to the 80's.
I had a 1996 Buick LeSabre that ate thru icm's consistently once a year in May. I was baffled how almost every 2nd week of May - the icm went bad. I thought I was nuts going insane because every single may-;once a year icm went bad. I kind of correlated get we are out of winter and spring warm weather is here then bang- icm bad...