never seen any proper carpenter while i have been working as a chippy for 4 years now. in victoria, unfortunately i didn't really have a good chance to learn proper way. thank you for the video, gives me right way to build a house with professionalism.
Excellent video. I have spent 2 hours looking at annoying videos that gloss over the details, this is the only one that gives all necessary detail and explanations.
I've seen some building sites that suggest not to cut and fold the sarking back in and around the window framing due to possible water movement down the face of the wall membrance then along the sarking attached to the window frame. Do you have any comment or is there a specific benefit in folding in the sarking that outweighs any possible moisture movement down the face as described.
hi james, thanks for your knowledge base.. im installing a gjames louvered aluminium 050 series window into an external bathroom wall. its not in the shower enclosure but right next to the shower curtain.. should i remove the window reveal ? (which is primed pine). different posts say yes, some say waterproof over reveal then tile. On my window i only have a 25 mm aluminium return on the window frame then the pvc handle so the tiles would be very close to the handle. I can understand removing reveal if its mdf or other board. if i remove the reveal ill have more wiggle room for tiles. Thanks for any advice.
What if you have put up the new cladding first and are taking the old windows out for new afterwards, does it matter? How would you get the flashing in?
Thanks for the great video. I have a question about steel frame and windows without a reveal do you screw the flashing just beyond where the window frames will meet the steel frame it is going into a shed home with steel frame and timber frame is only for the wall cladding on the inside appreciate any help thanks
Thanks for the video, great detail! Question: I'm putting some fixed pane windows into a space between two large concrete pillars (300x300). I plan to frame out underneath the windows and above (Sill and Lintel) but I don't have enough space for any studs either side of the window (about 10mm of space only). Would it be fine to use some masonry screws to attach the reveal into the concrete pillars? The windows I'm using are 1200h x 2100w fixed pane Trend windows with 100mm reveals.
@@7yle Yes that would work just make sure you can flash or seal against the concrete. 40*40 aluminum angle on the exterior frame with a polyurethane sealer will help. I'll see if I can find an example for you.
Hey mate, thanks for watching! Yeah I used the stapler on a few other windows in the window episode of 'The Dirt Road Home', probably should have shown it here as well. BTW my wife is Dutch 😁👍
Hi James What window brand/profile have you used for the bathroom and can you use that in the rest of the house if you don't plan to have timber reveals and architraves. Plan to square set the gyprock around the timber and everywhere. Thanks
@@OurBuild I purchased aluminium windows with reveals but they only attached flashing to the bottom of the window. Do I need to remove the staples between the window and the reveal, and place the snakeskin in between or can I attach it to the aluminium frame directly? Thank you 😊
@@stephanekhaida7951 It works well if you place it straight over the aluminium. no need to nail or staple it into the window frame, it can be just nailed on the wall framing beside the windows.
Hi James. Great video! Very helpful. A couple of questions, please: 1. Is the external sarking ever fixed to the studwork, or is it just left loose? 2. I'm planning to remove one of these windows and build in the opening, and am interested in whether the window should be pulled out from the outside or should it be removed from the inside? The external cladding is fibre cement sheeting, and I was hoping to not remove or damage the existing cladding. 3. Are you planning a video on how to remove one of these windows from an existing house?
G'day James , can i ask the frame for the bathroom window, is that built for a very snug fit ? Or with the same gap as the first window ? Complete Beginner here . Thank you
Hi Chris, it can be a little tighter as the outside flanges need to be fixed into the studs. Main thing is to ensure 10mm clearance on the head to allow for deflection in any structural timber above the window. Hope that helps.
It was the point about where the edge of the reveal should sit that of most importance to me. Doing everything on your own affects the method you use. So now I can use that as a standard.
Do you screw down your sill reveal also? Some installers do, some dont and just fix into jams as you have done. What is your reasoning for fixing the sill or not, there doesn't seem to be any clear info on this that I can find ? Also thanks very much for your channel and videos, they are awesome and have helped me out heaps and have enjoyed watching your build. Cheers.
Hey mate, I don't screw or nail the sill, generally the timber reveals will all be pinned back with the architraves to the studs during the fit off stages.
Great explanation thank you. My only objection is you install flashing on top of wall Sarking for top of bathroom window which I suppose it should go underneath of sarking ! Isn’t this right?
Not really because it's high up under a protected eave, and its really a seal between the weather boards and the edge of the window. If it was an exposed wall with a meter or so above it then yes under for added protection from driving rain.
Hey mate, nice video! I have 3 questions. Do you have to specify the thickness of your cladding when you order the windows so they make them to suit? Is the process the same when using colourbond cladding? And I imagine the process for doors is the same but how is the bottom of the door sealed where it meets the concrete slab? Thanks mate.
Hey thanks for the great video. Can I ask if removing aluminium window to replace the reveals, which are warped and cracked is a DIY job or should I call in a professional. I'm mostly concerned with the flashings - brick cladding. Cheers
Thanks George. It would really depend on how confident you are with DIY, generally speaking windows in brick are quite easy to remove. Usually the sill bricks have a flashing that is attached to the bottom of the window, you would need to cut this to remove the window, then it would be a mater of making sure the new window was re flashed at the base when installed.
Hey James I noticed you don’t have any screws in top and bottom reveals I have a 1800 x 600 window so only pack bottom reveal and and extra screws for the length is this correct I see some videos they put screws in bottom and top 🤔
Hey mate I reckon a 600, 1200 and 1800mm are great lengths for windows and doors. You can pick up 2400 or 2700 aluminum straight edges that you can strap a level to for framing if you need longer.
Great vid. Could you use a pair of wooden wedges similar to doing a door jamb or is it better to use those flat plastic packers? I'm guessing it's better with those flat plastic packers. Just thought I'd ask. Cheers for the tips. Keep them coming 👍
I'd recommend creating a 'sub sill' under the new window reveal before you install it. You can use a roll of light weight aluminum flashing which is sold in most hardware stores next to the plastic rolls. Make sure it is wider than the timber reveal so it can fold up behind the archives on the inside and down over the brick work on the outside. For the sides you can silicone and pop rivet a 20mm x 20mm aluminum angle against the window and bricks. Good luck with it 👍
How come you don't tape the flashings? Have seen a lot of vids where the builder goes nuts with taping and waterproofing. Why don't we do that here in Aust?
Would depend on the wrap, and type of window/ exterior finish. Ideally if flashed correctly water would not penetrate to the frame, but if you wanted extra peace of mind then you could flash the sill timber as well.
I just realised why my new window fills up with water when it rains the builder didn’t flash around the windows 🤔 I’ll have to get my new builder to reinstall them……not happy.
That’s great that you explained the difference between a window with and without a timber reveal I’m a first year apprentice and I’m renovating my parents place and have been looking for a video to explain this, thanks
Great video, whats with the everythink? Hate it when ppl say that, just like the Americans saying soder instead of solder hahahha. in saying that ill still watch your videos and give then the thumbs up.
Thank you, your right I didn't mention the head, at the 4 min mark I discuss the frame being 10mm wider around each side of the window, but I should have been more specific at the head as you don't want any beam deflection to impact your window. Thanks for pointing that out 👍
Best teacher I have seen' great explanation. He tells every fine detail that others dont. Well done!
Thanks mate, appreciate the kind words.
never seen any proper carpenter while i have been working as a chippy for 4 years now. in victoria, unfortunately i didn't really have a good chance to learn proper way. thank you for the video, gives me right way to build a house with professionalism.
Thx heaps! Finally a video that's an Aussie builder who shows and explains things really well! Cheers again, phil
@@philandclarepatch6262 Thanks Phil 👍
Absolutely brilliant vid. Installed 3 large double glazed windows based on the content of this. Covers it all. What a legend
best video on the topic on TH-cam. Been searching fer a couple years to finally get all of the details I need.
@@brutismaximus1 Wow, thanks mate, appreciate the feedback 👍
Excellent video. I have spent 2 hours looking at annoying videos that gloss over the details, this is the only one that gives all necessary detail and explanations.
Your welcome 🤙
Yes, same here! Thanks James, I really appreciate this video and your attention to details!
Cheers from Brisbane!
thank you so much for this video, it is the only one i've watched that clearly explains flashing
What an awesome, detailed video!!
not trying to show what a pro he is, but really trying to show how its done.....really impressed!!
Dude, the Australian building industry doesn't deserve teachers like you. 👍👍
Awesome video.
Thanks mate, glad you found it helpful
Really professional, I’ve subscribed
thank you so much for these videos! I'm an apprentice carpenter and this helps so much. keep up the good work!
Cheers mate, good luck with your apprentice journey, great trade to be in 👍
Probably the 10th video I've watched on installing windows and definitely the best. Thanks!
Glad you found it helpful 👍
your videos are constant help with my owner/builder tasks. Appreciate them
That's great to hear! If you have any questions on other tasks feel free to drop me an email and I'd be happy to help answer if I can 👍
very informative - thanks. Have you done video of fixing weatherboard ?
Amazing mate. thanks for this. very professional
What an amazing and thorough video mate. 10/10. That was perfect
I've seen some building sites that suggest not to cut and fold the sarking back in and around the window framing due to possible water movement down the face of the wall membrance then along the sarking attached to the window frame. Do you have any comment or is there a specific benefit in folding in the sarking that outweighs any possible moisture movement down the face as described.
Excellent video, very useful.
Thanks 🤙
Great video,
Question…
If you were doing square set windows would they be installed as they were in the second part of the video in the bathroom?
Correct
hi james, thanks for your knowledge base.. im installing a gjames louvered aluminium 050 series window into an external bathroom wall. its not in the shower enclosure but right next to the shower curtain.. should i remove the window reveal ? (which is primed pine). different posts say yes, some say waterproof over reveal then tile. On my window i only have a 25 mm aluminium return on the window frame then the pvc handle so the tiles would be very close to the handle. I can understand removing reveal if its mdf or other board. if i remove the reveal ill have more wiggle room for tiles. Thanks for any advice.
I didn’t see you sika in the 10mm gap between the sides of the windows, is that not needed?
Good work sir i really want to start my business please show more basic videos in making the window or doors
Great video very informative thanks
Your welcome, glad it helped
Legend -best video out there
Thanks champion
excellent video and clear demonstrations.
Thanks James, your videos are constant help with my owner/builder tasks. Appreciate them.
Your welcome! If you get stuck on anything let me know and I'll see if I can point you in the right direction. Always only an email away 😁
very helpful thanks!
What if you have put up the new cladding first and are taking the old windows out for new afterwards, does it matter? How would you get the flashing in?
Thanks for the great video. I have a question about steel frame and windows without a reveal do you screw the flashing just beyond where the window frames will meet the steel frame it is going into a shed home with steel frame and timber frame is only for the wall cladding on the inside appreciate any help thanks
Thanks. Yes that's the best way to do it. 👍
Thanks for your help I only just found your channel and have been binge watching them great videos
@@tanyiabailey4792 thanks legend
awesome video - nothing left out, thanks for taking the time to make this!
Your welcome Adrian 👍
Excellent info and easy to follow
Such a great channel, can't believe i've only just found it...👍
Thanks James 🤙
I really wish, you do a sliding glass door installation video as well. Best window installation window from down under.
Cheers mate 👍
You explained this beautifully.
Thankyou 🙏
Very helpful video , thank you
Hi James. Have you a video on how to install aluminium windows into brick veneer - without a wooden surround as per your bathroom window here? Cheers
Thanks for the video, great detail!
Question: I'm putting some fixed pane windows into a space between two large concrete pillars (300x300). I plan to frame out underneath the windows and above (Sill and Lintel) but I don't have enough space for any studs either side of the window (about 10mm of space only). Would it be fine to use some masonry screws to attach the reveal into the concrete pillars? The windows I'm using are 1200h x 2100w fixed pane Trend windows with 100mm reveals.
@@7yle Yes that would work just make sure you can flash or seal against the concrete. 40*40 aluminum angle on the exterior frame with a polyurethane sealer will help. I'll see if I can find an example for you.
@@7yle Around the 3 min mark I show and discuss the angles th-cam.com/video/PiBOPinss3k/w-d-xo.htmlsi=eA0S4ZF16sJCL6fR
Thanks! I'll look into those if there's too much of a gap.
Your awesome straight to the point and knowledgeable
Love your work you should be a teacher at TAFE!
Haha, thanks mate ☺
Great Video and good explanation as well. with all the fine details. very nice.
Clear explanation. Very good job. Thank you
Thank you so much for sharing your experience.
Glad to help 👍
Hello James,
Good explanation.
Like it.
Fast and clear directions.
And, isn't it time to buy a stapler?
Greetings from a dutch carpenter.
Hey mate, thanks for watching! Yeah I used the stapler on a few other windows in the window episode of 'The Dirt Road Home', probably should have shown it here as well. BTW my wife is Dutch 😁👍
About to start windows this week. Great visual content, I'm now extremely confident about the flashing requirements and install, cheers!
Best demo ever !!!! Thanks heaps !! 🙂
Bloody hell that was a good instructional video. Left nothing out.
Hi James
What window brand/profile have you used for the bathroom and can you use that in the rest of the house if you don't plan to have timber reveals and architraves. Plan to square set the gyprock around the timber and everywhere. Thanks
You are a champion 🏆
That was brilliant mate thank you 🙏 im about to install a window on my garage and this was super helpful 👊
👍
Best video out here.. Good Job!
Thanks James, glad you found it helpful 👍
Absolutely awesome tutorial!!!
Your communications skills are excellent 👌🏽 👍🏽👍🏽
Thank you very much!
Thanks Stepane 🙏
@@OurBuild I purchased aluminium windows with reveals but they only attached flashing to the bottom of the window.
Do I need to remove the staples between the window and the reveal, and place the snakeskin in between or can I attach it to the aluminium frame directly? Thank you 😊
@@stephanekhaida7951 It works well if you place it straight over the aluminium. no need to nail or staple it into the window frame, it can be just nailed on the wall framing beside the windows.
@@OurBuild thank you very VERY much!! You are so helpful 🙏🏼
Mate super helpful and really well laid out and explained, exactly what I was looking for and answered every question I had. Definite subscribe.
Thankyou 🙏
Very well explained video. So helpful. Thanks
cheers mate very well explained!
Thanks for a great tutorial!
Great video, how do you flash a hardwood window with no fin?
Bloody unreal explanation! Enjoyed it. 👌
th-cam.com/video/fZuDYsOA0xs/w-d-xo.html
Hi James. Great video! Very helpful.
A couple of questions, please:
1. Is the external sarking ever fixed to the studwork, or is it just left loose?
2. I'm planning to remove one of these windows and build in the opening, and am interested in whether the window should be pulled out from the outside or should it be removed from the inside? The external cladding is fibre cement sheeting, and I was hoping to not remove or damage the existing cladding.
3. Are you planning a video on how to remove one of these windows from an existing house?
Nice, I have been waiting for this. Plumb and level you cant beat that. What brand of level are those red levels you use.
Thanks Michael, the levels are Solar 👌
Great video bud, can you link to where I can buy the flashings.
G'day James , can i ask the frame for the bathroom window, is that built for a very snug fit ?
Or with the same gap as the first window ?
Complete Beginner here .
Thank you
Hi Chris, it can be a little tighter as the outside flanges need to be fixed into the studs. Main thing is to ensure 10mm clearance on the head to allow for deflection in any structural timber above the window. Hope that helps.
Sorry 'head' as in the top of the window frame and the timber house frame.
@@OurBuild Thank-you James.
Much appreciated.
fantastic, where can i buy aluminum window like this
Chrystal clear, thanks for the explanation.
Your welcome Greg, good luck with it.
It was the point about where the edge of the reveal should sit that of most importance to me. Doing everything on your own affects the method you use. So now I can use that as a standard.
Well, I guess I was misled thinking that you would be installing aluminum flashing with the windows. Good video overall though. Thank you. : )
Do you screw down your sill reveal also? Some installers do, some dont and just fix into jams as you have done. What is your reasoning for fixing the sill or not, there doesn't seem to be any clear info on this that I can find ?
Also thanks very much for your channel and videos, they are awesome and have helped me out heaps and have enjoyed watching your build. Cheers.
Hey mate, I don't screw or nail the sill, generally the timber reveals will all be pinned back with the architraves to the studs during the fit off stages.
Great explanation thank you. My only objection is you install flashing on top of wall Sarking for top of bathroom window which I suppose it should go underneath of sarking ! Isn’t this right?
Not really because it's high up under a protected eave, and its really a seal between the weather boards and the edge of the window. If it was an exposed wall with a meter or so above it then yes under for added protection from driving rain.
Hey mate, nice video! I have 3 questions. Do you have to specify the thickness of your cladding when you order the windows so they make them to suit?
Is the process the same when using colourbond cladding?
And I imagine the process for doors is the same but how is the bottom of the door sealed where it meets the concrete slab?
Thanks mate.
Hey thanks for the great video. Can I ask if removing aluminium window to replace the reveals, which are warped and cracked is a DIY job or should I call in a professional. I'm mostly concerned with the flashings - brick cladding. Cheers
Thanks George. It would really depend on how confident you are with DIY, generally speaking windows in brick are quite easy to remove. Usually the sill bricks have a flashing that is attached to the bottom of the window, you would need to cut this to remove the window, then it would be a mater of making sure the new window was re flashed at the base when installed.
Hey mate on the window installation do you pack the bottom reveal cheers
Yep, that's the first thing to do
Hey James I noticed you don’t have any screws in top and bottom reveals I have a 1800 x 600 window so only pack bottom
reveal and and extra screws for the length is this correct I see some videos they put screws in bottom and top 🤔
I recently replaced my window and reveals .. there was no existing flashing... i didnt install one either.. do i need to re do it with flashing
100mm strip of building wrap in each corner off the window
better to knock the sill plate up and slip packers in on top of the stud then tap back down
Good job.i have a 10 years experience this job.
Very good explanation! I was warring with the windows flashing installation, but now, I have ideas to do it.
Random question James; looking at buying a set of decent levels. What sizes do you recommend? Was looking at 3 different lengths for owner builder.
Hey mate I reckon a 600, 1200 and 1800mm are great lengths for windows and doors. You can pick up 2400 or 2700 aluminum straight edges that you can strap a level to for framing if you need longer.
@@OurBuild thanks James 🙂👍
Great vid. Could you use a pair of wooden wedges similar to doing a door jamb or is it better to use those flat plastic packers? I'm guessing it's better with those flat plastic packers. Just thought I'd ask. Cheers for the tips. Keep them coming 👍
Hey mate, yeah timber wedges will work fine, although they can get a little fiddly.
@@OurBuild thanks mate...just realised why you're using those plastic wedges lol. They're flat. Thanks for your reply.
I’d love to know how to install a window that has reveals but hasn’t got the flashing. Replacing an old with with a new window on a brick veneer home
I'd recommend creating a 'sub sill' under the new window reveal before you install it. You can use a roll of light weight aluminum flashing which is sold in most hardware stores next to the plastic rolls. Make sure it is wider than the timber reveal so it can fold up behind the archives on the inside and down over the brick work on the outside. For the sides you can silicone and pop rivet a 20mm x 20mm aluminum angle against the window and bricks.
Good luck with it 👍
Hey, Can anyone please explain me what is the purpose of flashing there?
The music was distracting but otherwise this was great and very helpful.
How come you don't tape the flashings? Have seen a lot of vids where the builder goes nuts with taping and waterproofing. Why don't we do that here in Aust?
Would depend on the wrap, and type of window/ exterior finish. Ideally if flashed correctly water would not penetrate to the frame, but if you wanted extra peace of mind then you could flash the sill timber as well.
Outstanding thanks
Your welcome 👍
Cheers mate
Nice, but it looks like a window, that you can not either open, nor kipp. Windows in Europe seem to be a totally different standard.
Great job
I just realised why my new window fills up with water when it rains the builder didn’t flash around the windows 🤔 I’ll have to get my new builder to reinstall them……not happy.
That’s great that you explained the difference between a window with and without a timber reveal
I’m a first year apprentice and I’m renovating my parents place and have been looking for a video to explain this, thanks
Great to hear Linden, hope the Reno goes well
thanks mate,,,,
Great video, whats with the everythink? Hate it when ppl say that, just like the Americans saying soder instead of solder hahahha. in saying that ill still watch your videos and give then the thumbs up.
Haha, cheers mate 👍
Good
Hello sir can I ask you pls
Hiiii
Sir I'm also sliding window works
Good Demonstration, though should mention that the gap between the lintel and top of the window must be at least 15mm.
Thank you, your right I didn't mention the head, at the 4 min mark I discuss the frame being 10mm wider around each side of the window, but I should have been more specific at the head as you don't want any beam deflection to impact your window. Thanks for pointing that out 👍
i do love the sound of a australian magpie
Me too 😁👍
No need for sticky flashing tape around the frame to hold the cut wrap down?
th-cam.com/video/fZuDYsOA0xs/w-d-xo.html
great！
Im alumnium worker india kerala
Nice mate, do you enjoy it?
@@OurBuild thank u
Hi
👍👍🇹🇷
No priming your cuts? Lol