Thanks for sharing your journey. And taking the time to explain. I've learned things from your videos that i didn't get taught in my apprenticeship. Top job!
Hey mate reaallllyyy loving these videos. Two basic questions for ya (from a DIYer trying to learn)..do you install a trim piece to cover the join on the eaves or no need? Or silicon the joint perhaps? And second one is do the eaves need ventilation? My 1960’s house has it being the reason I’m wondering
Great video mate, but just asking what you use to join the Fibro sheets on that gable end (@2:20 ish) do you need to install that plastic gear that assists with two separate sheets together ( like tounge and groove) plastic strip? Or do you just silicone or use a filler to seal those joints up for the painters? As I'm seeing it, would it be better to use some sort of sealant as those sheets of eave sheeting would be square edged and butting up with each sheet at that Gable end? What should I use or do?
Apologies, one other question regarding that framing for your eave sheets, with that piece of timber ( the full length batten) that runs form the facia/guttering...what sized nails do you use to fix it to the top plate area?
Looks sweet mate. It would be a pleasure for the painter to follow u blokes. How did you do the top of the gable over the roller doors. Off 6ft steps on the scaff planks? Also did you sika around the windows or leave it to the painter.
Cheers Michael 👍 We managed to double the scaff up to reach the top. Yes we installed the silicone around the windows, I wanted to do that so the painter didnt just use no more gaps 😁
@raymondzhao8373 no you can't use screws, the eaves lining is only 4mm thick and the screws will pull through, plus you would then need to patch over the screws, the small clouts will hold the eaves lining in place and when painted over can't be seen.
Mate, do yourself a favour stop using a combo square and pencil and get some cladmates, these will ensure the spacings are exact around the entire house, as well you can work with long boards on your own, initial cost around $200 plus you can install the boards perfectly spaced in half the time, so if you pay for the boys for a days work, you can finish the cladding quicker and get them onto other jobs
@@danozdirect3749 No we actually packed every stud with a strip the same thickness as the ply sheet after we took out any big bows with the plane. It's a bit of a pain and I know a lot of people that dont worry about packing the studs out, but it's entirely up to you.
Great job keep posting, great product to use for cladding, is a product called clad, mate.
Thanks Mark
Thanks for sharing your journey. And taking the time to explain. I've learned things from your videos that i didn't get taught in my apprenticeship. Top job!
Hey Kyle, thanks for the kind works, glad you found the video helpful 🤙
i guess Im quite randomly asking but does anyone know a good website to stream new series online?
@Blake Brycen lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google :)
Brilliant mate. An Aussie tradie taking the time to share his knowledge. Keep it up 👍
Thanks Roger, cheers for watching 👍
This is an amazing video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I wish you the best.
Beautiful looking home.
Huge episode - it's really coming together now!
Thanks Guys, and a huge painting job ahead of me as well 😁
top work, you make it look so easy when we all know it isn't!
Thanks Cameron, seams easy when you have been doing it as long as I have 😂. Thanks for watching mate 👍
@@OurBuild is this a customers home or your home (I’m new to this channel sorry)
@@benjamin-rn5zn Hey Benjamin, this is our place. We purchased the land a few years ago and are now getting close to completion 👍
Hey mate reaallllyyy loving these videos. Two basic questions for ya (from a DIYer trying to learn)..do you install a trim piece to cover the join on the eaves or no need? Or silicon the joint perhaps? And second one is do the eaves need ventilation? My 1960’s house has it being the reason I’m wondering
Hey mate, thanks for watching. Yes a timber trim usually 19mm x 19mm goes against the wall eave junction. No need for eave vents these days.
Good on ya guys, everything is seamless mate
Cheers mate 👍
Love the home made scaffolding fall rest for the gable ends (not being a smart arse) but it works. 👍
Great video mate, but just asking what you use to join the Fibro sheets on that gable end (@2:20 ish) do you need to install that plastic gear that assists with two separate sheets together ( like tounge and groove) plastic strip? Or do you just silicone or use a filler to seal those joints up for the painters? As I'm seeing it, would it be better to use some sort of sealant as those sheets of eave sheeting would be square edged and butting up with each sheet at that Gable end? What should I use or do?
These look like james hardie scyon boards? How do you plan the job around the tongue and groove so you don't waste too much of the cladding material
Apologies, one other question regarding that framing for your eave sheets, with that piece of timber ( the full length batten) that runs form the facia/guttering...what sized nails do you use to fix it to the top plate area?
hi, what is the best way to make a circle for down light and a square for exhauted fan ducting under eave ????
Hi nice work. Did you run a trim piece from top of weatherboard to eaves?
Easy a few months to cladding and silicon! Hourly rate or price?
Looks sweet mate. It would be a pleasure for the painter to follow u blokes. How did you do the top of the gable over the roller doors. Off 6ft steps on the scaff planks? Also did you sika around the windows or leave it to the painter.
Cheers Michael 👍 We managed to double the scaff up to reach the top. Yes we installed the silicone around the windows, I wanted to do that so the painter didnt just use no more gaps 😁
great job, love your video. just wonder can i use screw rather than nails for holding the eave sheets?
@raymondzhao8373 no you can't use screws, the eaves lining is only 4mm thick and the screws will pull through, plus you would then need to patch over the screws, the small clouts will hold the eaves lining in place and when painted over can't be seen.
G'day mate, another random question: What sized nails are you using for those droppers and horizontal pieces for the Eave sheet to fix onto?
Mate, do yourself a favour stop using a combo square and pencil and get some cladmates, these will ensure the spacings are exact around the entire house, as well you can work with long boards on your own, initial cost around $200 plus you can install the boards perfectly spaced in half the time, so if you pay for the boys for a days work, you can finish the cladding quicker and get them onto other jobs
Love the vids mate
Did you straighten the external walls before installing weatherboards
Cheers mate 👊 Yeah gave them a zip here and there with the plane 👍
@@OurBuild
Did you blend it out after the ply bracing
Just asking because I'm starting my weatherboards tomorrow
Thanks for the reply mate
@@danozdirect3749 No we actually packed every stud with a strip the same thickness as the ply sheet after we took out any big bows with the plane. It's a bit of a pain and I know a lot of people that dont worry about packing the studs out, but it's entirely up to you.
Another; what are those braces your mate is using on his tool belt?
Noice