MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS: KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench: amzn.to/35fchvN OTC Slide-Hammer Kit: amzn.to/3p7mq4Q Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last: amzn.to/2VsxTgH SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price: amzn.to/2VegmbE Regular Safety Glasses that I Use: amzn.to/2ATXtEf Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
Hello you can heat up thouse turn buckles red hot drop them in a pail of cold water and they will turn no problem. The rust will turn to dust. Have a great day.
I bought a pair of Kubota turnbuckles from Tractor Supply when I converted my AC WD to 3-point. If doing it again, I'd just get strap steel, two per side, drill adjustment holes in the straps (mostly for plow tip adjustment if plowing with this tractor otherwise just a single set) and use bolts with nylon lock nuts and washers -- in fabric-cobble style! That 'bow hitch' lower piece is the common AC setup available. There is another with integral sway-stops that bolts to the old draw-bar. Both hitches enable the 'traction booster' system for ground-type implements like plows, but both hitches new can be expensive (as much as a whole 'new' used tractor in average to poor shape). Another method is using the L-bracket that holds the original draw-bar under the differential housing by running bolts through unused holes, grab an old Ford 8n set of lower arms and bolt the one end to the L-brackets, drill holes for the turn-buckle/straps in the lower arms, sway chains, and you need to put a stop clamp on the hydraulic lift 'quadrant lever' so you don't go too high and slap stuff, however, this doesn't give you the traction booster feature for plowing. -- but it's a cheap 3-point and you keep the regular draw-bar.
Drop your old parts in a barrel of your used motor oil from a wire so you don't have to fish em out . Amazing how old oil can creep into the stuck threads to break the bond .. Oh used transmission fluid is probably better an diesel , but diesel is stupid priced to waste . Maybe that works for me cause I usually forget about em for a few weeks , when I finally remember em they come loose easy most times .
MORE: For those who like the things which TH-cam doesnt, join us on a free mobile app called Telegram, under "Tractor Hoarders Group Chat", in case we get cancelled on here! Also, check out our Patreon page to help support the channel: www.patreon.com/OWFA?fan_landing=true
SOME OF MY FAVORITE TOOLS:
KNIPEX German Made Pliers-Wrench:
amzn.to/35fchvN
OTC Slide-Hammer Kit:
amzn.to/3p7mq4Q
Carbide Burrs - An Affordable Set That’ll Last:
amzn.to/2VsxTgH
SUNGLASSES I WEAR - Quality at twice the price:
amzn.to/2VegmbE
Regular Safety Glasses that I Use:
amzn.to/2ATXtEf
Yes, these are affiliate links. Thanks for watching!!
I wish I had half of the energy you have to make these stuff
Howdy, Brother! Keep up the good fight! God Bless!
I wish I could work in super-fast motion like you Chucke:)
Excellent
Is there a part 2?
Hello you can heat up thouse turn buckles red hot drop them in a pail of cold water and they will turn no problem. The rust will turn to dust. Have a great day.
I bought a pair of Kubota turnbuckles from Tractor Supply when I converted my AC WD to 3-point. If doing it again, I'd just get strap steel, two per side, drill adjustment holes in the straps (mostly for plow tip adjustment if plowing with this tractor otherwise just a single set) and use bolts with nylon lock nuts and washers -- in fabric-cobble style! That 'bow hitch' lower piece is the common AC setup available. There is another with integral sway-stops that bolts to the old draw-bar. Both hitches enable the 'traction booster' system for ground-type implements like plows, but both hitches new can be expensive (as much as a whole 'new' used tractor in average to poor shape). Another method is using the L-bracket that holds the original draw-bar under the differential housing by running bolts through unused holes, grab an old Ford 8n set of lower arms and bolt the one end to the L-brackets, drill holes for the turn-buckle/straps in the lower arms, sway chains, and you need to put a stop clamp on the hydraulic lift 'quadrant lever' so you don't go too high and slap stuff, however, this doesn't give you the traction booster feature for plowing. -- but it's a cheap 3-point and you keep the regular draw-bar.
What all is on your patreon?
When in doubt, break out the hot wrench to get the stubborn bolt out.
Drop your old parts in a barrel of your used motor oil from a wire so you don't have to fish em out . Amazing how old oil can creep into the stuck threads to break the bond .. Oh used transmission fluid is probably better an diesel , but diesel is stupid priced to waste . Maybe that works for me cause I usually forget about em for a few weeks , when I finally remember em they come loose easy most times .