Seriously I'm so grateful for the channels I enjoy that choose to produce in a language that I understand. I was thinking about that while watching Laura Kampf's channel recently.
I fully agree on coolant going rancid. We had a constant problem with that on Blanchard grinder. The note about the height of the head on SHCS. The same applies to SAE SHCS. I forget what the rule is for Low Head Cap Screws. We always "buried" the heads a slight amount. If you have to disassemble something with SHCS's where the heads are full of dirt, debris etc. A drill the same size as the Allen or Hex key solves the problem easily.
Disassembling a Deckel was one of the most inspiring mechanical experiences of my life. The quality of materials alone was amazing. Such a well thought out design. I'm a bit jealous that you are located in the heart of Deckel territory. It's a chore for me in the San Francisco area. Cheers.
Infinite adjustability of this machine is astounding ! * Yes , I have a horrible case of 'Deckel Envy 😆 - - - ( And I'm fairly certain that I'm not the only one ) Thanks for taking the time to show us your 'new' / old machine . . . You make the machinery world a much better place ! ! ! PROST ! " Mögest du 100 Jahre leben! "
I am glad that you got it in such a good condition! I just traded my ancient and clapped out soviet FP1 clone for a nice 1st generation Deckel FP4 with the universal table and an additional fine boring head, the quality is superb, all the handwheels move easier than on my old machine even though this machine weighs over 2.7 tons compared to the soviet knockoff's 700kg. Overkill, yes, but I couldn't say no to the unusually low price.
I really like your new Deckel. I make tiny complicated parts for science experiments and I’m constantly fighting a conventional 3 axis mill to get good setups. I totally agree it is very nice to be able to sit down at the machine for close work. I recently had to drill eighty 0.3mm holes at an angle in basically a strand of dry spaghetti and it was torture in my Prototrak. Now I’m looking for a Deckel.
Some people find it a sacrilege to drill into a machine, but i figure that as long as you improve it from its original state, it's perfectly ok. Like even drilling holes to give yourself access to bigger work, overhanging the table. Done properly, perfectly acceptable, since not all machines have T rails on the side.
One of your best videos yet ! So much good info. The rotary table idea doubling your y axis distance . The all thread through the index head to lift . Mounting the three jaw chuck with through hole screws from the front makes a lot of sense after watching this video. If you come up with a way to add a sensitive down feed quill to the precise high speed head you get the prize! This was really better than going to the theater . thanks
Thanks for showing your machines, I have almost a year with my fp1 and automatic I fall in love for the versatility, the machin I bought its almost new never in a production environment, it was from Siemens for training students for less than a year and then it was sell it came to my country Mexico and get stored for years now I have started my quest for getting the accessories it came with the dividing head and the horizontal head but with no arbor an all the collets, the one I need most it's the slotting head I have been searching online but the ones I have found don't want to send to my country.
The position of the Y-axis clamping lever is something that I found out to seem totally awkward on first though, but feels super natural when working with the machine. Such a nice little machine!
Wieder alles gut erklärt! Ich freue mich mit Dir, daß Deine Werkstatt immer besser wird! Was mir ausgesprochen gut gefällt, das ist die Ordnung und Sauberkeit! Wer seine Werkstatt so ordentlich hält, der leistet auch entsprechende Arbeit! Ich glaube, Deine Kunden werden mit Dir sehr zufrieden sein. Beste Grüße, viel Erfolg und viel Freude bei der Arbeit! 👍👍👍😎
Great video Stefan. That nice little Deckel does everything except make Espresso and is infinitely adaptable. If you like the crane now wait until you get to my age when it becomes mandatory.
Ugh, my old MAHO mill also has a coolant reservoir in the bottom of the casting. I've had the thing for over 2 years and I still havent built up the courage to clean it out. I just use cutting oil and wipe down the machine after use. I am going to steal the barn door rail idea! So much more convenient than the small swing arm crane I have now.
To stop dirt migrating through damaged spots, is use epoxy to fill the divots up. I had a stray steel filing tearing up a way because a rust divot once.
Hi Stefan, I love your videos. I can’t help myself by suggesting to turn the exposure on your camera down a teensy tiny bit. Most clips are overexposed and blow the details of the whites out. Love you so much xoxo sry for the unsolicited advice
Nice work, nice machine! Another way to get to higher speeds is using a SK40 multiplicator which can be held in the vertical head directly. I use a Henninger 6x which gives me a 12.000 rpm max output for the Deckel FP2. For me high enough for most of the work I do but maybe not high enough for your work. It swaps instantly by only changing the tool for the multiplier. And of course you need a small reaction arm on the housing which connects to the machine somewhere. Maybe a tip. All the best, Job
Interesting to see you use a copper punch. In the USA we would use a brass punch. Also those nuts are sold by McMaster I’ve used them on a couple projects
Stephan, Thank you for taking us along for the ride. Many good lessons and so happy you’ve gotten a lot of good news on the condition of you tool and accessories. Cheers, Will
I have to add to your tapered gib comment, that I found the crappy movement and slipping of the travel in the Z on my RF45 clone was because the taper on the gibb did not match the taper in the casting. Had to scrape it in but works much better now. I feel a straight gibb would be a much easier fix. Nice detailed video as allways :)
Briljantly maintained Deckel mill , lets me think of an restaured , pebble beach winning Classic Car.👌👌 Well done ☆☆☆☆☆ Grtzz from the Netherlands Johny geerts
Thank you yet again for another fantastic video. Always great to see how quality machinery is made, and very instructive in that respect - I am currently upgrading a horrible machine that has terrible flat gibs and I am collecting different ideas on how to improve them. Also, really like the way the DTI mount that you made is wearing - looks to have witnessed many many hours of use. Thank you!
Slotting heads are really neat, as a sort of engineering exercise / way to cut prime number helical gears my Uncle mounted a Bridgeport slotting head horizontally on the Z of his VMC, now he can cut any tooth gear with a simple shop made single point tool with a very clean involute profile generation using his 4th axis. fantastic for bizaro pitch / tooth counts in phenolic or plastic, bit of a stretch in steel unless you baby it since rigidity is not great and you are looking to go the distance on a single cutting edge.
Hi Stefan, thanks so much for this video. I wanted to make a slotting head for my maho, and your meticulous description of yours has really helped! Cheers 🙂
Now the Definition of a "Super-Amateuer" is very clear. Since my Set-Screws are not painted over, I consider my self only as a simple plain Amateur... Well done Big-S!
Hi Stefan, Fantastic video, I worked in aerospace years ago and was very lucky to get a Thiel-Duplex-158 milling machine. I also have lots of accessories like the item you show in your video. You have the fixed table, on my 158 I have the adjustable or tilting table, not as steady as your fixed one but still very handy now and then. Anyway just to say what great machines. Regards Dave.
good video stefan, but another reason to leave the vertical table clear, on Shaublin, Boley and Lorch watchmakers mills they use a dovetail & gib style of mounting, aka not using the t-slots, this mounts on the outside, and the 'gib'/ clamping element are situated on the rear of this table surface, aka the clamp squeezes against the vertical table to clamp, NOT in the Z direction, but the Y axis.
The painted screw heads reminded me of the old machine tool merchant joke : " Comprehensive restoration ..........................We even painted the swarf !"
Deckel FP1 -The Movie😄 Conventional wisdom is, shorter is better when it comes to TH-cam. Delighted to see the unconventional here. Good work Stefan. Appreciate your attention to detail.
at 1:17:59 this is what I would have suggested, as it is just adding a "lifting bar", also, like some 'jigs' used in aircraft jet engine assembly you could add a horazontal bar, to adjust the heads' center of gravity, allowing you to balance the assembly, and allow for multiple heads, ie, to adapt this to the many table options, with a tube adaptor flange,etc.
An amateur is not someone who messes things up. An amateur is someone who loves what he is doing. Only in sports is the word used correctly. As opposed to the professional the amateur does not get paid. It is probably the professionals who has made that word into a pejorative., as a reflection of themselves.
Stefan, this 'Galling of the way' at 38:03 is prevented by the BRASS gib, this is designed that way, a 'sacraficial lamb' in other words, it gives it's life to save wear on the more expensive dovetail castings, so prolinging their lives.
Good call on the crane! I think that 'handle' for the rotary head is for a lifting strap, btw. Thanks for the very interesting tear-down. That machine looks terrific and i'm eager to see you enjoying it in action. For wriggling the shaper back together, a small flat wrench (the kind that appear to have been stamped out of thick sheet metal) might be useful for tweaking the T-bolts. (Plus another hand to hold it with, of course.)
People freak out when suggest cutting into a casting. Once on a job, we were being trained on backup generator maintenance. The Diesel engine had an oversized oil filter that was positioned in such a way that it was hitting an unused boss on the engine block when it was all the way unscrewed. After about 30 min of 15 guys standing around being paid overtime and multiple different guys trying to put the filter back on, I suggested that we just cut the boss down 1/4". Everyone acted liked I suggested we murder a puppy. They finally dented in the filter enough to get it on.
10:34 an oil-water separator from a truck is a good option. I have a bigger one, that's meant to go on a marine engine (a friend had a surplus, so no clue what the real price would be) but for a small machine like this, an off the shelf one would probably work quite well to output the oil and coolant separately. Dunno, unsure if the small ones work as well as the big ones.
Not sure what type of wood you used for the 'Dolly', but I have seen issues with some wood types that contain natural resin or have anti rotting additives, where the wood initiated corrosion on equipment where they contact metal. Maybe consider lining any exposed wood contact surfaces of the Dolly with an inert (thin) material that won't cause issues.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe even a thin no-metallic shim like HDPE? Although I can’t really believe I’m qualified to give any advice to Stefan the Master Machinist who is always thinking well above my pay grade. 🙏
@@joell439 HDPE sounds like a good choice, I know Stefan reads the comments, he's maybe already aware that the wood he used is safe with the exposed metallic faces of the slotting head, then all is good :)
One note on Eye Bolts. They are not meant to be used at 90° to the direction of lift. They are meant to be used so the lifting forces are on the centerline of the threads
If I can get to the point where you find it barely acceptable would be as good as I can get it ! You might not make it perfect but your pretty dam close to it ! I'm not a sickofant or a Suk up I think your as precise as TH-cam machining gose your one of the best . Thanx
Ich denke, man hat die Bolzen in der T-Nut in Kombination mit Hohlmuttern von außen gewählt, weil das Ausrichten noch komplizierter wäre, wenn man die Muttern in der Nut hätte und diese mit den Bohrungen in Übereinstimmung bringen müsste. Wenn die Bolzen mal grob in den richtigen Löchern sitzen, können sie sich beim evtl. nötigen weiteren hin- und herdrehen des Kopfes mitbewegen.
I was lucky enough to be given a 24 Volt battery operated hospital lift rated at 180 kgs. And a set of aluminium rails I could fit into a traversing crane. Completely overkill, but free. And I have an FP2, which has heavier accessories..
Many of the countries in Europe had clones or variants of Deckel. Some clones have interchangable parts and attachments with Deckel. Interesting part is their similarity and commonality of use. And they are still in use everywhere. Be careful when spining tools in left rotation, if your feed is engaged, feed stops will not work and shear pin for feed will snap if it hits end of travel.
I wonder if putting a slightly energized (maybe 6 volts) or even non energized copper/silver electrode, like the ones used in solar floating pool sanitizers, into the bottom of the tank in the base of the FP1 would keep bacterial and algae growth out of the oil/coolant mixture? Maybe a small amount of chlorine added to the coolant water mixture as well? The aquarium bubbler sounds interesting. Another option would be to place a water proof UV light bar in the tank? Or add an ozone source to the bubbler? Ozone might attack the coolant or oil too aggressively. Perhaps setting up an electrolytic circuit with the copper silver bar as mentioned above would also be a bad idea, but I think it would act as the sacrificial anode and keep the cast iron from rusting. One could paint the expose iron or the tank, or somehow line it with paint or a layer of epoxy or urethane. Anyway, just some ideas that popped into my head. They are probably all dumb ideas but…
I didn't know that you could use Ticonderoga pencils for tightening cap screws, torque limited and comes with an eraser. I think the trough bolts upstairs came out under the piano, nobody will notice. The machine must be happier than a three legged rescue dog, to be adopted by Stefan.
FWIW my machines use flood coolant, have a tramp-oil problem and sometimes don't get used for weeks on end, and I have never had coolant go "bad" on me. The stuff in the mill (possibly 5 years old, only ever been topped up) is a bit watery looking at first after a week or more rest, and needs an hour or so circulating through the job to look like coolant again. But I think you are over-estimating the extent of the problem.
Great idea, to make the chuck mounted from the front. Time 52:10.... "Usually You can drill through....". As I had to take the brand new chuck apart for cleaning the interior from chips, dirt etc I know how it's done. Taking the chuck apart, at least open the bottom seal, would be a good way to check if the drill through will improve or destroy the chuck. Time 59:30. True, both back mounting using M8 and front mounting using M6. Using M6 front mounting there is a significant distance from the cap screw head down to the receiving M6 hole. Using the M8 back mounting the corresponding distance is a lot shorter. No backlash from this in the respect of arm, force, torque? First thought was drilling an 8 mm hole the hole way and use long M8 screws and front mounting. The mini lathe is rather fiddly with its washers and M8 nuts... Just wondering if the 4 jaw Independent could be converted to M8 front mounting.... That would make chuck changes much easier and faster. Interesting..... Time 01:02:08, drilling in the rotating table... As I haven't taking it apart yet I don't dare to drill, but it is interesting to mount the 5" 3 jaw directly, without the adapter plate. Investigation launched..
When you use 3-phase phase-switching to switch the rotation when tapping, is it just a simple switch and you flip from forward to reverse direction directly. Or do you let the spindle stop, then reverse? I assume it goes on-off-on or I imagine it would be hard on the gears. I believe the feeds only work in one direction too.
Perhaps you could fill in the gaps in the slides with soft (lead-based, non-silver) solder? It wouldn't bear any load but it would at least keep foreign material from getting stuck in the gaps.
Great video. Looking at the chain setup you have made me think back to my tower work days. You might get better service out of a small block & tackle rope pulley system. You'd be able to pull from a more convenient place and with a more fine feel for the items you're moving, as well as finer positioning control. Just a thought! Keep up the amazing work, always a pleasure.
The nice thing with a chain fall is that it locks when you let go of the chain. Self locking, I think with a rope and pulley you have to tie off the rope.
For those who are contemplating putting a switch or contactor downstream of a vfd I can tell you that what he is saying about burning / exploding is entirely true. I tried putting a step up transformer from 220 to 550 after a vfd and then running to a starter contactor. You know when a bomb goes off beside Wile E Coyote (millennials will have to google it) and in the next scene he is all charred and smouldering? It was kinda like that.
Non machinist question here. Could those defects in the rails be filled with a soft low melting point metal, just to hold the oil better and maybe keep the dirt out also?
" This thing is Made Out of a lot of Gravity " , my laugh for the day . Thanks for the video .
Hi Stefan. Another good reason for a crane, especially on overhead rails, is that we all get older!
Always amazed by your talent, as well as being able to translate into English for us Americans.
...And our UK and Canadian and Singapore and Taiwan and most of India friends.
Seriously I'm so grateful for the channels I enjoy that choose to produce in a language that I understand. I was thinking about that while watching Laura Kampf's channel recently.
True that , not forgetting his remarkeble machining skiles.
Ability to shoot long video's of high quality xxx
I learned Precisian Mechanik 45 years ago, make my master craftsman 5 years later. Now not to long before retirement i hope to get my own FP1
What is a FP1?
I did enjoy your short essay on perfection. For a lover of precision, the acceptance you expressed is a form of enlightenment ;)
People are very cavalier about saying perfect, exact, no play etc. Good to hear someone put emphasis on reality.
That looks REALLY really good on the inside. Really shows how quality machines should be. I wish my machines looked like that.
Thanks, Stefan, for the generous sharing of your time and knowledge. 👍
I fully agree on coolant going rancid. We had a constant problem with that on Blanchard grinder.
The note about the height of the head on SHCS. The same applies to SAE SHCS. I forget what the rule is for Low Head Cap Screws. We always "buried" the heads a slight amount. If you have to disassemble something with SHCS's where the heads are full of dirt, debris etc. A drill the same size as the Allen or Hex key solves the problem easily.
Disassembling a Deckel was one of the most inspiring mechanical experiences of my life. The quality of materials alone was amazing. Such a well thought out design. I'm a bit jealous that you are located in the heart of Deckel territory. It's a chore for me in the San Francisco area. Cheers.
They really are build unlike many, many other machines.
oh, you can find even more inspiring mechanical experiences outside the workshop 😉
What a beautiful machine. Perfect size for most work as well
What a video!
NewOldStock shaper head tear down, innovative chuck mod, nice small crane and more.
Thanks Stephan for a really interesting show.
Infinite adjustability of this machine is astounding ! * Yes , I have a horrible case of 'Deckel Envy 😆 - - - ( And I'm fairly certain that I'm not the only one )
Thanks for taking the time to show us your 'new' / old machine . . . You make the machinery world a much better place ! ! ! PROST ! " Mögest du 100 Jahre leben! "
I am glad that you got it in such a good condition!
I just traded my ancient and clapped out soviet FP1 clone for a nice 1st generation Deckel FP4 with the universal table and an additional fine boring head, the quality is superb, all the handwheels move easier than on my old machine even though this machine weighs over 2.7 tons compared to the soviet knockoff's 700kg. Overkill, yes, but I couldn't say no to the unusually low price.
Always interesting to watch a real PRO at work. Thanks. It always amazes me that you English is better than half the people here in Los Angeles.
Nice breakdown of the machine Stefan. I'm always learning at least one nugget of knowledge from your videos. Thanks for sharing your content.
Thank you. The Deckel FP1 is an incredible machine in the hands of an expert. German engineering personified.
I really like your new Deckel. I make tiny complicated parts for science experiments and I’m constantly fighting a conventional 3 axis mill to get good setups. I totally agree it is very nice to be able to sit down at the machine for close work. I recently had to drill eighty 0.3mm holes at an angle in basically a strand of dry spaghetti and it was torture in my Prototrak. Now I’m looking for a Deckel.
1:10:20 Also Stefan, keep an eye on the trolley/truck stop bolt. Bad day if it came off the end. Crain inspectors Always check that.
Thanksfor the hint! That makes sense :D
Fascinating to watch you disassemble the ram. It’s a work of German precision beauty. Thank you for sharing 👏👏👍😀
That was a great tour Stefan..thank you for taking the time to make that.
Some people find it a sacrilege to drill into a machine, but i figure that as long as you improve it from its original state, it's perfectly ok. Like even drilling holes to give yourself access to bigger work, overhanging the table. Done properly, perfectly acceptable, since not all machines have T rails on the side.
The head on my South Bend Mill has a similar setup for holding on with hollow hex nuts. "Made out of gravity" - I'll use that!
Looks great Stefan! 👍👍 Thanks for that tip bit about metric screw heads, I didn't know that one.
One of your best videos yet ! So much good info. The rotary table idea doubling your y axis distance . The all thread through the index head to lift . Mounting the three jaw chuck with through hole screws from the front makes a lot of sense after watching this video. If you come up with a way to add a sensitive down feed quill to the precise high speed head you get the prize! This was really better than going to the theater . thanks
... still my dream machine thank you for showing the ropes
It is a work of beauty a DECKEL FP1! Congratulations Stefan.
Thanks for showing your machines, I have almost a year with my fp1 and automatic I fall in love for the versatility, the machin I bought its almost new never in a production environment, it was from Siemens for training students for less than a year and then it was sell it came to my country Mexico and get stored for years now I have started my quest for getting the accessories it came with the dividing head and the horizontal head but with no arbor an all the collets, the one I need most it's the slotting head I have been searching online but the ones I have found don't want to send to my country.
Thanks Stefan. I learn something from you from every video.
The position of the Y-axis clamping lever is something that I found out to seem totally awkward on first though, but feels super natural when working with the machine.
Such a nice little machine!
Wieder alles gut erklärt! Ich freue mich mit Dir, daß Deine Werkstatt immer besser wird! Was mir ausgesprochen gut gefällt, das ist die Ordnung und Sauberkeit! Wer seine Werkstatt so ordentlich hält, der leistet auch entsprechende Arbeit! Ich glaube, Deine Kunden werden mit Dir sehr zufrieden sein.
Beste Grüße, viel Erfolg und viel Freude bei der Arbeit! 👍👍👍😎
Thanks Stefan. I never realised the relationship between metric socket head nominal diameter and head height. Good to know.
Great video Stefan. That nice little Deckel does everything except make Espresso and is infinitely adaptable. If you like the crane now wait until you get to my age when it becomes mandatory.
Ugh, my old MAHO mill also has a coolant reservoir in the bottom of the casting. I've had the thing for over 2 years and I still havent built up the courage to clean it out. I just use cutting oil and wipe down the machine after use. I am going to steal the barn door rail idea! So much more convenient than the small swing arm crane I have now.
To stop dirt migrating through damaged spots, is use epoxy to fill the divots up. I had a stray steel filing tearing up a way because a rust divot once.
J B weld might be what you want-buy it in grey and you can hardly see it.
Both of you echoed my thoughts.
And for such an otherwise mint component it would seem to be worthwhile.
He said he'd be back. I've decided to trust him and tone down my anxiety for more.
Thanks Stefan, that was very interesting. I had to watch it is two sittings due to the length, but enjoyed it all. Mart in England.
Hi Stefan, I love your videos. I can’t help myself by suggesting to turn the exposure on your camera down a teensy tiny bit. Most clips are overexposed and blow the details of the whites out. Love you so much xoxo sry for the unsolicited advice
Nice work, nice machine! Another way to get to higher speeds is using a SK40 multiplicator which can be held in the vertical head directly. I use a Henninger 6x which gives me a 12.000 rpm max output for the Deckel FP2. For me high enough for most of the work I do but maybe not high enough for your work. It swaps instantly by only changing the tool for the multiplier. And of course you need a small reaction arm on the housing which connects to the machine somewhere. Maybe a tip. All the best, Job
Never heard of that before, sounds really useful
Still drooling! Don't have the space... 😪
A very interesting machine. 👍
you now the Monday is safed when there is a new GTWR video ! Danke Stefan! Grüße aus Wien
Interesting to see you use a copper punch. In the USA we would use a brass punch. Also those nuts are sold by McMaster I’ve used them on a couple projects
Always excited to see another one of your videos pop up on my feed. Thanks.
This reminds me of my neighbor showing me his new car, except I'm much more interested. That's a beautiful machine, and I'm really happy for you.
Stephan, Thank you for taking us along for the ride. Many good lessons and so happy you’ve gotten a lot of good news on the condition of you tool and accessories. Cheers, Will
Enjoyed…great video production/discussion/demonstration…awesome machine and attachments, like the crane simple/smart
I have to add to your tapered gib comment, that I found the crappy movement and slipping of the travel in the Z on my RF45 clone was because the taper on the gibb did not match the taper in the casting. Had to scrape it in but works much better now. I feel a straight gibb would be a much easier fix.
Nice detailed video as allways :)
Briljantly maintained Deckel mill , lets me think of an restaured , pebble beach winning Classic Car.👌👌
Well done ☆☆☆☆☆
Grtzz from the Netherlands Johny geerts
Thank you yet again for another fantastic video. Always great to see how quality machinery is made, and very instructive in that respect - I am currently upgrading a horrible machine that has terrible flat gibs and I am collecting different ideas on how to improve them. Also, really like the way the DTI mount that you made is wearing - looks to have witnessed many many hours of use. Thank you!
Rrrrrrerrrrerredrrdrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrl⁰00
Always a pleasure watching you work. Thanks.
Slotting heads are really neat, as a sort of engineering exercise / way to cut prime number helical gears my Uncle mounted a Bridgeport slotting head horizontally on the Z of his VMC, now he can cut any tooth gear with a simple shop made single point tool with a very clean involute profile generation using his 4th axis. fantastic for bizaro pitch / tooth counts in phenolic or plastic, bit of a stretch in steel unless you baby it since rigidity is not great and you are looking to go the distance on a single cutting edge.
Hi Stefan, thanks so much for this video. I wanted to make a slotting head for my maho, and your meticulous description of yours has really helped! Cheers 🙂
Now the Definition of a "Super-Amateuer" is very clear. Since my Set-Screws are not painted over, I consider my self only as a simple plain Amateur... Well done Big-S!
Hi Stefan, Fantastic video, I worked in aerospace years ago and was very lucky to get a Thiel-Duplex-158 milling machine. I also have lots of accessories like the item you show in your video. You have the fixed table, on my 158 I have the adjustable or tilting table, not as steady as your fixed one but still very handy now and then. Anyway just to say what great machines. Regards Dave.
good video stefan, but another reason to leave the vertical table clear, on Shaublin, Boley and Lorch watchmakers mills they use a dovetail & gib style of mounting, aka not using the t-slots, this mounts on the outside, and the 'gib'/ clamping element are situated on the rear of this table surface, aka the clamp squeezes against the vertical table to clamp, NOT in the Z direction, but the Y axis.
The painted screw heads reminded me of the old machine tool merchant joke :
" Comprehensive restoration ..........................We even painted the swarf !"
I mounted 4 scales on my milling machine
One additional on the quill
This turns out verry handy
Delightfully entertaining! Not to mention a large collection of tips. :)
Hello Stefan, rotary table holder looks perfect for attaching the belt. I waiting for next episode about FP1
I am looking forward to videos of slotting head applications. I am always amazed by your creative solutions. Thanks!
Great stuff Stephan, glad to see you back, cheers, Doug
You grew your hair!!! I just watched that old shop tour video and had to come resub!!youre looking good dude, great to see!
Deckel FP1 -The Movie😄 Conventional wisdom is, shorter is better when it comes to TH-cam. Delighted to see the unconventional here. Good work Stefan. Appreciate your attention to detail.
Nice DRO installation
at 1:17:59 this is what I would have suggested, as it is just adding a "lifting bar", also, like some 'jigs' used in aircraft jet engine assembly you could add a horazontal bar, to adjust the heads' center of gravity, allowing you to balance the assembly, and allow for multiple heads, ie, to adapt this to the many table options, with a tube adaptor flange,etc.
That black hole in your drill press table is so supermassive it should have been designated a Messier number.
An amateur is not someone who messes things up.
An amateur is someone who loves what he is doing.
Only in sports is the word used correctly. As opposed to the professional the amateur does not get paid.
It is probably the professionals who has made that word into a pejorative., as a reflection of themselves.
Stefan, this 'Galling of the way' at 38:03 is prevented by the BRASS gib, this is designed that way, a 'sacraficial lamb' in other words, it gives it's life to save wear on the more expensive dovetail castings, so prolinging their lives.
What a beautiful machine!
ATB, Robin
Thank you for sharing this stuff!
What an incredibly versatile machine! Just amazing!! :)
Good call on the crane! I think that 'handle' for the rotary head is for a lifting strap, btw. Thanks for the very interesting tear-down. That machine looks terrific and i'm eager to see you enjoying it in action.
For wriggling the shaper back together, a small flat wrench (the kind that appear to have been stamped out of thick sheet metal) might be useful for tweaking the T-bolts. (Plus another hand to hold it with, of course.)
People freak out when suggest cutting into a casting. Once on a job, we were being trained on backup generator maintenance. The Diesel engine had an oversized oil filter that was positioned in such a way that it was hitting an unused boss on the engine block when it was all the way unscrewed. After about 30 min of 15 guys standing around being paid overtime and multiple different guys trying to put the filter back on, I suggested that we just cut the boss down 1/4". Everyone acted liked I suggested we murder a puppy. They finally dented in the filter enough to get it on.
That is mob mentality. Next time take action and watch them follow.
Great work Stefan, I like the crane.
And not a speck of rust in that slotting head. What magical rust preventative was used on this one?
Such a cool machine.
10:34 an oil-water separator from a truck is a good option. I have a bigger one, that's meant to go on a marine engine (a friend had a surplus, so no clue what the real price would be) but for a small machine like this, an off the shelf one would probably work quite well to output the oil and coolant separately. Dunno, unsure if the small ones work as well as the big ones.
Not sure what type of wood you used for the 'Dolly', but I have seen issues with some wood types that contain natural resin or have anti rotting additives, where the wood initiated corrosion on equipment where they contact metal. Maybe consider lining any exposed wood contact surfaces of the Dolly with an inert (thin) material that won't cause issues.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe even a thin no-metallic shim like HDPE? Although I can’t really believe I’m qualified to give any advice to Stefan the Master Machinist who is always thinking well above my pay grade. 🙏
@@joell439 HDPE sounds like a good choice, I know Stefan reads the comments, he's maybe already aware that the wood he used is safe with the exposed metallic faces of the slotting head, then all is good :)
I know that oak doesn’t play well with ferrous alloys. Not aware of a ‘safe’ wood however?
Just look at almost all old wooden tooling boxes, a felt lining glued on where the metal of the tool touches.
never thought about the wood contact idea --thanks
One note on Eye Bolts. They are not meant to be used at 90° to the direction of lift. They are meant to be used so the lifting forces are on the centerline of the threads
Amazing machine and quality detail work.Thank you.
If I can get to the point where you find it barely acceptable would be as good as I can get it ! You might not make it perfect but your pretty dam close to it ! I'm not a sickofant or a Suk up I think your as precise as TH-cam machining gose your one of the best . Thanx
Ich denke, man hat die Bolzen in der T-Nut in Kombination mit Hohlmuttern von außen gewählt, weil das Ausrichten noch komplizierter wäre, wenn man die Muttern in der Nut hätte und diese mit den Bohrungen in Übereinstimmung bringen müsste. Wenn die Bolzen mal grob in den richtigen Löchern sitzen, können sie sich beim evtl. nötigen weiteren hin- und herdrehen des Kopfes mitbewegen.
Thanks for the great content as always.
That lifting handle for the rotary table looks as if it would work better on a boat.
I was lucky enough to be given a 24 Volt battery operated hospital lift rated at 180 kgs. And a set of aluminium rails I could fit into a traversing crane. Completely overkill, but free. And I have an FP2, which has heavier accessories..
Another very interesting video Stefan, thanks
Really enjoyed that! Thanks Stefan
45000rpm spindle is serious speed.
Many of the countries in Europe had clones or variants of Deckel. Some clones have interchangable parts and attachments with Deckel.
Interesting part is their similarity and commonality of use. And they are still in use everywhere.
Be careful when spining tools in left rotation, if your feed is engaged, feed stops will not work and shear pin for feed will snap if it hits end of travel.
Your spine will say "thank you for the crane".
Interesting video, Stafan.
I wonder if putting a slightly energized (maybe 6 volts) or even non energized copper/silver electrode, like the ones used in solar floating pool sanitizers, into the bottom of the tank in the base of the FP1 would keep bacterial and algae growth out of the oil/coolant mixture? Maybe a small amount of chlorine added to the coolant water mixture as well? The aquarium bubbler sounds interesting. Another option would be to place a water proof UV light bar in the tank? Or add an ozone source to the bubbler? Ozone might attack the coolant or oil too aggressively. Perhaps setting up an electrolytic circuit with the copper silver bar as mentioned above would also be a bad idea, but I think it would act as the sacrificial anode and keep the cast iron from rusting. One could paint the expose iron or the tank, or somehow line it with paint or a layer of epoxy or urethane. Anyway, just some ideas that popped into my head. They are probably all dumb ideas but…
I didn't know that you could use Ticonderoga pencils for tightening cap screws, torque limited and comes with an eraser. I think the trough bolts upstairs came out under the piano, nobody will notice. The machine must be happier than a three legged rescue dog, to be adopted by Stefan.
FWIW my machines use flood coolant, have a tramp-oil problem and sometimes don't get used for weeks on end, and I have never had coolant go "bad" on me.
The stuff in the mill (possibly 5 years old, only ever been topped up) is a bit watery looking at first after a week or more rest, and needs an hour or so circulating through the job to look like coolant again. But I think you are over-estimating the extent of the problem.
Great idea, to make the chuck mounted from the front.
Time 52:10.... "Usually You can drill through....". As I had to take the brand new chuck apart for cleaning the interior from chips, dirt etc I know how it's done. Taking the chuck apart, at least open the bottom seal, would be a good way to check if the drill through will improve or destroy the chuck.
Time 59:30. True, both back mounting using M8 and front mounting using M6. Using M6 front mounting there is a significant distance from the cap screw head down to the receiving M6 hole. Using the M8 back mounting the corresponding distance is a lot shorter. No backlash from this in the respect of arm, force, torque? First thought was drilling an 8 mm hole the hole way and use long M8 screws and front mounting. The mini lathe is rather fiddly with its washers and M8 nuts...
Just wondering if the 4 jaw Independent could be converted to M8 front mounting.... That would make chuck changes much easier and faster. Interesting.....
Time 01:02:08, drilling in the rotating table... As I haven't taking it apart yet I don't dare to drill, but it is interesting to mount the 5" 3 jaw directly, without the adapter plate. Investigation launched..
When you use 3-phase phase-switching to switch the rotation when tapping, is it just a simple switch and you flip from forward to reverse direction directly. Or do you let the spindle stop, then reverse? I assume it goes on-off-on or I imagine it would be hard on the gears. I believe the feeds only work in one direction too.
I just wanted to wish you a merry Christmas. I really enjoy your presentations.
Thank you! Wish you and your family the same :)
Perhaps you could fill in the gaps in the slides with soft (lead-based, non-silver) solder? It wouldn't bear any load but it would at least keep foreign material from getting stuck in the gaps.
I was thinking this too, but wasn't sure what solder or braze would be best.
Great video. Looking at the chain setup you have made me think back to my tower work days. You might get better service out of a small block & tackle rope pulley system. You'd be able to pull from a more convenient place and with a more fine feel for the items you're moving, as well as finer positioning control. Just a thought! Keep up the amazing work, always a pleasure.
The nice thing with a chain fall is that it locks when you let go of the chain. Self locking, I think with a rope and pulley you have to tie off the rope.
We want a tour of your shop and all of your tools! Roger in Calgary.
For those who are contemplating putting a switch or contactor downstream of a vfd I can tell you that what he is saying about burning / exploding is entirely true. I tried putting a step up transformer from 220 to 550 after a vfd and then running to a starter contactor. You know when a bomb goes off beside Wile E Coyote (millennials will have to google it) and in the next scene he is all charred and smouldering? It was kinda like that.
Non machinist question here. Could those defects in the rails be filled with a soft low melting point metal, just to hold the oil better and maybe keep the dirt out also?
If you want the speed and effortlessness of an electric hoist, with the precision and control of a manual hoist, you can get a pneumatic hoist.