I never use a drill press for drilling; I always use a milling machine for drilling holes. I also use Wera tools alot here in the U.S.. Excellent tools.
Very nice work Stefan! You are doing a good job of showing how the FP1 is a far more versatile milling system than a Bridgeport style machine. ATB, Robin
Every time I see you make something with the Deckle I'm amazed yet again with it's precision and versatility (not to mention your vast skills). Thanks Stefan!
its interesting to note, at 35:50, Stefan is using his deckel to cut gears. In the background there is a picture with what looks to be the exact same setup, doing the exact same operation.
I also made a custom gear for my lathe. Bought the machined gear blank from McMaster-Carr and used a simple square tool bit to put the keyway slot in using the carriage feed on the lathe. I just forced it through repeatedly using very tiny cuts. Slow process but worked well enough. Watching this channel costs money in addition to a little Patreon support I give. Several times I've bought tools as a result.
I bought a schlaublin lathe sight unseen and the guy said there was a bunch of tools he’d throw in for an extra hundred bucks and he’d bring the whole lot to my house. I really did well on that deal. In with a bunch of great lathe stuff there was some Deckel accessories. I sold them to reseller in Norway. I was impressed with the quality. Watching you use this machine makes me wish I had one.
I don't think there is anything wrong with your approach. Keeping the machine mostly/fairly original is worthwhile, and every minute spent machining, even side projects or tools to help you out in preumably just one job, improves skills and will always turn out more helpful than initially assumed in the end. I already have a few Wera sets, some from their advent calenders, and was surprised by the strenght of even their 1/4 inch ratchet. Was in a bind and used a 30 cm crescent wrench to get more leverage. When the screw (M8) broke loose I first thought the rathcet snapped, but it didnt get damaged in the slightest. Still runs smooth as butter. Needless to say, I immediately ordered the tool set you presented, 63€ with 1 day delivery is more than fair for their quality.
Was watching an old James Bond movie, The Man With The Golden Gun, the other night and noticed what im pretty sure was an FP1 in a gunsmith’s shop who worked for the main villain. Immediately brought you to mind.
For the ratios, if you think the 28 tooth gear is too small you could have always stepped up to 35/75 or even 42/90. By the way, there are often even ways to arrange your existing change gears to get your desired pitch or at least close to it, and there are online calculators for it. But doing it this way provides some nice content for us, so I'm happy :)
I spent my working life ensuring that the gears and industrial gearboxes met the customers specification. When gears have a profile tolerance ( K chart ) of + 0 / -0.0002" / -0.0005" you need precision throughout the manufacturing and quality control stages. Your set-up was perfectly adequate for the job, I look forward to more of your gear work. Thanks for posting.
In American shops we have Bridgeports (and clones) like the Dutch have bicycles. They're just everywhere.... Plus a variety of attachments. The Deckel looks really handy, though. A better choice for a variety of smaller parts I think. I'd like to have one. I also just ordered the ratchet set you showed. You're right - the small size is very nice.
In the US Deckels are around. But hen's teeth seem more common. And are priced accordingly. Usually bought by high end companies or university labs with deep pockets. In Europe it seems just about everybody cloned the Deckel style mills.
Hello Stefan. Nice video. I would like to add that the thread pitch of a bolt/shaft is normally slightly larger than the thread pitch of a nut/hole (few microns per pitch). As a result, the first two / three threads of the connection at the clamping side holds the load. In this movie you are preparing for an internal thread cutting, and therefore a slightly smaller thread pitch than nominal is preferred in general. However with the gears combination you made and used you will create an internal thread which has a slightly larger thread pitch than nominal. In this case of a collet and drawbar it is of course no problem.
41:35 I use a cone shaped brush like that in the body shop. Works great, still on the first one, bought it 17 yrs ago. I use it to sand truck beds before spraying the bedliner .
After watching your vid, I went and ordered that WERA tool kit, took a bit of searching to find one, once I did, just a cpl days to receive it. OMG, absolutely everything you said it was. OUTSTANDING quality. Exactly what I needed and already in frequent use. Very very handy. I agree with Robin, your FP1 def is more versatile than a Bridgeport, but unfortunately they are as rare as hens teeth here in the US....as as costly as a space rock when you find one....Thanks and keep up the great work. Don
It's also a *lot* smaller. I have a British FP1 clone and the horizontal envelope is like 300mm x 150mm, or 12" x 6". Not sure what the table travel is on a Bridgeport but I bet it's more than a foot!
That linnen-phenolic material (in the country where your neighbors live it's called 'celleron') is indeed great material for gears. Very strong, stable, wear resistant, silent running and a dream to machine (except the dust..). Great video again Stefan!
Very cool and elegant work. Just wonderfull. When I compare the (usual, not all!) low grade machining I (used to) get locally It's just amazing to see such an elegant work.
Deckels are amazing. It’s incredibly useful that feeds are mechanically tied to the spindle speed. On a manual BP you’re going by feel due to the fact that a power feed on a Bridgeport is just some sort of random servo motor hanging off the feed screw for whatever axis it’s attached to. K&T mills are excellent machines that have very similar features to a deckel just a bit larger. Unfortunately they’re not easy to find in decent condition and with accessories. Normally you find them only with the horizontal draw bar and completely clapped out.
The problem in my view is finding a semi decent condition machine... A fully clapped out machine is a joy to work on, as you know that after scraping and surface grinding, you will be able to fit in the rulon/turcite bearing strips and alubronze precision sheet or hss strips... One or the other on either side... Thereafter you have replenished the surfaces to factory specifications height wise, and not just that, but it allows you to work in absolutely minimal t.i.r. over all axes combined... You get a machine for a few bucks essentially and for another few, you can with effort and love get the machine to jig grinder accuracy... Sure, its a bother and a time investment of a high caliber, yet the outcome can be a machine that far surpasses the machine that came outta factory, both in regards to precision, fit, smoothness, actuation and so on... Having a slightly worn machine does not justify the needed material removal for such a reparation, yet provides you with a machine that aint either perfect nor clapped out...
Does not have to be Deckel, almost every country in Europe had clone or look a like machine produced. They are all good and perform simillar. Germans prefer Deckel, but no one can say nothing bad about Schaublin, Avia, Abene, Tos, Maho or Macmon. Deckel was first and has almost like cult following (like BMW R motorcycles and VW cars) in Germany and lands that gravity to Germany. K&T is great but is in another league, BP gets job done but R8 and electric feeds are not quite desirable options if you have choice to do better. Great condition machines can still be found on auctions or insolvent buyouts but you need to take your time. Also good Macmon M100 can be purchased in north for 3000E, in region where it originated it will set you back for 7000E with diferent labels fitted, mint with all extras 10000E. Older but good Maho is also much cheaper than Deckel.
@@sinisatrlin840 I agree with pretty much everything you've said. BP "get's the job done", but doesn't necessarily excel at any part of it. I LOVE Tos machines, but they aren't prevalent in North America, same with most of the EU machines, just hard to find. But in general, there are a lot of really nice EU machines, like you said. But none of them are very common in NA. BP machines are ubiquitous in NA, parts and information are easy to find and cheap, everyone knows how to work on them, they're just everywhere. I am on the lookout for a nice horizontal/vertical machine with all mechanical features. There was recently a fully kitted out K&T near me that I let slip through my fingers and have been regretting it ever since. Won't happen again... 🤣
@@DavidHerscher I have TOS FN25 for a long time now, it has most of extras like stiff and universal table, slotting head, vertical head with quill and horisontal attachment. Dividing attachment is from Deckel and universal table is made by Maho and everything fits like original (attachments comonality), somehow paint is in same light green from the factory. It is the cheapest machine in my shop, got it on internet auction and when i retire it goes with me. All other large machines will be sold. I would also recomend "smaller" Huron mills like MU4, there is a reason why Boeing and Airbus had lots of Hurons in pre cnc era, and now also new CNC Huron machines. Another EU "unknown jewel" is Abene, great machines from Sweden.
Wera hex keys are amazing too. On rounded out bolts where the hex looks looks like a round hole they still work. On the machines i work on there were a few hex bolts rounded out but no space to get in to drill them out. Wera saved the day
Dear Stefan... everytime i watch i learn something new in each video. Your skills with the machines and with the filming is superb my friend! Thankyou for always sharing great content👍🙏
I made an excel spreadsheet (VBA) (long ago) where you input all the gears you have and the lead screw pitch. It uses the raw force method ( looking at all the combinations ) and outputs the the combinations that are within a specified error. Following are the results with minimal error. 40 40 35 75 1.4000 0.0000 40 50 35 60 1.4000 0.0000 40 60 35 50 1.4000 0.0000 40 75 35 40 1.4000 0.0000 40 75 70 80 1.4000 0.0000 40 80 70 75 1.4000 0.0000 Of course, you have to look if it is possible to mount the gears on the lathe.
As you seem to be knowledgeable.. may I ask what you get (error) when you check the gear combinations that are printed on that thread cutting placard visible around 1:38? I always thought a metric leadscrew machine was capable of cutting the common metric threads with minimal error without having to change gears.. but putting the numbers for feed (mm/turn) into a spreadsheet and comparing it to the mm/turn of the threads given for the same gearbox settings there are errors there, no matter what I do for the factor to get them into equal ranges. Some threads worse than others. Is that normal? (note: I don't have a lathe - yet - and no machinist background (physics/engineering), I'm living in AUS and will get a lathe and right now try to figure out if it is worthwhile to chase one with metric lead screw instead of imperial, as the latter is more common, but I'm firmly in metric land).
@@pietvermaat5928 so it is normal for the threads on the placard of a lathe (metric or imperial) to be off, at least some of them, yes? That's new to me. Didn't expect that. Thanks.
Bravo on the double ended carbide chamfer tool. Very nice. Wera driver set is cool. I might have to get one I can see many uses in my work where the low profile would be advantageous. So every time I see you use the FP1 and it's various attachments you at your disposal it becomes abundantly clear why you like it so much. Cheers
8:06 it cracked me up when you laughed at your success. A small prize albeit a self congratulatory one, for all the years of study and work. I’m sure a lot of viewers like me are laughing with you as these types mathematical solutions are the foundations of good engineering
Hi Stefan! This is the first time I see some reputable YT machinist doing thread pitch checking and not use the thread comb. It is all too usual to see how the workpiece is scratched and then this scratch is compared against the thread comb. Of course it is a sanity check and is not supposed to be an accurate measure of the produced thread but it is the scratching I dislike. I have always done my thread pitch checking in the way You presented. Instead of a DRO I have a travel indicator which gives 0.1 millimeter accuracy but after 10 turns, that accuracy is actually one hudredth of a millimeter for one thread. I do have that dreaded thread comb and I use it to figure out pitches of existing threads. With long threads one option is to use a ruler and measure the distance over several threads. With metric threads this is quite easy. Not so much with imperial threads. At the moment I am halfway through Your video but I already thank You for a clear and precise presentation.
I miss Deckel FP1. When I was an apprentice, it was the Milling machine who could do it all today I use a CNC instead but I miss a Deckel FP1Milling machine. 🙂And it's almost 30 years ago
Niiiiice work. I love gear cutting, and additional slot cutting as a bonus? You spoil us, Herr Gotteswinter. Those Wera socket sets are lovely. Even the "normal" set is gorgeous (and I can't even afford one of them), but I'd really like one of those little low profile sets. I have a set of Wera hex keys, I suspect they're the same ones you have, absolutely life changing. For anyone who's never used them, they really *are* that good - I'm comparing to SAM or Facom, not chinesium junk.
Great video! Unfortunately my lathe is missing most of the gears needed for changing thread pitch so I'm looking at making an electronic lead screw with a servomotor.
Brilliant work as always and has me motivated to finish my FP1 clone rebuild. I was always told to not put your finger anywhere you would put your little fella 😂
Going from normal machining to high precession, reminds me of a saying from physics. “Special Relativity is relatively easy, General Relativity can get really hairy.
When customers allow for the time - I am making now an entire Living of the shop and work does not slow down at all at the moment - good and bad thing at the same time. I have some projects that i am designing on and also i need to get the dbit grinder back together.
Make sure the part is concentric to the rotary table if you use the indicator method for picking up the broach the first cut looked a little to one side not that the minor amount of error would result in an issue per this application
I think I mentioned it before (I know I posted on 'This Old Tony') Metric gear cutters (1~8) run in the opposite direction compared to Imperial gear cutters for the number of teeth they cut. (rack for Imperial would be number 1)
Speaking of you digital indexing attachment. This is also the reason I dislike digital measuring instruments. It seems every time I really need one of mine the battery is dead and I don't have a spare!
Always instructional to see another of your well structured demonstrations. Where did you choose to visit for your getaway, if I may be so bold as to inquire? 😊
Great video, love the milling machine and the Wera stuff. I'm always impressed with your attention to detail - never any it will do! I have just had to treat myself to one of those sets!
Nice work, but you forgot to look at what other pitches you can now do if you mix this new gear with your others. I cut a 31 or something like that and was surprised what other pitches i can now do with less than 3% error.
Hey Stefan, thank you very much for all of your great video stuff!! A short question: The Wera tools, do you have a link? It seems to be a good solution for the things I'm working on. Thx!
Hello Stefan, Thanks for another excellent tutorial. Those small Wera wrenches look really useful to me, do you have a Wera part number for them ? Best Regards, Graham from UK
@@grafixbyjorj Thank you so much for your efforts ! - I had no luck tracking that set down. Quite expensive in UK but it looks like a lifetime tool, so I think I'll go for it - Thanks once again !
Just curious Stefan, if you want to gain proficiency with the slotting head and the mill cutters for gear profile are so indifferent, why did you not grind a cutter and cut the gear teeth using the slotting head? You already had the head set up on the machine, only needed to mount the rotary head which you had to do anyway.
Whenever I see threading work on a lathe I’m tempted to replace my current one so I can finally follow in their footsteps (my current lathe is a rusty sherline someone was throwing out, and I’d rather get a more capable lathe rather than buying their change gear set and having to single point under hand power)
No, the VDH is a sad story - I was almost done and I dropped the casting. A piece snapped off, and I am still annoyed. It sits in a box in the basement, probably rusting.
You're a beacon of light shining brightly in the grim dark reality of machining - love your videos and machining.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with you, Stefan.
We all have SOMETHING to work on. Youre sweet, but youre a liar.
I never use a drill press for drilling; I always use a milling machine for drilling holes.
I also use Wera tools alot here in the U.S.. Excellent tools.
Very nice work Stefan! You are doing a good job of showing how the FP1 is a far more versatile milling system than a Bridgeport style machine.
ATB, Robin
Hey Robin, post something on youtube, we miss you , atb steve
Thank you Robin!
Every time I see you make something with the Deckle I'm amazed yet again with it's precision and versatility (not to mention your vast skills). Thanks Stefan!
May I say that your videography, in addition to your engineering and machining, is wonderful.
its interesting to note, at 35:50, Stefan is using his deckel to cut gears. In the background there is a picture with what looks to be the exact same setup, doing the exact same operation.
I also made a custom gear for my lathe. Bought the machined gear blank from McMaster-Carr and used a simple square tool bit to put the keyway slot in using the carriage feed on the lathe. I just forced it through repeatedly using very tiny cuts. Slow process but worked well enough. Watching this channel costs money in addition to a little Patreon support I give. Several times I've bought tools as a result.
I bought a schlaublin lathe sight unseen and the guy said there was a bunch of tools he’d throw in for an extra hundred bucks and he’d bring the whole lot to my house. I really did well on that deal. In with a bunch of great lathe stuff there was some Deckel accessories. I sold them to reseller in Norway. I was impressed with the quality. Watching you use this machine makes me wish I had one.
The FP-1 is absolutely amazing... Thanks for sharing!
I don't think there is anything wrong with your approach. Keeping the machine mostly/fairly original is worthwhile, and every minute spent machining, even side projects or tools to help you out in preumably just one job, improves skills and will always turn out more helpful than initially assumed in the end.
I already have a few Wera sets, some from their advent calenders, and was surprised by the strenght of even their 1/4 inch ratchet. Was in a bind and used a 30 cm crescent wrench to get more leverage. When the screw (M8) broke loose I first thought the rathcet snapped, but it didnt get damaged in the slightest. Still runs smooth as butter. Needless to say, I immediately ordered the tool set you presented, 63€ with 1 day delivery is more than fair for their quality.
@ExplosiveBoy93 do you have a name / reference for the Wera tool kit. My Google-fu is failing me ... TIA
I was starting to get mad ...but then you showed the thread cutting. What a relief.
Was watching an old James Bond movie, The Man With The Golden Gun, the other night and noticed what im pretty sure was an FP1 in a gunsmith’s shop who worked for the main villain. Immediately brought you to mind.
HA! It looks like an FP1, but isnt - Its an Alexander "Master Toolmaker", a deckel copy or license build ;)
For the ratios, if you think the 28 tooth gear is too small you could have always stepped up to 35/75 or even 42/90. By the way, there are often even ways to arrange your existing change gears to get your desired pitch or at least close to it, and there are online calculators for it. But doing it this way provides some nice content for us, so I'm happy :)
nothing but great work as always Stefan . That mill is a treasure . Cheers Ade.
I spent my working life ensuring that the gears and industrial gearboxes met the customers specification. When gears have a profile tolerance ( K chart ) of + 0 / -0.0002" / -0.0005" you need precision throughout the manufacturing and quality control stages. Your set-up was perfectly adequate for the job, I look forward to more of your gear work. Thanks for posting.
Exceptional Presentations!!! Reliable Machinery = Bulletproof Infrastructure!
In American shops we have Bridgeports (and clones) like the Dutch have bicycles. They're just everywhere.... Plus a variety of attachments. The Deckel looks really handy, though. A better choice for a variety of smaller parts I think. I'd like to have one. I also just ordered the ratchet set you showed. You're right - the small size is very nice.
What code has that ratchet set, I want it too! :D
In the US Deckels are around. But hen's teeth seem more common. And are priced accordingly. Usually bought by high end companies or university labs with deep pockets. In Europe it seems just about everybody cloned the Deckel style mills.
Hello Stefan. Nice video. I would like to add that the thread pitch of a bolt/shaft is normally slightly larger than the thread pitch of a nut/hole (few microns per pitch). As a result, the first two / three threads of the connection at the clamping side holds the load.
In this movie you are preparing for an internal thread cutting, and therefore a slightly smaller thread pitch than nominal is preferred in general. However with the gears combination you made and used you will create an internal thread which has a slightly larger thread pitch than nominal. In this case of a collet and drawbar it is of course no problem.
Man (Stefan) & Machine (FP1) in perfect harmony :)
I think in this case, both are machine. No way a human could be so precise.
If only these machines were available here in the USA. In numbers. As usual , fantastic work.
Interesting video. I can easily see that,you take very good care of your machines and tooling.None of them have been abused.
I watched this video when it came out. But I watched it again and it still learned something.
What a great start to the weekend! 😊 A new long Gotteswinter machining video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
41:35 I use a cone shaped brush like that in the body shop. Works great, still on the first one, bought it 17 yrs ago. I use it to sand truck beds before spraying the bedliner .
After watching your vid, I went and ordered that WERA tool kit, took a bit of searching to find one, once I did, just a cpl days to receive it. OMG, absolutely everything you said it was. OUTSTANDING quality. Exactly what I needed and already in frequent use. Very very handy.
I agree with Robin, your FP1 def is more versatile than a Bridgeport, but unfortunately they are as rare as hens teeth here in the US....as as costly as a space rock when you find one....Thanks and keep up the great work.
Don
It's also a *lot* smaller. I have a British FP1 clone and the horizontal envelope is like 300mm x 150mm, or 12" x 6". Not sure what the table travel is on a Bridgeport but I bet it's more than a foot!
@@cooperised It's over 30" in x and maybe 10" on y.
"I'm not entirely sure what is wrong with me" 🙂 Very true for many of us, Stefan....
enjoy your sense of humor...
Russ
Man, the Deckel is such a versatile machine. Really nice bit of kit.
Thanks for doing the math. I'm hopeless, but my son is using this for some of his work.
Lovely gear! Matches the quality of the original gears.
That linnen-phenolic material (in the country where your neighbors live it's called 'celleron') is indeed great material for gears. Very strong, stable, wear resistant, silent running and a dream to machine (except the dust..). Great video again Stefan!
Thanks Stefan. I've just recently got my hands on a slotting head for my Bridgeport so it was nice to get some tips on setting up.
Stefan Gotte-Tan.
On a serious note you look like you had a blast!
Stefan, another great example of unusual problems the FP1 can solve for a toolmaker. Thanks for sharing.
I never considered making the missing gear for my Hardinge super precision until now. Great work and an even greater video
Stefan, always such a pleasure to pull up a chair and learn from the master. Thanks for all the details. 👍👍😎👍👍
Very cool and elegant work. Just wonderfull.
When I compare the (usual, not all!) low grade machining I (used to) get locally It's just amazing to see such an elegant work.
Thanks so much for the rich content. You’re such a fantastic teacher and artist with the work you do! 👍🏽👍🏽💪🏾💪🏾
Lovely to see the mill getting a good workout 😀
Great video and amazing work. Thank you Stefan!
I am so envious of your deckel that I bought a romanian Fus 22 milling machine last week.
Deckels are amazing. It’s incredibly useful that feeds are mechanically tied to the spindle speed. On a manual BP you’re going by feel due to the fact that a power feed on a Bridgeport is just some sort of random servo motor hanging off the feed screw for whatever axis it’s attached to. K&T mills are excellent machines that have very similar features to a deckel just a bit larger. Unfortunately they’re not easy to find in decent condition and with accessories. Normally you find them only with the horizontal draw bar and completely clapped out.
The problem in my view is finding a semi decent condition machine... A fully clapped out machine is a joy to work on, as you know that after scraping and surface grinding, you will be able to fit in the rulon/turcite bearing strips and alubronze precision sheet or hss strips... One or the other on either side... Thereafter you have replenished the surfaces to factory specifications height wise, and not just that, but it allows you to work in absolutely minimal t.i.r. over all axes combined... You get a machine for a few bucks essentially and for another few, you can with effort and love get the machine to jig grinder accuracy... Sure, its a bother and a time investment of a high caliber, yet the outcome can be a machine that far surpasses the machine that came outta factory, both in regards to precision, fit, smoothness, actuation and so on... Having a slightly worn machine does not justify the needed material removal for such a reparation, yet provides you with a machine that aint either perfect nor clapped out...
The K&T mills that are really nice to use are the Rotary Head mills. After using one of them understanding CNC operations was a piece of cake.
Does not have to be Deckel, almost every country in Europe had clone or look a like machine produced. They are all good and perform simillar. Germans prefer Deckel, but no one can say nothing bad about Schaublin, Avia, Abene, Tos, Maho or Macmon. Deckel was first and has almost like cult following (like BMW R motorcycles and VW cars) in Germany and lands that gravity to Germany.
K&T is great but is in another league, BP gets job done but R8 and electric feeds are not quite desirable options if you have choice to do better.
Great condition machines can still be found on auctions or insolvent buyouts but you need to take your time.
Also good Macmon M100 can be purchased in north for 3000E, in region where it originated it will set you back for 7000E with diferent labels fitted, mint with all extras 10000E. Older but good Maho is also much cheaper than Deckel.
@@sinisatrlin840 I agree with pretty much everything you've said. BP "get's the job done", but doesn't necessarily excel at any part of it. I LOVE Tos machines, but they aren't prevalent in North America, same with most of the EU machines, just hard to find. But in general, there are a lot of really nice EU machines, like you said. But none of them are very common in NA. BP machines are ubiquitous in NA, parts and information are easy to find and cheap, everyone knows how to work on them, they're just everywhere. I am on the lookout for a nice horizontal/vertical machine with all mechanical features. There was recently a fully kitted out K&T near me that I let slip through my fingers and have been regretting it ever since. Won't happen again... 🤣
@@DavidHerscher I have TOS FN25 for a long time now, it has most of extras like stiff and universal table, slotting head, vertical head with quill and horisontal attachment. Dividing attachment is from Deckel and universal table is made by Maho and everything fits like original (attachments comonality), somehow paint is in same light green from the factory. It is the cheapest machine in my shop, got it on internet auction and when i retire it goes with me. All other large machines will be sold.
I would also recomend "smaller" Huron mills like MU4, there is a reason why Boeing and Airbus had lots of Hurons in pre cnc era, and now also new CNC Huron machines. Another EU "unknown jewel" is Abene, great machines from Sweden.
Wera hex keys are amazing too. On rounded out bolts where the hex looks looks like a round hole they still work. On the machines i work on there were a few hex bolts rounded out but no space to get in to drill them out. Wera saved the day
Dear Stefan... everytime i watch i learn something new in each video. Your skills with the machines and with the filming is superb my friend! Thankyou for always sharing great content👍🙏
I was starting to get concerned there that after watching the entire video you weren't going to make threads! Thanks. Subscribed.
I made an excel spreadsheet (VBA) (long ago) where you input all the gears you have and the lead screw pitch. It uses the raw force method ( looking at all the combinations ) and outputs the the combinations that are within a specified error. Following are the results with minimal error.
40 40 35 75 1.4000 0.0000
40 50 35 60 1.4000 0.0000
40 60 35 50 1.4000 0.0000
40 75 35 40 1.4000 0.0000
40 75 70 80 1.4000 0.0000
40 80 70 75 1.4000 0.0000
Of course, you have to look if it is possible to mount the gears on the lathe.
As you seem to be knowledgeable.. may I ask what you get (error) when you check the gear combinations that are printed on that thread cutting placard visible around 1:38?
I always thought a metric leadscrew machine was capable of cutting the common metric threads with minimal error without having to change gears.. but putting the numbers for feed (mm/turn) into a spreadsheet and comparing it to the mm/turn of the threads given for the same gearbox settings there are errors there, no matter what I do for the factor to get them into equal ranges. Some threads worse than others.
Is that normal? (note: I don't have a lathe - yet - and no machinist background (physics/engineering), I'm living in AUS and will get a lathe and right now try to figure out if it is worthwhile to chase one with metric lead screw instead of imperial, as the latter is more common, but I'm firmly in metric land).
@@pietvermaat5928 so it is normal for the threads on the placard of a lathe (metric or imperial) to be off, at least some of them, yes?
That's new to me. Didn't expect that. Thanks.
Thanks Stefan, very enjoyable. I particularly appreciate the details about centering a slotting cutter, as it’s applicable to a shaper as well. 👍
Thanks for sharing Stefan.
Bravo on the double ended carbide chamfer tool. Very nice. Wera driver set is cool. I might have to get one I can see many uses in my work where the low profile would be advantageous. So every time I see you use the FP1 and it's various attachments you at your disposal it becomes abundantly clear why you like it so much. Cheers
8:06 it cracked me up when you laughed at your success. A small prize albeit a self congratulatory one, for all the years of study and work. I’m sure a lot of viewers like me are laughing with you as these types mathematical solutions are the foundations of good engineering
Hi Stefan!
This is the first time I see some reputable YT machinist doing thread pitch checking and not use the thread comb. It is all too usual to see how the workpiece is scratched and then this scratch is compared against the thread comb. Of course it is a sanity check and is not supposed to be an accurate measure of the produced thread but it is the scratching I dislike.
I have always done my thread pitch checking in the way You presented. Instead of a DRO I have a travel indicator which gives 0.1 millimeter accuracy but after 10 turns, that accuracy is actually one hudredth of a millimeter for one thread.
I do have that dreaded thread comb and I use it to figure out pitches of existing threads. With long threads one option is to use a ruler and measure the distance over several threads. With metric threads this is quite easy. Not so much with imperial threads.
At the moment I am halfway through Your video but I already thank You for a clear and precise presentation.
I miss Deckel FP1.
When I was an apprentice, it was the Milling machine who could do it all
today I use a CNC instead but I miss a Deckel FP1Milling machine.
🙂And it's almost 30 years ago
Excellent work,Stefan.Thank you for sharing.
36:06 that is quite a sound.
Great setup: fun video.
Superb work Stefan as always. Enjoy learning from your videos Cheers Nobby
Niiiiice work. I love gear cutting, and additional slot cutting as a bonus? You spoil us, Herr Gotteswinter.
Those Wera socket sets are lovely. Even the "normal" set is gorgeous (and I can't even afford one of them), but I'd really like one of those little low profile sets. I have a set of Wera hex keys, I suspect they're the same ones you have, absolutely life changing. For anyone who's never used them, they really *are* that good - I'm comparing to SAM or Facom, not chinesium junk.
Wera ist Spitze! Danke Stefan für dieses Video.
Great video!
Unfortunately my lathe is missing most of the gears needed for changing thread pitch so I'm looking at making an electronic lead screw with a servomotor.
Great video! Like the weir tools too. I bought a mini Torx screw driver set and it is very nice also.
Love seeing work on the FP1. I have been looking for one here in the US for quite a while. They are difficult to find here.
Good to see how you use Deckel
Fantastic content as always, thank you.
I like making gears but seldom have a reason. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Genius as expected Stefan.
Ooh, Stefan cutting gears! Juicy!
Brilliant work as always and has me motivated to finish my FP1 clone rebuild.
I was always told to not put your finger anywhere you would put your little fella 😂
Very good job stefan..thanks for your time
Going from normal machining to high precession, reminds me of a saying from physics. “Special Relativity is relatively easy, General Relativity can get really hairy.
thanks Stefan!
When will you have another full build video? I really miss them and I've watched all the other ones at least twice.
When customers allow for the time - I am making now an entire Living of the shop and work does not slow down at all at the moment - good and bad thing at the same time.
I have some projects that i am designing on and also i need to get the dbit grinder back together.
@@StefanGotteswinter I'm excited for any and all D bit grinder content. Love your work.
Make sure the part is concentric to the rotary table if you use the indicator method for picking up the broach the first cut looked a little to one side not that the minor amount of error would result in an issue per this application
Perfectly thought out everything as always. Thanks Stefan!
And I have the book Tabellenbuch Metal, but where is it?
I think I mentioned it before (I know I posted on 'This Old Tony')
Metric gear cutters (1~8) run in the opposite direction compared to Imperial gear cutters for the number of teeth they cut. (rack for Imperial would be number 1)
This is so cool, thanks for sharing
Speaking of you digital indexing attachment. This is also the reason I dislike digital measuring instruments. It seems every time I really need one of mine the battery is dead and I don't have a spare!
This was super fascinating. Thank you.
Nicely done Stefan, enjoyed.
If you do it, you can do it properly. That's Stefan. That's why I love your work - no shitty shortcuts, be it machining or video editing. Thanks :)
excellent for the noobies and also for the oldies like me. at 62 yrs old
We never stop learning :)
Lol, I just posted a video on my channel today where a cut a gear on the FP1. But, of course, I tid things my way :)
Super probational works. Thanks for sharing
Always instructional to see another of your well structured demonstrations. Where did you choose to visit for your getaway, if I may be so bold as to inquire? 😊
awesome work as always 😁
why not use a sacrificial piece on top of the arbor as you have below to minimize the need for deburring?
👍
Great video, love the milling machine and the Wera stuff. I'm always impressed with your attention to detail - never any it will do! I have just had to treat myself to one of those sets!
With a stepper motor driven leadscrew (electronic leadscrew) this and any other imaginable pitch is readily set up.
I know. I had an ELS on my old lathe. I prefer the reliability of a mechanical gearbox.
Stefan master!! Great work!
Very interesting Stefan,Thanks.
Another great video. Could you put a link in the description to where that socket set is sold. Thanks!
Nice work, but you forgot to look at what other pitches you can now do if you mix this new gear with your others. I cut a 31 or something like that and was surprised what other pitches i can now do with less than 3% error.
True :-)
But thats a problem for Future-Stefan. Present-Stefan is already five projects further.
Excellent content!
@8:02: "Messing" and "Neusilber", that translates beaitfully to "Mässing" and "Nysilver" in Swedish :)
Hey Stefan, thank you very much for all of your great video stuff!! A short question: The Wera tools, do you have a link? It seems to be a good solution for the things I'm working on. Thx!
Hello Stefan,
Thanks for another excellent tutorial. Those small Wera wrenches look really useful to me, do you have a Wera part number for them ?
Best Regards,
Graham from UK
@@grafixbyjorj Thank you so much for your efforts ! - I had no luck tracking that set down. Quite expensive in UK but it looks like a lifetime tool, so I think I'll go for it - Thanks once again !
Since I added the Clough42 electronic lead screw, I don't miss change gears at all. Have you considered that upgrade?
FP1 always top thx
You have 0.7mm gears so doubling/halving teeth count of one of those gears would make lead screw rotate 2x speed for 1.4mm pitch
Just curious Stefan, if you want to gain proficiency with the slotting head and the mill cutters for gear profile are so indifferent, why did you not grind a cutter and cut the gear teeth using the slotting head? You already had the head set up on the machine, only needed to mount the rotary head which you had to do anyway.
Whenever I see threading work on a lathe I’m tempted to replace my current one so I can finally follow in their footsteps (my current lathe is a rusty sherline someone was throwing out, and I’d rather get a more capable lathe rather than buying their change gear set and having to single point under hand power)
GHT book is my favorite machining book of all time. Ever finish the versatile dividing head? You started it as I recall.
No, the VDH is a sad story - I was almost done and I dropped the casting. A piece snapped off, and I am still annoyed. It sits in a box in the basement, probably rusting.
@@StefanGotteswinter nooooooo! That sucks. Im sure you did a beautiful job on it too.
@@sblack48 I think it was ok :) I would do things different today, and I learned a metric ton, so I dont hold to much grudge.
28:54 Nyehhh! I don't know... 😂😂 Good saying, good work, Stefan!