Hi there I've just seen this video. I do model RC and we use a different watt metor that is about $15 it is similar to the you mentioned 4.8 to 60v and 100A still only one direction may be worth a look
@jehugarcia If you used Anderson Power Poles for your connectors, you would need less adapters, PP connectors are hermaphroditic, can handle high power, and are the reason AUXCOM/EMCOM Ham Radio operators have standardized on them. +1 for finding a new multi-voltage wattmeter & a great video.
ToolkitRC products tend to run on the "less reliable" end of the spectrum. And that's already kind of a low bar considering they're RC products. I think it's worth just kitting ESP32 units with current/voltage sensors for DIY.
Hi. I had an experience the other day, which kind of confused me, but also was kind of cool. I had around 35 old 18650 batteries - some of the fake 5000mah ultra fire. They had been stored away on a roof since 2014 or 2015. As I expected these were probably dead I had nothing to lose. I put them all in parallel hand looked out if any of them got hot. Some of them did and they were taken out the rest had a charge around 4-4.1. After paralleling them I charged them to 4.2V and with all of them in parallel, I did a capacity test. All 30 did around 8.5AH in total - and I initially was thinking they had become e-waste. However, just for fun, I charged them in parallel this time they took 33AH to charge fully, with the last 24H going from a total charge rate of 2A slowly moving down in charging rate to 0.1A and finally 0.0A. A am doing a capacity test ATM with all of them together at 2AH and here at 15AH, I am still holding a good charge of almost 3.6V. What is up here? Am I experiencing a memory effect - I have heard this shouldn't exist in li-ion? Have you ever done a video on this effect?
Think of “no memory effect” as a marketing term which righty points out that lithium rechargeables don’t exhibit the dreaded NiCad (and NiMH?) memory effect many consumers are familiar with. Scientifically speaking there are physical things going on inside a battery and you can find studies on the web. The ion transfer back and forth causes expansion/contraction of anode/cathode materials either side of the separator. Storage especially w deep discharge causes more stress. I have salvaged Panasonic 18650 heaters that wouldn’t charge past 4.04 first try, but then after one discharge cycle charge up to 4.16 and have no heat. I wouldn’t put these in a project but after almost a year of constant use in flashlights they haven’t misbehaved. So something physically must have changed within them which had the effect of curing a partial short across the separator. In your case there could be some of this wake-up effect. But it also could be due to a result of your battery charger cutting off at some fixed mA rate. This will undercharge lower capacity cells as it will cut them off from enjoying their full constant voltage charging stage. But connected in parallel as a big giant cell it will charge them up fully.
Search eBay for digital boost converter 900w. It should have a fan, red led display and 4 buttons. I've been using these for years and they actually last. It won't give capacity but everything else is better in my opinion. Should be about $20. There is a custom function to allow it to start charging as soon as it has power.
The old discontinued meters from ebay have a nasty tendency for their voltage accuracy to drift badly when they got hot if you ran them near their rated current.
Can these be used in a solar application? 2- 40 packs = 3- 24V batteries? Charging on 4- 100W solar panels? Can you do a video for hooking up to solar for off grid RVing... 😊
Don't we want to test the individual cell before we put them into service ? And, what tester or procedures do we (or should we) use or preform ? Thank you.
Love the videos! Im a metal artist about to take my show on the road. Im just about done building a semi off-road live/work mobile welding studio. I want to run my 220v 30a TIG welder from my solar system. I have four 300w 36v panels on the roof of the vehicle, a Renogy Rover charge controller (60a). Im going to invest in a LiFePo battery bank of around 200ah, either 24v or 36v. I’ve been searching online to try to find an inverter to suit my needs and starting to realize I don’t have enough experience to set something like this up. What do you think would be the most cost effective inverter solution for me to get 220 for my welder and 110 for my other tools? Any guidance would be hugely appreciated. JM
your gonna need about a 8000 watt true sign wave inverter that has a 220 volt output and be prepared to take out a bank loan to purchase one. 200 amp hour lithium battery will need to be at least 600 to 800 amp hour if your going to be welding for very long and i mean more than one hour. Your welder is 6000 watts for a base line and you would be better off running a large generator to feed your welder and run a smaller solar set up for your basic needs for power.
Steven Rowland Thank you for the advice. I was hoping to do everything with silent power and save some space as well. But you’re right, those high-powered inverters are pricey. I was just wondering if there were stackable inverters that could do the job of a single unit. I weld intermittently while I’m sculpting… The longest continuous weld would be maybe 60 - 70 seconds. I’m sure it would be much cheaper and easier just to get a generator.
I can tell you that, after years of experimentation, good quality batteries don't get out of balance unless horribly abused. BMS comes from the days of scrap laptop batteries.
Hmmm... you got me thinking... what if the battery voltage doesn't reaches 4.2V full charge for the BMS to disconnect... then the BMS would allow pertetual charging unless the temperature is high... so it means that whatever device I replace with lithium must charge to 4.2 x number of cells in order to have teh BMS disconnect the battery pack... like UPS backup... anything that didn't have lithium battery as original equipment. Is this correct?
That brick is not a power supply, it's a charger. It will disconnect when it gets resistance. In general I don't use BMS. I use quality cells like these and have never seen my Sanyo/Panasonic 18650GA, or these batteries, get out of balance. The days of recycling abused laptop batteries are over.
Installing a BMS might be more than I want to tackle. Can I just use this with. The existing BMS on the original scooter pack to double the bluetti AC200 power generator
@@Loctran23 For this MH1 battery pack, they haven't figured out how to trigger the built in BMS to come on... Jehu does have another scooter battery pack where you can just hook it up and it works... the LGM26 scooter pack... half the price but the capacity is not as high as MH1
The BMS Cables just sense the voltage and doesn't have current for monitoring purposes. V=IR; If the current is close to 0 the voltage loss will be near 0 so the small difference in resistance in the bms wires will not have an effect.
True, up until the BMS starts diverting balancing current through those same leads. The effects of which will depend on BMS design/quality. I have seen some Asian BMS manufacturers recommend the use of constant lead length for cell wiring harness...
You can still find the other style current hall effect sensor on EBay. I am not sure if they are good enough for you but an example would be www.ebay.com/itm/VAC9010H-Hall-Coulombmeter-DC-90V-Voltmeter-Ammeter-LCD-Two-Way-Current-Voltage/254557091922?hash=item3b44c8f852:g:U~QAAOSw5uZehFnE I hope this helps. (There are others as well, but this one is most like the older one you have)
Ex-Navy Nuclear Engineer Trevor Jackson has developed a highly energy dense aluminium fuel cell. Why will the government not support bringing it to market? Today UK Column Live interviews Trevor Jackson, owner of Metalectrique, which has developed an aluminium fuel cell which has many applications from cars to homes, and also with many applications in the third world. Despite ticking all the boxes of the government's environmental policy, Metalectrique is apparently receiving no support.
Aluminum fuel cells can't be recharged, only recycled. They have some potential, but it's not nearly as convenient as a battery that can be recharged hundreds/thousands of times. "He figures the cost of using his battery at about 10 cents per mile. AAA's 2019 estimates of fuel cost per mile for conventionally powered vehicles range from 8.36 cents for a small sedan to 15.67 cents for a half-ton crew-cab 4-wheel-drive pickup. AAA puts the comparable cost per mile of a current electric vehicle at 3.65 cents and of a hybrid at 5.76 cents." How affordable? He figures the cost of using his battery at about 10 cents per mile. AAA's 2019 estimates of fuel cost per mile for conventionally powered vehicles range from 8.36 cents for a small sedan to 15.67 cents for a half-ton crew-cab 4-wheel-drive pickup. AAA puts the comparable cost per mile of a current electric vehicle at 3.65 cents and of a hybrid at 5.76 cents. So it would have to come down by 3x to match the 2019 cost of LiOn on a per-mile basis on top of swapping the battery every 1k miles or so. He needs to make it small enough to replace AA and AAA batteries. That's the only place I've seen a non-chargeable battery have a market. cloverly.com/blog/amazing-new-battery-has-just-one-little-problem/
Where are you buying the red and black nice wire that you are using.
Nice batteries Jehu. Great video just what I wanted to see. Thanks.
Hi there I've just seen this video. I do model RC and we use a different watt metor that is about $15 it is similar to the you mentioned 4.8 to 60v and 100A still only one direction may be worth a look
@jehugarcia If you used Anderson Power Poles for your connectors, you would need less adapters, PP connectors are hermaphroditic, can handle high power, and are the reason AUXCOM/EMCOM Ham Radio operators have standardized on them. +1 for finding a new multi-voltage wattmeter & a great video.
ToolkitRC products tend to run on the "less reliable" end of the spectrum. And that's already kind of a low bar considering they're RC products. I think it's worth just kitting ESP32 units with current/voltage sensors for DIY.
Hi. I had an experience the other day, which kind of confused me, but also was kind of cool. I had around 35 old 18650 batteries - some of the fake 5000mah ultra fire. They had been stored away on a roof since 2014 or 2015. As I expected these were probably dead I had nothing to lose. I put them all in parallel hand looked out if any of them got hot. Some of them did and they were taken out the rest had a charge around 4-4.1. After paralleling them I charged them to 4.2V and with all of them in parallel, I did a capacity test. All 30 did around 8.5AH in total - and I initially was thinking they had become e-waste. However, just for fun, I charged them in parallel this time they took 33AH to charge fully, with the last 24H going from a total charge rate of 2A slowly moving down in charging rate to 0.1A and finally 0.0A. A am doing a capacity test ATM with all of them together at 2AH and here at 15AH, I am still holding a good charge of almost 3.6V.
What is up here? Am I experiencing a memory effect - I have heard this shouldn't exist in li-ion? Have you ever done a video on this effect?
Think of “no memory effect” as a marketing term which righty points out that lithium rechargeables don’t exhibit the dreaded NiCad (and NiMH?) memory effect many consumers are familiar with.
Scientifically speaking there are physical things going on inside a battery and you can find studies on the web. The ion transfer back and forth causes expansion/contraction of anode/cathode materials either side of the separator. Storage especially w deep discharge causes more stress. I have salvaged Panasonic 18650 heaters that wouldn’t charge past 4.04 first try, but then after one discharge cycle charge up to 4.16 and have no heat. I wouldn’t put these in a project but after almost a year of constant use in flashlights they haven’t misbehaved. So something physically must have changed within them which had the effect of curing a partial short across the separator.
In your case there could be some of this wake-up effect. But it also could be due to a result of your battery charger cutting off at some fixed mA rate. This will undercharge lower capacity cells as it will cut them off from enjoying their full constant voltage charging stage. But connected in parallel as a big giant cell it will charge them up fully.
Search eBay for digital boost converter 900w. It should have a fan, red led display and 4 buttons. I've been using these for years and they actually last. It won't give capacity but everything else is better in my opinion. Should be about $20. There is a custom function to allow it to start charging as soon as it has power.
Good morning! Luv the early morn show.
Do you have any fully built batteries for sale ?
The old discontinued meters from ebay have a nasty tendency for their voltage accuracy to drift badly when they got hot if you ran them near their rated current.
I found a DROK brand on amazon for a Charge-Discharge monitor. Looks to be the same type of unit.
1:34.. Why is the Red wire (which is on the + side of the XT connector) connected to Battery Minus of the pack ??
Can these be used in a solar application?
2- 40 packs = 3- 24V batteries? Charging on 4- 100W solar panels?
Can you do a video for hooking up to solar for off grid RVing... 😊
Don't we want to test the individual cell before we put them into service ? And, what tester or procedures do we (or should we) use or preform ? Thank you.
Love the videos!
Im a metal artist about to take my show on the road. Im just about done building a semi off-road live/work mobile welding studio. I want to run my 220v 30a TIG welder from my solar system. I have four 300w 36v panels on the roof of the vehicle, a Renogy Rover charge controller (60a). Im going to invest in a LiFePo battery bank of around 200ah, either 24v or 36v. I’ve been searching online to try to find an inverter to suit my needs and starting to realize I don’t have enough experience to set something like this up. What do you think would be the most cost effective inverter solution for me to get 220 for my welder and 110 for my other tools? Any guidance would be hugely appreciated.
JM
your gonna need about a 8000 watt true sign wave inverter that has a 220 volt output and be prepared to take out a bank loan to purchase one. 200 amp hour lithium battery will need to be at least 600 to 800 amp hour if your going to be welding for very long and i mean more than one hour. Your welder is 6000 watts for a base line and you would be better off running a large generator to feed your welder and run a smaller solar set up for your basic needs for power.
Steven Rowland Thank you for the advice. I was hoping to do everything with silent power and save some space as well. But you’re right, those high-powered inverters are pricey. I was just wondering if there were stackable inverters that could do the job of a single unit. I weld intermittently while I’m sculpting… The longest continuous weld would be maybe 60 - 70 seconds. I’m sure it would be much cheaper and easier just to get a generator.
@@josephmedina6445 seems like your situation needs a generator. Do you tig or MIG?
I'm glad you have come around to using bms. Building battery bombs just wasn't cool.
I can tell you that, after years of experimentation, good quality batteries don't get out of balance unless horribly abused. BMS comes from the days of scrap laptop batteries.
So many bombs, so few explosions.
Just sent you a email about the bms board with a photo
I ordered some of those batteries should be here tomorrow but I don't need that bms
Hey! People want to see everything - everything. I want to see the soldering process - all that is done to get to where your going.
I saw about two years ago an e-bike powered by Dewalt batteries with the new EGO batteries that home depot carries could a person build an e-bike
Where is the power output for this
i wish there was an option of charger/bms that would only go to 90% (to preserve longevity of cells) and still balance
the bms on this battery pack only charges to 4 volts per cell.
Hmmm... you got me thinking... what if the battery voltage doesn't reaches 4.2V full charge for the BMS to disconnect... then the BMS would allow pertetual charging unless the temperature is high... so it means that whatever device I replace with lithium must charge to 4.2 x number of cells in order to have teh BMS disconnect the battery pack... like UPS backup... anything that didn't have lithium battery as original equipment. Is this correct?
That's right. You wouldn't want to use it in that kind of application as continuous trickle charging is bad for lithium.
That brick is not a power supply, it's a charger. It will disconnect when it gets resistance. In general I don't use BMS. I use quality cells like these and have never seen my Sanyo/Panasonic 18650GA, or these batteries, get out of balance. The days of recycling abused laptop batteries are over.
Installing a BMS might be more than I want to tackle. Can I just use this with. The existing BMS on the original scooter pack to double the bluetti AC200 power generator
@@Loctran23 For this MH1 battery pack, they haven't figured out how to trigger the built in BMS to come on... Jehu does have another scooter battery pack where you can just hook it up and it works... the LGM26 scooter pack... half the price but the capacity is not as high as MH1
I know that you should not cat the bms cables in a different length it will give fouls result.
Am I correct?
The BMS Cables just sense the voltage and doesn't have current for monitoring purposes. V=IR; If the current is close to 0 the voltage loss will be near 0 so the small difference in resistance in the bms wires will not have an effect.
Thank you
True, up until the BMS starts diverting balancing current through those same leads. The effects of which will depend on BMS design/quality. I have seen some Asian BMS manufacturers recommend the use of constant lead length for cell wiring harness...
I found that meter for sale on Amazon again.
You can still find the other style current hall effect sensor on EBay. I am not sure if they are good enough for you but an example would be www.ebay.com/itm/VAC9010H-Hall-Coulombmeter-DC-90V-Voltmeter-Ammeter-LCD-Two-Way-Current-Voltage/254557091922?hash=item3b44c8f852:g:U~QAAOSw5uZehFnE
I hope this helps. (There are others as well, but this one is most like the older one you have)
How man ah did the battery pack produce?
420 I think
I bought my second batch of these today. Each cell is delivering AT LEAST 3.2AH and, within packs, they are very precisely matched.
@@gerardjachymiak5822 Its a 10s4p pack. Therefore 4 x 3.2 = 12.8 AH.
Thank you Ted Hancock.
Ted Hancock - Is it 12.8 Ah x 10 = 128 Ah
Omazo?
I really didn't like that power sensor display
Ex-Navy Nuclear Engineer Trevor Jackson has developed a highly energy dense aluminium fuel cell. Why will the government not support bringing it to market?
Today UK Column Live interviews Trevor Jackson, owner of Metalectrique, which has developed an aluminium fuel cell which has many applications from cars to homes, and also with many applications in the third world.
Despite ticking all the boxes of the government's environmental policy, Metalectrique is apparently receiving no support.
Aluminum fuel cells can't be recharged, only recycled. They have some potential, but it's not nearly as convenient as a battery that can be recharged hundreds/thousands of times.
"He figures the cost of using his battery at about 10 cents per mile. AAA's 2019 estimates of fuel cost per mile for conventionally powered vehicles range from 8.36 cents for a small sedan to 15.67 cents for a half-ton crew-cab 4-wheel-drive pickup. AAA puts the comparable cost per mile of a current electric vehicle at 3.65 cents and of a hybrid at 5.76 cents."
How affordable? He figures the cost of using his battery at about 10 cents per mile. AAA's 2019 estimates of fuel cost per mile for conventionally powered vehicles range from 8.36 cents for a small sedan to 15.67 cents for a half-ton crew-cab 4-wheel-drive pickup. AAA puts the comparable cost per mile of a current electric vehicle at 3.65 cents and of a hybrid at 5.76 cents.
So it would have to come down by 3x to match the 2019 cost of LiOn on a per-mile basis on top of swapping the battery every 1k miles or so.
He needs to make it small enough to replace AA and AAA batteries. That's the only place I've seen a non-chargeable battery have a market.
cloverly.com/blog/amazing-new-battery-has-just-one-little-problem/
@@JoelKleppinger need to see that guy trevor buddy hes seriously clever.
And aluminium ca be recycled if its scrubbed of oxides
Sir send me the link from where I can buy it in all the cells
👍👌
Lol yeah morning 🌄
omazon lol