This video was so helpful, I'm trying to work out what to do with my lath and lime plaster ceilings, two bedrooms, quite a lot of cracks and one hole but not dreadful so I was wondering about plastering over. A plasterer recommending overboarding then skimming, but a plumber I had over on the same day gave me the fear of life saying this was a "compromise" and that I should take down the whole ceiling...! Very reassurning to know that overboarding is a common solution. Thanks.
Over boarding is not a compromise it's a tried & tested method. Rarely theses days will plasterers pull down an old lath & plaster ceiling ..not only will you be exposing all tenants to potentially harmful dust but you are making a job harder & longer than it needs to be by removing it 👍
Awesome work m8!! Just a tip which I’ve picked up… find the joists either side of the room and ping a chalk line across the room for the centre of the joists!!💪🏻💪🏻
What if the property is old and plaster contains asbestos? Would it still require an asbestos licenced contractor I.e., would the overboading disturb asbestos? Thanks
@@janewrin1830why did he overboard it. What was the issue ? How do you take down a lath and plaster ceiling and leave the cornice intact ? Do you leave the lath on ? Cutting around the cornice through the lath aswell as the plaster would this weaken and potentially fall down ? How was cornice attached back in the day to the ceiling ?
Hi, Thanks for watching 👍 You should be able to follow the same steps highlighted in the video the only possible drawback being that on occasion plasterers would over lap the laths in places before applying the plaster which would level out the surface.. if plaster has been removed it's possible the surface is now less flat than it was when that plaster was on. In this situation if maybe better to use a 12.5 mm board when going over the laths as they are more rigid & less likely to follow the contours of overlapped joints in the laths. I hope this helps Stuart Trowel talk
My wall plaster was crumbling so I've ended up stripping away all of the plaster until only the lath remains. Can I do the same as in this video but just without the existing plaster?
Just viewed one of these and will be the first one I do. The plaster seems to have fibres in it. Is that the traditional plaster hair and will it be ok to just board straight over? No issues with breathability? House built around 1930’s
Hi Daniel yes if it's lath & plaster it'll likely contain animal hair. Lime built properties only require breathability on outside facing walls not on interior walls & ceilings so fine to overboard 👍
Great video; really informative. My 1925 ceiling is lath & plaster over boarded…and quite a bit of it has come down. I know it’s a horrible job, but looking at the cracks & the fact that more is coming off, I’m minded to take the plaster & laths down before plaster boarding…overkill or good idea? Thanks for advice!
Hi, it depends how much has come down sometimes we can remove the damaged section , infill it then overboard . However if your ceiling has been overboarded previously then I'd be inclined to strip back to joists
Hi Henry, Yes it is possible to cross batten the ceiling then plasterboard. All depends why the ceiling is sagging, some sag due to water damage or where the plaster is coming away from the laths.. I've seen a few where the actual joists are bowed due to age in which case battens are a good option packing out the battens to level up the ceiling before boarding 👍
Hi Dean, Pipes & cables are usually situated under the floorboards at the top of the joist often running through the centre also. It's rare for them to be running beneath near the laths
I've took down coving and my ceiling has no plasterboard around the edges. Why is this? It's a 1930s house. I mean it's not a bad thing as I can see where the joist are. I was thinking I'll need to pack these gaps on the joist with some timber so the new boards don't bend at the ends?
@@troweltalk2719 hi, would you recommend 9 or 12.5 mm board. I only say as the 12.5mm board has a higher tensile strength. Unless the 9 mm is for ease of application.
As far as my knowledge goes this property would be a number of decades behind as asbestos was only really used in artex products between late fifties upto the late nineties predominantly in artex and this amount is less than 2% (white asbestos) i have never heard of asbestos being using in in horse hair lime plaster before but I could of course be wrong
@@troweltalk2719 true mate. You'd know more than me as it is your profession, im doing a similar job for my own place at the moment. May i ask you, would a thin 3.6 sheets of ply not be a less messy job ie wouldnt have to plaster skim after just paint?
@@KdeB The problem would be hiding the joints they will likely crack also a thin sheet of ply will show every lump & bump unless the ceiling is quite flat. To be honest it'd look awful doing this
Overboard, effectively suffocating the building increasing the likelihood of damp and mould and respiratory problems.... Plasterboard is brilliant for modern houses, I don't see they have any use in properties with age, especially lime plaster/mortar houses.?
@@troweltalk2719 Hi. The lime materials allow the house to breathe, replacing the lath and plaster with modern gypsum effectively stops that, which in turn could lead to further issues down the line. Good job though!
Just bought a house that has all the rooms with this devilish shit... The people before were even nice enough to go and stick boards directly over it because they didn't want to get the stuff down, spent three weeks ripping it all out, black dust everywhere, and millions of nails also.
Personally I would have -lay a membrane on the floor so no derby falls below floorboards - remove all the old plaster, and a few strips of wood lath between each joist. - Clean the ceiling to a good standard, removing as much dust and old plaster keys as possible - remove plaster on the edges of the ceiling ready to slot in new plaster board - install wool noise insulation between the joists through the gaps from removing a few laths earlier. - install 12mm board making sure I use as large a board as possible with the fewest joints - tape up joints and edges - 2 coats of multi finish done to a reflective finish. 9mm board always sags after a while. It’s just easier to install that’s the truth, it has no advantage over 12mm. I leave the wood lath, it reduces echo and noise.
Hi, The job spec will be dependent on customer requirements, We will be uploading a video where we remove all lath & plaster from a ceiling & add timbers we will explain why & show how we do this. As far as 9.5mm boards sagging I have been overboarding for 20years & no sagging has occurred on any jobs during this time inc my own properties. Ceilings should be flat with no sagging before overboarding. There's a few reasons a ceiling will sag, Inc water damage, excess weight pushing onto ceiling, timbers spanned too far apart, lack of fixings or aging/ structural issues such as ceiling joists bowing.
@@AbdulSalam-xe4md how can wood lath reduce noise? How is it easier to put up a 9ml board ? An if your going to moan about sagging why didn't you use 15ml.
@@israeladesanya4596 Wood is a great absorber of noise and they increase the thickness of the ceiling. A thicker layer generally is more insulating. They also act like keys muffling vibration. 9.5mm board is obviously easier as it’s lighter, surely that’s common sense. Have you lifted a 12.5 vs a 9.5 mm board above your head? 12.5 mm board is ideal costs and availability wise if you look at the tensile strength information from most manufacturers. 15mm does have a higher resistance to sagging but not by much. 12.5 and 15 mm board have an almost identical 220-240Nm breaking load, compared to 160NM for 9.5mm
This video was so helpful, I'm trying to work out what to do with my lath and lime plaster ceilings, two bedrooms, quite a lot of cracks and one hole but not dreadful so I was wondering about plastering over. A plasterer recommending overboarding then skimming, but a plumber I had over on the same day gave me the fear of life saying this was a "compromise" and that I should take down the whole ceiling...! Very reassurning to know that overboarding is a common solution. Thanks.
Over boarding is not a compromise it's a tried & tested method. Rarely theses days will plasterers pull down an old lath & plaster ceiling ..not only will you be exposing all tenants to potentially harmful dust but you are making a job harder & longer than it needs to be by removing it 👍
Awesome work m8!! Just a tip which I’ve picked up… find the joists either side of the room and ping a chalk line across the room for the centre of the joists!!💪🏻💪🏻
Really well informed video, thanks for sharing. Interesting that you didn't use any adhesive as well. Thanks for sharing
What if the property is old and plaster contains asbestos? Would it still require an asbestos licenced contractor I.e., would the overboading disturb asbestos? Thanks
Thanks for that, I enjoyed it all.
I always go for the chalk line
This video helps a lot thanks.
I always take them down and then board, otherwise you're adding excessive weight to the joists and storing problems for the next team/owner.
Always take what down?
@@Hew.Jarsol The laths and plaster ceiling, to attach the new boards directly to the joists. Occasionally some customers won't have it, but rarely.
@@janewrin1830why did he overboard it. What was the issue ?
How do you take down a lath and plaster ceiling and leave the cornice intact ? Do you leave the lath on ? Cutting around the cornice through the lath aswell as the plaster would this weaken and potentially fall down ? How was cornice attached back in the day to the ceiling ?
12.5mm is much better and less bendy. Each to they’re own. I like to fix into joists too. 👍
Hi thanks for the great advice & tipps
could you please advise on how to overboard onto lath with the plaster being removed as too many cracks in it.
Hi, Thanks for watching 👍
You should be able to follow the same steps highlighted in the video the only possible drawback being that on occasion plasterers would over lap the laths in places before applying the plaster which would level out the surface.. if plaster has been removed it's possible the surface is now less flat than it was when that plaster was on. In this situation if maybe better to use a 12.5 mm board when going over the laths as they are more rigid & less likely to follow the contours of overlapped joints in the laths.
I hope this helps
Stuart
Trowel talk
if I replaster lathes and plaster ceilings i use polyester fibres in the mix stops cracks a lot stronger
Most of the ones im working on are all bowing and have water damage should I just take them all down?
@@DavyKrankit
Depending on how bad the bow is here is a method to square up the joists 👍
th-cam.com/video/s59TT0E8Cm8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=djV3k4kY9N_d4bcG
Well explained Stu
I removed the sandy plaster and left the little woods then boarded it.
can you just plaster old overboards if their is cracks ?
Thank you
My wall plaster was crumbling so I've ended up stripping away all of the plaster until only the lath remains. Can I do the same as in this video but just without the existing plaster?
Yes you can overboard directly over the laths 👍
Just viewed one of these and will be the first one I do. The plaster seems to have fibres in it. Is that the traditional plaster hair and will it be ok to just board straight over? No issues with breathability? House built around 1930’s
Hi Daniel yes if it's lath & plaster it'll likely contain animal hair. Lime built properties only require breathability on outside facing walls not on interior walls & ceilings so fine to overboard 👍
@@troweltalk2719 brilliant, thanks for taking the time to reply. Great channel, keep them coming 👍🏻
Great video; really informative. My 1925 ceiling is lath & plaster over boarded…and quite a bit of it has come down. I know it’s a horrible job, but looking at the cracks & the fact that more is coming off, I’m minded to take the plaster & laths down before plaster boarding…overkill or good idea? Thanks for advice!
Hi, it depends how much has come down sometimes we can remove the damaged section , infill it then overboard . However if your ceiling has been overboarded previously then I'd be inclined to strip back to joists
Never used the small sheets of plaster board always struggled with the 8x4s. Any good ?.
Hi,
Yes the 6x3 sheets are lightweight & easy to handle on your own when overboarding ceilings 👍
@@troweltalk2719 I might try them
Does 1930s plaster have asbestos in?
If the ceiling is sagging can it be lifted up to the joists by screwing up battens and then fixing the plasterboard to them?
Hi Henry,
Yes it is possible to cross batten the ceiling then plasterboard. All depends why the ceiling is sagging, some sag due to water damage or where the plaster is
coming away from the laths.. I've seen a few where the actual joists are bowed due to age in which case battens are a good option packing out the battens to level up the ceiling before boarding 👍
Is there much danger of hitting any pipes or cables that maybe above the ceiling?
Hi Dean,
Pipes & cables are usually situated under the floorboards at the top of the joist often running through the centre also. It's rare for them to be running beneath near the laths
Good video pal, but we never ever leave an over hang... Every joint onto a joist...
Horses for courses 👍
TROWEL TALK I’m doing a ceiling soon old lathe and plaster , joist running length wise 🤷♂️. Was going to batten first so I can catch every edge ?
@@NathanHolle That's a good option mate usually we can overboard them direct as shown in the video
I've took down coving and my ceiling has no plasterboard around the edges. Why is this? It's a 1930s house. I mean it's not a bad thing as I can see where the joist are.
I was thinking I'll need to pack these gaps on the joist with some timber so the new boards don't bend at the ends?
Yes you could put some off cut plasterboards in 👍
Great stuff thank you 👍🏻
Can you put drywall over plaster without tearing out?? Help
Hi Serie,
Thanks for watching yes you can 👍 We call it over boarding
You want to get 25mm grip minimum into joist or stud for wood
10mm in metal
Yes mate that's right 9mm board + 12mm plaster + 4mm lath , gives us 25mm into joist give or take
@@troweltalk2719 just general rule of thumb 25mm plus whatever before the wood
My question to that one is why do they sell 25mm screws??
@@troweltalk2719 hi, would you recommend 9 or 12.5 mm board. I only say as the 12.5mm board has a higher tensile strength. Unless the 9 mm is for ease of application.
Nice video. Please consider, maybe, no music in subsequent videos.
Fair comment I'll take it on board
Or use lime plaster?
Buy a pinpointer metal detector, saves bashing more holes, it pick up on the lath nails.
are you not scared of asbestos being in the lath & plaster as you check to see where the joists are?
As far as my knowledge goes this property would be a number of decades behind as asbestos was only really used in artex products between late fifties upto the late nineties predominantly in artex and this amount is less than 2% (white asbestos) i have never heard of asbestos being using in in horse hair lime plaster before but I could of course be wrong
@@troweltalk2719 true mate. You'd know more than me as it is your profession, im doing a similar job for my own place at the moment. May i ask you, would a thin 3.6 sheets of ply not be a less messy job ie wouldnt have to plaster skim after just paint?
@@KdeB The problem would be hiding the joints they will likely crack also a thin sheet of ply will show every lump & bump unless the ceiling is quite flat. To be honest it'd look awful doing this
Overboard, effectively suffocating the building increasing the likelihood of damp and mould and respiratory problems....
Plasterboard is brilliant for modern houses, I don't see they have any use in properties with age, especially lime plaster/mortar houses.?
Hi Jean,
When you say suffocating could you elaborate. Most jobs we do the ceilings are papered + painted with silk.
@@troweltalk2719 Hi.
The lime materials allow the house to breathe, replacing the lath and plaster with modern gypsum effectively stops that, which in turn could lead to further issues down the line.
Good job though!
Just bought a house that has all the rooms with this devilish shit... The people before were even nice enough to go and stick boards directly over it because they didn't want to get the stuff down, spent three weeks ripping it all out, black dust everywhere, and millions of nails also.
Personally I would have
-lay a membrane on the floor so no derby falls below floorboards
- remove all the old plaster, and a few strips of wood lath between each joist.
- Clean the ceiling to a good standard, removing as much dust and old plaster keys as possible
- remove plaster on the edges of the ceiling ready to slot in new plaster board
- install wool noise insulation between the joists through the gaps from removing a few laths earlier.
- install 12mm board making sure I use as large a board as possible with the fewest joints
- tape up joints and edges
- 2 coats of multi finish done to a reflective finish.
9mm board always sags after a while. It’s just easier to install that’s the truth, it has no advantage over 12mm.
I leave the wood lath, it reduces echo and noise.
Hi,
The job spec will be dependent on customer requirements, We will be uploading a video where we remove all lath & plaster from a ceiling & add timbers we will explain why & show how we do this.
As far as 9.5mm boards sagging I have been overboarding for 20years & no sagging has occurred on any jobs during this time inc my own properties. Ceilings should be flat with no sagging before overboarding. There's a few reasons a ceiling will sag, Inc water damage, excess weight pushing onto ceiling, timbers spanned too far apart, lack of fixings or aging/ structural issues such as ceiling joists bowing.
Course you would Abdul
@@israeladesanya4596 Yes, I did my whole house like this.
Thanks for your most constructive of comments…
@@AbdulSalam-xe4md how can wood lath reduce noise? How is it easier to put up a 9ml board ?
An if your going to moan about sagging why didn't you use 15ml.
@@israeladesanya4596
Wood is a great absorber of noise and they increase the thickness of the ceiling. A thicker layer generally is more insulating. They also act like keys muffling vibration.
9.5mm board is obviously easier as it’s lighter, surely that’s common sense. Have you lifted a 12.5 vs a 9.5 mm board above your head?
12.5 mm board is ideal costs and availability wise if you look at the tensile strength information from most manufacturers. 15mm does have a higher resistance to sagging but not by much. 12.5 and 15 mm board have an almost identical 220-240Nm breaking load, compared to 160NM for 9.5mm
Echo or something, can't understand video, also poor quality, can't see well.
Should never use 9mm board for ceilings too flimsy always use 12.5mm
Most sheet materials are flimsy until they are screwed down
@@troweltalk2719 you can’t use 9mm board for ceilings