You’re a really talented teacher and effective communicator! Loving your videos. Giving us only the most important info, not rambling, clearly very knowledgeable. Thank you for sharing your knowledge !
I just watched another video and they did it for 3 walls but not the 4th wall (against the outside) or the ceiling. Not sure what the rhyme or reason is or if it even matters honestly. The wall that was against the outside, they did staple plastic insulation to the studs before drywalling.
Hey there, I was wondering if you are noticing any issues after insulating your outside walls? I see a lot of builders and restored house builders talk about makign sure you dont block the air from running down older houses. they say that you need to either seal the outside of the house or you can use this egg crate type of things to keep the insulations from the wall and allow a barrier for the wood to breath and dry for when it rains. Let me know if you have any leaks and if you noticing rot happening yet or not.
1892 house here. I have heard the same thing. I'm gonna install without the plastic insulation. The lower two floors get extremely humid in the summer, I think that moisture needs as many paths to escape as possible. If you were running an industrial dehumidifier 24/7 in the summer it probably wouldn't matter. I have considered that. Bigger electric bill but would save much more on the gas bills Dec/Jan/Feb
This project is almost exactly what I need to do for my kids' room. However, I also need to replace the two old windows in there, including the frames/trim that have lead in them. Do you have any experience completely removing old windows out and replacing them?
I have a house built in 1900 that I'm hoping to start demo on. This is the first I have seen of anyone leaving the lathe up. I see in the comments that you said this was because of the trim. The original trim was the whole reason I bought the house. My issue is that I need to insulate the entire second floor and add electrical as there is one outlet and one light switch for the whole 3 bedrooms and they are both in the hallway. Would you still suggest still leaving the lathe up or just trimming down the trim if needed?
I left the lath on the ceiling but took it down on the walls. Then I tacking in the trip going vertical. If you dont do that when you put up the drywall the trim will stick out the length of the width of the lathe. Does that make sense? I love old trim and I try everything I can to save it.
Sorry to bump a video that’s two years old. Did you have to install blocking around the edges to have something to attach the ceiling drywall to? Or try to drive diagonally into the top plate close to the edge? Or does the wall drywall going in under it hold it up?
Awesome video, Im looking at a house that's from 1900, but it's plaster and lath, I'd want to put drywall up in a few rooms at least, but wonder, Is there anyway to put the drywall ontop of the horsehair plaster stuff? Or should I remove all the plaster and put up drywall on the lath
I have never installed drywall over plaster. I have seen done thou. For example in my kitchen someone drywalled over the plaster with 1/4 drywall. Sounds easy but not sure how well it would hold up. Also, keep in mind if you drywall over the plaster, you will need to remove and resize all of the trim and baseboard in the room. Also, if you want to insult behind the wall it is easier to remove everything. Here is a video that did on removing plaster: th-cam.com/video/ivv89VcBA3s/w-d-xo.html
Thanks. I only ripped off the lathe where I wanted to place insulation. The reason I left it on was so the 1/2 inch drywall would line up with were the plaster was. Does that make sense?
@@KletteTech it is the most awesome simple tool. would have saved you some time on those marks. and you could have gone all the way across once. And you can use to mark studs/joists to make life that much easier
Awesome work. Found your video because I'm about to tackle my own house. You're WAY more experienced than I am but I have enough confidence to take on my project. Would you mind estimating about how much money it took to insulate and install the drywall in that room? Just trying to get an idea even though I'm sure my price will more since it's 2022 and inflation is kicking our ass.
Great question. But plaster is about 1/2 inch. So if I used the 1/2 drywall the trim will hopefully line up. if you remove the lath. The trim will not matchup. Very frustrating to fix.
@@coreynalepka5904 Yes but two things can cause a problem. Doors and windows. The jams will stick out and trim wont line up drywall. There are a couple things you can do. One plane down the jams or push out trim with an extra piece of the behind it. Planing the jab down looks the best. Does that make sense?
@@KletteTech planing it down seems to make the most sense. Not sure I'm following you on the trim advice. Thank you for the quick response. My girlfriend and I are bidding on our first home. It was built in 1870 and we will be removing all the bad plaster (ALL THE PLASTER LOL) before we move in. We appreciate these quality videos.
At first I only removed the outer trim. I did not want to take remove all the trim with the risk of damaging it. I also thought it would be more work. I ended up taking all the trim down except the around the closet and door because I needed to insulate it. The door and closet are not on outside walls. So I did not have to worry about air drifting through.
Great vid, thanks so much! I'm thinking of buying a project house, it's 100 years old, and they had started renovation, then somebody lost their job or something. The house (huge, 2800 sq ft) was stripped down to the lath - no insulation. I'm wondering if it might be easier to just go ahead and drywall over the lath, then blow in insulation from above down between the studs, rather than having to remove all the lath and staple in the insulation. Would remove any lath necessary for new wiring, of course. Also, how the heck do you get drywall up to a 20' ceiling? Any thoughts? Thanks again!
Great questions. I would think think blowing insulation in would work. But I might try one room first. 20' ceiling. That is a really high ceiling. I would rent a lift.
Depends where you are. if you have HUMID summers you may want to avoid so the humidity has more avenues to escape and just run up the gas bills a bit more in winter. Will save you from humidity damage. Otherwise you will have to run a humidifier 24/7 in the summer
Hello, so I can leave the laff up and drywall over it....I thought I had to tear the laff down. Also, I wasn't going to insulate the bathroom...is that ok? Or is it a must do?
I left it up in the inside walls. A couple people have told me I should not have but I have never had a problem. If it is an outside wall I would recommend insulating the walls. But is also depends on where you live. Hope this helps
@@MarriageandtheSingleLady They said it might my the cracks in the tape job later. But I have a wall I did 12 years ago and it has not cracked. If I was in northern Ohio I would insulate. On the southern tip I would still consider it. But might not be as important.
was wondering the same thing, what's the disadvantage of more creases and just filling them with puddy, or foam ? seems you could mount 4x4 pieces much faster.
I have an older house they used plaster for most of the walls and ceilings. Would it be best to stick with plaster or switch it up for drywall? Also I'm new to doing this, I've never done any type of work like this ever.. what would you suggest? My house is about 100yrs old but partially renovated. I wanted to upgrade the older parts of the home.
If the plaster is in good shape I would leave it up there. Mine was in real bad shape and I wanted to insult behind it. My current house is a mixture of drywall and plaster. Sometimes in the same room.
Back in the day before drywall people would put thin pieces of wood and plaster over it. Its nailed into the joist. So I assume he is following where the nails are to find the studs
I mention in the video that I did not remove the lathe because of the old insulations that is up there. The mess would have been horrible and we are living in the house. Also, I plan on blowing insulation in attic in the future. Might as well leave what is up there.
Dont you hate when you go on a big job where the guys hanging the rock are not the guys taping it. You are the guy taping it. And they do a loose and sloppy job because they dont have to tape it and they are A holes lol. This has happened almost evetime i go to mud a big job. And i spotted my first nail as a kid in 1977. When you walk on a job and see nice tight joints you know the hanger and taper is one and the same. No matter if youv been doing this for 40 yrs its a good idea to watch these vids for new products and tips and tricks. Thanks for making it.
I have the same type of old house, and there are multiple cracks on the ceiling. In this case, can I install additional layer of dry wall on top of old ceiling? (I don't want to remove old ceiling) Do you think if this would work?
Idk this giys reasons, but in my city, I think I have to have it inspected if I take the lap board off. I want everything above & beyond code anyway, but the inspectors in my town are notorious for being mofos.
Very satisfying. I am looking for one to do my entire upstairs
Go for it!
Do you have the name of those little yellow tabs you used in the closet? What are they clipping on to?
Great job man! I will be rewatching this in a couple weeks when I start on my house
Good luck!
Did you have to remove all the window trim?
You’re a really talented teacher and effective communicator! Loving your videos. Giving us only the most important info, not rambling, clearly very knowledgeable. Thank you for sharing your knowledge !
Wow, thank you! That was exactly what I was going for when I made these videos. That feedback was helpful and kind. Thanks
Why didn't you remove the old lathes before putting the dry wall up? Every house I have worked in we have always removed it.
That is the question I was going to ask. Cheers
I just watched another video and they did it for 3 walls but not the 4th wall (against the outside) or the ceiling. Not sure what the rhyme or reason is or if it even matters honestly. The wall that was against the outside, they did staple plastic insulation to the studs before drywalling.
Hey there, I was wondering if you are noticing any issues after insulating your outside walls? I see a lot of builders and restored house builders talk about makign sure you dont block the air from running down older houses. they say that you need to either seal the outside of the house or you can use this egg crate type of things to keep the insulations from the wall and allow a barrier for the wood to breath and dry for when it rains. Let me know if you have any leaks and if you noticing rot happening yet or not.
I have not had any problems and the room is so much more comfortable.
1892 house here. I have heard the same thing. I'm gonna install without the plastic insulation. The lower two floors get extremely humid in the summer, I think that moisture needs as many paths to escape as possible. If you were running an industrial dehumidifier 24/7 in the summer it probably wouldn't matter. I have considered that. Bigger electric bill but would save much more on the gas bills Dec/Jan/Feb
This project is almost exactly what I need to do for my kids' room. However, I also need to replace the two old windows in there, including the frames/trim that have lead in them. Do you have any experience completely removing old windows out and replacing them?
Yes I have done a couple houses. It is really not that bad of a job. Once you have done two you will be an expert.
I have a house built in 1900 that I'm hoping to start demo on. This is the first I have seen of anyone leaving the lathe up. I see in the comments that you said this was because of the trim. The original trim was the whole reason I bought the house. My issue is that I need to insulate the entire second floor and add electrical as there is one outlet and one light switch for the whole 3 bedrooms and they are both in the hallway. Would you still suggest still leaving the lathe up or just trimming down the trim if needed?
I left the lath on the ceiling but took it down on the walls. Then I tacking in the trip going vertical. If you dont do that when you put up the drywall the trim will stick out the length of the width of the lathe. Does that make sense? I love old trim and I try everything I can to save it.
Please tell me you are not leaving the old lath up there, how are you even going to find the rafters to screw in the drywall
Benefits for keeping the lathe?
Sorry to bump a video that’s two years old. Did you have to install blocking around the edges to have something to attach the ceiling drywall to? Or try to drive diagonally into the top plate close to the edge? Or does the wall drywall going in under it hold it up?
Awesome video, Im looking at a house that's from 1900, but it's plaster and lath, I'd want to put drywall up in a few rooms at least, but wonder, Is there anyway to put the drywall ontop of the horsehair plaster stuff? Or should I remove all the plaster and put up drywall on the lath
I have never installed drywall over plaster. I have seen done thou. For example in my kitchen someone drywalled over the plaster with 1/4 drywall. Sounds easy but not sure how well it would hold up. Also, keep in mind if you drywall over the plaster, you will need to remove and resize all of the trim and baseboard in the room. Also, if you want to insult behind the wall it is easier to remove everything. Here is a video that did on removing plaster: th-cam.com/video/ivv89VcBA3s/w-d-xo.html
This is amazing. Love your videos! QQ: was there a reason you didn't rip out the lathe on some walls? (Maybe you mentioned it and I missed it.)
Thanks. I only ripped off the lathe where I wanted to place insulation. The reason I left it on was so the 1/2 inch drywall would line up with were the plaster was. Does that make sense?
Have you ever heard of the “ chalk line”?
Never tried that.
@@KletteTech it is the most awesome simple tool. would have saved you some time on those marks. and you could have gone all the way across once. And you can use to mark studs/joists to make life that much easier
Chalk line is a must when working with and cutting any type of paneling.
😂😂😂
Should replace this type of framing?
i use chalk lines for taper cuts on sheets longer than 8ft. not the fastest but give a nice straight line
Great suggestion. Ill have to try that
So cramped, made me clausterphobic watching 😂 Great job❤
Will be removing tiles and plaster from my ceiling soon. Expecting to find some knob and tube.
Good luck and be careful with that knob and tube
Whoa, you make a great job. Love what you do everything by yourself. Thank you for useful video.
Thanks for watching. Good luck on any future projects.
Awesome work. Found your video because I'm about to tackle my own house. You're WAY more experienced than I am but I have enough confidence to take on my project. Would you mind estimating about how much money it took to insulate and install the drywall in that room? Just trying to get an idea even though I'm sure my price will more since it's 2022 and inflation is kicking our ass.
For the Drywall and the insulation I think it was about $400. But, it has been a couple years.
@@KletteTech all good just haven't done any renovation work and wondered how deep I'd have to go, lol. Thank you.
Great video! Leaving lath up, wouldn’t that make the walls stick out further than the walls you removed the lath/plaster?
Great question. But plaster is about 1/2 inch. So if I used the 1/2 drywall the trim will hopefully line up. if you remove the lath. The trim will not matchup. Very frustrating to fix.
@@KletteTech If I cut new trim, can I remove the lath. It will make the new electric and HVAC ducts much easier in my situation.
@@coreynalepka5904 Yes but two things can cause a problem. Doors and windows. The jams will stick out and trim wont line up drywall. There are a couple things you can do. One plane down the jams or push out trim with an extra piece of the behind it. Planing the jab down looks the best. Does that make sense?
@@KletteTech planing it down seems to make the most sense. Not sure I'm following you on the trim advice.
Thank you for the quick response. My girlfriend and I are bidding on our first home. It was built in 1870 and we will be removing all the bad plaster (ALL THE PLASTER LOL) before we move in. We appreciate these quality videos.
does the impact driver help the screw to go into the old wood stud better than a regular power drill? some old wood studs are like rocks.
I have never thought about it like that but I think it does.
I noticed that you removed the trim around the window but not around the door and the closet. Why is that?
At first I only removed the outer trim. I did not want to take remove all the trim with the risk of damaging it. I also thought it would be more work. I ended up taking all the trim down except the around the closet and door because I needed to insulate it. The door and closet are not on outside walls. So I did not have to worry about air drifting through.
You don't change the old electrical wires out?
I do it is in a different video.
Thanks. Great informative video. What are the names of the yellow things you used to help hold the drywall up?
Thanks for watching. For the life of me I cannot remember and I cannot find them anywhere online. Sorry
Drywall lift
Great vid, thanks so much!
I'm thinking of buying a project house, it's 100 years old, and they had started renovation, then somebody lost their job or something.
The house (huge, 2800 sq ft) was stripped down to the lath - no insulation. I'm wondering if it might be easier to just go ahead and drywall over the lath, then blow in insulation from above down between the studs, rather than having to remove all the lath and staple in the insulation.
Would remove any lath necessary for new wiring, of course.
Also, how the heck do you get drywall up to a 20' ceiling?
Any thoughts?
Thanks again!
Great questions. I would think think blowing insulation in would work. But I might try one room first. 20' ceiling. That is a really high ceiling. I would rent a lift.
good tips thanks for the video
Thanks
so its possible to put drywall over wooden lathes? I want to do the same..any advice..Sorry for the ignorance im first time diyer
I did and it as worked well. Some people say the drywall will crack but it has not yet. If you do make sure to use a longer screw on the ceiling
@@KletteTech do I use 5/8 drywall? For ceiling and how long screw ?
@@robertmontoya1721 1 5/8 at the minimum or 2 inch
@@KletteTech thanks alot!!
My plaster house doesn’t have any insulation. Should I remove all the small woods to add insulation? Or I just add the drywall ?
I added insulation. We are in the midwest. kinda of depends on where you live. But in general I would say yes.
Depends where you are. if you have HUMID summers you may want to avoid so the humidity has more avenues to escape and just run up the gas bills a bit more in winter. Will save you from humidity damage. Otherwise you will have to run a humidifier 24/7 in the summer
What size dry wall did you use for the wall and ceiling?
1/2 inch
Hello, so I can leave the laff up and drywall over it....I thought I had to tear the laff down. Also, I wasn't going to insulate the bathroom...is that ok? Or is it a must do?
I left it up in the inside walls. A couple people have told me I should not have but I have never had a problem. If it is an outside wall I would recommend insulating the walls. But is also depends on where you live. Hope this helps
@@KletteTech I’m in Ohio. Thanks
@@KletteTech why did they recommend you tear it down?
@@MarriageandtheSingleLady They said it might my the cracks in the tape job later. But I have a wall I did 12 years ago and it has not cracked. If I was in northern Ohio I would insulate. On the southern tip I would still consider it. But might not be as important.
Good video . I’m wondering don’t you hit the small nails that hold up the lath regularly while driving in the drywall screws ?
No. the nails are small and the screw would move them right out of the way.
Plaster contein asbestos?
I also have lathe in my house. How do I know where the studs are?
Find on stud and then measure 16" in both directions
You can usually see or feel them through the cracks in the lathe. Or look for tiny ancient nails.
Can I cut the boards into smaller pieces or should it always be as big as you can?
The bigger the sheet the less taping that needs to be done
was wondering the same thing, what's the disadvantage of more creases and just filling them with puddy, or foam ? seems you could mount 4x4 pieces much faster.
I have an older house they used plaster for most of the walls and ceilings. Would it be best to stick with plaster or switch it up for drywall? Also I'm new to doing this, I've never done any type of work like this ever.. what would you suggest? My house is about 100yrs old but partially renovated. I wanted to upgrade the older parts of the home.
If the plaster is in good shape I would leave it up there. Mine was in real bad shape and I wanted to insult behind it. My current house is a mixture of drywall and plaster. Sometimes in the same room.
may i as what is the wall material that you are installing the drywall to? it looks like wood, but not
Back in the day before drywall people would put thin pieces of wood and plaster over it. Its nailed into the joist. So I assume he is following where the nails are to find the studs
Awesome video! Wanted to wish you a merry Christmas! Was in your moraine electrical class Monday and Wednesday.
Thanks. It was a fun class. I am glad it was such a cool group.
Is not best to take out that wood ?
Why drywall over lath instead of plaster?
I had weight concerns on the ceiling
Why would you not remove the lathe and add insulation? At least in the ceiling
I mention in the video that I did not remove the lathe because of the old insulations that is up there. The mess would have been horrible and we are living in the house. Also, I plan on blowing insulation in attic in the future. Might as well leave what is up there.
@@KletteTech ah, I see. I think I have vermiculite in my ceiling so it complicates thinga
Sirs, which type of insulation would you recommend to install in this situation? Thanks for the brilliant video.
whats the thickness of the drywall ?
1/2 inch
Dont you hate when you go on a big job where the guys hanging the rock are not the guys taping it. You are the guy taping it. And they do a loose and sloppy job because they dont have to tape it and they are A holes lol. This has happened almost evetime i go to mud a big job. And i spotted my first nail as a kid in 1977. When you walk on a job and see nice tight joints you know the hanger and taper is one and the same. No matter if youv been doing this for 40 yrs its a good idea to watch these vids for new products and tips and tricks. Thanks for making it.
Thanks for watching
I like your video and your tape measure Walkman😅
haha
Thank you for sharing 👍
Thank you too
Why not use a chalk line ?
Because I never thought about it. If I do drywall again I will
If I'm not planning on reusing old trim then I'd be fine to tear out all the lathe correct?
Yes. But around the door and any windows you might have to cut the jamb down so the trim around the door and window will sit flush.
How did you find out beams to screwing drywall on ceiling ?
Nails in lath
I’m wanting to take down the lathe to replace all the electrical wire while I’m at it do you recommend?
Yes. Get it done while it is open.
thanks for this video!
My pleasure!
Just make a chalk line to mark the angled cuts.
Good Advice
Nice video. How long did it take you to do the drywall on that room ?
It was about 3 or 4 days of work. But I am slow
Nice video and impressive how well you accomplished this tricky task is such a tight space.
Thanks!
Thank you buddy. single owner here 🤙🏼
No problem 👍
Or a chalk line lol
I have the same type of old house, and there are multiple cracks on the ceiling. In this case, can I install additional layer of dry wall on top of old ceiling? (I don't want to remove old ceiling) Do you think if this would work?
You left the old plaster on? If it doesnt crack and fall onto of drywall would be ok. But you don't want that weight pushing the drywall out.
y don’t remove that wood garbage?
Idk this giys reasons, but in my city, I think I have to have it inspected if I take the lap board off.
I want everything above & beyond code anyway, but the inspectors in my town are notorious for being mofos.
Love banging things lol
Dude use a chalk line, way easier.
Thanks for the tip
This is my college class
great