My wife and I did all the ceilings in our bungalow like this. Made 2 "Dead Men" (length of 3 x 2 timber with a piece screwed 90 degrees across the end to make a "T"). Used these to support each end of the 8 x 4 foot sheets when placing against the ceiling. Used full boards first staggering them, then filled in with smaller pieces. Did 8 ceilings in all.
Great job boys, this is exactly how we do it. A little tip we do is mark the back of the level at 300 centres so when you draw your straight line you can flick a mark at 300 with the marks on the level, saves the tape coming out again. 😉👍
@@andychappel3500 at 3:56 he uses a spirit level to draw a line to cut the board along. The above tip is to have marks on your spirit level every 300mm, then transfer these to the board as you are marking your straight line. That's because you put screws in every 300mm. Hope that helps someone!
I'm remodeling a 70 year old house that has moderate water damage in a couple of the smaller rooms and mild watermarks in a couple of other rooms. We have installed a new roof, but most of the water damage is quite old and hasn't been wet, recently. The parts that had been wet haven't been wet in months. I had already planned to patch the damaged portions and then install a new layer over the entire ceiling in these rooms. It's nice to see that I'm not the only one that doesn't want to just rip the whole ceiling down!
Great video, I’ve got a bungalow to renovate and it has wood chip paper on the ceilings and I’m deffo going to do this instead of trying to steam that bloody stuff off! For the sake of loosing 15mm room height after it’s been skimmed etc, it’ll make for a better finish and be less messy!
Old artex ceilings could potentially be an issue, but if you're ever unsure, it's always best to seek professional guidance on your particular circumstances. All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Im honestly just wondering…, but why no furring strips? Is it better to lay it straight to plaster? I was gonna fur strip whole ceiling in a framing type layout then fasten to those
Nice work. For info, British Gypsum website says screw centres for ceilings are 230mm across the board and 150mm at board ends. For partitions its 300mm then 200mm for external angles.
If you have a bit of a bow in the ceiling depending on how much it's bowing I find putting an off cut between the old ceiling and the new board you're fitting normally sorts the wobble. Thanks for all your videos guys I'm learning so much, all very professional! 🙂
you dont need to have the very edge of every piece of drywall screwed into the ceiling. as long as you got about 12 inches close to it, you can just putty it where it reaches the wall.
lads dunno if you will reply but do you often see these old artex ceilings sagging down? ours is an old council house an the ceiling in our bedroom has split and is sagging down so im looking at battening it back up and drywall over the battens.
If you’ve got a slightly lumpy original ceiling then use resilient bar screwed to the joists prior to over boarding. They’ll add some acoustic dampening as well.
Hey Freddie Lee Thompson hope you are all well, I will check them out for cost, anything to make a better job, thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍 keep safe
Omg! This might have just saved my life (and marriage) The ceilings in my house are papered, it's welded on I'm sure! I'm definitely going to see if the contractor can do this. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the video 😉
Whats the best way to make all the lighting still fit , I have a bathroom I'm planning on doing this to but I have a bathroom fan with a light and speaker in it and idk if I'm better off just putting a small piece of wood to make it come down to fit the sheetrock or if there's an easier way to do it. Sheetrock is a nightmare for me , I can do your plumbing and fire sprinkler but I've always hated sheetrock work. And what size do you recommend for going over the sheetrock, was thinking quarter inch or less because it's not like I have 10 plus foot ceilings
Great video. What if my bathroom ceiling more than 7 mm out of level and I want tiles to be spot on and not cut at angle? Can you help? House is over 60 yo and 1.7 m long level put against ceiling got me terrified.
Great video I watched with pleasure and comfort to plan our upcoming project that will involve task “ make good” for ceiling after re wiring. Quick question, why and when will you consider to overboard the ceiling?? The ceiling in video seems look stable despite few holes after some electrical work I presume.
Great video, very useful - thank you! Quick question, what do you do if you don't have a joist running along one edge of your room - how do you secure the edges on that side of the room?
@@jeracom I’ve got the same issue as G Money, the wall isn’t load bearing . There isn’t a joist / wall plate running along one edge of the ceiling. Think I’ll have to use plasterboard foam on that edge.
I know what You mean where the old plaster board used to Lap of the internal walls and there is no joist it’s just how they built back then you can do one of a few things fit noggins or stick and screw and hole for the best 😅
I've just boarded a ceiling and at least one more to go (back toi joist not overboard), an old Victorian property so nothing is straight. Unfortunatly in one of the corners I didn't take enough off the board and caught the corner, the papers still intact but the gypsum has broken. Whats the best option to get it ready for the plaster? Sister a bit of joist and screw the broken bit down? (theres an inch and a half overhand between the end joist and the wall)
Hi, can you please explain what to do when there are no joists on the edge of the ceiling? I have 2 joists left and if I screw my plasterboard to them there is about another 20cm that’ll have a slight hang as I have nothing to screw it to. Thanks in advance!
great video, could you please clarify a couple of things, is it better to use tapered plasterboard as opposed to square edge for the purpose of taping, also I have an artexed ceiling, would you suggest using batons as opposed to fixing directly onto the art. thanks,
Hi bobby midden, Either square or tapered edge board is fine to use. Tapered edge is mainly for dry lining applications, to allow jointing compound to be applied and sanded in. However, if you do use tapered edge, it's always a good idea to start by applying some skim into the tapers to bring them level with the rest of the board. With regards to the artex, it should be fine to board straight over. If it is a very heavy / deep pattern, then it might be an idea to give it a light scrape first. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Thanks for the great video.... I want to overboard my bathroom ceiling which has got thin artex on it... I don't really want to scrap it of,... My question is - if I overboard the ceiling, can I just paint over it (once I've filled out the joint gaps with tape and plaster)... Do I need to plaster the boards?.. I don't really want to go through plastering it all.... Thanks
Very helpful video as doing my own ceiling soon! One question, would there always be a joist running alongside where wall meets ceiling to fix end of board - or do you have to discover it and ping it every time? I didn't see tge ping in video. Cheers
Hard to see in the video but do you put screws around the very edge of the drywall, where it meets the walls? Not sure it would be going into a joist at that point but I would think drywall would sag without it.
If there's parts of the ceiling missing or very loose, then I would recommend taking it down and re-boarding it. However, if there are just a few cracks, then overboarding would be a cleaner and quicker option. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Hi BMW, It would depend on the severity of the blown plaster. If it's just a small amount, you could just remove the localised area and overboard. However, if a lot of the plaster is blown, then it would definitely be better to remove it all back to the joists and then board it. I hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Thank you so much, your video is very informative. I will be doing my ceiling soon. I was thinking can I glue the board on my existing popcorn ceiling ? Do you think it will crack ? I'm nervous just to think about 😂😂😂
I'd recommend using a low speed high torque setting with your drill, as too higher speed will usually result in the drill bit popping out of the screw. With regards to the joist finder, I would just go with the tried and tested hole method. This way you can physically see the joists (and save yourself a bit of cash) 😁
Hi D S, When plasterboarding a ceiling, you should always install them across the joists, with staggered joints. This helps to reduce the risk of cracking, should there be any movement in a joist. If you know where the joints of the old boards are, then I would aim to get the joints of the new boards on different joists. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Doing mine next week. One question, where 2 board edges meet at the center of a truss how close to the edge of the board do you put your screws? I understood that screws should be no closer than 15mm to the edge of the board making the centers 30mm. If a truss width is about 47mm you will be running close to the edge of the wood
Hi David you could screw them but we personally would put a bit of 2x2 on each side to create a good positive fixing also we noggin all the board edges and perimeters on ceilings thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE Thanks for the reply. Every video I have watched they hammer holes at the edges of the ceiling then put a chalk line between the holes to give them a screw line when over boarding. Then if board edges meet on a joist they have screwed close to the edges of the board which to me seems weak. I understand what you mean as regards putting a 2x2 either side of the joist but surely that means smashing the board out either side to get it in all over the ceiling. Cheers
@@BuildWithAE Hi John, thanks for replying. Curiously have you ever over boarded a ceiling with acoustic plasterboard and if so, did it work to reduce noise from upstairs neighbours? Thanks in advance.
It does help, but there are many variables to consider when trying to reduce sound transfer. The best solution would be to take down the existing plasterboard, insulate between joists and then board the ceiling with acoustic board. There are sound proofing fixings which can be used to secure the plasterboard. These reduce vibration transfer, which is the main cause of noise. Hope this helps. All the best, John 👷🏼♂️
I've read you can't overboard a plaster and lathe ceiling because the old plaster might fall down and make the new plasterboard sag. But if my plaster ceiling is holding firm to the lathe, it seems like I can just over board it, right? No need for furring strips or anything like that? (The original playset ceiling seems structurally fine, it's just ugly because of slight cracking and tons of nail holes from where a decorative drop ceiling used to be hung)
Hi Roy Harr, In my opinion it's perfectly fine to overboard a lath and plaster ceiling. Providing that you get plenty of good fixings into the joists, there shouldn't be a problem. Please be aware that I am saying this without actually seeing the ceiling, so please don't take this as fact. If you are in any doubt about carrying out the work yourself, please get a professional to have a look. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Build With A&E we are crying solution to install ” trim less light ” and seem I found one after seeing your video!!? Our flat got the ” plaster wood lath ” ceiling. Am I right about that such overborad ceiling is good for Trim less light installation?
Hi content 7714, Trim less light fittings can be fitted to lath and plaster or plasterboard, providing that you have adequate points to fix the fitting to. There is a surrounding plate which is screwed to the ceiling (hence the need for fixing points) then it is skimmed over, giving the seamless look. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Great video. Quick question about leaving a gap between the boards; I've been told that it will allow plaster to mushroom through to the backside and stop cracking (after it's been taped) Is that right or is it b*llocks? Thanks a lot mate.
Personally I would make sure the boards are butted together. If you leave a gap and fill it with plaster, you're relying on the strength of the plaster alone, whereas if the boards are together you have the strength of the board as well. So long as the boards are fixed to a solid substrate, and all the joints are taped, there shouldn't be any cracking. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but why would i leave the old plasterboard in place, cant you just take it down and then not worry about the joist position?
Hey depending on we’re you live in the country it can vary. Top Plasters are expensive, plus they will have an apprentice with them or it could be two plasters, depends on the company and how they are set up. I would suggest getting a couple of quotes and go and look at there work. Thanks Tony
Hi 77rabbit77, This ceiling only had wallpaper on, so in the worst case scenario, there may have been some lead paint present. However, if we ever had even the slightest hint of anything sinister, we would always get it checked by a professional before commencing work. Thanks for watching. All the best, John 😊
Good work, where was the swearing and sweating? I generally go for counter battens, makes a big difference for insulation and if the existing ceiling is ropey it makes everything easier. Also you can pack out any undulations.
Great video. I've done a bit of plaster boarding before but looking to do a pitched roof inside an already converted, but not insulated, room. Given they are quite a lot thicker wondering what best way to cut the angle on the board where the roof meets the wall is?
Hi Jeremy cut it to the longest point and use a plastering rasp that’s how I would do it but everyone has there own way and use required PPE all the best Tony 👍
Hi Guys, when overboarding a ceiling then plastering what would you use around the outside to stop it cracking? The existing walls won't be plastered, just the ceiling. Thanks
Hi Oliver, If the ceiling isn't tied into the walls then there will always be a risk of cracking. The best way to reduce the risk is to ensure that the boards are securely fixed prior to plastering. I was also recommend using decorator's caulk around the perimeter when decorating, as it's flexible and should prevent any cracking. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Fantastic video! Quick question, if you are doing this for a bathroom with an exhaust fan or any room with a ceiling vent, how do you adjust for the new depth? Thanks!
Overboarding would be a quicker and cleaner option than ripping the old one down. However, you need to be sure there are no cables or pipes running low through the joists. 99% of the time they will be running through the centre of the joists, but you should always proceed with caution to ensure a screw doesn't end up causing damage. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Were the rafters not spaced evenly? Otherwise why not find one and put measurement marks across instead of cutting all of those holes? Overall great video.
Great video, thanks. Quick question - we are about to overboard our ceiling (due to artex coating) but have read that we should cut into the wall so that the boards slot in. Is this essential? We’re planning to use 12.5 boards. Thanks!
Hi Cali818 thanks for watching, make sure the ceiling you are going to overboard is in sound condition no loose plaster, if so take the board off and start a fresh, and level ceiling if required. If everything is good overboard as normal and then use bonding to take out unevenness. Thanks Tony
Hi Imran, They did run across the shortest length. The wall which the boards were lent against is a stud and not a supporting wall. Hope this helps. All the best, John 😊
Ha ha. I did that at 32. Hard when you get into your 40s & 50s - Why not electrics or plumbing? Plastering has done me ok but in the end it kills the body ..... think long and hard.... coz you’ll be doing it for the next few years at least! 👌🏻
@@a5amr2 Regardless of warranty, there is nearly zero holding strength if your screw head goes through the paper. If using a regular drill (i.e. not a dedicated drywall screw gun), you can use a drywall screw setter bit. They're designed to disengage the screw at the correct depth.
My wife and I did all the ceilings in our bungalow like this. Made 2 "Dead Men" (length of 3 x 2 timber with a piece screwed 90 degrees across the end to make a "T"). Used these to support each end of the 8 x 4 foot sheets when placing against the ceiling. Used full boards first staggering them, then filled in with smaller pieces. Did 8 ceilings in all.
One of the best videos I've viewed on how to overboard a ceiling. Clear and concise, much appreciated.
Great job boys, this is exactly how we do it. A little tip we do is mark the back of the level at 300 centres so when you draw your straight line you can flick a mark at 300 with the marks on the level, saves the tape coming out again. 😉👍
That's a great hack, thanks for sharing 👌🏻
Glad you enjoyed the video.
All the best, John 😊
@@BuildWithAE can you translate it to diy level language or point towards what part of the video this is referring to? :)
@@andychappel3500 at 3:56 he uses a spirit level to draw a line to cut the board along. The above tip is to have marks on your spirit level every 300mm, then transfer these to the board as you are marking your straight line. That's because you put screws in every 300mm. Hope that helps someone!
@@andychappel3500 school boy error lol
I'm remodeling a 70 year old house that has moderate water damage in a couple of the smaller rooms and mild watermarks in a couple of other rooms. We have installed a new roof, but most of the water damage is quite old and hasn't been wet, recently. The parts that had been wet haven't been wet in months. I had already planned to patch the damaged portions and then install a new layer over the entire ceiling in these rooms. It's nice to see that I'm not the only one that doesn't want to just rip the whole ceiling down!
Good video and boarding lads
Great content on your channel.
Video quality 👌🏾
Informative 👌🏾
Detailed 👌🏾
Keep it Up for sure 👍🏾.
Great video and thank you. It'll help me a lot.
Very clever. Many thanks
British Gypsum actually recommends screws at 230mm centres within board area and 150mm around edges for ceilings
Brilliant just what I needed well done lads
Great video, I’ve got a bungalow to renovate and it has wood chip paper on the ceilings and I’m deffo going to do this instead of trying to steam that bloody stuff off! For the sake of loosing 15mm room height after it’s been skimmed etc, it’ll make for a better finish and be less messy!
Best use 9.5mm for ceiling, less weight than 15mm plus it will follow your ceiling line better..
Thanks. Great video. Is asbestos a concern when poking holes in the existing ceiling?
Old artex ceilings could potentially be an issue, but if you're ever unsure, it's always best to seek professional guidance on your particular circumstances.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Spot on thankyou so much i will be doing this myself in the next few weeks.❤❤😎💕😍
Hi Elvina much appreciated all the best Tony have a awesome weekend 👍
Very helpful video. Did you use moisture board on the ceiling in the bathroom? Thanks.
Great work.
Many thanks Barry! 👍
Very handy. Many thanks for taking the time to upload this.
Glad it was helpful !
Great video .
Im honestly just wondering…, but why no furring strips? Is it better to lay it straight to plaster? I was gonna fur strip whole ceiling in a framing type layout then fasten to those
If there is a small gap around the perimeter where the plasterboard meets the wall, do you stuff it with joint compound?
Nice work. For info, British Gypsum website says screw centres for ceilings are 230mm across the board and 150mm at board ends. For partitions its 300mm then 200mm for external angles.
If you have a bit of a bow in the ceiling depending on how much it's bowing I find putting an off cut between the old ceiling and the new board you're fitting normally sorts the wobble. Thanks for all your videos guys I'm learning so much, all very professional! 🙂
nice job lads
👍
Nice one... what do you do when you get to a wall edge and there are no joists to screw board into?
you dont need to have the very edge of every piece of drywall screwed into the ceiling. as long as you got about 12 inches close to it, you can just putty it where it reaches the wall.
Love your videos. When working with ceilings that have inverted Coving? How do you go about over boarding. Thanks
lads dunno if you will reply but do you often see these old artex ceilings sagging down? ours is an old council house an the ceiling in our bedroom has split and is sagging down so im looking at battening it back up and drywall over the battens.
Thanks for the Tips Guys
Thanks Martin! 👍
Another great job you make it look so easy 🏴👍
Thanks Yorwerth! Take care and have a great week 😉👍
Far too neat. Good work lads
Many thanks Wayne, take care 👍
If you’ve got a slightly lumpy original ceiling then use resilient bar screwed to the joists prior to over boarding. They’ll add some acoustic dampening as well.
Hey Freddie Lee Thompson hope you are all well, I will check them out for cost, anything to make a better job, thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍 keep safe
Could I do this and just fill the gaps between the boards then paint or paper to save paying some to come skim it? Thanks great videos!!
Are you using tapered edge PB or normal one?
Omg! This might have just saved my life (and marriage) The ceilings in my house are papered, it's welded on I'm sure! I'm definitely going to see if the contractor can do this. Fingers crossed. Thanks for the video 😉
Haha glad we could help! Have a great weekend Samantha! 👍
DIY
I bought a board lifter to save my marriage.
Worth it's weight in gold.
This will be not to heavy with second board ?
Great video - well explained :-)
Whats the best way to make all the lighting still fit , I have a bathroom I'm planning on doing this to but I have a bathroom fan with a light and speaker in it and idk if I'm better off just putting a small piece of wood to make it come down to fit the sheetrock or if there's an easier way to do it. Sheetrock is a nightmare for me , I can do your plumbing and fire sprinkler but I've always hated sheetrock work. And what size do you recommend for going over the sheetrock, was thinking quarter inch or less because it's not like I have 10 plus foot ceilings
Should the joint where the plasterboard butts up against the vertical wall be taped?
if theres a big hole tape it .. if its 0,3-0,5 mm just leave it without taping
Great video.
What if my bathroom ceiling more than 7 mm out of level and I want tiles to be spot on and not cut at angle?
Can you help?
House is over 60 yo and 1.7 m long level put against ceiling got me terrified.
Great video I watched with pleasure and comfort to plan our upcoming project that will involve task “ make good” for ceiling after re wiring. Quick question, why and when will you consider to overboard the ceiling?? The ceiling in video seems look stable despite few holes after some electrical work I presume.
Thanks 🙏🏻
Great video, very useful - thank you! Quick question, what do you do if you don't have a joist running along one edge of your room - how do you secure the edges on that side of the room?
You will always have a joist running along the edge otherwise your floorboards above will be Floating about a foot 😉
@@jeracom I’ve got the same issue as G Money, the wall isn’t load bearing . There isn’t a joist / wall plate running along one edge of the ceiling. Think I’ll have to use plasterboard foam on that edge.
I know what You mean where the old plaster board used to
Lap of the internal walls and there is no joist it’s just how they built back then you can do one of a few things fit noggins or stick and screw and hole for the best 😅
Hi A&E, would it be the very same process with insulated plasterboards? :D
I would have no problems fitting the plasterboard.. would a plasterer take issue that this was done and them called in?
I've just boarded a ceiling and at least one more to go (back toi joist not overboard), an old Victorian property so nothing is straight. Unfortunatly in one of the corners I didn't take enough off the board and caught the corner, the papers still intact but the gypsum has broken. Whats the best option to get it ready for the plaster? Sister a bit of joist and screw the broken bit down? (theres an inch and a half overhand between the end joist and the wall)
Hi, can you please explain what to do when there are no joists on the edge of the ceiling? I have 2 joists left and if I screw my plasterboard to them there is about another 20cm that’ll have a slight hang as I have nothing to screw it to.
Thanks in advance!
great video, could you please clarify a couple of things, is it better to use tapered plasterboard as opposed to square edge for the purpose of taping, also I have an artexed ceiling, would you suggest using batons as opposed to fixing directly onto the art. thanks,
Hi bobby midden,
Either square or tapered edge board is fine to use.
Tapered edge is mainly for dry lining applications, to allow jointing compound to be applied and sanded in. However, if you do use tapered edge, it's always a good idea to start by applying some skim into the tapers to bring them level with the rest of the board.
With regards to the artex, it should be fine to board straight over. If it is a very heavy / deep pattern, then it might be an idea to give it a light scrape first.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Thanks for the great video.... I want to overboard my bathroom ceiling which has got thin artex on it... I don't really want to scrap it of,... My question is - if I overboard the ceiling, can I just paint over it (once I've filled out the joint gaps with tape and plaster)... Do I need to plaster the boards?.. I don't really want to go through plastering it all.... Thanks
Very helpful video as doing my own ceiling soon! One question, would there always be a joist running alongside where wall meets ceiling to fix end of board - or do you have to discover it and ping it every time? I didn't see tge ping in video. Cheers
Hi Dags always find your joists all the best Tony 👍
Hard to see in the video but do you put screws around the very edge of the drywall, where it meets the walls? Not sure it would be going into a joist at that point but I would think drywall would sag without it.
Late but in the last few seconds of the video you see him screw the edges
what if the ceiling is an artex ceiling with probably asbestos, how do you mark your joist then without breaking the ceiling?
If my felling has cracks on it and some of board is not lv above can I still board over it or is it advised to rip old ceiling out and reboard over it
If there's parts of the ceiling missing or very loose, then I would recommend taking it down and re-boarding it. However, if there are just a few cracks, then overboarding would be a cleaner and quicker option.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Does overboarding not add too much weight?
If you've got blown plaster would you take that off or wpuld you overboard it instead ?
Hi BMW,
It would depend on the severity of the blown plaster. If it's just a small amount, you could just remove the localised area and overboard. However, if a lot of the plaster is blown, then it would definitely be better to remove it all back to the joists and then board it.
I hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Do you not need to worry about cables running through the joists at low level?
Thank you so much, your video is very informative. I will be doing my ceiling soon. I was thinking can I glue the board on my existing popcorn ceiling ? Do you think it will crack ? I'm nervous just to think about 😂😂😂
What torque setting do you have your drill on? And also do you rate the joist finders you can buy online?
I'd recommend using a low speed high torque setting with your drill, as too higher speed will usually result in the drill bit popping out of the screw. With regards to the joist finder, I would just go with the tried and tested hole method. This way you can physically see the joists (and save yourself a bit of cash) 😁
Great video lads👍 what length and diameter screws did you use?
Hi Glynn Drywall screws 75mm all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE thanks for your help 👍
Do you put the board on the same direction as the old board?
Hi D S,
When plasterboarding a ceiling, you should always install them across the joists, with staggered joints. This helps to reduce the risk of cracking, should there be any movement in a joist.
If you know where the joints of the old boards are, then I would aim to get the joints of the new boards on different joists.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
What m.m plasterboard are you using? (I'm assuming the old one will be 9.5mm as it's warped over the years)
could I slab over bathroom tiled walls?, won't be adding tiles to the slabs when they are done.
I like the comments with the caulk line
Is plasterboard gypsum?
Thank you
Does a joint (ends of the boards) need to finish at a joist so the end of the board is fixed to a solid point?
Hell yes
If I'm using a 9.5mm to overboard on a 9.5 and artex will 50ml screws be ok, or would I be pushing it for the 25ml depth into the joist
Hi Kyle,
I would go for 60mm personally, as it would give a much better grab.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
@@BuildWithAE Topman 👍👍. Ive got 50ml screws, was curious. Good video 👌
Doing mine next week. One question, where 2 board edges meet at the center of a truss how close to the edge of the board do you put your screws? I understood that screws should be no closer than 15mm to the edge of the board making the centers 30mm. If a truss width is about 47mm you will be running close to the edge of the wood
Hi David you could screw them but we personally would put a bit of 2x2 on each side to create a good positive fixing also we noggin all the board edges and perimeters on ceilings thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE
Thanks for the reply.
Every video I have watched they hammer holes at the edges of the ceiling then put a chalk line between the holes to give them a screw line when over boarding. Then if board edges meet on a joist they have screwed close to the edges of the board which to me seems weak.
I understand what you mean as regards putting a 2x2 either side of the joist but surely that means smashing the board out either side to get it in all over the ceiling.
Cheers
I need this done! What was your price for this job?
May I ask what was wrong with the original ceiling? It seemed to be in decent condition.
Is it possible to overboard a ceiling with acoustic plasterboard for soundproofing?
Yes of course, you can use many types of plasterboard when overboarding.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏼♂️
@@BuildWithAE Hi John, thanks for replying. Curiously have you ever over boarded a ceiling with acoustic plasterboard and if so, did it work to reduce noise from upstairs neighbours? Thanks in advance.
It does help, but there are many variables to consider when trying to reduce sound transfer. The best solution would be to take down the existing plasterboard, insulate between joists and then board the ceiling with acoustic board. There are sound proofing fixings which can be used to secure the plasterboard. These reduce vibration transfer, which is the main cause of noise.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏼♂️
@@BuildWithAE Many thanks, John. You've been very helpful.
No problem 😁
Do you have to tape the joints? If not necessary, is it better to do it for a better long term finish to stop cracks?
Hi Richard,
You should always tape any joint on plasterboard, as it helps to prevent any movement which would otherwise cause cracking 👍🏻
I've read you can't overboard a plaster and lathe ceiling because the old plaster might fall down and make the new plasterboard sag. But if my plaster ceiling is holding firm to the lathe, it seems like I can just over board it, right? No need for furring strips or anything like that?
(The original playset ceiling seems structurally fine, it's just ugly because of slight cracking and tons of nail holes from where a decorative drop ceiling used to be hung)
Hi Roy Harr,
In my opinion it's perfectly fine to overboard a lath and plaster ceiling. Providing that you get plenty of good fixings into the joists, there shouldn't be a problem.
Please be aware that I am saying this without actually seeing the ceiling, so please don't take this as fact. If you are in any doubt about carrying out the work yourself, please get a professional to have a look.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Build With A&E we are crying solution to install ” trim less light ” and seem I found one after seeing your video!!? Our flat got the ” plaster wood lath ” ceiling. Am I right about that such overborad ceiling is good for Trim less light installation?
Hi content 7714,
Trim less light fittings can be fitted to lath and plaster or plasterboard, providing that you have adequate points to fix the fitting to.
There is a surrounding plate which is screwed to the ceiling (hence the need for fixing points) then it is skimmed over, giving the seamless look.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Build With A&E so thrill that got your immediate reply!!! Looking forward to more video soon. Happy New Year & a good one ☝️
Great video. Quick question about leaving a gap between the boards; I've been told that it will allow plaster to mushroom through to the backside and stop cracking (after it's been taped) Is that right or is it b*llocks?
Thanks a lot mate.
Personally I would make sure the boards are butted together. If you leave a gap and fill it with plaster, you're relying on the strength of the plaster alone, whereas if the boards are together you have the strength of the board as well.
So long as the boards are fixed to a solid substrate, and all the joints are taped, there shouldn't be any cracking.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Thanks for that. Much appreciated!
Hey John, good stuff again. You should have took down the old lath there first though as no one is living there. Other than that nice job!
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but why would i leave the old plasterboard in place, cant you just take it down and then not worry about the joist position?
At prevent a mess if u leave the old board. And also keeps the house warm.double insulation
nice job. what's the rough cost of that?
Hey depending on we’re you live in the country it can vary.
Top Plasters are expensive, plus they will have an apprentice with them or it could be two plasters, depends on the company and how they are set up. I would suggest getting a couple of quotes and go and look at there work. Thanks Tony
Great video. Do you guys ever worry about asbestos when drilling through decorative finishes like that ceiling?
Hi 77rabbit77,
This ceiling only had wallpaper on, so in the worst case scenario, there may have been some lead paint present.
However, if we ever had even the slightest hint of anything sinister, we would always get it checked by a professional before commencing work.
Thanks for watching.
All the best, John 😊
@@BuildWithAE Nice! If the ceiling has asbestos in it, is there a safe way to still board over?
Any asbestos should always be removed by a certified professional, it's not worth trying to cut corners with that stuff!
Can you overboard in 9.5mm? Great video btw
Kevin Atterbury yes
Enjoyed that lads! Where are you guys based?
Hi The Scottish English Teacher thanks for your kind words we are based in Leamington Spa all the best Tony 👍
To find the joists could you use an electronic stud finder instead of putting holes in the ceiling.
Good work, where was the swearing and sweating? I generally go for counter battens, makes a big difference for insulation and if the existing ceiling is ropey it makes everything easier. Also you can pack out any undulations.
That’s exactly how I have always done it .You get a more secure ceiling and it really doesn’t cost that much more in time or money .
Hi guys do you venture to manchester to do work?
Sorry, we’re lucky if we get out of Leamington.
@@BuildWithAE oh thats a shame
Great video. I've done a bit of plaster boarding before but looking to do a pitched roof inside an already converted, but not insulated, room. Given they are quite a lot thicker wondering what best way to cut the angle on the board where the roof meets the wall is?
Hi Jeremy cut it to the longest point and use a plastering rasp that’s how I would do it but everyone has there own way and use required PPE all the best Tony 👍
Hi Guys, when overboarding a ceiling then plastering what would you use around the outside to stop it cracking? The existing walls won't be plastered, just the ceiling. Thanks
Hi Oliver,
If the ceiling isn't tied into the walls then there will always be a risk of cracking. The best way to reduce the risk is to ensure that the boards are securely fixed prior to plastering. I was also recommend using decorator's caulk around the perimeter when decorating, as it's flexible and should prevent any cracking.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
Build With A&E thanks John, I did consider decorators caulk or paintable silicone. I will give the caulk a go. Thanks
No problem 😊
Fantastic video! Quick question, if you are doing this for a bathroom with an exhaust fan or any room with a ceiling vent, how do you adjust for the new depth? Thanks!
Hi Jeff buy and extension piece for the fan all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Is this the best option for hiding an awful artex kitchen ceiling? Or should I tear the old one down and start from scratch?
Overboarding would be a quicker and cleaner option than ripping the old one down. However, you need to be sure there are no cables or pipes running low through the joists. 99% of the time they will be running through the centre of the joists, but you should always proceed with caution to ensure a screw doesn't end up causing damage.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
what was the length of the screws you used?
Mos Clay 75mm
Can you overboard on top of kitchen tiles?
Best to take them off, especially if they are a fire hazard
How thick was the board that you used and what length were the screws?
Drywall repair How to diy patching videos
th-cam.com/video/kmNksSpf4AE/w-d-xo.html
Were the rafters not spaced evenly? Otherwise why not find one and put measurement marks across instead of cutting all of those holes? Overall great video.
Get yourself a quick prop from b and q. Worth there wait in gold especially if your on your own.
Great video, thanks. Quick question - we are about to overboard our ceiling (due to artex coating) but have read that we should cut into the wall so that the boards slot in. Is this essential? We’re planning to use 12.5 boards. Thanks!
im planning to overboard my plaster ceiling. but im afraid the drywall might end up wavy because plaster ceilings are not perfectly flat
Hi Cali818 thanks for watching, make sure the ceiling you are going to overboard is in sound condition no loose plaster, if so take the board off and start a fresh, and level ceiling if required. If everything is good overboard as normal and then use bonding to take out unevenness.
Thanks Tony
Guy who overboarded my ceiling used smaller section of drywall then even out with the mud
I usually find the joists run along the shorter span of the room. These ones seem to be the opposite.
Hi Imran,
They did run across the shortest length. The wall which the boards were lent against is a stud and not a supporting wall.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 😊
So i would loose about half a inch of ceiling height.
👍
I'm trying to get in the the plastering trade at the age of 32 any ideas mate
Ha ha. I did that at 32. Hard when you get into your 40s & 50s - Why not electrics or plumbing? Plastering has done me ok but in the end it kills the body ..... think long and hard.... coz you’ll be doing it for the next few years at least! 👌🏻
Yeah don’t bother
Make sure you tape those joints too lol
You guys need a senco screw gun 💪🏻💪🏻 great vid though 👍🏻
This guy's a natural on TV , real charisma, SAID NO ONE EVER
its not tv yih berk
Good video but its important that the screw heads don't go through the paper, manufacturers warranty is viod if the screw head penetrate the paper.
Why
@@a5amr2 Regardless of warranty, there is nearly zero holding strength if your screw head goes through the paper. If using a regular drill (i.e. not a dedicated drywall screw gun), you can use a drywall screw setter bit. They're designed to disengage the screw at the correct depth.