Old lath and plaster walls are generally breathable. For external walls, you need to consider whether it still needs some breathability before plastering over.
If you've ever taken down a lath and plaster ceiling, you'll know that virtually anything is better than having to deal with the dust and mess, especially if the property is inhabited. I've overboarded ceilings in my own house - it was easier because I could access the loft above and use a drill to mark the joists. You could use a stud finder as well. I've also skimmed over artex, using a thin coat of bonding followed by multifinsh. For walls, I've skimmed over, again using a thin coat of bonding when the wall was very uneven, but I've also removed and used EML. Overboarding isn't usually possible because studs aren't in the correct lay out, unlike joists.
We always bed the mesh into the skim. Over old cracked walls like that we use a mix with bonding. Notch the first coat, and the mesh sits on the profile.
Nice. I've got an internal lath and plaster wall and want to dot and dab it with 9.5 boards. Can you just dot and dab straight on to lath and plaster without wallpaper on it? Or does it need screws..? Cheers.
I have just taken down a lathe kitchen ceiling. Not taking a risk because its been up since 1929 If you don't want to lose the cornice multitool along it then board it over the lathe strips. I would always use 12.5 mm board for rigidity and that's what's going up in the kitchen.
Thanks for posting but if you have time to answer, what does the end of a lath and plaster wall look like where the internal door frame fits? I need to shorten or extend my door frame to fit a new door and don't know what the extent of work will be if i remove the existing 790mm fit
When you remove the old frame there will be a timber stud in place which the frame is fixed to. In order to widen the frame you will need to remove this stud & reposition it. The laths can be trimmed using a circular saw 👍
That's the right way to do it but not an affordable way for most people with no idea how to DIY. The proper way would be to remove all the plaster wall & call a heritage plasterer to re-lath the internal walls and then lime plaster it all, including use wooden beads for external corners not metal corner beads. Most will of course pick overboarding due to budget & knowledge constraints.
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Old lath and plaster walls are generally breathable. For external walls, you need to consider whether it still needs some breathability before plastering over.
This wall is internal & the building is made up of Portland cement not lime
If you've ever taken down a lath and plaster ceiling, you'll know that virtually anything is better than having to deal with the dust and mess, especially if the property is inhabited. I've overboarded ceilings in my own house - it was easier because I could access the loft above and use a drill to mark the joists. You could use a stud finder as well.
I've also skimmed over artex, using a thin coat of bonding followed by multifinsh.
For walls, I've skimmed over, again using a thin coat of bonding when the wall was very uneven, but I've also removed and used EML. Overboarding isn't usually possible because studs aren't in the correct lay out, unlike joists.
We always bed the mesh into the skim. Over old cracked walls like that we use a mix with bonding. Notch the first coat, and the mesh sits on the profile.
Nice. I've got an internal lath and plaster wall and want to dot and dab it with 9.5 boards. Can you just dot and dab straight on to lath and plaster without wallpaper on it? Or does it need screws..?
Cheers.
I have just taken down a lathe kitchen ceiling. Not taking a risk because its been up since 1929
If you don't want to lose the cornice multitool along it then board it over the lathe strips.
I would always use 12.5 mm board for rigidity and that's what's going up in the kitchen.
So did you do the whole house or just part of it what do you think a rough estimate would be before having to one of those rumors from top to bottom
what were houses with lath and plaster made of in the uk in 1903?
@@ke161co Brick, stone , timber..
Thanks for posting but if you have time to answer, what does the end of a lath and plaster wall look like where the internal door frame fits?
I need to shorten or extend my door frame to fit a new door and don't know what the extent of work will be if i remove the existing 790mm fit
When you remove the old frame there will be a timber stud in place which the frame is fixed to. In order to widen the frame you will need to remove this stud & reposition it. The laths can be trimmed using a circular saw 👍
If reducing the width then simply plant a piece of timber onto the stud then fix the new frame in place
Did you glue the mesh on
8mm stainless staples 👍
@@SDRobertsPlastering thanks.
@@SDRobertsPlastering don't you have to bed the mesh into the first coat of plaster?
@@ianturner8459 yes you can do it like this also. I do this when rendering but skimming I staple it
Was thinking of this myself. Thanks for clarification
Why no demonstration?
Rip it all out Final.
That's the right way to do it but not an affordable way for most people with no idea how to DIY. The proper way would be to remove all the plaster wall & call a heritage plasterer to re-lath the internal walls and then lime plaster it all, including use wooden beads for external corners not metal corner beads. Most will of course pick overboarding due to budget & knowledge constraints.
Use 12.5mms boards on ceilings,more rigid,9.5's bend too much.