I'm actually in the process of re-plumbing my fuel system right now. All new filters, regulators, AN fittings and hose...the works. I know you spent a small fortune on all those parts and your hard work is greatly appreciated. I subbed, too.
Nice! Yup it was an expensive test but there were questions I wanted answers to. Only one way to know! Happy to share them and hopefully help someone else! Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Great test and video as usual. One thing I didn't hear you say was that even though there is a pressure drop post regulator, you can adjust the regulator to compensate for the drop going to the carb. so regardless of which filter you purchase, you can adjust the pressure to meet the carburetor's recommended pressure specification. In a real world scenario the gauge would be located last in line before the carb so you know exactly what pressure the carb is seeing, Yes? Thus adjusting the regulator to compensate for the filter shortcomings. Keep up the great videos, they are great teaching guides.
True but the point of the test was not how to adjust a regulator, but how much drop is seen in a filter. There are quite a significant number of people who do not run a regulator or gauge of any type. Part of why I did this video is to show people that even though you might trust what the manufacturer had a pump rated at (mechanicals are rarely at that number) you WILL see a drop at the filter and no doubt having a regulator to adjust the system is key. In a perfect world, all carb guys would have a better configured fuel system, but then I’d have no videos to make! 😉 Thanks for watching!!!
Great content and I understand the intent of the test but what I didn't see mentioned was the flowrate conducted during the test? Real Filters are rated for X pressure drop @ X flowrate and everything being equal the filter with a larger surface area will yield the lowest pressure drop. If you really want to get into the weeds the differences are likely because of the accuracy/precision of the regulator and the efficiency of the filter element (Cheap filter housing with high efficiency filter material will outperform a shiny billet filter housing with a lower efficiency filter element - all other variables being equal). Also consider when working at low pressures that general use pressure gauges are 2.5%-5% accurate based on the full span and are most accurate in the middle 3rd of the range.
Would be interesting to know how much pre filter pressure would be needed to maintain 6psi post filter. Might show that on some filters the the filter just can't flow a specific psi, or maybe the paper filter starts to blow apart when too much psi is provided.
There are two types of fuel regulators. Those that maintain pressure on their output, rail pressure. Or those that maintain pressure on their input, as a bleed off. If you regulate fuel pre carb, when under a low to high fuel consumption, the regulator is not only playing catch up to the demand it becomes a restriction. If your carb is a dual fuel input the inlet closest to the main input from the fueling system will be favored. Together it can cause starvation, if only for a moment, to the bowls furthest from the fuel system input. By having a post carb regulator the potential pressure is at the carb. If the pressure at the carb drops the regulator will still be at a higher resistance after the carb. The fuel will take the first path of least resistance thus decreasing the quantity of fuel at the post regulator instead of via versa. The output bleed off of the post carb regulator is your fuel return line. Circulating all over pressure fuel through the entire fuel line including to the carb back to the tank. Kool fuel is happy fuel. As long as your pump can build enough pressure to get past any pre carb restrictions even at high demands, the carb can not starve. The post carb regulator may starve but then who give a squirt?
if you were to do a round 2 of these I would like to see what the filters from shitbox supply, one thing that matters too is the filter material (for e85) the ethanol breaks down the paper filters
So.....if you added a set amount of particulate to each and measured the pressure drop i would be more happy to see wot happens. Do any have filter media collapse or tear? Do you end up with fuel starvation or no? Good channel though! Filter pressure drop is best at zero no? I have used filters with bypassess in hydraulics applications to prevent starvation in an emergency. Shunting fluid to a clean filter and throwing a red light in the process. Overkill i know.
Great video. Nice to see a comparison of Chinese stuff all the way up to the only American made filter you tested. Funny that's the one that performed the best...
What is your opinion of aeromotive filter elements? I have an off brand housing and need to check what filter I have after my a1000. Trying to check costs and go with a competent brand
Aeromotive is always my go to. Made in the US and run by a bunch of racers. I don’t care the cost. I want the performance and quality that the brand provides.
Fuel drop should be all the same micron . The only difference will then be size and material the filter is made from . Filters can be stainless mesh / sintered bronze /paper element
You should've started out with "Yes there is a substantial difference" or "No there really isn't for all of us who just need a quick answer. You get credit for the views whether or not we watch the entire video or not. TH-cam is a wonderful tool for those of us who use it for fast info when we have a question, or are in a jam, and need a really fast answer, but a lot of you abuse that by making us watch an entire video full of great info for a person wanting to know stats or small differences in products, when you could just as easily simply reveal at the beginning whether or n, you could ot there's a major difference and reason why we should continue watching, OR for those of us who don't have the time to watch 25 half hour long videos to find out what we need to know to get us off the side of the hot-ass road, you could just say "No there's no major difference, this probably isn't your problem, so move onto the next thing that might be your culprit,, as long as that MF looks pretty clean"......... OR "there is a major difference, in fact,, some of em' really suck right out of the box, so keep watching and I'll explain what's what, so you can make an informed decision on what to do from here".
TH-cam does care about viewer time. they care more about how long someone watches a clip than how many click on it. the longer you can hold a viewer to the clip the more money you make for it.
Is the slap chop guy their spokesman? 😂 Never heard of them. Just looked at their website and they do some replacement OE filters. Nothing universal and for motorsports like we tested here.
I just got back from buying a new filter just in time to see that you don’t like filters with the bronze element, which is what I got, Edelbrock 8139, I needed something short
Not my favorite. Not enough surface area. Just check/clean it often. Bout all you can do with that type. I honestly never looked at their flow/filtration rating. I don’t image it’s ideal.
What did we learn here today? Well for one, your cheap gauges read higher than 0, with your pump OFF. So all this was for nothing. Would of loved to see some calibrated gauges being used.
Just a little more information from my own personal experience. I've used most of those filters and some other brands. The Summit Racing and Russell Performance fuel filters have the stainless steel "pancake" elements just like that Jegs filter. So, if you don't like the pancake elements, avoid those brands, as well.
To be fair, even the paper elements didn’t fare well when tested. What’s concerning about that type of filter is lack of surface area to catch the junk. Will clog/restrict flow much quicker than an element with a lot more area to filter the garbage out.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Agreed. Having a filter with that little surface area is actually kind of scary. Especially if it's on a dedicated nitrous fuel system. One clogged filter could be disastrous. Have you ever thought of testing different brands of AN fittings to see if one brand actually flows better than the others? I've always wanted to do that, but never had the time.
@@save16thave yup. That one could get catastrophic rather quickly! I have no plans to test flow rate on fittings or filters at this point. Not sure I have the right equipment to conduct such a test. It would be rather crude if I did. For sure that could be some good info though. I’ll have to think about it some more and see if I can come up with a simple, cost effective way to do it.
I’m not clear why the pressure drop at the filter is important if it is located upstream of the pressure regulator? So why pay the highest price for the most expensive filter unless it is a better filter or, for some reason, you have to install it downstream of the regulator.
The regulator is there to ensure you’re getting the correct pressure for the carburetor or injector. If you want the carb to see 6 psi, but the filter drop that, it’s also dropping FLOW. Same with fuel injection.
Hello, I bought a Edelbrock AVS2 Carburetor (800cfm)to modify my Buick Riviera 430cui (1969). Do you recommend the Edelbrock Dual Feed Fuel Inlet #8133? Which kind of fuel pressure regulator do you use?
Maybe I missed part of the video but am I missing something if I have a fuel pressure gauge right before the carburetor and after the second fuel filter and adjust my fuel pressure regulator while it's set up like this aren't you compensating for the pressure drop?
Doesn’t matter. What matters is consistent pressure to the carb. That’s why the regulator is always last in the system. Unfortunately, some still think putting a filter right before the carb is the better play. Knowing that there is a significant drop in pressure is half the battle.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsI'm sorry if I sound a little slow LOL, my setup has a regulator a second filter and then a gauge. Would this gauge not read the pressure the carburetor is receiving? I told you about this before I bought this car for a really good deal and it was pretty much done it just set for a while because the wife didn't want to part with it. I really appreciate your insight and in the last 3 months I can't tell you how many people I've told about your channel LOL.
The concern is getting the right pressure to the carburetor. What I wanted in this video was to show that indeed, filters will cause a drop in pressure. Some more than others. Some, like the exceptional product that Aeromotive produces, has little drop. If you’re running a regulator and a gauge, you’re already better than the majority. If there’s a filter AFTER your gauge, what you don’t know is what pressure the carburetor is seeing. That can be a problem. You can eliminate that potential problem now, or wonder about it in the future if you ever have a problem that could be fuel delivery/pressure related. Don’t worry about asking questions. I’m always happy to respond. If in the end you have a better, more dependable set up, then we both are happy!
I have a Walbro frame mounted 392. What should I use for a pre filter? I have a Fitech TBI. 100 micron is what everyone says for EFI but Walbro says 20-40 micron pre filter. Also how about a 100 micron test?
@@332ARA run the 10 micron filter then. I don’t think it’s really that critical between the two. If you’re concerned about the system and the injectors, you cant go wrong with the 10. I’m sure it will support whatever you’re going to throw at it. I’d be more worried about the brand than the post pump filter.
By your chart the worst filer with the biggest drop is the Aeromotive one. Your chart says it had a 5.9-6.0 psi drop so if starting pressure was 6.0 psi then you had no pressure out of the filter. It would make more sense and be correct if you truly showed the delta valve of the pressure, this is what drop means is the delta of the two values. Thus the best filter being the Aerostar would have a PSI drop of .0 to .1 drop. Fluid dynamics needs to be involved and pumps don't make pressure they just make flow. restriction to the flow equals pressure. Maintaining pressure on a closed needle and seat in the carb is easy. Go WOT and the flow must increase to maintain pressure. These static type pressure regulators are not very good at maintain constant fuel pressure. They only flow anything over a given pressure without taking flow rate into effect. Using a dynamic type regulator where flow is bypassed back to the tank has many advantages, using a high flow pump you can maintain constant fuel pressure no matter the amount of flow. They also maintain constant flow thru system reducing possibility of vapor locking of the system.
I made the assumption that the viewer would do the math to see what the pressure drop was. A little subtraction never hurt anyone, or so I assumed. As far as getting into fluid dynamic theory, I made that pretty clear in the first couple minutes. Just a real world test, with very common fuel system parts and filters that were actually on the shelf at the time I shot this video. Is what it is I suppose.
On a dual carb edelbrock edurachrome air gap set up what carb do i run to the vacum advance do i run it to primary (rear carb) or front carb or split it with 3 way connector and connect to both? Or install on intake in port?
I'm actually in the process of re-plumbing my fuel system right now. All new filters, regulators, AN fittings and hose...the works. I know you spent a small fortune on all those parts and your hard work is greatly appreciated. I subbed, too.
Nice! Yup it was an expensive test but there were questions I wanted answers to. Only one way to know! Happy to share them and hopefully help someone else! Thanks for watching and subscribing.
Great test and video as usual. One thing I didn't hear you say was that even though there is a pressure drop post regulator, you can adjust the regulator to compensate for the drop going to the carb. so regardless of which filter you purchase, you can adjust the pressure to meet the carburetor's recommended pressure specification. In a real world scenario the gauge would be located last in line before the carb so you know exactly what pressure the carb is seeing, Yes? Thus adjusting the regulator to compensate for the filter shortcomings. Keep up the great videos, they are great teaching guides.
True but the point of the test was not how to adjust a regulator, but how much drop is seen in a filter. There are quite a significant number of people who do not run a regulator or gauge of any type. Part of why I did this video is to show people that even though you might trust what the manufacturer had a pump rated at (mechanicals are rarely at that number) you WILL see a drop at the filter and no doubt having a regulator to adjust the system is key. In a perfect world, all carb guys would have a better configured fuel system, but then I’d have no videos to make! 😉 Thanks for watching!!!
Great content and I understand the intent of the test but what I didn't see mentioned was the flowrate conducted during the test? Real Filters are rated for X pressure drop @ X flowrate and everything being equal the filter with a larger surface area will yield the lowest pressure drop. If you really want to get into the weeds the differences are likely because of the accuracy/precision of the regulator and the efficiency of the filter element (Cheap filter housing with high efficiency filter material will outperform a shiny billet filter housing with a lower efficiency filter element - all other variables being equal). Also consider when working at low pressures that general use pressure gauges are 2.5%-5% accurate based on the full span and are most accurate in the middle 3rd of the range.
Awesome Test, Good timing for me. Re-doing my fuel system this week. Thanks very much for posting. Appreciate you! Blessings and cheers from Motown.
Nice! Glad you found it!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Me TOO. Thanks again.
@@robertclymer6948 you’re very welcome!
Would be interesting to know how much pre filter pressure would be needed to maintain 6psi post filter. Might show that on some filters the the filter just can't flow a specific psi, or maybe the paper filter starts to blow apart when too much psi is provided.
Nicely done... You should try a canister type as well. As fuel flow makes right angles, it causes a pressure drop at each turn.
There were only so many that my budget would allow. :) But I’ll take anything someone wants to send me to test in another video!
There are two types of fuel regulators. Those that maintain pressure on their output, rail pressure. Or those that maintain pressure on their input, as a bleed off.
If you regulate fuel pre carb, when under a low to high fuel consumption, the regulator is not only playing catch up to the demand it becomes a restriction. If your carb is a dual fuel input the inlet closest to the main input from the fueling system will be favored. Together it can cause starvation, if only for a moment, to the bowls furthest from the fuel system input.
By having a post carb regulator the potential pressure is at the carb. If the pressure at the carb drops the regulator will still be at a higher resistance after the carb. The fuel will take the first path of least resistance thus decreasing the quantity of fuel at the post regulator instead of via versa.
The output bleed off of the post carb regulator is your fuel return line. Circulating all over pressure fuel through the entire fuel line including to the carb back to the tank. Kool fuel is happy fuel.
As long as your pump can build enough pressure to get past any pre carb restrictions even at high demands, the carb can not starve. The post carb regulator may starve but then who give a squirt?
if you were to do a round 2 of these I would like to see what the filters from shitbox supply, one thing that matters too is the filter material (for e85) the ethanol breaks down the paper filters
So.....if you added a set amount of particulate to each and measured the pressure drop i would be more happy to see wot happens. Do any have filter media collapse or tear? Do you end up with fuel starvation or no? Good channel though! Filter pressure drop is best at zero no? I have used filters with bypassess in hydraulics applications to prevent starvation in an emergency. Shunting fluid to a clean filter and throwing a red light in the process. Overkill i know.
Great video. Nice to see a comparison of Chinese stuff all the way up to the only American made filter you tested. Funny that's the one that performed the best...
Exceptionally engineered, designed and made in the USA! That’s why they’re the best fuel system on the market. Thanks Jeff! Good seeing you at PRI….
Great Video
Question on fuel pressure gauges ( liquid filled) are those better than non liquid , under the hood of the car ?
I prefer them as they tend not to bounce around and protect the tubing on the inside.
What micron is each? I would think between. A 10 and 100 would be a different
What is your opinion of aeromotive filter elements? I have an off brand housing and need to check what filter I have after my a1000. Trying to check costs and go with a competent brand
Aeromotive is always my go to. Made in the US and run by a bunch of racers. I don’t care the cost. I want the performance and quality that the brand provides.
Fuel drop should be all the same micron . The only difference will then be size and material the filter is made from . Filters can be stainless mesh / sintered bronze /paper element
Awesome video! Just what I needed to know
You should've started out with "Yes there is a substantial difference" or "No there really isn't for all of us who just need a quick answer. You get credit for the views whether or not we watch the entire video or not. TH-cam is a wonderful tool for those of us who use it for fast info when we have a question, or are in a jam, and need a really fast answer, but a lot of you abuse that by making us watch an entire video full of great info for a person wanting to know stats or small differences in products, when you could just as easily simply reveal at the beginning whether or n, you could ot there's a major difference and reason why we should continue watching, OR for those of us who don't have the time to watch 25 half hour long videos to find out what we need to know to get us off the side of the hot-ass road, you could just say "No there's no major difference, this probably isn't your problem, so move onto the next thing that might be your culprit,, as long as that MF looks pretty clean"......... OR "there is a major difference, in fact,, some of em' really suck right out of the box, so keep watching and I'll explain what's what, so you can make an informed decision on what to do from here".
Your response took longer to type than it would have taken you to just watch the video. 👍
TH-cam does care about viewer time. they care more about how long someone watches a clip than how many click on it. the longer you can hold a viewer to the clip the more money you make for it.
I have the clear version filter just before the regulator, with the pressure gauge just before the carb
That’s the way to do it for sure.
Have you heard of Pure Power 304 double woven stainless steel filters. I would bet that these filters would beat them all.
Is the slap chop guy their spokesman? 😂 Never heard of them. Just looked at their website and they do some replacement OE filters. Nothing universal and for motorsports like we tested here.
I just got back from buying a new filter just in time to see that you don’t like filters with the bronze element, which is what I got, Edelbrock 8139, I needed something short
Not my favorite. Not enough surface area. Just check/clean it often. Bout all you can do with that type. I honestly never looked at their flow/filtration rating. I don’t image it’s ideal.
That looks almost like my truck at 0:40. Which filter do you suggest using?
bring these back and show us why
Fantastic test! Very helpful! Great job!!
Thanks. I’m glad you found it informative!
Impressive test! I like your videos 👍
Thank you!
What did we learn here today? Well for one, your cheap gauges read higher than 0, with your pump OFF. So all this was for nothing. Would of loved to see some calibrated gauges being used.
Just a little more information from my own personal experience. I've used most of those filters and some other brands. The Summit Racing and Russell Performance fuel filters have the stainless steel "pancake" elements just like that Jegs filter. So, if you don't like the pancake elements, avoid those brands, as well.
To be fair, even the paper elements didn’t fare well when tested. What’s concerning about that type of filter is lack of surface area to catch the junk. Will clog/restrict flow much quicker than an element with a lot more area to filter the garbage out.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Agreed. Having a filter with that little surface area is actually kind of scary. Especially if it's on a dedicated nitrous fuel system. One clogged filter could be disastrous. Have you ever thought of testing different brands of AN fittings to see if one brand actually flows better than the others? I've always wanted to do that, but never had the time.
@@save16thave yup. That one could get catastrophic rather quickly!
I have no plans to test flow rate on fittings or filters at this point. Not sure I have the right equipment to conduct such a test. It would be rather crude if I did. For sure that could be some good info though. I’ll have to think about it some more and see if I can come up with a simple, cost effective way to do it.
Where did you get the tool to help put fittings on the hose?
I put a link to it in the description.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Perf. Thanks!
It ain’t cheap but it’s worth every penny. Your hands and fingers will thank you. lol
I’m not clear why the pressure drop at the filter is important if it is located upstream of the pressure regulator? So why pay the highest price for the most expensive filter unless it is a better filter or, for some reason, you have to install it downstream of the regulator.
The regulator is there to ensure you’re getting the correct pressure for the carburetor or injector. If you want the carb to see 6 psi, but the filter drop that, it’s also dropping FLOW. Same with fuel injection.
Can you run the fuel filter test with a mechanical pump?
Pressure is pressure. Doesn’t matter where it’s seen from. And bench testing a mechanical pump is not anything I could invest in.
Thanks for your test!
You’re welcome!
Hello, I bought a Edelbrock AVS2 Carburetor (800cfm)to modify my Buick Riviera 430cui (1969). Do you recommend the Edelbrock Dual Feed Fuel Inlet #8133? Which kind of fuel pressure regulator do you use?
I appreciate your channel.
Cool. Thanks man. Same for yours as well!
Awesome video bro. 🔥🔥
Thanks man!
@@MuscleCarSolutions your welcome my brother! 👊
Maybe I missed part of the video but am I missing something if I have a fuel pressure gauge right before the carburetor and after the second fuel filter and adjust my fuel pressure regulator while it's set up like this aren't you compensating for the pressure drop?
Doesn’t matter. What matters is consistent pressure to the carb. That’s why the regulator is always last in the system. Unfortunately, some still think putting a filter right before the carb is the better play. Knowing that there is a significant drop in pressure is half the battle.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsI'm sorry if I sound a little slow LOL, my setup has a regulator a second filter and then a gauge. Would this gauge not read the pressure the carburetor is receiving? I told you about this before I bought this car for a really good deal and it was pretty much done it just set for a while because the wife didn't want to part with it. I really appreciate your insight and in the last 3 months I can't tell you how many people I've told about your channel LOL.
The concern is getting the right pressure to the carburetor. What I wanted in this video was to show that indeed, filters will cause a drop in pressure. Some more than others. Some, like the exceptional product that Aeromotive produces, has little drop. If you’re running a regulator and a gauge, you’re already better than the majority. If there’s a filter AFTER your gauge, what you don’t know is what pressure the carburetor is seeing. That can be a problem. You can eliminate that potential problem now, or wonder about it in the future if you ever have a problem that could be fuel delivery/pressure related. Don’t worry about asking questions. I’m always happy to respond. If in the end you have a better, more dependable set up, then we both are happy!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Right on I really appreciate you sharing you knowledge. Please keep up the good work.
@@BPattB anytime. Happy to help. Please let me know how it goes. 👍
love this video
I have a Walbro frame mounted 392. What should I use for a pre filter? I have a Fitech TBI. 100 micron is what everyone says for EFI but Walbro says 20-40 micron pre filter. Also how about a 100 micron test?
100 before the pump and 40 after the pump.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Now I'm more confused. Everyone says 10 after the pump for fuel injection
@@332ARA run the 10 micron filter then. I don’t think it’s really that critical between the two. If you’re concerned about the system and the injectors, you cant go wrong with the 10. I’m sure it will support whatever you’re going to throw at it. I’d be more worried about the brand than the post pump filter.
@@MuscleCarSolutions okie dokie, thanks
The 100 micron is for carburetors. 40 is for carb or EFI. 10 micron is for EFI only.
By your chart the worst filer with the biggest drop is the Aeromotive one. Your chart says it had a 5.9-6.0 psi drop so if starting pressure was 6.0 psi then you had no pressure out of the filter. It would make more sense and be correct if you truly showed the delta valve of the pressure, this is what drop means is the delta of the two values. Thus the best filter being the Aerostar would have a PSI drop of .0 to .1 drop. Fluid dynamics needs to be involved and pumps don't make pressure they just make flow. restriction to the flow equals pressure. Maintaining pressure on a closed needle and seat in the carb is easy. Go WOT and the flow must increase to maintain pressure. These static type pressure regulators are not very good at maintain constant fuel pressure. They only flow anything over a given pressure without taking flow rate into effect. Using a dynamic type regulator where flow is bypassed back to the tank has many advantages, using a high flow pump you can maintain constant fuel pressure no matter the amount of flow. They also maintain constant flow thru system reducing possibility of vapor locking of the system.
I made the assumption that the viewer would do the math to see what the pressure drop was. A little subtraction never hurt anyone, or so I assumed. As far as getting into fluid dynamic theory, I made that pretty clear in the first couple minutes. Just a real world test, with very common fuel system parts and filters that were actually on the shelf at the time I shot this video. Is what it is I suppose.
My question is: In what situation would you need to put the regulator before the filter? Im Very new
If it’s a carbureted system, the regulator is always last.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks dude, I appreciate it! I'm learning a lot from your videos.
@@sawyerbarnes7439 don’t hesitate. If you have any questions just let me know. I’m happy to help!
you could connect two filters in parallel ...
Reason for , liquid filled gauges?
Durability, consistency, longevity.
Thanks for the tips and great vids
On a dual carb edelbrock edurachrome air gap set up what carb do i run to the vacum advance do i run it to primary (rear carb) or front carb or split it with 3 way connector and connect to both? Or install on intake in port?
Run off the primary carb.
Thanks ill try that and all your info on fuel system is spot on so far so good
@@tootiesmerrill3307 please let me know if you run into any questions.
This should be good!!
I hope its useful information!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Always. You do great videos!
@@hybridmusclegarage4590 thanks man. Really appreciate that. Same with yours
Hey bud question eddy 600 cfm recommened fuel pressure im hearing 3 psi thanks for any input
I’ve covered this in a few videos. Short answer is 6psi and tune down from there. Long answer you’ll have to watch the rest of my tuning videos. :)
So which one to put on my 1984 C10 SBC
Aeromotive.