Purchased a '65 Mustang FB w/ 289 stroked to 347ci & edelbrock 1406. Your videos have been a big help in understanding this carb & refining the car's behavior....thanks
This is valuable video and it should help lots of people. Can you bring it to the next level and do the tuning with rod/jet changes using an electronic AFR gauge on the truck? test drive with readings etc.. thanks..
I’m shooting that video now. First without an AFR and next with. It’s just taking much longer than I anticipated. First video will be done in a few weeks is my guess. AFR one will be a little longer as I still don’t have the headers I ordered. On backorder!
Thank you. About to do a 1411 that my brother is sending me. He rebuilt it years ago but it’s been sitting up since so I’m going to refresh it. He’s very good but recommended I do it. Bought the Edelbrock kit as I wasn’t going to put any Chinese junk in my carb.
I always check secondary opening measurement, and in the past year or so rarely is it what the book shows. Love your videos. Love edelbrock carbs. Thanks for your time!
I always hear guys say that their new carb ran good out of the box. I put a new AVS2 1905 on my old truck yesterday, decided to do the float adjustments before it went on, I was totally shocked how out the floats were. Sure glad I decided to check them before mounting.
@@Brent_Rolston they are set when they are assembled, but god only knows how the carrier handled them in shipping, warehouse handling, etc. Don’t care what brand carburetor. Checking the floats is always on the checklist before installing. Now you know why! 👍
@@MuscleCarSolutions surprisingly the idle mix screws seemed bang on. Picked up a timing light that shows the RPMs on it, worth the little bit of extra money!!! Is that ever nice, especially when you're working alone.
@@Brent_Rolston for sure. I have the same set up. Given that timing is adjusted several times during carburetor tuning, it’s nice to have the engine RPM right there.
My accelerator pump was on the top hole on the 1411 on my 390, but previous owner could have done that. feels like it bogs when stomping on it so i went to move it to the middle hole, dropped that little clip on the garage floor and it went to tiny clip heaven. Careful handling those things.
For tuning, metering rods very important, going to be lean from factory, especially with larger engines. Easy to change on top of carb in 5 min. I had this carb when it was a Carter AFB. A metering rod kit was at least available back then.
Elect choke.....I have found that you do indeed need to go through and do the full meal deal on measuring the choke piston, plate measurement etc etc. I'm way up north and if you rely only on the thermo srping, you'll find that your choke plate gap will completely close on cold -20F days and the rig will be a complete PITA to get running. If you're in a more moderate climate, no problem.
Great video series. Learning a lot. With your information I've actually determined I should have a 450 cfm. I'm completely stock on a 350 and don't see myself exceeding 4500-5000 rpm. That would put right at 450 cfm. And, of course, Edlebrock only goes down to 500. So, all the information I'm getting here is kinda pointing to me to not use Edlebrock.
It’s a ballpark. Going up 50 CFM isn’t a deal killer. Plus if you go with the new AVS2 carb, you get the benefit of the annular boosters and the easy drivability and crisp throttle response. You won’t have any issue tuning it for your stock 350. The only consideration is if you plan on any upgrades in the future that would change the size the engine would require.
I have a new small block Chevy long block that I installed about 2 years ago. It starts right up when cold, but restarting after probably 30 minutes to 2 hours, it cranks a lot before firing. Seems very rich and occasionally puffs a a little black smoke at hot startup. The carb. Is an avs2., runs great driving around and on the highway.
@@MuscleCarSolutions lucky for us it is available just a mile or so away. It is all we put in the El Camino. That's why i asked Thanks and love your videos
MCS hey its the 86 monte carlo ss guy again. My car would stall when getting into the throttle after stopping. I finally figured out that it was the accelerator pump setting. I moved it from middle to bottom(that didn't work) and then to the top and it finally stopped stalling at max throttle. Now I have a slight surging (car kind of rocks forward then stops and then repeats) at lower speeds 20-45mph. At 1st I thought maybe I had a spark plug that was fouling, but I pulled all 8 plugs and they looked clean. (I just replaced last year) Anyways just need that little bit of tuning to get this ride right. Thanks for any suggestions. i have a 1406 5315 Edelbrock
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you very much , I do have a problem I'm trying to sort out wich led me down this edlebrock path , I have a 1406 on a sbc , just a mild 283. Nothing special , runs smooth , revs to rpm fine , when you let off the gas it drops rpm and stalls even if you jerk the throttle , wont stay running wich leads me to believe the bowls are low on fuel, I havent pulled the top off and measured the floats , or tweaked the accelerator pump yet , I've just been trying to learn before I start. Any insight would be great , I know you cant see the motor run and check it out for yourself but have you run into this before and what the cause was ?
@@mikealdag7309 couple things. I think you’re right on target checking the float level first. Second would be, does it have a pressure regulator? If not, I would highly suggest getting one. The 600 is a BIG carb for that little engine. So it might be you’re loading it with fuel. Tail pipes black, sooty? Car smell like fuel at stop lights? All sighs of a rich condition. Start with the floats and the regulator. Also, what is your timing set at? It should be around 10-14 degrees of initial, more depending on your elevation.
@@MuscleCarSolutions no smell of gas or carbon , it's on a run stand right now , been tweaking it most of the day, the timing does need a little more advancement it's at 10 right now , no regulator at this point but it will have one tomorrow with the gauge , I'm going to pull the carb off tomorrow and get to checking things , if I dont find anything that stands out I'll play with the springs , lighten them up a little. It is a 283 with a mild cam , I'm going to keep the accelerator pump on the lowest setting if I can . And if I cant get it sorted I'll go a little smaller on the carb. Thanks , I'll let you know what I find
@@mikealdag7309 ah. This could be your issue. Theres no load on the engine. When its on a static run stand (assuming you dont have it on an engine dyno where you can introduce load) then yes it could be very funny active without that load to create engine vacuum. Do the little things - check the floats and get the regulator, but I think I'd wait to tinker with it too much before its actually in the car and driving. I think you'll learn a lot on how that load will effect the operation of the engine.
On the carburetor or on the distributor pod? If it’s on the carb and you’re on the timed port, it won’t until the throttle blades open. On the distributor could be a bad line or the diaphragm is busted.
My brass floats had welds lines that were not finished off, so, the drill bit looks like I was using a 1/2", effectively ☺ That's a good idea to use 1/2" 👍
Consistency in setting both the same is key. The fuel doesn’t flow between both sides of the carb that well so any slight variance on the float isn’t that big an issue. Getting them both set at the same height is! I’ve seen some funky ones before. Sounds like you have one. 😂
I'm replacing an old q jet with a 1406 edelbrock but it has an electric choke. The wiring for this car has seen better days but it still runs with the q jet although not very well
Hi Muscle Car Solutions, thanks so much for your effort to teach us. I know this video has been a long time but could you help me with my question? I have a Mustang with v8 302, Edelbrock carb 4 barrel and mechanical pump. You in my position will install a fuel pressure regulator and gauge anyway?
Is that carb a very forgiving carb as far as ajusting it I understand what you described seems so much easier than a holly to adjust the jets are the last thing people address . I'm wanting a 4 bbl I'm thinking AVS 2
It’s extremely easy to adjust. But it does take a little bit of understanding before you can really get settled in and making the right adjustments in the tuning process. I have a ton of videos in a playlist on the Edelbrock carbs. If you don’t see what you’re looking for, please don’t hesitate to ask and I’m always happy to help.
@@MuscleCarSolutions appreciate that how do you like the copy carb the Demon series ?? Compared to Edelbrock what I realize is marketing with Holly they copied alot of circle track and drag race guys then out the air bleeds in and 4 corner idle adjustment ??? I had enough with 2 seems holly has alot of carbs now but they just one feature new it's shiny and painted awesome but it's a 4160 underneath or a 4150 . Too many small things to really say it's a new carb I think the demon is a ripping off of quadrajet and Edelbrock but my 2 choices were demon or avs2
The Edelbrock is a patented update of the original Carter design. Try as they may, any other attempt will fall short BUT there are some things that can be improved on, especially when it comes to cornering. But yeah holley owns a large part of the carburetor market. The original design is an absolute winner at the track. In other instances it doesn’t do so well. Hence, the other designs they have bought to add to their offering.
Thank you for your Carb tuning videos. My Edelbrock 1906 is working so much better for me now. Question: I don't have any delay but it seems to drop off in acceleration on the last 1/5 of the throttle. It accelerates great but seems to bog down and not continue up on that last part of the throttle. Backing off with the peddle actually makes it improve. I've got the largest jet in the secondary Edelbrock has and have tuned the secondary flap. It's way better but still drops off on that last top end when accelerating full throttle. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for all your help here!
Daily driver 76 Camaro. 350 sbc, mild cam, Aluminum heads, Edelbrock intake, shorty headers, 700R4/stock converter. Dyno tested 350 hp at engine/260 at wheel. Guy said fuel is the bottleneck to more HP. I opened it up as much as I could with rods and jets without fouling plugs . Secondary jet increase improved it the most. Still get a drag (though not as bad) in acceleration at top end of the throttle. It's the same taking off from a stop or accelerating at highways speeds - anytime. When the throttle is open full or near full, there is a deeper sound but not as much acceleration. Back off a little and it accelerates more. I'm assuming it's not getting enough gas at full throttle...? Adjusting the timing reasonably doesn't seem to matter. P.S. I do have the vacuum advance capped off on my MSD HEI distributor because total timing was too high with vacuum advance connected. Does that help any? Thanks @@MuscleCarSolutions
I always love your videos! Since I got my 86 Chevy, I've been having issues getting it to pass emissions. Timing is set, and my mechanic explained that they are getting the right readings at idle, but when the meissions place puts it on the dyno, we are still getting huge CO output. The mechanic thinks we are getting more fuel than needed when the throttle goes down and then also at higher RPMs. What adjustments can be made to curb rich conditions in that situation? The primaries jets are .92 and the secondary jets are .95, not sure what metering rods and springs he currently has in.
Emissions tuning is a whole other animal. Not sure there’s much I can do to help. The Edelbrock 1400 is the emissions legal carb and is designed to be emissions friendly with an EGR port and calibrated a little more lean. However most of the Edelbrock carbs can be tuned to be a little more efficient. Your tuning needs to occur in the cruise mode (I’m assuming - I don’t have a clue how they run the dyno test in your state/country). Those calibrations for whatever size carb you have can be found in the owners manual and should help you get it more inline with what the controlling authority is demanding. Step up springs is also where you might be able to make up some ground. Getting yourself a good AFR gauge to tune with would be extremely helpful.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks, it's been tough. We've gotten so close on the numbers, but it's been a trial. I may just have to upgrade to a EFI conversion. all the videos and articles i've read, i just can't figure out what else it could be.
At any elevation I haven’t had any luck with an Edelbrock carb under 4.5 psi. It’s just not enough to keep it fed properly. It will run on 3, but you’ll fight it.
Question. I have a 65 pontiac 389, just rebuilt with a mild cam, 30 over, and an avs 650 carb with an aluminum intake. I have a fuel pressure gauge, and my pump is putting out about 5.2 psi per the guage with no regulator. Is this pressure too low?? What is the minimum pressure needed?! Thanks, and great video!
No I don’t think so, but the engine will dictate what it wants. The range the Edelbrock carb beat operates in is 4.5-6PSI. I generally always start at 6 and tune down from there as needed. As you tune that carb for your engine, you’ll know if you should add a regulator. I’ll always suggest running one. Todays fuel is the variable and having one is always good to give you another adjustment point in the system.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok, I will most definitely add one to my system. I'm glad to hear that pressure isn't too low. Hopefully it doesn't want more or I'll be looking for a new pump too. Thank you for your reply.
Hi.. I've just finished rebuilding 2 Edelbrock 1404's using their 1477 kits and instructions... 1 Step I'm completely confused with is the Secondary opening /timing.. Says to set primary butterfly to bore spacing at 13/32 and bend linkage till secondaries just start to open... Then set secondary stop tang so that secondary butterfly stops at 5 degrees before vertical.. My secondaries stop at 18 degrees before vertical using Throttle lever and secondary stop tang is about 1/4' away from stop... Edelbrock Tech has been no help.. Thanks
What do you think makes the secondaries operate? What creates that air speed? It’s a drop in pressure in the engine. It’s a vacuum that’s created. Hence why the weighted air valve in the performer series carbs are classified as vacuum operated secondaries.
Great info! I have a 1984 k10 with a 350 sbc. Has a 1406 edelbrocm. Engine idles fine, but at random times it seems the engine is getting too much fuel, it will just stall randomly sputter under acceleration then if you touch the throttle it will want to die. If you just coast for a while it picks up and clears out and your good for a few more miles.. I do smell fuel when it’s parked and shut off. Also noticed black soot at tail pipes and condensation out of tail pipes. Any ideas what I need to look at?? Thank you
I have an edelbrock 1405 and it has been running great for a whole year now and I have 2 problems. The first one is that the engine stalls when I make a u turn or make a hard turn and the second problem is that since Friday the rpms are too high in park and neutral about 1100 and when in drive it wants to die, it's about 500rpms or less what can it be? The stalling has been there ever since I swapped the carb and it ran beautifully till this friday.
I would encourage you to watch my how to set up a muscle car fuel system video. Goes into detail on where everything should go in a fuel system for a classic car or truck.
Didn’t provide enough info. I did a full video on that topic here; How To Choose Between Timed or Manifold Vacuum th-cam.com/video/Kw05YQK11YE/w-d-xo.html
Why dose Edelbrock require the gasket be in place when making float adjustments. It seems to me you can get a more accurate measurement without the gasket up against the carb top.
@@robertwalton7251 it’s all about where the float rides in the bowl when it’s assembled. If you measure it without the gasket in place, it changes where it’s adjusted to. The float is attached to the airhorn assembly and the gasket thickness is part of that measurement.
Brian, what type of affordable afr gauge can I install for temporary use during calibration if I don't want to install a permanent one? Any recommendations?
There are some options here. I would for sure get one with a weld in bung. You can plug it when you’re done. There are inexpensive options. I like this innovate one. Not sure if it fits your idea of affordable. And it’s really good to keep in the vehicle long term. Lots to learn over time, season changes, fuel quality. amzn.to/3Fu63X8
Sir, I have a 1406. rebuilt. all the measurements are right all the passages clean and pump works. its on a 72 travelall 392 engine. idles and starts great but the second i even touch the gas it flattens out and almost dies. If I hold the choke plate more closed when actuating the accelerator slightly, it does much better. its not the idle circuit and the pump is working. no vac leaks. new distributor, timing dwell and plugs all correct. I had a quadrajet on it and it had power circuit issues so i swapped to this one. Any ideas?
Well I know you say it’s all right, but you’ve got two choices here. You’ve got a vacuum leak or your timing/advance is off. You’re running a points distributor? Or you’re measuring dwell on an electronic distributor? Advance weights hooked up? Have too light a spring? What’s your pressure regulator set to? Does it run ok once you get going? Cruising speeds?
@@MuscleCarSolutions vacuum is good. timing is super sensitive on a 392. TDC is it or nothing pretty much. 5 degrees play is all we got either way. point distributor- new points dwell checked with Sun dwell meter. new distributor and coil. new wires. weights are what came with oem distro. regulator set to 5 lbs. runs great after flat spot. i got it much better by setting the choke all the way rich. (this engine is cold blooded) I havent road tested it yet.
looks like its either a lean or rich misfire. After it warms up it runs fine now till you jump on it in a load. It bogs down, and if you keep pushing it, it backfires a couple times then try s to recover in doing so it surges even when letting your foot off the gas it takes a few minutes and its fine. when no load accel works great. even when cold. one note the primary jets are .095, secondary .092.
I installed a brand new 600 cfm Edlebrock carburetor a immediately it flooded so bad it died and fuel is running inside the carburetor. I really don’t want to mess with sending it back…I need the vehicle. Any input would be appreciated , thanks
@@larrytepfer848 there is no need to send it back. You’ve got basic adjustments to make and to ensure your fuel system is capable and in the right condition to work with it. There’s nothing wrong with the carburetor.
@@MuscleCarSolutions tomorrow I will check my fuel pressure , I have a new fuel pressure regulator but I will double check it. The fact that it is a new carburetor it took me by surprise that it was flooding.
@@larrytepfer848 it should catch you off guard! It just means you have some work to do. Having a regulator and a gauge is an extremely smart move and that’s a great place to start.
What about setting the carb up for Performance, quick acceleration off the line with about 350 HP motor, 1500 to 5500 RPM , 340 gears, C4. 2900 Lbs. car Street strip but mostly street light to light fun. What do you recommend i have the AVS 650 .
Same process as tuning for street use. Still recommend to set fuel pressure at 6psi and you can adjust from there. Set the floats at the 7/16 level and the factory drop. Add fuel as needed in the tuning chart.
Why can't I get my 67 Pontiac to idle ? Have new 750cfm eldebrock, electric choke , have no vaccuum leaks , throttle adjustment is half way of the transfer slot . Don't want to go any farther, timing is set to max advance. Idles at 550 rpm (bearly) in neutral. Cuts off in drive . Engine rebuilt !
I have a AVS2 800cfm on my Pontiac 496 stoker motor. mild cam. I bought this carb brand new and have had i on about 6 months. I'm having a surge at idle. When it warms up it goes away for the most part. I can't seem to get this carb to idle smooth as well. I checked for vacuum leaks and have found none. Please help!
Is there a way I can temporarily set up the electric choke in order to move the car because I can't find any videos on you tube about a temporary solution. plz help
I’m having an issue with the primary jets dumping fuel into the carb. Isn’t it correct that the primary jets are suppose to spray a mist of fuel and not drip? Also, how can I fix that?
I’m a little confused by the question. I’ll assume you don’t have an over fueling issue and you’re just asking about how fuel is delivered through the booster. What type of boosters do you have? There is no pressure behind the fuel in the bowl, only atmospheric pressure. They don’t spray in nice pretty patterns. Fuel injectors do though!
I’m sorry.... it’s the primary Venturi boosters that are doing this. Do you know if they are suppose to spray fuel, or if the drip down the fuel into the engine? Also, how do you get them to work properly?
@@bikemanon22s ok I’ll assume they’re straight or downleg style boosters. Yes, they drip if you’re just hanging over the fender looking at them. There isn’t enough airspeed and load on the engine to pull the way they do under normal operation. You’re not going to see how it flows under full operation unless you’re in a dyno and can lean over and see under load.
Re check your level after you set the drop. Seems ya always mess it up in the process of setting float droop, Tell us , what percent of time is\the level different after you set drop.
I don’t mess up float level after setting drop. They’re really very independent of each other. It’s really impossible to alter one when setting the other.
I have been trying to get part number 1475 for the 4300 squirter for my 650 avs2. Over 7 months I have been trying to get it but nobody has it. I just bought a 670 advenger and this avs2 is going in the dumpster due that I can't get parts for it. The transition is horrible.
I'm running a 1806 650cfm on my 460. It's running rich. I have adjusted the idle mixture screws and it's still running rich. I also have to pump the gas about 6 different times to get it to start every morning. I'm not a carburetor Wizz. Any idea where to start?
Purchased a '65 Mustang FB w/ 289 stroked to 347ci & edelbrock 1406. Your videos have been a big help in understanding this carb & refining the car's behavior....thanks
The 347 is a fun little stroker. Glad the videos have been useful!
This is valuable video and it should help lots of people. Can you bring it to the next level and do the tuning with rod/jet changes using an electronic AFR gauge on the truck? test drive with readings etc.. thanks..
I’m shooting that video now. First without an AFR and next with. It’s just taking much longer than I anticipated. First video will be done in a few weeks is my guess. AFR one will be a little longer as I still don’t have the headers I ordered. On backorder!
Thank you. About to do a 1411 that my brother is sending me. He rebuilt it years ago but it’s been sitting up since so I’m going to refresh it. He’s very good but recommended I do it. Bought the Edelbrock kit as I wasn’t going to put any Chinese junk in my carb.
I always check secondary opening measurement, and in the past year or so rarely is it what the book shows. Love your videos. Love edelbrock carbs. Thanks for your time!
Thank you!
I always hear guys say that their new carb ran good out of the box. I put a new AVS2 1905 on my old truck yesterday, decided to do the float adjustments before it went on, I was totally shocked how out the floats were. Sure glad I decided to check them before mounting.
@@Brent_Rolston they are set when they are assembled, but god only knows how the carrier handled them in shipping, warehouse handling, etc. Don’t care what brand carburetor. Checking the floats is always on the checklist before installing. Now you know why! 👍
@@MuscleCarSolutions surprisingly the idle mix screws seemed bang on. Picked up a timing light that shows the RPMs on it, worth the little bit of extra money!!! Is that ever nice, especially when you're working alone.
@@Brent_Rolston for sure. I have the same set up. Given that timing is adjusted several times during carburetor tuning, it’s nice to have the engine RPM right there.
My accelerator pump was on the top hole on the 1411 on my 390, but previous owner could have done that. feels like it bogs when stomping on it so i went to move it to the middle hole, dropped that little clip on the garage floor and it went to tiny clip heaven. Careful handling those things.
@@mooosestang yup. They tend to go flying often. 😆
For tuning, metering rods very important, going to be lean from factory, especially with larger engines. Easy to change on top of carb in 5 min. I had this carb when it was a Carter AFB. A metering rod kit was at least available back then.
@@scottmcgehee2933 not just rods. That’s only half of the solution! Follow the tuning chart and it will make tuning so much easier.
This is great information!!! Nice tutorial!!!!
Cool. Thanks man!
Your video's just keep getting better and better. Great info!!
Thanks boss! Appreciate that.
Great Video!! Lots of good information!!!
Thanks boss! Appreciate ya!
Elect choke.....I have found that you do indeed need to go through and do the full meal deal on measuring the choke piston, plate measurement etc etc. I'm way up north and if you rely only on the thermo srping, you'll find that your choke plate gap will completely close on cold -20F days and the rig will be a complete PITA to get running. If you're in a more moderate climate, no problem.
Great video series. Learning a lot. With your information I've actually determined I should have a 450 cfm. I'm completely stock on a 350 and don't see myself exceeding 4500-5000 rpm. That would put right at 450 cfm. And, of course, Edlebrock only goes down to 500. So, all the information I'm getting here is kinda pointing to me to not use Edlebrock.
It’s a ballpark. Going up 50 CFM isn’t a deal killer. Plus if you go with the new AVS2 carb, you get the benefit of the annular boosters and the easy drivability and crisp throttle response. You won’t have any issue tuning it for your stock 350. The only consideration is if you plan on any upgrades in the future that would change the size the engine would require.
I have a new small block Chevy long block that I installed about 2 years ago. It starts right up when cold, but restarting after probably 30 minutes to 2 hours, it cranks a lot before firing. Seems very rich and occasionally puffs a a little black smoke at hot startup. The carb. Is an avs2., runs great driving around and on the highway.
Heat soak. Carb is bolted directly to the intake. Needs a spacer to block the heat.
@@MuscleCarSolutions does this have the same affect when using ethanol free gas ?
@@andyuscum ethanol free gas is slightly better, but the percentage of folks who have access to that fuel is pretty minimal in the US.
@@MuscleCarSolutions lucky for us it is available just a mile or so away. It is all we put in the El Camino. That's why i asked Thanks and love your videos
MCS hey its the 86 monte carlo ss guy again. My car would stall when getting into the throttle after stopping. I finally figured out that it was the accelerator pump setting. I moved it from middle to bottom(that didn't work) and then to the top and it finally stopped stalling at max throttle. Now I have a slight surging (car kind of rocks forward then stops and then repeats) at lower speeds 20-45mph. At 1st I thought maybe I had a spark plug that was fouling, but I pulled all 8 plugs and they looked clean. (I just replaced last year) Anyways just need that little bit of tuning to get this ride right. Thanks for any suggestions. i have a 1406 5315 Edelbrock
Great video , thank you for taking the time , very helpful
Awesome! I’m glad you found it useful. If you run into any questions, I’m happy to try and help.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you very much , I do have a problem I'm trying to sort out wich led me down this edlebrock path , I have a 1406 on a sbc , just a mild 283. Nothing special , runs smooth , revs to rpm fine , when you let off the gas it drops rpm and stalls even if you jerk the throttle , wont stay running wich leads me to believe the bowls are low on fuel, I havent pulled the top off and measured the floats , or tweaked the accelerator pump yet , I've just been trying to learn before I start. Any insight would be great , I know you cant see the motor run and check it out for yourself but have you run into this before and what the cause was ?
@@mikealdag7309 couple things. I think you’re right on target checking the float level first. Second would be, does it have a pressure regulator? If not, I would highly suggest getting one. The 600 is a BIG carb for that little engine. So it might be you’re loading it with fuel. Tail pipes black, sooty? Car smell like fuel at stop lights? All sighs of a rich condition. Start with the floats and the regulator. Also, what is your timing set at? It should be around 10-14 degrees of initial, more depending on your elevation.
@@MuscleCarSolutions no smell of gas or carbon , it's on a run stand right now , been tweaking it most of the day, the timing does need a little more advancement it's at 10 right now , no regulator at this point but it will have one tomorrow with the gauge , I'm going to pull the carb off tomorrow and get to checking things , if I dont find anything that stands out I'll play with the springs , lighten them up a little. It is a 283 with a mild cam , I'm going to keep the accelerator pump on the lowest setting if I can . And if I cant get it sorted I'll go a little smaller on the carb. Thanks , I'll let you know what I find
@@mikealdag7309 ah. This could be your issue. Theres no load on the engine. When its on a static run stand (assuming you dont have it on an engine dyno where you can introduce load) then yes it could be very funny active without that load to create engine vacuum. Do the little things - check the floats and get the regulator, but I think I'd wait to tinker with it too much before its actually in the car and driving. I think you'll learn a lot on how that load will effect the operation of the engine.
Thanks for a very informative video! What would cause the vacuum port for the distributer to not have any vacuum?
On the carburetor or on the distributor pod? If it’s on the carb and you’re on the timed port, it won’t until the throttle blades open. On the distributor could be a bad line or the diaphragm is busted.
The Autolite Cobra Jer 2bbl had (500cfm) adjustable accelerateter pump arms
My brass floats had welds lines that were not finished off, so, the drill bit looks like I was using a 1/2", effectively ☺ That's a good idea to use 1/2" 👍
Consistency in setting both the same is key. The fuel doesn’t flow between both sides of the carb that well so any slight variance on the float isn’t that big an issue. Getting them both set at the same height is! I’ve seen some funky ones before. Sounds like you have one. 😂
I'm replacing an old q jet with a 1406 edelbrock but it has an electric choke. The wiring for this car has seen better days but it still runs with the q jet although not very well
Excellent ...... Thank You !!!!!
Hi Muscle Car Solutions, thanks so much for your effort to teach us. I know this video has been a long time but could you help me with my question? I have a Mustang with v8 302, Edelbrock carb 4 barrel and mechanical pump. You in my position will install a fuel pressure regulator and gauge anyway?
Absolutely. It’s another adjustment point in your fuel system and for your tuning process. Add the regulator and now you control what the carb sees.
Is that carb a very forgiving carb as far as ajusting it I understand what you described seems so much easier than a holly to adjust the jets are the last thing people address .
I'm wanting a 4 bbl I'm thinking AVS 2
It’s extremely easy to adjust. But it does take a little bit of understanding before you can really get settled in and making the right adjustments in the tuning process. I have a ton of videos in a playlist on the Edelbrock carbs. If you don’t see what you’re looking for, please don’t hesitate to ask and I’m always happy to help.
The AVS2 is an awesome carb. The new annular design smooths out the power delivery exceptionally well. Very nice driving carb.
@@MuscleCarSolutions appreciate that how do you like the copy carb the Demon series ?? Compared to Edelbrock what I realize is marketing with Holly they copied alot of circle track and drag race guys then out the air bleeds in and 4 corner idle adjustment ??? I had enough with 2 seems holly has alot of carbs now but they just one feature new it's shiny and painted awesome but it's a 4160 underneath or a 4150 .
Too many small things to really say it's a new carb I think the demon is a ripping off of quadrajet and Edelbrock but my 2 choices were demon or avs2
The Edelbrock is a patented update of the original Carter design. Try as they may, any other attempt will fall short BUT there are some things that can be improved on, especially when it comes to cornering. But yeah holley owns a large part of the carburetor market. The original design is an absolute winner at the track. In other instances it doesn’t do so well. Hence, the other designs they have bought to add to their offering.
Thank you for your Carb tuning videos. My Edelbrock 1906 is working so much better for me now. Question: I don't have any delay but it seems to drop off in acceleration on the last 1/5 of the throttle. It accelerates great but seems to bog down and not continue up on that last part of the throttle. Backing off with the peddle actually makes it improve. I've got the largest jet in the secondary Edelbrock has and have tuned the secondary flap. It's way better but still drops off on that last top end when accelerating full throttle. Any suggestions? Thank you in advance for all your help here!
Really difficult to say without knowing what it’s on and what you’re using it for. Share some more details?
Daily driver 76 Camaro. 350 sbc, mild cam, Aluminum heads, Edelbrock intake, shorty headers, 700R4/stock converter. Dyno tested 350 hp at engine/260 at wheel. Guy said fuel is the bottleneck to more HP. I opened it up as much as I could with rods and jets without fouling plugs . Secondary jet increase improved it the most. Still get a drag (though not as bad) in acceleration at top end of the throttle. It's the same taking off from a stop or accelerating at highways speeds - anytime. When the throttle is open full or near full, there is a deeper sound but not as much acceleration. Back off a little and it accelerates more. I'm assuming it's not getting enough gas at full throttle...? Adjusting the timing reasonably doesn't seem to matter. P.S. I do have the vacuum advance capped off on my MSD HEI distributor because total timing was too high with vacuum advance connected. Does that help any? Thanks @@MuscleCarSolutions
I always love your videos! Since I got my 86 Chevy, I've been having issues getting it to pass emissions. Timing is set, and my mechanic explained that they are getting the right readings at idle, but when the meissions place puts it on the dyno, we are still getting huge CO output. The mechanic thinks we are getting more fuel than needed when the throttle goes down and then also at higher RPMs. What adjustments can be made to curb rich conditions in that situation? The primaries jets are .92 and the secondary jets are .95, not sure what metering rods and springs he currently has in.
Emissions tuning is a whole other animal. Not sure there’s much I can do to help. The Edelbrock 1400 is the emissions legal carb and is designed to be emissions friendly with an EGR port and calibrated a little more lean. However most of the Edelbrock carbs can be tuned to be a little more efficient. Your tuning needs to occur in the cruise mode (I’m assuming - I don’t have a clue how they run the dyno test in your state/country). Those calibrations for whatever size carb you have can be found in the owners manual and should help you get it more inline with what the controlling authority is demanding. Step up springs is also where you might be able to make up some ground. Getting yourself a good AFR gauge to tune with would be extremely helpful.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks, it's been tough. We've gotten so close on the numbers, but it's been a trial. I may just have to upgrade to a EFI conversion. all the videos and articles i've read, i just can't figure out what else it could be.
@@Vinventure1 @Tallanvor Hi, What did you finally do/find out? Wouldn't the original size carb still work?
i wasnt thinking of that i may need to bump up my presure I usually run about 3 psi
At any elevation I haven’t had any luck with an Edelbrock carb under 4.5 psi. It’s just not enough to keep it fed properly. It will run on 3, but you’ll fight it.
Question. I have a 65 pontiac 389, just rebuilt with a mild cam, 30 over, and an avs 650 carb with an aluminum intake. I have a fuel pressure gauge, and my pump is putting out about 5.2 psi per the guage with no regulator. Is this pressure too low?? What is the minimum pressure needed?! Thanks, and great video!
No I don’t think so, but the engine will dictate what it wants. The range the Edelbrock carb beat operates in is 4.5-6PSI. I generally always start at 6 and tune down from there as needed. As you tune that carb for your engine, you’ll know if you should add a regulator. I’ll always suggest running one. Todays fuel is the variable and having one is always good to give you another adjustment point in the system.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok, I will most definitely add one to my system. I'm glad to hear that pressure isn't too low. Hopefully it doesn't want more or I'll be looking for a new pump too. Thank you for your reply.
Hi.. I've just finished rebuilding 2 Edelbrock 1404's using their 1477 kits and instructions... 1 Step I'm completely confused with is the Secondary opening /timing.. Says to set primary butterfly to bore spacing at 13/32 and bend linkage till secondaries just start to open... Then set secondary stop tang so that secondary butterfly stops at 5 degrees before vertical.. My secondaries stop at 18 degrees before vertical using Throttle lever and secondary stop tang is about 1/4' away from stop... Edelbrock Tech has been no help.. Thanks
There's a vacuum passage on the electric choke models. Cooling deal?
Yes. It’s needed so the choke coil spring can operate properly to open/close.
I believe the secondaries are air velocity operated. Not Vac.
And what about the air door adjustment in the AVS?
What do you think makes the secondaries operate? What creates that air speed? It’s a drop in pressure in the engine. It’s a vacuum that’s created. Hence why the weighted air valve in the performer series carbs are classified as vacuum operated secondaries.
@@MuscleCarSolutions understood. But , WOT vacuum is almost zero.
@@tomreyn3610 The weights open up the butterflies when Hg goes away. Otherwise, vacuum is always actively keeping them closed.👍
How do you adjust the idle mixture screws on a elderbrock marine carburetor
Great info! I have a 1984 k10 with a 350 sbc. Has a 1406 edelbrocm. Engine idles fine, but at random times it seems the engine is getting too much fuel, it will just stall randomly sputter under acceleration then if you touch the throttle it will want to die. If you just coast for a while it picks up and clears out and your good for a few more miles.. I do smell fuel when it’s parked and shut off. Also noticed black soot at tail pipes and condensation out of tail pipes. Any ideas what I need to look at?? Thank you
What’s your fuel pressure set to and where did you set your floats?
I have an edelbrock 1405 and it has been running great for a whole year now and I have 2 problems. The first one is that the engine stalls when I make a u turn or make a hard turn and the second problem is that since Friday the rpms are too high in park and neutral about 1100 and when in drive it wants to die, it's about 500rpms or less what can it be? The stalling has been there ever since I swapped the carb and it ran beautifully till this friday.
Carb was adjusted with timing light and vacuum gauge
I have a clear plastic fuel filter between the carb and the regulator. Do I need a filter between the tank and the pump?
I would encourage you to watch my how to set up a muscle car fuel system video. Goes into detail on where everything should go in a fuel system for a classic car or truck.
I have 74 corvette 350.
I have vacuum advance distributor. On Edelbrock Carburetor do I plug in vacuum line in rt or lt side of of manifold.
Tks
Keith
Didn’t provide enough info. I did a full video on that topic here; How To Choose Between Timed or Manifold Vacuum
th-cam.com/video/Kw05YQK11YE/w-d-xo.html
Plug drivers side
Mine's running very rich. With it in gear as soon as I step on it, it stumbles and dies. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Pressure too high. Floats set too high. Needle and seats stuck open. Incorrect timing.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks
Why dose Edelbrock require the gasket be in place when making float adjustments. It seems to me you can get a more accurate measurement without the gasket up against the carb top.
@@robertwalton7251 it’s all about where the float rides in the bowl when it’s assembled. If you measure it without the gasket in place, it changes where it’s adjusted to. The float is attached to the airhorn assembly and the gasket thickness is part of that measurement.
Brian, what type of affordable afr gauge can I install for temporary use during calibration if I don't want to install a permanent one? Any recommendations?
There are some options here. I would for sure get one with a weld in bung. You can plug it when you’re done. There are inexpensive options. I like this innovate one. Not sure if it fits your idea of affordable. And it’s really good to keep in the vehicle long term. Lots to learn over time, season changes, fuel quality. amzn.to/3Fu63X8
Thanks and I really appreciate all the information you present. You're very thorough.
@@tygerof2 try to be. Some complain about it but I know what I look for when searching something and like to give all the info on how and why.
Sir, I have a 1406. rebuilt. all the measurements are right all the passages clean and pump works. its on a 72 travelall 392 engine. idles and starts great but the second i even touch the gas it flattens out and almost dies. If I hold the choke plate more closed when actuating the accelerator slightly, it does much better. its not the idle circuit and the pump is working. no vac leaks. new distributor, timing dwell and plugs all correct. I had a quadrajet on it and it had power circuit issues so i swapped to this one. Any ideas?
Well I know you say it’s all right, but you’ve got two choices here. You’ve got a vacuum leak or your timing/advance is off. You’re running a points distributor? Or you’re measuring dwell on an electronic distributor? Advance weights hooked up? Have too light a spring? What’s your pressure regulator set to? Does it run ok once you get going? Cruising speeds?
@@MuscleCarSolutions vacuum is good. timing is super sensitive on a 392. TDC is it or nothing pretty much. 5 degrees play is all we got either way. point distributor- new points dwell checked with Sun dwell meter. new distributor and coil. new wires. weights are what came with oem distro. regulator set to 5 lbs. runs great after flat spot. i got it much better by setting the choke all the way rich. (this engine is cold blooded) I havent road tested it yet.
looks like its either a lean or rich misfire. After it warms up it runs fine now till you jump on it in a load. It bogs down, and if you keep pushing it, it backfires a couple times then try s to recover in doing so it surges even when letting your foot off the gas it takes a few minutes and its fine. when no load accel works great. even when cold. one note the primary jets are .095, secondary .092.
I installed a brand new 600 cfm Edlebrock carburetor a immediately it flooded so bad it died and fuel is running inside the carburetor. I really don’t want to mess with sending it back…I need the vehicle. Any input would be appreciated , thanks
@@larrytepfer848 there is no need to send it back. You’ve got basic adjustments to make and to ensure your fuel system is capable and in the right condition to work with it. There’s nothing wrong with the carburetor.
@@MuscleCarSolutions tomorrow I will check my fuel pressure , I have a new fuel pressure regulator but I will double check it. The fact that it is a new carburetor it took me by surprise that it was flooding.
@@larrytepfer848 it should catch you off guard! It just means you have some work to do. Having a regulator and a gauge is an extremely smart move and that’s a great place to start.
What is the base starting point for the two mixtures screws
1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated.
What about setting the carb up for Performance, quick acceleration off the line with about 350 HP motor, 1500 to 5500 RPM , 340 gears, C4. 2900 Lbs. car Street strip but mostly street light to light fun. What do you recommend i have the AVS 650 .
Same process as tuning for street use. Still recommend to set fuel pressure at 6psi and you can adjust from there. Set the floats at the 7/16 level and the factory drop. Add fuel as needed in the tuning chart.
@@MuscleCarSolutions And the secondary jets should i go to a stage 1 or 2 ?
I still take those one step at a time. Make the change and drive. Better? Go to the next one. Repeat!
Why can't I get my 67 Pontiac to idle ? Have new 750cfm eldebrock, electric choke , have no vaccuum leaks , throttle adjustment is half way of the transfer slot . Don't want to go any farther, timing is set to max advance. Idles at 550 rpm (bearly) in neutral. Cuts off in drive . Engine rebuilt !
Need some more details. What size engine are you working on? What is your initial advance set to?
I have a AVS2 800cfm on my Pontiac 496 stoker motor. mild cam. I bought this carb brand new and have had i on about 6 months. I'm having a surge at idle. When it warms up it goes away for the most part. I can't seem to get this carb to idle smooth as well. I checked for vacuum leaks and have found none.
Please help!
What is your fuel pressure set to? What is your initial timing set at?
Is there a way I can temporarily set up the electric choke in order to move the car because I can't find any videos on you tube about a temporary solution. plz help
Not sure I understand. What do you mean by “temporarily set up” the electric choke?
I’m having an issue with the primary jets dumping fuel into the carb. Isn’t it correct that the primary jets are suppose to spray a mist of fuel and not drip? Also, how can I fix that?
I’m a little confused by the question. I’ll assume you don’t have an over fueling issue and you’re just asking about how fuel is delivered through the booster. What type of boosters do you have? There is no pressure behind the fuel in the bowl, only atmospheric pressure. They don’t spray in nice pretty patterns. Fuel injectors do though!
I’m sorry.... it’s the primary Venturi boosters that are doing this. Do you know if they are suppose to spray fuel, or if the drip down the fuel into the engine? Also, how do you get them to work properly?
@@bikemanon22s ok I’ll assume they’re straight or downleg style boosters. Yes, they drip if you’re just hanging over the fender looking at them. There isn’t enough airspeed and load on the engine to pull the way they do under normal operation. You’re not going to see how it flows under full operation unless you’re in a dyno and can lean over and see under load.
Re check your level after you set the drop. Seems ya always mess it up in the process of setting float droop, Tell us , what percent of time is\the level different after you set drop.
I don’t mess up float level after setting drop. They’re really very independent of each other. It’s really impossible to alter one when setting the other.
Can you link a fuel pressure gauge from amazon I can buy for my 1406?
amzn.to/3OymR30
Good liquid filled one that I use.
Accelerator pump Rod height
What does float drop d0
Sets the floor for fuel level.
I have been trying to get part number 1475 for the 4300 squirter for my 650 avs2. Over 7 months I have been trying to get it but nobody has it. I just bought a 670 advenger and this avs2 is going in the dumpster due that I can't get parts for it. The transition is horrible.
What engine is it on? What trans? What kind of driving?
Drill out an old one off an AFB.
I'm running a 1806 650cfm on my 460. It's running rich. I have adjusted the idle mixture screws and it's still running rich. I also have to pump the gas about 6 different times to get it to start every morning. I'm not a carburetor Wizz. Any idea where to start?
@@dellgregg4663 hard to say. What’s your fuel pressure at the carburetor? What’s your initial timing set at? Have you set the floats?