I worked in a particularly blue nitrous product for a fairly well known aftermarket company, and my supervisor used those nitrous filters on his C10 custom for both fuel and a 150 shot, said it was one of those purchases that you never really think about until it becomes a problem. Plus with our factory discount he picked em up real cheap (you can too through their ebay "scratch and dent" sales), his methodology behind it was that it was a part that he would never have to buy again for the life of the truck (much as you said), and one of those things that a budget build probably should just break down and get. Nickle's and dime's will get you in the long run, and it is simply one less problem to solve, just to add something to those they are rated around 5000psi for the brass/bronze filter component itself (the body is rated at like 13k). Also a side note, blue lock-tite makes an excellent sealing agent for nitrous components (it was what we used as factory for the bottle valve assemblies, and plate fittings), as well you don't need an Aluminum wrench just get some thick pieces of denim or floor mat rubber to tighten the end caps to not mar the hexes. Edit: Check the urethane/nylon gasket inside, it's the only component that will ever really fail (it might get pinched or just degrade over time, but they cost like 3 cents to replace, do not attempt to use rubber or the afore mentioned lock-tite because they double as a spacer for the brass/bronze mesh) if you care for the filter.
I used a glass filter instead of the Rodchester 4bbl built in filter for years, no problem. I especially like the glass filter on my Simplicity lawn tractor. First glass filter I owned came off a 69 Roadrunner in a junkyard.
My buddy had a glass inline filter on his hot rod back in the 80's... He was driving it to work one day when he noticed flames flying by his window. The filter had cracked and sprayed gas over one of the headers (fortunately he didn't run a hood ). He pulled over immediately, had a pair of spare pants in the car and beat out the flames. One fender and a running board had been damaged. Although bummed, he said it was cool to have a car with a real "flame job"! 😆
Being a Dodge guy I’ve had my fair share of vapor lock issues. I found the best way to stop the issue was a rotary vane fuel pump installed near the tank and run rubber hose all the way from the pump to the carb. This all but eliminated my daily summer vapor lock troubles.
I had one of those glass filters shatter on a 383 MoPar! I thought I liked it, but it seemed finicky and prone to leak; and then my fuel line job let it rattle on the intake manifold and break. I needed a tow that day. The metal type hasn't let me down.
I had a glass filter cause a engine fire and wrecked the paint on my hood and fender. One of the o rings failed, dripped gas on the hot header and caused a small fire. That fire caused the glass to get hot and burst dumping a lot of fuel on to the header. The fuel pump was running dumping a lot of gas onto the header feeding the fire. Luckily I was in my driveway and was able to kill the engine and to get a hose and get the fire out before my car get damaged any worse than it was. Once bitten twice shy I have never used a glass filter again.
I had one of those glass filters once. It failed. Not the glass, but the metal tube inside let go, one end popped off of the filter and I had gas all over the place. Great. Maybe a one-off defect, but the glass filters were banned from my engine after that.
Never had an issue with a glass filter. They are cheap, so I buy a new one, and change it out every so often. After I replace one, I save the old ones, after cleaning, for spares, for yard equipment, or the generator. Never had one leak or break, in 50 years. Just keep an eye on them...just like everything else.
I'm super finicky about keeping things neat under the hood. I'm also die-hard about filtration. When building my 289 Mustang, I didn't want to have a generic looking plastic fuel filter. So after some research, I found a fuel pump for a 390 Thunderbird which came w/ optional integrated filter element. It spun on the bottom and was the size of a small oil filter. Looked factory, filtered great and you can spin off to inspect inside. And also ended the great debate of filter before or after the pump.
@@Ecosse57 The bolt pattern for the pump is the same but the pump arm is slightly different on the FE than the SBF. Seems like it works though if he's using it.
A good solution to vapor lock on the carburetor side, from which I can vouch from personal experience, is to install a thermal barrier in place of the carb gasket. My solution was a 3/4" plywood "gasket". The more professional solution is to buy a phenolic type spacer and install it underneath your carb. Raising the hood hinges so you have about 1/4" to 1/2" of an air gap between the hood and firewall also helps tremendously with underhood temps & airflow(also personal experience)
I just answered you, the other day. Who pulled my comment? You could get one of these carburetor bases and run water through it which has been pumped through a small cooler placed in front of your radiator: i.imgur.com/rGhdhLz.jpg
I installed one of those glass fuel filters on my old Ford garden tractor just as a lark. I ran it one summer and tossed it. I couldn't get the damned thing tight enough that it would leak like crazy. I finally just put a standard plastic filter and haven't had an issue since.
I've never seen one of those glass filters break either, but every single one I've ever seen has leaked in the exact way you're describing and they do it over and over because the glass cuts into the seals. I'm not a fan. If you need one as a diagnostic tool for a temporary issue, fine, but I'd never trust one. FWIW, Edelbrock markets an aluminum housing, reusable element, filter body for street/stock motors that actually isn't that expensive ($20).
Years ago I had one of those glass filters loosen and leak fuel under the hood of my firebird, I noticed later my friend was using one on his car. I told him those things will leak. A few months later I saw him. he told me I was right that his had come apart also. Those foam edelbrock air filters with the metal screen over them should be avoided, I had the foam catch fire luckily I was able to lift the hood and put it out. I would not ever use either one again.
I've been running a glass filter for years in my 78 f100 . It has helped me find issues with the fuel system several times. Never an issue with it in 70 thousand miles.
You'll never have a problem until you do. And then 70K miles means nothing. I knew a guy who was an 'expert' on firearms. I told him something he didn't consider once, that the operation of his rifle was more than just chamber pressure, there was a gas port and he was taking a risk by not considering anything but chamber pressure: the operating rod was accelerating well past its design intent. I told him how to avoid any issues and why the gas expansion rate of powders produced today were the root, not his overall ammunition choice or chamber pressure safety margin. "I've never had a problem" was his "expert" reply. And he will never have a problem until that oprod smacks him as it de-tracks from the bolt. Then the thousands of rounds during which he "had no problems" won't mean a thing. He won't get hurt much, a bruise on the cheek probably. And then I'm sure it will be the rifle's fault.
@@4spdlife857 Cheap and easy insurance for sure, but a QUALITY gasket made of an appropriate material for the fuel will last a ridiculously long time. Fuel injected cars have been using those types of seals for several decades at way higher pressures and they hardly ever fail on their own even after 20-30 years. But that's OEM grade seals. With low quality or improperly formulated seals, degradation is a real concern.
The glass filter either the seals leak or the element collapses, had a piece of the end seal hang a float needle open. Turned the secondary bowl vent into a drinking fountain, luckily it was caught before the open headers lit it up.
7:45 Brass Moraine is the type of element used in the "Nitrous" filters. The same material used in many smaller sized fuel filters. Holley used to put small brass moraine filters at the inlet of the center hung bowl style carburetors, one at each inlet.
Finally SOMEONE defends the glass fuel filter! Get a good one with the barbs cast into the ends and NO plastic pieces, lube the o-rings prior to assembly (Dow Corning Molykote 55). Ran one in a V8 Monza for years, never had a leak, always worked well.
I had one of the glass filters come apart and dump fuel everywhere. It was not due to not being tight enough, but the alcohol in the fuel attached and ate away the threads on the die cast end caps (male & female). They may have fixed the problem by now, but at this point you couldn't pay me to use one again.
Those threads are fragile, over torque them and they will fail. All mine were older MrGasket brand. Possibly the alloy was more resistant to the ethanol. Many manufacturers make that design now.
@@schlomoshekelstein908 Short answer: YES. the alcohol that may be found in gasoline today CAN attack metals, including steel and aluminum. A water solubility issue can exist, as well as excess dissolute oxygen, and that can even cause stress cracking in steel. STEEL? Yes, STEEL as well. Source: The Pipeline Research Council International and the U.S. Department of Transportation's Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration found, quote: "We found that dissolved oxygen in ethanol causes cracking and if oxygen can be removed, cracking can be prevented. This and other engineering measures can form the basis for safe transport of ethanol," Thanks for asking.
I got one of those glass fuel filters in my Christmas stocking one year. If I remember correctly it was made by Spectre. It had different screw in adapters, so you could use whatever size fuel line you happen to have,I used the 3/8. Anyway I used that fuel filter on a 77 Blazer. It worked fine until about 6 months later. The heat from the engine made those plastic adapters brittle and one of them broke, spraying gas all over the engine compartment. Luckily I had a fire extinguisher, otherwise that truck would have burnt down to the ground. Needless to say, I didn't make it to work that day.🤣 Anyway, if you use one of those glass filters. I strongly recommend getting the one that has all metal ends where the fuel hose hooks up, or replace the plastic ones with brass ones. I'm sure the glass filters are just fine, but I've never used one again since that happened. Those cheap chrome fuel pressure regulators don't last long either. They leak after awhile
Great stuff, brother! I've been out of the loop for a long time. My last real classic got sold 12 years ago, and I kick myself in the ass every single day for that ... The only weak point on the glass ones is if you get a cheap one with plastic nipples. Those SUCK! They'll break when you least expect it years down the road after you've long forgotten about installing it. I've run those filters for years - never had an issue until I got one with plastic nipples. JUNK! All metal is good - even pot metal is better than plastic. Never broke the glass on one in 2 decades of using them. Been about that long since I've bought one, so I don't know what's out there today. Most parts are hit or miss these days, so shopping around is the best bet. I always loved glass for a quick and easy glance of what might be headed toward my carb..
My issue with the glass filters, from experience is if your car sits for like a month or so the orings shrink, and leak horribly until you pop the hood and tighten it.
I would never use a glass filter like the one you showed. When I bought my car 3 years ago I smelled gas. I opened the hood and gas was leaking from it. Inspected and found the ends were leaking and the glass was not broke. Ends were tight and seals were good. I just was coming apart. Replaced with 2 Holley inline filters.
I had an 86 Regal that I swapped and Olds 350. Glass filter split and sprayed fuel everywhere. Thankfully it was with the hood open after a tube up. Mounted in a safe spot. Nothing hit it, it was idling and just failed. Won’t use them anymore. Thanks for the great videos. Just wanted to share my experience.
Had my Nova burn down from a glass filter in the 80s. May get away with a Sunday cruiser but not a 24/7 daily driver hot rod that gets driven alot. Never again.
them glass filters dont break but have seen 4 cars start on fire because they vibrate and unscrew i remove every one i find they are very hard to break though
I always try to keep to the "use less than 6 inches total of rubber hose" rule the NHRA uses. I would bend hard steel line with AN fittings and steel braded hose for flex points where possible, I cringe when ever I see 3 feet of rubber hose and a cheap plastic filter running past the hot exhaust hedders up to the carb
I've had had a couple of these glass filters and both eventually broke the glass cylinder. I solved this by cutting a piece of aluminum tubing as a replacement. The nylon type filter mine came with was so fine, nothing gets through to stick your float valve open but they clog quickly due to the small surface area.
I derby cars and I run a glass filter on my car and I have never had a problem with it only thing I do to protect it is zip tie it up with a peace of rubber as a cushion under it so every time I see a comment or a video about the glass filter being dangerous or some one talking down on them I laugh my but off
Great idea on using the glas type the power steering return, especially with a magnet. I’m about to rebuild a steering box and pump so will give this a try!
There's always going to be microfine steel slurry from wear, tear, and break-in flying around in there. Larger stuff can come from burrs on the fitting threads getting knocked off, grit falling in from the filler cap, etc. I started doing this after the classic GM morning sickness killed my rack and all the debris promptly killed the pump in turn. Honestly, building (even a small) hydraulic system without a filter is as goofy as building engines without full oil pressure gauges.
I worked at a parts store during the rise of e10 ethanol fuel. Started having an epidemic of fuel filter failures, between plastic Purolator and the Mr. gasket/ Spectre glass fuel filter. The new fuel was just eating away the guys inside these filters. Turned a lot of my customers away from them permanently. It was surprising to me how long it took Puralator to fix the issue, it took months. Mr. gasket took years to fix it. Even once Mr. gasket solved the issue, I would often turn customers away from the glass filter. Not because of the glass mind you, but because the parts store would only carry the filter that came with plastic interchangeable nipples. Those nipples were made of the cheapest plastic there was, and would always leak or crack. If you do go with the glass, get the ones with fixed size metal ends.
@@oldblueaccord2629 the purolator 3/8 filter I believe was a f21111, 5/16 filter was a f20011, I forget the 1/4” one but it comes up under a 70’s vw beetle as the factory replacement. My numbers might be off but I think that’s correct, it’s been about 10 years lol
On my bracket racer back in the 1970's, I used a Holley electric fuel pump with separate pressure regulator followed by dual clear plastic fuel filters (one filter leading to each fuel bowl on the Holley Double Pumper). The fuel filters would normally show having been half-filled with gasoline with an air or vapor space. However, at the drag strip when the cool can was filled with ice, the filters became full of fuel, with no space evident showing the air and/or vapor had been eliminated.
UTG had a one of those glass hot rod filters on my 65 GMC when I got it, seals were bad, replaced it with an Edelbrock AL filter, no leaks after that. Worth it!
One of the most recent Chinesium fails I’ve had was a failed plastic fuel filter that melted together on the tank side. Couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t getting fuel 1 month later. Apparently the plastic wasn’t resistant to gasoline.
I had the same thing happen, Chinese chrome fuel filter looks awesome in the chrome dressed up 350 engine until the engine starts jerking itself out few weeks later. Cut the fuel filter, the element inside just broke to pieces causing the fragments to enter the carb. NEVER again, NEVER.
I've found that the main cause of glass filters cracking is from overtightening. 5-10 lb/ft is all it needs, or the easy way is finger tight plus 1/4 turn
Glass filter location and mounting is the most critical part of their failures in my experience. I usually have an electric pump, so mounting the filter on a non-vibrating location, and letting the rubber line sections absorb the vibrations has been very successful. NEVER any issues. Benefit outweighs the negatives, at least for me. It’s all about monitoring your equipment, and acting accordingly. Neglect=issues.
In regards to the plastic filters, as a fireman, I have seen them burn a few cars down (and one brand new zero turn mower), I use the metal ones. If I suspect a water or fuel supply issue, I'll just pull it off and get a sample. Plastic not worth the risk to me.
I used to run the in-line clear plastic ones on a straight six with a mechanical fuel pump on the draw side not on the pump side. I reckon they were pretty good
I’ve had ONE of those exact same glass filters crack in almost 50 years as a mechanic. One. Meanwhile I’ve seen dozens of steel, plastic and various cartridge design filters crack, split and fail. I’ll stick with a pyrex glass filter. You can service the filter element and replace the o-rings before the rubber degrades.
Years ago ,my first car , a 72 Demon had rust in the tank, and it would somehow get past the fuel filter and get between the needle and seat causing it to flood out. I tried several different types of filters and it got through all of them. The only thing that solved the problem was dropping the gas tank ,dumping it and flushing it out.
After one year with glass filter. Best thing about the glass was I could see the o-rings starting to melt from the ethanol in fuel here in Canada. Been using Earls aluminum filter with brass element ever since. Why risk the chance of fire to see the fuel in the filter? Not worth burning up my mopar.
I’ve been using the glass type filter since 84. I’m a carb guy, and have always used mechanical pumps. I’m still running my engine that I rebuilt in 85. I’ve freshened it up a couple of times since then, but in the summer it runs about 230 degrees. I’ve been fortunate enough not to have vapor lock problems. I’ve always had a 1” phenolic spacer under my carb, and I’ve been using a RPM Air Gap intake for about 20 years now. I still like the glas type filter. The only problem I ever had with one was when I tried to tighten it down too much, and stripped the threads. That was probably 15 years ago. I bought another glass filter, and still haven’t had a problem with it since
I was running a strait 6 on my boat . I installed the glass filter and after a run to Buffalo on way back motor died? Filter was full of sand? Removed sand started right up.
I used a glass fuell filter on my 4x4. Never worried about it leaking or breaking. Before I replaced my fuel tank, that little thing saved my comute. It'd fill up with sand half way to work exery day. Id just pull over, swap in a new filter and be on my way. When I got home, id take same carb cleaner and clean the days used filters to get them ready for the next day. Boy was I glad when my new gas tank arrived and i was able to solve my dirty fuel issues once and for all. The old tank had holes rusted in it, allowing sand to fall in from the top. Im sure some of my gas would splash out as well. If you are using a glass filter, just make sure to take a look at the gasket every once in a while to make sure its not cracking and you'll be fine. I have seen some where the rubber was all dried out and it was leaking through the gasket.
Thanks for the video and dispelling any rumors. As for vapor lock, we used to put wooden clothes pins clipped to the fuel lines and though not perfect, it did help dissipate heat before the gas got to the carb. 😊
Thanks to your 8 dollar cure video, I ran a return line from my carburetor and used a tee to connect it to the tank and used a 1980 Cordoba fuel filter to connect to carb. No more hard starting problems in the heat for my '68 Fury VIP (318, 2 barrel) Thanks!
The glass filter I run mine between the frame and pump on my '71 340 Duster plus the original one. I do that so if it does break or leak, it will just run out of gas and die.
BEWARE of the glass filters that have PLASTIC ADAPTERS for different fuel line sizes as they can crack-. Dumping fuel on the engine if it's near the carb. Unfortunately this happened to me a few years ago and it ignited due to a bad hot wire that was jumping to ground and caused an instant fire under the hood! We got it out fast, and found the problems, fortunately not too much damage.
Been watching your posts over the last few days and I can't say enough about how though your videos are. I've got a 58 chevy with vapor lock issues that have been driving me crazy! Thanks for proventing a potential heart attack 😊
I used to do a lot of tricks with fuel filter on Old carbureted vehicles someone use for pressure relief show my use between the gas tank and fuel pump between the fuel pump and carburetor combination of both sometimes when the fuel pumps. Not brand-new.
Canister cartridge inline filter on an 80's vintage motorhome. Got bad gas and found myself stuck thinking I had to replace the filter. TH-cam informed me I was wrong. Go under vehicle with Solo cup, unscrew cartridge and pour gas into cup and water onto the ground, take filter element off, bang it on the ground, blow through it and put it back on, pour gas back into canister and replace fingers tight only as it has a rubber seal. Start engine and drive away. Filter medium is near indestructible and separates water. Now I know. I used to replace them. No one ever told me because they were making a sale.
I had an issue 2 years ago on my 361 Chrysler in my grain truck where I could get out on the road drive about a half mile and it would die. Turned out the new inline fuel filter I got at advance would not flow enough fuel to keep up with engine demand since that engine runs wide open all the time in that big heavy truck. I never would have thought it because it looked the same as the one I took off and you could blow thru it easy.
I use the Pyrex glass see thru filter on my vintage vehicle I love it because I can see dirt specs when the filter gets dirty The filter is easy to remove and take apart and wash under warm water, I Let it dry and put it back in the vehicle ,they last forever just inspect the o rings make sure that they’re not brittle My filter is been going for years about 10 years and I’m a Sunday driver no problems I will keep using it. It’s a good idea to inspect the filter when the vehicle is running before you take it out for a drive to make sure that there are no leaks at the fuel filter I’ve never had any problems but inspections on this filter are needed to make sure that there are no leaks.
I do not see an issue as long as they're properly installed. I've seen glass float bowls before, had one on an old truck which was quite handy for seeing if you had fuel or not :)
I was a firefighter (retired) for a large fire dept and went on MANY vehicle fires. I never saw one of the glass fuel filters be the cause. All of the old cars had glass fuel filters, many right on the fuel pump Thanks for the review
The best fuel filter I have seen is a Malpassi Filter King. They were fitted as standard on my 1st 3 cars - 1960s - 70s Alfa Romeos. They had a glass bowel which separated any water, a replaceable paper element and an adjustable preassure regulator in the top of the body. They are still available more than 50 years later.
My goodness you just reminded me of my old 1974 Alfa gtv 2000 I used to own it had the Malpassi system and worked great. Sure miss the car. Was looking at installing something on my Buick Wildcat and might just retrofit this on the firewall
Good video. I’m currently going through the “choose the right filter” process on my project truck. In doing so I’m getting educated on AN fittings and higher end fuel systems. However, I plan to stick with steel brake/tube line with flare fittings and metal inline filter. It would be really helpful if you could make video about AN fittings, adapters, and fuel lines, both rigid and flexible options. A lot of parts sellers don’t include much spec info on their fittings so it’s hard to tell what’s compatible. Thanks and keep sharing your knowledge!
Years ago i had a '69 A100 van with a slant that ran sweet but had a badly decomposing fuel tank. I took it & a tow dolly to fetch a friend's Mustang near Hazard Kentucky. It took me about 13 of those plastic filters to get back home to Guntersville Alabama. (About 50 mi. per, till one would rust shut).
Glass filters are the way to go. Run one on my jet boat that's got a pretty crusty tank in it. I can pull the filter apart clean it out all while in the middle of a lake. And then continue my weekend fun.
I picked up an old Carter glass (bowl) fuel filter this summer at an antique shop, complete with a permeable ceramic element...not sure what I'll put it on (a tractor maybe?) but it looks really cool! Cheers!
Late '90's I had a small aluminum filter. Blue anodized with a ceramic filter element. (porous sintered bronze) Looked great under the hood. They had a problem with the O ring... (officially) It didn't squish, it looped out... and eventually filled the valleys on the intake with gas. It then ignited. I had a small extinguisher, and the damage wasn't too bad. Lots of wires, and a few carb parts, and of course the air filter caught too.
I like the glass filters. The new ones are trash because some of them come with plastic nipples so it's a universal kit. You can source brass nipples or buy the size specific one that you need.
When using a carb and mechanical fuel pump, I like using the stock metal AMC V8 fuel filter that has a return line built in to prevent vapor lock. Mount it as close to the carb inlet as possible; regulates the pressure and easy on the pump. Might be good for clackity electric pumps too since fuel would constanly flow at an easy pressure and cool the pump.
I run a standard inline filter before the fuel pump above the bottom of the frame rail. Then I do something I have never seen or heard of anyone else doing. After the fuel pump I have a pressure regulator and then after that I have a fuel injection filter. Now there is never any little flakes of rust in the bottom of the bowls as usual after a long time with an old car. Fuel injection filters are high flow and very fine. All they let through is gas. I just rebuilt my carb and there was not one flake in the bottom of the bowl. Keep garbage from the fuel pump valves and from the needle and seat, then the carb just flows gas only.
The screw together fuel filters with a glass worked great for the most part, biggest problem I ever had was them coming unscrewed at either end. That was more dangerous than the glass ever breaking.
I run a glass filter between the tank and the motor on my boat. It's never once given me an issue. I love that thing because I can see if there's any trash in the fuel tank, and I can make sure I have 2 stroke oil in the tank as the fuel turns blue when it has oil added to it
When I got my Ramcharger it had a Edlebrock set up on her it ran great till one day it vapor locked I took off the filter which has that extra spigot, put it back on. I continued to have the problem ,one day I put on a regular in and out filter with no vapor return and no more vapor lock!
That same color plastic filter is OEM on imports into 1960's and before. I like the metal filters but not all created for the low 4/6 PSI carb. Isuzu used these with Flat Corbin clamps on TBI in 1991 and 32-34 EFI multiport in 1993 but had 70 micro media and magnet in side. These and plastic ones work on P/S return hoses as well as orifice tubes at the inlet. The glass filters are fine but leak. Nobody wants to toque them and specs are not included! Metal ones with 3 tubes in todays "LS" engine craziness I would expect to have the guts of a regular inside. A spring, diaphragm, viton needle & seat with a set pressure used for return. But the screw-in type with line wrenches and others alway bothered me during removal as fu l runs down the arms into the pits. Skin can be sensitive but you smell like gas as day. I would guess that a quart is in those lines and comes downhill. Waste oil can & trans fluid pan can work but I have tied shop rags to my wrists to stop it. There with no pressure and fuel tank cap on hold a lot. There deserve a shut off ball valve front & rear but but this adds $20 extra if you can find them. Perfect! As automotive tech we have more science, math and other disciplines required of use everyday than a Dr. What temp does water boil at? Well; Is water water mixed with anti-freeze or contained. Is it under pressure, sea level or below sea level or a vacuum. The pressure cap raises the boiling point 3 1/4 degree F per pound, so 15 PSI cap causes it to boil at 260 degrees F. That is why grandma's pressure cooker was so fast. Place in a vacuum and has less pressure to hold the hydrocarbons chains together, so a 3 minute egg boils faster at Pikes Peak or 14,000 feet. Between the gas tank and pump at the engine, rubber is better than steel maybe because of insulation, but at 10PM in Vegas at 100 degrees F, the fuel can boil in a vacuum. This is not a good fuel supply. Many variables play with the exact number, but this is vapor lock. Electric pressure pumps where placed in tanks for years on the first EFI engine, to supply a frame mounted pump in rubber to produce the pressure needed for proper fuel delivery and vapor lock happens for this reason! Thanks, UTG again. DK. Omaha.
On Race Week , Got some bad gas in Oklahoma… disassembled my glass fuel filter, Little bit of carb cleaner and a toothbrush! Back on the road! (had to get a new toothbrush)😂
I just took one of the glass mr gasket filters off my buddies car about a week ago 408 Ford stroker. Totally clogged up they get full really quick. I put one of those plastic wix 33003 on it. I like those for my carb stuff they flow well and seem to catch all the crud. Nice to be able to see it.
Uncle Tony l have been using the glass barrel type filters on my outboard powered drag boats for many years as a prefilter right out of the tank as they are only 20 micron rated. I use an aluminum billet filter from Summit rated at 5 micron after the glass filter and before the electric fuel pump so they are NOT pressurized. Never a problem and these boats move around a LOT! LOL
I forgot which store it was but I bought a stone style filter (was about half the size) and it screwed together, it’s cleanable like that one but it’s made for fuel, works great
I have fitted a marine spin on fuel/water separator filter to two carbureted automotive applications. If you have a clean fuel tank the filter element basically lasts forever and it's easily serviceable with a new spin on filter. Note I used the filter setup without the plastic water separator/drain on the bottom of the element. It's been working great for years now.
David Vizard is modifying every functional part of mission impossible. He uploaded a truly impressive carburetor video today. Really one of the best videos I've seen. That NOS filter is interesting. I didn't know about those or the big daddy oil filter style fuel filters. Thanks for another good video.
I worked in a particularly blue nitrous product for a fairly well known aftermarket company, and my supervisor used those nitrous filters on his C10 custom for both fuel and a 150 shot, said it was one of those purchases that you never really think about until it becomes a problem. Plus with our factory discount he picked em up real cheap (you can too through their ebay "scratch and dent" sales), his methodology behind it was that it was a part that he would never have to buy again for the life of the truck (much as you said), and one of those things that a budget build probably should just break down and get. Nickle's and dime's will get you in the long run, and it is simply one less problem to solve, just to add something to those they are rated around 5000psi for the brass/bronze filter component itself (the body is rated at like 13k). Also a side note, blue lock-tite makes an excellent sealing agent for nitrous components (it was what we used as factory for the bottle valve assemblies, and plate fittings), as well you don't need an Aluminum wrench just get some thick pieces of denim or floor mat rubber to tighten the end caps to not mar the hexes.
Edit: Check the urethane/nylon gasket inside, it's the only component that will ever really fail (it might get pinched or just degrade over time, but they cost like 3 cents to replace, do not attempt to use rubber or the afore mentioned lock-tite because they double as a spacer for the brass/bronze mesh) if you care for the filter.
Great info...thank you! I'll pin this
@@UncleTonysGarage Shweet, much appreciated Uncle Tony, hope it helps someone with their budget build going forward.
@@UncleTonysGarage Thanks for the pin. I never thought about filtering the Nitrous.
Nice post
Wow
Finally someone who does not hate the glass fuel filters for no reason. Good video.
Well, they are heavier. Weight robs horsepower at the wheels
I’m still not going to run one only because I don’t want to hear people telling me my cars going to burn down. Don’t have the energy to argue anymore.
@@al_dente4777 weight doesnt rob horsepower
I used a glass filter instead of the Rodchester 4bbl built in filter for years, no problem. I especially like the glass filter on my Simplicity lawn tractor. First glass filter I owned came off a 69 Roadrunner in a junkyard.
@@dand3975 I only use plastic or glass on the vaccume side and a metal fuel filter on the pressure side. Never had a problem with them.
Derek from VGG calls those glass filters the ex girlfriend that’ll burn your car down lol
My buddy had a glass inline filter on his hot rod back in the 80's... He was driving it to work one day when he noticed flames flying by his window. The filter had cracked and sprayed gas over one of the headers (fortunately he didn't run a hood ). He pulled over immediately, had a pair of spare pants in the car and beat out the flames. One fender and a running board had been damaged. Although bummed, he said it was cool to have a car with a real "flame job"! 😆
I bet he also used the spare pair of pants afterwards 🤣🤣
@@diesel7903 😆
I allways heard you could clip some wooden clothes pins on the steal fuel line at the carb to help with vapor lock I tried it seems like it helped.
@scott offord that is cheaper than a pair of pants, and it is much better for putting out a fire.
Yeah, I do the same with all my vehicles
Being a Dodge guy I’ve had my fair share of vapor lock issues. I found the best way to stop the issue was a rotary vane fuel pump installed near the tank and run rubber hose all the way from the pump to the carb. This all but eliminated my daily summer vapor lock troubles.
I had one of those glass filters shatter on a 383 MoPar! I thought I liked it, but it seemed finicky and prone to leak; and then my fuel line job let it rattle on the intake manifold and break. I needed a tow that day. The metal type hasn't let me down.
I had a glass filter cause a engine fire and wrecked the paint on my hood and fender. One of the o rings failed, dripped gas on the hot header and caused a small fire. That fire caused the glass to get hot and burst dumping a lot of fuel on to the header. The fuel pump was running dumping a lot of gas onto the header feeding the fire. Luckily I was in my driveway and was able to kill the engine and to get a hose and get the fire out before my car get damaged any worse than it was. Once bitten twice shy I have never used a glass filter again.
I had one of those glass filters once. It failed. Not the glass, but the metal tube inside let go, one end popped off of the filter and I had gas all over the place. Great. Maybe a one-off defect, but the glass filters were banned from my engine after that.
Never had an issue with a glass filter.
They are cheap, so I buy a new one, and change it out every so often.
After I replace one, I save the old ones, after cleaning, for spares, for yard equipment, or the generator.
Never had one leak or break, in 50 years.
Just keep an eye on them...just like everything else.
I'm super finicky about keeping things neat under the hood. I'm also die-hard about filtration. When building my 289 Mustang, I didn't want to have a generic looking plastic fuel filter. So after some research, I found a fuel pump for a 390 Thunderbird which came w/ optional integrated filter element. It spun on the bottom and was the size of a small oil filter. Looked factory, filtered great and you can spin off to inspect inside. And also ended the great debate of filter before or after the pump.
the early 289s came with the same type of filter/pump. didn't know the 390 pump would fit the 289 series though.
@@Ecosse57 The bolt pattern for the pump is the same but the pump arm is slightly different on the FE than the SBF. Seems like it works though if he's using it.
A good solution to vapor lock on the carburetor side, from which I can vouch from personal experience, is to install a thermal barrier in place of the carb gasket. My solution was a 3/4" plywood "gasket". The more professional solution is to buy a phenolic type spacer and install it underneath your carb.
Raising the hood hinges so you have about 1/4" to 1/2" of an air gap between the hood and firewall also helps tremendously with underhood temps & airflow(also personal experience)
I just answered you, the other day. Who pulled my comment? You could get one of these carburetor bases and run water through it which has been pumped through a small cooler placed in front of your radiator: i.imgur.com/rGhdhLz.jpg
I installed one of those glass fuel filters on my old Ford garden tractor just as a lark. I ran it one summer and tossed it. I couldn't get the damned thing tight enough that it would leak like crazy. I finally just put a standard plastic filter and haven't had an issue since.
I've never seen one of those glass filters break either, but every single one I've ever seen has leaked in the exact way you're describing and they do it over and over because the glass cuts into the seals. I'm not a fan. If you need one as a diagnostic tool for a temporary issue, fine, but I'd never trust one.
FWIW, Edelbrock markets an aluminum housing, reusable element, filter body for street/stock motors that actually isn't that expensive ($20).
Years ago I had one of those glass filters loosen and leak fuel under the hood of my firebird, I noticed later my friend was using one on his car. I told him those things will leak. A few months later I saw him. he told me I was right that his had come apart also. Those foam edelbrock air filters with the metal screen over them should be avoided, I had the foam catch fire luckily I was able to lift the hood and put it out. I would not ever use either one again.
I've been running a glass filter for years in my 78 f100 . It has helped me find issues with the fuel system several times. Never an issue with it in 70 thousand miles.
You'll never have a problem until you do. And then 70K miles means nothing. I knew a guy who was an 'expert' on firearms. I told him something he didn't consider once, that the operation of his rifle was more than just chamber pressure, there was a gas port and he was taking a risk by not considering anything but chamber pressure: the operating rod was accelerating well past its design intent. I told him how to avoid any issues and why the gas expansion rate of powders produced today were the root, not his overall ammunition choice or chamber pressure safety margin. "I've never had a problem" was his "expert" reply. And he will never have a problem until that oprod smacks him as it de-tracks from the bolt. Then the thousands of rounds during which he "had no problems" won't mean a thing. He won't get hurt much, a bruise on the cheek probably. And then I'm sure it will be the rifle's fault.
@@bbb462cid that's why I replace the two gaskets every other oil change
@@4spdlife857 Cheap and easy insurance for sure, but a QUALITY gasket made of an appropriate material for the fuel will last a ridiculously long time. Fuel injected cars have been using those types of seals for several decades at way higher pressures and they hardly ever fail on their own even after 20-30 years. But that's OEM grade seals. With low quality or improperly formulated seals, degradation is a real concern.
70k.
My car has 70k when it was 3 years old.
Yeah its kinda like plane crashes. Most people go tits up another way
The glass filter either the seals leak or the element collapses, had a piece of the end seal hang a float needle open. Turned the secondary bowl vent into a drinking fountain, luckily it was caught before the open headers lit it up.
7:45 Brass Moraine is the type of element used in the "Nitrous" filters. The same material used in many smaller sized fuel filters. Holley used to put small brass moraine filters at the inlet of the center hung bowl style carburetors, one at each inlet.
Old GM too
Finally SOMEONE defends the glass fuel filter! Get a good one with the barbs cast into the ends and NO plastic pieces, lube the o-rings prior to assembly (Dow Corning Molykote 55). Ran one in a V8 Monza for years, never had a leak, always worked well.
I've used those glass filters on every car I've put an aftermarket carb on. No leaks no fires. I'll add that some guys could screw up a wet dream.
✌😁🍩
I had one of the glass filters come apart and dump fuel everywhere. It was not due to not being tight enough, but the alcohol in the fuel attached and ate away the threads on the die cast end caps (male & female). They may have fixed the problem by now, but at this point you couldn't pay me to use one again.
This is exactly my experience.
Those threads are fragile, over torque them and they will fail. All mine were older MrGasket brand. Possibly the alloy was more resistant to the ethanol. Many manufacturers make that design now.
@@bbb462cid alcohol eats metal?
@@schlomoshekelstein908 Short answer: YES. the alcohol that may be found in gasoline today CAN attack metals, including steel and aluminum. A water solubility issue can exist, as well as excess dissolute oxygen, and that can even cause stress cracking in steel. STEEL? Yes, STEEL as well. Source:
The Pipeline Research Council International and the U.S. Department of Transportation's Pipeline and Hazardous Materials Safety Administration found, quote:
"We found that dissolved oxygen in ethanol causes cracking and if oxygen can be removed, cracking can be prevented. This and other engineering measures can form the basis for safe transport of ethanol,"
Thanks for asking.
@@schlomoshekelstein908 Yeah, something doesn't add up there. Maybe it was one of the ChiCom knockoffs with the plastic fittings at the ends.
I got one of those glass fuel filters in my Christmas stocking one year. If I remember correctly it was made by Spectre. It had different screw in adapters, so you could use whatever size fuel line you happen to have,I used the 3/8. Anyway I used that fuel filter on a 77 Blazer. It worked fine until about 6 months later. The heat from the engine made those plastic adapters brittle and one of them broke, spraying gas all over the engine compartment. Luckily I had a fire extinguisher, otherwise that truck would have burnt down to the ground. Needless to say, I didn't make it to work that day.🤣 Anyway, if you use one of those glass filters. I strongly recommend getting the one that has all metal ends where the fuel hose hooks up, or replace the plastic ones with brass ones. I'm sure the glass filters are just fine, but I've never used one again since that happened. Those cheap chrome fuel pressure regulators don't last long either. They leak after awhile
Great stuff, brother! I've been out of the loop for a long time. My last real classic got sold 12 years ago, and I kick myself in the ass every single day for that ...
The only weak point on the glass ones is if you get a cheap one with plastic nipples. Those SUCK! They'll break when you least expect it years down the road after you've long forgotten about installing it. I've run those filters for years - never had an issue until I got one with plastic nipples. JUNK! All metal is good - even pot metal is better than plastic. Never broke the glass on one in 2 decades of using them. Been about that long since I've bought one, so I don't know what's out there today. Most parts are hit or miss these days, so shopping around is the best bet. I always loved glass for a quick and easy glance of what might be headed toward my carb..
My issue with the glass filters, from experience is if your car sits for like a month or so the orings shrink, and leak horribly until you pop the hood and tighten it.
Are we talking New England or Florida weather?
I would never use a glass filter like the one you showed. When I bought my car 3 years ago I smelled gas. I opened the hood and gas was leaking from it. Inspected and found the ends were leaking and the glass was not broke. Ends were tight and seals were good. I just was coming apart. Replaced with 2 Holley inline filters.
I had an 86 Regal that I swapped and Olds 350. Glass filter split and sprayed fuel everywhere. Thankfully it was with the hood open after a tube up. Mounted in a safe spot. Nothing hit it, it was idling and just failed. Won’t use them anymore. Thanks for the great videos. Just wanted to share my experience.
Had my Nova burn down from a glass filter in the 80s. May get away with a Sunday cruiser but not a 24/7 daily driver hot rod that gets driven alot. Never again.
Glass ones leak every time, look cool in the flames though.
them glass filters dont break but have seen 4 cars start on fire because they vibrate and unscrew i remove every one i find they are very hard to break though
I always try to keep to the "use less than 6 inches total of rubber hose" rule the NHRA uses. I would bend hard steel line with AN fittings and steel braded hose for flex points where possible, I cringe when ever I see 3 feet of rubber hose and a cheap plastic filter running past the hot exhaust hedders up to the carb
I've had had a couple of these glass filters and both eventually broke the glass cylinder. I solved this by cutting a piece of aluminum tubing as a replacement. The nylon type filter mine came with was so fine, nothing gets through to stick your float valve open but they clog quickly due to the small surface area.
I derby cars and I run a glass filter on my car and I have never had a problem with it only thing I do to protect it is zip tie it up with a peace of rubber as a cushion under it so every time I see a comment or a video about the glass filter being dangerous or some one talking down on them I laugh my but off
I run two glassies, one for fuel, one in the ps return line with a bar magnet zip tied to the glass tube. Always nice to see what's going on.
Great idea on using the glas type the power steering return, especially with a magnet. I’m about to rebuild a steering box and pump so will give this a try!
Whare dose the shavings that could get magnetized com from?
There's always going to be microfine steel slurry from wear, tear, and break-in flying around in there. Larger stuff can come from burrs on the fitting threads getting knocked off, grit falling in from the filler cap, etc. I started doing this after the classic GM morning sickness killed my rack and all the debris promptly killed the pump in turn. Honestly, building (even a small) hydraulic system without a filter is as goofy as building engines without full oil pressure gauges.
I worked at a parts store during the rise of e10 ethanol fuel. Started having an epidemic of fuel filter failures, between plastic Purolator and the Mr. gasket/ Spectre glass fuel filter. The new fuel was just eating away the guys inside these filters. Turned a lot of my customers away from them permanently. It was surprising to me how long it took Puralator to fix the issue, it took months. Mr. gasket took years to fix it. Even once Mr. gasket solved the issue, I would often turn customers away from the glass filter. Not because of the glass mind you, but because the parts store would only carry the filter that came with plastic interchangeable nipples. Those nipples were made of the cheapest plastic there was, and would always leak or crack. If you do go with the glass, get the ones with fixed size metal ends.
hey do you remember the part numbers? I run E85 and love to do a video of this.
@@oldblueaccord2629 the purolator 3/8 filter I believe was a f21111, 5/16 filter was a f20011, I forget the 1/4” one but it comes up under a 70’s vw beetle as the factory replacement. My numbers might be off but I think that’s correct, it’s been about 10 years lol
@@gcaprice406 Thanks! ill get some and try them in E85!
Virtually all of the original glass fuel filters were sediment bowls fed by gravity not installed on the pressure side.........
On my bracket racer back in the 1970's, I used a Holley electric fuel pump with separate pressure regulator followed by dual clear plastic fuel filters (one filter leading to each fuel bowl on the Holley Double Pumper). The fuel filters would normally show having been half-filled with gasoline with an air or vapor space. However, at the drag strip when the cool can was filled with ice, the filters became full of fuel, with no space evident showing the air and/or vapor had been eliminated.
The glass filter I had the threads pulled I guess from corrosion the two ends separated and dam near burnt my 68 charger to the ground
I had a glass filter and it came apart so no more and I always install a filter on the suction side of the fuel pump.
UTG had a one of those glass hot rod filters on my 65 GMC when I got it, seals were bad, replaced it with an Edelbrock AL filter, no leaks after that. Worth it!
One of the most recent Chinesium fails I’ve had was a failed plastic fuel filter that melted together on the tank side. Couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t getting fuel 1 month later. Apparently the plastic wasn’t resistant to gasoline.
@The Maverick Mechanic Wow! Got to love the crap that we are getting these days! Unbelievable!
Right on Mav. Even a WIX filter I bought was make in China. These damn greedy companies suck. So sick of it.
MAV, I know what you are saying. same thing actually, however, I also had a diaphram fail shortly later. so I wonder if oil was damaging it too
I had the same thing happen, Chinese chrome fuel filter looks awesome in the chrome dressed up 350 engine until the engine starts jerking itself out few weeks later. Cut the fuel filter, the element inside just broke to pieces causing the fragments to enter the carb. NEVER again, NEVER.
About as good as a chocolate fire guard
I've found that the main cause of glass filters cracking is from overtightening. 5-10 lb/ft is all it needs, or the easy way is finger tight plus 1/4 turn
Glass filter location and mounting is the most critical part of their failures in my experience. I usually have an electric pump, so mounting the filter on a non-vibrating location, and letting the rubber line sections absorb the vibrations has been very successful. NEVER any issues. Benefit outweighs the negatives, at least for me. It’s all about monitoring your equipment, and acting accordingly. Neglect=issues.
In regards to the plastic filters, as a fireman, I have seen them burn a few cars down (and one brand new zero turn mower), I use the metal ones. If I suspect a water or fuel supply issue, I'll just pull it off and get a sample. Plastic not worth the risk to me.
I used to run the in-line clear plastic ones on a straight six with a mechanical fuel pump on the draw side not on the pump side. I reckon they were pretty good
I use the glass in-line filters on my Harley’s between the carb and tank between the cylinders no issue.
I always liked them big ass orange & chrome Fram canister fuel filters hanging out under the ass end of the car. Still have a few.
I've always used and liked the glass filters. I have a couple of them somewhere.
I always use glass filters they are great never had a problem
I’ve had ONE of those exact same glass filters crack in almost 50 years as a mechanic. One. Meanwhile I’ve seen dozens of steel, plastic and various cartridge design filters crack, split and fail. I’ll stick with a pyrex glass filter. You can service the filter element and replace the o-rings before the rubber degrades.
Years ago ,my first car , a 72 Demon had rust in the tank, and it would somehow get past the fuel filter and get between the needle and seat causing it to flood out. I tried several different types of filters and it got through all of them. The only thing that solved the problem was dropping the gas tank ,dumping it and flushing it out.
in line hvac filters have worked well for me for many years.
After one year with glass filter. Best thing about the glass was I could see the o-rings starting to melt from the ethanol in fuel here in Canada. Been using Earls aluminum filter with brass element ever since. Why risk the chance of fire to see the fuel in the filter? Not worth burning up my mopar.
I loved the glass filter on my 50 Olds. 30 seconds to unclip, dump and clip back in.
Its worth noting that the filter bowl was pretty much thick pyrex, instead of just glass.
I’ve been using the glass type filter since 84. I’m a carb guy, and have always used mechanical pumps. I’m still running my engine that I rebuilt in 85. I’ve freshened it up a couple of times since then, but in the summer it runs about 230 degrees. I’ve been fortunate enough not to have vapor lock problems. I’ve always had a 1” phenolic spacer under my carb, and I’ve been using a RPM Air Gap intake for about 20 years now. I still like the glas type filter. The only problem I ever had with one was when I tried to tighten it down too much, and stripped the threads. That was probably 15 years ago. I bought another glass filter, and still haven’t had a problem with it since
I was running a strait 6 on my boat . I installed the glass filter and after a run to Buffalo on way back motor died? Filter was full of sand? Removed sand started right up.
I used a glass fuell filter on my 4x4. Never worried about it leaking or breaking. Before I replaced my fuel tank, that little thing saved my comute. It'd fill up with sand half way to work exery day. Id just pull over, swap in a new filter and be on my way. When I got home, id take same carb cleaner and clean the days used filters to get them ready for the next day.
Boy was I glad when my new gas tank arrived and i was able to solve my dirty fuel issues once and for all. The old tank had holes rusted in it, allowing sand to fall in from the top. Im sure some of my gas would splash out as well.
If you are using a glass filter, just make sure to take a look at the gasket every once in a while to make sure its not cracking and you'll be fine. I have seen some where the rubber was all dried out and it was leaking through the gasket.
Thanks for the video and dispelling any rumors. As for vapor lock, we used to put wooden clothes pins clipped to the fuel lines and though not perfect, it did help dissipate heat before the gas got to the carb. 😊
My dad's truck cought on fire 3 days after I warned him about those filters.
I use A&N inline filters from EARLS on most of my hotrods now. They seem to do the job.
Thanks to your 8 dollar cure video, I ran a return line from my carburetor and used a tee to connect it to the tank and used a 1980 Cordoba fuel filter to connect to carb. No more hard starting problems in the heat for my '68 Fury VIP (318, 2 barrel) Thanks!
The glass filter I run mine between the frame and pump on my '71 340 Duster plus the original one. I do that so if it does break or leak, it will just run out of gas and die.
BEWARE of the glass filters that have PLASTIC ADAPTERS for different fuel line sizes as they can crack-. Dumping fuel on the engine if it's near the carb. Unfortunately this happened to me a few years ago and it ignited due to a bad hot wire that was jumping to ground and caused an instant fire under the hood! We got it out fast, and found the problems, fortunately not too much damage.
Been watching your posts over the last few days and I can't say enough about how though your videos are. I've got a 58 chevy with vapor lock issues that have been driving me crazy! Thanks for proventing a potential heart attack 😊
I used to do a lot of tricks with fuel filter on Old carbureted vehicles someone use for pressure relief show my use between the gas tank and fuel pump between the fuel pump and carburetor combination of both sometimes when the fuel pumps. Not brand-new.
Canister cartridge inline filter on an 80's vintage motorhome. Got bad gas and found myself stuck thinking I had to replace the filter. TH-cam informed me I was wrong.
Go under vehicle with Solo cup, unscrew cartridge and pour gas into cup and water onto the ground, take filter element off, bang it on the ground, blow through it and put it back on, pour gas back into canister and replace fingers tight only as it has a rubber seal. Start engine and drive away.
Filter medium is near indestructible and separates water.
Now I know. I used to replace them. No one ever told me because they were making a sale.
Thankfully someone finally gets that's glass filters aren't bad. So many people get it wrong.
I had an issue 2 years ago on my 361 Chrysler in my grain truck where I could get out on the road drive about a half mile and it would die. Turned out the new inline fuel filter I got at advance would not flow enough fuel to keep up with engine demand since that engine runs wide open all the time in that big heavy truck. I never would have thought it because it looked the same as the one I took off and you could blow thru it easy.
Excellent review!! My 1974 Unimog with a Mercedes M180 has the cintered bronze filter, had never seen one before…now I know!
I use the Pyrex glass see thru filter on my vintage vehicle
I love it because I can see dirt specs when the filter gets dirty
The filter is easy to remove and take apart and wash under warm water, I Let it dry and put it back in the vehicle ,they last forever just inspect the o rings make sure that they’re not brittle
My filter is been going for years about 10 years and I’m a Sunday driver no problems I will keep using it.
It’s a good idea to inspect the filter when the vehicle is running before you take it out for a drive to make sure that there are no leaks at the fuel filter
I’ve never had any problems but inspections on this filter are needed to make sure that there are no leaks.
I do not see an issue as long as they're properly installed. I've seen glass float bowls before, had one on an old truck which was quite handy for seeing if you had fuel or not :)
I was a firefighter (retired) for a large fire dept and went on MANY vehicle fires. I never saw one of the glass fuel filters be the cause. All of the old cars had glass fuel filters, many right on the fuel pump
Thanks for the review
EVERYONE needs a uncle tony.....
Back in the day my grandfather put a glass bowl fuel filter right before the carburetor on my great aunt's '51 Chevy to prevent vapor lock.
The best fuel filter I have seen is a Malpassi Filter King. They were fitted as standard on my 1st 3 cars - 1960s - 70s Alfa Romeos.
They had a glass bowel which separated any water, a replaceable paper element and an adjustable preassure regulator in the top of the body.
They are still available more than 50 years later.
My goodness you just reminded me of my old 1974 Alfa gtv 2000 I used to own it had the Malpassi system and worked great. Sure miss the car. Was looking at installing something on my Buick Wildcat and might just retrofit this on the firewall
Those little mr. gasket glass filters are a fire hazard . 🔥
Good video. I’m currently going through the “choose the right filter” process on my project truck. In doing so I’m getting educated on AN fittings and higher end fuel systems. However, I plan to stick with steel brake/tube line with flare fittings and metal inline filter. It would be really helpful if you could make video about AN fittings, adapters, and fuel lines, both rigid and flexible options. A lot of parts sellers don’t include much spec info on their fittings so it’s hard to tell what’s compatible. Thanks and keep sharing your knowledge!
I used the glass one for that pass 40 years since the 87
Years ago i had a '69 A100 van with a slant that ran sweet but had a badly decomposing fuel tank. I took it & a tow dolly to fetch a friend's Mustang near Hazard Kentucky. It took me about 13 of those plastic filters to get back home to Guntersville Alabama. (About 50 mi. per, till one would rust shut).
Some of the old Holleys had glass fuel bowls. They were great. You could pop the hood and with the engine running see the float and the fuel level.
I almost burned down my parents house with a leaky glass one.
Fuel nozzels on Home Heating oil furnaces have a sentored (spelling?) bronze filter on the end of the nozzel.
Glass filters are the way to go. Run one on my jet boat that's got a pretty crusty tank in it. I can pull the filter apart clean it out all while in the middle of a lake. And then continue my weekend fun.
👍👍👍
fuel filter basics.
great tut.
I picked up an old Carter glass (bowl) fuel filter this summer at an antique shop, complete with a permeable ceramic element...not sure what I'll put it on (a tractor maybe?) but it looks really cool! Cheers!
We watch the same people, lol.
Sounds like the fuel filter on my Dads old 56 Shepherd runabout, 354 Hemi powered!
@@66balsam I had to Google that, and oh...oh my. What a beautiful boat!!
@@rescuedandrestoredgarage not much of a surprise there, lol!
@Shop Kat Industries very true, lol
Late '90's I had a small aluminum filter. Blue anodized with a ceramic filter element. (porous sintered bronze) Looked great under the hood.
They had a problem with the O ring... (officially) It didn't squish, it looped out... and eventually filled the valleys on the intake with gas.
It then ignited. I had a small extinguisher, and the damage wasn't too bad. Lots of wires, and a few carb parts, and of course the air filter caught too.
I like the glass filters. The new ones are trash because some of them come with plastic nipples so it's a universal kit. You can source brass nipples or buy the size specific one that you need.
When using a carb and mechanical fuel pump, I like using the stock metal AMC V8 fuel filter that has a return line built in to prevent vapor lock.
Mount it as close to the carb inlet as possible; regulates the pressure and easy on the pump.
Might be good for clackity electric pumps too since fuel would constanly flow at an easy pressure and cool the pump.
I run a standard inline filter before the fuel pump above the bottom of the frame rail. Then I do something I have never seen or heard of anyone else doing. After the fuel pump I have a pressure regulator and then after that I have a fuel injection filter. Now there is never any little flakes of rust in the bottom of the bowls as usual after a long time with an old car. Fuel injection filters are high flow and very fine. All they let through is gas. I just rebuilt my carb and there was not one flake in the bottom of the bowl. Keep garbage from the fuel pump valves and from the needle and seat, then the carb just flows gas only.
Great info. What about fuel water separators? I plan on using one because of the ethanol fuel in my area.
I have put on fuel filters on about 5 cars and they were the plastic ones made by WIX 1st was on my 1967 GTO in 1971
The screw together fuel filters with a glass worked great for the most part, biggest problem I ever had was them coming unscrewed at either end. That was more dangerous than the glass ever breaking.
I run a glass filter between the tank and the motor on my boat. It's never once given me an issue. I love that thing because I can see if there's any trash in the fuel tank, and I can make sure I have 2 stroke oil in the tank as the fuel turns blue when it has oil added to it
When I got my Ramcharger it had a Edlebrock set up on her it ran great till one day it vapor locked I took off the filter which has that extra spigot, put it back on. I continued to have the problem ,one day I put on a regular in and out filter with no vapor return and no more vapor lock!
That same color plastic filter is OEM on imports into 1960's and before.
I like the metal filters but not all created for the low 4/6 PSI carb. Isuzu used these with Flat Corbin clamps on TBI in 1991 and 32-34 EFI multiport in 1993 but had 70 micro media and magnet in side. These and plastic ones work on P/S return hoses as well as orifice tubes at the inlet.
The glass filters are fine but leak. Nobody wants to toque them and specs are not included!
Metal ones with 3 tubes in todays "LS" engine craziness I would expect to have the guts of a regular inside. A spring, diaphragm, viton needle & seat with a set pressure used for return.
But the screw-in type with line wrenches and others alway bothered me during removal as fu l runs down the arms into the pits. Skin can be sensitive but you smell like gas as day. I would guess that a quart is in those lines and comes downhill. Waste oil can & trans fluid pan can work but I have tied shop rags to my wrists to stop it. There with no pressure and fuel tank cap on hold a lot. There deserve a shut off ball valve front & rear but but this adds $20 extra if you can find them. Perfect! As automotive tech we have more science, math and other disciplines required
of use everyday than a Dr. What temp does water boil at?
Well; Is water water mixed with anti-freeze or contained.
Is it under pressure, sea level or below sea level or a vacuum. The pressure cap raises the boiling point 3 1/4 degree F per pound, so 15 PSI cap causes it to boil at 260 degrees F. That is why grandma's pressure cooker was so fast. Place in a vacuum and has less pressure to hold the hydrocarbons chains together, so a 3 minute egg boils faster at Pikes Peak or 14,000 feet. Between the gas tank and pump at the engine, rubber is better than steel maybe because of insulation, but at 10PM in Vegas at 100 degrees F, the fuel can boil in a vacuum. This is not a good fuel supply. Many variables play with the exact number, but this is vapor lock. Electric pressure pumps where placed in tanks for years on the first EFI engine, to supply a frame mounted pump in rubber to produce the pressure needed for proper fuel delivery and vapor lock happens for this reason!
Thanks, UTG again.
DK. Omaha.
On Race Week , Got some bad gas in Oklahoma… disassembled my glass fuel filter, Little bit of carb cleaner and a toothbrush! Back on the road! (had to get a new toothbrush)😂
I just took one of the glass mr gasket filters off my buddies car about a week ago 408 Ford stroker. Totally clogged up they get full really quick. I put one of those plastic wix 33003 on it. I like those for my carb stuff they flow well and seem to catch all the crud. Nice to be able to see it.
Knowledge is power!
Uncle Tony l have been using the glass barrel type filters on my outboard powered drag boats for many years
as a prefilter right out of the tank as they are only 20 micron rated. I use an aluminum billet filter from Summit rated at 5 micron after the glass filter and before the electric fuel pump so they are NOT pressurized.
Never a problem and these boats move around a LOT! LOL
I forgot which store it was but I bought a stone style filter (was about half the size) and it screwed together, it’s cleanable like that one but it’s made for fuel, works great
I have fitted a marine spin on fuel/water separator filter to two carbureted automotive applications. If you have a clean fuel tank the filter element basically lasts forever and it's easily serviceable with a new spin on filter. Note I used the filter setup without the plastic water separator/drain on the bottom of the element. It's been working great for years now.
David Vizard is modifying every functional part of mission impossible. He uploaded a truly impressive carburetor video today. Really one of the best videos I've seen. That NOS filter is interesting. I didn't know about those or the big daddy oil filter style fuel filters. Thanks for another good video.
those rochester internal filters remind me of my first skateboard wheels thank uncle tony great video