@@TheModelBoatGuy They all lead to inside cabins and they had no corresponding windows on A Deck, so the lights being off wouldn't really cause any continuity problems with the rest of the cabins.
Hi Rob, You have pre-empted my very thoughts on the light shrouds! However, your idea is slightly better as the brass will eliminate any light leaks. If you intend to also add the KA light fittings, they may well cut the light direction a little more for you. Short video but you covered some interesting mods that were well worth doing. Great video as usual. Bon voyage! I will get back to you soon. Regards JH 😉
Hi John, thanks! I’m not sure there is room for the KA fittings around the shrouds, which is a little bit of a shame but really they look quite good as they are. I’ve also just realised there were lights on the railings where the comps platform stood, so no idea how to do those!
Hi Robbie. Great video as always. Just a heads up, which you can ignore if you've already spotted it. On the blank aft facing section of the Port side First Class Entrance; the section that you cut two windows in, with the addition of a deck light and door; there is a kit part numbered B9 which contains those details. I think it was a separate part due to moulding restrictions. In place, the part brings the bulkhead out to the correct level; currently the overhang is too big. It does lead to double thickness of plastic so you needed to open the windows out in any event. I just checked the instructions against my part which I had already done. Sorry that's so long winded but I just wanted to be sure you knew about it. Happy modelling. I need to fill in and re-cut that window on the Port side of the Officer's Quarters. I had missed that so many thanks.
Hi Mark, Thanks for spotting this, I would have missed it otherwise. I’ve got into a bad habit of not looking at the trumpeter kit at all, so I tend to miss these things!
I can tell you are making fast progress cause your videos pop up more frequently now 🙂 I can't wait till I see the final product of this model. If you finish it you realy have to make a long video where you film every detail and go over the entire model. 🙂. Keep up the beautiful work! You realy are a clever guy bro, it shows with your model and the various tactics you are using. A joy to watch. Grtz man! 🤟
I’m not sure, I think a lot of the ‘spilled’ light comes from it shining through the plastic. I need to add some foil to the roof and then see how we are doing. I certainly need to refine the work a touch
Ha well I am getting a bit more time at the moment so the model comes on quickly, however I suspect I will slow down again as work and things get busy. Thank you for your comment, I will certainly do a summary video at the end!
Hi there, as Atzels workshop says the funnels on the real ship were not lit. It’s a shame because I think they look much better with a light on them, but I don’t want to deviate from the real ship! I will be doing the funnels soon though 🙂
hello and congratulations, sorry but I write with google translate. I wanted to ask how do you connect the various LEDs? do you do them in groups? ( type of 4 - 6 - 8 pcs ). I use a PCB012 distribution board self-Adapt distributor to connect the various leds. But I wanted to understand how you connect all the LEDs, if you still use the resistors. I also wanted to ask you if you have a PDF file where there is a diagram of how you connect all the LEDs or if you know how to link me a video if you have done it
Good evening, sorry for bothering you. I too am building the titanic in 1:200 scale. I wanted to ask you a few things: 1) how do you insulate the brass rod from the soldering of the smd 402 leds? does the brass not make contact with the led and does it burn? 2) what do you use or how do you cut and make the rod half moon. ( sorry but I write with google translate )
Hi there, Because I’m actually soldering the thin wire on the small LEDs the brass tube dosent get hot at all when soldering. I’m also not holding the soldering iron there for a long time. To side of the LED which produces the light dosent have any electrical connection either, so there’s no danger of shorting that against the brass. For cutting the brass tube I just use a very sharp knife blade (scalpel sharp). It’s so sharp and the brass is so thin that you don’t have to apply much pressure. Hope this helps! Robbie
The ship’s coming along nicely and getting the lights to be as accurate as possible will make for a truly stunning recreation. Note to the wise though, perhaps try to not film parts using your crotch as the backdrop?
Hi Rob ! What kind of resistance did you use for the SMD micro leds ? How much resistance for how much led ? Thanks for your great job, very usefull for so much people ! Thanks, JY From France
Hi there, I use a 330ohm resistor on each string of LEDs. I have a video specifically on lighting which explains it better than I can over comments! Thanks for your comment, Robbie
Hi, I love your videos. I watch them while building my own 1/200 scale model of titanic. I do have to questions tho, First I would like to add like the Dining saloon and Private promenade deck like what you have but do I need a special type of printer or can I just use the printer that I have? Finally I want to add the 3d printed grand staircase to my model, do you know how I can get that?
For the printing, i just used a standard printer, then sprayed the paper with a Matt varnish to give it an element of waterproofing. The 3D printed staircase was bought from a Facebook group called Amature 3D printing 🙂
I have seen with other lighted models --the Polar Lights 1:350th-scale kit of the United Starship Enterprise serves as an apt case in point--evidence to bear out your cautionary alert that LEDs are too strong. To my surprise and deep embarrassment, for I would not have noticed this till after the fact.
Hi! I ask on different places about the suze of these lights. Nobody knows or nobody wants to say... I don't know. You are my last hope. They look almost the same size as skid lights, but I'm not sure. I need to know the real size, becouse I wanna use fiber optics. Thank you in advance! 🙂
Hello, from memory these lights were around 20cm in diameter (but that’s not a certainly) that’s just me going from my memory. So they are smaller than the skids. I drilled quite small holes for my LEDs here, less than 1mm for sure.
Looking great! I can’t wait to see it finished!
Fine attention to detail as always, will have to check out that Modellers guidebook, cheers for the heads up 👌
Thank you Martin! It’s a great book, really good source for obscure bits of the ship
As always, a cracking good video. Thanks…!
Are you going to add the skidlights on the Officer's Quarters? They weren't included in the Trumpeter kit.
Yes I will be, I might not light them though, I think they were skylights for the cabins below so I don’t want light pouring out of them.
@@TheModelBoatGuy They all lead to inside cabins and they had no corresponding windows on A Deck, so the lights being off wouldn't really cause any continuity problems with the rest of the cabins.
Great idea for the lights ROb cant wait to see the finished section. Many thanks.
Good work 😃👍
Hi Rob, You have pre-empted my very thoughts on the light shrouds! However, your idea is slightly better as the brass will eliminate any light leaks. If you intend to also add the KA light fittings, they may well cut the light direction a little more for you. Short video but you covered some interesting mods that were well worth doing. Great video as usual. Bon voyage! I will get back to you soon. Regards JH 😉
Hi John, thanks!
I’m not sure there is room for the KA fittings around the shrouds, which is a little bit of a shame but really they look quite good as they are.
I’ve also just realised there were lights on the railings where the comps platform stood, so no idea how to do those!
This i what i need .. Grate work 👏well done and good luck 👍
Hi Robbie. Great video as always. Just a heads up, which you can ignore if you've already spotted it. On the blank aft facing section of the Port side First Class Entrance; the section that you cut two windows in, with the addition of a deck light and door; there is a kit part numbered B9 which contains those details. I think it was a separate part due to moulding restrictions. In place, the part brings the bulkhead out to the correct level; currently the overhang is too big. It does lead to double thickness of plastic so you needed to open the windows out in any event. I just checked the instructions against my part which I had already done. Sorry that's so long winded but I just wanted to be sure you knew about it. Happy modelling. I need to fill in and re-cut that window on the Port side of the Officer's Quarters. I had missed that so many thanks.
Hi Mark,
Thanks for spotting this, I would have missed it otherwise. I’ve got into a bad habit of not looking at the trumpeter kit at all, so I tend to miss these things!
I can tell you are making fast progress cause your videos pop up more frequently now 🙂 I can't wait till I see the final product of this model. If you finish it you realy have to make a long video where you film every detail and go over the entire model. 🙂. Keep up the beautiful work! You realy are a clever guy bro, it shows with your model and the various tactics you are using. A joy to watch. Grtz man! 🤟
Would angling the led slightly with a small plastic piece help direct the lights angle ?
I’m not sure, I think a lot of the ‘spilled’ light comes from it shining through the plastic. I need to add some foil to the roof and then see how we are doing. I certainly need to refine the work a touch
Ha well I am getting a bit more time at the moment so the model comes on quickly, however I suspect I will slow down again as work and things get busy.
Thank you for your comment, I will certainly do a summary video at the end!
Add the floodlights on the funnels next
Hi there, as Atzels workshop says the funnels on the real ship were not lit. It’s a shame because I think they look much better with a light on them, but I don’t want to deviate from the real ship!
I will be doing the funnels soon though 🙂
hello and congratulations, sorry but I write with google translate. I wanted to ask how do you connect the various LEDs? do you do them in groups? ( type of 4 - 6 - 8 pcs ). I use a PCB012 distribution board self-Adapt distributor to connect the various leds. But I wanted to understand how you connect all the LEDs, if you still use the resistors. I also wanted to ask you if you have a PDF file where there is a diagram of how you connect all the LEDs or if you know how to link me a video if you have done it
Good evening, sorry for bothering you. I too am building the titanic in 1:200 scale. I wanted to ask you a few things: 1) how do you insulate the brass rod from the soldering of the smd 402 leds? does the brass not make contact with the led and does it burn? 2) what do you use or how do you cut and make the rod half moon. ( sorry but I write with google translate )
Hi there,
Because I’m actually soldering the thin wire on the small LEDs the brass tube dosent get hot at all when soldering. I’m also not holding the soldering iron there for a long time.
To side of the LED which produces the light dosent have any electrical connection either, so there’s no danger of shorting that against the brass.
For cutting the brass tube I just use a very sharp knife blade (scalpel sharp). It’s so sharp and the brass is so thin that you don’t have to apply much pressure.
Hope this helps!
Robbie
The ship’s coming along nicely and getting the lights to be as accurate as possible will make for a truly stunning recreation. Note to the wise though, perhaps try to not film parts using your crotch as the backdrop?
😂😂😂😂 I just noticed that. Oh dear, yes it’s a fair point you make. These are the lessons you learn
Hi Rob ! What kind of resistance did you use for the SMD micro leds ? How much resistance for how much led ?
Thanks for your great job, very usefull for so much people ! Thanks, JY From France
Hi there, I use a 330ohm resistor on each string of LEDs. I have a video specifically on lighting which explains it better than I can over comments!
Thanks for your comment,
Robbie
@@TheModelBoatGuy Thanks Robbie ! Have a nice day
Hi, I love your videos. I watch them while building my own 1/200 scale model of titanic. I do have to questions tho, First I would like to add like the Dining saloon and Private promenade deck like what you have but do I need a special type of printer or can I just use the printer that I have? Finally I want to add the 3d printed grand staircase to my model, do you know how I can get that?
For the printing, i just used a standard printer, then sprayed the paper with a Matt varnish to give it an element of waterproofing.
The 3D printed staircase was bought from a Facebook group called Amature 3D printing 🙂
I have seen with other lighted models --the Polar Lights 1:350th-scale kit of the United Starship Enterprise serves as an apt case in point--evidence to bear out your cautionary alert that LEDs are too strong. To my surprise and deep embarrassment, for I would not have noticed this till after the fact.
LEDs are weird things on models, they never quite look realistic.
I am going to do a video on it soon, not that there are many solutions!
@@TheModelBoatGuy , use filters to alter the output (col- our, brightness, etc.).
Hi! I ask on different places about the suze of these lights. Nobody knows or nobody wants to say... I don't know. You are my last hope. They look almost the same size as skid lights, but I'm not sure. I need to know the real size, becouse I wanna use fiber optics. Thank you in advance! 🙂
Hello, from memory these lights were around 20cm in diameter (but that’s not a certainly) that’s just me going from my memory.
So they are smaller than the skids. I drilled quite small holes for my LEDs here, less than 1mm for sure.
@@TheModelBoatGuy thank you!
For The Algorithm.