It looks like it would be close to fitting. A guy could completely gut the sending unit and just have the pumps sit in the bucket. Either that or do external dual pumps
You would have to run a relay forsure. I’m sure you could probably run two separate relays and run the same trigger wire to both. Or run a bigger single relay? Someone’s gotta have a write up on duals.
Aem 50-1220 would have been bolt on.no harware or wiring cut needed. Its compact.flows 340 LPH. And even compatible with modern fuels like ethanol Dw 65c is also bolton for our cars.part number DW 9-651-1008 Also our fuel pump assenly comoresses when we install it in tank.so the line kinks. Here is what i did.you can make a nice loop and dont worry about kinking it.its on post#102 www.crzforum.com/threads/abduls-k24-or-k20-swap-build-guide-with-complete-wiring-diagrams.91819/page-6
I saw the direct fit pump. But wanted to go with a bigger pump. I could have used a flex hose like the oem one and gotten away with collapsing it but decided to just run a shorter line.
Hey man nice build! Btw I just installed Walbro 255 in my gen 7 2.4L accord but it’ takes longer to start. Do you have any idea on what going on? Thank you
Thank you! Yes I had that issue as well what I did each time was turn the key to ignition let the pump prime until it sounds like it’s under load. Usually a couple seconds and then start it. Sometimes even primed it twice and it would fire up no problem. What happens is the fuel pressure in the rail drops after sitting for a while.
@@RuskiRedneck thank you so much for your reply. The reason I installed the 255 is because of lean mixture at high rpm with stock pump and 310cc injector at my previous tune. I bought 440cc injector and decided to upgrade my pump, might as well good for future upgrade, I will retune my car next week and I hope that 255 won’t give me any problem.
@@RuskiRedneck oh btw, I’m quite surprised stock pump and 310cc injector won’t be able to provide enough fuel at 6800- 7000 rpm - only 240hp on crank! (all motor) just sharing
@@RuskiRedneck my mods are ported PRC IM, 70mm TB, Short air intake, sets of FD2R camshaft, 4-2-1 header, k20 oil pump and some Toda pulleys. Will retuned next week hopefully I could squeeze more juice out of my K24A3. Thanks again man
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Going to keep them coming as parts are coming in
where did you get the harness pins? I am needing 4 (2 for fuel pump to top connector and connector to power and ground)
Local shop carried them. I’ll try to find an Amazon link for you.
@@RuskiRedneck Thanks! I've been doing some searching coming up with nothing so far
The TSX at the end.. Where did you find a black same side intercooler?
I painted it.
Hey Ruski, have you seen the TI automotive dual fuel pump set up? Would that fit in the factory fuel pump housing?
It looks like it would be close to fitting. A guy could completely gut the sending unit and just have the pumps sit in the bucket. Either that or do external dual pumps
@@RuskiRedneck 900lph 👀 I want to run that dual fuel pump set up. Any idea how both fuel pumps would be hooked up for power?
You would have to run a relay forsure. I’m sure you could probably run two separate relays and run the same trigger wire to both. Or run a bigger single relay? Someone’s gotta have a write up on duals.
Have a link for this walbro ?
Type in 450 Walbro there’s a bunch of options to pick from. Just buy from a reputable site. They are all the same for the most part.
Aem 50-1220 would have been bolt on.no harware or wiring cut needed.
Its compact.flows 340 LPH. And even compatible with modern fuels like ethanol
Dw 65c is also bolton for our cars.part number
DW 9-651-1008
Also our fuel pump assenly comoresses when we install it in tank.so the line kinks.
Here is what i did.you can make a nice loop and dont worry about kinking it.its on post#102
www.crzforum.com/threads/abduls-k24-or-k20-swap-build-guide-with-complete-wiring-diagrams.91819/page-6
I saw the direct fit pump. But wanted to go with a bigger pump. I could have used a flex hose like the oem one and gotten away with collapsing it but decided to just run a shorter line.
Hey man nice build! Btw I just installed Walbro 255 in my gen 7 2.4L accord but it’ takes longer to start. Do you have any idea on what going on? Thank you
Thank you! Yes I had that issue as well what I did each time was turn the key to ignition let the pump prime until it sounds like it’s under load. Usually a couple seconds and then start it. Sometimes even primed it twice and it would fire up no problem. What happens is the fuel pressure in the rail drops after sitting for a while.
@@RuskiRedneck thank you so much for your reply. The reason I installed the 255 is because of lean mixture at high rpm with stock pump and 310cc injector at my previous tune. I bought 440cc injector and decided to upgrade my pump, might as well good for future upgrade, I will retune my car next week and I hope that 255 won’t give me any problem.
@@RuskiRedneck oh btw, I’m quite surprised stock pump and 310cc injector won’t be able to provide enough fuel at 6800- 7000 rpm - only 240hp on crank! (all motor) just sharing
Interesting. Good thing you got your car tuned and actually caught it. A lot of people throw on bolt ons and don’t tune.
@@RuskiRedneck my mods are ported PRC IM, 70mm TB, Short air intake, sets of FD2R camshaft, 4-2-1 header, k20 oil pump and some Toda pulleys. Will retuned next week hopefully I could squeeze more juice out of my K24A3. Thanks again man
Are you running a fuel pressure regulator?
Yes.
Are you running a ff sensor?
FF sensor?
@@RuskiRedneck Flexfuel sensor.
@@ryattinc Yes I am
@@ryattincwhat does that do ?
@@josecunsako31 detects ethanol in Our fuel supply and adjusts the mapping to compensate for the ratio.