Anyone watching this please know that the ball does NOT just get dropped down the hole! It has a spot it sits. Best way to get it in its spot is to remove the IPR valve (the thing the wire harness plugs into) and you will see where it lives. That is why the ferry plug has the rod is to hold the ball in its spot. It is not a gamble or 50/50 shot with the new ball. If you drop it down the hole your pump will not work, plain and simple!
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892do you know where could I have a trainning course for Repair this kind of HPOP ? I mean complete Repair work, remanufacture, and all for that work ? Thanks in advance ! Ramon
Absolutely awesome! Very Clear, very great camera angles, and man did this save my butt! I was being told I had to buy a whole new oil pump because it was leaking... Being that I'm DIY kind of guy I hit to youtube and struck this video! and the many others you have! Thank you! Please continue these!
I thank you very much for the comment! I must say that the Rebuild seal kit can be a gamble. I have placed some of these kits on the pumps and still had to purchase a pump. But I feel no more than the kit cost. It's worth a gamble.
Dairle, your videos are so well done. Thank you for the hard work and patient delivery! About to run through this on my 1999 4700LP, using the Dorman/Dayton Parts kit (285-5102) that Carquest carries under the part number you shared (appears the same, but with pre-applied threadlocker). Question on the 10mm mount bolts you mentioned are sometimes stripped. Is 20 ft-lbs the correct torque when installing? It's what I could find searching the internet, and did not see it here or on your full pump replacement video. I don't want to strip those mounting bolts. Thanks!
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 turned out the middle/bottom bolt was already stripped. The top was really tight (had to blip with air ratchet) and the middle seemed loose (top might have also been about 5mm longer, wondering if they tried overtightening as a fix). When I went to reassemble, that middle bolt would not tighten. I ended up using a Heli-Coil Metric Thread Repair Kit (5546-8) for the M8-1.25 threads (you'll need a 21/64 bit, and grab a stubby one if you can - I drilled mine about 19mm deep). Practiced on an aluminum accumulator I found in the shop scrap bin at work (strangely, the exact same M8-1.25 threads, so it was spot on for practice). Daniel Soliz has a great Heli-Coil install video on TH-cam. Another solution, or if you mess up the Heli-Coil, might be the EZ-LOK HPOP Bolt Insert Kit from Riffraff Diesel (Part Number: 0123149 - includes drill bit, but needs a 1/2" chuck). Made for the 7.3L PowerStroke, which Navistar designed with the same weakness. I was not able to verify the application with Riffraff though (uncertain if the 7.3L HPOP mounting bolts are also M8-1.25 - from the little research I did, they seemed to be), and these inserts are wider than Heli-Coil, so that might be getting close to the gasket seal trough. Like other users, I found that removing the IPR made getting the ball out and back in the right spot so much easier. Thank you for the excellent video on a complete HPOP swap for the IPR removal. Thanks, again, Dairle! One last question. When priming the fuel & HPOP, do you pull the ignition timing on the front of the engine or the easier plug on top? Is it even necessary if your truck has a start button beside the key (which you would leave set to Off anyway).
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 thanks again! I had done 18ft lbs, and you saying 15-20ft lbs makes me feel comfortable I am set. Drilling that heli-coil, in the engine compartment, was nerve wracking :D When priming Internationals that have a start button, do we need to pull the timing sensor harness connection, or just leave the key set to Off and crank it?
@ChrisRomer_CRomer I maybe reading your question wrong. When you are priming . You want to make sure the Fuel Filter is completely full of fuel. After it's full, turn on your ignition key and push your starter button. Once the vehicle start up. I would apply a little pressure to the gas pedal to rise the rpm 1,700 about 10-15 seconds. That's in case you have any air in the system. After that ,you should be fine. Now ,if you are installing a High Pressure Pump. The vehicle most likely will not start up right away. You may have to turn it over a few times.
I followed the instructions in your video to a T, but upon reassembly I was not getting high pressure oil. I took everything back apart and the ferry ball is missing? I took it apart on my bench with rags down, so I'm sure I didn't lose it. When I put the ferry ball in it didn't look like it could go anywhere? It seems to seat itself near the construction port plug in the bottom of the ferry ball port. Part Number 1833830C1. It's a remanufactured HPOP, '00 DT530 (but still a '99 style motor).
Sir,I have watched your video to fix this exact problem,when I got done and tried to start the truck I had no hi pressure,I found the ball stuck in the outlet of the hi pressure fitting,I watched your video several times an it seems you just dropped the ball in then the metal piece and then the oil ferry plug,so figured maybe the ball fell into the outlet chamber when I turned it over to install the pump,so I redid it put put pump in without turning it over and tried it again now I'm only getting 120 psi of hi pressure,did I mess the pump up by plugging the outlet,the truck ran fine before only had a leak at the construction plug you seem very knowledgeable in what you do thank you
I am sorry to hear about this. I will say that the Check Ball can be a plain! If it isn't setting just right. It will off set the whole pump. They are a gamble.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 is there a certain position the ball should be in? should I use something to shove it into position?,I'm not sure I could get it back apart,that locktite they send is some serious stuff I didn't think I was going to get it apart after a few hours let alone over the weekend.thank you for your time,you could be a very good instructor,if you aren't already your videos are top notch,with your information I had the part numbers and and confidence that I could fix this leak,it doesn't leak,or run for that matter🤷thank you for replying
I just went through a couple days of hell over that ball. This video is incorrect for call placement. I finally figured out that it needs to sit in a spot only about a 1/2” inside the opening. There is no way this pump worked with the way the ball was just dropped in there. It sits exactly opposite the IPR valve. The ferry plug,(plug with the rod attached is what holds it in its seat. There is a little spot for it. Do not drop it down the hole!
Thank you so much with this clip....but ive a question regarding to the video you done on throwing ball check inside i do the same but end up blocking oil on injector pipe.on crank no start till i found out that ball was closing
Your video is awesome and you are very detailed but you need to add more info about the ball you replaced. I did just what you did when installing the Ball and ended up with a no start no high pressure oil. I found the ball stuck in the oil outlet fitting. After further investigation I found that the ball sits in a seat between a return passage and the side of the square shaft. The easiest way is to remove the IPR and with the square shaft out drop the ball into the seat below the tip of the IPR. Then insert the square shaft and Ferry plug. Then reinstall the IPR. This way you know the Ball is where it belongs. Thanks for the great Video.
Would a leaky seal cause truck to not start after sitting overnight? After a Squirt of starting fluid it starts and runs normally. Leaking at seal between engine block and pump. When hot doesn’t leak and starts fine. Would you recommend new pump or just new seals? Thank You sir, appreciate it!
@user-oe7ob5jk2u Good question, I place a seal kit on this on because it was leaking. With the high cost of a New Pump. You want to make sure you really need one.As for me ,if a pump is bad. You are better off replacing with a new one. There are several other items that can cause low psi to Injectors. Or it could be one bad Injector itself. Have a diagnostic test done to save some time and unnecessary money spent.
Thanks for the video. I installed the same kit (minus a check ball). My engine started and ran for 30 seconds. And now it wont start after that. Any suggestions? Thanks
Most of the time if the kit do not work. The Engine would never start. But your Engine ran for 30mins. I will say that this kit can be tricky. I would recheck the Check Ball and make sure it is installed properly. There is a 50/50 chance that a kit will or will not fit the Pump. I sometime have been forced to purchase a New Pump.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 Ahh I see. I appreciate the help. Ill take the pump off and check the ball. I might have shifted it around in there trying to get it out. (it never popped out). Ill see if i can get it and put it back in properly. Thanks again.
I took it apart again and it looks like the ball its broken in the opening. Is that something that could happen. If thats the case, it looks like ill need a new pump. @@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892
@DanZalinsky Yes Sir, that can easily happen. Before you purchase a Pump. You can purchase a New Ball and try your luck. I think the part number is on the Video.
My truck goes uphill and ramp very slow, do I need to replace it or try the seal first. And I also have a leak that affects the tranny fuel and engine oil. Idk if these 2 issues are related.
I have found the Seal Kit to be more useful in stopping a leak at the Pump. If your pump is causing low power. Chances are you are better off with a New Pump. I would have a diagnostic done first before purchasing one.
If I am not mistaken. The only kit that you will find is in this video. If you have any housing or internal wear and damage. You will have to purchase a brand new pump. Keep in mind these pumps are very sensitive. Any little internal damage will keep your vehicle from running.
Anyone watching this please know that the ball does NOT just get dropped down the hole! It has a spot it sits. Best way to get it in its spot is to remove the IPR valve (the thing the wire harness plugs into) and you will see where it lives. That is why the ferry plug has the rod is to hold the ball in its spot. It is not a gamble or 50/50 shot with the new ball. If you drop it down the hole your pump will not work, plain and simple!
Thanks for the heads-up
You have the patience of a fine teacher. I'll be almost an expert at the dt466e from watching your videos. Thank you for helping me.
That gives me the motivation to make more videos thank you sir!
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892do you know where could I have a trainning course for Repair this kind of HPOP ? I mean complete Repair work, remanufacture, and all for that work ? Thanks in advance ! Ramon
@tdnramon8708 that is a good question. Maybe you can check with the local Tech Colleges. Now days many people have leaned right off of TH-cam.
Absolutely awesome! Very Clear, very great camera angles, and man did this save my butt! I was being told I had to buy a whole new oil pump because it was leaking...
Being that I'm DIY kind of guy I hit to youtube and struck this video! and the many others you have! Thank you! Please continue these!
I thank you very much for the comment! I must say that the Rebuild seal kit can be a gamble. I have placed some of these kits on the pumps and still had to purchase a pump. But I feel no more than the kit cost. It's worth a gamble.
Wish there was a way to get in contact with this guy. I just need to drop my truck off at this point 😩
Thank you for the great video
@@blakessite Thank you
Thanks a lot it was another good video
Dairle, your videos are so well done. Thank you for the hard work and patient delivery! About to run through this on my 1999 4700LP, using the Dorman/Dayton Parts kit (285-5102) that Carquest carries under the part number you shared (appears the same, but with pre-applied threadlocker). Question on the 10mm mount bolts you mentioned are sometimes stripped. Is 20 ft-lbs the correct torque when installing? It's what I could find searching the internet, and did not see it here or on your full pump replacement video. I don't want to strip those mounting bolts. Thanks!
@ChrisRomer_CRomer I thank you very much for your comment! That is a good question. I would not go much over 20ft lbs.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 turned out the middle/bottom bolt was already stripped. The top was really tight (had to blip with air ratchet) and the middle seemed loose (top might have also been about 5mm longer, wondering if they tried overtightening as a fix). When I went to reassemble, that middle bolt would not tighten. I ended up using a Heli-Coil Metric Thread Repair Kit (5546-8) for the M8-1.25 threads (you'll need a 21/64 bit, and grab a stubby one if you can - I drilled mine about 19mm deep). Practiced on an aluminum accumulator I found in the shop scrap bin at work (strangely, the exact same M8-1.25 threads, so it was spot on for practice). Daniel Soliz has a great Heli-Coil install video on TH-cam. Another solution, or if you mess up the Heli-Coil, might be the EZ-LOK HPOP Bolt Insert Kit from Riffraff Diesel (Part Number: 0123149 - includes drill bit, but needs a 1/2" chuck). Made for the 7.3L PowerStroke, which Navistar designed with the same weakness. I was not able to verify the application with Riffraff though (uncertain if the 7.3L HPOP mounting bolts are also M8-1.25 - from the little research I did, they seemed to be), and these inserts are wider than Heli-Coil, so that might be getting close to the gasket seal trough.
Like other users, I found that removing the IPR made getting the ball out and back in the right spot so much easier. Thank you for the excellent video on a complete HPOP swap for the IPR removal.
Thanks, again, Dairle! One last question. When priming the fuel & HPOP, do you pull the ignition timing on the front of the engine or the easier plug on top? Is it even necessary if your truck has a start button beside the key (which you would leave set to Off anyway).
@ChrisRomer_CRomer I would go with 15ft lbs and not over 20ft lbs. Be careful with that little check ball. I thank you for your comments!
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 thanks again! I had done 18ft lbs, and you saying 15-20ft lbs makes me feel comfortable I am set. Drilling that heli-coil, in the engine compartment, was nerve wracking :D
When priming Internationals that have a start button, do we need to pull the timing sensor harness connection, or just leave the key set to Off and crank it?
@ChrisRomer_CRomer I maybe reading your question wrong. When you are priming . You want to make sure the Fuel Filter is completely full of fuel. After it's full, turn on your ignition key and push your starter button. Once the vehicle start up. I would apply a little pressure to the gas pedal to rise the rpm 1,700 about 10-15 seconds. That's in case you have any air in the system. After that ,you should be fine.
Now ,if you are installing a High Pressure Pump. The vehicle most likely will not start up right away. You may have to turn it over a few times.
I followed the instructions in your video to a T, but upon reassembly I was not getting high pressure oil. I took everything back apart and the ferry ball is missing? I took it apart on my bench with rags down, so I'm sure I didn't lose it. When I put the ferry ball in it didn't look like it could go anywhere? It seems to seat itself near the construction port plug in the bottom of the ferry ball port. Part Number 1833830C1. It's a remanufactured HPOP, '00 DT530 (but still a '99 style motor).
Sir,I have watched your video to fix this exact problem,when I got done and tried to start the truck I had no hi pressure,I found the ball stuck in the outlet of the hi pressure fitting,I watched your video several times an it seems you just dropped the ball in then the metal piece and then the oil ferry plug,so figured maybe the ball fell into the outlet chamber when I turned it over to install the pump,so I redid it put put pump in without turning it over and tried it again now I'm only getting 120 psi of hi pressure,did I mess the pump up by plugging the outlet,the truck ran fine before only had a leak at the construction plug you seem very knowledgeable in what you do thank you
I am sorry to hear about this. I will say that the Check Ball can be a plain! If it isn't setting just right. It will off set the whole pump. They are a gamble.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 is there a certain position the ball should be in? should I use something to shove it into position?,I'm not sure I could get it back apart,that locktite they send is some serious stuff I didn't think I was going to get it apart after a few hours let alone over the weekend.thank you for your time,you could be a very good instructor,if you aren't already your videos are top notch,with your information I had the part numbers and and confidence that I could fix this leak,it doesn't leak,or run for that matter🤷thank you for replying
I just went through a couple days of hell over that ball. This video is incorrect for call placement. I finally figured out that it needs to sit in a spot only about a 1/2” inside the opening. There is no way this pump worked with the way the ball was just dropped in there. It sits exactly opposite the IPR valve. The ferry plug,(plug with the rod attached is what holds it in its seat.
There is a little spot for it. Do not drop it down the hole!
Thank you so much with this clip....but ive a question regarding to the video you done on throwing ball check inside i do the same but end up blocking oil on injector pipe.on crank no start till i found out that ball was closing
That happens alot when doing this job. It can be a plan.
Your video is awesome and you are very detailed but you need to add more info about the ball you replaced.
I did just what you did when installing the Ball and ended up with a no start no high pressure oil. I found the ball stuck in the oil outlet fitting.
After further investigation I found that the ball sits in a seat between a return passage and the side of the square shaft.
The easiest way is to remove the IPR and with the square shaft out drop the ball into the seat below the tip of the IPR. Then insert the square shaft and Ferry plug. Then reinstall the IPR.
This way you know the Ball is where it belongs.
Thanks for the great Video.
Hey can you do a video on lower pump replacement on the vt365
I'm not sure if or when I will run across one. I will keep that in mind. Thank you
Could you at least let me know the process to where the lower oil pump is on the vt365
@user-dw2fg1ew7p I have not physically tackle that project .
Would a leaky seal cause truck to not start after sitting overnight? After a Squirt of starting fluid it starts and runs normally. Leaking at seal between engine block and pump. When hot doesn’t leak and starts fine. Would you recommend new pump or just new seals? Thank
You sir, appreciate it!
@KayTrucking-d1n Good question! A leaking Seal will not cause that problem. Do not buy a Pump. You can just replace the Seal.
how do i know if i need to replace the pump or rebuild it . 1998 dt466 no obvious oil leaks but low pressure to injectors .
@user-oe7ob5jk2u Good question, I place a seal kit on this on because it was leaking. With the high cost of a New Pump. You want to make sure you really need one.As for me ,if a pump is bad. You are better off replacing with a new one. There are several other items that can cause low psi to Injectors. Or it could be one bad Injector itself. Have a diagnostic test done to save some time and unnecessary money spent.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 will do thank you !
Thanks for the video. I installed the same kit (minus a check ball). My engine started and ran for 30 seconds. And now it wont start after that. Any suggestions? Thanks
Most of the time if the kit do not work. The Engine would never start. But your Engine ran for 30mins. I will say that this kit can be tricky. I would recheck the Check Ball and make sure it is installed properly. There is a 50/50 chance that a kit will or will not fit the Pump. I sometime have been forced to purchase a New Pump.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 Ahh I see. I appreciate the help. Ill take the pump off and check the ball. I might have shifted it around in there trying to get it out. (it never popped out). Ill see if i can get it and put it back in properly. Thanks again.
I took it apart again and it looks like the ball its broken in the opening. Is that something that could happen. If thats the case, it looks like ill need a new pump. @@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892
@DanZalinsky Yes Sir, that can easily happen. Before you purchase a Pump. You can purchase a New Ball and try your luck. I think the part number is on the Video.
Thank you! I appreciate that@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892
excuse me sir you will have some diagram of how to assemble the high pressure pump of the DT466 please
My truck goes uphill and ramp very slow, do I need to replace it or try the seal first. And I also have a leak that affects the tranny fuel and engine oil. Idk if these 2 issues are related.
I have found the Seal Kit to be more useful in stopping a leak at the Pump. If your pump is causing low power. Chances are you are better off with a New Pump. I would have a diagnostic done first before purchasing one.
How can i get the rod
I have a spare one that I want to rebuild. Entirely. Do you have a part number for the guts?
If I am not mistaken. The only kit that you will find is in this video. If you have any housing or internal wear and damage. You will have to purchase a brand new pump. Keep in mind these pumps are very sensitive. Any little internal damage will keep your vehicle from running.
@@dairleautoclassicrestorati6892 thank you.
Where is the mechanic shop located?
😊